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Comments
City driving in hot weather (all summer here in New Orleans, LA) sends the coolant temperature gauge almost to the red. Then the A/C compressor shuts off, making it unbearably hot for passengers. However, after stopping car and turning key to accessory, the gauge will show about 100 degrees (far below overheating).
My independent mechanic has more than 20 years exp. working on MB. He says the reading when the engine is not running is the accurate one and the car is in no danger of overheating. He replaced radiator and all hoses about a year ago; replaced thermostat last month and flushed radiator. Also, electric fan works. He is not really sure what the problem is, but thinks it might be the gauge itself. It seems to me that it must be something else, b/c I wouldn't think a bad gauge would cause the compressor to switch off and on.
Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
Don't play guessing games with a possibly overheating engine.
Also, 100 degress can't be right, or if it is, you have another problem. No engine could run properly at 100 degrees for very long, it would sludge up.
So if the gauge is right while driving you have a problem, (overheating) and if it's right while on accessory you have another problem (running far too cold).
I have two concerns: one, with the compressor cutting off all of the time, it is very hot inside the car. Two, if the car were to overheat, I wouldn't know it. I don't think it is the gauge itself, because I don't think the gauge would read incorrectly, then switch off the compressor. Maybe I'm wrong on this, but isn't another component reading the temperature, switching the compressor off, and then sending the incorrect info to the gauge?
I've had two local independent MB mechanics look at it, and neither one can figure it out. Maybe I should just replace the gauge and go from there? Thanks.
Are you sure the compressor goes off strictly due to temperature? Could it be caused by low vacuum in the climate control? Since this is a diesel, I assume it has a vacuum boost pump. Is it working right? Also, if your freon charge is low the pressure sensor in the high pressure line could be turning off the compressor to prohibit damage.
I keep the vacuum systems on my old 280SE tight as a drum (well as tight as a 23 year old drum can be) and under high load such as accelerating uphill from a standing start in hot weather it will sometimes lose enough vacuum to disable the climate control until it recovers. BTW, my 280 usually runs around 90-100 C.
kodename:
That center air vent not operating could be caused by many things. A defective vacuum solenoid or linkage, a faulty switchover valve, or even the climate control servo itself. I'm not as familiar with the system on that model as some others, but I would suspect that it's not to far different than the older cars. I think the first place I would look is the vacuum solenoid on the vent flapper itself, unfortunately it's probably the hardest to get to. Most times they recommend removing the dashboard to get to it, but I've done it on other models without doing that. It's not easy though.
He should be able to actually look and see if the a/c compressor clutch has been disengaged or not.
I noticed that the car was still "pulling" to the right, exactly what it had been doing before the alignment. So I returned it yesterday and asked that they recheck the alignment.
Got the car back this morning and spoke with the owner. He said the alignment was perfect, but the car's "steering box" was worn. He said he had tightened everything up, made some adjustments and rotated the tires, and the car now tracks straight and true.
When I asked about possibly replacing the steering box, he said he'd advise against it because of the age of the car (even though it has only 97,000 miles), the fact that he was able to correct the "pulling" problem and, more important, the very high cost (at least $1,000.00).
I wonder what a dealer would have advised me to do!
The overall condition of the car is superb -- everything works well and everything is original (except the transmission), including the a/c, cruise control and even the clock (knock on wood). It's always garaged, and I keep lots of coats of Zaino on the paint and vinyl dressing on the interior. Unless we experience something major, we'll keep the 300D forever!
unless doing very severe service, such as on rough dirt roads in a third world country or something.
If, instead, your post was an assertion ("The steering gear box shouldn't be worn out at 97K unless doing very severe service, such as on rough dirt roads in a third world country or something"), I'd have to classify your comment as "an opinion" that hasn't been substantiated by fact or data.
No offense intended, but there are probably a lot of factors that go into the equation of wear of a steering box besides "very severe service . . ."
The 300D was our primary car until it was about 10 years old, and since has been driven only occasionally. I sometimes cringe when I watch my wife back it out of the garage and then turn the wheel from stop to stop several times while stationary, maneuvering to get out of the driveway. The car has seen lots of in-town driving on short trips, but has been serviced regularly and well maintained (the oil is changed about two times a year, every 400 or 500 miles).
So I can't complain that the steering box may be somewhat worn, but it definitely does not need replacing at this time (thankfully!).
Our 280SE is used about the same as your diesel, only occasionally. At 170K+ it's mostly a garage queen now. My wife would rather sell it, but I suspect she only wants to put more junk in the garage.
