Chevy Silverado

jaguar0027

So Im driving home just now coming from Home Depot when all of the sudden, my cd player stops working and I get this "Err" message and then the radio comes on.

I just cleaned the player (as well as the CD) but to no avail. The head unit would not even accept the cd player cleaner.

Has anyone else ever run into this? Is there a fix? My truck is going into the dealer this week anyway. Guess I could add it to the now growing list.

Thanks in advance,

Jim

ryanbab

"coming from Home Depot "

That was your first problem hehe (i work for a competitor)

jaguar0027

Your killin me... LOL

reed4

I'm wondering if the Silverado is still available with the 4.8L V8 coupled to a 5-speed manual trans. If so, does anyone know if they will continue to make it available with the updated 2003 model. Would also be interested to hear some comments from owners of this configuration.

Thanks much......Reed

rayt2

The truck frames are all dipped in hot wax, undercoating is no longer used. The truck brochure explains all this.

Ray T.

am70043

thanks for everyone's knowledge and replying back to me AL

txyank1

It appears as though that was dropped as an option when the HP was increased. I never drove one but have had '88, '90, and '92 350 5 spds and loved 'em. Except in stop-and-go traffic. But that goes for any stick.

truckluver

I am getting conflicting answers from different dealers on this one.
Do you or do you not add a limited slip additive
when you change the rear axle oil?
The owner's manual does not mention it.
I know you use synthetic oil, so does that mean you do not need the additive?
One dealer said it wouldn't hurt to add it another said I don't need it at all, and another said I need it.
I have a 2002 1500HD with 3500 miles on it
and just now starting to hear the tapping and knocking everyone else is talking about.
Called my local dealer up and was told "it was normal" nothing to worry about.
The sevice rep said he has the same truck and it sounds like a diesel.
Not to sure what to think about that one.

ryanbab

no additive. The additive is only for Pre 99 trucks

The new trucks 99+ use a 75W-90 synthetic lube

rayt2

I just changed my rear diff. fluid at 30k for first time, no additive neded. I used Mobil 1 75/90 Synthetic Gear Lube, $7 a qt. at AutoZone. I have a 2000 Silverado Ext.Cab 2500 2wd w/3.73 Rear Locker. The fluid didn't even look dirty and I had towed my travel trailer for maybe 3000 miles of that 30k. Sorry to hear you have one of the "normal knockers" GM is producing. File with GM Customer Service (the 800#'s in your owners manual)and get a case file started. The dealers have all been trained by corporate to tell you it's normal even though common sense (which GM lacks) says otherwise. Here's a site to visit and find out more, register your truck there also. http://www.gmpistonslap.cjb.net

Ray T.

truckluver

Thanks for the info.
About how many qaurts did it take?
Also my truck leans to the driver side, is that because of the fuel tank?

pjcav

For those interested in pics of 2003 silverados at dealers lot go to
www.gm-trucks.com
then go to general off topic forum and click on topic 2003 silveraod pics.

lots of different opinions on that topic

pat

rayt2

I think it took a little over two quarts I don't quite remember, I did have some left in a quart bottle when I was done. Don't bother pulling the diff. cover there's a drain plug in bottom of case, a suction gun is all you need to refill.
The lean to side is not because of fuel tank mine sits level no matter full tank or not.

Ray T.

xyz71

I switched both of my trucks to M-1 (99 Silverado & 2001 Tahoe) about 10 months ago - I know how the computer tracks miles & hours & engine temp and lets you know when it is time for an oil change

The first time I started my 99 when odometer was over 30,000 (30,002 to be exact) the change engine oil light came on.

Now the 2001 light came on the first time truck was started over 10,000 miles (10,003)

Is this just a coincidence - the timing seems strange.

