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Comments
Some more stuff:
* Element was the best selling new import nameplate
* Durango will have some raunchy ads with size-does-matter inuendo
* Mazda6-based Ford Futura will be made in Mexico
* SSR glitches delay production ($42k price is the bigger problem)
* Saab (surprise!) and Infiniti are having record sales years due to G35/FX and 9-3
* Magnum gets 20% of parts from M-B, including stability control
* Porsche is offering finance deals on the Cayenne
That last one is scary. They sold their sport-car soul and if sales start to slip, what's left? Cadillac beat them in a C&D comparo...
-juice
-mike
-juice
Oh I let her get that meal since she wanted to... I got most of the drinks during some bar-hopping downtown Saturday night; like I said, fairly even split.
The scenery was indeed beautiful there, in more ways than one. ;-) Even if my salary was, say 40% higher there, I couldn't afford to live in remotely near the house I do now. She's probably going to be 'ok' though. hehe
-Colin
VW Touareg Spawns Euro-Van
Volkswagen has a van - that's panel, not mini - version of its recently introduced Touareg up-market 4x4. Unveiled at the Amsterdam commercial vehicle show this week, the Touareg van is aimed firmly at the Netherlands market, where vehicle taxation quirks spawn many unusual vehicles. The van on show has leather upholstery, air-conditioning and all the other options you'd expect from a top of the range machine. But behind the driver and passenger seats there is a flat load floor, raised roof, although only by an inch or so, and blacked-out windows to meet local commercial vehicle tax laws. The trick is that buyers who forego the comfort and convenience of rear-compartment seats can buy a Touareg that carries a lower tax rate. It's not so that deliveries can be maintained in Holland's often freezing winters and it certainly isn't because Dutch tradesmen require hill-climbing ability. Don't expect to see any Touareg vans making it to the USA - but then, where unusual vehicles and the American love of something different is concerned, you can never say 'never.' -Ian Norris
Bob
Neat, Bob, but that would have to come with a nose-bleed price. $40 grand for starters, probably. The Eurovan is already too expensive to compete.
-juice
-Colin
The early bird gets the worm...
Her biological clock is ticking...
I'm all out of cliches! ;-)
-juice
It's all relative. $360K wouldn't even get you into a starter home out here in the Bay Area! You probably would be lucky to find a small one-bedroom condo in a not-so-nice area at that price.
Ken
Side note - just got a flu shot and it feels like someone punched my arm!
-juice
I've never been around her more than a month or so, but we get along great. I hope! she graduated HS early, she'll be 19 in December and is a sophomore in college.
but yeah anyway-- I'll just keep in contact with Erin and see what time brings. nothing to gain by rushing things along since we're both very busy in our own lives and separated by a good distance.
-Colin
http://www.autonews.com/page.cms?pageId=356
Daihatsu D-Bone is a real [non-permissible content removed]! It looks like a mutant Aztek, at best.
Interesting, the Subaru R2 (with the B11S-like grille, and not the B9-like grille) is scheduled for production. I'm assuming it will replace the Pleo?
And the Larry Flint award goes to...
http://www.autonews.com/news.cms?newsId=6785
Bob
Subaru's response to NHTSA's Office of Defects Investigations (ODI) letter requesting data may be found at http://152.122.48.12/prepos/files/A...3029-16146P.pdf. It is dated September 29, 2003 and is 59 pages long. There's, of course, a lot of interesting information there. I've chosen to include Subaru's response to Question 11, which essentially asks Subaru to present its side of the story. Subaru says, eventually, that if you've experienced the brake pedal going to the floor or an almost-complete loss of braking power, then you've experienced a "perception" problem and not a brake problem.
quote:
------------------------------------------------------------------ - - -------
11. Furnish Subaru's assessment of the alleged defect in the subject vehicle, including:
a. The causal or contributor factor(s);
b. The failure mechanism(s);
c. The failure mode;
d. The risk to motor vehicle safety that it poses;
e. What warninigs, if any, the operator and the other persons both inside and outside the vehicle would have that the alleged defect was occurring; and
f. The reports included with this inquiry.
