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Acura MDX Maintenance and Repair



  • katewakatewa Posts: 24
    Sounds expensive. I wonder if it is covered under my warranty...
  • jcluvckjcluvck Posts: 2
    edited June 2010
    okay...we bought an acura certified pre-owned 07 mdx 2 months ago.
    It was pricey but bought it thinking it's a lux suv that would be safe for everyone including our son.
    And I had a tsx before and I really enjoyed the car.
    So I put my faith in Acura.

    2 weeks later while i was driving the car out of my drive way with my baby in the back, the car just COMPLETELY shuts down while I was on D.
    Luckily there weren't any cars on that street.
    I had to put it to P and restarted.
    The car started right away and I was able to drive away.
    Couple days later check engine light comes on.
    we brought it to the dealer and they replaced the sensor.
    I thought that would solve the problem.
    We took it back and the SAME problem occurs with the SAME code.
    It's been 2 months and we had to bring it back 5 times!!
    It has the same code is on everytime apparently...
    It has stalled in a parking lot while I was circling around to find parking.
    It has stalled on a busy street with tons of traffic!
    I am actually scared to go on highways now!!!
    I can't believe we paid that much to end up with a car with HUGE problems.
    The sales person almost said it's unbelievable that MDX is having this problem.
    I have to bring in the car again today because it stalled yesterday.
    I CANNOT believe this.
    What should i do now???
    Frankly I want my money back.
    I would NEVER buy an acura again.
  • katewakatewa Posts: 24
    edited June 2010
    Sorry to hear about the problem. I know how scary it can be to have a car stall out. I have an '06 and have never had any type of major/chronic problem. I know '07 was the first year of the new body style but I don't know that any of the mechanics changed.

    Have you called Acura Care to see if they might have a suggestion? Maybe the scope of the problem is beyond what this particular service department can trouble shoot.

    One thought I have is does the stalling seem to happen only at lower speeds?

    Acura is a great care - don't give up on them just because of one troublesome vehicle.
  • jcluvckjcluvck Posts: 2
    Thanks for your reply...

    The manger is looking at it himself and is trying hard.
    But it's a terrible feeling to have with your new car.
    I totally regret buying this.
    This was really expensive for us.

    And yes, this only happens at lower speeds.. do you know why?
  • katewakatewa Posts: 24
    No, I don't why it would only happen at lower speeds. I was just wondering because it is a clue. They really are good cars but I know that doesn't help you any at this point in time.

    In times past, I've had breakdowns, and one accelerator sticking, when my young children were in the car and it is frightening. (Thank goodness I don't have to srive junkers anymore, lol). It's hard to have a vehicle that you can't trust. Hopefully, they will find the problem and you won't have any further trouble.

    If it does keep happening, perhaps the car will fall into the "lemon law" category and you will be able to return it and get your money back.
  • qaliqali Toronto CanadaPosts: 60
    I found this article to replace the filter inside the glove box . Has anyone tried this and if so is this something I should only entrust the dealer to do? I am quite good at DYI jobs, but I would not want to start something that could mess up up the glovebox.
  • qaliqali Toronto CanadaPosts: 60
    Apologies if this has been covered in an earlier post. Do you recommend installing after-market brakes/rotors or should I stick to having this done by an Acura dealer using OEM equipment? If it is the former, any suggestions on good brake brands?
  • upstatedocupstatedoc Posts: 710
    Had all 4 rotors and pads replaced on our '04 at Monroe, around $1000. Brakes worked great! Don't know what they would've charged at Acura.
  • katewakatewa Posts: 24
    Well, I took my car to the local Honda dealer (nearest Acura dealer is about 180 miles away) and they found that a mouse had pulled some insulation loose and built a nest in the the cage (not sure what that is). They cleaned it out and only charged me about $45.
  • seerussseeruss Posts: 2
    I had a spot on my hood that started to bubble, and to me it looked like a clear coat failure. I took it to the body shop that handles one of the Honda dealership in my areas repair work, and in their opinion it was a patch job done incorrectly and the paint corroded. I bought the car new, and never had the hood re-painted or touched up. Of course when I took the car to the local Acura dealership (I bought it in another area), they claimed I got something on the hood that caused the issue. They brought out their district rep to inspect, and he concluded the same thing from a 2 second visual inspection. He was such an expert he didn't even know how to pop the hood.

    Anyone know on what my options are in this situation?
  • stinger3stinger3 Posts: 16
    I'd love an Audi but went with the MDX for reliability ratings. And we need the space that the MDX provides (two kids and lots of road trips). I have had such atrocious luck with two Volvos that I can not go back. But thanks for thinking of it. The MDX is great and the booming comes and goes. I will see how long my patience lasts.

