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Comments
At present, I am looking for the "Window Channel" for the windows. The existing pieces are usable but have sections that do show signs of wear. Most places I look on the internet do not even mention this "Window Channel" just the usual door gaskets.
Any help in finding a decently priced source for the channel?
Also I bet you can order this right from Benz.
Now my wife is complaining more, so I am hoping it is something like worn spring and shocks. If so, should I goto the MBZ shop or just any shock shop?
So I take it that oil shouldn't be getting up into the air intake area. Or is this a common issue and just means I need to replace the air filter?
But you know diesel engines run at tremendous compression, and as they age, a certain amount of blow-by into the crankcase is inevitable...this is probably where the oil comes from.
If I push the switch for heat from the dash, I don't get anything even when setting is cold- not even cold air.
After driving for a while (20 miles approx), with defrost still on and I start rotating the dial to a warmer setting, it blows air until say midway, and then at the "hot" setting- red area- it stops.
After driving "lots", I can get air from the dash also, but at the "warm" setting- not hot.
When outside temp. is very cold nothing works- no heat when I really need it. Not even the defrost setting.
Any advice on this problem, something to look at before I take it to my mechanic?
I am thinking if the temp. control unit was bad, it shouldn't work at all- why work under warm conditions? I have disconnected my motorized antenna cable when I replaced it with a manual antenna- would this have anything to do with it at all?
Thanks in advance.
odds are it's junk answer". Thank you for your help. If you have a degree of confidence either way please give me your best guess.
I suppose if you kept repairs down to $2,000 or less you'd be okay, but more than that, and you can start to find some pretty nice diesels for sale....and if you go up to $3,500....definitely.
rob
I'm not sure when German AC got good enough to perform in the United States but it sure wasn't the 80s. Part of the problem is that these are all R12 systems which are very intolerant of worn seals and old parts, so the problem is compounded by mediocre German AC engineering, R12 refrigerant system demands (more prone to slow leakage) and plain old age.
The problem with the "myths" surrounding supposedly "tough cars" is that this gives a lot of people the excuse to abuse them rather than care for them as well as they should.
I look at 300Ds and SDs for people on occasion, and most are real beaters---and even the ones that look very nice have issues that have not been dealt with properly.
Some BAD signs: (meaning $$$)
1. Engine won't start quickly when cold.
2. Greasy, oily filthy engine compartment
3. AC "just needs a charge"
4. Car drooping in the rear end (happens to us all)
5. Climate controls inoperative
Solvable Issues (maybe)
1. excessive smoke when accelerating
2. windows won't go up but you can hear the motor (snapped window regulator, common problem)
3. Steering wheel jiggles when you hit a bump (steering shock bad)
4. Torn CV boots in rear axles
WHAT seems bad but really isn't:
1. dirty oil on dipstick
2. Your neck snapping when the car shifts
Whoever towed the car is a moron. A simple belt-type steering wheel lock (typically hooked under front seat to steering wheel and super-common) would have allowed them to tow the car with rear wheels up. Since they didn't even exercise this simple procedure, you can bet they also towed the car at 60 - 70 mph the entire distance. You will note that MB recommends much lower speeds, so I wouldn't take the chance. If trans is not shot, it certainly took a beating. If the tranny on your present car is still working, use it and keep the tranny from towed car. If you are doing body panel replacements yourself, you have the technical savvy to change transmissions as well (carefully!) Also, strip all lenses, bumpers, and trim pieces. As Mr. Shiftright says, you better be getting this car CHEAP. 280
I want to buy an old Mercedes but I do not have the expertise to evaluate them, mechanically. It is a risk, then, for me. So I am thrilled to find this forum. I have been reading your advice and taking it to heart. I found this one that sounds good, but it also seems perhaps expensive. If you could, please read the following and let me know your reaction.
"1985 Mercedes 300d Turbo Diesel sedan for sale. Beautiful Garage Kept California Car that Runs, Drives and Looks Excellent. Rare Bronze with Blue Interior. Close to $6k in recent work including: rebuilt automatic transmission, 4 wheel complete brake job (pads, rotors, etc.), air conditioner service and recharge (has been converted to the new freon system) and 4 newer tires. Have paperwork for all above repairs plus original Mercedes Maintenance booklet with date, miles and stamps of all service history performed at the Dealerships since new. Everything works on this car and it needs no Mechanical or cosmetic work. If your looking for this type of car, this one is a must see. Would be a perfect biodiesel or waste vegetable oil car. Just Waxed and the registration is good until late 2006. Asking $7500 or Best Reasonable Offer. Thanks."
He says it has 207K miles on it and that he looked at over 50 300Ds before he bought it. Supposedly he is only selling to finance an 87 300D.
