Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Chevy Silverado



  • akjbmwakjbmw Posts: 231
    When you read the contract, does it indicate that they will replace failed parts with new or used?
    The coverage by Lithia and First Extended Service on a failed transmission is to replace with a used unit from an auto wrecker. Not repaired. Used unit replacement. I was, and still am not, positively impressed.
    Bottom Line. Don't be surprised. If the used unit gets you down the road the same as the original, I guess it's all good.
  • ivpushivpush Posts: 4
    Anyone else experience this. I thought there was a TSB on this, but I can't find it and the dealer thought it was on 1999 models only. I only have 800 miles left under warranty. It is not a big deal, but I have to slam the rear doors several times to get them to latch completly.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    email me at

    I have that TSB in word format and can send it to you
  • mugstermugster Posts: 16
    3rd and 4th Door Hard to Close When Cold (Replace Latches) #00-08-64-016

    1999-2000 Chevrolet and GMC C/K Pickup Models (Silverado and Sierra)

    Some customers may comment that the 3rd or 4th door is hard to close when cold.

    There was a change to an internal bumper in the latch and the removal of the primary door seal internal plug.

    Verify proper alignment between the upper and lower striker before proceeding to the next step.
    Replace the upper and lower latch assemblies using the part numbers listed below. Refer to the Doors sub-section of the Service Manual.

    Remove the primary door seal internal plug across from the lower latch assembly.
    Parts Information
    Part Number Description
    15057687 Latch Asm - LH Upper
    15057688 Latch Asm - RH Upper
    15063698 Latch Asm - Lower

    Parts are currently available from GMSPO.

    Warranty Information
    For vehicles repaired under warranty, use:

    Labor Operation Description Labor Time
    B4650 Latch and/or Wedge, Rear Door -Replace (Right Door-Upper and Lower) 0.6 hr
    B4652 Latch and/or Wedge, Rear Door -Replace (Left Door-Upper and Lower) 0.6 hr
  • k2riderk2rider Posts: 21
    I don't mean "how much did you pay", but how much over invoice? I know when I bought our last truck, we basically could go in with a "we'll pay X amount over invoice" concept.

    We're looking into the 2003 2500HD with Duramax/Allison and the sticker on those babies is SCARY. They are $6-7 thousand over invoice. I refuse to pay that amount.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    2000 Ext cab LS Z71 $500 under invoice
  • allchevyallchevy Posts: 28
    They don't negotiate on the diesels.
    $500 over invoice is availble on the gas trucks at a motivated dealer.
    Good luck-Chevy quality is way down.
  • HELP!!!!!

    Just got back from a short road trip (600 Miles) - but had to complete with a rental car.

    I have a 2002 2500 HD with 6000 engine and the 4 sp auto. Purchased last October with 10,400 Miles.

    Going down I80 Sunday nite with Cruise set @ 75 MPH and all of sudden the Truck red lines. I shut the truck off and coast to the shoulder. Start it up with no problems, but when I put it in drive - nothing - no reverse either. Tried in 4 high & low.

    Had it towed (Roadside approved & then canceled tow) to Yemm Chevrolet (51 miles) in Galesburg @ my $$$$. Called the dealer Monday Morning and was told that it doesn't move - must be a problem with the trans (DA). Tuesday afternoon they push it in the garage - still don't know what is wrong - have to follow Chevy's procedure - has not taken it apart.

    The dealer and Customer assistance is blaming each other and not providing any answers (or commitment for rebursement).

    Has any one heard of this problem?

    Should the complete trans be replaced?

    Do I have to worry about the engine with the high RPM's?

    Any information on the process for the "lemon Law" in Illinois?

    Loved it before the problems, but ?????
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    Dump it and get a manual....
  • rayt2rayt2 Posts: 1,208
    Mug: Thanks for the posting of the TSB on the doors, I printed it and added it to the file for my truck on the "things to do before warranty expiration"

    K2: 2000 Silverado Ext.Cab 2500 LS 2wd - $500 under inv.$26500 w/tx/title etc., ordered thru a dealer in nearby Connecticut. See my profile for how I equipped my truck.