    Best of luck in your Audi.
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Posts: 890
    I wonder if it could have been bird crap that sat on it too long? Very acidic and corrosive if you don't clean it off right away...otherwise, I wonder if it didn't incur damage at the original selling dealer and they did a poor job of repairing it? Would be impossible to prove if that's the case...
  • I realize that your posting is close to 5 years old but am nonetheless curious what you did to fix the sporadic A/C. Our MDX loses its A/C on really hot days. I suspect that it freezes and becomes dysfunctional. Any advice as to the fix is appreciated. Thanks!
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    edited July 2010
    Your symptoms sound a bit like this Civic problem someone posted in Answers yesterday. Moisture in the system can freeze and plug it up.

    Climate Control Problems (Air Conditioning, Heat) - All Cars may help too.
  • x5killerx5killer Posts: 368
    my rear gray bumper was already a little scratched up but recently got hit in a parking lot so I need to replace it. my body shop can get it i'm sure as they got my wife a new bumper on her acura when her parked car was hit in a parking lot by a commercial truck who paid for the new bumper.

    But I wonder if the body shop gets the bumper for one price and then charges the customer a little more i'm sure even for this seemingly mostly honest shop. Unless they have some in to cheap parts and actually pass that along to the customer I'm sure I could get it cheaper myself. seems to be cheaper then bernardi.acuraparts or curry.acuraparts

    anyone know of or order replacement parts (and/or accessories but actual parts are harder to find as many sites shops have the acccessories) from other shops/sites?

    for rear bumper there seems to be a bunch of different parts but you can get the main whole bumper which I'm assuming I need but hope I dont order more then I actually need. Here is a list of all the bumper parts front and back =26&productID=8&yearID=24&doorID=4&gradeID=120&areaID=1&transmissionID=2&originI- D=-1&colorLabelIDs=-1&colorLabelID=-1&sectionID=7&idAndImageID=4929%20227488&isB- igPicture=False

    so I'm guessing I need #2 on the list
    04715-STX-A91ZZ FACE, RR. BUMPER (DOT) CAN 1 $431.82 $318.68

    which is the whole rear bumper. I just hope that isn't more then I need. I guess I should wait and see what the body shop says and exactly what part I need which they be reluctant to tell me if they make part of their money on the part which be kind of dishonest though.

    hopefully they can tell me exactly what I need and exactly what they would charge me for the bumper part before labor so I can compare to what I can get the part for myself.
  • un_sidiqun_sidiq Posts: 31
    Got a quote of $188 for B13 service; (dealership)
    1- Oil Change and tire rotation ($34.95 + $28)
    2- Transmission and rear differential flush and fill. ($115)

    I am skipping the inspection part as i can do it on my own, and also holding off on break fluid flush and fill for a couple of months (Almost 3 years old).
    Called up Honda dealer ship and the price is almost the same.

    Is that around what other folks are paying, should i try to go to some other generic shop ?
  • un_sidiqun_sidiq Posts: 31
    For 05 you will need to open some screws, i have on 08 and the glove box just drops down, you pull out the filter and put the new one, no need to go to the dealer for this. The only thing to watch out for is when you drop the glove box make sure you dont let it drop all the way and give some support with your hand as there is a vacum rod in the back that can come of (it can be put back in just takes a few minutes extra).
  • amdx09amdx09 Posts: 2
    Can you tell me what area you are in? I'm looking for similar service, I need B16. I haven't shop around yet.
  • un_sidiqun_sidiq Posts: 31
    I am in Dallas, going to the dealer in Plano, i was also able to use a 15% off coupon that i found at another dealer's site, so the total would be a little less.
    Seems like Acura dealers will accept coupon as long as it is from another Acura dealer.
  • un_sidiqun_sidiq Posts: 31
    Small correction, it's not rear differential fluid, it's transmission and transfer fluid that is $114.95 (service item # 3)
  • amdx09amdx09 Posts: 2
    Thanks, I guess I'll call around and see if the deal will match the lower ones. I saw your old post for B16, so I have some idea for the price range now.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    that looks like the part but when you bring that to a body shop don't be surprised if they will paint it and install it but might refuse to warranty their work. They might not object, but they might. Given that it is a genuine factory part, you're probably okay, but if there's something missing, or the wrong fit, wrong part, damaged in shipping, etc., this is going to be your problem, since you ordered it.