I travel into Mexico quite often, and am used to seeing cars (not many MB's, though) with front end problems, mostly in rural areas where the roads quite often leave much to be desired. That's where that opinion comes from, but of course there are always other factors involved.
Has anyone done a cylinder leakdown test?
thank you
Host
There are 183k miles and the 180k service was never performed.
The build date is 03/93 but there is a carburetor instead of fuel injection. I'm concerned that it might be a late '92 model. Were there significant changes between the two years?
Also, the car drives well and all the electrical items work but the idle is not steady and there are (belt?) squeaks. Bad parts: chipped plastic on grill and exterior hood pull lever is missing.
What should I be concerned about mechanically? The car is listed at less than $7800 and the tires, door seals and paint look excellent. Thanks for any expert help or comments!
Remember this: "all cars at auction have been abandoned by their owners."
Find a 300TE with far fewer miles and pay the extra $5,000 to get it.
Buy low miles, don't shop price on a car like this is my advice. Even at $7,800 it is overpriced.
But If you must have it, ( I know this feeling) and if it checks out 100% with flying colors from a Mercedes shop that knows them, about $7,000 is what the books say. The low price is because of a massive deduction for this much mileage, so figure on that when you look at Price Guides.
Can there be anything scarier than old hi-tech with 183K on it?
I'm a little nervous about the age and my wife and I both have newer ('98 & '99) Audis. The MB looks nice but the usual amenities are missing or dated. The wife will see and drive it tomorrow.
She thinks that an older car will eliminate her car payment but I suspect that the payments will go toward maintenance instead.
And when she realizes that there are no cup holders... :-)
If it is conspicuously blue, the answer might be valve seals and valve guides.
If it's dense black, you have a combustion problem.
I will follow the suggestions above.
Yes, the car has a lot of miles on it (296K). You would never know it by looking at it. I haven't noticed any excessive smoke. I will follow the car while it is driven by my wife and take notice of the smoke.
A couple of questions:
Firstly, upon washing the engine, I noticed that there is leakage at the threaded rings of the prechambers (4 out of 5 are leaking). After a drive, I notice some oil(?) bubbling at the outside of the threaded rings. Surely this can't be good.
It appears this would take a special tool to remove and replace the seal below?
Is this normal? Is it something that needs immediate addressing?
Secondly, on a gasoline engine at altitude, you advance the timing in order to help improve power outout. In reading the manual, I notice that fuel on a diesel is timed at about 24 BTDC. Is there a similar adjustment for a diesel? In other words, should fuel timing also be advanced at high altitude? It would seem to make some sense, since the burn process will also be slower at higher altitude... Maybe 4 or 5 degrees?
Sam.
So here goes:
Any quick fixes on the reverse gear?
Otherwise, rebuild versus junkyard swap on the Tranny?
More important, as a first time diesel buyer, are there any telltale signs or test I can do to avoid a money pit with the engine (or other potential snares)? I understand that when the engine goes, the replacement is more than the car is valued. But the car is gorgeous and solidly built.
Also, What's the maintenance frequency on cleaning the injectors?
Any help is appreciated. I'm entering new territory here.....
So that leaves the option of getting one from a wrecker, which isn't a bad idea if you can get a good price on parts + installation. They are a rather sluggish and rough-shifting unit, so don't be concerned if the car shifts like a dump truck--it's supposed to.
If the car starts instantly, that's a very good sign for the health of a diesel.
As for injectors, you should change the filter AND the pre-filter frequently, and ALWAYS use an additive, each tankful. That should keep you out of trouble.
I am in the processing of buying a 1986 MERCEDES-BENZ 300 SDL TURBO DIESEL SEDAN 4D. The Paint Job is 2 years old, Engine rebuilt 2 years ago. Automatic.. The mileage on the speedometer is 264,000. NEGATIVES: (1) The passenger side WINDOW does not go down (2) The “ABS” brake light is on (3) The CLOCK does not work (4) The passenger side MIRROR control doesn’t work. Otherwise, the MBZ looks CLASSY/GREAT the outside and pretty good on the inside. TEST-DRIVE was Good A/C and HEAT Works ..PRICE: $2900
My QUESTION: I would like to have a compression check done and the non-MBZ MECHANIC that will do it needs to know the COMPRESSION RATIO/PARAMETERS.
Thanks for any answers that I can get, I am to purchase the MBZ tomorrow 12./19/03.
