Subaru Crew Cafe

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  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    No, you can't lose your warranty from hardwiring a radar detector.
  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786
    G'day

    Pillock is a lovely English word, describing the sort of fool who leaves his Ferrari 430 Spyder (convertible) under my office window, roof down, during a thunderstorm. There is something remarkable about watching a newly registered car's front seats fill with water as the rain buckets down. Did you know that it pools deeply on the leather seats?

    Cheers

    Graham
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    No, you can't lose your warranty from hardwiring a radar detector.

    I'd say the dealer could void the warranty for anything on that electrical circuit, like the mirror itself, but not on the rest of the car.
  • tsytsy Member Posts: 1,551
    Hmm, that's a good definition- I think I can figure out what it means!

    Hey Graham, I though you guys haven't had rain in like, a decade??? Does this mean your drought is over?

    tom
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    well duh, they ARE seats, right?? :blush:
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    Hello Crew old-timers and new-timers too. I can't remember the last time I posted here so I'll give a quick vehicular update.

    My daily driver is still the 2005 non-premium Forester XT I bought in August 2004. It now has 95K miles on the odo. It needed a new rear wheel bearing at 91K (replaced both) but otherwise has been trouble free. I sold the hobby car I owned when I joined this board, a 1963 Studebaker Lark, in June 2007. At the end of 2008 I picked up another hobby car, a 1970 Porsche 911T which I still own.

    My FXT went into the dealer's body shop this afternoon to repair a couple of scratches the dealer's service techs put into the paint during the 90K service a couple of months ago - on their dime of course. Also on their dime is the loaner car I have for the next three or four days - a 2010 Forester in base trim - at least I think it's base. It has cloth seats, a rubber steering wheel and no seat heaters, but i does have a sunroof.

    The short drive home (~ 5 miles) from the dealer was uneventful, but without an owner's manual I found a lot of the switchgear confusing. Especially unnerving is the variety of colored lighting - gauges are blue and white with white needles, radio and HVAC controls are red, clock/thermometer are gray and the blaring "passenger airbag OFF" light bright amber. There's also this blue mood lighting in the console and coming down from the roof by the map lights that are annoying, especially the overhead blue light that I'd douse if I could. It all disorients and confuses me.

    But enough of my Unfrozen Caveman Lawyer schtick. I'm off to find an online '10 Forester owners manual. Nice to see you all and I'll be back with some crabby middle aged guy thoughts over the next few days...maybe ven try to make a chat.

    Ed
  • grahampetersgrahampeters Member Posts: 1,786
    G'day

    The drought has been rather severe, lasting since 1996. Our water storages are now at about 50% of pre 1996 levels but the drought definitely seems to have abated.

    I am a Loss Adjuster and we seem to be doing a lot of weather claims at present. There are dire storm warnings for the next 36 hours so business is looking good!.

    My wife, somewhat unkindly, equates Loss Adjusters with Undertakers; Taking Delight in Other's Misfortunes!

    The Ferrari F430 Spyder was notable for the appearance of a roof today!

    Cheers

    Graham
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    Hey Ed! Welcome back. I can tell you've been gone quite a while because I don't think there have been any Edmunds chats for at least 2 years, maybe 3. I have no idea why there are still links to them but I guess that's why we are due for a Forums & Carspace overhaul very soon.

    1970 911T? How cool. I bet it doesn't get out in the winter much. :)

    You should definitely stop in and post every now and then. Good group of folks. I haven't owned a Subaru in 8 years and they still accept me. Not that I gave them a choice. ;)
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    edited December 2010
    1970 911T? How cool. I bet it doesn't get out in the winter much

    A new Miata with summer tires ain't any better!

    :D

    Side note: as these tires wear, they are NOISY as all heck. Annoyingly so. Tire pressures checked regularly. I'll have to get tires that are more "touring" oriented next time around.
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    edited December 2010
    Thanks, Colin.

    No, the 911 is pre-galvanized so I keep it off the salt. I put it away for the winter last weekend though I do need to top off the tank and add some fuel stabilizer. Better do that before they salt the roads here. If I lived in a warmer climate I'd drive it year-round; it is bar none the most fun-to-drive car I've ever owned. I've driven it more in two years than I drove my Studebaker in five. :P

    Then again if I lived in a warmer climate I might never have bought a Subaru. :confuse: Buying one was my concession to living in the North for the foreseeable future. However I see they've made inroads in the South in recent years as well, and not just in the mountainous areas.

    Ed
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Anyone else seen this movie?

