Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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  • leobella1leobella1 Member Posts: 2
    Can anyone help me on this? My rear back up lights (white lights) do not turn on when I shift into reverse. I checked the fuse which was okay and it seems as though power is going through the light socket.

    Let me know.

    Regards.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    Our Saturn had this happen - the lights worked fine and then poof, both didn't work at all. I tried new bulbs, but still no show.

    Turned out to be the 'switch' in the transmission that powers the backup lights was shot. I'm not familiar with the Subaru MT, but would wager that this could be the culprit.

    -Brian
  • stevekstevek Member Posts: 362
    How did you determine that the backup light socket(s) gets juice? did you put it in reverse (with the breaks on I hope) and then probed it?
    If electricity flows thru the fuse that does not mean it got to the sockets.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    dog: if you feel a pusling in the brake pedal, that's the ABS feedback, and it's normal.

    Dave: if you haven't already, call 800-SUBARU3 and ask them to open a case for you. Ask them to note the vehicle's repair history, see if they can help out in some way.

    With the 2' plus of snow we got here, you'd be better off staying home and letting the plows do their work.

    Adeel: the window angle can be adjusted to fix that problem. In fact, one handy owner managed to do it himself. Ask your dealer to adjust that.

    Heidi: don't worry at all about that recall, they re-program the ECU to be less sensitive to triggering check-engine light. It's actually a good thing.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Some fuses also get hairline cracks that are hard to see, so try changing it even if it looks good.

    -juice
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    OK folks, what are your opinions on Mobil 1 or synthetics in general? I have pretty much decided to change the WRX over to synthetic at the next opportune moment, which could be as early as the 3K oil change. Anybody have an opinion on "when" the best time to switchover is?

    Craig
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    I'd do it at the next oil change, don't wait too long or the synthetic can strip the seals left by dino oils.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Synthetic is probably a good idea for engines like those used in the WRX. It was recommended by a Subaru maintenance rep that once you switch, not to go back to dino.

    Ken
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Pebbles is due for her first oil change next month, and I have Mobil 1 waiting in the side lines for that day.
    Come warmer weather, I'm going to switch whatever could be switched to synthetic.

    -Dave
  • mike1962mike1962 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 Outback and I am wondering if anyone else has experienced the following problems.

    The front wipers stopped working. The motor is working. If I manually place the wipers on the windshield and start them, they will retract, but they just twitch instead of going out again. I can't find an obstruction either.

    When I make slow sharp turns it makes a honking sound. I demonstrated it to a Subaru technician and he thought it sounded like the steering column. They worked on it but it's still making the sound.

    BTW, I've also had it in the shop for the parking brake recall and an O2 sensor failure. Needless to say, I'm starting to wonder why I bought a Subaru.

    Any insights would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Most Subies are reliable, but each individual car can vary. You just weren't lucky, so far.

    Call 800-SUBARU3 and ask them to open a case number and escalate that steering issue. They'll get help from the regional techs.

    The wiper motor should be an easy fix for them. Was it run while there was ice on the windshield?

    -juice
  • mike1962mike1962 Member Posts: 2
    The wiper problem started right after a snow storm. I cleaned the windshield and wipers. When I start the wipers they twitch like they're trying to move. I looked for an obstruction but I just don't see anything that could be causing it. Since they try to move I figure the motor is fine. It goes into the shop Friday. Thanks for the advice on the steering.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Is your 2002 Outback still under warranty? If so, then the wiper fix should be easy as juice pointed out.

    I'd also push for further escalation of the steering column noise. That shouldn't be there and Subaru should look at it. Give customer service a chance to work with the dealer.

    Ken
  • dpwdswdpwdsw Member Posts: 3
    Mike1962,

    I had the same problem on the 97 Outback during a very heavy snow storm. I cleared the snow/ice and there was no obstruction but the wipers would just twitch. After an hour or so, the wipers started to work again. This is the only time this ever happened. When we took it to the dealer, we were told "if it happens again, bring it in."

