Thanks for the info on GMO / www.gmfamilysavings.com. My dad is a 40 year GM employee, and not internet friendly. He does not want his SS # put on the web.
How else can I do this research??? I bought my '00 Silverado 1/2 ton with GMO (ordered in Aug'99 and took delivery in 6 weeks). I would like to get a good estimate on pricing for an '02 or '03 Silverado HD 2500.
Even if someone can run a example on that site for me, I would be deeply indebted!!!
Has anyone had experience with the FW1 optional suspension package. Apparently this enables you to select electronically, 2 different positions for the shock settings. Here in Canada they want about $450 for the option, and I have no idea whether it actually works, or is it worth the added coin. If anyone knows, what happens in the 2 selectable positions. What difference would one position over the other make with the Z71 Pkg. ......Revitupfaster
Thanks for the info on GMO / www.gmfamilysavings.com. My dad is a 40 year GM employee, and not internet friendly. He does not want his SS # put on the web.
How else can I do this research??? I bought my '00 Silverado 1/2 ton with GMO (ordered in Aug'99 and took delivery in 6 weeks). I would like to get a good estimate on pricing for an '02 or '03 Silverado HD 2500.
Even if someone can run a example on that site for me, I would be deeply indebted!!!
IT is a SECURE site ! Not to worry about SS#. I can give you aGM phone# to call direct about pricing. But you still need SS# number and the VIN# of the vehicle you want ! 1-800-235-4646. My family has bought 10 new GMs this year. Painless, Easy....Ya gotta shop your trade around tho. Unless its old and beat. I trade my 4x4 GM ecabs every 3 years and trade in (in NY)is awesome ! Low payments and new truck to snowplow, tow, & haul ! Good luck keep us posted !.........geo
BTW: The avg. GMS price is roughly $4500 off sticker on a 33k truck
Don't forget your friendly GM dealer will whip out the invoice with the GMS price right there on any new vehicle in stock. As long as your serious and tell them you are a GM employee family buyer. I have had no problems yet !........geo
I have the ride control suspension on my 2K 1500Xcab. It makes a world of difference in the handling characteristics when you load down the bed. It also comes with 46mm shocks instead of the standard 32mm. I think the hd suspension only comes with 42mm shocks.
Something to remember - Lubricating the i-shaft is not something you should have to do on a regular basis. The lube is GM's temporary solution to put your vehicle past the warranty period before it re-occurs. If your vehicle has low miles, get it to the dealer ASAP. The problem will most likely re-occur before your warranty runs out. If it happens the second time, insist that they replace the shaft.
The lube kit for the steering shaft costs like $10. If you need to fix it after warranty it should cost all that much. The labor will kinda suck but a person could do it on their own
I did have the shaft replaced about a yr ago. Problem came back worse. I have had the lube and all is fine
If ya find the truck ya want. Post the dealer name and address & VIN. I can give ya the GMS price if the dealer won"t.....Just post your email address here and I can get ya the EXACT GMS price.........geo
I have a 2001 extended cab 2wd Silverado with approx. 25,500 miles. I have recently noticed a clunk noise when I make a turn at slow speeds and can feel it in the steering wheel. Can anyone out there post the TSB number 00-02-35-03A "Steering - Underhood Clunk Noise"? The free site I used to use for TSB's has been removed. Thanks.
LOOK around on the board, this topic has been discussed many times over with the TSB listed numerous times, ya gotta do some of your own homework now and then. I had this same problem on my Y2K 2500 2wd Ext. Cab, they replaced the shaft prior to issuing this new TSB to lube it.
This was posted by Lauriet on the 2001 Silverado Vibrations topic......
TSB #00-02-35-0031 Clunking Noise Under Hood and can be felt in the Steering Wheel Condition Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.
Correction
Important DO NOT REPLACE THE FOLLOWING INTERMEDIATE STEERING SHAFT P/Ns
26085548 26049343 26083324 26088325
Remove the intermediate shaft from the vehicle and lubricate the intermediate shaft with a Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098419.
Thanks for the info. Ray T. I would have looked around the message board if I had more time (I'm at work and only had a few minutes to spare). Did the replacement of your shaft solve your problem?
The clunk is gone but have a lingering rubbing sound that I will have them address before my manufacturers warranty expires, I almost guarantee they'll "lube the shaft" this time and be done with me (little do they know) LOL!
What engine do you have?, do you have the notorious "knock" many are afflicted with ??
