Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

ateixeira

I'm not a mechanic either, so I don't really know how to answer that.

How's that for honesty? ;-)

But think about this - the fuel system is pressurized and any leak even in the vapor system triggers a check-engine light. So the leak isn't there.

Down stream of the cylinder there is no gas, like you said.

So the leak could be in the cylinders themselves.

Just a thought.

-juice

lfdal

Seen it happen if you have a dead cylinder - as in no fire to the plug. Can also happen with a cracked cylinder wall, but best not to think about that. With a dead plug it should run awful. And it can make quite a knocking noise.
Another 0.02
Larry

ateixeira

If that's the case, I'd check some of the common causes - fouled plugs, or bad plug wires.

For the wires, run the enging at night in pitch darkness, and see if you see any sparks escaping from the wire insulation. If you do, change those wires ASAP.

Still, I can't help but think that no spark would trigger a check engine light. A single misfire is supposed to per OBDII.

-juice

lfdal

Well, you could disconnect a plug wire from the top of the engine before starting the engine. That would really settle whether or not the CEL light comes on from the get go. I wouldn't recommend running it very long that way however. I'll be happy to leave that test to a braver person than I. I like my engine the way it is. Working.

Real curious about the magic additive his dealer throws in there. What do you suppose it is / does?

Larry

ateixeira

Actually, these are boxers. The plugs are on the side. :-)

Unfortunately, access is difficult. Some folks remove the intake and the windshield washer reservoir just to remove the plugs. But my guess is the plug wires would be a little easier to change.

-juice

cptplt

dunno about a 01 GT but I was interested in wider tires for my 98 and I posted on nasioc asking for advice, seems there have been some problems even with 215

lfdal

Actually, I meant disconnnect it where it feeds from on the top of the engine. I agree, I'd not like to disconnect one from the side they're a pain to get on and off.
Larry

mrk610

What is the best thing to use on the suspension bushings .

thanks
mike k

lucien2

Best thing to use for what?

lucien2

3x in the last 3 weeks:

apply brakes, hear and feel in the pedal what sounds like a large amount of grit rotating around on 1 single spot on the rotor...crunch crunch. Lessens when brake is released, but still present. Muuuuuuch worse when brake applied. Goes away totally after a little while.

What say ye?

locke2c

to keep them from squeaking, I would assume.

if that's the question, the answer is white lithium grease.

-Colin

locke2c

loosh, you've probably got a peeble (or more) caught between the rotor and the dust shield. prise the shield away from the rotor and get something thin, flat and flexible to sweep in there. ...or use water.

-Colin

idahodoug

Gas gets in the oil from blowby past the rings. The piston has several rings on it - some keep scraping the oil back down into the crankcase, others hold the pressure from the cylinders. If the oil rings go bad the engine smokes. If you have a problem with blowby it could indicate a ring issue.

A cylinder pressure test would handle this, but part of this test should be a leakdown test as well. The pressure test is simple and involves merely spinning the engine to get a peak pressure. The leakdown pressure test truly tests the ring seals as it is measured after a few minutes to see if the cylinder is holding pressure. The latter is what you want to know here, so don't let them do the cheap fast one and tell you all is OK.

The other way gas gets into the oil is a sticking injector or a leaking injector. The system is pressurized when you shut off the engine. A leaking or sticking (open) injector will allow the pressure to bleed off by leaking gasoline into a cylinder. The gas seeps into the crankcase oil past the rings while the car sits. If this is the case, you might also notice the engine is down on power as the injector is not correctly metering that cylinder's fuel. With enough gas in the cylinder, you'd also note a strange rythmic discord when you start the engine as gasoline does not compress. This latter would be VERY bad for the engine - possibly leading to anything from a blown head gasket to valvetrain damage.

Pulling all four plugs would show one looking quite different if you have a leaking injector in there. That would be the suspect cylinder.

Having said all that, a car that is used for short cycles (not fully warmed up) would have a bit of gasoline smell in the oil due to normal blowby and the oil not getting hot enough to "cook" out the gas. The PCV system draws the fuel vapor out of the crankcase and through the cylinders, so it should also be checked for normal operation. Not sure the OBD would detect a dribbling or leaking injector - anyone?

IdahoDoug

fibber2

on my 2000 Windstar when it was a few weeks old and ended up needing a rotor. Must have been made of granite - dug a deep groove in the iron.

Steve

ateixeira

OK, I understand what you meant now, Larry. My mistake.

We just get a lot of folks talking about wanted a V6 or V8, and I have to roll my eyes. Boxers only on Subies, please SoA!

Yeah, what Doug said. :-)

It's easy to test a PCV valve. Just remove it and test it to make sure air flows only one way (out, that's why it's called positive crankcase ventilation).

OBDII might not catch that leaking injector if no unburned fuel makes it to the O2 sensors.

-juice

ateixeira

Mike: you can buy lithium grease in a tube (better) or a spray bottle (more convenient). Better yet, get both. I spray some on the bushings every time I rotate the tires to keep it squeek-free.

Crunch Crunch can't be good, whatever you do, do it soon.

