Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • dcm61dcm61 Member Posts: 1,567
    According to Subaru, no maintenance is required for the spin-on A/T filter. However, there is an internal screen/filter that may need periodic replacement depending upon how you use the vehicle (i.e. towing, hills, humid weather, etc.).

    DaveM
  • lilbluewgn02lilbluewgn02 Member Posts: 1,089
    After going to the following to try to track down the thumping noise from the driver's side front wheel in Susan's Legacy:
    1) our local mechanic - possible bearing problem, tire looks good and in balance
    2) our Subie mechanic - bearings are fine, no noise from them, listened with a stethoscope-like device
    3) the local Bridgestone dealer, all the tires are fine

    we are at a loss, but at least know the bearings are fine. The noise is still there and is an annoyance; it fluctuates with speed. What a strange problem...don't know what else it could be. Her car has approx. 17,600 miles.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    to be sure it's not the tire itself, has anyone rotated them?

    if so, I'd go for the bearing idea. you're well within warranty so I suppose you'll just have to wait until it gets louder before the dealer realizes what's up and fixes it.

    -Colin
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    I would be inclined to suspect the tire, I had an identical problem with continental tires, turned out the problem was an almost imperseptable flat spot on the tire.

    It actually happened twice on these particular tires and it was a defect in the tire,they tried balancing countless times with no improvement,it was discovered after doing what Colin suggested, moving the suspect tire to another corner of the car.

      Cheers Pat.
  • lilbluewgn02lilbluewgn02 Member Posts: 1,089
    They moved the original supect tire from the front to the back and the noise continues. Our Subie mechanic, who is a very good one and works only on Subarus, put the car on the lift with an assistant in the car, raised it off the ground and had the assistant bring the car up to various speeds while he listened with this thing...he heard no spected bearing failure noises, no strange vibrations or side-to-side movement.
    I guess this is what is frustrating...not being able to pinpoint the problem; to make it worse, Susan hates strange noises while she drives...she keeps saying that there were no noises in her 10-yr old Camry wagon.
    Maybe Patti can call in a SUPER-MECHANIC, able to leap over tall buildings.
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    The dealer called today and guess what -- they couldn't duplicate the problem.

    The service advisor was kind enough to offer leaving it just one more day to try again.

    It is intermittent so I took a gamble, but now I might get stuck with their "look at fee". What puzzles me is that I can get the RPM to vary with the clutch in/out everyday. :-(

    Ken
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    Ok, get ready because this is highly technical.

    Your car is possessed!

    Hope this helps,
    Dennis
  • hondafriekhondafriek Member Posts: 2,984
    Raven is sending a subliminal message that he wants a new home :-)

    Cheers Pat.
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Think you can stand having the WRX loaner for another day? ;)

    Bob
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Does the extended warranty cover exorcisms? :-)

    Yeah, the upside to this whole thing is that I get to drive the WRX wagon for two days. The rental charge (if not covered under warranty) is $20/day. I'd gladly pay that for just the test drive experience.

    What bums me is that if they can't find anything then I'm stuck with the consultation fee.

    Ken
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    Does the hillholder use the front or the rear brakes (or both)?

    John
  • rshollandrsholland Member Posts: 19,788
    Just keep the WRX...

    ;)

    Bob
  • bluesubiebluesubie Member Posts: 3,497
    That's what I did for my intermittent OBS clutch problem.

    -Dennis
  • shelleysawshelleysaw Member Posts: 5
    Hi there...been having oil leaking problems from my '99 Subaru Forester L since late November. Been to two dealerships (first one was just too far for me and the 2nd is just 1/2 hour from me) with the later dealing with the problem the most. They changed cam seals and other parts (I'm not up on all the right verbage here so please excuse me); the last time it was in the shop (2 weeks ago), they said, okay, start the mileage checker and we'll check with you once a week to see how much you're losing...well, went out of town for the weekend and after goin 510 miles, I lost 1.5 quarts of oil. So now, they want me to bring in the car, they're going to "smoke it", take apart the engine, look at the gaskets and valves again, and most likely, give me a new engine. I asked if I get a new warranty with the new engine and they said no, only what is remaining on my powertrain warranty which is either 10 miles or 9300 miles. Why don't I get a new warranty? what is something happens to that engine? Can someone please explain this to me? I currently have 50,700 miles on the car. Thanks! shelley
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Good question, John. Anyone know? paisan?

