Chevy Silverado

z71bill

I swapped the 285 75 16 tires (& stock wheels) from my 1999 Z-71 to my 2001 2WD Tahoe. No problem with clearance. Looks great and improved the handling. The ride is a little stiffer but not harsh. I am running 45 PSI.

They will stay on for a trip to Colorado (from Houston - 2,600 miles). The stock Firestone Wilderness LE's can not handle the snow.

IMO all 1999 and later Full size 1/2 ton Chevy trucks and SUV'S can handle 285 75 16's (on stock wheels), this is based on my personal experience with 2 trucks, plus I have seen dozens more with this size tire.

The 305 70 16 will fit - but on stock wheels it causes the center of the tire to wear out prematurely.

I now have 265 70 16 tires on the 1999 Z-71 - the 10 year old boy the lives down the street told me he thinks my truck looks wimpy. "What happened to your tires?" I guess I will just hide it in the garage until we get home!

donaldm1

What is a suggested tire pressure for 2002 8100 Allison Silvarado HD when running empty. The sticker says 50 frt and 80 rear, but that is for maximum GVW rating. I normally pump them up when pulling my 10,000 trailer, but I want a better ride empty. I used 45 and 50 on my last Ford, but this front end seems much heavier. The truck is excellent so far (8500 miles) and is a real puller with the trailer.

noobie1

If you really want an accurate measure do the chalk test, front and rear. I found, after doing this test on my truck ('02 8.1L/Allison, 4WD,ExtCab,LB), the OEM 245/10plys required 52lbs front, 50lbs rear. I've since gone to an 8 ply requiring less pressure and giving a much better ride.

-David

rayt2

I have the original LT245/16E Steeltex on my 2500 shortbed, 2wd ext cab & 5.3. Since day one I run 45 front & 40 rear when empty. I go to 50 front and 65 rear when towing my 28' travel trailer, and camping equip./firewood etc. in bed. I have never had a heavy enough load to go to 80 psi in rears and presently have 37k on these tires. Will be replacing them by end of summer 03. No complaints on tire wear following this guideline for myself. I figure I'll get maybe 40 to 45k on these tires before their replaced.

Ray T.

johnredcorn

Hey gang, where can I find a website that interprets the codes on the service parts stickers located in the glove compartment of the trucks and under the trunk lid of the cars?

ryanbab

Site is temporaily down but try this

http://www.gm-trucks.com/RPO_index.shtml

mugster

You can bypass the non-functional main page and go directly to the RPO list by year.

Try the site Ryan mentioned, only use RPO_1999 or RPO_2000 etc. instead of RPO_index

example: www.gm-trucks.com/RPO_2002/shtml

I left off the http because Edmunds software will highlight and underline the link. You may then not be able to see the underscore after the RPO.

Mike

ricsch

Anyone have a set of custom-fit seat covers for your Silverado 40/20/40 split front seat? If so, what brand, type of material, cost, and how do you like them? I'm looking at getting some but looking for suggestions. Thanks!

Also, anyone notice on the 40/20/40 seat fold-down center section on the passenger side that where there is a stitched area, a piece of plastic pushing outward on the fabric?

bowtieman1

Did alot of digging and found out that GM dealer service departments replace alot of front hub assemblies on several vehicle lines. The right front hub assembly on my truck is $180 for the part not $480 as I was originally told. Ran into a guy over the weekend who also had the same exact problem on his comparable GMC truck. Same year and exact same mileage. He also did alot of digging and found that the front hub assemblies have a sealed bearing that can go dry. When this happens the hub develops enough slop in it that it can score the face of the ABS sensor that is located in the hub. The sensor is not fixed into the hub it can be replaced, this is also different than I was originally told. If the bearing is bad enough that the sensor face can be scored than the hub should be replaced as if you just replace the sensor the new sensor will be scored shortly after installation. However there is another potential cause & fix that should be explored. The design also allows for rust and scale build up between the sensor face and the surface it monitors. This can cause the same symptoms I had. In some cases it may only take a cleaning to resolve the problem. Simply remove the sensor, held in by an allen screw, gently remove the sensor, clean out the hole and re-install the sensor. Hope this helps any who have the same problem in the future. Thanks to all who responded.

johnredcorn

Thanks guys. Both avenues of approach are still closed but I'll just keep banging until it opens. Anyone else have a site that will interpret manufacturers' option codes found under trunk lids and in glove compartments? Obviously, all I'm looking for is Chevrolet.

ryanbab

what codes do you want to know?

mugster

I just tried the website. It is up and running.

