Mercedes 300D Suggestions

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Comments

  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think each fuse works two windows, so you have two fuses to check. You might pop the door panels off and see if these windows are jamming. These cars like to break their window regulators (cast aluminum) as the motors are too strong for the regulator and snaps them right in half. Common problem. The door panels are very easy to take off. Armrest screws, one screw behind the door pull (pry out black plastic cover) and two screws at the door striker. Then pop the door panel rivets (they will all break and you'll need to buy new ones) and then PULL UP on the panel. If you break the clear plastic liner on the door, you must tape it back up...it is a moisture barrier and is important.
  • scienceteachscienceteach Member Posts: 3
    Thanks!
  • big_benzbig_benz Member Posts: 1
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  • marclordmarclord Member Posts: 1
    I bought a 1987 300TDT from a private party on the other side of the country. When inspected and shipped, all mechanical functions checked out. For example, it started when cold, ran well, and drove. Then it traveled on a truck for over two weeks and now it doesn't start. Given the following symptoms, what would you suspect?

    1) The ignition cranks and turns the engine over;
    2) The glow plug indicator light will not come on at all;
    3) All other dash lights function;
    4) Outside temperature is 60 degrees Fahrenheit;
    5) No amount of cranking starts it.

    Any guesswork would be appreciated.
  • beechwoodbeechwood Member Posts: 8
    Thanks for the encouragement! Talk about learning a lesson!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I'd check the big shunt fuse for the glow plug circuit and test to see that the glow plugs are even getting any current. Sounds like that's where your problem is, in the glow plug circuit.
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  • wvoplush2wvoplush2 Member Posts: 10
    New to the forum...really appreciate it......I just bought an 82 300 turbo D, in great shape for the price (700--shes got cosmetic issues). Friday I drove it home on the expressway--seems pretty tight for an 82 with 195K. has new motor mounts-tranny looks not orig. It has a weak battery but starts up on the second or third crank every time. Heres my ghost story... I lock the doors at night and when i go to check my baby in the am, the locks are unlocked (except the drivers door). I have tested it during the day over 4 hours, but its still locked. So-- ive read that the locks are vacuum controlled from driv door (i think i heard car buffs joking about this--never thought it was true!!). I ve read lots in the forum about the locks not working (so find a vac leak), or not working and engine not shutting off, but never this weird unlocking thing....any ideas master shiftright? :confuse:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yep, you have some vacuum issue...since the car UNLOCKS itself, my guess would be the master control switch in the driver's door is bleeding vacuum into the "release" mode, and tickling the vacuum motors in each door. I can't remember whether the doors LOCK when the vacuum is "sucking" on the motors or locks when the vacuum is OFF---it's been too long. So that failure of memory would affect my diagnosis in this way: If the vacuum locks the doors on "suck", then a vacuum leak ANYWHERE in the car would cause them to all unlock. If the vacuum locks the doors on "release" (no vacuum) and unlocks them on "suck", then we'd presume the master control switch in the door is defective.

    I hope this makes sense and helps.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    You really need a factory body manual to fully understand the central locking system, but Shifty has it basically right. The only way I can think of the doors unlocking on their own is if the "master element" (that's what MB calls the thing in the drivers door) is allowing vacuum to pass into the unlock mode over time, i.e. overnight.
    I have read that the thought behind the vacuum locks was that they would function several times after the engine was off (vacuum is stored in the reservoir tank in the trunk) and they would work if the battery is dead. If the system is fully functional with little or no leaks then they will work 4 - 5 times. In actual practice though it can be a maintenance headache.
  • elrod1elrod1 Member Posts: 8
    i'm currently trying to decide between an '83 sd and an '85d. the sd has less miles and is less expensive, but there is a tear in the back seat. the d looks perfect in almost every sense but has about 30,000 more miles on it for nearly $2,000 more. what are the main differences between the d and the sd and is there anything i should be keeping my eye out for. Thanks for all the help.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Is the D a W123 or W 124 and is it a turbo or not?

    If it's a W124 it's a lot lighter than a 300SD W 126. The 126 is the old body style and is old-fashioned looking but the W124 is more modern in style.