Also, if the car starts right up when cold, idles smoothly (well, comparatively) and performs well on the road (isn't bog slow), then the compression is probably okay.
With a vehicle that has this massive amount of miles on it, I would insist on seeing service records, otherwise I'd tend to forget it, if it's a "mystery" car that no one knows the history of.
If the right side window motor is working (you can hear it hum) but the window doesn't go down, you have probably broken the window regulator (common problem) and this is not a cheap repair. If you don't hear the motor, it's probably a switch or fuse.
LOL!
I am "jkmercedes". Here's what happened, I was at my Job when I registered, using my job e-mail address. Unfortunately, I cannot break through my job's "Computer Firewall". Therefore, I am now on my personal computer account. Technology.
Well back to my MERCEDES ISSUES. By the way thank you for your response already...I kid you not, I have read everything that been discussed in the MERCEDES 300 SERIES. Outstanding and Valuable Information.
IN RESPONSE TO YOUR REPLY 187 of 187: I am going to give you the whole spill. This car "1986 MERCEDES-BENZ 300 SDL TURBO DIESEL SEDAN 4D" is being sold by someone that works at the same company that I am employed at. My job with this company is administration and his speciality is "machinary technician," additionally, he stated that diesels are his love and presently drives a diesel powered pickup truck.
Anyway, according to him that car was handed down to him by his father approximately six months ago and his wife was using it but now she wants a new different type of vehicle. The history was this vehicle was sold to his father some years back by his best friend who happened to be a MERCEDES BENZ mechanic and serviced the vehicle accordingly. (They live 300 miles away).
I requested the "COMPRESSION TEST", I guess for my own peace of mind. It does seem to ride nicely, with the exception that (1) It didn't seem to have that aggressive "fast" acceleration when the pedal was pushed to the metal..LOL..then (2) When you punch the gas pedal from a stop position in stop and go traffic, it once again don't have that quick "spurt ahead".
Then (3) there was a slight rattle felt when I depressed the brakes while driving the vehicle-could then be something minor?
Therefore, the "comression" ratio question was posed by the "seller", in that he called around and could not get a straight answer as to the compression parameters.
We are connected by the same company, but I did not know him personnally. However, he seems like a nice guy, he's a young guy around 23-26 years old.
The car otherwise seems tight- and "CLASSY and NICE" looking. Maybe I am being blinded by the MBZ Light...LOL.....Translation..I really want this car....
What your final take! Compression test or no compression test and (2) The Brake Issue (The ABS Light-does stay on)......I value and is looking forward to your response.
Sorry for being long winded...The wife is mad at me and we were not talking alot today...LOL...True...but come June we will have 20 years of marriage, and I wouldn't trade her in nothing.....
IF I were in your shoes I would pay a qualified Mercedes shop $100-150 or so to go through the car and report back to you, with estimates for repairs necessary. If the ABS problem is serious, that could be a substantial number of Benjamins to repair properly. The window and mirror, no big deal. Brakes, not so bad, pretty straighforward. Engine work? Disastrously expensive.
As for acceleration, most often if Mercedes diesels don't perform right it is a question of dirty injectors and dirty fuel filters. Your turbo diesel should move out smartly from a stop, since most of a diesel's torque is down low in the RPM band, and it should accelerate well up to 3,500 rpm at least.
If your friend is a diesel guy, then he knows the drill. But even a good compression report doesn't mean you don't have other difficulties.
So, to recap:
1. Report from a Benz shop.
2. If okay (that is, excellent report), change both fuel filters and add a serious and strong diesel additive/cleaner.
3. Have the valves adjusted if they haven't been done the last 30,000 miles.
4. Changle the oil and filter
5. Flush out the radiator
6. Flush out the brake system
All this should cost you about $500 and get you off to a good start. But keep in mind that you are buying a car with a maximum retail value of about $3,500.
So if you can buy a better car for $3,500, do that. If you can't fix up this car for PURCHASE PRICE + REPAIRS = $3,500, don't do it.
These cars are common, plentiful and cheap. You don't have to rush into one if you want one.
This is the day of purchase, for the
"1986 MERCEDES-BENZ 300 SDL TURBO DIESEL SEDAN 4D"
Since I received your reply 189 of 189 above, I will definitely not be blinded by the looks of the vehicle, but will be objective. I will also be armed with a last minute "CHECKLIST" to inquire of before I PURCHASE....
If all goes well, this will be my FIRST MERCEDES BENZ owned AND that I have even DRIVEN...I am
excited about the prospect of owning this CLASSY LOOKING VEHICLE (smile-LOL)-I know! PAY ATTENTION TO THE MECHANICAL DETAILS...