    Let us know what your dealer says - I'd be interested in hearing what the problem was.
  • lfdallfdal Member Posts: 679
    Something I've seen happen over the years - once to me once to someone else - after a snow storm I didn't unstick the wipers from the glass and actually stripped the posts the wipers attach to. So the posts moved fine, but the wipers just twitched. That was painful to fix. Not to mention embarrassing - I fixed it myself, couldn't stand the thought of having the shop do it.
    The other thing is that a lot of the wiper motors are protected against being overloaded by a clutch of sorts - not sure exactly how it works but its designed to slip without burning out the motor when its overloaded.
    Just a couple of ideas.
    Larry
  • georgeinmdgeorgeinmd Member Posts: 27
    Howdy,

    My first posting to what seems an unusually thoughtful and informative forum. I have a '99 Forester, 5 speed, 85K miles, much at 75+ mph on the notorious Washington Beltway. No problems at all (outside of a few curious design "features"), until recently - the check engine light comes on intermittantly and while the light remains on, the engine intermittantly loses power - feels just like the timing is not advancing. Any experience with this? Related to the recall referenced in the title? Does it apply to '99? Can I expect to hear from Subaru? Thanx!

    George
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    You can check at the NHTSA web site, but I don't think yours is affected.

    I would simply reset the ECU. Disconnect the negative battery terminal, wait 30 minutes, then reconnect. Start her up and let her idle 'til warm.

    That usually does it. If you're close to a dealer they can read the code, but often it's a loose gas cap or a single engine misfire, i.e. harmless. If it were something really bad the light would blink.

    -juice
  • dauerbachdauerbach Member Posts: 4
  • dauerbachdauerbach Member Posts: 4
    2000 Subaru Outback. 96K. At 84K new timing belt. At 86K new engine. At 96K (now) the timing belt broke. Towed to the garage that did the original work. They replace the timing belt and now say that the valves are bent, the head gasket is leaking and the radiator is leaking. The car never overheated or even ran warm. There is no fluid of any kind on the garage floor and when the timing belt failed the car had been driven about 1/2 mile after a cold start. I think they are going to claim a coolant leak caused the engine to seize, then break the timing belt. The engine is still under warrenty and I think they are trying to shaft me. What kind of failure can cause all of the problems described above? What most likely happened to my engine?
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Just took the Forester in for an alignment check and everything turned out good. Everything was in spec after 45K miles! The mechanic was impressed at how all the suspension bits were still "tight" after 81K miles on the odo. I went to Custom Alignment in Mountain View (for those in the Bay Area). These guys are alignment specialists and really know their stuff.

    One interesting thing I did learn about was that there seems to be an design issue with Subaru steering bushings. The steering rack is held in place by two bushings but only the driver's side bushing is "fenced" whereas the other one has little lateral support. The result of this set up is that after taking a very hard turn (ie. U-turn), the entire steering column shifts to one side and the steering wheel goes slightly out of center even though the car is driving straight. After a few turns in both directions, the rack straightens out and the steering wheel is centered (when going straight).

    The mechanic has looked at lots of WRXs and other Subarus and noted that this seems to be a common occurance. Also, the wider the tire the car is using, the more pronounced this problem becomes. He put my Forester up on a lift and had his partner turn the steering wheel to show me the shift in the steering column. Lo and behold, I saw how the steering rack shifts by a tiny amount at full lock.

    To his knowledge, there doesn't seem to be a good fix. He's replaced several bushings for some WRX owners, but the problem resurfaces. He's doubtful that harder bushings would work since the steering rack itself is sliding between the bushings. The problem seems to be, again, that only the driver's side bushing has braces from the steering rack bracing it from lateral movement.

    Anyone else ever notice that their steering wheel becomes slightly off-center after a sharp turn?

    Ken
  • hypovhypov Member Posts: 3,068
    Nope, at least not yet on the WRX.
    But will keep an eye for it.

    -Dave
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Thanks! Wish I had read this before the chat. So the rack is actually moving along the firewall. How strange! Is this a Legacy/OB problem also, or just Impreza/Forester?

    Steve
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    ken--

    interesting! I aligned my impreza about twice a year while autocrossing and never really thought about why the wheel kept moving.

    I thought my camber bolts were shifting.

    -Colin
  • p0926p0926 Member Posts: 4,423
    If you turned on the wipers when the blades were frozen to the windshield, then that could explain why they don't work (see Larry's post).

