By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
How do the window switches come out to swap them out with the back window switches.
Also how do you do the bypass.
I need this information and it is also informative to others. Thanks....
But that's the basic idea that you or your mechanic should pursue I think.
However, how do the "power windows" buttons on
the center console come out. Do you just pull
them out?
Thanks....
Does the same information above apply. Thanks..
It looks like it off to the (cleaners) oops
I mean Mercedes Benz repair shop for me
driver and passenger side windows. I need them
up - so that I can feel free driving somewhere.
Believe it or not! I went to a German Auto Repair Shop that specializes in Mercedes Benz's
and they are going to replace the switches (2)
at $26.00 a piece plus they will do an oil change
and check of all other fluids and all the brakes for $65.00.
If the switches are the problem, the shop said they will charge me only for the "switches" not any diagnostics charge since I kind of went into the shop, acting like I know what I am talking about (THANKS for YOUR Advice) (smile) plus I
left the door panel off in case they need to check in the door area. Thanks I will let you
know how all turns out..
Another thing these 300Ds like to do is break the aluminum window regulators...basically the motor is too powerful for the regulator frame. I've replaced them...four hands is better than two.
I think you are right about how the switches are wired. Only trouble I ever had was one day driving through 112 degree heat in the Nevada desert. I guess the transmission heat really stressed those console switches. But as soon as they cooled down, they've worked great ever since.
I drive a 300D-turbo diesel of 1992 model,it had 100k at the time of purchase,it now has 109k plus.
Recently I put the car in reverse,but the car would only reverse if press very hard on the accelerator,and then when you release the pedal it would stop suddenly as if you had stepped on the brake in an emergency ;although you had not stepped on the brake at all. Repair shop has changed valve body--but gears slipping when driving.They now say that a new trasmission is needed I have paid them $1500 for repairs.
Your advise would be deeply appreciated
alric1
Possible solution would be a good used transmission from a wreck. Also I don't see why you can't negotiate a discount from the shop that did all this work.
This is a tough spot for you to be in, but the car is certainly worth fixing up, and if you keep it another ten years, you can amortize the cost of the new transmission over ten years and it's not so bad.
If the rest of the car is banged up and tired, well then you might consider bailing out, but presuming it is a nice car, I don't see what else you can buy for the $2K-$3K repair you are going to have to make.
I can always count on Edmunds to have a discussion on any car! A friend wants to buy a 1984 300D sedan from a repair shop. Supposedly the owner walked away, and the shop owner is willing to "let it go" for $1500 which is what shelled out for a new engine. My friend wants to put another $1000 into painting it, new carpets, radio ...doing all the work himself. That brings it to $2500. How does that sound?
I just sold my 300D for $2,500 and it was clean as a whistle and ran beautifully. Wasn't easy to sell either at that price.
How much is "a bit more" for turbodiesel, if you can give me better idea?
My friend just bought a superb 300SD,1985, for $3,500. That's about top dollar UNLESS...unless...the miles are exceptionally low. Very low mileage 300SDs (under 100K) can go for a pretty strong price.
I'd still suggest your friend shop around first before he "jumps" on this car.
It goes like this, in order of best job to less best job:
new engine
rebuilt engine
overhauled / reconditioned engine
repaired/ fixed engine
used engine
steam cleaned and spray-painted engine
Oh, also what kind of a gas mileage you people are getting with SDs and SDLs?
Thank you,
Regarding repairs, the song and dance for these cars goes like this:
"Buy the best car you can afford"
In other words, don't buy a car with needs because it is "cheap". An old Benz is never cheap.
Pay special attention to the climate control system and reject any car that cannot give you hot heat and cold a/c.
A healthy diesel engine will start up RIGHT AWAY...if you have to crank it, something is amiss. Also, they should not smoke at idle---you might get a little smoke under very hard acceleration, that's okay--if it's a little.
SERVICE RECORDS are a must. Mystery car being sold by someone's "friend"...uh-uh, don't go for that. Find one that's been in a family and well-cared for.
You have to reject a lot of these cars at the price you are shopping. I'd say you are in marginal territory and you might want to kick in another $1,000 for a "cream puff".
Remember, if you screw up and buy a car that coughs up a major component, like an engine or transmission, you can just about throw the car away for what it will cost you, and just go buy another one for the same money as repairs.
So, to summarize:
1. Test everything EVERYTHING on the car thoroughly.
2. If you like the car, have a Benz shop check it out top to bottom (money well spent)
3. Do NOT pay a premium price for a high mileage car, or fall for the old "oh, these cars can go 1/2 million miles". Sure, if you treat them like gold and spend generously in maintennance. But high miles aren't automatically granted to every buyer!
I'd say reject any car over 250K, and pay wholesale only for any car at 150K-250K.
good luck---these are great cars but you don't want to start with a bad one.
( I saw a nice on for sale)..........
I found your post about switching to biodiesel. Very exciting! I'm looking to sell off my granny buick and buy a MB for biodiesel! Could you give me your opinion about a car I'm looking to purchase? I'm new at all this but I'm reading up on diesels/biodiesels like mad! I could use some expert advice.
http://portland.craigslist.org/car/33399542.html
Tanks!! Catey
1985 Benz – Diesel Turbo - 219k miles -->
This is the best year for the w123 diesels. This Benz has a really strong engine and is a great daily driver or touring car. It has been well maintained throughout its life including replacement of the dreaded trap oxidizer. I have full service records showing thousands of dollars in repairs. The local Benz masters at MBI on Hawthorne said it had exceptional cylinder compression which = long engine life. Runs great even in below freezing / high altitude. Also, unlike other diesel mercedes I've seen it doesn't smoke - another sign of good engine health.