Thanks again for your HELP/GUIDANCE/and ASSISTANCE
Unfortunately, I cannot guarantee (smile) that I will not be "checking" in with you again.....
Wishing YOU and YOUR FAMILY a blessed, happy, and safe HOLIDAY!!! and a Equally BLESSED NEW YEAR.
OOPS! I ALMOST FORGOT!!!!!
One more question! (1) Do DIESEL FUEL VEHICLES give off a "SMELL" that you can notice inside the vehicle??
If you want, you can spray the area in the trunk and at the gas flap with OZIUM, a kind of odor killer, and also wash out the areas where fuel might have spilled.
Thank you, happy holiday to you and yours as well!
Do you think that $11,500 is too much money for the following? OR could it be worth it considering the following:
Elderly owned
130,000 miles
original engine
transmission overhauled at 83,000
always garaged
chrome rim trims
all accessories ps,pl,pw,moonroof,etc. is in
excellent working condition
the owner says the car is in "mint" condition.
what's your thoughts...I will be looking at
it today......
v/r Thanks............
You can buy these cars all day long in top shape for $5,000 and all the money in the world, to the moon, is maybe $6,000.
And if you shop around, $4,000 is certainly possible for a very fine car.
130K miles is well over half the car's normal life span already.
I wouldn't pay $11.5K if it had zero miles on it, sorry.
The old guy will have to face reality soon enough. Politely offer him $5,000 and give him your card. He'll call sooner or later and compliment you on your generosity I think.
Anyway, as you know from my earlier questions, I have now owned my 1986 300 SDL of which I paid $2700.00 for with 264,000 miles about 2 weeks now.
I Am A First Time Owner***
As for maintenance, can I have the following maintenance work done at any garage or should I take it to a mercedes dealership for the work?
1. OIL CHANGE
2. BRAKE SERVICE - FRONT/BACK/ROTORS, ETC.
3. RADIATOR FLUSH
4. TRANSMISSION SERVICE
QUESTION #2
When I put on the heat while car is in operation, only cool air blows out. However, when I leave the buttons on the heat control in the on position and restart the car then the heat comes on warming up the car. What is causing this problem, and would a "heater Valve Solenoid Kit" possibly solve the problem.
QUESTION #3
Would adding the "REDLINE DIESEL FUEL ADDITIVE"
Hurt my vehicle or help it.....
Thanks a million for your help....
Yes, a local garage can handle the functions you mention. However, I would use only quality rotors and get the trans. filter from Mercedes
#2. The heat controls are very sluggish on these cars. You may have to wait a bit after you dial in the heat control. Give it a minute or two. If nothing happens, you might check for loose vacuum lines. The whole a/c and heating system on these cars is ridiculously complex. Sometimes shutting it off and then back on works for me.
#3. Yes, redline diesel fuel additive is a good product. I use it every fill up, as directed.
However, concerning replacing the "HEATER VALVE SOLENOID" which I can get for about $20.00, will that possibly help with the heating/ac problem?
QUESTION #2 I forgot the first time through.
Can I take my 86' 300 SDL to any shop for a wheel alignment?
Thanks a million again...
Don't really know about the heater valve solenoid as my car, a bit older, has a different system, but if it is really that cheap, it makes some sense to give that a try. They can get sluggish. The only thing that makes me doubt this a little is that you can get it to work in another way, which suggests that something controlling the solenoid is the issue.
Mr. Shiftright as I stated before this is not only my first time owning a MERCEDES BENZ - but I will be honest, it is also my first time driving one as well.
I love it. On the highway this baby is smooth even when I took it up to 90 MPH..but just for a moment (smile) and the handling/tightness around corners for this vehicle size is awesome.
The body and paint which is a "greenish/blueish" color is in great condition and the doors and headliners and rug is in excellent almost brand new condition. The seats are worn but with not cracked beyond looking terrible.
This is a very classy looking car of which I am getting plenty of compliments on. It all goes well, I would like to maintain and upkeep for as long as it mechanically (engine/transmission) holds up.
Thanks again for your help and HAPPY NEW YEAR...
My driver's side window was rolled down part way
and it will not go back up. When I push the
button slightly to see if it will continue to go
down it does.
I removed the door panel and tinkered around.
I am stumped as to what the problem is.
Is it the "motor"
Is it the "switch"
Anxiously awaiting your reply.....Thanks....