I am thinking about buying the shop manual from HELM for my 99 Silverado. Does anybody knows if this is the same manual that the dealers have? Is it worth the price? $120.00
The kit may be cheap but lubricating the shaft should not be a routine maintenance item for the owner. I have a 1977 Silverado that has never had any kind of rattle in the steering.
The center yoke of the driveshaft on my 2500HD started binding at about 15K miles. The dealer took the driveshaft off, filed the edges off the splines, greased it up and put it all back together. Didn't bind any more, but it started a bad vibration between 35-45 mph. The dealer had the driveshaft balanced and the vibration stopped. Now it's 5K miles later and the binding is starting again. The dealer tells me that the yoke will have to be greased periodically. I challenged him to show me where removing the driveshaft and greasing the yoke was a routine maintenance procedure and of course he couldn't. The driveshaft is being replaced.
No one should have to pull their steering shaft to lubricate it every xx miles and I'm sure as heck not going to pull my driveshaft every 5K miles to grease the yoke.
Neither of these procedures is identified as a routine (or even a non-routine) maintenance item in the tech manual. These systems should perform without maintenance for the life of the vehicle.
Is it true that if you get a GM supplier discount, you cannot combine your GM card earnings with it on a new vehicle purchase? I will be trading my '01 2wd x-cab for a '03 Z71 shortly and the dealer says I can use either, but not both.
I think that the manuals are worth it. All depends how much tinkering you do on the vehicle. One thing for sure is that I'm always researching torque values.....only difference between what the dealer uses and the helm manual is that your version will not have the part numbers.
Hi Folks, I'm a little late getting on board here. I 've a 2001 2500HD ext. w/6 L engine wit the notorious noise. I've filed a complaint with the BBB and GM has counter- offered 100K miles. I'm inclined to hold off and find out if I can hold their feet to the fire-so to speak. Is there anyone out there that has done better in arbitration?
GM and GM card are tinkering with the program again ! Employee GMS deals are affected too. Not sure when changes are in effect tho! Sure glad i kept my OLD black card....Was able to get almost 3k off my 01 truck. If I would of changed to the NEW GM card all I would be able to use was $1500. Just used all my Gm card points on my 02 Deville. Plus my GM employee discount, rebate and Caddy 2k Loyalty Cert. So the change won't effect me for a couple of years down the road !.......geo
The change is effective 8/1/03. I purchased my 02 Sliverado this way, GM points & supplier discount. Was not happy with the discount, wasn't any better than what I originally was going to get the truck at, dealer cost. About a month or 3 ago I received a letter explaining the changes. **In July of 03 GM will offer a new a card, GM Extended Family Card, which you can combine with the discount. Good thing, unlimited annual earnings. Bad thing, only 1% earnings on credit. Details at 866-825-8187 or gmcard.com/extendedfamily.
Do you get the Employee discount or the GM supplier discount ? GM employee disc. is larger than the supplier deal. Different rules tho.......When I bought my 01 truck they would only allow me $250 bucks on my GM sidesaddle cert. instead of $ 1000 bucks. Something about combining Emp. dis., rebate and 2.9% financing.....Good deal tho .........geo
Regarding your "black" GM card, when was that issued? My current card was issued 8/02. I'll have to check when I request the discount form if the earnings are eligible.
Reguarding the Black GM Card, Mine was issued 10/95. About a year or 2 ago they offered a switch to the new GM Card. Which has caps on different vehicles, but no limit on yearly earnings. Thus far I am glad I stayed with the old. I am thinking about cashing out on a new GMC or Chev truck. I am nearing that 3k cap.(black card cap) How close to invoice are any of you recent buyers getting? Thanks, BJL
I think it was around 95 too. I used the earnings for the first time in 97.
Bjl3: If you have the black or blue card You can use whatever points you have. Unless they changed it from last year ? I got almost 3k off my 02 Caddy this year that i had built up on the card.
Call GM Card ahead of time. Tell them you have the OLD ! card. If you don't they will try to set your limits to the NEW cards limit of $1500 on a new GM truck. All models vary tho ! They tried to slip me the mickey on my 01 and 02 purchases...Beware.......geo
I want to upgrade my lights - as some of you know when you get past 40 your night vision starts to drop. Anyway my questions are.
Does anyone know of a bulb upgrade that fits in the standard GM fog lights?
Is it worth it to upgrade to the PIAA type headllight bulbs. Some are close to $100 per set, but others are less than $50. Obviously the higher cost bulbs will be better - anyone with first hand knowledge / experience?
