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Comments
Bone-stock it's OK, but modify the intake on a '99 Impreza or Forester and you'll get check-engine lights left and right. An Apexi S-AFC would actually blow up the MAF to the tune of $400 in repairs.
-juice
________________________________
Dear Customer,
Here is a quick fit that should solve the problem. The computer is designed to search for the optimal air/fuel ratio and timing curve for both power and emissions. It does this automatically. Now the computer was okay with the flow from the paper element, but when the K&N went in it didn't understand the increased air flow and compensated for the additional air flow by throwing more gas at it. I want you to go ahead and disconnect the negative cable for an hour. By disconnecting the negative cable for 60 minutes the computer will recalibrate to the optimal air-fuel ratio. Increasing air flow makes it deliver more fuel which results in increased power. If you have more power and do not use it to driver harder, fuel savings will be realized as well.
________________________
I'm considering trying this and reinstalling the K&N. Maybe I didn't wait long enough for the computer to recalibrate itself the first time.
However, withold judgement on performance until you've driven a few thousand miles. An ECU reset will cause your OB to revert to a baseline program that causes the engine to run rich. You'll be feeling increased power and decreased gas milage until the ECU has enough data points to optimize the air-fuel mixture.
I think a lot of folks who install K&N and Amsoil filters reset their ECU and assume the change in performance is a direct result of the filter swap.
Ken
-juice
Hey, that's interesting to know. What's it doing, exhausting an engine computer's CPU capacitor via the "brakes are on" sensor or similar? Clever - I'd like to know more if you have any further info.
Regarding K&N filters, I do a bit of offroading with my LandCruiser and several times the K&N filters come up. Several on the club list a couple years ago decided to do an informal test which several around the globe participated in. They put K&N filters on, then put a smear of Vaseline in the intake downstream of the filter to see what's getting by. They then switched to stock filters and checked again. Some attempt was made by all to have a fair test, such as alternating the filters back and forth during a multi day trip so each filter got the "same dust".
The findings indicated significantly more "stuff" got by the K&N filters than the stock Toyota filters. Nothing high tech - just visual observation of the dust. Bear in mind that the model Cruisers we all owned have a "desert duty" filtration system that uses centrifugal force to spin out large particles into a dust cup. So, a street filtration system may fare even worse.
K&N has been around a long time, but I offer this as food for thought. Personally, I would trade off a few hp in order to have the best engine longevity and filtration even on my street machine.
Also, when I got my Sube, I was warned not to use anything besides a Sube filter as it has a steel frame and the clamping force in the air cleaner can distort the plastic ones. Sure enough, when I checked I had an aftermarket one in their from the previous owner and it was indeed distorted and showing one area with a trail of dust going right past the sealing surface.
IdahoDoug
Now that I think about it, it might send signals electrically from the ECU. I'm not sure.
-juice
I begin by saying that this forum has been a tremendous source of knowledge. To the many members who provide insight and guidance many thanks for their dedication.
We bought a Subaru Forester 2001, S model with Auto Transmission in Dec 2000 from a dealer in Central New Jersey. It has so far clocked about 40,000 miles. We bought this car for our office use and so far our overall our experience has been reasonably satisfactory except following malfunctions:
1) At times, after starting the engine in PARK, the release button can’t be pressed and consequently the gearshift lever can’t be shifted to any position (neither forward nor reverse) for some time. The length of time can be 10 second or as long as 45 minutes. Our observation indicates that this malfunction generally occur once ambient temperature drops closer to freezing. After starting the engine the length of time it takes for the release button to move and let the shift lever move tends to be longer as outside air temperature drops. Yesterday evening, with the car sitting at an open parking lot all day in New Jersey, it took almost 40 minutes for the engine to warm up before the release button could be pressed and shift lever could be moved for the car to start moving.
2) With the gas tank gauge indicating that the tank is completely empty, we can only pump about 8-9 gallons of gas for the tank to completely fill up and the tank gauge indicate tank full. In other words even though the tank is about half full the gauge shows that it is empty. This continues to be a persistent problem since we purchased this vehicle.
During most recent routine maintenance of the car, the service department of the Subaru dealer (from whom the car was purchased) advised that they had “checked out” the system and the gauge should read correctly. Unfortunately the gauge malfunction and the problem with the release button and shift lever continue.
3) At highway speeds the closed moon roof creates a low but steady high pitched whining noise. This continues to be a persistent problem since we purchased this vehicle.
One other problem that has been corrected is following:
4) In July 2002 a small crack appeared on the windshield glass while the car was parked under the sun in the office parking lot on an especially hot summer day. It started at the top where the glass is held by the rubber seal. After discussions with the dealer’s service department and inspection by Subaru inspectors we were advised that the crack was caused by physical impact by an object. The Subaru team noted that a very tiny impact mark on the glass was the cause of the crack. Therefore, the cost of replacing the glass would not be covered by Subaru. Subsequently we had the windshield replaced at our cost (covered under insurance policy).
