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Acura MDX Maintenance and Repair

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Comments

  • I have a 2008. vibration starts around 60mph. worse at 70 to 75. swerve left at 75 and vibration goes away, swerve right at 75mph and it is more pronounced. dealer said replace left wheel and wheel bearing. replaced wheel bearing on left side and rebalanced wheels (walmart said wheel looked fine to them)...vibration still there...rotated wheels, vibration still there. please help
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Front CV joints.
  • Where can u buy axles. Parts stores don't carry
  • Not sure if gas pedal will vibrate due to axle, do you hear a clicking sound from the front when you turn left or right ? though i am not an expert
    Here are some sites for parts
    http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/
    http://www.partsgeek.com/
    http://www.partstrain.com/
  • matth2matth2 Posts: 12
    My wife was rear ended on Sat. Whole bumper, left muffler, tailgate and left D pillar are damaged. I want OEM parts and done close to factory as possible. Can't imagine what ins adjuster is going to nickel and dime me for. I want some good advice as I enter this lousy situation.

    thanks in advance
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Posts: 890
    You have the right to take it to the shop of your choice. In getting bids from reputable shops (do your homework if you don't already know) insist that you want OEM parts. Then decide which one you are most comfortable with and insist with the adjuster that's who you want to use. Good luck.
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    The Questions About Auto Insurance & Accidents discussion may be helpful too.
  • pony5pony5 Posts: 1
    After spending several grand for a rebuilt transmission that I did not need, I finally solved the metal scratching noise that was the source of the 40MPH problem. It was the coupling on the mid section of the driveline. Somehow, the metal bearing in the collar wore out and was the source of the unpleasant noise. The replacement required the changing of the whole driveshaft, so there goes more money for repair. What an expensive repair.
  • Have similar 07 MDX w/sp with 33k on odometer. It drives so smooth and quiet at 90-95 mph that I don't realize I am driving that speed.
  • Have 2008 MDX with Tech pckg and grinding always occurs when speeding up just after speed bump since car was new. It seems related to being in sports mode as less likely to occur if in comfort. Definitely related to driving too fast coming off the bump. Mechanic had hard time hearing it until I took him over the bumps on my street. Recommended I drive slower over the bumps. I change to comfort mode; mechanic claims everything is fine.
  • Have 08 MDX with 32k on odometer. Took it to dealer for oil change (A1 service message). Dealer wanted to service differential, transfer case and exchange brake fluid. alone with service D (replacing transmission fluid, coolant flush, change engine and cabin filter as well as the air pollution filter). All I can find in owners manual was to have brake fluid changed after 3 yrs. No mention about changing all the other fluids except under unusual circumstances that I do not have. I told him no; just change the oil. Felt I was being had. Anyone with similar experience.
  • If this happens on bumps with sharp edges...like steel plates on roads then there is a TSB out on this issue.
    Do the web search you might be able to find the TSB number...I will see if I can find it and will post it if I can find the number
  • jensadjensad Posts: 388
    Yes indeed. I have a 08 RL and at 30k I took it in for changing transmission oil and do their "free check". They "recommended" doing exactly what you posted. I told them to do the work they were supposed to do i.e. tranny oil change.

    I always read ahead in my service book of the service requirements at the milleage intervals i.e. 30k, 36, ect....

    Oh what happened with my little service job was that when I now come in for the requiste service, they do it and have not so far again tried their "recomendations for those other services.

    Good luck to all and stay safe.

    jensad
  • Have U done your scheduled maintenance intervals. If U did , those things would have been done at the scheduled maintenance. I missed my schedule and the collant became clogged. I had to have it flushed at the dealer. Luckily, they didn't make me purchase a new radiator.

    I have a problem with my 01 heater, The fuse blows out every 2 days. I took it to the dealer and they change the soilnoid and the the blower. 2 days later the fuse blew again. Anyone had this problem ? any solutions. Tomorrow I'm returning the suv to the dealer. They changed those 2 things 3 days ago. I paid $800.00 for that service
  • The maintenance manual states that the computer will tell you when they need to be done except that the brake fluid should be replaced every 3 yrs. The computer notified me of the oil change which is what I requested. Service stated that I should change the differential fluid, transaxle fluid, transmission fluid, etc. Could find no reference to changing these in the manuals so I thought that I would post this question here.
  • jensadjensad Posts: 388
    You are right Pete as to getting the services done on time. I read the manual and check off what is to be done, then after the dealer does the services they still do the check list of things that might need work.