    Shelley: I believe any repairs are guaranteed, seperately, for a year. That's outside of your regular powertrain warranty, but I expect it would be covered, yes.

    But leaks tend to be on the Phase I, and some early Phase IIs, about 8% were affected in one survey. I bet your problem is the gaskets. Either way, I'm sure they'll use the gaskets from the newer models, which don't tend to have leak issues.

    -juice
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Serge: so they used what Patti calls "Ears". I still think it's the bearing. At least it's documented, so if they go you have records.

    Ken: call and ask to speak to the tester, go there and demonstrate if you have to. It's a problem you can reproduce, not just intermittent.

    Videotaping is another good suggestion.

    -juice
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Bob -- I freaked out Kana last night. I had gotten home before her and left the WRX wagon on the driveway. When she gave me a puzzled look, I told her I had traded it in. I almost had her, but she knew me well enough that I wouldn't buy a demo vehicle. ;-)

    juice -- Good ideas. Maybe I'll videotape it if possible.

    Ken
  • zman3zman3 Member Posts: 857
    I had my short block replaced at 53K. My understanding was that the warranty on the new block would be either the remainder of the factory warranty, or 12 months/12,000 miles, whichever was longer.

    I never needed the additional warranty however, so I am not certain.
  • ncgnitoncgnito Member Posts: 4
    Been meaning to post this and finally got to it... The lever that lifts my moonroof broke sometime last year on my 2000 Outback. After warranty of course. I had the service dept price the repair. The motor works fine and all parts look good except for the lever that tilts the roof. Repairing the roof would cost almost a thousand bucks. Parts alone were $800 dollars with more for labor. The thing I didn't understand is they haveto replace the whole moonroof assembly which includes both the front moonroof, middle moonroof, and related mechanisms. There is no way to purchase just the part that broke which to me looked like it couldn't cost more than $50. Anyway, tried writing a letter to Subaru cust. service and didn't get a response. Did sent an email through their website and they confirmed the cost and need to replace the whole assembly.

    Has anyone else had this problem? I've tried automobile dismantling shops but don't seem to find many late model Outbacks there.

    Any help would be appreciated on how to get this thing fixed. We're coming into warmer weather and would like to have the roof tilted open!
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Uh-oh. Strange thing happened this morning to the Miata. The clutch suddenly got soft, for about the first 3/4ths of its travel. Still worked, but the point of engagement was closer to the firewall than normal.

    It didn't quite sink to the floor, just got softer. What's bizarre is that about 10 miles later, it fixed itself.

    Should I start saving for a new clutch? Is there something I can adjust? I put in synthetic in the tranny/front diff, is that fluid shared with the clutch? If not, how do I change or at least add fluid to the clutch?

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    replied in the Miata topic already. ;-)

    -Colin
  • fibber2fibber2 Member Posts: 3,786
    You got me confused - it this your Forester or the Miata? Only that you mentioned 'front differential' on a RWD car?

    Your hydraulic clutch should have a reservoir on its master cylinder similar (in miniature) to what is found on the brake master on your firewall. The systems are separate - no fluid mixing between the gear oil and clutch actuator.

    Steve
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    The dealer called again and said they still couldn't replicate the problem. Given that it was intermittent, it's of no suprise. At the very least, it's documented now.

    As for the clutch in/out affecting RPMs during cold startup, I was told that it's normal. (?)

    They dealer is only going to charge me for the rental and not the labor to inspect the vehicle.

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Sorry, I must've been geezin'. Of course there isn't a front differential on the Miata. I was mixing it up with the 626 I had also worked on at about the same time.

    Ken: at least it didn't set you back much.

