Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

anibalb

KArin,

Your owner's manual actually has instructions on how to do it. Mine does. I have 01 Outback. Where in CA are you? It seems there are a lot of CA people on these posts. Maybe we should get together some time. I don't have a scanner or else I could scan my instructions and send them to you! Sorry. It is really easy though. Just remove a few plastic clips to to remove the plastic shield. That is done so that you can access the filter. And that is it. I did my first oil change at 3K.

Anibal

kwelss

Hmmmm... I'll have to look again. If the instructions are actually in my owner's manual, then this technical writer will have to shame-facedly admit that she asked an RTFM (Read The, ahem, Fabulous Manual) question.

Anibal, I'm located in Pleasanton/Dublin. My Forester is a Sedona Red Premium with a yellow splat... you may have seen me around if you're in the Walnut Creek area:



Karin in California

nygreg

Thanks for the tutorial. Question, why does Subaru use a hydraulic pretensioner? My Camry uses a spring which is very easy to move by hand. No presses needed. Also, is it recommended to change the water pump too (i.e. is it driven by the timing belt)?

Thanks again,
-Greg

locke2c

No, modern Subarus-- since about 97 IIRC-- have electric water pumps. Replace it when it gets loud, that's my credo on water pumps. It's $58 though, I got a quote from Ryan @ Irvine Subaru when I wasn't sure what my overheating problem was.

I don't know for sure why Subaru uses a hydraulic tensioner instead of a spring. I know that they had a manual tensioner before...

-Colin

gof4

I have a '01 LL Bean with 1400 miles. I notice that when I first back out of my driveway in the morning the brakes squeal like a pig & than I don't seem to notice it anymore during the day, even after it has sat at work all day.
Any comments? Is this normal?
By the way... must say this car is the quietest, most comfortable & enjoyable car that I have ever owned. I am really glad I opted for the H-6.
So far I have been averaging 20 mpg of mixed driving & I can't complain with that. Certainly better than any SUV in my opinion.

pattim3

good information on the timing/cam belts. One thing to note - the belts have a white mark on them to help with lining them up with the cams.

Patti

P. S. - I double check about the spring/hydrolic tensioners. I know we have both but I can't remember which is in each engine. Since we tore down the 2.2, 2.5 and the 3.0, I just can't place (from home) which was which. I'll post info. later.

nygreg

I find that removing the plugs during timing belt change makes it a lot easier to rotate the crank and keeps things from rotating. I then replace with new plugs and tune the car. Electric water pump? Now that I find interesting. Must help during stop and go traffic on a hot day (engine idle too low for sufficient flow). Your a great source of info, thanks.

Patti: I would be interested on info regarding the pretensioner. Thankyou.

Love this stuff,
-Greg

anibalb

Karin,

Do you work out there? What do you do? There are a lot of Subies in W.C. But who knows maybe I have seen you. I like all this info on the timming belts. I have just never done one and can't exactly picture all these things like ligning up the cams. I think the 01 OB is a SOHC. Is that correct? Half of you people should be mechanincs. I would use you. Should we open up a Subaru service station in the Bay Area???? With reasonable prices?

coleend

Hello, I test drove a Subaru Legacy OB and loved it. Really would like the 4WD since I live in the Northeast and commute 37 miles one way. Only other car in the running is the Honda Accord. My son-in-law mechanic says go with the Honda because the Subaru parts are imported (read expensive and hard to get) and everything is in the engine "backwards", so it will be expensive to repair down the line. Any argument I can give him on this?

paisan

Well the legacies are all made in Indiana, and a lot of parts are/will be available for them. The AWD system isn't as complicated as everyone thinks, and is probably cheaper to repair than the transversally mounted honda accord engines. Also the benefits IMHO outweigh the costs. AWD v. FWD is like night and day.

-mike

nygreg

As a person who owns Toyotas and is now in the process of purchasing an OB, here's my take. I always thought Honda's were more expensive to fix. After looking under the hood of an Accord I decided to buy the Camry (in 92). Bottom line - Hondas, Subarus and Toyotas will not need that much maintenance. I recommend you purchase the car You Like. Keep in mind that all Subarus have the beauty of all wheel drive (had to say it!). And after our past winter.... Anyway, I live in NY, north of the city if you need dealer info. Hey, maybe we can purchase together and get a break. Good luck.