    DonJ: You payed for a tow with the 3/36 warranty still in effect??? Wrong thing to do! As you now know cause your fighting to get your money back for a covered expense! Then again the warranty covers a tow to the "nearest dealer", 51 miles sounds like you passed by a few GM dealers but maybe I'm wrong. More then likely you will get a rebuilt tranny from GM (they take it to a shop or have the tranny brought to them to replace, or if your lucky they give you a brand new one outta the crate). There should be no engine problems since you shut the truck down immediately as you should have. Illinois lemon law? go to your State Attorney Generals Office webpage to download the forms and see whats involved. I don't think this one incident will qualify you for the lemon law.

    Ray T.
  • ivpushivpush Posts: 4
    I noticed rail dust on my 2000 silverado in may 01. The dealer clay barred it and it was fine. This summer, I noticed it was back. I have my truck at the dealer for last minute warranty work (35400 miles) and mentioned it to the dealer(different dealer than did the original fix)and they said GM only allows them one time to fix it and after that, I'm on my own. I called GM customer service. She called the original dealer and they have a record of diaagnosing rail dust, but not that they clay barred it. However, he said it was out of the 12 month/12,000 warranty. I said that YOU have record of rail dust when it was in that time frame. He said it didn't matter(things like this are why I am at another dealer). The regional manager is coming to town tomorrow and the dealer guy said he would ask the reg. mgr. if it should be covered.
    In my mind, this is not right and it should be taken care of. Also, the dealer mentioned nothing before about neutralizing it, just clay barring it. IF I let this go (if they don't neutralize/buff it), will this cause sheet metal problems or just cosmetic (white truck)?
    Thank You
  • sonjaabsonjaab Posts: 1,057 had to pay for a tow ?
    My 94 GMC Yukon died in Alex Bay NY and
    Gm flatbedded it to Fulton NY GMC dealer
    where I bought it(over 100 miles) no charge !
    And I didn't ask them too either ??????
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    If the regional manager approves the dealer claying your truck it would be a matter of goodwill. It would be hard to prove that the raildust you're describing is two years old. Same goes for hail.

    I would just go out and buy a bar of Mother's and clay the truck myself and add a couple of coats of wax. Isn't that hard to do vs. banging against the wall trying to get GM to do it.

    Just my opinion.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    i agree do it yourself if you can. You probably will do a way better job anyways
  • imaginosimaginos Posts: 27
    I just caught up on the message board and saw the posts about the rear doors being hard to close - TSB - etc.

    Mine seem to close on my 01 1500 Ext Cab, however, they don't always completely latch. They look latched and the door panels line up, but, if you don't get it fully latched - with the front door still open - you can pull on the upper section of the door (near the upper latch) or sometimes the lower section of the door (near the lower latch) and if not fully latched, you'll be able to pull the door away from the latch about 1/4 to 1/2 inch - tugging aggressively. If it is fully latched, neither the top or the bottom of the doors will budge. I think this has been getting worse over time, especially on the driver's side rear door since I open it about 4 times a day.

    Is this similar to the cold latch problem? Is there any adjustment that can be made?

    Also, I'm trying to nail this down for sure, but I think that if I hit significant wash-board bumps, or go over man-hole covers just right, I'm pretty sure that the upper latch on the rear driver's side door unlatches - going into the same state as what I explained above. Still trying to verify this for sure. Sure seems like the doors are all getting looser, not latching as tight, and going over bumps, I hear lots of bad rattle noises from them - as if not fully shut - not just the crap inside rattling. Just don't think it's well designed. Anyone else noticing this?

    Last point. My brother just bought a new GMC 1500, and as I opened his door, there was a lot more un-latch force on the door handle. As if it latches much tighter than mine. Is there a way to adjust this to make the latch hold the door tighter - this is regarding the front doors mosttly?
  • mantos1mantos1 Posts: 1
    I bought my truck 2002 Sivarado LT 2500HD Duramax Diesel for $500 over invoice. They tried to charge me marketing and advertising fees but I refused to pay that overhead cost.
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    my doors latch very tight except in cold weather. The rear doors wont close all the time. I have even had the rear drivers side door bounce back when i slammed it. Didnt latch at all. After 5 slams it usually seals up tight. Ill probably take it in this winter when it happens since i am almost to the 36K mile warranty being up
  • Is anyone aware of a driveline clunk with 2000 Silverado’s or is it just me?
    I have an automatic trans. that makes a clunking noise whenever the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released. Is this normal?
    Any comments are welcome.
  • b4zb4z Posts: 3,372
    We have a dealer here in Charleston, SC that does $98.00 over invoice and then charges a $179.00 advertising fee on top of that.