Features
Alloy wheels – tires with 30-40k miles left
Power windows – all working
Working sunroof
Radio/tape deck
Heat blows strong / rear defroster works well
Power door locks
Automatic transmission - in great shape – shifts smooth
well documented repair/maintenance history
Minor issues
Needs new front shocks ($100 a side) – although its not that bad as is
Cruise Control works on and off – might need new switch
A/C – doesn’t blow cold – (when do they ever work?)
Needs radio antennae for maximum reception (motor works though)
Some small dents/scratches and a few tiny rust spots (no cancer)
Interior in great shape except driver seat has a few cracks and dash molding needs to be re-glued
No major issues – the car is very dependable and has been looked after nicely. I hate to see it go. I did my homeowork before purchasing it and I think its great but I don’t need two cars and I’m stuck in a lease with my other. I’d love to see someone grab this car for Biodiesel!
pictures at http://www.g-mg.com/mbz/index.html
Thanks!
I own a 1995 350sdl There is a inherent problem with this
Diesel Engine. At 51,000 miles I blew a head gasket Dealer Fixed it under warranty, but did not plane the head. Blue smoke started at low speed. At 107,000 miles repeat of same problem. My mechanic repaired it by planing the head and changing the head gasket which had a hole in it the size of a dime. If you are looking to buy a used Diesel with the S Body suggest you look for any of the older Cast Iron Engine Blocks.
This 1995 also develops an A/C evaporator leak which cost too much to fix. Putting this car on the market tomorrow has 120,000miles and a/c is only current problem
Len Long Island N.Y.
Running at such high compression ratios, cylinder head work on a diesel has to be done with utmost care.
The evaporator leak is a lot of labor to dig the thing out of there. That's why I always warn people buying used Benzes to be cautious of the seller's statement that "the a/c only needs a recharge".
I wonder how he knew the evaporator was leaking? Maybe you need another opinion on that if you really want to keep the car.
Well, where did the freon go?
I always figure if it "only" needed a charge it would have had it done already.
You have to be very careful with old German cars regarding the A/C reconditioning costs. They can sometimes equal the value of the car. You could blow $1,500 in a blink.
I like to advise people to ALWAYS, before they buy an old Benz, to ALWAYS play with all the A/C and heat switches and make certain all the heat/defroster/AC vents are doing what they are supposed to do. Switch back and forth between modes, and make sure the fan speeds are working, too.
But vacuum leaks in the SYSTEM can cause all kinds of problem and tracking down the leak isn't always easy. If you lose vacuum, you can lose your door locks, your heat/AC controls and worst of all, the diesel engine won't shut off!
These can be BUTCHERED by someone who doesn't know what he is doing.
I agree these are great cars, fantastic on the open road. They just require a loving touch.
If a person is unable or unwilling to do this, they should buy an Accord or a Camry.
I do have a few concerns about the 84 or 86 (it's a w123 chassis turbodiesel coupe) with 84k.
The first thing that concerns me is the automatic transmission which has to be tapped "past" the drive gear in order to engage. I once had a car that did this and the only problem was some gunk in the transmission fluid filter - easy 1/2 afternoon job.
My other concern is the ac/heating system. I enjoy sub-zero temperatures immediately and I wonder if the car's hesitance to deliver this is normal given the Benz's climate control system's reputation. Seems to me that dials and switches change with wild abandon, and air eventually flows.
Other "minor" electrical problems are present including power sunroof and power windows.
I'll soon be taking a look at the car once again in case any of you have specific questions.
The seller is a close friend of mine who thought his wife would like the car, which she does not.
The asking price is $ 3200.
Thanks!
Basically, a seller has to realize he cannot sell a car at full-on retail price AND have problems that aren't fixed. It's either one or the other. Fix the problems and sell at high retail or don't fix them and sell at wholesale. But you can't have it both ways.
As for the climate control, forget the concept of "sub-zero" in an old Benz AC system. They are good for maybe 90 degree heat and they will keep you comfortable. But in high temperatures in traffic, they are marginal at best and that's the best they can do.
They also leak and need recharging much more often than modern cars. Figure every two years to freshen them up. The climate control response time is also very lazy.
I'd say that if the cosmetics on this car are really great, and the climate control actually givews cold air and heat but perhaps not cold enough, and the rest of the car checks out mechanically, you might risk having to fix a few things and deduct maybe $500 off the price. $2,500-$2,700 seems plenty for an old diesel with potentially some expenses coming up. Keep in mind too, that unless the AC has been converted, you will have to pay for the more expensive R12 refrigerant.
I've got a 1982 300D. The heater/AC either sends out hot or cold, nothing in between. Even waiting 5 minutes for the temp to change.
I switched out the dashboard controls with no effect.
Any ideas?
Greenstork
Contact these people and ask them what they think.
http://www.mercedesshop.com/
I kind of hope it isn't that part, because it's expensive. But these guys have all sorts of good ideas.
My mechanic finally figured it out. It had an electrical problem.
Passenger side under coolant tank is the axillory water pump. Every time it started it fried the buttons on the dash board. $235.00 part.
Works perfect now.
Michael
It (the blower) was working until recently but the air wasn't being blown out where it should have been, it didn't seem to be blowing out at all like the air passages were closed off even though you could feel heat.
Should I be most suspicious of the temperature control regulator or the climate control unit (with the buttons and temp control wheel) or the blower motor itself?
I can hear a click when I try to operate the fan by pushing the defrost button which is kind a manual override I think. I also hooked a meter up to the power supply to the fan and pushed the button and it doesn't seem to be sending power to the fan.