Sorry to ramble,
-Greg

locke2c

Don't look now but there are two interesting (and so far, uncluttered) discoveries on the iClub with the WRX. The first is Glenn Wallace attempting to formalize the MIL reporting. You can see the thread here.

The second is a paint/primer problem on the Blase' Yellow... err, Blaze Yellow cars. Apparently the fenders are not primed properly resulting in a slightly paler color (it's pale to start with...) and it might affect the door handles and hood scoop too. Read about it here.

-Colin

paisan

At the East Coast PIO facility there are no more yellow spoilers, how do you like that? That's the 3rd WRX item...

-mike

jackleung

I am very upset today coz my Forester's (just brought it 3 months ago!!!) windshield was hitted by a rock and have a dent on the passenger side. Any suggestion for how to repair it? I heard the way that those windshield repair shop do will NOT prevent the windshild cracking from the dent but will make the situtation worse coz they will grind the glass and apply something on it. Therefore, the thickness of the glass will be decrease and become more easy to crack. Is it true?

BTW, anyone knows the cost to replace the windshield? I see there is some heating wire attached on the bottom of windshield glass and that may require to get the part direatly from Subaru dealership. I guess it would cost a lot and I am just curious to ask.

Rgds,
Jack

pattim3

Due to the requirements of my position, etc., etc., I cannot go into a lot of detail on this. However, while there are over 125 reasons for a CEL/MIL - there is a very good chance for a quick, easy, really minor fix to some of them. If you know of anyone who is having a problem that their dealer cannot address, they SHOULD ask their dealer to call our Tech. Helpline. I think it will make these owners happy, because we like to resolve issues.

Thanks,

Patti

jei

Jack

My '99 Forester "S" took a stone in the windshield when it was about 9 months old. I replaced its windshield under glass coverage, and had to insist on the original equipment windshield with the heating wires at the bottom. It cost (the insurance company) about $900 US.

It may be a good idea to get the stone ding "repaired" right away if you don't have glass coverage or want to postpone replacing the windshield. I waited a month and the ding turned into a crack. The spot repair doesn't weaken the glass as far as I know. Good luck.

John

locke2c

Thanks for the info Patti, and I definitely understand your position.

re: windshields

Many of 2.5RS owners have had lots of trouble with stonechips in the windshield. I got my first one within a month of owning the car, second one about 4 months ago, and a third just recently. They are small but noticeable-- no threat to spread to the rest of the window IMO.

I've also noticed that the entire windshield is heavily pitted, no doubt from all the dust, sand and salt here in Kansas.

Nevertheless none of my previous vehicles have had this sort of trouble-- the pitting bothers me the most-- and some of them had a much less inclined windshield or were older cars.

-Colin

kens

Jack,

How big is the ding? If it's fairly deep, it might pay to have it filled in by a local auto glass shop.

I had my windshield replaced on my 98 Forester (no heating elements in glass) after 2.5 years when a rock created a 12" long crack. The cost to me was $150.

I too have noticed that the Forester windsheild is quite susceptible to getting chips. This topic has been discussed to some extent. Some feel it's the upright position of the windshield while some think it might be the glass itself.

Ken

kate5000

I called Livermore Subaru and SantaCruz Subaru -- both quoted me $99.95 plus tax on 7.5K service for my Forester. Seems too high to me, for just rotating wheels and oil change. They said, they'll check car's "overall condition"...

What do you think, should I go for it or go to independent mechanic? I have Subaru currency (accumulated from Subaru MBNA card) to pay for the service, but still -- $99.95? Grrr...

yellowbikedon

Kate:

An oil change ranges between $20-25, tire rotation runs about $20 and the balance which represents about 45 minuts of a preventive check accounts for the rest of the dollars. Do what makes you comfortable.

Don

kens

Kate,

$100 is a bit high for what's recommended for a 7.5K mile service interval. I personally only take my vehicle in for the "big" ones like 30K, 60K, 90K etc. You can get the oil change and tire rotation done for about half that amount at any auto shop.