    I can't say it's a great movie, it's actually a horrible movie that manages to have a ton of funny parts. If you liked Hangover, it's the same actor, and nearly as funny.

    Any how, they drive cross-country in a Subaru Impreza rental, and the car performs a rather hilarious stunt (no spoilers, watch it to find out more).
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 17,726
    Ed,

    Sounds like that rental is a base X Premium.

    I agree that the airbag light being on all the time is rather annoying since it is bright amber, but I rather like all the other lighting - especially the ambient blue LEDs! There is a second one mounted on the cupholder hidden in the rear seats as well. I would like to see one inside the center console and the glove box, too, but apparently those little buggers are expensive. ;)

    I think some of the better features of the new generation (that do not benefit the driver directly) are the vastly improved rear seat leg room and the reclining rear seats (found on the Premium and above trims). While both of my children are still in fixed-back car seats and cannot take advantage of the reclining seat-backs, I'm sure they will appreciate them on long trips when they're older (well, maybe "appreciate" is a bit too optimistic!).
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 17,726
    I'm pretty sure we have a rodent of some sort (probably a vole) living in our car! :cry:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    In the interior? Or engine bay, like mine...
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I don't mind the ambient LEDs either.

    Check the back seat - the fold-out partition is great if you have 2 kids. That and the armrest really keep the separated. The cupholders are LED lit as well, also blue.
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    I did find the seat heater switches, tucked up behind the parking brake handle and out of my line of vision. Not intuitive and not within reach while driving.

    The ambient blue lighting makes me think of a cocktail lounge. Time to pop some Esquivel! into the CD player...speaking of which, I see NOAA weather band is gone. A pity, I enjoy listening to Tom and Donna.

    The car is noticeably quieter than my FXT, wind noise especially. The car is also noticeably less punchy than my FXT which made for some awkward maneuvers during the morning commute but will no doubt be appreciated at the gas pump.

    Ed
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    The 09+ models got door frames, reducing wind noise was one of their main goals.
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Hey Ed! Good to hear from you!

    Next time you get a dealer loaner, ask for a (new) Forester XT. ;)

    Bob
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    http://www.autoblog.com/2010/12/07/ebay-find-of-the-day-1915-van-blerck-special-- speedster-is-18-l/

    A 17L 6-cylinder engine; 18' long and 6' high; and built off a fire engine chassis! It's up on eBay.

    Bob
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Weird... Looks like my last post before the shutdown disappeared!
  • ladywclassladywclass Member Posts: 1,713
    I tried several times off and on over the last several months and I just can't get the chat to load ... oh well ...
  • ladywclassladywclass Member Posts: 1,713
    several weeks ago, when I tried to start the car in the morning (2000 Subaru Outback wagon) the starter did not "engage" but the warning lights all lit up. I tried again and the car started. Maybe a couple weeks later, it did it again. Lately it's happening more often. This morning it took 3 tries to get it to start, then later in the day it took 2, then the next time 4 and the last 2-3 times it started right away.

    The starter does not engage and drag. The battery appears to be fully charged. Anyone have any ideas about this?

    I can't ever remember a car doing anything similar ...
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Brenda, just to be sure: when you say the starter does not engage, do you mean it spins but the gear doesn't mesh with the larger ring gear that turns the engine, or that the starter appears to be totally dead? While they could be different actual failure modes (solenoid vs starter motor), both are physically connected and it usually makes sense to replace them as a unit (even if they are available separately).

    On our model, it is located just below the brake booster, bolted to the tranny's top flange. You will see the negative cable bolted to the tranny lip, and the positive cable under a rubber boot down around the side where it is difficult to get at without taking off the air filter box. The starter is probably attached with two bolts at it's front lip to the tranny.

    Letting off on the key and trying again might get it to work. On another car, I once tapped mine with a hammer and got a few more weeks out of it before it became too unreliable to live with.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    In my last entry I commented that the Chat was still active during the summer, but was usually very poorly attended.

    Welcome back to Brian and Ed.

    Congrats to Lucian on the Volvo R. As I mentioned, I occasionally park next to one, and the owner seems quite happy with it.
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    Hey Brenda,
    The exact same thing happened to me just a couple weeks ago. Turned out to be the ignition switch. Something about a huge current drop between the input & output sides of the switch - not enough juice was getting to the starter. As in your situation, battery was fine, alternator doing its job, etc. etc.

    So, that's the (potentially) good news. Bad news is the part was about $180.