Any comment on how to correct the malfunctions noted in 1), 2) and 3) will be appreciated.
Tallgrass1776
1) Ice buildup prevents the mechanism from working properly? I tried a search and didn't find anything on this, but I swear I remember reading about a similar problem several months ago. Anyone else?
2) My fuel gauge is very conservative also, and will indicate E when there is plenty of fuel. I go by the trip odometer, since a fuel gauge isn't always terribly accurate. Not sure it can be easily fixed. Better this than running out of gas.
3) Does your car have roof rails or a rack? These tend to make a bit of noise at high speed.
utahsteve
2) Could the gauge be correct and for some reason the gas pump clicks off early?
3) It doesn't take much of a hit in the right spot to crack a windshield. It's rare that a windshield cracks due to installation.
Sorry, not much help. Just some thoughts.
Greg
I stuck my head in the engine compartment when my wife turned the steering wheel and it appears to be coming from the (gear?)box connected to the end of the steering column. Sounds kind of like a becalmed wooden ship creaking in an old movie and seems to be getting more pronounced.
We're going to make an appointment to take it in next week, just wondered if anyone has had the pleasure.
Make sure you step on the brakes before shifting out of park. There is a brake/park interlock.
Finally, yes, someone here has some ice buildup on the tranny mechanism, perhaps they drove over a pile of snow?. But then the problem should disappear when the snow/ice melts.
The fuel guages tend to be conservative, but you can rely on the low fuel warning light. That goes on when there are 2.3 gallons left, i.e. you've used 13.6 gallons.
Another suggestion? Use one of the trip odometers for the distance since the last fill up. You have a 2nd for trip distances. You should easily go 300 miles between fill ups.
#3 is buffeting that is probably worse than average due to the immense size of the moonroof. I don't think any deflector would be big enough, so try cracking open both rear windows a couple of inches. You need to create turbulence to stop that buffeting.
FWIW, I have a 15"x30" aftermarket pop-up roof, and when I remove it I also get the buffeting. Opening the rear windows works like a charm.
And yes, check the roof rack cross bars. Like the wings on an air plane, the round edges should face forward, and the sharp edges back.
Steering creak. Hmm. Tough one. Since you can trace the sound, let the dealer have a look-see. For whatever reason CV joints come to mind.
Good luck.
-juice
laker64 "Subaru Legacy/Outback (Wagons & SUVs Boards)" Dec 15, 2002 10:52pm
utahsteve
-juice
Do you think removing the plastic cover (that surrounds the AT shift lever) and spraying a moisture repellant/lubricant (something like WD-40)may expel any moisture and prevent sticking?
Ateixeira,you correctly noted about brake/park interlock. Unfortunately pressing the brake doesn't ease the situation. Also, could you think of any source through which I can try to find further info on the recall for the auto tranny problem with a retaining pin? That way I could draw the attention of the service people at the dealership.
I plan to take the car to the dealer again on a cold day, leave it overnight and let them get a better understanding of the problem.
tallgrass1776
What signs do I look for on the left/driver? side?
-Brian
Other signs include (but are not limited to):
-While engine is running, water level in overflow pulses up and down.
-Erratic temp gauge operation.
-White exhaust smoke after engine is warm.
-Pull spark plugs and affected cylinder will have extremely clean plug.
-Aforementioned smell.
Good luck with it.
IdahoDoug
Cheers Pat.
Photos of my quick investigation are here: http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4290558269
I can smell the coolant on the plastic shield under the engine. No puddles of coolant or obvious drippings. This was a cold engine - I've got to run some errands this afternoon, so I'll take another peek with it warm.
Coolant level is not low, according to the overflow bottle. I didn't smell it every time I exited the vehicle yesterday.
-Brian
I'd have the cooling system pressurized if you continue to smell it. It's an easy test and if there are small leaks you'll see them weeping.
-Colin
Brian in the picture on the lower rad hose you look to have a stain around the wire hose clamp, the clamp also looks pretty rusty, and if I were you I would ditch the wire clamps as a matter of course those things tend to leak under pressure over time.
I intend flushing my antifreeze this year and I will dump all the wire hose clamps at that time.
Cheers Pat.
I feel your pain. My '99 Contour had the same problem last winter. After taking it to two independent shops and having diagnostics run at both, and getting the same diagnosis, it cost me $350 to get it fixed.
It was not the sensor itself, but the speedometer, so they had to take the dash apart, which is where I guess most of the cost went to - Labor.
You're still getting RPM readings? You can guesstimate speed from that?
Mine was a bit flaky, but I decided to get it fixed when on a trip to Pine Bush, NY, I passed by an area known by locals for UFO activity and that damned speedometer was all over the place.
I thought I was soon to meet Kronos and Kang, and decided I wasn't going to get a sunroof big enough so they could beam me up.
- Lou
Craig
I had a Supra with auto climate that works way better than this, as does my dad's Acura TL-S.
Any suggestions?