Anyone else have the change oil light come on right after hitting 10 - 20 -30 K miles?

hosertoo

Service 4WD light came on. Dealer replaced switch, problem went away for about 2000 miles. Light came on in San Francisco then went out. Came on again, tried 4 high ,went in but wouldn't come back out. 6 miles of tight turns on steets in 4wd. Finally went back into 2 hi. Anyone else having trouble with electric shift? Other problem is off the line shudder. Know this was a topic some time ago but did Chevrolet come up with cure? Dealer told me that it was clutches in rear end. Supposedly cleaned them and changed rear end fluid $130.00. Problem still there.

peppe1

The ERR message lets you know that the head unit is to hot to play a CD. Once it cools down it will work again. This is one of the problems with all in dash CD players.
Tom

erikheiker

My change oil message comes on about every 3300 miles. Not surprising, since most of my trips are just a few miles. So yes, one time it came on not too long after I hit 10,000 miles. I'll have to wait a few years to see if this is a trend. My truck is 21 months old and I just hit 14,500 miles today. Still running great. No knock, no leaks, no oil consumption. What a great truck!

jaguar0027

Consider yourself lucky man!

Peppe1 it was not too HOT. Took it to the dealer and they had to order me a new head unit. That's what you get with these stock AC Delco radios!

imaginos

Thanks for your recent post #111 regarding the piston slap. I've not been here for about 4 months and was going back looking at the closed board to see your finalized story of what happened, but still haven't found it - I do remember reading it.

I'm assuming this is the cold start slapping sound you hear for the first few minutes every time you start the truck? Also sounds like a clattery valve lifter to me....

Have 11K miles now ('01, 5.3, 4x4) and it probably started that about 3 months ago at ~8k miles. I've heard it even when the engine was still hot at start-up, when it had been sitting turned off for 1/2 hour (still in 100F outside temps). It sounds like there's no oil in the motor for a few minutes, or at least until after you drive for a few blocks - but you have to be at idle to hear it.

Someone posted an audio file link back then, I listened to it, and it sounds the same to me. There were also pics of a dismantled engine showing scoring on the cylinder walls (not sure if this was finally determined to be the same problem).

Taking truck in to get the 4WD switch replaced since the "Service 4WD" light comes on every so often at start-up. Only stays on for 0.749 seconds though, still, dealer said that they do replace the switch for this case - but nothing is suposedly wrong with the 4WD system... Anyone heard of that??

Have had the HillOffRoad front end "crank the torsion bars way up" leveling kit on for 5 months now. Still way too rough on the front end, have gotten used to it, but will likely change this in the future. Called Sky-jackers, as they have one for the older body style (2.5" front end lift, 1" read end lift). They are currently developing one that will work for both the old and the current body style. They estimate it will be out late this year. If this is decent and will bring the ride quality back, I'll probably go for it and bag the one I have now. For now, I like the way the truck looks - on a level surface I can put a level along the bed rail and that rail is level..... With 285/75/16 KO's, and alloy wheels, looks a lot more healty. My brother just put a 4" rancho lift on a 2002, and it rides slightly rougher than stock, but hardly worse, and way better than mine. Not sure I'm all about having the 4" lift though.... Rather put the money toward the Whipple. By the way, a guy here just put one on a 6.0L Denali. I guess it's pretty healthy now (~450 HP)..... But $4k ???

utbill

>>I'm wondering if the Silverado is still available with the 4.8L V8 coupled to a 5-speed manual trans. If so, does anyone know if they will continue to make it available with the updated 2003 model. Would also be interested to hear some comments from owners of this configuration.<<

Reed, I have a 2k Silverado ext LS Z71 that I ordered with the 4.8lt, 5 speed and non-push button transfercase and just love it.

I've got 20k miles on it now and it's never been back to the dealer (I have a recall notice that needs to be addressed) yet and runs excellent. Plenty of power (I live in a area that starts at 4700ft and go up to 10000 ft weekly) gets great gas mileage (for a 5000lb truck) and with the manual transmission, goes down the road perfect. Off road and in the snow it does great.

I average 20 mph combined and on the freeway get 23-25 mpg. I drive 70 mph to get that. If I drive 75-80 it drops down to 21 mpg.

I've used Mobile one since 6k miles and change when the light comes on. So far that seems to be 6-8k miles.