    Last year they sold 1200 trucks and only 70 cars.
    Very easy to deal with and a very good reputation.

    Last year I bought my Impala from them and after finding out that there was $1000 dealer cashback that the other dealer had not told me about.
    Marchant not only told me about it, they had "$1000 cashback" painted on the windshield!

    After I bought the car i found that there had been some paint work done on the driver's side door at the factory. I went to talk to them about it, and they had another car sitting there for me in case I wanted to change!!! I decided to keep the car I had because of the later build date.
    Ravenel, SC.
  • imaginosimaginos Posts: 27
    Sounds like the Eaton Locker to me - which would be normal. Also, could be backlash in the rear end. Mine does it, my Cherokee did it (until my wife piled it up yesterday :(

    Unless it is quite extreme, I'd say it's normal - and no, I don't work at a dealer!!!
  • ryanbabryanbab Posts: 7,240
    TSB for a new nickel plated slip yoke
  • Depends who I talk to at the dealer, the story seems to change, but they will reimburse me the $210 for the tow - just need the original receipt. They ordered an new transmission. I don't know why the delay, but they expect it to be done early next week - towed in Sunday nite, starting looking at it late Tuesday afternoon and found the problem and Thursday.

    I was even told that they would deliver the truck the 200 miles and pick up their rental.

    Still don't know what the problem was w/ the trans and will have to wait to see if they hold up their bargain. At least my father can advertise the wonderful service that I didn't receive at Yemm Chevrolet in Galesburg.

    If not... I will have to contact the BBB, Attorney General, maybe a file a claim in small claims court....

    I did talk to the Service Manager from the dealer I purchased from and he could believe the crap that was going on. He did contact his regional manager to see if he could assist me. Can't complain about that service, especially since he's too far to get my service business (Chicago to Neenah Wi.

    Why driving to Neenah WI is to have the service done doesn't make sense. If I buy a GM for my wive, I would have no problem driving from Chicago to purchase from that dealer (Bergstrom's - nice people to do business with).

    Also, still waiting for that return phone call from Chevy Customer (non) assistance - she was going to follow up Wednesday and that is even after two messages that was left to remind her.
  • Guys,

    Just traded in my 99 Rado Z-71, 5.3 for an '02 Rad Z-71, 5.3. Got everything I wanted too... locker, autotrac, power seats... a lot of nice goodies.

    Two problems. The truck came with factory "rough finish" black flares. I backed up next to the wifes tahoe and pulled the right rear fender flare half way off. DAMN! Does anyone know the partnumber of this so I can look it up? Also, any good tips on where to replace it? The dealer said $238 for ONE replacement and I said forget it, I will pull the others off if that is the best it can be.

    Another question I had is does anyone have the part number to the tan color fold out cup assembly? I got the number of the graphite one, but I have a tan truck and need that number. I really like the cupholder from my 99 and would like to put one in my 2002.

    If anyone can help me, please email to

    Thanks guys,


    PS - my 99 had 55K on it, went through many states, hauled a lot of loads, played in the mud, pulled others out, and still was a dang nice, "near new" truck when it went to the dealer. That was a good 'un and I will remember it fondley...
  • arttartt Posts: 14
    sloppy manufacturing.