On the other hand, Santa Cruz Subaru has very good service and I'm sure they'll do the job right. I would take it to them if I had some other warranty related question.

Ken

subearu

I mentioned this a while back: I had my '00 OB into the dealer last month for this. I just had a lube/oil/filter and tire rotation for $39.

-Brian

pattim3

While I cannot recommend your going elsewhere for service, I can review what they are "including" and give you some advise. You are not in "extreme" driving conditions, so just go by what is in the back of your Warranty and Maintenance booklet. Then, price shop. Your warranty is not in jeopardy. For the biggies, like Ken said, it is good to go to a dealer because they might find some things that can be handled under warrany.

Thanks!

Patti

pattim3

Hi all - Well my memory was only slightly off.

Hydrolic - all 2.0, 2.2, 2.5 and 3.0
Better overall for the vehicle to keep the belt on right

Spring - 1.8 - Loyale (remember those) only. Not on Impreza 1.8's.

Hope this helps.

Patti

yellowbikedon

Kate,

Here's a list of what's done at the dealership I use for the 7,500 mile service:
Change oil and filter
Install BG MOA (?)
Rotate tires
Inspect brakes
Check all hoses and belts
Adjust tire pressure
Replenish fluid levels as needed
Inspect exhaust system

The cost for the service is $79.95 plus tax.

I hope this gives you some more ideas.

Don

PS: If you find out what BG MOA is, let me know!

tincup47

BG is a company that makes fluid additives. MOA would syand for Motor Oil Additive, not recommended by any manufacturer, or required to maintain warranty coverage.

dsackman

I did a 7.5K service on the Forester and paid $150 for it. The shop claimed that they did more than the minimum needed by Subaru. My advice is to shop around or insist that the dealer does what is required by Subaru, and not what they want add on. The Outback is due for its first oil change and hopefully I will be able to get what Subaru requires at a reasonable price from a Subaru shop.
Beware of what you sign when you drop the vehicle off.

Daniel

rsholland

I think most dealers see the service department as the "real" profit center for the dealer. They may not make much money on the sale of the vehicle, but hope to reap the rewards from repeat service on "scheduled" and "unscheduled" maintenance.

"Buyer Beware" is never more true than here.

Bob

jackleung

John: So, were U go to dealership to replace yr windshield? Is the heating element on the bottom for keeping away the fog or avoiding the stuck of wiper in winter?

Ken: The ding is very small at passenger side and not very noticeable. But it still hurt my heart a lot seen this car is the first one fully owned and choosed by me. (I had a very old Ford Escort which was given by my sis, which doesn't had anything except a sterring wheel and 4 wheels... eg:no power sterring, no air conditioning etc). So, where do U go for the replacement? (I thought it's very hard to find(& expensive) to have replacement coz Forest is not as popular Honda & Toyota.) Any noticeable diffence without the heating element?

Thanks,
Jack

henne

when you slide the sunroof back does it stop when it gets tucked inside the roof? mine stops but you can still here the motor trying to keep pushing it back. is there supposed to be a limit switch of some sort? it stops when its closed, it even stops halfway so not to crush your fingers. it just keeps running when tucked inside the roof, any answers?

thank you,

robert

ebahe

We bought our y2k cutback limited in 1999 brand new. Since we've had it we have had many problems and here are a list of problems we have encountered:
1) the driver-side (only driver-side) window makes really loud wind noise. We took it to the dealer 3 times and every time they did something but never reduced the wind noise. We are tired of driving 50 miles every time, so we just live with it now.
2) Check engine light kept going on and after 2 trips to the dealer, they changed the censor and it is actually FIXED.
3) One fuel injector failed while we were 250 miles away. We made it home and greatly unhappy about it. But they fixed that one too.
4) The remote key entry some times simply do not work, get this, we were standing literily right next to the car and the car simply will not get the signal from the remote. (we were really worried that we were not going to be able to get in the car.)We have not talked yet with our dealer on this one.
5) The windshield wiper system gets frozen when it reaches certain temp. We live in Wisconsin and I tell you we need those washer fluid run in the winter. We have not talked yet with our dealer.
6)Now a new problem. For the past few days there is a terrible burn smell after our driving. We are mechanically challenged people but we did check oil and it seems to be clean and full. We have not talked to our dealer on this issue either.