Response
a. There are two causes that contribute to customers' complaints as described in our Response 8 above, i.e. "ABS spare tire issue" and "ABS rough road issue".
b. The failure mechanism of the spare tire issue is the ABS ECU logic as described in Response 8 above. According to our testing and analysis, the rough road phenomenon described by customers does not involve a failure; hence there is no failure mechanism.
c. When a temporary spare tire is fitted and subsequently re-fitted with a standard size tire, it may cause momentary (maximum 1.1 sec. or less) ABS activation. This only occurs when the brakes are applied: (a) at vehicle speeds between 55-60 K/H or (b) within 10 seconds after exceeding 60 K/H and is caused by the ABS ECU logic memorizing the size of the temporary spare but not recognizing the subsequent standard size tire replacement. FHI's investigation revealed the existance of a "bug" in the ECU software as described in Response 8.
As for the rough road issue, ABS activates with less pedal pressure than on smooth surfaces as the ECU detects the difference in the wheel speeds as the tires rebound over the bumps. There is also a slight but detectable change in brake pedal position during the transition between ABS "on" and ABS "off" on the WRX, as on other vehicles. Hence, there is no failure mode.
d: With respect to the spare tire issue, FHI's tests proved that even though ABS was activated momentarily when depressing the brake pedal, there was not a significant change in braking performance (pedal force, stroke and stopping distance). Therefore, FHI considers that this does not constitute a defect that relates to motor vehicle safety. Not only did the brake performance continue to satisfy the NHTSA requirements but also the more stringent FHI performance requirements.
The results of FHI's internal tests, based on FMVSS requirements, on a flat road: (vehicle load 5 passengers, brake pedal force 500N and vehicle initial speed 100 K/H) are:
-When ABS activates, as in the spare tire case, the stopping distance is 50.2m.
-When ABS does not activate, the stopping distance is 49.1m (70m is the FMVSS required stopping distance). The performance under both conditions exceeds FMVSS requirements and the difference between the two cases is negligible.
According to FHI's parallel brake performance tests, to get the same rate of deceleration as non-ABS braking, when the ABS activated, no more than 10N (2.24 lbs.) additional brake pedal force was required. However, over much of the range, there was no pedal force difference, especially in the area of high deceleration braking. When the ABS deactivated, the brake pedal moved slightly but only to the same position as had ABS not activated [see Appendix IId].
Regarding the rough road issue, we believe that ABS activation is normal when braking during the period when wheels rebound over the bumbs during heavy braking. This was confirmed in or testing with customer and other vehicles. This was not limited to WRX vehicles. ABS is designed to recognize differences in wheel rotational speed and such differences occur during wheel rebound, activating the ABS [see Response 8 and Appendix 8(II)f4].
Various customers have described the phenomenon in differenct ways. The customers' perception that the brake pedal went to the floor is incorrect. We believe that this perception is the result of the additional movement of the brake pedal at the time of ABS deactivation. In this case, an unexpected event. As stated above, the pedal only moves to a position that it would have occupied had the ABS not activated. During this entire process, braking performance is essentially at the same level as if ABS had not activated.
Likewise, the perception of brake loss is not correct. During ABS operation, the rate of deceleration is not proportional to the brake pedal force, since braking force is controlled by the system. Additional brake pedal force does not result in an increased rate of deceleration. When ABS is operating, overall vehicle control and stability is enhanced. We believe it is a proven safety feature.
After analysis of the test data and all available relevant information. Subaru concludes that the verified conditions described by the complainants do no support a finding of the existence of a safety-related defect. Subaru will continue testing and monitoring all relevant data and information. It is now negotiating the repurchase of certain customer complaint vehicles, which will be flown to Japan for further testing and analysis. It is hoped that such testing will be completed by the end of October or early November 2003, with results available for translation and submission to NHTSA by mid-November.
e. In our view, there is no defect, hence there is no warning. As always, drivers are alerted to ABS activation through brake pedal pulsation and noise from the operation of the mechanical components.
------------------------------------------------------------------ -------
Note: for previous documents associated with this investigation, see thread http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/sho...threadid=410975.
I haven't checked the "other" forum, but I bet it's in an uproar.
Ken
Bob
Bob - yeah, see Future Models, I mentioned the R2 indeed is replacing the Pleo, but it's a lot lighter and more efficient.
Look at the ugly Mazda Ibuki, that's the next Miata! Ugh, gimme a B9 Scrambler any day! The Mazda just screams ugly in comparison.
TWO door Touareg Jr? Noone here buys two doors, don't bother.
-juice
Comments from Peter Stevens (who updated the '04 Impreza's styling) on the new design direction Subaru is headed in. He HATES it. Sounds a bit like sour grapes to me, as the new direction for Subaru—but more specifically, the next Impreza—will be radically different from what he's done...
