Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

locke2c

Clutches stink, but it isn't sulfur (rotten eggs). The sulfur smell is in fact sulfur, and it is nearly always caused by excessive sulfur in the gasoline getting burned in the catalysts.

I'm sorry, but I can't think of anything to compare a burning clutch smell to. I know it when I smell it though.

-Colin

ateixeira

Definitely a burning smell. We were driving by all the factories along the Turnpike and thought it was the ambient air!

-juice

hciaffa

As metioned,I was being charged around $5 for the filter and .99cents for the crush washer when I was purchasing them from my dealer. I have been using the Fumoto oil drain valve the last several years. Much easier and neater job in changing oil and its so great. I have one for all my vehicles. I have a friend that uses nylon washers that he matched up at Pep Boys, 5 in a package for $1.29. Actually one of these last for 2 or 3 changes before he replaces it.

hciaffa

After two changes from my dealer where they put in 5 qt of oil resulting in the oil being way over the dipstick makings, asked dealer why, and they said easier to put in 5 qt rather than 4.2 and charge for the 5 qt (pump type dispenser). Since then I do my own and after my first change I put in the recommended amount and let it sit over night, next morning I took the dip stick out and measured and I scribe the level on it, since then its been very close to the makings. Our Forester may get the worst gas mileage of any on the road but at least its not burning oil. Some other owners here in central CT are burning about 1 to 1 1/2 qt every 3000 miles.

mikezak

I know that some vehicles show the date the car was manufactured.

I am just curious,...is there a label or stamp on the OB that shows the date of manufacture, or do I need to contact My.Subaru with the VIN # from my vehicle?

subaru_team

Check on the inside of the driver side door panel. You'll see a metal plate with the production date on it.

Patti

subaru_team

Right now, only '95 forward can put their vehicle information in My.Subaru.com. They hope to bring it back to '90 in the near future, but that will be it.

If you want to have someone read your history, call us (me) at 1-800-SUBARU3 and we can review it with you. In case anyone else wants to know, we can do this for current owner information, but not for vehicles that are used or not owned by the individual checking.

Thanks.
Patti

kens

Tom -- Are you slipping the clutch more when you're driving in snow? I've found that in very low traction situations, you have to slip the clutch to get moving.

Hugo -- Thanks for the info. Does your friend know what size/brand the washers were?

Ken

originalbitman

You can also order the crush washers and Subaru filters from Subaruparts.com.

Part # 15208AA060 Oil Filter $4.31
Part # 11126AA000 Gasket $0.31

bit

bat1161

Any idea how long it takes to get an answer from Subaruparts.com? I emailed a request for a quote on the left front fog lamp grill at the beginnig of the week, and still haven't heard from them. I lost the grill somewhere on the streets of SI.
Paisan - if you see it, don't run over it!

Mark

paisan

I'll make sure to look for it

-mike

originalbitman

Yeah, I agree that email requests take forever. But if you have the part number you can get the price online. My orders (placed online with part #) have taken just under a week to arrive at my door.

bit

bat1161

Bit,
Any ideas where would I find the part number? I realize I sent them a "general desription" so that may add to the delay.

Mark

originalbitman

Here's the response I got from Subaruparts.com to an email request for info:

"Thank you very much for using our SubaruParts.com Parts Request Form.
Because of our low prices and our fast convenient service, we have been
receiving well over 200 requests a day. Although we have taken several
steps to improve our website and our service, it is still difficult to
assist each customer in a timely fashion.

We have recently added a service to our site that can give you prices and
availability on any factory Subaru part. You can type in a factory part
number, and get a price quote in a matter of seconds. This search also
gives you the availability of the part, telling you if we have the part in
stock or if it would have to be ordered. Another addition to
SubaruParts.com will be an order tracking system. This will allow you to
track your package from the time you order the part until it reaches your
door. This addition available now.

If you do not have the part number(s) for the item you need, this
information can be obtained through your local Subaru Dealer. By getting
your part number from your local Subaru Dealer, you will also see the great
savings you get with SubaruParts.com."

I really don't like the idea of bugging my dealer just to get the part #. But other than that they have been great to deal with.

bit

locke2c

You can get part numbers from Irvine Subaru -- scoobyparts@hotmail.com . In all likelihood it's only a matter of time before they also are too busy to reply in a prompt fashion.

Good prices too.

-Colin

bat1161

Thanks Bit and Colin. I'll give the local dealer a call and see if he will help.

Mark

torek

Thanks to bigfrank3 for the tip on the air box going together without having the filter properly sealed. Sure enough, mine was! Probably no harm done, did not go very far with it that way.

