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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Gas: just drove from DC to CT and back, and prices were best in MD just north of Baltimore ($1.459), though NJ turnpike was close ($1.489) and that's full serve!

    25mpg on the way up and 27mpg back, with more traffic. Go figure.

    PSI: I'm running 33psi. 29/26 was too soft and bouncy.

    For off roading, I tried 20psi and it was still too firm. 18psi worked best for me in the deep, soft sand. I'd try 20psi for off road and adjust it from there based on your needs.

    Paul: I bet those lug nuts were over-torqued, probably by far.

    Eric: your exhaust is fine. That's how mine is shaped. Believe me, I've spent at least a few hours under Sandy.

    The good news is that it can flex upward quite a bit, since they're on rubber hangers, so if you scrape it you should be fine. You'd really have to bang it up to do damage.

    tex: OBD2 is a pain. They actually designed it to give the driver less information so you'd have to go to a dealer for even minor problems.

    When I was shopping for a used Miata, several people advised that I go with a pre-ODB2 or even an older pre-OBD model. They're more tolerant of mods, too.

  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    Was mandated by the Federal Government. It monitors more parameters than the non-obd2 vehicles. It was not designed to give more work to the dealers, but to more closely control emissions. Older systems could be out of spec and not throw a problem code, hence the added sensitivity.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I agree for the most part, but I'd add that they pretty much assumed all owners were complete blithering idiots and needed this idiot light that simply won't turn off until you visit a dealership.

    Seems excessive for a loose gas cap. Why not give specific codes if the owners can very easily fix it?

  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    The car doesn't know why there is an air leak, it just senses the pressure drop. Also most people and some repair shops don't have the knowledge or equiptment to properly diagnose or repair emission related problems. Part of the reason for the OBD2 is that it will throw and retain codes to facilitate diagnosis of emission related problems.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Actually, it's smarter than you'd think. It can track a single engine misfire down to the exact cylinder in which it happened.

    I just wish the codes were more specific. "Check Engine" for a loose gas cap? C'mon...

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    A little late, but...

    Mike, 70lb-ft is correct for alloy wheels. Try 80-85 for steel, but not more than that or you'll ruin the studs.

    By the way, a good way to break loose lugs without getting an aching back is to put the wrench on and sticking out parallel to the ground (9 o'clock). Now stand on the wrench.

  • tincup47tincup47 Posts: 1,508
    I realise it is very sophisticated, but how is the car going to determine if the cap is loose or there is a hole somewhere in the system? If there is a hole, that should be fixed at the dealer. The car will also throw the same code if you fill the car with gas with the engine running. The system does reset as Patti said.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    It came on for me a few weeks ago. I've had the hesitation (97 OBS) for a few years now. The only thing the dealer found was a "loose vacuum hose". Sure enough the hesitation came back with a vengeance and the c.e. light even came on. Added some Sunoco 94 and disconnected the battery. No more c.e. light and no more hestitation (for now anyway).
    If a loose gas cap is the cause of the c.e. light, wouldn't an ECU reset after tightening the cap do the trick?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I like Colin's idea. Just make sure you get the socket all the way in to the lug nut so it does not slip and strip it.

    tincup: actually, that's not quite correct. I've filled up with the engine running before and no light came on. I know this is not recommended but I had simply forgotten and it idles quietly.

    Anyhow, we could debate this to death, but it's not up to Subaru since it's federally mandated so I'll let you have the last word on the subject.

  • I had 3 different occasions on my old '95 Blazer (OH MAN, what an awfull vehicle, but that's another story.) where the check engine light came on. Took it to my mechanic each time only to find that it "never stored a code". Like I said, awfull vehicle!
    I agree with Juice that OBD2 should provide more data.
  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    My dad's Legacy threw the CE light after a fuel stop. I had him disco the battery over night, bam probalem solved. He was ready to run to the dealer for a $90 rape me for diagnostic charge...

  • royallenroyallen Posts: 227
    Darlene is back and she is apologetic that orders are delayed due to her illness. My order of mid October was ready for UPS pickup today.
  • Juice, full serve is the LAW in New Jersey. The pols there think we're too stupid to pump our own gas. Plus, of course you got better mileage on the way back - it's downhill! Just look at a map ;-)

    As for breaking lug nuts loose, I do the stand-on-a-pipe routine as a last resort. I've found that a "short, sharp shock"[1] with a decent breaker bar has a very good effect. I've amazed friends doing this in the past, even one guy who was heavy into body building (I'm not exactly a muscular guy); he was trying to get the lug nuts loose on his car, and couldn't. I walked up and, pop! Boy was he p*ssed .