It gives the codes for 1998 throught 2002.

Mike

gator36

I just wanted to send kudos out to a dealership in the Fort Worth area of TX.

Hudiberg Chevrolet helped to keep my Christmas vacation on track.
I wok up Christmas morning at my In-laws and had to move my truck for some reason. Upon starting it up it threw a code and had the SES light on (Service Engine Soon). The thing was running kinda bad and being 1500 miles from home scheduled to leave in 2 days, this could be a problem. The following morning my father in law followed me to Hudiberg Chevrolet as I dropped of my truck. The service writer was ready to take my truck straight back to a Tech as I was waiting. I went back to the In-laws and was called by 9:00 am letting me know in 30 minutes my truck would be ready. True to their word it was.
 The problem was a bad fuel injector. A $500.00 minimum service call that was paid for by my GMPP major gaurd warranty. This warranty has almost paid for itself in one visit.

Walter (gator)

broph

I'm looking to buy a 4x4 extcab silverado soon & would like some feedback on these older models. Does one year have more problems than the other & at what extent. I hopefully assume that you people who post are loyal chevy truck enthusists & have had one of the older models. I would appreciate any feedback that you could give. These are pretty much the only years that my budget will allow right now. I had a '99 before trading it in for a car for my wife, and like that alot except it was 2wd. Thanks.

mtrammell

Tom,

The only continual problem that I remember with pre 99 (new body style) was with their brakes. Had a 97 and a 98 1500 Silverado and the brakes were a constant source of trouble. I travel hiway most of the time, so brakes should last me a long time. I never could get past 25K miles before needing a brake job.

Mike .T.

broph

mtrammell - Thanks, the brakes are probably the best thing that I'm good at, outside of oil changes. With all the vehicles that I bought they all need brakes. I currently drive an Explorer & that thing needs brakes every year. I appreciate the input.

txyank1

for either water pumps or fuel pumps going bad but don't rememebr which. I had one that went bad too. Dam it's Hell to get old!

bowtieman1

Had a 96 rado, Z71. Only real problem was what was called the 2-3 driveline clunk. When the truck shifted from 2nd to 3rd it sounded like the driveshaft clanked (a better word to describe it). Went to several dealers, all said that it should not do that and all came back with "its normal" Moved to NE Ohio and found a dealer with a service manager who is a expert trans man. He took my truck for a week. tore it apart (still under warranty) and came back with nothing can be done. Just GM and it suppliers with alot of slop in their part tolerencing. Mine was a worst case build. The clunk was loud at times. Tried all the tricks to fix, DS lube..... still clunked. Sold the truck with 90 K. Has 140K on it today and still running strong. When you test drive find a smoth road and with windows up and all assessories off listen to it shift. Take the windows down and same thing. It never left me on the side of the road but it was annoying. Other than that it was a great truck. Didnt have brake or other problems. pulled a Bass Boat alot with no problems. Bet you cant wait to get outa that explorer. Good luck

ponm

I just bought a used 2000 silverado with the 5.3 v8 z-71 package. This is the first v-8 I have ever owned and the first automatic I have ever owned. It seems around 50 miles and hour and going up a light incline the transmission begins searching for the right gear. It seems to go back and fourth between gears. Is this normal, I just give it more gas and it downshifts and runs smoothly again.
scott

obyone

Its normal.

broph

txyank1 & bowtieman1 - thanks for the input.

Tom

erikheiker

That constant shifting up and down is known as "hunting" and shouldn't be happening on your truck. This was common on older vehicles, but today's transmissions are computer controlled and designed to prevent hunting. I've never had it happen on my 2001. I never even had a problem with my 89 S-15 until it got covered with volcanic ash. Obviously I can't diagnose your problem, but it could be as simple as getting your transmission flashed. But then again....

harvestmooon

Where can I look up TSB's for my truck. Also have a Camaro Id like to look them up for.Thanks in advance.
J.

rayt2

http://www.alldata.com

They give a list but the full text you have to pay for.