As you can see next time I am going to the dealer we have a list for them to fix. Our car just passed 20,000 mile mark. I am just wondering if any of you have some general ideas about the problems we are encountering and maybe we can recommend what you can provide us to the dealer. There seems to be so many good advices here.

Thank you.

Ellen

wmiller4

I can not answer all of your questions but the remote problem may be caused by the battery in the "key fob" remote control being weak. Try replacing it. ( A little tip to increase your range on the remote, hold it to your chin and then hit the button. Sounds weird but it works!) You can always use your key to gain entry to your car if the remote fails to work at all. The windshield washer fluid freezing may be caused by a "summer" mix of the "blue stuff". Some service centers mix water with the blue stuff for use in the summer. You do not have to worry about it freezing in the summer so no worries about mixing in water. I use Prestone De-Icer Windshield Fluid straight no mixing with water at all. (It is yellow in color.) It is a little more expensive but it will not freeze down to -34 degrees. I live in Michigan and it has come in very handy in the winter. It even removes frost and light ice with no scraping! I leave it in all year aound and I have never had any trouble with freezing in the winter.

kens

Jack,

There are lots of shops that specialize in auto glass. You can go to any one you find convenient -- any shop can order the right glass for your Forester. Prices may vary so it pays to call around. Also, have you checked if your auto insurance covers glass? You may only have to pay your deductible if you are covered. FYI, I went to Safelite for mine. There are several in the Bay Area.

As for the heating element, it really depends on you. I'm sure you could use a Forester windshield without the heating element and save some money. Do you drive up to Tahoe in the winter? I've wished on several occasions that my Forester had those heating elements. When the temp drops below 20, your regular wiper blades become pretty useless.

Ken

jei

Jack,

I had my windshield replaced through my insurance company at an independent glass shop my agent recommended. I think they bought the windshield through a dealer though. I live in upstate New York, and find the heater elements very useful for de-icing the wiper blades and keeping them flexible in winter. That and the heated side mirrors are key reasons why I bought the "S" instead of the "L". As Ken said, if you drive in winter conditions the heater is useful, if not, you could forgo it and save money. Hope you have glass coverage. Good luck!

John

pattim3

Good Morning! Can you please call us at 1-800-SUBARU3? We can start a case file and see to it that your concerns are addressed. Please have your Vehicle Identification Number and the name of the dealer you are working with.

Thanks!

Patti

ateixeira

Ellen: the burning smell may be the undercoating burning off, or salt and road grime on the undercarriage. See if you can get the undercarriage washed. I use a pressure washer, but even a hose would help. It's easier if you're on ramps.

Try to use a windshielf washer fluid with a lower freezing temperature. This works for me.

My keyless works best from behind the car. See if a certain position works best for you.

I'd let the dealer work out the rest. See if you can get a loaner car, and tell them to take their time and try to resolve everything. Seems to me like all of these are fixable.

robert: the moonroof has a few points where it stops, probably because that's were it makes the least amount of wind noise/buffeting.

Jack: if your insurance cover the windshield, get a dealer to install an OE replacement. It's usually covered under Comprehensive, though you'll pay a deductable.

If not, I'd let it be. My wife had a chip on her Mazda, and when they tried to patch it, a huge crack appeared, and they had to replace the whole thing. She now has yet another chip, and we've left it alone. It has not spread (knock on wood). I've also asked her not to follow trucks so closely - since their debris is what causes the cracks.

Coleen: the AWD system is sealed and maintenance free. I suggest you check with your local Subaru and Honda dealers to find pricing for the 30k and 60k service. I bet that it's similar.

gof4: the new brake pads have more metallic content. Surface rust is normal if the car has been sitting, so a little squeek with the first application of the brakes is OK. If the squeek persists, you have a problem and I'd have it checked out.

Karin: yes, homepage.com shut their doors and my web site went with it, but I moved my photos to PhotoPoint. The catch is, now they are no longer a free service, either! So I'm going to bit the bullet and pay the $10 annual fee.

