Chevy Silverado

txyank1

"While they seem very similar, The Tahoe does have a shorter wheelbase than the 1500hd".

I should say so.....by over 2 ft.!! (probably closer to 3) Even longer than the X-Cab which is already too long to turn corners and park. That's part of the reason I now drive an Avalanche.

silverado03

Personally I think that Chevy are the best reliable long lasting truck on the road. They are much more convient than Fords trucks and cars. The chevys seem to handle much about everything from using it to go shopping and taking it out in the mountains. Fords, have to many problems with their trucks and more expensive. Today the prices of a chevy is much higher than a ford, I'd choose a chevy nevertheless of the price. I choose a chevy because it better

bigfur

What are you like a writter for the commercials for the company???? Sure sound like one.

sjspor

You obviously have not owned your truck very long yet. These trucks bring a whole new meaning to the word crappy.

jrkrace

Hi All. I am inquiring if anyone has done anything to improve the ridge in these trucks. I have a 2002 GMC HD2500 Ext Cab Short bed. I know it is a heavy duty truck, but I am wondering if anyone has had experience with different shocks. I have been reading about BFGoodrich Velvet Ride Shackles but they supposedly lower the truck about 1/2 inch to 1 inch in the rear. Any help would be appreciated...

ryanbab

try bilstein hds i have them on my 1500 and they made a HUGE difference in the ride

obyone

Buy it. You won't regret it. Installation is a little difficult but worth it.

jrkrace

Maybe I will try both....Thanks...

akjbmw

I saw an add in an RV magazine recently that listed LORD Corporation as the manufacturer of the Velvet-Ride Shackles. It puzzled me at the time, but I didn't research it.
Since the above post about them, I went surfing and found that the references in Google pointed to http://www.lordmpd.com/. A quick look at their site gave no indication when they acquired the product. Maybe there was a renaming of parties involved. I think I remember from when I bought mine, that the Velvet-Ride product was sort of an oddity product with a link to the aerospace part of BFG. Anyone else with some info on the transition of the products ownership?

noobie1

Saw an add a while back for ProComp: 3-way adjustable, "If you don't like them, bring'um back". I'm wish'in Bilsteins had as good a guarantee.

-David

jrkrace

Why? Did you have any bad luck with them? I did have a set on my Grand National and they were pretty good. i'm just wondering how they are with trucks...

mpurp

Hi I am ne to this board.

I have a 1989 Chevy 2500 with a 3 year old original replacement 350 fuel injected engine. When ever I press moderately on the gas the engine misses, hesitates and sometimes back fires (not loudly tho). I tried changing the distributor cap and rotor and then changed the fuel pump and filters. But the problem still exists. The engine always starts the first time and idles perfectly. I am now thinking it is a timing issue. Does anybody know the correct procedure for timing this engine?
Thanks
Mark

homerkc

What mileage can I expect (city and highway) from a 2wd Silverado ext. cab with either the 4.8 or 5.3 engine?

txyank1

Just for reference, I got 16.5 - 17 combined weekday driving and 22 - 23 on a trip with my '99 4.8. And on my '01 5.3 it was more like 16 and 20. I notice the stated mpg has gone up on the '04s.

akjbmw

So, after three years (?) what would make the timing change? Gefingerpoken?
Rubber hoses get old and are overlooked during engine updates... this equates to vacuum leaks.
Sometimes, it's just better and easier to take the vehicle to someone you can trust (there's a challenge) to investigate with eyes, ears, and instruments.
It's pretty tough to diagnose from typed text. Unless, of course, it's a "textbook" case. ;-)

homerkc

Thanks, txyank1. Do you like the 5.3 better than the 4.8? I'm wondering if the difference is noticeable in a 2wd truck used as personal transportation and light hauling.

txyank1

I was always impressed by the 4.8, and I had the first one with only 255hp. But the added torque of the 5.3 is definitely noticeable. I could certainly live with the 4.8, but prefer the 5.3. I like the whooomp. Even in my current, much heavier Avalanche it still runs pretty darn good.

noobie1

Sorry about the delay.