    I usually do the easy stuff eg replace air filter, inside car filter ect and let them do the differential/oil stuff. I used to do the oil etc but I am tired of getting under the vehicle and doing it myself. I also have a 100k warranty i purchased when I got the 08 RL. (I have read these web sites over the years and checked out what went wrong before I got the RL.

    Our Honda Pilot is the junior of the mdx. So if the mdx has issues then our pilot may also but I made an inference that the RL too might have issues so I got the 100k just in case.

    Love my 08 RL, my wife has an 06 Pilot, with (honest) 35k on the speedo ni issues yet. And we keep our vehicles and get our $$ worth. And the "scheduled maintenance" makes her feel better and has kept us out of the shop at least so far. :)

    Good luck to all and take care during this hard winter.

    jensad
  • Hello,
    a couple of questions before I replace break pads on my MDX. I am not sure whether to replace them or not; during last maintenance the dealer mentioned that the front pads are "getting low"...

    - Is it possible to measure break pad thickness without removing wheels? There are numerous how-to videos on Youtube, including the one where a set of hex-keys is used to see which one will slide under the caliper so that key size is your remaining break pad thickness.... Does it make sense?

    -The dealer said that they would charge $40 dollars to measure break pads wear, on top of the usual tire rotation. So - is there extra work involved in measuring break pads even after wheels are removed, or it's just a hint to change break pads?

    Thanks!
  • jensadjensad Posts: 388
    Recently I had my aura rl serviced i.e. change oil in tranny and read end. They do without cost a 52 point inspection, (it helps them get more business) and they informed me that my brake shoes had 7 mm left which is great on my 48k miles we have logs on our 08 rl.

    Point here is it sounds to me that the dealer you are working with wants to take you to the cleaners by the $ 40 charge. (JMO) That sounds to me like "gravy money" for the dealer.

    We live in No. Cal. and competition for the consumer's business is alive and well. :) I think if you would check out your area you may find a delaer that will not charge for inspecting you brake shoes.

    Good luck to all and have wonderful day.

    jensad
  • qaliqali Toronto CanadaPosts: 60
    2005 MDX Touring. I have noticed that the interior auto-dimming mirror is not functioning the way it should. Even thought the green light turns on after I push in the button for the auto-dimming function, the glare does not seem to be reduced. Any ideas on what may be going on? Does the mirror have a battery that needs to be replaced?

    Thanks in advance.
  • stantonb1stantonb1 Posts: 51
    My children have a 2010 MDX and have been experiencing a problem opening the driver's side door with the door handle. The dealer has replaced the door handle and the problem persists with the new handle. The door is definitely in the unlocked position and the door handle does not open the door. Has anyone else experienced a similar problem? The door handles on the other doors particularly the passenger door sometimes present problems with opening too. The doors are definitely in the unlocked position, the door handles simply do not function.
  • pete2815pete2815 Posts: 20
    Never had a problem with any of my door locks/handles in any of the 3 MDXs that I have owned including my current 2007 model.
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Posts: 890
    Have experienced no problems with the door handles on my 2010. One thing I have (slowly) gotten used to is that transmission needs to be in "Park" before the doors will open - this wasn't the case on my previous vehicle, an Infiniti FX45.

    I would recommend that your children persist until the dealer is able to diagnose and fix the problem under warranty.
  • pete2815pete2815 Posts: 20
    On my 2007 MDX, the door locks are programmable; the instructions are in the owner's manual.
  • kdiaskdias Posts: 8
    I missed the start of this conversation. I seem to be having a similar issue. When I take a left or right hand turn from a stop, I hear a rattling noise very briefly. I typicallly have to gas it hard for this to occur and it usually occurs after the car has been parked over night or after the work day. Dealer says they could not find anythig wrong. My sense is thhat there is a lag in the SH-AWD and that a coupling may be the issue. can you provide me more details on your situation? Thanks
  • JBaumgartJBaumgart Posts: 890
    Thanks, Pete, I'm going to have a look at the owners manual and see if I can change the lock operation.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Hard/tight turn or accelerating shallow turn is exactly when SH-AWD would be shifting engine torque, MORE engine torque, to the rear and then thereby to the rear right or left.