    Use a long enough breaker bar; mine is an 18" long 1/2" drive model. Put it on the lug nut so that it is roughly parallel to the ground and so that an upward pull will loosen the nut. Lean over it with your back straight your arms cocked. Pull UP on it gently to remove all slack. Then give a hard, sharp yank up towards your chest, all motion with your arms and none with your back. Works for me, even when the wheels were last put on by the ham-fisted mechanic who has no idea what torque is. If I'm using one of those X-wrenches I do the same thing except with a push-pull on opposite ends of the X. It's not quite as effective but should get most of them. The key is to remove the slack first and then to make a quick, sharp motion.


    [1] Okay, who am I quoting this time?
  • miksmimiksmi Silver Spring, Maryland, USAPosts: 1,246
    Colin, thanks for the torque for alloys in <36</A>>. In what manual is that located, or is that one of those things that's common knowledge?

    WDB, I was mistaken in <20-21</A>>. I tried 0.75 in and 19.0 mm sockets on the lug nut; both had equal play. Lo mismo, just as you said. Forgive my incredulousness, oh wise one. Oh, and thanks for the Palm conversion app, I'll dl it mañana.

    [1] I shan't hazard a guess.



  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    As over-tightened as they get, my X-wrench has never let me down. You can apply twice the power.

    Some shops even apply some "yucky gooey stuff" (pardon the technical jargon) so the nuts don't slip, and it's never been a problem.

  • ..who? Heh, no, I got it from the same place she probably did, Pink Floyd's "Dark Side of the Moon" LP.

  • dark side of the moon?

    you blokes are starting to show some real potential!!!
  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Posts: 1,676
    I'm so impressed! One of my favorite albums!(hey, remember them??)
  • p0926p0926 Posts: 4,423
    Remember albums? Are you kidding? I've still got a collection of 45s including one of Tiny Tim tiptoeing thru the tulips. :o)
  • A couple of questions:

    Does anyone make a front protector (bra) for the 2001 Forester other than the Subaru-branded one?

    Why is it that there seems to be only one Subaru version? I thought that the lights and hood changed a bit in 2001; wouldn't that affect the fit?

    By the way, horror stories notwithstanding, bras can be used long term with perfect safety--the only possible exception being Vancouver/Seattle type weather. Wax the hell out the hood (etc.) before putting them on and make sure that they are not flapping about. I've had one almost continuously on my '92 Prelude, which has been outside the whole time. There's no way to distinguish the covered from the normally uncovered parts of the hood.

    But then, I probably wouldn't try this with GM or Ford paints...

  • nvynvy Posts: 74
    Why how could we forget.I was certainly

  • armac13armac13 Posts: 1,129
    No one remembers Tiny Tim (or at least admits to it). How old are you anyway Frank?

    (Old Geezer)Ross
  • p0926p0926 Posts: 4,423
    Ross- What I'm trying to figure out is how anybody ever liked him in the first place. You listen to that song now and it's like fingernails on a chalk board!

    -Frank P.
  • you is one sick puppy bro

  • I was there (and of an age to be paying attention to such things) for them both, and a few before that. I guess "General Maintenance and Repair" is a good choice for this discussion, as we appear to be a group which is reaching that stage of our lives :-)

  • miksmimiksmi Silver Spring, Maryland, USAPosts: 1,246
    hehe good one WDB.


  • miksmimiksmi Silver Spring, Maryland, USAPosts: 1,246
    MY00 Legacy/Outback central panel removal guide by Serge Nikulin <<A HREF="">> on the Outack mlist.



  • On a AWD Lecacy Wagon, do you:

    1) Not use any chains
    2) Put chains on front
    3) Put chains on rear
    4) Put chains on all wheels

    If chains are used on just front or rear, do you need to disable the AWD.

  • My Forester manual says don't use chains, but if I must, use them only on front, never on back or on all four wheels.

    No need to disable the AWD.

    Note that the above is NOT personal experience -- I live in Phoenix, AZ, it was 65 degrees outside today :-).

  • The Legacy/OB manual says the same thing; front wheels only. I had it explained to me once upon a time by an off-roader but I don't remember the explanation well enough to repeat it.

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