    -juice
  • buckingtransbuckingtrans Member Posts: 3
    Sounds like I am not the only one with clutch problems, but then why is SOA so clueless? Burning clutch smell since I got the car. Then at 6k miles, the clutch started fighting 1st and 2nd when cold, finally they replaced the clutch at 9k. The burning smell remained, the clutch started fighting me when cold at 17k. Replaced the clutch at 18k and 500 miles later, guess what?? Burning smell. Everyone at Subaru is mystified. Of course they won't look past the clutch to diagnose the real problem. I've been driving manual trans for over 35 years, and never had to replace a clutch. Has anyone actually had this problem fixed??
  • john889john889 Member Posts: 3
    I had clutch grabbing when cold for two years, but it did get better...I tend to fret over some tiny problems when I first got this brand new car, but gradually I let it go... and the car runs very well...I guess Subaru was made tight in the beginning, so it could last longer, but it may feel different earlier on. I still get some smell after I drove the car hard... but that is like us human, you know what I mean....
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Jon: my educated guess is that your flywheel is no longer "true", meaning it doesn't line up with even a brand-new clutch.

    They might have to take it apart to determine that, though.

    -juice
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Member Posts: 464
    Depending on when the last time you replaced your clutch, they may not have had the completely redesigned clutch available yet and were simply replacing your clutch with another bad one. In December of 2002 Subaru finally made available a completely redesigned clutch assembly (including flywheel) that seems to have cured the constant nightmare that my original clutch was. I endured 43K miles with a clutch that was almost undrivable at times (cold, humid conditions especially). The new clutch (so far) has made all the difference in the world. If your last clutch was installed prior to 12/02, I would guess that it is not the most current design and I would ask Subaru to update the entire clutch assembly in your car.

    Brian
  • russskirussski Member Posts: 47
    John: Hillholder uses rear brakes only.
    Please see my posting #1063 with the link attached. Just brouse through archive. There is a very good info about mechanics of hillholder

    Vitaly
  • mjmille7mjmille7 Member Posts: 10
    I had my clutch replaced a couple months ago on my 2002 Outback, don't exactly remember when, so I don't know whether or not it had the complete repair. Ever since the new clutch was installed, I get the burning rubber smell any time the car is driven for more than 30 min. I was kind of under the impression that was "normal", am I wrong?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Neither of our Subies smell like burned rubber. I'd let the dealer know about it.

    -juice
  • nygregnygreg Member Posts: 1,936
    There is an article about the Hill Holder in Drive magazine that I just received.

    Greg
  • forestergumpforestergump Member Posts: 119
    About a week ago, my 1999 Forester's "check engine" light came on. I immediately figured (or rather hoped) that it was a loose gas cap, so I stopped, re-tightened the gas cap, and sure enough, the light went out after a couple starts. This week, the same thing happened, and I re-tightened the gas cap and the light went out. However, just to be on the safe side, I made an appointment with my local dealer to run a diagnostics. This morning, the dealer ran the diagnostics, and told me that the knock sensor is out, and that it was going to be $250 to replace the part. Has anyone else experienced this, and if so, is the cost consistent with what you've experienced? Thanks.

    -Bob
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Seems like a reasonable fee for anything that close to the engine. You usually walk in the door and they want no less than $800 to fix anything (generally speaking, not Subaru specifically).

    -juice
  • forestergumpforestergump Member Posts: 119
    Too true. Although it seems to me that for a car, the minimum is always $500. For the house, everything is always a minimum of $1,000. Go figure.

    Just trying to check. Thanks.
    -Bob
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    board from my1stForester:

    "Just got a 03 Forester(Feb.27)At 2300 Km (approx 1500 miles)a few days ago noticed vibration/hesitation on the clutch while starting up even on a gentle slope (driveway). After a few stop-and-go on a relatively uphill street severe burning smell. Always driven manual trans. for over 30 years have a Probe GT manual as well never had this problem. Sticker says my Forester was manufactured in Dec.02 ANY SUGGESTIONS/IDEAS? It is quite annoying (and please do not blame my driving)"

    My question is, how do you find the manufactured date? I have searched all my documents and the Forester itself (purchased in March '03) and I can't find it.