-juice

blkmgk

I purchased an impreza which needed new airbags and front fender. I replaced the airbags and everything that was needed. Now the only thing that needs to be reset is the airbag light. Does anyone have an idea of how I can have it reset?

ateixeira

Wow, does that require a dealer tool, I wonder?

Call a body shop and ask how much they'd charge to do just that. They must have the equipment.

-juice

stevek

I purchased a two sets one for my Legacy and one for my Forester. Legacy had no problems, on the Forester they kept sliding off the plugs. Both cars have the same Phase II engine and the same Bosch plugs. I sent it back to them and they said nothing wrong with the wires, they put some more powder in the boots and send them back. This time I had a mechanic install the wires and the same thing is happening, they just keep sliding off the plugs. I called Magnacore and told them that I am sending the wires back and would like a refund. They said to send it back and they will "see what we can do". So don't buy the stuff untill I tell you if they stand behind their product.

ateixeira

How strange. Maybe it's the boxer layout? They're not dropped on top of the spark plugs like on most engines.

-juice

lfdal

Did you also replace the main computer module? When I crashed my Mercury Sable (actually I had some help), they said the airbag control computer module was a one time use item. It fired then had to be replaced. So the actual computer which was never touched, was replaced under the insurance. Honda dealer said my wife's 97 Accord was the same way - single use.
I wonder if there's some law somewhere that dictates that?
Yet another 0.02.
Larry

madturk

Well I just got back from the dealer. Of course they say it works fine and can't recreate the problem. Say they drove it a half hour. Funny I dropped it of with 964 and left with 972. 8 miles in a half hour, right.

I asked to explain why, when not using the system in auto mode, The temp set to high, it would blow hot and slowly get colder and finally the dash vents would be blowing cold and the floor still pumping out hot! All while never touching the temp or the fan. Dealer said this was a new system and they said it works identical in another 03 Forester. Well then it works wrong in two vehicles, IMO.

The 1 bright spot is they said they (the tech) would check with Subaru about this.

I have a lot of other stupid comments the service counter guy mentioned, but it just gets me more angry.

Anyone else's system have 2 different temps blowing out of different vents at the same time. I cannot believe this is how it is supposed to work.

Thanks

Jeff

jfl

Steve, does the wire snap onto a plug out of the engine? Once they catch, they are very secure. It sounds like the clip is not grabbing on to the top of the plug.

Jim

stevek

That is what I thought but I do hear/feel click and the manufacturer said the wires are ok. If this was my only set of wires from them I would say I screwed up the installation, remember I also had a mechanis put it on for me and they still came off. The only conclusion I have is that the wires are deffective. Their hesitation to send me another set and/or refund my money does not sit well, since I am a repeat customer.
I am no mechanic but FYI: able to keep my 1977 Firebird in showroom condition doing most of the work myself, there fore I do have some degree of mechanical inclanation.

nippononly

most common cause of gas in the oil is real short use cycles, never allowing the engine to warm up properly...the oil can actually become quite diluted this way if this occurs over many use cycles (turn on, shut down), which is bad!

This is also bad for another reason, which is that there is usually condensation in the exhaust system which is not burned out of there if the engine is driven short and shut down cold...this leads to rust in there...

hammersley

Had a pebble in the brakes on wife's car a long time ago - not knowing what it was & it made such a racket the first time, I had the thing towed! Next time, I knew better... live & learn.

Cheers!
Paul

mrk610

yea that was my question . Every once in a while I get a noise going over large bumbs and dips in the road. You just spray the grease on the bushings right?

subearu

Finally got around to changing the 'dino' oils out of both our Outback and MPV. Fresh Mobil-1 for each.

Bought some Rhino ramps, which made crawling underneath each a breeze. Sliding away that plastic access panel on the Outback sure makes getting in there much easier. Used aluminum foil to cover the areas I suspected would get oil on 'em, but didn't need it on the Outback (the MPV was another story).

However, I can't comment on the 'cold-weather' chatter noise on the Outback though. It's about 65 degrees here today :-)

-Brian

lvtogolf

Any thoughts on how to free a jammed cd from an indash cd changer in an Outback?

jfl

Steve, I understand your concern about the Magnacor wires. They are EXPENSIVE and I would expect them to work properly.

Here's another thought...although I'm not sure I would try this if I were in your shoes...do the one or two defective wires work on your first car?

Second thought - did you send back the set or just the bad wires? From their warranty, it seemed to be implied that they would replace individual wires.

I'm using their wires now and am happy with them. Based on your experience, I'm not sure I'd use them next time around.

Jim

nygreg

to wash the cars today instead of changing the oil. Just received the Toyota filters so I'll get to it this week.

Greg

nygreg

OK, it has been 3 months since they replaced my left head gasket. I have not lost a drop of antifreeze
(checked today). Prior to the new gasket I had a continual drop in the level. I have now come to the conclusion that the original gasket was leaking from the get go. Makes me more confident that it was a bad part or incorrect installation and not a design flaw.

Greg

nygreg

In old radial aircraft engines they use to add fuel to the oil just prior to shutdown to dilute the oil for easier start next time. -Another piece of useless information.