    In the meantime, if it absolutely, positively won't start, try using jumper cables. Apparently the extra current overcomes the short in the switch. Worked for me a couple times until the part arrived.

    Cheers!
    Paul
  • lilbluewgn02lilbluewgn02 Member Posts: 1,089
    edited December 2010
    Hey guys,
    I was wondering what better bulbs can I get to replace both the headlights and driving lights in the WRX. I don't want that blue look that you see on Honduhs, etc, but something brighter, with a longer and wider throw, and a decent life. The OEMs look a bit darker after all these years, or it could be that I'm just getting older!
    Serge
  • ladywclassladywclass Member Posts: 1,713
    I hear nothing from the starter. The car responds exactly the way it does as if you have just turned the key to the "on" position to run accessories. No attempt to start at all ...
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Well, I was sure I knew the solution to your problem until Paul came along and presented another fully viable failure possibility! And that's the problem with long distance diagnostics!

    I guess the next step is a series of tests. Paul made available additional current. That is what I did in the case of my wife's starter solenoid problems (before she was my wife - 30+ years ago), and the extra current would overcome the internal resistance and make it engage. So we have an ambiguous result - extra current can 'fix' either a switch or starter problem. Next we have to separate the components. You need to find the wire from the ignition switch to the solenoid, and see if you get voltage to the starter when the switch is turned. And you have to apply a fresh souce of voltage to the solenoid terminal and see if the starter runs. It gets complicated..... A volt meter and current meter would be a big plus as well so that you can see where the drop occurs.

    Net here is that you might need the help of an electrically inclined auto mechanic to do this right.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Serge,

    I cannot help you with the main headlights, but there is a neat little trick for the fog lights that turns them into pretty bright, wide angle driving lights. Google "9006 to 9005 Conversion". It is a very simple plastic tab modification that allows the very efficient 1700 lumens bulb to fit the 1000 lumens stock location. Best part is that the power requirement only goes from 55w to 65w, so the stock housing and wiring **should** be OK. It works fine in my OBW, but please monitor it carefully as I don't know how this will go in the WRX. I then adjusted the housing tilt up a bit, and they do a great job of illuminating off the sides of dark, lonely roads. Great for seeing the deer!! But - treat them like high beams - no oncoming traffic - as they are quite blinding.

    I am in the process of adding a switch and relay so that they fire up with my high beams only for extra dark road visibility. I'll let you know how that goes when I'm done.
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    Glad I could help, Steve :)
  • ladywclassladywclass Member Posts: 1,713
    and thanks to you both for responding ... both of us in this house are "auto-mechanically impaired" but it's nice to have a ballpark for what might be the problem before going to the garage to have it diagnosed ...

    after driving (mumble-mumble) years I do build a bank of knowledge about different sounds/conditions to have an idea of what is wrong with the car (even if I have no idea how to fix it!) but this one was new to me ...

    we have a garage that we trust pretty well with repairs, but I still like being armed with "some" knowledge before going in ..
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    It is always good to have a second opinion, Dr. Paul.
  • colin_lcolin_l Member Posts: 591
    'New' forum, but we still have this awesome 480 pixel fixed width. :D
  • hammerheadhammerhead Member Posts: 907
    I'm a pretty good guesser/diagnostician - I just don't have the space, nor the tools, nor the experiential know-how to do the actual fix!
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    edited December 2010
    ...twice!

    Thanks for the welcome.

    Missed Lucien getting the V70R. A former colleague had one, let me drive it once; easliy the hottest Volvo.

    Still have the loaner '10 Forester X Premium(?) as FXT is still in the paint shop. Likes: better fuel economy and range, less wind noise, rear seat room and moonroof (at least my son does). Dislikes: less punch for passing/merging/onramps cf. the FXT, more body roll cf. FXT, idiot light for temp gauge, cheaper-feeling interior fabrics and plastics, especially the sun visors and console. Still can't get used to the mood lighting at night.

    I don't know when I'll replace the FXT but if gas prices stay this high or higher and the commute stays similar odds are it'll have to be a N/A Forester. Visions of a CPO E350 Bluetec have entered my head though I don't know how sensible that would be.

    Ed
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 17,726
    Serge - for your headlights, you might consider trying Sylvania XtraVision bulbs. I can't recall what your car uses for the main lights... a 9004 bulb? I purchased a couple sets of 9007s for my Dodge Caravan and Ford Escort, and those bulbs made a dramatic difference over the bulbs that were in there, with none of that white/blue/purple nonsense that I see in a lot of vehicles nowadays.