Also, apparently no love lost between Subaru and Holden.
http://drive.fairfax.com.au/content-new/news/general/2003/10/23/F- FX6G1VO3MD.html
Bob
Watch, the new nose will bring younger buyers.
-juice
Bob
-juice
This critical mass group are just a little extreme.
Mark
So I'm posting them here again:
http://www-odi.nhtsa.dot.gov/prepos/files/Artemis/Public/Pursuits- - /2003/PE/INRL-PE03029-16146P.pdf
Near the bottom, the link to previous NASIOC discussion thread is:
http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=41- - 0975
Bob
AN said Lexus will show a hybrid that accelerates 20% quicker than the RX330. What's interesting is that they emphasize acceleration, not economy. There will also be a hybrid Lexus sedan, and a Honda minivan hybrid!
Uh-oh, Bob, I might lose that bet! LOL
-juice
I want to buy a saw for general cutting work of trim, 2x4, 4x4, etc.
Circular or reciprocating saw? Why and which brands?
Ken
As for cutting trim, you would probably be better off with some sort of stationary tool, like a mitre saw ($), compound mitre saw ($$), a sliding compound mitre saw ($$$)or a table saw. You should definitely consider the 10" size (blade) unless you choose to go with the slider.
If you don't have much trim to cut, you might be better off just borrowing or renting a saw, but bear in mind that good (justifiable)opportunities to buy tools can be few and far between.
HTH, Owen
See my comments over on the "Patti" thread. I have some thoughts on what might be happening, but don't want to post them twice.
Steve
Bob
Delta have fairly decent little table saw for Around $250 USD.
With a table saw you can rip thats cut wood lenghways, you can crosscut, you can cut Mitres or compound mitres as in fitting trim and mouldings.
This saw does not take up a lot of room and for the average handyman will last a lifetime.
If you consider going this route do not even consider the light weights with the small aluminum tables, as far as I am concerned these things should be banned as i consider them dangerous, to be safe a table saw should have some heft to the table as in cast Iron, which the small Delta does.
BTW> I am refering here to the junk that sells for about $99, The Ryobi, Bosch, and Rigid table saws with the aluminum tables are perfectly acceptable.
Hope this does not confuse you Ken, but gives you pause for thought.
Cheers Pat.
On the tools front, I really didn't know what I was missing until I bought a 10" mitre saw. Great for exact cuts on framing lumber, trim and mouldings. Before that I would use either my table saw, band saw, mitrebox saw, or hand held circular saw, but none of them do as exact a job as the power mitre saw does.
For cutting sheet (plywood) you will still need a hand held circular saw (simple straight cuts) or a reciprocating/Sabre saw (if you intend to get fancy). When you decide to start taking out walls, nothing beats a Sawzall (spoken as a former old home restorer...)!
Steve
Pat, good observations about table saws, a little heft keeps those stationary tools a little more stationary. I wouldn't call myself an avid woodworker, but at last count, I had over a dozen different ways to cut wood ;-) Tee, hee. New saws are getting difficult to justify (to my financial advisor).
Owen
I will not even go into the rest of the stuff in my workshop, suffice to say there is at least the value of a new Subie down there.
Cheers Pat.
-Skil saw (circular saw) (decent ones are $50-75)
-10" Miter-box ($125-200)
-Sawz-all ($75-100)
Optional, as needed:
-table saw
-saber saw
As a former carpenter, I can tell you that the "must haves" will cover about 99% of what you would need to build a house. The optional saws make life easier in certain situations (obviously the saber saw is for specialized cuts). If I had more room in my garage, I would love to have a table saw, but probably only really need it once a year in my current situation.
I have used my sawz-all as intended, but also to do things like cutting a cracked PVC sewer pipe out of a trench in the ground (sprinkler installation accident) and even to trim a tree branch off! Good tool that can save your bacon.
By the way, with practice and/or a rip guide, you can get some pretty darn straight cuts with a Skil saw.
Also, it's overlooked, but don't forget saw-horses, clamps, safety-glasses, and sometimes a helper!
Craig
If I knew I were going to be getting into what I consider heavy duty work, the table or miter-box sound good. However, I'm just a starting amateur that needs something to make not-so exacting cuts.
So, if both the Skil or Sawzall fit the "must have" category and I had to choose just one, which one should it be?