Sadly, chev does not offer this combo any more. They offer automatic trans with v-8 in the ext cab 4x4 only in the 1500. I've had many offers to buy my truck from folks around here. The manual trans works very well going off road and coming down the grades here. My dad has same truck (with auto) and has to be on the brakes 60-75% of the time coming down the mountain and I have to use them maybe 20%.
My Dad just bought a 2002 truck just like mine (4x4, 4.8l, ext cab ls) with Auto everything and it's got very good power.

I've also noticed that in 2000, the 4 door outfits (mine is a 3 door, I did not want a 4 door) would make quite a bit of noise off road from the doors rubbing back and forth, My dads 2002 is just as quiet as my 3 door and chev seems to have improved that area in the 2 years.

Also, No knock from the 4.8l v8. The only thing (which I have done) that I wished from Chev on the truck is a locking Tailgate. That's it! I owned 3 Ford Trucks (72, 90 and 94) that just had problems after problems and have never looked back. Just love my Silverado.

Hope this helps. Take care, Bill

mtrammell

Anyone having the steering rattle and lubricating the Intermediate Steering Shaft didn't work, check out this link:

http://service.gm.com/techlink/html_en/pdf/200207-en.pdf#dst01

You will need Adobe Acrobat installed. When you get the document up, click on Steering Column Rattle in the Bookmarks tab on the left side of the window.

Looks like GM is finally recognizing the bearing in the Steering Assembly as the problem. I believe this particular problem is primarily in the HD line.

There is also a good article on the Electronic Controlled Viscous Cooling fan (currently on the TrailBlazers) that will be on the new 2003 5.3 Silverados.

dgore1

At one time I read a message on one of the Chevy Truck boards about increasing the lift on the front torsion bars by tightening the bolts at the rear of the bars. Can anyone lead me back to that or just give me advice again on this process? I just sold my 01 1500 HD 4x4 and purchased a 02 2500 HD Crew 4x4 (8.1\Allison\SB). I've measured and there is approximately 2 3/4 inches difference in the front to back measurement. I'd like to get that measurement a little closer. In addition I'd like to go to larger tires, either 265's or 285's. I've read that the 265's are fine without making any other changes, but that the 285's will require some recalibration. A fellow in my town has gone to the 285's and reported that he didn't change anything else other than the torsion bars and hasn't had any problems. Anybody else had any experience with these changes?

obyone

Just received results of oil analysis on '91 Nissan truck with 120k miles. Results look way better than one reported on my '00 rado with 36k. Guess that kinda figures.

sonjaab

Clockwise turn to raise
Counterclockwise to lower.
Just jack up the front to make the
turning easier//////..geo

jaguar0027

Interesting. But did you really expect something else?

obyone

in the oil so I could get rid of it and buy another truck

jaguar0027

I hear ya on that one!

imaginos

Is it just me (which I truly doubt) or is this edmunds site getting almost too s....l....o.....w to use?????

obyone

as I timed out a couple of times

awong22828

I am looking into purchasing either a new 1500HD or a 2500HD crew cab 4 door, 4x4, short bed. I can get the 1500HD for about the same price as the 2500HD and both trucks would be the same size. Is there a model that is better than the other one or are the trucks meant to be similar? Both also work out to approximately the same price. For the 2500HD, I would probably take the 8.1L with the 6 speed manual transmission to keep the cost down and still get good power. I was also wondering about the difference in fuel economy for the 6.0 in the 1500HD versus the 8.1 liter in the 2500HD. For the drivetrains, is the 2500HD chassis any beefier - such as full floating axles or bigger brakes, suspension, frame, etc.? Any knowledge in the difference that separates these trucks is greatly appreciated. Thanks.

PF_Flyer

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txyank1

it is sporadic but it certainly isn't anything new. Some mornings I have to just give up and come back later.

qzs4vb

You can raise the front end up a little by tightening the adjustment bolt at the rear of the torsion bars. How much to adjust them is up to you, I turned mine about 4 full turns and didn't notice any change in ride quality. At some point tightening these bolts will stiffen the ride up front so do a little experimenting and be sure to check that the height from the ground to the fender stays the same from right to left. My front end rose up an inch or so, taking away that nose down look.