    If it's an old W123 300D I wouldn't even consider it.
  • elrod1elrod1 Member Posts: 8
    hmm...i don't know if it's a 123 or 124, but it is a turbo. but you don't recommend the 123?
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 58,537
    If it's an 85, it's a W123...the W124 didn't come to NA til 1986
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    A 300D turbo with the 617A engine. Yeah, that's okay. I thought it was maybe a W123 non-turbo, which are really too slow to be safe.
  • fintailfintail Member Posts: 58,537
    From the earlier post, I think the differences between a turbo 123 and a 126 are only in body. I personally am partial to the 126 as I think it is a perfect design, but the 123 is a good car in its own right. Depends on the size of vehicle you want more than anything. A 126 is a bit of a boat.
  • wvoplush2wvoplush2 Member Posts: 10
    Thank-you both. well, i havent diagnosed the master element to control vac locks in door--i'm waiting for the manual to come in mail b4 i mess with it. by the way--i ordered a manual on cd from seller on ebay--did i waste my $10 or do u think itl have door lock system?? just curious if anyone has firsthand exp with that.

    well, in the meantime I took the air filter cover off and noticed oil all over inside--surprised it didnt run more rich with an oil-soaked paper filter. so i rechecked the oil and saw that it was more overfull than the first time i checked it before buying. i think its less than 1 qt too full. after putting the oil cap and air filter back on, i fired her up, to test if pulling the saturated filter off while its running would somehow make it run less rich. minor improvement if any though. but whats strange is that oil vapor--not blue smoke--but some kind of vapor is pouring out of the breather tube while it runs. I would assume that its cuz its overfull but Ive never seen this vapor in a gas engine--only oil drops. anyway im changing the oil & to the right level before any more driving to prevent blowing seals. (would u recommend 10w40 castrol or some synth oil for this?) So has anyone seen this b4? am i actually burning oil? do i have a bad pcv? does this engine have a pcv? And lastly, will MB ever bring back the awesome body style of the 82 300td?? :shades:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah you wasted your $10. Dont' even open the package with the CD, just drop it in the trash. Well okay, look at it and see what you think.

    The oil vapor is probably blow-by from piston ring wear....but you have to remember, a diesel engine has something like 22:1 compression, so this is to be expected on an old car. Overfilling the oil didn't help this, but you'll see it time and again in your air filter. Good idea would be to rotate the air filter every few thousand miles.

    And don't freak out if you put in new oil and it looks totally black in 15 minutes of running---that's normal for older diesels.
  • 93integra93integra Member Posts: 16
    the 79 300D is a one owner vehicle. The owner purchased the car new in CA back in 78 for his wife who only drove the vehicle 148K miles in the 27 years that they have owned it. They have always kept it garaged and kept it garaged during the winter since they had other forms of transportation. It has original white paint, no dents or dings nor rust. It has a used engine in it after a mechanic neglected to fill the engine with oil after an oil change. Another mechanic tinkered with the climate control so now there is no A/C and the heater fan does not work properly. The used engine as stated by the owner, " makes noise louder than the original engine". I think the noise may be the valves, but have not seen the vehicle yet. Purchased it sight unseen, based on pics. Will be picking the vehicle up for the first time this Thursday in Princeton NJ. I'm going to be paying $1025.00 for the car. Please let me know what you think? I think the price was a steal taken into consideration the condition of the vehicle and what minor repairs it may need. The item number for the auction is 4634516467 if anyone wantes to see pics of it.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I looked at the car on Ebay. Well, it looks good, but it's a non-turbo so I hope you like going slow. It is the smaller body so that helps some.
    The climate control problem is probably that servo valve in the front of the engine (that plastic box with all of the vacuum lines and wiring connected to it), but it could be a problem with the A/C system also, or both. The fact that they said the fan speed doesn't work right leads to think that the servo valve is not working right, but it's hard to tell for sure. They said that the "heater fan doesn't work right", but does that mean the heater doesn't work at all? If not, then back to the servo valve. That's an expensive repair (about $400 if you do it yourself), and there could be other problems.
    They didn't say how many miles were on the used engine installed, but since they said it's noisier than before it leads me to think that it has a lot more. That would be likely since a used engine put installed in 2003 would probably be quite old.
    The body looks real good, interior also, but I think you'll find that the front seats, especially the drivers seat, has a worn out bottom seat pad under that upholstery. That can be repaired.
    All I can say is good luck. You may want to invest in a set of factory manuals if you do your own repairs.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I think you paid about the fair price, no bargain, no rip-off.
  • 93integra93integra Member Posts: 16
    hey thanks for the info guys, I'm not too concern about the seat. My fathers a master upholster who has plenty of horse and hog hair and cotton for repadding the seats. His shop is also next to to a garage which specializes in the older Mercedes. I plan on doing all the repairs myself and will be investing in some manuals in the near future. IF the a/c needs recharging, i still have a couple cans of R-12 freon left and the Pepboys where I work at has several cases of it locked up, which I have a license to purchase. I'll let you all know how the car turns out when I get it. Hope the engine isn't that bad. Out of curiosity, would I be able to just swap a turbo charged engine in my car off another year? seems like a straight forward swap if I can find a used turbo engine.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Don't know anyone who has tried that swap. You'd probably have to ask one of the Mercedes specialty dealers or forums. Really you'd be better off just buying a used 300 turbo car. They aren't very expensive.
  • lhooklhook Member Posts: 5
    '89 300E gas. When I lock the door or trunk the alarm goes off. The 4 doors/trunk/gas cap lock. When I unlock the alarm shuts off and all the above opens. Thanks In Advance
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Oops! you're in the wrong topic. This is the classics car board. You need to be in with the modern cars. I'd suggest a topic in our Maintenance & Repair Forum, called "Electronic Gremlins". Here's the link. Just cut and paste your question in there. Good luck!