Ray T.

hknoepfle

I am trying to determine whether the dealer has been hitting all of my grease fitting during routine maintenance. I took my 2000 2500 2WD in for an oil change and lube. The dealer overfilled the oil by a full quart and I needed a cheater bar to get the oil plug out. I drained the extra quart and will take it in and give it back to the dealer. I usually only take my PU in for service during the winter. I looked at the grease fittings and they still had the same dirt from my hunting trip last fall! Question - How many grease fittings are on my rig? Thanks

ryanbab

http://www.gm-trucks.com/IAR_zerks.shtml

Check that out there are other truck maintenance articles there also. Should be of help

rayt2

Had same thing happen at dealers first time I let them change my oil on my 2000, 2500 2wd ext. cab. the mechanic said the book says 7 qts., I gladly pulled out my owners manual which said 6 qts. so obviously GM has a problem with manuals it is passing out to dealers.

Oh yea, I made them take the extra quart back out, he was not a happy camper but when I'm right don't tell me otherwise to justify your screw upor conflicting GM instructions!!!!

Ray T.

ryanbab

I have a set of helms manuals i got for xmas. I found a nice error. The oil filters are wrong. It is listed PF52 for the 4.8,5.3, and 6.0 engines and a PF59 for the 4.3

WTF???

Should the be other way around.

sonjaab

Guys wanna laugh?.....Took my 96 Caddy to a
dealer and a few oil change places. Told them
REMEMBER this Northstar takes almost 8 qts of
oil with filter !!! Driving around I notice
Check oil message on the DIC....Sho' nuff the
nitwits only put in 5 qts. and I was charged
for 8 on the invoice !...............geo

Now when I take my 02 Caddy in I ALWAYS check
before I pay or leave the shop....Its a PIA
but ya gotta make sure.........

mentor34

Hey guys,
     Is the 2500HD on a 3/4 ton frame or a 1 ton frame??

obyone

frame

rayt2

Doesn't surprise me. I opted not to buy a set of repair manuals on this truck since I got the ESP the dealer can worry about stuff beyond.
Besides paying over a $100 dollars for misinformation ?????? Does GM own Helms too ??

Ray T.

ryanbab

I wouldnt say the $120 was a waste. I am picky and just found a few minor errors. It does have alot of great information and plus it was my xmas gift (last minute cause they didnt like my snowmobile idea).

rayt2

would have been more fun and with all the snow this year a lot of use! Hell you could drive that sucker up a ramp right into the back of truck to haul around. I did by the manuals for my 86 & 88 Chevy trucks I once owned, the 88 just had supplements to add to 86 manual since the body style change had been introduced and first year run of extended cab.

Ray T.

ryanbab

A snowmobile wouldnt have been good but for a few days this yr. Xmas eve we got dumped on and it lasted for a wk (then warmed up). We got a little snow last wk but it was a dusting. Glad i saved my $$$. Might buy a summer toy now or possibly a home (graduation is upon us soon)

rayt2

Lots more equity in a home than a toy. Keeep the house a couple years then sell again for profit, there's money to be had in real estate.
Now as far as equity in our trucks, that's constantly dropping, no profit to be made there LOL.

Ray T.

dch0300

Get the house.....then get the snowmobile or quad or boat!!!
No sense in going thru life if you can't have a little fun while you are on this planet.
How many old people do you know that say to themselves, "I wish I had worked harder and spent less time enjoying life and having some fun."?
After all, how much of the money (profit) that you make can you take with you when you die? My guess is ZERO.

Invest some for the future, give a little to "good" charities, live within your means, but don't be so tight that your a** squeaks when you walk.

balich

I just purchased a new Silverado ('03) a couple of months ago .. I have
heard it is very important to not trailer at all
during the 1st 1000 miles .. the dealer never said
a word to me regarding this .. your thoughts ?
Unfortunately I have trailered two snowmobiles 400 miles(200 each way) starting at 550 miles ..

Also - only once the SERVICE 4WD message appeared on my info center screen.. toggled through the info. system and
message was then gone .. never saw it again .. 4wd seems to be fine .. should I be concerned ?
I am now over 1000+ miles and have not seen the message .. I saw it at 940 miles.
Could trailering have caused a problem ?

Please send a email also to pbalich@netzero.com since I do not always have access to this website.

Thanks in advance!!!

rayt2

There should be something in your owners manual on this, my 2000 Silverado w.5.3 said 500 miles break-in before towing so you should be fine.

Ray T.

gator36

I have also read that with the G80 RPO code (eaton) rear differential. You will need to have your diff serviced at 1,000 miles....

rayt2

I didn't change rear diff fluid till 30k with no ill affects, after all it's a synthetic based lube now not like the old days.
my 2 cents.....