    Info - Driveline Clunk #99-04-20-002A
    Driveline Clunk 2002 and Prior Light Duty Truck Models.
    This bulletin is being revised to add model Years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-20-002 (Section 04 -- Driveline/Axle).
    The condition described in this bulletin should not be confused with Driveline Stop Clunk, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 964101R (Chevrolet 92-265-7A, GMC Truck 91-4A-77, Oldsmobile 47-71-20A, GM of Canada 93-4A-100) or Bump/Clunk Upon Acceleration, described in Corporate Bulletin Number 99-04-21-004.
    Some owners of light duty trucks equipped with automatic transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise when shifting between Park and Drive, Park and Reverse, or Drive and Reverse.
    Similarly, owners of vehicles equipped with automatic or manual transmissions may comment that the vehicle exhibits a clunk noise while driving when the accelerator is quickly depressed and then released.
    Whenever there are two or more gears interacting with one another, there must be a certain amount of clearance between those gears in order for the gears to operate properly. This clearance or freeplay (also known as lash) can translate into a clunk noise whenever the gear is loaded and unloaded quickly, or whenever the direction of rotation is reversed. The more gears you have in a system, the more freeplay the total system will have.
    The clunk noise that owners sometimes hear may be the result of a buildup of freeplay (lash) between the components in the driveline.
    For example, the potential for a driveline clunk would be greater in a 4-wheel drive or all-wheel drive vehicle than a 2-wheel drive vehicle. This is because in addition to the freeplay from the rear axle gears, the universal joints, and the transmission (common to both vehicles), the 4-wheel drive transfer case gears (and their associated clearances) add additional freeplay to the driveline.
    In service, dealers are discouraged from attempting to repair driveline clunk conditions for the following reasons:
    Comments of driveline clunk are almost never the result of one individual component with
    excessive lash, but rather the result of the added affect of freeplay (or lash) present in all of the driveline components. Because all of the components in the driveline have a certain amount of lash by design, changing driveline components may not result in a satisfactory lash reduction.
    While some owners may find the clunk noise objectionable, this will not adversely affect
    durability or performance.
    © Copyright General Motors Corporation. All Rights Reserved.
  • msb just go to the dealership and tell them you need the cupholder in have to order for a 2001 though
  • I have a 2002 2500 HD 4WD, 6.0 Crew Cab with about 11 months and 9k miles on the odometer. I have a few minor annoyances, and I'd like to know if others have had them, too.

    1) The seatbelts lock routinely on normal stops. I come to a lot of 2-ways here in Texas. When I try to lean forward for a better view of the traffic, I get held up by the seatbelt. I have to come to a complete stop and let the truck settle for a bit before the belt will release me. Sometimes I still need to shake it loose. Sometimes it even locks while I pull it out to buckle. It seems to me the belt is a little too easy to lock. Is this either common or adjustable?

    2) The "check coolant level" message comes on occasionally shortly after starting. It stays until the truck has been shut off. The first time my dealer told me that a bubble sometimes forms on the sensor, and I should ignore it unless I see the engine temp rise. It happens about every 2 or 3 months.

    3) The HVAC fan blows no air on setting 1. I get airflow through the system when the truck moves (which is the difference between off and 1) but when I stop, the airflow noticeable ceases too. Is this by design, or is it a fan problem?

    I know these problems are minor compared to tranny failure or piston slap, but I'd like to know if they are typical or correctable. This is the best place I know of to get a straight answer.
  • GM has increased the rebate on Silverado from $2500 to $3000. Unfortunately, those of us that purchased our trucks last week cannot take advantage of this increase. I have contacted GM regarding this, and "customer service" is unwilling to return to me $500 (even in the form of GM card points). They simply sent me a "form letter", TWICE. Other retailers (Circuit City, for example) are willing to honor a sale price retroactive for 30 days. GM should have anticipated the ire it has created in those faithful customers that purchased new vehicles over the last couple of weeks. Simply stated, this is bad business.
  • obyoneobyone Posts: 8,054
    is nothing new. While most companies strive for excellence in customer service, those trying to get any kind of service from GM is SOL, IMHO.
  • mledtjemledtje Posts: 1,123
    1. Quite common. Happens to my wife in both of our trucks. Seldom happens to me. No obvious reason why it affects her more, but it does. And it affects you too. No know cure. We even had the seat belts changed in our 99 due to a recall. Still the same.

    2. The only time I've had the 'Check Coolant Level' light come on, was when I parked on the shoulder of the road with the passenger side lower than the driver's side. I added about 1" of water to the reservoir, and no more warnings.

    3. Mine blows gently on setting 1. I get much more air when the truck is moving than by the blower.

    Mike L
This discussion has been closed.