    They have a decent lifespan, too. I sold the van last summer, but I still have my Escort and the bulbs have been in it for about 18 months now. That translates to around 18,000 miles with lights on at all times.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
  • tsytsy Member Posts: 1,551
    You could always try one of these aftermarket HID kits- they aren't much more expensive than Silverstars and will hopefully last longer.

    I had a friend do this to his LGT which was better. I've never actually done the conversion myself though although I was temped to try it with my SVX.

    Otherwise, the Xtravisions seem decently bright as well- but they're not HIDs. :D

    tom
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    18+ months is not bad.

    I used Hella H4+30 on my Forester and both died in about a year, within a week of each other.

    All I will advise is that if you choose non-standard bulbs, carry the old ones with you (and tools needed) in case they burn out.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 17,726
    Interestingly (or not), I purchased a set of the Silverstar bulbs at the same time I purchased two sets of the XtraVision. The Silverstar are supposedly much brighter than the other, but they are also much more expensive and don't last as long. I think I paid something like $15 for the XtraVision and $28 for the Silverstar. I installed the XtraVision first, though, and since they are still operating, I have not yet installed the Silverstar. When I do, I suspect they will have a whitish/blue light, which is great for snow but I otherwise do not overly care for it.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 2013 Ford F250 Lariat D, 1976 Ford F250, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Despite the hype, if it is sold in the USA and carries a DOT symbol, it cannot exceed a max lumens output. I'm sure that the 'premium' bulbs (Silverstars, etc.) are built to tighter tolerance (filament centering) and are clustered at the very top of the spec, but paying a lot more really cannot legally get you much more.

    Now the European spec ECE bulbs are indeed a little bit brighter. Autolamps, out of England, sells the Philips VisionPlus series. I've bought the H1 (OBW low beam) and 9003 (low/high combo) for the Odyssey. They do seem slightly better, but the life is shorter. I've had decent life with the H1, but horrible with three sets of the 9003.

    If you are daring, there are Halogen Infrared bulbs that fit the 9006 & 9005 sockets. The glass is larger, so you need to be sure that it won't be placed too close to the reflector & lens and melt it. Technically, they do put out more lumens for the same wattage & power, and are DOT legal, but are only qualified for use with certain optics designs (like the Dodge Viper).

    I strongly advise against the HID retrofit kits. Optical design is a fine art. The intent is to put down enough light but not blind oncoming drivers. That means the pinpoint source of light from the filament must be exactly positioned. A gas discharge light is spread out over a much greater volume within the glass enclosure, and thus does not focus as it should without the special optics designed to cut off the wider spread. You can always tell the retrofit from the real thing by the intense, blinding glare that they produce. Yes, they may help the driver, but they can create a hazard on the road for everyone else.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    IIRC the box had the disclaimer "for off road use only", so that's how they get away with selling them.

    To be fair, they were slightly brighter (Hella H4+30, that is), but I didn't think it was worth the risk of blowing out every 12 months. The stock lights went back on the Forester and were still working when I sold it - 9 years!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Does it look good, or what?

    http://www.autoblog.com/2010/12/13/geneva-preview-hyundai-sonata-i40-wagon-gets-- officially-rendere/

    Looks like a Caddy SRX that's squatting and pissed off!
  • saedavesaedave Member Posts: 694
    Note the apparently adequate rear vision for kids behind the car.
  • tsytsy Member Posts: 1,551
    Hyundai is making some nice looking cars. Hopefully Toyota is noticing! (It's probably too much to ask for Subaru to notice though. . .)

    The front looks kinda GT-R esque.

    tom
  • tsytsy Member Posts: 1,551
    I think the HID kits work pretty well if you have projector beam headlights already as long as you don't buy the blinding blue-white lights. I guess it also depends upon the kit.

    I must say that I've been spoiled by the "whiteness" of HIDs that just makes things easier to see simply because of their color, not necessarily because they are actually much brighter.

    I do agree that I've seen some cars with blinding HID conversions, but then again, I've seen a lot of cars with regular Halogens pointed too high that are also blinding.

    tom
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I interviewed for that such a long time ago that I'd forgotten!

    Thanks for the link. They opened with me all caps and bold! :shades:
  • lark6lark6 Member Posts: 2,565
    edited December 2010
    Well done!

    I wonder whether you influenced Subaru's use of removable/upgradable TomTom units.

    Ed
  • tsytsy Member Posts: 1,551
    Good work Juice- maybe carmakers will make GPS more reasonable!!!!

    Hey, I think that cost you one minute of fame though! ;)

    tom
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