Ray T.

cajunchevy

Took my '03 silverado in due to vibration (rumble) at 55-60, after 4 years you would think these were gone, and here's what the dealer says. "Engine resonance produced by combustion internal to engine. This is a normal characteristic of this power train." They used their EVA2 analyzer to reach this conclusion. It's a light "rumble" mostly in the floorboard that comes in at 55 mph and fades away after 60 mph. Does this make sense to anyone? Otherwise my truck is fine (1500LS ext. cab, 5.3, locking diff,tow pkg)

Thanks, cajunchevy

obyone

EVA2 much less get a reliable reading. They are just blowing smoke. My dealer found one of my Michelins to be defective so they replaced it under Michelin's warranty. Guess what? Still vibrated. The real solution was to replace the rack and pinion with an upgraded one. If you're experiencing the vibes in the seat of the pants and not the steering wheel, I'd suggest looking at the driveline first. Tell the tech to lie under the truck and see if the driveline vibrates at 55-60

dch0300

Do you actually feel the vibration thru the floorboards, or only hear it.
If you feel the vibration through the seats or vehicle floor, start back at the rear axle as the source of the problem. Have the dealer replace both rear wheels and tires with different new ones. Then "you" take it for a test drive and see if it fixes the problem. If not, then as Obyone said, have them look at the driveline next.

To see if you dealer's original conclusion is accurate, try this.
Put the truck in Drive and get it up to the speed to where it starts to vibrate (55-60 mph).
Then put it in 3rd gear and keep it up to the speed where the vibration was.
If it was "Engine resonance produced by combustion internal to engine" like the dealer said, then the vibration should be gone, since your engine RPM's will now be much higher than it was when you had it in Drive.

cajunchevy

Thanks for the replies by obyone (#523) and dch300 (#524). dch300; I tried your suggestion as noted in #524 and the rumble/vibration is still there so its not RPM related. To each of you its 80%+ in the floorboard and 20% or less in the steering wheel. Dealer says he "scoped" the drive axle and it was "right on". From ya'll are saying it looks like a tire/wheel problem. Please confirm or other suggestions.

Many Thanks, cajunchevy

fxsts

i have a wine or hum coming from my truck @ just under 2000 rpm. i thought it was the engine it happens in all gears. the dealer told my the only thing the found bad was the spring and pinion gear the transfer case. although they replaced them it still does the same thing. I first noticed it @ about 2000 mi and I now have 7000 mi on the truck. any suggestions???

hknoepfle

I am getting ready to replace the shocks on my 2000 - 2500 HD Rado. I see that Bilsteins are on sale. Are they worth the $60 - $70 apiece??

Thanks

ryanbab

$60-70 a piece WOAH!!!

Try http://www.offroadwarehouse.com

I paid $49.99 ea for my 1500 Z71. Well worth it!

mpurp

Hello, I am new to this board and to Chevys. I am thinking of buying a silverado 1500 Ext. cab and will be towing a pop-up trailor which weighs 2800 pounds fully loaded up to the mountians about 6 times a year. Does anybody know how the 4.3L V6 with an automatic trans with the 3.73 axle ratio would work out?
Thanks

sjspor

Mpurp... If you can swing the extra sheckles, go for
the 4800 to tow with. I have an 01 X-cab with the V6
and while its more the adequate for everyday use, I do
tow a Coleman Sun Valley camper, which is 2500 pounds
empty. By the time I add fire wood, my 3 kids, and at least one friend I've added at least 3500-4000 extra pounds. It will move slowly from the lights, and plan on climbing the hills around 40 on the secondary roads.

The 4.3 was fine in my 97 with a 5 speed, but with the automatic, it sucks. Plus the engine is a real rattle box with all the counter balences. I'm running a 3.42 limited slip in mine, and the mileage at best is only 18, I used to get 21 with the five speed, so all the crap about how good automatics are, and they how they don't use any more gas is all salesman talk.

Plus, in 25 years of driving I have never had a car towed, until this one, and I was pulling the camper
too. So make sure you get the tow insurance for your rig too, so your car, and camper end up at the same spot.

Your trailer weight really puts into a Pickup, I would much rather have
a Honda Pilot or Toyota Hoighlander, but they top out a with a tow limit of 3000lbs, and I would have to buy wood everywhere i went, but overall this truck has been one disappoint after another.