Others like them; Ryan's sold on them. I can't argue with that. But he's got his own criteria, and a different truck than ours. Mine's the same as yours, heavy duty (6500lbs. heavy); His is light duty.
I was looking for something stiffer, and didn't find them to be a huge improvement over stock, more like a huge disappointment considering that I waited for them for over a year. The advantage I see with ProComp, you've got three choices; If none of them work for you, tak'um back. The only question, I don't know how long or good their guarantee is. Bilsteins are lifetime.
Let us know how it turns out.

-David

jpbettridge

I have a leased (3 yr) 2001 Silverado w/ ext cab and minimal frills. Only 24000mi of 36000mi used, maybe another 2000 by Jan turn-in time.
   Also have a type Z A.R.E. cap. Therein lies another story - cap has broken rear window glass
it costs over $600 to replace - cap originally cost $900+.
   Would like advise on whether or not to extend lease (my payment is $358/mo - how much would it drop?). How long could extension be? And what is the best way to sell cap when I eventually turn the truck in? - I want to lease a GMC XUV next time.

imconover

Hi, I just recently got a 2000 silverado....well i just discovered this square box in the glove box that resembeles a telephone key pad. i'm thinking its an anti -theft device. i tried to look in the manual but no luck..If anyone can help I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks

Ivana

tommc

Look around the newspapers and find out what the value of that truck is. Lease on a used truck should be much lower, or I'd suggest buying it outright. You know the truck's history. Lease agreements are getting more shady all the time with fees required to turn it back in even. The cap actually has little value used unless you can find someone who has to have it. Most sell for about 50 dollars that I see.

akjbmw

Just like everything else, "it" is only worth what someone will pay for it.
Your area may reflect different pricing for Used Caps or Shells.
Unfortunately, I find that my area must like caps/shells more than that of tommc. New seem to be more expensive too.
Used units are usually listed for a range of $300 to $600 depending on condition. I have been looking at the fiberglass type, not the aluminum... that may make a significant difference in your area too.
Further, I see it disappointing that the clear coat is peeling on the top of mine and repaint estimates are almost what I paid for it (used) in the first place. Yes, I paid more than I should have 'cause I bought from a dealer. I also believe that I should go to another area to buy next time.
I am in the Reno area. I have seen listings on the east coast and in Oregon that are much better than the costs here for new.

gdblake

Just had a new grill guard installed (Westin) & wind noise at 55+ is very annoying. Anyone else have this problem

redalarm

I have a problem with my clutch. with it being cold out now when i frist start my truck in the morning, i have no pressure on the clutch until the engine warms up to about 150-180 degrees in the engine. then pressure returns to normal. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

Mr_Shiftright

Bad clutch master or clutch slave cylinder I'd guess or you have water in your hydraulic fluid.

First do a flush and if that doesn't work, it's more or less a guess which of the two cylinders to replace first---probably the cheaper one!

Besides, at the age of your truck, it is more than overdue for clutch hydraulics overhaul.

redalarm

hulet

I have a 1990 Chev. Silverado pickup with automatic transmission with overdrive (700R4 I think). Last weekend I was driving along at about 70 with the cruise control on. Suddenly the engine started speeding up and the truck started slowing down. I turned the cc off and tried pressing on the gas. The engine would speed up but the truck would not. It was as if it was suddenly in neutral. The truck will go just fine in the lower gears, but when I put it in drive or overdrive it is as if I put it in neutral. It did not start slipping first and then go out. What might be the cause?

nicktsa

I have a 2003 Silverado with the analog AC/Heater controls (not the fancy electronic climate control). When I have it on recycle air, the AC seems to come on. The AC button light does not come on but the air coming out is very cold. When I took it in to fix the CD player (broke after 2 CDs) they told me that the A/C thing was "by design” but I would think that the A/C light should come on. Just like the recycle light goes off when you set it to defrost.

seelig

yep..........both my rado's work like that, only with my '00, i can start the truck without touching the A/C button and the A/C comes on.
my '01 however only does it after i've had the A/C button engaged, and then i turn the A/C button off.

rayt2

As dealer says, it is by design to function that way. The reason being that under recycle you recirculate the cabin air and if your all breathing heavy or come in from the cold and fog up the windows this will remove the moisture your putting into the cabin while on recirc.
I believe your owners manual states this also.