Here are oil change photos:

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumIndex?u=1400062&a=12183672&f=0

Sorry for the long post!

-juice

kameele

Hope this is the proper place to ask this question. I'm becoming a dedicated reader in all these forums (if not a dedicated poster) and I recall a series of posts talking about the necessity of the tires on the AWDs needing to be in a very tight tolerance. Over the past weekend I made a connection in my mind between that and my seemingly low MPG since I aquired my new '95 Legacy. There are different brands on front and rear, both same size, but the fronts are somewhat newer than the rear. Since I've not done better than 24MPG in straight highway driving, I'm wondering if there may be some extra load on the engine and AWD system that is causing this.

Thanks for any input.

Kevin

ateixeira

How worn is the tread? If one set is very old and the other brand new, it could cause the axles to spin at different speeds. That could damage the AWD system.

Also, there may be small differences from manufacturer to manufacturer.

Try measuring the diameter of each tire. Make sure the tire pressure is consistent all around, and measure from bottom to top. They should not vary more than 1/2", maybe even less than that.

-juice

henne

I know where it is suppose to stop and at every stopping point the roof stops and the motor stops except when it tucks inside the roof, the moonroof stops but the motor keeps running. is is supposed to do that? the motor stops on every other position but not tucked in.

is this normal, i would think the motor is supposed to stop when the moon roof gets tucked inside the roof.

robert

ateixeira

I wish I had that huge roof so I could tell you!

Mine is an aftermarket manual pop-up type. I'll trade you, though! ;-)

-juice

ebahe

Thanks Wmiller4, ateixeira for the inputs.

Pattim3, I assume you are with Subaru America. Thanks for taking notice. I'll gather all the information you asked for and give you a call. Should I ask for you?

I have another question about oil change. How important is it to have the dealer to do the oil change. Our dealer is 25 miles away and because of that we just take our Subie to Valvoline Instant oil change. I read somewhere on this board about some kind of special oil filter. Does Valvoline know that? Thanks again.

ateixeira

I like to use the Subaru OE filter because it comes with a crush washer for the drain plug, and really doesn't cost any more. But any quality filter should do. Just ask that they use a crush washer on the drain plug.

-juice

locke2c

I'd make sure that a "quality filter" has an anti-drainback valve. The Purolator off-the-shelf filter appears to be 100% identical to the Subaru OE part (which of course does say Purolator on it).

-Colin

ateixeira

OK, stoopid follow-up question. Can you tell just by looking into the filter whether it does or not?

-juice

anibalb

Juice,

Yes. If you look inside the filter you will see a sort of spring valve in the bottom center of the oil filter. I believe most of the filters now come with this, unless you are really buying cheap brands. I would imagine that Fram oil filters now have it as well. Juice did you hear the idea someone pposted, about poking a hole in the filter and allowing it to drain before removing the filter? I like that idea. I will try it next time.

As for the crush washer. I think if you get a nylon washer you will be fine too. Before crush washers I never had a leak. And I paid 1.50 for that washer.

Any news on Darlene????

ateixeira

Yeah, I read that. Sounds like an interesting idea. I'm not sure how "controlled" that spill would be, but I guess it's better than the alternative.

-juice

locke2c

FYI, Fram actually is one of those really cheap brands that should be avoided. ;-)

-Colin

armac13

I totally agree about Fram. Avoid!

Ross

jackleung

I check my insurrance document and it's covered. But I think I will leave it as it is (I just want to patch it tomorrow but luckily I read Juice's reply) until it get more dent or it's start to crack. Thank you for all U guys information.

Rgds,
Jack

pattim3

Hi again. Yes, I do work for Subaru and I post here with their blessing.

You can feel free to ask for me, but I can be hard to reach. If you speak to one of our C. S. Reps., they should be able to help you quickly. You can tell them that I directed you from Edmunds so that I can keep an eye on things and they'll keep me informed.

You may just want to pick up a case of Subaru oil filters and supply your oil change place with the filter you want. It can save you a bunch of hassle down the road if you run problem with the filter since we back that one up.

Thanks,

Patti