Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

subaru_team

As we've come to expect, Juice is right. You do not need to pull the engine to change the plugs. It's a bit tight, but not enough require taking out the engine.

Patti

erics6

I appreciate you calling me. It's great to have someone like you working for SOA. Gives me confidence in Subaru. I hope we can find a solution soon.

To be honest, I'd really like to get the rough idle/MAF sensor problem fixed first. I can live with the pinging problem, since using super unleaded seems to solve that problem. Just costs me extra money for gas.

Thanks
Eric

henne

the rear window has a short in the defroster and they have to replace the whole window. now i get to go pick up the car and bring int back in a few weeks for the 6th time in less than 3 months. should i be worried about subaru quality? or should this just be chocked up to bad luck?

robert

paisan

It's only 1 problem I wouldn't worry about it too much. At least the rear window isn't sporadically exploding! or the lower control arms aren't cracking...

-mike

originalbitman

I wouldn't call it a quality of construction problem but perhaps a quality of the dealer's service department problem... taking so long in diagnosing what was wrong.

bit

ateixeira

Tom: usually that stuff burns off as you drive, but if it's raining out you could be bringing that smell home with you. A good washing of the undercarriage is a good idea right about now, since snow season is ending.

If yours is brand new, that "new car stench" can last a couple of months. I found it nauseating. Patti - any way we could suggest they use a less toxic-smelling undercoating?

-juice

dannyka

While my Forester was in the shop Saturday, the dealer lent me a new Forester. I noticed the smell that you're all talking about -- it was really strong, in fact. What's interesting is that I didn't notice that smell at all with my own brand new Forester. Does that mean my car doesn't have the undercoating?

-Dan

ateixeira

Nope, they all do, even the US made Legacys.

It may have been applied more carefully? Just a guess.

-juice

theob

Patti,

Thanks again for the response. Looking at the engine compartment, I thought you should be able to replace them w/o major effort. Like you said, it's tight. Since it was posted publicly that the engine had to be pulled, I wanted to make sure that it was refuted publicly from an authorative source. ;-)
Theo

nygreg

There are places that will pop out the dent with special tools. It's really cheap and some will even come to your work. I've seen a local detail shop offer this as well as some body shops. Ask around.

-Greg

subaru_team

Hi. I'm not sure why they go with the smelly stuff. I don't think it is usually too bad unless some gets onto the exhaust or the heat shields.

I'll let you know what I find out!

Patti

locke2c

Cosmoline is used because it is a rust preventative, and you cannot have the cars rusting on the ocean voyage from Japan.

A car produced in Indiana shouldn't have any cosmoline on it, I would think.

-Colin

hsilva

Nygreg:
Thanks for the info, but there is no dent. The paint only was chipped out - right down to the metal. What I need is info on how to get the touch up to look smooth and more like the rest of the paint.

originalbitman

It is a pain in the butt trying to use that little paint brush and the thick sticky paint that comes in the touch up bottle and get a smooth finish. The best you can do is make sure its a warm day, you shake the paint bottle to mix well and work rather quickly. The more you push the paint around the lumpier it gets. A better brush helps... even a cheapy kids brush is better. But best might be to go to a detail shop that does touch ups. Even the guys that do door dings can do a good jog of a paint chip for not too much cash. Ask your dealer (not mine...hah) who they use for touch ups.

bit

ateixeira

I've heard they do apply the same undercoating at SIA. True, Patti?

-juice

shndvnca

Hello all,

While doing a little off-roading over the weekend in my
Forester, I managed to lightly scrape the bottom of the
vehicle just behind the front wheels (on a sand/gravel
hill shaped like a large speed bump). Everything seems
fine but I wanted to ask if there's anything under there
that would get damaged in this situation that I should
get checked out.

Thanks!

originalbitman

Under the sand hill?

Probably a body. In that case the damage was most likely already done.

bit

paisan

I always tell my boys to dig a nice deep hole, at least 2-3' before burying a body. I don't want to wreck anyone's undercarriage! It's the kinder gentler mob these days!

-mike

nygreg

Now I know why you guys are always discussing 6.5" vs. 7.3". Clearance that is.