    -Frank P.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Steve -- the mechanic told me that he's seen the problem with all Subarus although he had seen it mostly in the WRX and Impreza RS. However, that's simply due to the fact that a higher number of these owners seek out custom alignment jobs.

    Below is a link that shows exactly the area that is affected:

    http://www.ravensblade-impreza.com/modifications/drivetrain/steer- ing/steering.html

    The driver's side bushing (last photo at bottom of page) is braced from both sides. The passenger side bushing (top photos) is not. Apparently, the driver's side bracing alone is not enough to keep the rack from sliding when the wheel is turned close to full lock.

    When the mechanic locked my steering wheel, I could see a "polished" section of the steering rack appear by the passenger side bushing. The polishing is a result of the rack shifting against the bushing. The total shift was about 1/4"-1/2" -- enough to make the steering wheel be off center by about 20-30 degrees. The rack re-centers itself after a few turns of the wheel.

    Ken
  • paisanpaisan Member Posts: 21,181
    Now I know why with my 245s it's even more pronounced! :)

    -mike
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That gasket and radiator are your responsibility, but the timing belt and valves should be theirs.

    I hope it's a trustworthy shop. Ask to talk to the owner or at least a manager.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That's interesting, Ken. I have not noticed that but I'll pay special attention after my next set of U-turns.

    Some how I picture the entire Crew will be doing extra U-turns tonight, driving their spouses crazy!

    I have wider-than-stock tires, too, 225mm is as wide as any current Soob. So I'll check it out.

    -juice
  • patrickm2patrickm2 Member Posts: 2
    I have a 2000 Forester, 5 speed, with 57K miles. No problems until recently, when my check engine light came on. Light began blinking while driving under really damp conditions. Light eventually stopped blinking, but remained on. Checked under the hood recently and saw that spark plug wires were arcing, slightly, while the engine was warm. This week, I had the car tuned up (replaced plugs, plug wires, air and gas filters, etc.) Car is running fine now, but check engine light came back on -- not blinking, but on. Must have something to do with catalytic converter? Any experience with this?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Blinking is bad. It's actually a signal to park it and call a tow truck. But that was resolved anyway.

    A solid light is just a warning, so you could wait until, say, your next oil change to visit the dealer.

    Could be a LOT of things, but the most common is a loose or defective gas cap. Any leak in the vacuum system, even a loose or cut hose, will trigger the light. Or condensation in the gas lines. A single engine misfire, so it could be nothing.

    I doubt it's the cat. If that clogs up you start to lose power and it sort of chokes the engine.

    -juice
  • celica115celica115 Member Posts: 169
    Can anyone tell me how to check the gearbox oil? Someone told me that the oil looks yellow. What will happen if you are running out of gear oil? Dose it need to change at 30K tune up? Thank You!

    Luk
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Let me know how it goes. It's more an annoyance than a big safety concern, IMO. Basically, your steering wheel will be off center until you complete a few side-to-side turns that straighten things out. It would be nice if there was some kind of fix. The Whiteline bushings get mixed results.

    Ken
  • erics6erics6 Member Posts: 684
    Called the dealer yesterday to check on their price for the 60k service. Quote was $725 including changing the timing belt. I started laughing. Think I'll try an independent service place recommended in NASIOC.
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    Thanks for posting the link to Ravensblade. That guy did a great job of documenting the issue. I am constantly blown away by the incredible amount of info available today on the web. Maybe some day I can pay back the favor!

    I have been pasting some of these types of reports into Powerpoint for safe keeping. Someday we need to put out our own compendium/proceedings as it does not look like an affordable shop manual is ever going to be available. Wouldn't it be great to have an on-line library somewhere with all of this stuff in one place?

    Steve
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Gear oil is nice and stinky, plus it's much thicker than motor oil (75w90 vs. 10w30). Autos use ATF, of course.

    I'm not sure where the dipstick is, or even if there is one. I do know there is a drain plug and a fill plug, and usually you just fill it up until it spills out of the fill plug.

    And yes, I would have it changed every 30k, 60k tops.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    $725 is stiff, though prices in DC are high too, usually $600 or so. Shop around.

    Steve: great idea, but it's almost impossible to keep track of all that stuff, and if you did you'd end up with bad links unless you made a copy of everything and hosted it yourself.