    Electronic Gremlins

    Host
  • 93integra93integra Member Posts: 16
    I picked the car up on Thursday. The couple that owned it were very nice and took really good care of the car. The paint was a little faded and chalky, but overall its in great condition. It even has the original safety kit,tools spare and jack,and all the owners manual and pamplets. It's ashame they didn't keep all the maitenance records but all the maintenace schedules in the owners manual were filled out and stamped by the dealerships that performed the work. The power steering seems to work on and off. While driving,it would be easy and then going into a turn it would feel as though there was no power steering. Anyone know what the culprit maybe? I'm planning on flushing out the power steering and filling it with fresh fluids to see if that helps. Valves definitely need to be adjusted. I took the car out and it seems the thermostate is stuck close, Coolant was spewing out of the radiator cap. Currently the battery light and brake lights come on and off. Only need to do a few more things as far as detailing the vehicle,but its going to need a few repairs.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    flushing the power steering might help. There is a relief valve that could be sticking.
  • 93integra93integra Member Posts: 16
    I recharged the battery in the car. After I installed it, I went to restart the car.. Engine is running, but the crank pulley isn't spinning, nor is the ac belt or power steering let alone the water pump? Could the Crank key have sheared? The car runs, I backed it out of the drive way and then pulled into the drive way again. It's just the crank pulley isn't spinning like it should. I remember spinning taking a 22m socket and turning the power steering pump manualy up until I hit a hard spot and stopped. Anyone know what this could be?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Yeah, the key sheared. Usually this happens when the crank pulley bolt works loose...this causes the pulley to shift back and forth rapidly and eventually breaks the key.

    Best case scenario you put in a new key and pulley. Worst case scenario you have an enlongated or damaged keyway groove in the crank---sometimes people buy cars where this has already happened before, and a quickie repair is done with a new pin and pulley and lots of torque on the crank bolt--then the car is offed to the unsuspecting new buyer-but with an elongated keyway the pulley will soon come loose again and break another pin, no matter how tight you make the bolt.

    If the keyway is gouged out, or the crankshaft tip itself has been ground up, you may have serious problems here. Otherwise, putting on a new pulley and key isn't that big a deal.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    I hope Shifty is right and it's only a sheared key on the crankshaft, because it could mean the crankshaft has broken at the front main bearing. It's not unheard of for that to happen, especially on diesels.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    If it's a new pulley on there, or a new bolt, or if the threads are stripped, I'd have a LONG talk with the seller....
  • 93integra93integra Member Posts: 16
    yeah I hope that it's only a sheared key. I began the process of removing the crank pully. I managed to take the power steering belt and A/C along with Fan belt. That's when I could reach down and grab hold of the crank pulley. Feels sloppy and feels really loose. I havn't taken it off the crank yet. I've been calling around, even the dealership for a new crank pully and no one has one. Anyone know of an online site? Just preparing myself for the worst. I also called John, the owner of the garage next to my fathers shop, he has a spare engine available. Also,I was wondering, the auxillory fan located in front of the radiator,is it suppose to come on when you start the engine and run constantly or is it suppose to turn off eventually and come on when the engine is hot?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    No, the cooling fan does not run with a cold engine. It should kick in at a certain temperature and also shut off after it has cooled the engine down. It is controlled by oe or more sensors that measure coolant temperature. If that system is fouled up you could temporarily hook the fan up to a dashboard switch, but of course you have to remember to shut it off manually when you leave the car!
    I'd recommend a switch AND a red light.

    You can get a pulley from a wrecking yard. There are lots of these cars sitting around.
  • goldcargoldcar Member Posts: 23
    I have NEVER seen that fan budge on my '82 300D. It never mattered to me until a couple weeks ago when I drove from Oregon to San Francisco down I-5 on a 90 degree day. They car's temp was alway 90-100 and once (at 4000 feet elev.) approached 120 so then I stopped.