Changed tranny fluid this past weekend, or at least 4 qts of it! Could not get drain plug off bottom of pan. Started to strip metric bolt head!!! Would have made job a whole lot easier. Used old method of dropping pan. But I was unable to get pan off! Would not clear ebrake mechanism, and crossover pipe. I was able to get the fliter out though, and replaced with WIX, and added Mobil 1 ATF. Fluid coming out looked pink as new. Transmission is the 4l60e. Also, Ryanbab, I noticed you did your front diff. Did you remove cover, or use the plug and fill plug? What type of fluid did you replace with? At the same time , I tried to replace fuel filter, but on both sides, the fuel line nuts had rusted badly. Thanks to the dealer who did it the first time, and did not add any anti seize, or something !@# Tried rust penetrant, but so far, have not been able to get off. Any ideas? thanks - Tom S
"Did you remove cover, or use the plug and fill plug? What type of fluid did you replace with?"
I just took off the fill and drain plugs. Let it drain and refilled (that was a PITA, you cant tip the bottle up to make it flow easier you will see what i mean when you do it)
I put in valvoline 80W-90 (only fluid i could find). I wanted to find 80W-90 mobil but no one around here stocks it.
I have the 4.3L V-6. I bought a plain jane 2001 ext. cab 2wd Silverado with the v-6, auto tran and A/C. I just wanted a plain truck that I could use for yard work and light hauling. The v-6 is adequate for my needs. I went from a loaded 4wd Cherokee to this truck. The 4.0 inline six Cherokee would run circles around this truck though. I don't have the engine knock but do have a vibration at 1100 rpm. See my prior posts for the problems I've had.
I called the dealership this morning and they said they'd replace the intermediate steering shaft tomorrow. Hopefully it will solve the problem. I'm not willing to take a loss by getting rid of the truck. It's paid for and I want to drive it til the wheels fall off.
I don't believe there is $1000 difference, but that the cost for the 4x4 is higher, and if the vehicle is purchased with a supplier discount, they'll knock off $100.
I was able to get 255/70-16's put on, and it really smoothed out the ride. I got a fair price on Yokohama Geolander's and after hearing so much about them decided to try them out. The warranty is for 60,000mi (yeah,right!!), but I opted to pay an extra $50 for full tire replacement if anything happens to the tire. We'll see how that turns out. I was about fed up with those damn Goodyear Wranglers and wearing out after 24,000mi.
I just got an on-line quote for an '03 Silverado 4x4 for 6yr/50k at $$1005. Back in the spring of '01 from the same site, I had a quote for my '01 2wd Silverado for the same coverage at $990. Both were for $0 deduct.
You can get brighter bulbs for the factory foglights. The stockers are about 24 watts, you can get 37 watt or 50 watt bulbs in the same bulb type. The 37 watt ones are noticeably brighter than the stockers. I've heard several reports of the 50 watt bulbs melting the plastic foglamp housing, so I would stay away from them.
I found the 37 watt bulbs at Kragen's (Shuck's, Checker's)
Do you have a part number for the brighter 37 watt fog light replacement bulb? We've got Schucks, Pep Boys, and NAPA around here. Any problems with the 37 watt bulb melting the housing?
I just got quoted for GM Major Guard on my Y2K 2500 Ext. cab Silverado w/34500 miles on ticker 7yr/100k ext. warranty the following: 0$ Ded- $3720 $100 ded.- $2965 $200 ded.- $2405
Warranty Gold Diamond Plan $50 ded.- $1254 7yr/100k while I'm still under the factory 3/36. The truck is still considered "new" until it reaches 36k then they'll quote used policy pricing.
Guess who will probably get the sale........GM isn't even competative in it's pricing!
I just purchased a new 03' 2500HD 4x4. My previous truck was a 95' 1500 Silverado 4x4 with the 5.7 motor. I added Thorley headers to the 95 and installed 3" exhaust all the way back. It still struggled up te steep grades. I tow a travel trailer (6000 lbs) to the mountains and the desert. I carry extra gas and 25 gallons of water for prospecting. Going up the mountain passes used to be a real chore with the 95 but the 6.0 engine in the new truck has a lot more pulling power. The 03 truck came equipped with the heavy duty automatic trans and a 4:10 rear end. I have replaced the air cleaner with a K & N and now I wonder if it is worth the extra money to replace the factory muffler with a low restriction muffler and if it is worth it which one is the one to use. I really dont want to go to headers beccause they caused their own sort of problems (burned spark plug wires). I'm looking for pulling power and I'd love it if the truck sounded a little more like a truck.