Ray T.

nicktsa

Thanks for the confirmation!!

ohneedshelp

If its causing a wind noise by the wind shield then I had the
Same problem and the dealer used a a Black Silicon on the Vertical Rubber along the Wind Shield ** Noise stopped. If its somewhere else no clue.

brazos

Second post, just really discovered this place. A couple of questions.

First I think you all have discussed the engine knock noise several times. The dealer only said mine was not as bad as most. What do I need to do to protect myself? What is the extended warranty on this about? Give me the post and I will go read.

Second, Dodge and Chevy both have a problem with those head lamp covers. My 90 Chevy and the Dodge Caravan I own both dimmed out bad. What can I do to protect both my new vehicles?

thanks,

braz

rayt2

File a complaint with GM Customer Service after having it verified by dealer, they should offer you the same thing as everyone else...........a 5 yr. 100k engine warranty. Then go out a get a pet Canary and place the warranty in the cage for all it's worth. The longevity may not be an issue as it's been reported by some with this condition that they have over 100k miles on their knockers with no ill effects. The RESALE however will be an issue since no one will by a used truck with a knocking engine.

Ray T.

brazos

Thanks Ray,

Now what about that oxidation problem? Any preventatives?

braz

rackmaster287

My engine knock is loud compared to most. I filed a complaint with the BBB and was finally offered 7yrs./ 100,000mi. and reluctantly accepted. I have also had an intermittent problem with the engine accelerating up to 2,000 RPM in drive while braking and at low speeds. The dealer says the computer does not show any error codes and hasn't attempted to correct this problem? Any Thoughts or suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

txyank1

I think the newer vehicles are a whole lot better in this regard. Having noticed how bad some older Explorers are (we have a '96) I satarted keeping them waxed. So far so good. Only has 41k miles but still...it is nearly 8 yrs. old. Never had the problem on my GM Trucks but I've seen some that are pretty bad. Maybe just frequent washings helped.

rackmaster287

Mothers car care products had a tip on TV, but I forgot what they used. Mabey if you contact them you can find out.

lop

My husband and I will take delivery of a 2004 Silverado Crew Cab with a Duramax and Allison on January 2nd. We're novice truck owners and this is the first new vehicle my husband has ever had. I just wanted to introduce us. I posted a question on one of the other lists, but I'll also ask it here. Should we get the extended warranty? What do the rest of you think?

rackmaster287

If you intend to keep the vehicle and it gives you piece of mind its good. My last experience with my 2001 2500HD 6.0 going to full throttle occaisionally was never fixed. I just bought a 2003 1500HD 6.0 When offered the warranty I told the dealer Mr. Goodwrench can't fix anything. You never get use to hearing "could not duplicate problem"

rayt2

As stated, if you plan on 5 or more years of keeping the truck you might want to consider the ESP. His statement "could not duplicate problem" is a common one made by dealerships though when they can't determine the cause of a problem or fix it while under warranty. Once your out of warranty though is a different story since they now can charge you to spend countless hours diagnosing. An ESP is just that though "piece of mind" insurance. I never believed in them up until buying my 2000 Silverado and my wifes 2000 Windstar, unfortunately I chose a 3rd party ESP and got burned when they went bellyup. Vehicles today are tech heavy and one trip to dealer out of warranty almost guarantees a $300 to $500 bill. It's a gamble but it's your decision and comfort level that needs to be satisfied. There is also a lot of profit margin on selling these plans so shop around to different GM dealerships to get the best price, the hungriest saleman will give the best price on the GMESP. Do your homework before going in to talk about buying the plan, you have up until the end of factory warranty to purchase the plan so don't let dealer pressure you into rushing to buy a plan when you buy the truck.

Ray T.

gator36

Just chiming in here.

2001 Silverado 5.3 Z71 4x4

I bought the GMPP Major Guard. A couple of months ago I had a trans problem. Lost the 3-4 clutch. Trans was re built no questions asked and zero out of pocket.