    Personally, I don't see this as worth the trouble. If the body shop marks up the part 10%, that's maybe $40 bucks.
  • So here is an update, i also noticed excessive hood movement when on the highway and also notified the dealer ship about that.
    Just got a call from the dealership, the MDX only has around 38k miles.
    1- The hood needs repair as i was not imagining and there is excessive ply.
    2- One of the axle is leaking and needs replacement (still under warranty)
    3- Whistling sound from the window at highway speed (i complained about it and it's getting fixed under warranty)
    4- Dealer said that the tires that the vehicle comes with (Michelin) are not the best, as i had noticed steering vibration that felt like balancing issue. Looks like will need new tires soon as tread has already worn out.

    Any suggestions on what tires to get ?
    I had bought extended warranty though dont' this stuff like axle will be covered.

    Over all not very pleased with the MDX.
  • 2007 MDX starts vibrating at 65 mph, new set of tires didn't help. Definitely coming from the front, I assume it's the suspension and not the wheels. Acura service rep dismissed the problem by stating - Oh, we can't recreate the problem because we can't drive at that speed for fear of getting a ticket! And that's after dropping 1K for a new set of tires, at $45k a pop I'd expect a near damn perfection. Can't imagine a BMW dealer insulting his customer like this... Is this a safety issue? I understand most drivers of this car are soccer moms who only drive at that speed in the Nordstrom's parking lot, so they don't complain about this issue.
  • I had the same problem. After 3 dealerships and the run around, it turned out to be bad rotors. I ended up having to get corporate involved as none of the dealerships could find the problem and kept blowing me off.

    The rotors they used on the 2007 are no longer being installed.
  • 10sfan10sfan Posts: 136
    At what mileage did you have to replace the rotors and brakes? I have 45,000 of mostly highway miles now and was advised to consider replacing brakes and rotors.
  • I replaced mine at 50k but only to seriously upgrade system, not for regular maintenance. Used Hawk HPS pads and upgraded rotors. Night and day difference. Also replaced tires with Grand Touring M+S - dropping the truck tires that came on the MDX. Much better cornering and braking, especially in the wet. Works just fine in Snow, also.
  • "I have 45,000 of mostly highway miles now and was advised to consider replacing brakes and rotors. "

    Brakes and rotors that were an inadequate design for this vehicle unfortunately. I replaced allthe way around between 40-50k miles at a cost of $1000.

    BTW, the brakes on our '07 are light years ahead of the '04's
  • tunlotunlo Posts: 7
    Battery problem?.... suggest anyone using a factory battery replace with a gel battery. Battery came with with MDX is a joke. I purchased a 07 MDX back in 06(November) and decided to take a long road trip(winter) from new york to Canada. having driven half way there i stopped on a rest stop to get some snooooze; engine turned off but left the radio on for like a hour or so. woke up and found the darn MDX couldn't start and realized the battery have just gone KAPUT. finally i was rescued by a good samaritan driving a MB AMG. i was like why you want to trade my car for your car? Enuf BS... after driving back to NY the battery would die everytime if i turned off the engine for 10 minutes or so with light or radio on. I had to flag other cars for jump start couple of times. after 5th or 6th times i decided to crash myself into auto parts store and get myself a gel battery. Ever since the is replaced, I have not have any problem with battery dying every so often even if i have the card turned off and/or lights on.

    Clicking sound when steering either direction.... OH BOY I'm having this problem and is becoming ANNOYing! I've been to the service center complaining bout' the noise for at least 10 times. They have changed front CV joints and even replaced both rear structs(which I'm glad they did cuz if they don't they cost at least $1500 for one) and still the clicking noise is there. It is most noticeable on a stop and make turn gradually to either direction. Noise can be most noticeable during parking reversing into a spot. I just took my car back to the dealer and now they claim noise is coming from the front left struct. They are in progress ordering the part and should be in sometime this week. I'll let you all know if that kills the clicking sound.

    P.S.: Sometimes I wonder if I should have just trade the car to a German Dealer and get myself a X6.
  • tunlotunlo Posts: 7
    Did your dealer replace you a set of tires free of charge? I know one of my rim is slightly bent but i hessitate to shell out near $500 for a brand new one. Anyone in this forum awared if dealer will replace your rim(s) if still under warranty? Wheel vibrate at high speed on the highway.... aside from changing your tires.. you might want them to check your RIMs. One or more rim(s) bent might give you vibrating... not just wheels not being balanced.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "..clicking sound when turning either direction..."

    What you seem to be describing is common to a 4WD system that uses a locked center differential which is inadvertently left engaged on a tractive surface. So that clicking sound CAN be the result of the SH-AWD system keeping the rear drive too tightly engaged during tight and/or low speed turns.