Remember to compare more than the dollar cost for the extended maintenance contracts.
Not only is what they cover an issue, the rest of the story is what they will do to "repair" the problem. Will it be a new component, remanufactured, or plain old used part?
Is the replacement part warranteed or is it a one time fix for each component?
Read the fine print all the way through so there are no surprises.
Also check with your local service advisor and ask how easy it is on claims, how long do they take to pay on a claim and so on an so forth. It could be the best warranty in the world, but if they take 90 days to pay, your truck sits for 90 days unless you want to pay yourself....
Comments
How else can I do this research??? I bought my '00 Silverado 1/2 ton with GMO (ordered in Aug'99 and took delivery in 6 weeks). I would like to get a good estimate on pricing for an '02 or '03 Silverado HD 2500.
Even if someone can run a example on that site for me, I would be deeply indebted!!!
Again, any more help is appreciated!
Bill
......Revitupfaster
How else can I do this research??? I bought my '00 Silverado 1/2 ton with GMO (ordered in Aug'99 and took delivery in 6 weeks). I would like to get a good estimate on pricing for an '02 or '03 Silverado HD 2500.
Even if someone can run a example on that site for me, I would be deeply indebted!!!
Again, any more help is appreciated!
Bill
SS#. I can give you aGM phone# to call
direct about pricing. But you still need
SS# number and the VIN# of the vehicle you
want ! 1-800-235-4646.
My family has bought 10 new GMs this year.
Painless, Easy....Ya gotta shop your trade
around tho. Unless its old and beat. I
trade my 4x4 GM ecabs every 3 years and
trade in (in NY)is awesome ! Low payments
and new truck to snowplow, tow, & haul !
Good luck keep us posted !.........geo
BTW: The avg. GMS price is roughly $4500
off sticker on a 33k truck
will whip out the invoice with the GMS
price right there on any new vehicle in
stock. As long as your serious and tell
them you are a GM employee family buyer.
I have had no problems yet !........geo
I have the ride control suspension on my 2K 1500Xcab. It makes a world of difference in the handling characteristics when you load down the bed. It also comes with 46mm shocks instead of the standard 32mm. I think the hd suspension only comes with 42mm shocks.
Mike .T.
Something to remember - Lubricating the i-shaft is not something you should have to do on a regular basis. The lube is GM's temporary solution to put your vehicle past the warranty period before it re-occurs. If your vehicle has low miles, get it to the dealer ASAP. The problem will most likely re-occur before your warranty runs out. If it happens the second time, insist that they replace the shaft.
Mike .T.
I did have the shaft replaced about a yr ago. Problem came back worse. I have had the lube and all is fine
the dealer name and address & VIN.
I can give ya the GMS price if the
dealer won"t.....Just post your email
address here and I can get ya the
EXACT GMS price.........geo
Also 31000 miles
I had this same problem on my Y2K 2500 2wd Ext. Cab, they replaced the shaft prior to issuing this new TSB to lube it.
This was posted by Lauriet on the 2001 Silverado Vibrations topic......
TSB #00-02-35-0031 Clunking Noise Under Hood and can be felt in the Steering Wheel
Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.
Correction
Important
DO NOT REPLACE THE FOLLOWING INTERMEDIATE STEERING SHAFT P/Ns
26085548
26049343
26083324
26088325
Remove the intermediate shaft from the vehicle and lubricate the intermediate shaft with a Steering Column Intermediate Shaft Lubrication Kit, P/N 26098419.
Ray T.
What engine do you have?, do you have the notorious "knock" many are afflicted with ??
Ray T.
Thanks!
Stef
The kit may be cheap but lubricating the shaft should not be a routine maintenance item for the owner. I have a 1977 Silverado that has never had any kind of rattle in the steering.
The center yoke of the driveshaft on my 2500HD started binding at about 15K miles. The dealer took the driveshaft off, filed the edges off the splines, greased it up and put it all back together. Didn't bind any more, but it started a bad vibration between 35-45 mph. The dealer had the driveshaft balanced and the vibration stopped. Now it's 5K miles later and the binding is starting again. The dealer tells me that the yoke will have to be greased periodically. I challenged him to show me where removing the driveshaft and greasing the yoke was a routine maintenance procedure and of course he couldn't. The driveshaft is being replaced.