    "..rattling noise.."

    Like "ABS" " rattle..?

    If so, that's also EXACTLY one of the times or conditions under which VSC is most likely to activate due to slight (to short/slight to be detectable via your seat of the pants sensor) plowing or skidding.

    If it persists to the point of making you uncomfortable have the dealer service check the 2 sensors unique to VSC.
  • kdiaskdias Posts: 8
    Willard

    Thanks. That is what the dealer suspects is the cause of the rattling, engagement of the VSA. However, they have not been able to duplicate the noise, so my car sits on their lot while I drive a nice new loaner MDX.

    Keith
  • rd082298rd082298 Posts: 13
    At 96K I received the 100K service (timing belt, waterpump, plugs, fluids the whole 9 yards). I paid like $1,500 for the service which took the dealer 3 business days to complete. Afterwards I could smell radiator fluid burning on the engine and had a reverburation in the engine after driving for 15 miles or so. I took it back to the dealer they power sprayed the engine blaming the smell on road grime - yeah right:>) They could not replicate the reverburation in the engine but told me to come back if it happened again, I did and they said most likelly its bad exhaust or motor mounts. I said no way this didn't start until after the 100K service. I left, came back a different day when it was making the "sound". One of the techs diagnosed air in the power steering. They took it back and no more noise since. Fast forward about 5000 miles I'm, now driving home from work and my check oil light goes on. I stop the car check the oil its not even on the stick. I put 2.0 quarts in just to get it barely above the low line and take it to the dealer. The dealer changes the oil and has me test it to see when it goes down a quart so they can diagnose the issue - because they can not find leaks. Its not leaking in my garage at all. Ok its now down a quart at 2,600 miles, I put a quart in. Its down another quart after another 900 miles. I can't believe this. I have always done all mainetance at this dealer and have always done all maintenance at required intervals. I had always checked the oil level after fueling and the oil was never down before the 100K service. Thoughts on what is happening here and what I should do?
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Sure, your timing belt is miss-timed...
  • progerproger Posts: 44
    edited May 2011
    My service advisor recommended replacing my ENGINE MOUNTS on my MDX '04 while it was having State Inspection (Life time Free Inspection). Estimated cost would be around $750.00 for the front and side mounts, which I had refused. My MDX has only 81,000 miles in it and when I visually inspected, there was nothing wrong, and engine vibration is quite normal as when it was new. My advisor said that engine mounts need to be replaced at around 80,000 miles. This is very unusual, are there any issues about this matter out there? Your advise or comment is greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Mounts aren't a maintenance item. Either they are oil-soaked, cracked and spongy, and/or their brackets are broken or cracked, or they last the life of the car.
  • rd082298rd082298 Posts: 13
    I'm not a mechanic so can you please tell me why that would cause oil burning? Can this be corrected and will there likely be permanent damage to the engine?

    Thanks!
  • pete2815pete2815 Posts: 20
    Can't answer your question. I also have a 2007 MDX with 34K miles but no problems with oil burning. Did this just start or always been a problem? More info may help others help you.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    edited May 2011
    Oil burning can occur from lots of causes, such as worn piston rings, worn valve guides, worn valve stem seals and....even a malfunctioning PCV system (which might be something for you to have checked---that Positive Crankcase Ventilation system).

    If the engine's crankcase cannot "breathe", combustion gases build up in there and force oil into the combustion chamber.
  • rd082298rd082298 Posts: 13
    The engine never burned oil up until the 100K service it started right after that.
  • rd082298rd082298 Posts: 13
    Is that something that normally gets changed at the 100K service? I went back and looked at my invoice that was not changed. They did however change the ERG Valve.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Nah, I don't think that's it.
  • rd082298rd082298 Posts: 13
    Here is an update for all MDX owners.