Also, would anybody be able to recommend a good Mercedes mechanic in San Francisco? I am gathering that it is something of a specialized field. I would like to have any car I am serious about mechanically evaluated. Plus I will need someone to work on the one that I end up buying. A good mechanic is hard to find. I saw that Mr. Shiftright recommended one in Mill Valley, but that is a bit far for me.
Thank you so much!
Best Regards,
Z.
Ah...I'll bet that IS rare!
After reading all 989 of these posts and you are still considering the purchase of one of these, you are one brave person!
207,000 miles? Brave indeed!
The old "vegetable oil" thing is kind of a dreamy idea...I mean, you can DO it, but it takes time and effort, so unless you are almost religiously devoted to this idea of alternative fuels, you aren't going to "save" much of anything off the inflated price of the car by driving it with cheap fuel (if this was going on in your mind as a justification for paying a high price to begin with).
I don't see why you couldn't find a very similar car in similar condition with similar miles for under $5,000.
Instead of the WVO or SVO option, if what you are after is the environmental high-ground and you can afford $3.60 per gallon, try going to Berkeley for biodiesel rather than going to the trouble of SVO/WVO. There is also a co-op in SF that will sell it, but there are strings attached.
Realize that at $7500, you could buy two pretty good turbo 300Ds. Or buy one and bank the rest against the repairs.
I like my cars to be "drive anywhere, anytime, with zero defects". Most 300Ds I look at for people are not 100% cars by any means, even though they look good and run well. I HATE nursing around semi-crippled cars ("don't go up hills in hot weather....try to avoid harsh bumps...the radio doesn't work anymore...sometimes the wipers get stuck....there's a bad oil leak but just add some every week...it won't shift when cold....") You get the idea.
For $7,500, a 300TD should look like it did when Mercedes built it...even then you'll never see your money out of it in a million years. These are plentiful and utilitarian automobiles, and are not going to be saved when they break.
Still, I am fixed on this idea of running on vegetable oil. It just really appeals to me. I guess I am a hard core environmentalist. ;-)
Thanks again. I will keep on looking!
Best Regards,
Z.
Just for grins I would check the paint/interior codes on the car (wouldn't you?). It has probably been re-painted after a collision without regard for what "works" aesthetically. This would be additional reason NOT to buy.
280
The only thing I can think of would be to push a little lighter with your right foot, that usually improves mileage.
I think (and hope) it should run for another 200K miles! The point is if regular maintenance stuff is done, and small problems fixed before they get to be big ones, these cars can be really wonderful. Since purchase, I must have spent about $2000- over 5 years. Had bought the car for about 3000- not bad!
If only now I can fix the door locks and heat- I suspect it is the vacuum for both.
My main complaint with the 300D are two, and they aren't serious enough for some drivers:
1. The cost of diesel fuel in California negates any economy advantage--totally wipes it out.
2. The cars are underpowered for modern traffic conditions...if you need to make a high speed maneuver to get out of danger (like say being stuck in the right hand lane of the freeway behind a stalled car) you are pretty much screwed.
So I guess I'm saying that it ONLY makes sense to pour money into an old 300D or SD if you are going to be able to AMORTIZE those costs over a considerable number of years.
I came out fine on mine but I did a lot of the work myself and scrounged for parts.
I have found that mine is in very good shape, my mechanic tells me it's surprising that the underside is so dry and generally ok. And I am happy with the economics of whatever I have spent. The most important part for me is I feel C-o-n-f-i-d-e-n-t with this car. Another car this old could die any time; somehow I feel that this car won't. Here in midwest, winds can get strong- this car doesn't feel like it's going to blow off.
I guess I'd rather spend a bit on regular upkeep and have no monthly payments!! My other lease car will now sit for 4 months while payments continue because miles are used up.
I am lucky also that I have a good mechanic who does only MBs and only what's needed. I wanted new shocks, but he said it doesn't need them!!
So between doing small things myself and complicated stuff with the mechanic- I kinda enjoy the car!
Door not opening is probably a bad vacuum motor in the door itself, not a huge issue.
Sounds like $2,500 should be more than enough for the car, especially with the high mileage. At 191K, about 80% of the cars' life is already over, so.... At any rate, a complete inspection is in order. If it passes with flying colors and the AC isn't seized, perhaps $3,000 then.
Even if you pay $100 to have the car checked out and you don't/can't buy it, you'll learn a whole lot about these cars and how to shop for them I think--especially if the shop that does the checking is cooperative and informative.
If say they find torn CV joint boots in the rear, or dark, murky, foul-smelling transmission fluid...well, that's something you yourself can check out next time.