By the way, I managed to reverse the old/new numbers -- the one inside the airbox was the 070, and the one I got from the dealer was the 07A. I wonder now if I should go back and ask for an 070. :-)

Chris

bigfrank3

Chris, glad I could help. I'll bet there are a few other vehicles out there that aren't sealed right. It is too easy to do it wrong!

I only found it out by looking from the driver's side view and noticing that the 2 halfs of the air box didn't seem parallel, flaring out a bit at the bottom.

Regards,
Frank

seamus3

patti: the suggestion about the gas upgrade has worked. i haven't smelled the "egg" smell lately, i've been using super(?) unleaded.

i am however having trouble locating my catalyst. can anyone tell me where it is located and the general shape.

seamus

kens

This weekend, I finally got off my lazy behind and tried my first oil change on my Forester. Couldn't have been easier. I followed juice's instructions from his now defunct homepage.

I used no ramps and just slid under the Forester and removed the undercover. With the cover off, everything was super easy to find.

The hardest thing was getting the drain plug off. The quick lube place that I had taken it to had overtightened the plug so much that I was literally was causing my Forester to tilt back as I push up as hard as I could on my socket wrench. To add insult to injury, there was no plug washer either. Another reason why you shouldn't take it to those places! Luckily the threads were not stripped.

I also jacked up the driver's side to speed up the oil draining process.

I used the following supplies:
-Purlolator oil filter P/N L14460
-Subaru OE crush washer P/N 11126AA000 ($0.80 each at local dealer)
-Castrol GTX

In the future I may get some ramps to make it a little easier. From the looks of the drain plug location, it seems like most of the oil should drain without any problem even if the vehicle is up on ramps.

One question: How do you get the oil filter off without having oil come cascading down the sides? I've read about someone who pokes a hole in the bottom of the filter and draining it before removing it.

Ken

babaoriley

Much thanks to whoever posted poking a whole in the oil filter before removing. Just finished my 7th oil change on '00 OB and the first time I didn't get oily!

Ken, it works great. Just bash a screwdriver into the bottom, unscrew the filter slightly to relieve internal pressure, and all the oil drains out the hole and DOESN't cascade down the sides!

So far:
22,500 trouble free miles.
23.6 MPG, 60% highway/40% city
(Did receive the oxygen sensor recall, but have not had replaced yet.)

Just got back from a quick day ski trip to Tahoe and as I was driving home doing 85-90 MPH kept thinking to myself, "What a great car!", while my buddy was sleeping soundly.

-Brett

paisan

If you smack the screwdriver into the oil-filter and then can't get the filter off, you won't be able to drive it anywhere to get it professionally fixed... Other than that, it's a good idea.

-mike

ateixeira

It may be a good idea to make sure you can turn it (only slightly) before poking the hole.

-juice

locke2c

Professional, schmo-fessional.

I have been involved with 2 oil filter changes that took several hours and involved cutting away the entire filter body though. ;-)

-Colin

paisan

For he is far more mechanically inclined than some of us!

-mike

babaoriley

I agree with Mike and Juice that it's probably wise to loosen filter first, but I don't think of that stuff in time. I've always been able to get them off eventually. On my old civic, I went to change the filter after I bought it used and it was stuck, couldn't get wrench in there (mounted sideways with about 6 inches clearance to the firewall and the transaxle directly underneath), so I pounded a long screwdriver through middle of the cross section and was able to get enough leverage on it that way. BUT, I was very nervous after the filter was wrecked and the sides were bending before it broke loose. Lots of swearing seems to help.

Again, for anyone still listening, LOOSEN filter first before wrecking.

-Brett

hutch7

OK I confess the screw driver thing was my idea, I've been doing it from day 1 on my '97. But I do always loosen the filter abouy 1/4 turn first! I've also started putting a plastic Walmart bag over the filter after I've drained it to catch any residual oil when I remove it.

kens

I like the idea of the plastic bag. I'll try that next time.

The oil change made me wonder why the undercover on my Forester only has an access hole that leads directly to the drain plug. I wonder why they didn't allow some sort of access to the filter itself. The owners manual says to drain the oil first, then remove the cover to access the filter. Kind of strange...

Ken

kate5000

I've only recently had to use rear wiper on my Forester, and I noticed that it does not swing back all the way. That is, it does not do 180 degrees semi-circle. I think it cleans a sector of ca. 140-145 degrees.