265's will fit no problem, my truck came new with them. I know several people with 285's. Some say they get a very minor rub when the steering is turned to full lock and backed up, others say they are no problem.

thenes

I have a 2001 base model 2wd Silverado 1500, ext. cab with automatic and V-6. When I crawled under to lubricate the truck, I counted 7 grease fittings on the truck: 1 on the driveshaft, and 3 on each side up front for the steering parts. Did I find all the grease fittings? The manual didn't help. Thanks.

dch0300

This link will help you find them all.

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=95343&uid=62726

-David

ricobeach

Hey thenes,

I believe that you found them all. I also have a v6 base model ext. cab 2wd and the lube fittings that you listed are all that I have located as well.

Hope your truck is holding up well. Mine had plenty of problems early on but almost all have been repaired. Mine has 41k on it and does it's job reasonably well.

Rico
2000 Silverado 2wd ext cab - auto, A/C, stereo, bedliner, tranny cooler, class III hitch and bed rail caps

thenes

Thanks dch0300 and ricobeach for the info. I also had problems early on: an oil leak that had to be fixed and refixed and a rattle upon acceleration (dealer replaced the entire exhaust system), and a vibration around 1100 rpm. I still have the rattle and the vibration with 22,400 miles on the truck. GM said the rattle and vibration are normal. This is my first and last GM product. I only bought it because the back seat was bigger than a Tundra's. I filed a claim with the BBB and GM gave me a 5 year 75,000 mile component warranty on the engine. Other than these things, it has been an OK truck. The V-6 is adequate for the plains of east central Alabama and I always get between 20-21 mpg of mostly interstate driving which I am pleased with. I plan on driving this truck til the wheels fall of, so hopefully it will last at least 200K. I know of some friends that have gotten well over 200k on their S-10's with the same engine. Well, I'd better get back to work.

Have a great weekend!

dgore1

I just sold my 01 1500HD 4x4 short bed and purchased an 02 2500HD 4x4 short bed. The 1500HD had the 6.0 and 3.73 gears. Hwy milage was approx. 16-16.5 mpg. The 2500HD has the 8.1 w/ Allison 5-sp auto and 3.73 gears. So far, with 1900 miles, I'm seeing Hwy milage around 13.5-14 mpg. I prefer the 2500HD w/ 8.1 over the 1500HD so far as the engine moves it with much less effort than the 6.0. I've noticed that the main frame rails on the 2500HD seem to be noticeably taller than they were on the 1500HD as well. I'm sure there are some other mechanical differences also, but the frame size is noticeable. The ride is stiffer on the 2500, as would be expectted. The primary difference I've noticed is that pulling my camper (approx. 8,000 lb.s) is much easier with the big engine. It accelerates with ease and seldom shifts once moving. The 6.0 struggled a little with the same trailer. Hope this helps. If you want more info, you can e-mail me directly at dgore2@yahoo.com.

ricobeach

Thenes,

Your experience is a carbon copy of mine! My V6 started out with oil leaks and steering vibrations. Still has a few minor problems that the dealers cannot figure out but I followed the same path you did and received a 5yr/75000 mi extended warranty as well.
I also hope that these trucks are long lasting. I'm already at 41k on my 2000 Silverado. So this truck better last at least 150K or I am headed back to the imports (my old 89 Mazda would have easily lasted 200k).

Rico

mentor34

To settle an office debate, what exactly does it mean to have a locking rear differential on a 2500 HD?? Will it provide the same anti-spin protection that a limited slip differential would? Thanks in advance.

whatsachevy

If you have a true locking rear differential (I know some hard-core 4-wheelers who run lockers in the front diff as well), you have both rear wheels applying full power to the ground. A limited slip differential is exactly that - it limits the amount of wheel slippage. Limited slip diffs usually engage at only very slow speeds. They also regulate the amount of power to either rear wheel. You may have also heard them called posi's. A true locker will provide better traction than a limited slip. The 2500HD comes with an optional limited slip differential. Any 2500HD with a true locker would have to have been an aftermarket mod. You can get a good aftermarket locker for about $500.