-Greg

seamus3

patty, or anyone else:

what causes the fuel to come through unburned? i made an appointment with the mechanic that my parents go to for some other stuff and will have them look at it. but i can't get in there until almost the middle of next month, they keep busy. is this a problem that i should be concerned with? will it cause serious damage to my car or is it more of a nuisance? thanks.

pattim3

I think (and I'm not a techie), that the brand of the fuel has a lot to do with it. There is one popular brand that I will not use. My kids were getting blamed for doing "things" in the car that they were not "doing". I realized it was the car. I changed brands and I don't have a problem. If it is the fuel, you'll notice it more on hard acceleration. Other things could be: bad catalyst (if you hear a rattle like marbles in a tin can), or additives to fuel. You're dealer will be able to sort it out. In the meantime, they sell fuel sample kits at most automotive stores. They are pretty cheap. You might want to check that.

Thanks!

Patti

hsilva

Bit:
Thanks for the info re paint chip. I also checked out another forum on Edmunds that talks about exterior paint etc. exclusively. Many had suggestions about something called Langka that is supposed to smooth out touch up paint. Has anyone had any experience with this? Some people also recommended using acetone or nail polish remover. Won't something like that damage the clear coat finish?
Any tips and info will be appreciated.

locke2c

quote: if you hear a rattle like marbles in a tin can

Patti, to me that type of noise under hard acceleration is something I would attribute to detonation!

Now if the car is off and cooled down, and you tap the catalyst(s) lightly and hear something rattling inside, then yes they probably are in need of replacement.

-Colin

kens

Anyone try the Purolator PureONE filters? Purolator's website advertises as it offering superior performance (FYI, the size that fits the Forester is PL14460).

Ken

subaru_team

You might be right (you are much more technical than I am). It has just been my experience that the detonation noise you refer to is lighter and can be heard towards the front of the cabin. The "tin can" I was referring to is something that you can clearly hear from underneath the car. It's similar to the noise you can hear from a loose heat shield.

Anyway, as always, thanks!

Patti

paisan

Question about my.subaru.com can people with older cars get access on there? I'd love to see the service record of my car.

-mike

kens

Hugo,

What have you done for crush washers?

Ken

rsholland

A strange thing happened to me today with my wife's Forester. I was in a strip mall's parking lot, and I couldn't unlock the vehicle with the remote. Nothing would work. The lights didn't flash or anything. I then opened it with the key, the alarm went off, and I deactivated it by turning the ignition switch 3 times quickly.

I then drove to the Subaru dealer, and mentioned it to the service advisor. I thought that because I armed the system maybe 10 minutes after vehicle was turned off, that maybe there was some sort of timer on the system. He said there wasn't. I made several other stops on the way home and the alarm worked fine.

Upon getting home, I mentioned it to my wife, and she said that yesterday she had the same problem in the same strip mall parking lot!

Question: Is it possible that some store burglar alarms may be on the same radio frequency as the Subaru's alarm, and somehow interferes with it's operation?

Anybody??

Bob

subearu

My OB doesn't have the security system, just the standard keyless entry.

2 weeks ago, we pulled into our garage (as normally as we've done before). Upon exiting, I got a pretty good static shock as I touched the door. About 2 seconds later, our OB chirped the 3 horn signal for an open door and then proceeded to go into full panic with lights and horns (like the alarm went off). (Remember, I DON'T have the upgrade, just the standard keyless.) I managed to turn off the 'alarm' by clicking OPEN on my key FOB. We shut the doors, I clicked LOCK and waited a few minutes. I clicked UNLOCK, opened the driver door, sat down, and all was fine again.

My only explanation was that the static shock I got upon exit must have whacked the key FOB a bit and caused it to go nuts. It hasn't happened since, so I won't worry about.

It's very possible that the strip mall you were at had some excessive radio waves going around which made your key FOBs not work. I'm not sure what would be the source - maybe area lights, solar flares, ???. Maybe someone here is an electrical engineer and can provide a better explanation.

-Brian

seamus3

i mostly use Shell gasoline. i will hunt out my catalyst give it a tap and listen for the "marbles in a tin can."

thank you all.
seamus

hammersley

Ever since the custom wheels went on, I had a pretty good shake from about 60mph on up... figured a rebalance was in order. Discovered I needed a set of "wheel rings" that insert in the hub hole on the wheels.

Explanation by my tire guys was that Subarus are normally "hub centric" with OEM wheels - wheels fit snugly over the center hub, and therefore vertical alignment is correct. With some aftermarket wheels, the hub hole is slightly oversize, and the wheels can be snugged on to the hub slightly off-center, creating an out-of-balance sensation even if the tires were weighted correctly. Wheel rings convert them to "lug-centric". Problem was so bad a few seasons ago, the tire shop bought a significant quantity of steel Sube wheels to have on hand, to avoid the hassle!