I Might add that before that I had almost recouped the cost in repairs for little things. (heated mirror did not work) I can be very picky when it comes down to it and I definitely get my money's worth.

rayt2

If I may ask, what did you pay for that policy and was it purchased at time you bought the truck or towards the end of the factory warranty ? Very curious since factory plan will be the only ESP I ever think of purchasing ever again.
(yea I'm one of the poor suckers who got ripped off by Warranty Gold 3rd party ESP)

Ray T.

gator36

I purchased the GMPP plan at the end of the factory warranty. I was at 33k or something like that. Here in So Cal. I drive ALOT so I purchased the GMPP major guard 4/1000 plan with $0 deductible. This is 4 years from date of purchase (yes I will be close to 100k at the end of 4 years.) or 100k.
This warranty covers most everything except trim and a couple of other little things.
If I remember right it was about $1,700. This is for a half ton 4x4. I saw that my deal on a half ton 2wd would have been about $890. So you can see a huge difference in 4wd vs. 2wd. I cannot say if there is a difference in half vs. 3/4 ton vehicles.
I am very picky about how my truck is maintained and this warranty has paid for itself in spades.
I had the same on my last truck (97 GMC Sierra) and it also was an excellent investment.

Remember this, they mark the price up, so there is room to haggle. I bought my warranty at the commercial truck sales office (fleet).

Good luck and happy holidays.

rayt2

Thanks for sharing that info with us all, very helpful for all of us considering purchase of Factory ESP.

Merry Christmas to you & yours and a very healthy New Year !

noobie1

        Another factor is having a service department you can trust. Personally I've had so many bad experiences under the regular warranty that the idea of an extended warranty is a "laugher" and would be fairly useless at the service departments I've been to so far, unless the concern were so obvious as in gator's case that "could not duplicate customer's concern" just could not fly. Under ideal circumstances (theoretically), having a little extra insurance seems like a good idea, especially at a good price. According to my experience, that price would have to be very low indeed. Here's an example:
        Noisy A/C from day one. Take it to dealership (A) which replaces compressor. Get the truck back with no improvement. Complaint is greeted with, "then that must be how they're supposed to sound". Take it to dealership (B). The service writer who claimed to be an ex-A/C technician says, "I know what that is. It's the compressor. I'll replace it". Get the truck back with no improvement. Service writer says to bring it back when I can leave it for a couple of days and they'll track it down. I bring it back armed with a TSB explaining how many A/C compressors are being mistakenly replaced to solve noise problems when the solution lies elsewhere as detailed by the TSB. This was brushed aside and I got the truck back three days later with "could not duplicate customer's complaint". Problem still unresolved. I'll look for an independent.
Extended warranty? I'll think about it.

But here's a more joyous thought: Merry Christmas to all and a Great New Year!

-David

jrkrace

Hey all, Happy New Year!
Just inquiring if you have to put that GM Limited slip additive to a HD 2500 with the locking rear end(G 80). Mine chatters a little when I get off the highway and make a turn.Kinda like my Grand National used to do way back. I have already taken it to the dealer and they serviced the rear end about 5000 miles ago and it's doing it again...Any info would help..Thanks.

ryanbab

only the pre 99 trucks needed he additive. The new trucks (new body style 99+ years) do not need it because they use synthetic gear oil (75w-90)

mlempire

Hi all, just bought a gmc savanna 2500hd extended van and am looking for a break on the gmpp price of major guard 7y 100k 100 deduct plan. this is my 5th gm truck in 4 years and am mostly pleased with their durabilty except for my 2001 2500hd LT
8.1 w/allison that was repurchased due to unsolvable engine stall at highway speeds . it would stall in the fast lane at 65 to 75 mph and coast to a stop... it would restart after 20 minutes to 2 hours..run great for 50 to 500 miles and do it again.. used all available gm roadside help and my triple AAA tows to get off the roadside..they replaced every computer control module, sensor, and anything else they could think of several times before it was deemed terminal. Dealer was sorry for the trouble and service manager was key to getting it repurchased
but it was alot of grief for a $35k truck. I have
4 other 6.0 2500hd's that have been trouble free except for the steering rattle issue.

lobstafari

Hi all, I was just pokin' around in the electrical center box, and noticed a 30 amp A.I.R. system fuse. Anyone know what it goes to/stands for/does? Seems different than A/C system, but that was my first thought....have that too, though.