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Comments
Thanks.
I sent emails to all of the Bay Area dealers and its nice to read that others are not standing for the sticker price and are doing so good.
Since Serramonte was mentioned, I purchasd my RL at Concord Acura. My bride of 45 years and I wore them out saying "no, no, lower the price". And I will contact them first next time I purchase another Acura. (It should be easier the next time around, but not until I get over 100k on what I drive now.
Good luck to all and stay safe.
jensad
Dealer we purchased the vehichle : Courtesy Acura, Lexington , KY
Acura Sales Director : Mike Edmondson
Thanks every one who all posted here on their experience, it really helped us to do the negotiation.
Any experience on 2010 lease rates for the MDX?
1. I emailed all the dealers in the Bay Area Ca.re: what I wanted and the price.
2. The "suggested price" was about 52000 for the 08 RLwith tech.
3. I then went to Consumer Reports for the $ 20 car report and found that they dealer cost was about 41000.
4. An old friend who was the manager at a BMW dealership told me that at their bmw dealership they work with about 15-22 % over cost.
5. I got emails back and dealers were bidding about 43-45 K. I said no.
6. About 3 days after emailing the dealers I received a phone call from my local dealer who asked if I purchased an RL yet? I said no, he gave me a price and I told him the price was too high. ( The key thing that helps here is that I informed him that I had offers down to 43K.)
7. He said he would do 42500, and I said I would be down with my wife but my trade in would be according to blue book for my car.8. Long story short, they tried to low ball me on the trade in, my wife and got up and started to leave. they changed their tune and gave me what I wanted, i.e. $ 42500 plus tax.
Before I went to the dealer I calculated the price using my old bmw friend, i.e. at 18 % off sticker. I DIDNOt try to gauge them, as I know they have a hold back of about 2k. (Not sure but I think it was close) and they made a small profit and we made an excellent savings.
My bmw friend told me that the service stuff makes the$$ to break even and the sales makes the extra profit.
The dealer was Concord Acura. I have taken my rl to them for the services and I have developed an honest friendships with the managers/staff because if my bride of 45years wants to buy a mdx next year I will first go to Concord Acura, and if I have to, I will play the game again.
Biggie,: they will always try to wear you down. Psychologically, you will maybe angry, anxious ect..and they expect you to give in. DON'T. Just play the game and someone will give you the price you expect.
Sorry if I rambled and I did not offend anyone.
Good luck to all and stay safe.
I am looking to buy MDX in Seattle area.
Are you interested in buying it with me together, so that we can get a better deal?
Please send me email at hakjoon@hotmail.com
Thanks.
Justin
No dealer will offer you this price. The quote I was offered was 44.4K but I got it the price down 41.9K
You will have to shop around and go beyond your county as well to get the price you are looking for. I did exactly that. Also, I negotiated over email until the price was what I wanted. I did not reveal wether I will finance, lease or buy on cash, neither did I tell them exactly what color I need until the deal was final
Be patient there are a lot of cars out there but they will try to have you make a rush decision. The first dealer I talked to did not even quote me his exact price and said that my price is ridiculously low and that I was not serious in buying, but then called me twice later
Good Luck !
I've seen others buy at lower price, but I think the price I paid is not too bad.
Good luck
Good luck to all and safe Memorial Day week end.
jensad
I have looked everywhere on TrueCar and can't find it.
Did you get 42769 or 42679?
$40,100 +TTL.
Plus took advantage of 3 year 0.9% finance.
Included wheel locks for that price.
Had competing prices from two other SoCal dealers - but this guy was closer, had color choices I wanted and has a good reputation for honesty (Valencia Acura).
Very pleasant buying experience.
1. submit online inquery to dealerships that you can drive to within half a day.
2. follow-up with the sales person who contacted you that you want their best internet quote
3. pick the best quote and ask everyone else to beat it (not simply match it).
4. pick the best quote from step 3 and ask one or two dealers you really want to purchase from to beat it with their best effort
5. do purchase it from the winning dealer you chose in step 4
* do NOT repeat step 3 as it would not be fair to the dealers and a smart sales will know you are just playing games.
* do NOT repeat step 4 to the same dealer as it would make the dealer really really mad and you will lose your credit and his/her business. If you decide to make an offer, do not change it afterwards. Or, simply ask the dealer to make you a final offer and don't try to change it either. Think of it as a bidding process, not playing games.