Ken
Also consider a good hand saw. With a power saw, cutting and then cleaning up the sawdust takes as long as just cutting with a hand saw.
Jim
When I got my cordless drill kit, it came with a small circular saw and a flash light. That's ok for light duty stuff. The batteries charge quickly and it's fine for small jobs, and portable. And it was just $100 (good starter kit).
2'x4's are OK, but not 4'x4's. Look at the size of the blade to determine the depth of the cut, they start at 5" (good for cutting about 2") and go up from there.
For plywood and bigger jobs, get a table saw, or at least a plug-in circular saw.
Honestly? I have a jigsaw and a plug-in circular saw, but I still usually use the cordless one for most jobs (admittedly light duty ones).
-juice
I wonder if this will replace "Driven by what's inside?"
Bob
Drink. And. Drive.
No, not exactly a catchy phrase.
-juice
Over the years I've added to the arsenal a sabre saw, 10" table saw, and a reciprocating saw (Sawzall) - all corded and a 3-1/4" cordless trim saw. I'm looking to add a 10" compound mitre saw to the mix.
Cheers!
Paul
Craig, excellent points on the saws. Certainly for most homeowners, a circular saw is the first, best saw. However, Jim makes a great observation about having a decent handsaw, when only one cut is required, and you don't feel like stringing that cord...
Some clarification on terminology (AFAIK). Both jigsaws and Sawzall type saws are 'reciprocating' saws, but obviously have much different purposes. For simplicity sake, I try to avoid using brand names to describe them. A Skil saw is a circular saw, a Sawzall is a reciprocating saw, and a Sabre saw usually refers to a jigsaw. A lot of confusion seems to arise because of the use of brand names.
Ken, please note that even a 7 - 1/4" circular saw requires 2 cuts to cut through a 4 x 4. Also, if you're not experienced with power saws, please get some decent instruction on their safe use before you start. I know a lot of guys with missing fingers and scars, and they all thought they knew what they were doing...
It's interesting how tool based discussion attract so many responses. Note the gender bias.
Cheers,
Owen
If it's plywood and framing lumber for general projects, I'd say go with the Skil (circular) saw. It's probably the most used saw in my experience.
Sawzall is more of a jack-of-all-trades tool, good to have around for those wierd situations you may encounter. You can beat the snot of a sawzall too, and it will rarely let you down. Just have a good supply of extra blades! Also, it's not a precision tool, it's really for rough-out work.
If you were going to install trimwork, chair-rail, etc... definitely get the miter box. These are cases where you may be making dozens or hundreds of cuts, and the miter box is indispensable.
By the way, most of the mid to high end Sears Craftsman tools are pretty good, just make sure you get them on sale otherwise they are a ripoff. I also like Ryobi and Delta, and have some DeWalt stuff too. (DeWalt used to be the "pro" end of Black & Decker's line, not sure if it's much more than a decal now).
Craig
However, I am still thinking of getting a reciprocating saw. I was borrowing a friend's Super Sawzall and was just amazed at how useful the darn thing was. I used it from taking down our old railing to pruning a tree. I believe it would come in handy for this particular project as well for making rough cuts.
I'll be taking a lunchtime trip over to some hardware stores. Is Milwaukee the brand to get or are there other price-feature-quality competitive brands? How's the Craftsman stuff?
Ken
Skip up a post for my favorite brands.
Craig
I just missed your message. Immediate projects I see where I would need to cut are:
- Repair/replace damaged garage entryway trim
- Rebuild porch railing
- Installing interior molding and trim (ie. crown)
Ken
As Owen pointed out, names get confusing. A small hand held reciprocating saw can be called a jigsaw, a sabre saw, or even scroll saw. But I also have a 16" throat table mounted scroll saw for highly decorative wood working. About 15 years ago I helped to finance necessary tools for old house renovation by making wood crafts sold in local stores and at craft fairs. Talk about a hard way to make money!
Steve
Brenda: you mean you're not gonna chime in on the saws discussion?! LOL
Bob: the concept on the top looks odd. Kind of a concept interpretation of the Quest, with an ugly dash. Is that a Nissan badge?
I like the 6 seater below it, with captain's chairs all around. Also, it looks HUGE inside. Definitely a Honda logo on that one. The interior gets a A++, except for the i-Drive thingy.
Ken: hmm, for that project, I bet a Mitre saw would be the most useful. Though a circular saw would cut it (pun intended!).
-juice
bit