    How can I get that fan working and what else can I do to prevent overheating?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Well first you might ground the wire to the sensor and see if the fan kicks in. You have to determine if the fan itself is defective or if the sensors/relay circuit isn't working. You might also check the fuse for that circuit.
  • 93integra93integra Member Posts: 16
    I managed to get the crank pulley separated from the timing disk. Now the problem is,how do I go about taking the crank shaft bolt off of the crankshaft without it turning on me. Is there a way I can lock the crank shaft? Theres not enough room for me to use an air gun. (I didn't remove the radiator or A/C condensor). I've looked in the chilton manual but no luck. It's Kinda vague.
  • burdawgburdawg Member Posts: 1,524
    If you take the valve cover off can you get a wrench on the timing gear and hold it with the timing chain? The other way I know is to use a strap wrench on the crank pully, but this may not help in your case. Also, you can use the ring gear on the flywheel to hold it but that's a bit more difficult.
    Glad to hear that the crankshaft is in one piece. That was a longshot anyway. Your not out of the woods yet though - if the slot in the crankshaft is worn bad then a new key may not help. Perhaps if that is the case you can have a machine shop make you a wider key and machine the groove in the pully to match. I'm not sure if that would work, just thinking out loud.
  • 93integra93integra Member Posts: 16
    thanks for the info Burdawg. I was able to get the bolt out. I actually locked the fly wheel in placed with a socket and then took the crankshaft bolt off. Problem now is that when I took off the balancer, theres a slight groove in the crank shaft end from one of the metal dowels and the inside of the balancer is worn as well. It's really loose when it sits on the crank. I was thinking of using a dremel tool with a round diamond bit to freshen up grooves in the crank as well as enlarge them as you mentioned. I'll probably look for a new used balancer at the junk yard. Now the question is, how do i properly position the crank balancer back on the crank shaft in the proper position? I know in the manual it has you mark the position before taking the parts off, but I didn't have that chance sine the pulley stayed in place while the engine ran.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    no, no, don't take a dremel to the groove in the CRANK. The key has to fit very precisely in there. Any looseness and the same thing will happen again.The balancer cannot be allowed to "move in the groove" at all.
  • 93integra93integra Member Posts: 16
    A used auto parts place not too far from my house has a used turbo diesel engine w 124,000 miles for $2,500.00. That's 1,500 more than what I paid for the car. I'm debating whether to get it or not or just hold off and check out the junk yards for a cheaper motor or good used crank. It's ashame, the body is in such good condition. Hardly any rust. Hate to see such a beautiful piece of machinery sit. I know the cars worth more in parts but it would be a sin... I have another question. How does the auxilary water pump install on the vehicle? Mine didn't come with one but I see it advertised.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Don't do that...bail out if you have to and go buy another one. You can find nice clean good-running ones for $2,500.
  • 93integra93integra Member Posts: 16
    yeah your right. I'll keep my eye open. Worst case scenario, I hold off and check the local junk yards and paper for a good used engine. When I bought this car, I was hoping it just needed minor maintenance, didn't expect this to happen.
  • mateocmateoc Member Posts: 5
    Sorry to switch directions from the integra thread, but I have an unrelated question. I just replaced the left rear window regulator with a used (nealy straight) one. My problem is that no juice seems to be going to the left rear window. I replaced the switch in the front and tested the motor. The (LR) motor, when supplied power outside of the car batt, runs like a champ. I'm trouble shooting now and hitting nothing. I should say that, since I bought the car that window has never worked, then, on a whim it decided to go down when prompted by a friend in the back seat (minutes before work, I tell you!). Of course it wouldn't go back up. But there was power going there a few days ago. The blue wire in the top of the door switch is loose. That said, the next step?
    thank you in advance for advice passed.
    mc
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Are you testing for current BEFORE it reaches the window switch or after? Have you noticed if your right FRONT window also doesn't work?
  • mateocmateoc Member Posts: 5
    Well, the right front works fine, in fact, all other windows work fine--both switches in some cases. I haven't tested for current at the rear switch before or after. I'm not sure if I am qualified to do that or have the tools. Any suggestions? I tried using the door switch from the right rear, which is a functioning switch, on the left rear door. Nothing. Also, the left switch, when used on the right rear door switch, works. So I've ruled out that it's a switch, which makes it something inbetween, Some sort of a short. What do you recommend? Would I have to individually test each wire?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Okay, you did well there...so no current going to window switch at all...you might check the connections at the fuse box for that circuit; otherwise, I'd imagine the wiring for that switch runs along the sill plates, under the carpeting. If you had a needle probe, you could pierce the wire periodically, grounding the probe, and see if current appears in various spots along the wire.
  • mateocmateoc Member Posts: 5
    I'm not sure that I understand the fuse box on the benz. It seems to have so few fuses, while having so many electrical items. Before I go in there, is it possible for only the rear set of wires to have problems while the front switch works fine. (You know how they are on the same little strip.) or better put, are all the windows on the same fuse?
    Once again, thank you Mr. Shiftright.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    Now you are asking questions that only a wiring diagram can answer.
  • mateocmateoc Member Posts: 5
    I'll stop being lazy and go take a look at that wiring diagram. it makes me dizzy.
    thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Member Posts: 64,481
    I don't want to tell you something about a wire only to have the car burn up on you because the colors changed from one year to the next.
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