    The dealership has had my vehicle since last Tuesday. They performed a compression and drip down down test. They have determined that there is a loss of compression in one of the cylinders. They have also said that it is just a coincidence that it occurred just after the 100K service. They are working with Acura to get authorization to look inside the engine to confirm what is causing the problem. I still do not know if this will be a covered repair although the service manager beleives they will cover it. I'm a bit nervous now to say the least. Depending on how Acura handles this will determine if I buy my third new MDX.....
  • rd082298rd082298 Posts: 13
    Its hard to believe but the dealership has now had my MDX for almost 3 weeks. They have been working with Acura to get authorization to open the engine up. Today they tore it open and it is laying in pieces. Next they need to get authorization to repair it. I was told that if they get authorization they "might" have it done by next week Tuesday. I can not believe it takes this long to cut through all the red tape. Also I still don't know who is paying for the new short block and all the labor. I have made it clear that there will be no future purchase of my third MDX if this doesn't get resolved to my satisfaction. The service manager has tried to allay my concerns but until its over I'm on edge.
  • pete2815pete2815 Posts: 20
    Please keep posting updates.
  • rd082298rd082298 Posts: 13
    I stopped in at the dealer today because they wanted their loaner back so they could repair some hail damage on it. Through the glass service door I could see my MDX up on the rack. The engine was laying on the floor with the pistons exposed. I asked the service manager if I could have a look and he said sure. The tech pointed to the cylinder that was losing the most compression and it was in the center. He showed me the other cylinders as well. I couldn't beleive what I was seeing. The cylinder walls on some of the other pistons looked like somebody had etched them in a "lightning" pattern in various areas. I couldn't even see the worst "bad" cylinder because the piston was in the "up" position. The tech said maybe it was a manufacturing defect or the prescribed Acura service intervals being too long. He said he uses synthetic oil in his MDX and changes the oil every 3500 miles NOT the 7000 or so in the manual. Either way it needs a new short block. They are still waiting for Acura to authorize this. Frustrating......
  • rd082298rd082298 Posts: 13
    Today I received a call from the dealership service rep. He asked me to give Acura client services a call today to try to get them moving on this issue. My MDX is still in the shop with the engine on the floor in disrepair. The dealer rep said they have exhausted all efforst in trying to get Acura to authorize a repair. Acura hasn't responded to them at all. So I called Acura client services today and spent about 40 minutes on and off hold with a client service rep. He asked me to go though the entire history of the situation with him. He then consulted with his supervisor who assigned a case number to the issue. Now a district manger has it and will get back to me in a couple of days. They asked if I had been told how much this would cost! I told him the dealer assured me that Acura would "likely" cover this and of course the Acura rep said this is NOT normally a covered repair but that I should wait patiently :lemon: to see how it all plays out. After 4 weeks of this I'm running out of patience. My next trip to a dealership may be to a Milwaukee Lexus dealer for a new RX if this doesn't get resolved to my satisfacton. I will not give the Acura/Lexus Appleton, WI dealer or Acura any more business if they epic fail this one. :mad:
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    Has it not yet occurred to you that this episode might well be a dealer con..?
  • rd082298rd082298 Posts: 13
    Not sure what you mean by a dealer con? The vehicle is definetly burning oil I have seen that for myself.
  • wwestwwest Posts: 10,706
    The dealer has torn down your engine, now what are YOUR choices..?
  • rd082298rd082298 Posts: 13
    Ether they fix or they can put it back together and I will dump it for something not from Bergstom Automotive. Definetely not an Acura.
  • qaliqali Toronto CanadaPosts: 60
    Seems like your dealer screwed up during the 100K service. It appears they damaged some engine components and are now trying to lay the blame with Acura. I find it hard to believe that the compression on one of the cylinders is now the culprit and they never discovered this during the past 4 years.

    I would not rule out Acura as a brand for replacement but would certainly look to another dealer. I have a 2005 MDX which has 130K and runs beautifully. Of course normal wear/tear happens but most electronics/components work fine. Except for transmission problems, Honda has made very reliable cars/trucks.

    My 0.02 and good luck.
  • topofftopoff Posts: 19
    I have an '07 - interested in type of oil - brand and weight - frequency of oil change. Thanks
  • steverstever Posts: 52,462
    Sounds like a waste of oil.

    The scheduled interval for the '07 MDX is 7,500 miles. Afaik, that's with using "dead dino."

    I'm on the same interval (or worse :blush: ) with my minivan and it just rolled over 156,000 miles.

    Stop Changing Your Oil
  • rd082298rd082298 Posts: 13
    I think that is exactly what happened but I don't think there is anyway that a John Bergstrom dealership will ever admit that. They probably think they have me over a barrel but at John Paul Jones once said "I have not yet begun to fight" or something like that. :)
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