Greg

ateixeira

Greg: cool. Pardon the pun!

Mike: yes, spray the bushings where they meet up with the metal sway bar.

-juice

ateixeira

No idea about that CD, sorry. One guy's stereo went nuts and he ended up losing the CDs while trying. :-(

-juice

mrk610

climbon

Our 1999 Forester L has 92,000 miles on it now. We bought it about 9 months used with 11,000 on it. We absolutely loved it at first. Have had regular maintenance, and the warranty has just ran out. However, we've had 2 gasket blowouts now. This most recent one is a double head gasket? We experienced hot and cold air blowing intermittently and then the temp gauge was bouncing around. Took it in and they say the coolant leaked into the cylinders, because the gasket was bad. I'm having a hard time swallowing this since less than a year ago we decided to have the timing belt changed when the first gasket problem came up, since they had the engine apart anyway we saved money on the labor. Anyone else having gasket problems in their Foresters?

nippononly

it would seem a good idea to do both if one goes...how far behind can the other one be?

It is a shame this engine is having these problems with these head gaskets...didn't someone say there is some kind of Subaru acknowledgement on this problem or something?

lucien2

at my local shop to just have a look-see at the brakes. I have zero time to mess with it on my own this week, so there it is. I'll let you all know what answer comes back.

03xngreen

Juice, did you ever hear back from the rep regarding gaskets, or did I miss a post?

ateixeira

Patti is back but only part-time. She promised to look into it but is still investigating.

We've seen about 10-12 gasket failures reported here on Edmunds, enough to form a pattern but not so much that everyone should be concerned.

One thing that Subaru mechanic said during our maintenance chat was to NOT switch to synthetic on an older engine, because the oil is thinner and can strip the protective layers on the seals, causing leaks.

Out of curiosity, Annette, are you using dino or synthetic oil? What viscosity?

-juice

climbon

Juice -
We have never used synthetic, and it's always been 10-40. Thanks for all the replies here, I appreciate it! We're looking at a $1700 bill here, and they're supposed to have it finished today. Ugh! Let me know what you find out, and I'll post what the outcome is of today's service visit.
Annette

nippononly

subaru's recommended oil for these engines is 5/30 weight, which is pretty thin, isn't it?

whiteoutback

Hello All: This is my first post. Haven't contacted the dealer yet because, well, it's a long story, but the dealer I bought the car from sold out to a multi-brand dealer and the 30,000 mile service I got from the new folks was less than perfect.

Anyway, my 2000 Outback Limited has those "gold" aluminum wheels, which, I was warned, I should keep meticulously clean--which I have done!

Yesterday while washing the car, I noticed that every wheel has corrosive bumps all around the hub cover on the wheel and on the edges of the cover itself. What's up? I put some LPS 3 on the bumps, but not under the hubcaps (the manual says not to do that).

Have not seen any technical bulletins or recalls about this problem. Can it be only MY car? I live in MD and this has been a pretty grim winter, but still! Have washed faithfully.

Would appreciate feedback.

Thanks, Molly

sensei1

Question to the Subaru pros....the manual shows 7.5k maint. cycles while the website shows 5k cycles, what's what here?

Being this is my 1st Subaru, all my others I generally went with 5k maint. intervals.

Thanks in advance,
Fredy

philwang66

I believe the maintenance interval is every 7.5k miles for "normal duty" and 3.75k for "severe duty". I see the same interval in the manual as well as on my.subaru.com.

ateixeira

Yes, nippononly, that is relatively thin. A synthetic flows even more so 5w20 synthetic would be most likely to leak (in any vehicle).

Molly: I'm in MD too, in fact my dad's Outback Limited has the same wheels you have. They look good despite neglect (he washes it, well, never).

Clean them up and even wax them, since the wheels are painted, to keep them in their best shape. But I think you have a legitimate complaint and should indeed bring it up to your dealer.

-juice

ateixeira

I think 5k is pretty safe, as long as you're not city driving, towing, or off road. With any of those I'd follow the severe duty schedule.

It's funny because I started with the normal duty but switched to severe duty.

-juice

kens

Hey gang, I need some advice. The rubber gasket on my driver's side window (that triangular piece that the side mirror is connected to) has a cut right where the window comes up. The cut was put there by the window tinter (despite my asking him not to -- grrrr) when I had UV-reducing film applied to the front side windows. The cut has gradually opened up to about 3/4" in length.

The only drawback of the cut is that I get wind noise from that area and it doesn't look very good. I've been using black electricial tape to patch it but it doesn't take long before the tape peels off.

Any ideas on how I could better patch that area? I was thinking of some epoxy and a strip of rubber tubing.

Ken

ateixeira

I used a silicon caulk on the vinyl top of my Miata. It's held up well, even in snow and rain, and in very cold weather. No leaks at all.

Use it sparingly, applying more later is easy. The stuff I had went on white, but dried clear. So it would probably work well in the area you describe.

The only caveat? In the rain, it sorts of looks more white, maybe because the water makes the vinyl look darker.

-juice