* do NOT take step 4 if you are not going to take step 5. Dealers have to make a living just like you do.
* whatever the price you have in mind or offer to the dealers does not really matter to the dealers at all. What truly matters are the price offers you have gotten from the other dealers and that you are going to make a purchase within a week or two.
* stay flexible on accessories and colors. The best deal comes from what the dealers have in stock at the time. You will pay more if they need to order one for you. Most dealers who I talked to have already installed tint and wheel locks that you don't really need to pay for.
* if you want additional accessories, such as running board or roof rack, they will not install it before you have bought it (so you will have to make another trip to the dealer). It's very difficult to negotiate prices on accessories and they are very expensive.
* the same dealer does not give the same quote to everyone. So, it's not important where people got their best deals from (so don't ask me this question). Again, refer to my point mentioned above about what truly matters.
* I highly recommend Jeremy at Champion Acura for a fair, responsive and pleasant experience.
Remember, if you want the dealer to treat you fairly then you have to do the same. There is really not much negotiation at all but to follow a process.
I got in the mail yesterday, a flier from our local dealer, that was offering an MDX base for about $ 43000 plue tx, ect. The flier was a form type sent probably to all of the present and maybe previous owners of Acuras. They had all of them listed and the MDX base was about $ 43000. Add on tech and it probably came to (guess) $ 45500.
I am going to purchase an MDX for my wife next year, I will wait for the spring, or maybe Feb - May. JMO.
It sounds like many posters here are getting excellent deals and I wish all of you good driving, and for buyers, good luck finding a good deal.
No, I dont work or am associated with any Acura or other car dealers. Just learned along time ago not to let the dealer dictate the final price.
Good luck to all and stay safe.
jensad
Hope this helps
I'm going to cast a net this weekend on the mdx tech/ent and see what I get close to or under invoice.
Did you trade anything?
No trade involved, cash deal. Also, this was my second trip to this dealer, although I did not even go into the dealership during the first visit. Only browsed the lot and spoke with a sales rep. in the lot. On the second visit I hooked back up with the same rep. and test drove both the RDX and MDX (no comparison in my opinion). I actually drove the unit I eventually purchased. Color was Bali Blue/Taupe. They had about 6-8 units on the lot (various trim levels) with additional inventory being unloaded the next day when I pick up the MDX.
Good luck and be tough with your negotiations.
MDX + tech + ent
msrp - $48,615
invoice $44,642
tmv - $46,123
Offers
1 - $45,500 plus tax, title fee
2 - $46,615 plus registered state tax, tax, admin fee
3 - $45,590.00 plus tax, title fee
Talking to a few more dealers this weekend.
Holding out for 44K.
MDX - $ 42230 ;
RL - $46830.
I hope these prices help you. But this was Bay Area Ca. and I hope you get the deal you want.
Good luck to all and stay safe.
jensad
It's a good start. You may want to wait a bit to move closer to months end. Historically dealers are more eager near month end to make their sales plan. Also you might want to remind then that you are aware that the 2011 model of the MDX may be released soon. That's the rumor and it certainly will not hurt to suggest you have this information even if it's only a rumor. Look for all the leverage you can get in the negotiations. Remember the dealer will never make a deal he does not want to make. He does this everyday and knows what his bottom number is. That's his real edge in the process. You might also want to get some out of state quotes that could help your case. Also remember the internet quote is rarely close to the dealer's best number. It takes some effort but look at it as a challenge and you might enjoy the process a little.
Again good luck and keep us updated on your progress.
$400 over invoice.
I'm seriously considering unless the cinci/pittsburgh/charlotte/columbus quotes can beat it. They haven't yet.
If you can wait and send more queries for a quote and then sit on it for few days/ week, chances are you will hit one or two dealers who are desperate to sell and will give you a good deal. But you need to have a target in mind based of what people are reporting ( I think i saw 44K for tech + ent) for reference
When I started the process for 2010 MDX tec, I was also getting quotes for invoice + $ 400, however, I purchased for $1000 below invoice
Remember the dealer will try to create a rush scenario by saying these cars are hard to come by etc, if you are patient, they will give in to lower their profit, which was my goal
Good Luck
Assume their true invoice is $10K, state tax 5%, $200 tag, $300 destination. Then their true cost is $11K.