    A R/awd system, base REAR drive vehicle, would NEVER have the front drive engaged while turning turning tightly, high lateral loads on the front wheels, But a F/awd system such as the SH-AWD system absolutely MUST keep the rear drive engaged while turning. Otherwise the combined stress on the front wheels' traction coefficient due to having to support drive torque, FULL drive torque, along with HIGH lateral forces might very well result in loss of traction altogether.

    Pull the fuse(s) for the SH-AWD system while the ignition is off and see if the clicking sound remains.

    The early MDX's with the VTM-4 F/awd system had premature transaxle failures for this very reason, both front and rear drive torque applied simultaneously simply resulted in to much stress, driveline windup and/or tire scrubbing, and that resulted in failure of the weakest link, the transaxles.
  • QUICK - have your torque converter checked before your warranty is up. I had exact problems, they told me to replace the original tires, new balance, new alignment ($2000). Fast forward 2 weeks - I drove a stick shift for many years & could feel the "tug & shake" of improper shifting ... had the technician go for a 40min drive with me ON HIGHWAY where the car could heat up & really experience its issues. The converter is being replaced & they told me that I'd have to replace 2 front brake routers on my own ... going to ask corporate to pay for that too ... after reading this blog.
  • Same! grinding right after speed bump... tried with brake, tried w/ gas, tried neutral - all the same. Have had my 07 T&E 48k into the shop more times than I'd like since Nov06 purchase. Had technician drive it over bumps, but he couldn't recreate. Put 4 new tires on balance, alignment ... one month later shuddering, gears seem off, smells funny ... they are replacing my torque converter and hopefully, full transmission. I've also had trouble with one of the doors unlocking, the battery dying very quickly when engine is off / radio on, and the back seat getting "stuck" in the down position. Bought Acura for its reliability, but definitely questioning my purchase.
  • tunlotunlo Posts: 7
    ok... just got my car back 2 days ago after dealer replaced front left struct with them indicating internal struct damage. Took the car for a drive and indeed drives like new with new struct over bumps. But sadly the darn clicking sound still lurks when turning But not as loud as before. Will need to put the car back to the dealer for Another Check. my 07 have 37K+ on it.... warranty almost run out.

    What would pulling fuse(s) off for SH-AWD do?

    I'm like thinking could there be something lose around the axles when turning something is in the way or rubbing against it causing the stupid clicking sound?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    edited October 2010
    What would pulling the SH-AWD system fuse do..??

    Lower the stress on the drive train, the ENTIRE drive train. When your SH-AWD system pre-emptively engages the rear drive on a tractive surface that often results in a rather serious level of driveline windup and/or tire scrubbing, most especailly so in a low speed turn, tight turn or accelerating turn even moreso.

    IMMHO what is most needed for the SH-AWD system, or ANY pre-emptive F/awd system, is the ability of the driver to enable (not "engage") it ONLY in known or suspected low traction conditions. It could also be made reactive, activating ONLY with actual wheelspin/slip and the following 2-3 minutes, in order to cover instances of which the driver might not be aware in advance.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    "..darn clicking sound.."

    We're not, I hope, talking about the clicking sound at/within the stearing wheel resulting from the turn signal cancel mechanism.?

    "Replaced the left front strut.."
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    " is most noticeable on a stop and make turn gradually..."

    Low speed acceleration, and/or acceleration into a turn, will ALWAYS result in the SH-AWD system engaging, PRE-EMPTIVELY engaging, the rear drive. That, in turn, should the tire contact surface be reasonably tractive, will end up putting a LOT of undue stress on the ENTIRE drive train.

    So your clicking noise could be coming from any point in that STRESSED drive train.

    Your SH-AWD system is, at base, a simple FWD system. Therefore since loss of traction on the front wheels is such a HUGE threat to safety the TC system is tuned to be HYPER-ACTIVE, absolute INSTANT activation at even the slighest hind or indication of a loss of traction event.

    Are you by any chance in the habit of even moderately accelerating into, out of, a turn..?

    Accelerating into a turn, a tight turn especially, on a low traction, WET, surface might result in a period of brief wheelspin/slip, thereby activating TC, Traction Control, engine dethrottling and the "clicking" from pulsating front brake application.

    "over bumps"

    Wheelspin/slip very often occurs in that situation and that brings TC into play if no braking is involved.