imaginos

It seems that many of these terms are used very loosely - thus causing confusion. I think GM may be using the term interchangably, but here's what I have learned (maybe this is not what you've asked for - if so, sorry):

Locking differential: I would be surprised if you can get this from the factory on a GM truck (but maybe you can). Toyota offers this on the TRD packages. In low range (only) the differential can be "locked" such that the rear left and right wheels are forced to turn exactly the same - no differential slip at all. Aftermarket packages can do this too. This is ideal when you need a lot of traction. However, it is not ideal for on-road driving conditions - it will make the inside tire spin in corners because the outside tire is turning faster than what the inside tire wants to. Also makes it more difficult to maneuver the vehicle when turning because it is fighting itself. Most drag and race cars are equipped with these too.

Limited Slip: This is my favorite all around option. The two rear axles are connected together via a pack of clutch plates. They can be made to turn independently, but it does require a certain amount of torque differnetial from left to right wheels. This difference in torque can overcome the friction caused by the clutch pack, and allow the two axles to turn somewhat independently. This method still makes for good on-road driveability, however, you'll still notice some squawking of the inside rear tire in a corner - that just lets you know you have the limited slip you paid for. If you take off hard in a straight line - like a drag race - there is usually not enough torque differential to allow only one tire to spin, both will spin. But, if you put one tire on ice, and the other on dry pavement, it will definitely spin the tire on ice and not the one of the pavement. You'll still have better forward motion over a conventional axle, though, because the clutch pack will be trying to turn the wheel on the pavement to some degree. In this case, a locker would likely not allow the tire on the ice to spin, and you'd be propelled as if both tires were on the dry (to some extent). I really like the limited slip because I think it is the best all-around set-up.

Hope this helps.

txyank1

that's all GM has now is the locking diff. I find no mention in the specs any more of a limited slip. I have a locker in my 2001 Sierra and do not like it. Too many unnerving clattering noises that come from it. From what I've read that's normal. And no this was not from a GM Service Rep. I'd rather have a limited slip.

ryanbab

I hear you on the clattering noises. Scares the heck out of me sometimes. Sounds like the rear end is exploding. But on another note it is funny to look behind me and see the driver with this OH ^&$%^&$#%# look on their face wondering what the noise is.

rayt2

It's been discussed numerous times before, but you want the facts go here and be informed...

http://www.torquecontrol.eaton.com/

Ray T.

imaginos

Hey: Most of the stuff at the eaton site matches what I said, however, I didn't touch on the type of locking differential as the Eaton locker... I'm not sure if it was same company, but my brother put one in his Tacoma (non-TRD) and didn't like it because it was always clicking and making sounds driving around in parking lots. He eventually removed it and sold it.

So here's my question... My 2001 Silverado has the G80 code "locking differential". Is this in fact the Eaton locker as shown at their website? It is truly not a limited slip? I must have assumed it was a limited slip as I didn't think they actaully put a locking differential in stock. But this one is different than a full locker, so it makes sense. However, txyank1 and ryanbab just talked about all the clunks and noises, I've not heard this kind of popping sound driving when maneuvering in parking lots (like my brother's did), but I have heard a clunk or two off of a stop light...but nothing really crazy enough to make people notice it that are behind me... Let me know for sure what the code G80 "locking differental" is. That's pretty interesting to learn new stuff, especially since I bought it!!

ryanbab

as for noises only time i hear it is on wet pavement (mashing on pedal) or wet grass

xyz71

I have the G-80 locker on my 99 Z-71 - if road is wet and I (accidently of course) mash the gas I get one small click when it engages. I always considered this normal. I have also heard one or two small clicks when I back up - but this only happens once in a while -

mentor34

The last few posts have been extremely helpful, I wish that my Chevy dealer knew as much. Last question, does it need to be in 4 Lo for the Locking Differential to work or does it work in 2 hi as well?

blackmax200

4 HI; 4 Lo: 2 Hi is in the transfer case at the end of the transmission. Differential is in the rear end so I guess the answer to your question is... uhm No?
I'm confused... must be too many Mike's Hard Lemonade...hehe
matthew