    -juice
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    celica 15, not sure what car you have, but let me brag on my new '03 Forester 5 speed, the darn thing has a dip stick which serves both the manual tranny and the front diff. cool, eh?

    John
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    That's because they actually share the same fluid.

    The rear diff is seperate, though, and yeah, I'd change that at 30k miles as well.

    -juice
  • celica115celica115 Member Posts: 169
    Do you mean that changing the manual tranny oil will also change the gear oil too? John, I have a 02 WRX.

    Luk
  • celica115celica115 Member Posts: 169
    I read the manuals just now. It only shows you how to check the tranny oil but nothing about the gear oil.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    They are the same. So yes, draining and refilling the tranny oil means the front differential has fresh oil too.

    -juice
  • ducktapeguyducktapeguy Member Posts: 115
    Kens,
    You say the drivers side mount is braced from both sides? If it is, then how is the passenger side shifting? I'm assuming if one end is fixed laterally (might be a wrong assumption) then the other one shouldn't move either. And does the shift happen when turning in both directions? From what I can see in the pictuers, is seems like the driver's side bushing surrounds the clamp, and acts as a cushion from the stops. If so, then a harder bushing might help with the slop, just because it won't compress as much. If you install the new bushings, check how much play there is between the stops and the bushing. It seems like it should be a really tight fit, if not, then there's going to be slop in the steering no matter what. Maybe you can insert shims or something

    I don't think it's an oversight or mistake by subaru that both sides aren't fixed though. Usually, when mounting something like this, you do not want to fix both end to hard stops. If both ends were fixed, there'd always be a compression or tension on the steering rack because there's always tolerances in the manufacturing of the rack and mounting points. You need one end to have some play in it to allow for adjustment. But maybe subaru just didn't give enough support to the drivers side bushing.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    ducktapeguy:

    Yes, only the driver's side bushing is braced, but for some reason the rack shifts. It may be that the bushings flex too much, but I'm not sure. You're probably right that the part bracing was intentional, but as we've seen, it has the unfortunate effect of sliding the rack.

    I'll see how much the installation of the bushings are and decide if I want to try them.

    Ken
  • vin_amsvin_ams Member Posts: 26
    Most synthetic oil companies will say that you can change over right away in a gasoline engine. They probably are correct since many vehicles come with synthetic from the factory. If I were to make a more conservative reccommendation to someone, I check the exact leval on the dipstick, wait about 1k miles, recheck the leval. If there is no oil consumption you are fine to change. If you need top off oil, wait another 500 miles or until the engine oil consumption is normal before changing. Waiting for consumption to stabilize is the approach generally used with diesel engines. I personally change the vehicles to synthetic after the first long drive, as little as 20 miles, or as long as a few 100 miles.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    actually, very few vehicles come with synthetic from the factory.

    the reason why they say it's OK to use it right away is because almost all engines have some running-in time on the line. this allows wear patterns to form on the cam(s) and other valvetrain components, and for the rings to bed properly.

    after those things happen, synthetic has no risk and significant advantages.

    -Colin
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    thanks!
  • vin_amsvin_ams Member Posts: 26
    I think that the Subie rep.advised you incorrectly. There are many missconceptions regarding synthetic oil. One is that once you change you can never go back. When you change back you mearly lose the advantages of the syn. oil. Syn. oil, and petro. are compatable.
  • vin_amsvin_ams Member Posts: 26
    Actually there may be more engines than you think that are factory filled with syn. oil from the getgo. You are right about the running time prior to delivery, thats a help. But the biggest factor in being able to change over right away, is that some years ago, most manufactures started to provide a much improved crosshatch on the cylinder walls which gave easy ring seating with any type of oil. I would always be weary in changing any rebuilt engine until you are sure that oil consumption has stabilized.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    statistically speaking synthetics are very rare in new cars. most luxury marques only use them in their high-output models; M series bimmers, for example. regular cars with the roundel get mineral oil. (you're kinda new in this forum-- that's the term I use for oil from the ground. I personally don't think it came from dinosaurs.)

    no domestic vehicle except something very rare like a Viper or Corvette comes with synthetic. all the Japanese brands use mineral oil as well, although Toyota probably should've been using synthetic in those camrys and siennas, eh? ;-)

    -Colin
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