You offer either
(1) $11K base price + tax tag dest, assuming they omit processing fee and you negotiate down to $300 destination from their saying of $800. This way, you pay $12K OTD and their profit is $1K. Assuming corporate tax is 35%, then $350 will go to IRS and state (referring to company tax as opposed to sales tax which cannot hide). $550 sales tax here.
(2) you offer them $12K OTD. You pay the same as above. No difference to you, but a big one to the dealer. You are telling them you don't care about govt tax. Then on the accounting form, an aggressive dealer would have the following: $800 destination + $100 processing + $200 tag + charges they make up of (e.x. credit check fee, etc etc). Say these amount to $1.5K. On the paper, they sold you this car for $9.9K + $500 tax. Then they ACTUALLY LOST MONEY ON THIS TRANSACTION. Not only won't they pay corporate tax (refund instead) but also saved $50ish on sales tax.
Math might be complicated, but the concept is straight forward. Everyone should offer OTD. If they pass on saving of $250, then they will accept your OTD offer of $11750
You offer either
(1) $11K base price + tax tag dest, assuming they omit processing fee and you negotiate down to $300 destination from their saying of $800. This way, you pay $12K OTD and their profit is $1K. Assuming corporate tax is 35%, then $350 will go to IRS and state (referring to company tax as opposed to sales tax which cannot hide). $550 sales tax here.
Why would tax and tag be a dealer cost? Those are purely consumer fees.
The OTD price do allow them to play with the figures as you indicated but the tax number will depend on the vehicle price.
About your breakdown.....if the selling price is $10k sales tax @5% is $10.5k period end of subject, now if the selling price is less than $10k so will be the sales tax..".no green light" at ALL!!!!
Negotiations are strictly concerning selling price of the vehicle (which should include destination charges),doc fees and if any, accessories. The DMV and the taxes are "sacred"..DMV is fixed and the taxes depend on selling price.
And about their "corporate taxes", sorry but I do not believe that is any of our business as buyers and between you and me i doubt that they will a take a risk for one or many hundreds of sales the URS will put them out of business quicker that you can say MDX..
If you think you got a good price that is all it counts no matter what others think or how try to rationalize you deal..enjoy the suv in the best of health..
Boston Acura: Tech only $44,168
Prime Acura North: Tech only: $43,573 and the Tech w/ entertainment: $45,396
Herb Connolly Acura: Tech: $44,700 and Tech w/ entertainment: 46,604
Prime Acura Walpole: Tech w/ entertainment $44,989
Now, here is my question: Does the dealer determine invoice? That is just a fuzzy math to me. Where do I start in my negations? All the quotes above came from my email frenzy earlier this week. Some claimed to make it a 24 hour deal only (Walpole). Can someone PLEASE tell me what my next move should be? Thanks.
Actually they are willing to go for little more low, but they dint had the color that I want in the inventory. They got my car from other dealer.
All the best for your purchase.
For a Base Model 2010 MDX:
invoice ($38,776)+ destination fee ($810) = $39,586
So, is $39,999.(including destination fee) + TTL a good deal or not ? That is the lowest price I can get from dealer now. Can we get a lower one? thanks.
Based on what I'm reading in this forum and seeing on truecar.com, seems like I should be able to get it at invoice or maybe even better.
I guess my next step is check the Orange County dealers. Sounds like Mission Viejo Acura has given good prices in the past. Before doing that I wanted to get some advice.
1. If I email a bunch of Orange County dealers, should I make an offer of invoice or just ask them to send me their best offer?
2. Do you think it's better to call than to email? I wonder how much they are willing to deal via email or phone.
3. I'm looking at trading in. Do I even mention that or does it hurt my negotiating power?
4. Seems like even if I negotiate a good price on the new vehicle, they can just low ball my trade in to make up the difference. Any advice on how to protect myself from that? I know it's better to sell the vehicle myself but I have a short time frame and might not be able to sell it in time.
thanks for any suggestions.
The dealer then offered the kbb excellent trade in value - printed it and brought it to me - quickly. Which kind of freaked me out. I left without doing the deal because I felt like it was a setup.
I had my neighbor, who sales cars, look up my car on the auction sites and it seemed like the kbb excellent value was the documented avg auction values on the condition.
I'm still waffling - I'm Farve-ian in my decision making.