I'll be looking at that lower radiator hose this morning. It's a nice 8°F, so hopefully I'll be able to spot it quickly.
FWIW, it's running normally, no stumbling, etc. Last city tank was 20 MPG, and it's been below normal temps here in SE Wisconsin. I've tried observing the tailpipe for abnormal white exhaust, but with it being below freezing here, it's difficult to tell the difference.
-Brian
It looks like it's the top hose that is the culprit. There is seepage along the top of the radiator, a small drip puddle on the fan shroud, and drippage down the shroud to the lower portion of the radiator.
-Brian
Madturk, I haven't used the "auto" mode yet. In the "manual" mode, I don't think that the temperature setting applies for the heater. Between "65" and "75" on the dial I believe I have felt temps from 45 degrees to 100 degrees coming out the vents. Perhaps the manual control just operates a door position on the heater and doesn't take into account ambient air temp coming in. I am waiting until I get serious with a need for the AC unit before I pass judgement on the system. My guess is that cabin air temp is much more closely aligned with the dial and it is the AC unit that regulates it, as it is easier to cycle an AC compressor on and off than it is to modulate the heater core temp or door position (it takes more time for these to react). Someone with the inside scoop please jump in here.
John
BTW you can replace the clamps without draining the system get regular hose clamps open them up and fit them on the hose. Then loosen the wire clamps and just snip through them with sidecutters then slide the new clamp into place and tighten.
Do this when the system is cold to avoid burns also there will be no pressure so you should just get a little seepage when you cut the old clamp off.
Cheers Pat.
Nowadays I only have the dealership touch my new car, and they seem to be a lot more careful, but we will see. They sell tires too, so if a few tire rotations by them do not produce rim-marring, I may just pay the premium to have them replace the tires as well.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
I've found the best way to use the "Auto" feature so far has been to set it for the cool side and then let it warm up - because it does overshoot the mark considerably. Then let it cycle itself back down to cool. If you try to do this manually, you'll be forever playing catch-up, just as you described. After a while it does seem to even out, although you might not notice it on a short trip. I prefer to have the vents blowing in my face - or at least I used to. Now its either like getting hit with a freeze gun or a blowtorch. So far this has been the option I could have most done without. The heated seats are another matter. I love those.
Does anyone have any idea how to make these scratches disappear? Is there some sort of buffing compound that I can use or something else?
Thanks.
If I do nothing to repair the damage, the rust will worsen.
I went to a well-known and well-respected shop to have the tires rotated. Now I wish I'd driven the tires into the ground! I'll likely lodge a complaint with the BBB.
Mike k
I haven't owned SP 9000s but have driven them on others' cars. I am not impressed. They do not compare favorably in handling or grip to other pricey summer tires.
I see they are on special at the tirerack, but I'd still advise something different. Two years ago I drove a set of them back-to-back against Bridgestone Potenza S-02s, and the Bridgestones completely destroyed the Dunlops in all respects. Of course, they got rid of that tire and no one seems to like the S-03 quite as much. :-(
-Colin
Oh, just read your 2nd post, you already caught that.
-juice
It's funny, I read an article about speed records at Bonneville and they do use WD40 on the sides of the cars to keep ice from forming. Pretty wild.
For more info about the recall, and to see if your vehicle is affected, try:
http://www.nhtsa.gov/
masan: yes, that could happen when the tires were rotated. The rims are painted I believe, so you could touch them up or re-paint them. I wax mine to keep them clean and prevent those types of problems by doing the rotations myself.
You could get alloys, but keep in mind they are even softer and will suffer damage too.
I'd powder coat them a nice anthracite color.
-juice
George
list of one
OK, what other 215/45-17 tires out there that would be good?
-Dave
-Brian
Is there anyone that can give me a reasonable explanation as to why a mileage problem that has existed since November 2001 has not been addressed by Subaru despite visiting the dealership at least once a month for 5 months?
I'm doing this a little backwards, I'm presenting Subaru's solutions first then a description of my problems.
Subaru has proposed several causes.
1) Not letting the vehicle warm up enough
It was recommended to me to allow 5-6 min warm up.
2) Letting the vehicle warm up too much
I was told 5-6 min was too long and to warm up the vehicle for a max of 3-4 min.
3) Switch from premium fuel to 87 octane, although premium was all I have ever used.
4) Not driving it at freeway speeds frequently enough. I make a 600 mile round trip every other month or so but most of my driving is city.
My problems:
1) My avg mpg (city) for the last 5 months is 11.4 mpg +/- 2 mpg this is a 50% reduction over the mpg I was getting for the first 11 months of ownership. If you include the break in period I only achieved that mileage for about 4 months.
2)In addition to poor gas mileage the vehicle has achieved an essentially random high rev low rev phenomenon that leads to a stall.
3) Perhaps related to 2. The vehicle begins to stall more frequently when fuel gauge reaches 1/4 tank. This one has happened several times as I pulled into traffic.
4) For the sake of my sanity please help.
Good luck.
-juice
Greg
-Brian