    "over bumps while (lightly) braking"

    Brief wheelspin/slip often results from loss of traction due to tire rebound and that results in brief, one "click" ABS activation.
  • tunlotunlo Posts: 7
    thanx for the info wwest. Being not a car fanatic so much so not a drive train expert your explanation do sound on par with your reasoning. At a stop prep for a turn I usually take off(not gradually) into the turn unless there's obstruction. It is on a gradual acceleration into a turn the click sound appears. Might be what you explained FWD losses traction and RWD kicks in putting stress on the ENTIRE drive train.

    If my front wheel losses traction and my car is 4 yrs old, tires may be thinning out on the thread. Can replacing tires solve the problem? or could it be sth with the drive train itself?

    when I parallel parked into a space and adjust the car more to the curb by turn left and right, on reverse i would hear clicks too. Does that also mean stress is transferred to the drive training causing TC system to come on in turn activating the ABS?

    I didn't get a chance to really pull out the SH-AWD fuses to see click sound disappear. I will try it this weekend and will post my findings afterward.

    If clicking sound would be appeared normal (ABS activation) from stresses on drive train what can be done to cure it? There wasn't any clicking ever since I purchased the car until the last 6-months or so.
  • tunlotunlo Posts: 7
    well... sometimes i turn without turning on turn signal and clicking still comes on.
  • tunlotunlo Posts: 7
    Get a Gel Battery... that will SOLVE your BATTERY DYING Problem!
  • tunlotunlo Posts: 7
    Finally.... Clicking grinding noise fixed. Took my car to the shop for all the fingers I can count. Dealer have changed both rear structs, front left struct, cv joints... All the didn't fix my problems until recent they found internal damage on my front left axle. After the replacement the damn sound is gone and the car drives much better. Took at least two months to find the culprit of my problem. Like I said before I'm glad they replaced most of my structs before my warranty runs out in 2000 miles.
  • The stock Michelin latitude on 08 MDX need to be replaced.
    I got multiple quotes all in the rnage of ~$1240.
    I read some good reviews about nitto nt420S tires including one MDX owner.
    Got discount tire to match the price quoted by, ~$600 out the door (no tire protection warranty).
    Given nitto's are almost 50% of Michelin was wondering if anyone else has tried the tires out and what the experience was.
    Really leaning towards trying them out though any feedback would be great.
  • Not sure if this will help...I have an 03 MDX and switched to Yokohama Geolanders. They're great rides and very quiet.
  • Thank You, it does help to know these tires are also a option. I checked the price and still around $450 cheaper than Michelin.
  • I put the nitto 420s on my wife's '07 MDX.
    (compared to the oem Michelin's)

    better wet & dry traction have not driven them in the snow yet, a little more road noise in the cabin, we had vibration & balance issues with the michelins the dealer replaced all 4 michelin tires because they could not road force balance them within spec. so far no vibration issues with the nitto. I had them road force balanced & the mechanic made it a point to tell me that they balanced very nicely. Which says alot for the quality of manufacturing of the tires

    My vote is for the nitto. Great tire for the money.
  • Thanks for the feedback bloomy63. 2 of my Michelin tires got damaged on the side wall a year after (within a period of 3 months) we bought the MDX, had to shell out over $500 to replace them (road hazard expires after 1 year).
    Since then we have been having the vibration issue also.
    I guess i will be going with Nitto even if there is little more noise, specially since the total price is half of Michelin's.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Did you check the owner's manual regarding buying/replacing anything less than all 4 tires simultaneously..?

    I suspect it will say those new tires should go on the rear ONLY.

    Anything else and you may have been over-stressing your F/awd driveline components.
  • Actually i didnt' and the dealer did not mention anything either. Both replacement tires were bought from the dealer.
    My rear tires are a little more worn out than the front ones at this point (dealer kept on rotating them and was aware of the fact i had 2 newer tires).
    At this point i will be replacing all four in a couple of weeks anyways.
    Thanks for the pointer though i will check the manual also.
    I will let folks know of my experience with Nitto in case others are interested.
  • Just got the Nitto's installed. Total out the door $672 (didn't buy the $92 road hazard warranty).
    First impression in positive. I didn't feel much difference between the Michelin and Nittos. Probably a 10%-15% more road noise though not bothersome at all and hardly noticeable.
    For ~$600 less than Michelin i think they are very well worth it.
  • I bought my MDX one month ago; I found out after two weeks that there was a bump at the back of the ceiling. when I brought back to the deal, they refused to repair and told me that was not under warranty; I should find it out when receiving the car. They said I must pressure it and make the bump (I told them that I found out when I was trying to installing a dog screen: pressure the bottom and top)- but the fact is that it was there before I did anything. Is there a way I can make them repair this? Thanks.
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