No one should have to pull their steering shaft to lubricate it every xx miles and I'm sure as heck not going to pull my driveshaft every 5K miles to grease the yoke.
Neither of these procedures is identified as a routine (or even a non-routine) maintenance item in the tech manual. These systems should perform without maintenance for the life of the vehicle.
Mike .T.
This was back in april of 00
again ! Employee GMS deals are affected too.
Not sure when changes are in effect tho!
Sure glad i kept my OLD black card....Was
able to get almost 3k off my 01 truck. If
I would of changed to the NEW GM card all
I would be able to use was $1500. Just used
all my Gm card points on my 02 Deville. Plus
my GM employee discount, rebate and Caddy 2k
Loyalty Cert. So the change won't effect me for
a couple of years down the road !.......geo
About a month or 3 ago I received a letter explaining the changes.
**In July of 03 GM will offer a new a card, GM Extended Family Card, which you can combine with the discount. Good thing, unlimited annual earnings. Bad thing, only 1% earnings on credit.
Details at 866-825-8187 or gmcard.com/extendedfamily.
GM supplier discount ? GM employee disc.
is larger than the supplier deal. Different
rules tho.......When I bought my 01 truck
they would only allow me $250 bucks on
my GM sidesaddle cert. instead of $ 1000
bucks. Something about combining Emp. dis.,
rebate and 2.9% financing.....Good deal tho
.........geo
I am thinking about cashing out on a new GMC or Chev truck. I am nearing that 3k cap.(black card cap) How close to invoice are any of you recent buyers getting?
Thanks,
BJL
the earnings for the first time in 97.
Bjl3: If you have the black or blue card
You can use whatever points you have.
Unless they changed it from last year ?
I got almost 3k off my 02 Caddy this
year that i had built up on the card.
you have the OLD ! card. If you don't
they will try to set your limits to
the NEW cards limit of $1500 on a new
GM truck. All models vary tho !
They tried to slip me the mickey on my
01 and 02 purchases...Beware.......geo
Does anyone know of a bulb upgrade that fits in the standard GM fog lights?
Is it worth it to upgrade to the PIAA type headllight bulbs. Some are close to $100 per set, but others are less than $50. Obviously the higher cost bulbs will be better - anyone with first hand knowledge / experience?
-David
2wd versus 4wd. There is a $1,000.00 difference in cost between the two.
Walter
Used old method of dropping pan. But I was unable to get pan off! Would not clear ebrake mechanism, and crossover pipe. I was able to get the fliter out though, and replaced with WIX, and added Mobil 1 ATF. Fluid coming out looked pink as new. Transmission is the 4l60e. Also, Ryanbab, I noticed you did your front diff. Did you remove cover, or use the plug and fill plug? What type of fluid did you replace with?
At the same time , I tried to replace fuel filter, but on both sides, the fuel line nuts had rusted badly. Thanks to the dealer who did it the first time, and did not add any anti seize, or something !@# Tried rust penetrant, but so far, have not been able to get off. Any ideas?
thanks - Tom S
I just took off the fill and drain plugs. Let it drain and refilled (that was a PITA, you cant tip the bottle up to make it flow easier you will see what i mean when you do it)
I put in valvoline 80W-90 (only fluid i could find). I wanted to find 80W-90 mobil but no one around here stocks it.
I called the dealership this morning and they said they'd replace the intermediate steering shaft tomorrow. Hopefully it will solve the problem. I'm not willing to take a loss by getting rid of the truck. It's paid for and I want to drive it til the wheels fall off.
have seen the worksheets on both cost and msrp.
The difference in cost between a 2wd and 4wd is 1,000.00 ona 3yr plan...
I found the 37 watt bulbs at Kragen's (Shuck's, Checker's)
Mike L
Any problems with the 37 watt bulb melting the housing?
0$ Ded- $3720
$100 ded.- $2965
$200 ded.- $2405
Warranty Gold Diamond Plan $50 ded.- $1254 7yr/100k while I'm still under the factory 3/36. The truck is still considered "new" until it reaches 36k then they'll quote used policy pricing.
Guess who will probably get the sale........GM isn't even competative in it's pricing!
Ray T.
Mike L
My owners manual does not even show a replacement bulb number.
Thanks for the info.
Not only is what they cover an issue, the rest of the story is what they will do to "repair" the problem. Will it be a new component, remanufactured, or plain old used part?
Is the replacement part warranteed or is it a one time fix for each component?
Read the fine print all the way through so there are no surprises.
Walter