    John
  • jmulholljmulholl Member Posts: 29
    I have a '00 legacy wagon with 58,000 mi. In the morning I reverse out of the driveway, but there will be a couple second delay before it engages into drive. Not that big of a deal to me, but I was wondering if this is a bad omen. Just about out of the powertrain warranty, so I would want to get it fixed, if possible. Thanks.
              Joe
  • dcabdcab Member Posts: 101
    Open your driver's side door and you'll find a plate with the date of manufacture in the lower right corner.
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    sounds like you're encountering the 'hill-holder' portion of the clutch.

    From the Forester section of Subaru.com:
    The return of the exclusive Subaru Hill-Holder clutch(TM) system on manual-transmission models helps prevent your vehicle from rolling back when you are starting on an incline.

    I'm not certain exactly how it's supposed to operate. You could try posting over in the Subaru Crew - Meet the Members topic also.

    -Brian
  • once_for_allonce_for_all Member Posts: 1,640
    It was right where you said... along with 5 other stickers on door. 09/02. Would have been nice to have the heavy duty clutch installed, but so far no problems. Big concern, of course, is that the "manual clutch assembly" is specifically excluded from warranty coverage. Has anyone with clutch work mentioned above been able to get it covered under warranty?

    John
  • kevin111kevin111 Member Posts: 991
    I am getting mine replaced this week, under warrenty, the new one with the modified material.
  • n8wvin8wvi Member Posts: 43
    We've got an 02 VDC sedan, and have had the same slow mysterious coolant loss other have had. I've even had the oil analyzed for coolant and it's come back negative both times. I finally noticed that there appears ( and the dealer now confirms ) that there's a SMALL leak somewhere in the seam between the top of the radiator and the fin part of the radiator. So small in fact that there's never been a drop of antifreeze on the garage floor. What I noticed was a growing deposit of greenish crystalline 'stuff' collecting around this seam. She goes in for a new radiator this Friday.
  • n8wvin8wvi Member Posts: 43
    We've got an 02 VDC sedan w/ 27K miles and I noticed the power steering fluid looks like it's been in there for 200K miles!!! I changed it immediately, using synthetic ATF, hoping this will help.

    Any thoughts on if it's the extra heat of the H-6, the extra weight of the car (one of the heaviest they've made, I believe), the frequent short trips (can this affect PS fluid), something else, or a combination of the above?

    Thanks
  • lucien2lucien2 Member Posts: 2,984
    This may sound stupid, but it might not hurt to reset the ECU. Since you had exhaust work done? *Shrug* I dunno, just 'coz it is an idle thing, I'd pull the fuse for a few minutes, drop it back in, start the car and let it sit for a couple minutes, see if the reset helps.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    if it's not low on ATF, take it in to the dealer before you hit that magical 60k.

    -Colin
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Let us know how the new radiador works (i.e. hopefully no such leak).

    I've only topped off, but never changed PS fluid.

    Do you carry heavy payloads? Check tire pressures to make sure everything's in spec.

    -juice
  • K9LeaderK9Leader Member Posts: 112
    I have a 2000 OB Ltd with 33K miles. I got it a month ago. I have been picking up the unmistakable odor of coolant in the cabin and outside the vehicle. There are no puddles on the garage floor (or on the ground anywhere). There is no obvious visual evidence of a leak (no droplets of coolant sprayed anywhere inside the engine compartment). I will check the radiator to see if there is anything similar to what n8vwi noted above. I will also do a search for this coolant loss issue, but would also appreciate any info anyone may have.
    --K9Leader
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Did you do a 30k service yet?

    I'd flush the radiator and check to make sure the coolant is not mixed with any oil. Also, change the oil and check if the oil is clean.

    I recycle fluids in clear containers so I can inspect whatever comes out, so this is easy.

    -juice
  • n8wvin8wvi Member Posts: 43
    Juice, no, the heaviest loads we've carried is a few bags of groceries, and we do no towing. I'm also very careful w/ tire pressures just 'cuz I hate wasting gas.
  • K9LeaderK9Leader Member Posts: 112
    I was planning to get the oil changed this week (maybe today if I can get out of work early enough, but maybe not until Friday when I'm off), and was thinking that a coolant flush would be a good idea as well. Can you help me out with what oil in the coolant or coolant in the oil would mean? (he asks with foreboding).
    --K9Leader
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