5 bucks later, I'm down the road at 70+ just as smooth as can be! (but i'm not saying how much +)

Cheers!
Paul (which has same number of letters as Dave)

henne

i had a truck a few years back that i couldnt park anywhere near a automatic door like at malls and grocery stores, if i did i had to push the truck away from the signal and it would crank with no problems, park in from of the door and it wouldnt start at all.

it happens

robert

ateixeira

Shane: you probably scraped the front cross-member, no big deal. Check the oil pan to make sure it's ok.

My remote doesn't have much range, but it's never acted up like that.

-juice

pattim3

I have heard of some folks that have "frequency" issues in some places. I read this here before and it really does work. Put the remote on your chin (I know - it looks stupid) and it works usually. I have no idea why - but I tried it with some other folks and it did the trick.

Strange but true??

Patti

hondafriek

When you put the remote to your chin you are boosting the frequency you are actually using your body as a large transmitter.
Cheers Pat.

shndvnca

Juice, thanks for the reply. I figure it's ok but I'm glad I
asked since I hadn't thought of the oil pan. All I could
see without putting the Forester on a lift (or crawling under
there) was a black, plastic case (over the wheel axle?)
and the driveshaft. The front wheels must have been off
the ground briefly since I could feel the power shift to the
rear wheels. I'll have them look at it next time I take it in
(already 23k miles and less than a year old).

paisan

I do it all the time. You need to open your mouth when you do the chin trick. It gives me 2x-3x the range!

-mike

locke2c

Got a lot of bridge work Mike? :-P

-Colin

paisan

None actually

-mike

originalbitman

Actually if you grip the remote with your teeth (positioned so you can bite down on the button) and extend your arms you can boost the range to a quarter mile.

bit

locke2c

LOL!

ttamatruda

Thanks for your note re undercoating and smells. I stil think that the smell I am encountering is a clutch problem. Why should the smell be worse if I accelerate to go over a snowbank, or reverse for a short distance?

ron3805

Have a new 01 Forester S that I bought in January (which, of course, I love). The oil level on the dipstick is always way above the max fill level. It was this way when I took delivery and the same after a dealer oil change at 3000 miles. I have taken the "readings" when it had been sitting on a level surface after more than 12 hours of not being driven (live in Seattle where the winter night/day temp is usually well above freezing). I have completely wiped off the dipstick several times, but the results are the same.
Any ideas?
Ron

armac13

Some copy writer is going to get a quick ride to advertising oblivion. Extolling the safety of their tires, the announcer says "and they have greater stopping distance ..." Oops! Truth in advertising?? LOL

Ross

originalbitman

It is possible the dealer is overfilling the crankase. It has happened to me. Odd that is was overfilled from the factory. Perhaps your reading after the oil change was more accurate? It is tuff to get a good reading but as you indicated the best is cold on a flat surface and wipe that stick clean. The reading should be at the top level mark. If the engine is hot and allowed to drain a little (2-5 minutes or so) It should be at the notch as it has expanded due to the heat.

When my GT was overfilled (a good inch past the top level) by a dealer I took it back. The mechanic was POed that I question his work but the service manager agreed it was overfilled and had the mechanic drain some oil out. A little over is perhaps okay. A lot can be harmful.

bit

pattim3

I think it might work even better if you pop on a set of your kids Easter Bunny ears. More height?

;~}

Patti

armac13

in particularly difficult areas. :~)

Ross

ateixeira

I can picture people actually trying Patti's suggestion...

Tom: could be that driving over a snow bank probably puts extra stress on your drivetrain. Reversing probably smells because you are staying in the general vicinity of the odor.

Reminds me of my old Chevy Sprint. I drove from DC to La Guardia with it, and the whole time my clutch was frying. I was in Jersey, so naturally the smell blended in with the background, and I didn't figure out it was my clutch!

My buddy dropped me off, and then drove it home - but the clutch gave on his way back. He had to get it towed and it ended up costing me a small fortune!

Lesson? Rotten eggs = check your clutch.

Ron: how much are they putting in? 4.5 quarts is the most mine will take, and that's fully drained and with an empty oil filter.

I'm not sure how you can drain only some of it without making a huge mess, though.

Ross: good one. I had Yokos on my Escort and they were actually pretty good, a definite improvement over the stock Eagle GT+4s.

-juice

nygreg

What is the possibility that the stick length is wrong?

-Greg

ateixeira

Pretty low, I'd guess. They probably just added 5 quarts.

Some auto shops have those huge oil drums, and oil pours out rather quickly, so it's hard to be precise.

-juice