Do you know if it's abnormality, or is it how it's supposed to work? I've seen some older Legacy around, its wiper goes a full semi-circle -- nice!

p0926

Kate- You've had your Forester how long and you're just now trying the rear wiper? Gee, and I always thought of San Francisco as being relatively rainy. As to your question, 145 degrees sounds about right. (I'd run out and check but I'm out of town for the week) Whatever the arc is, it works for me. But then I've never had a wiper that did a full 180 either so maybe I just don't know what I'm missing. :-)

-Frank P.

kate5000

Frank -- ever heard of sunny California :-)? I'm on the other (East) side of the Bay, so it's not as rainy here as in the City. Plus, I take my baby out on weekends and vacations only. It's my old Loyale'92 which gets all the real beating.

Speaking of rear wipers, one in my Loyale also makes about 140 degrees arc, but it turned the opposite way as compared to one in Forester, and somehow it feels to me much better, to have more clean space on a driver's side... maybe it's just my habit, or maybe rear-wiper in Forester was not appropriately changed from the Japanese configuration that is for the right-mounted steering column?

paisan

My XT6 wiper does a full 180 degree sweep. That is the front wiper! Funny thing is that prior to '88 the XTs had a pass->driver sweep, '88->'91 had a driver->pass sweep.

All the ricers keep asking me how I was able to get it to tuck under the hood They have to have their single wiper cars stop dead center! Haaaaaa I just tell em it's factory installed.

-mike

p0926

Kate- I spent a year in Davis so I know all about sunny CA. Of course I also spent a year in Monterey so I've experinced the rainy/foggy CA too.

-Frank P.

hondafriek

I had that chisel the filter off experience on an old 74 nova I once owned, several hours of foul language did not help one bit, I actually had to chisel the bloody thing right out of the engine block I think it had been forced in cross threaded although it did not leak, I discovered this mess shortly after buying it and doing the first oil change on it.
Cheers Pat.

nahcire

Last weekend, I unlock three clips for the air filter box but wasn't able to remove the top, is there anything else there that I should loosen? Must I use the Subaru filter? Is Purlolator's good enough?

Has anyone replace the windshield wiper blades before? Should I replace the whole bracket and blades or just the blades. My experience in the past was that the after market blades don't fit very well in the brackets on my old Acura. I saw at Walmart, the whole bracket and blade only cost about $4 (from Annco??). Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

paisan

I never want to try to fiddle with just the blade. I usually get the whole assembly. There is probably a 4th clip for the air-filter that you are missing, and that is why it isn't opening.

-mike

dannyka

I just ran out and looked at mine. The arc is definitely about 145 degrees or so. The wiper arm is bent to the right to make it parallel to the window edge, so when it swings around to the left, it "loses" about 20 degrees.

-Dan

ateixeira

Kate: I think it's the right way. If you look over your shoulder, you can see more to the passenger side, so it makes sense to clear more of that side.

Eric: I have used refills for my blades. You need the narrow type, which usually has an "N" next to the size. So a 21" blade would read 21N. The standard, wider size will not fit.

To change the air filter, I find it easier to basically disassemble the intake hoses, then lift the top off the filter. Worked for me.

-juice

locke2c

I believe there are only 3 clips. Like Juice said, disconnect the intake assembly-- there should be a flex hose that connects to the torque chamber (big black box on top of the throttle body). After that's free, simply open the filter box by pulling up and left towards the fender. There are 3 pegs on the lower right of the filter box that match 3 holes in the lid, so if you try to remove (or install) it by going straight up (or down) it won't work. Make sure to get those pegs lined up.

-Colin

miksmi

p0926 Apr 23, 2001 8:04pm Monterey? Gosh Frank, so sorry you had to endure such a lousy assignment.

>several hours of foul language did not help one bit

Pat, that's classic! Into my quote file you go!

..Mike

kens

Eric,

You don't need to use Subaru's OE air filter. I'm sure any one made by a reputable company (ie. Purolator) should be fine.

As for the wipers, Subaru sells just the replacement blades also. You probably can pick them up at your local dealer.

Ken

nygreg

Someone we know just had to replace her master cylinder on a 3 year old OB/Legacy. The dealer charged her a handsome sum for this (don't have exact #s). Was there a recall on master cylinders?

Thanks,
-Greg

subaru_team

Your friend should call us with the VIN for their vehicle. We can check for an open recall or see if we can do anything. Please ask them to call us at 1-800-SUBARU3.

Thanks,

Patti

nygreg

Thank you. I will pass on the info.

-Greg

rsholland

I know we've touched on this several times in the past, but I thought it might be interesting to set the record straight in terms of what is the best system to employ, and why.

The auto industry certainly shows little agreement on the matter. Although, I don't know of any car company that currently uses timing gears. I could very easily be wrong on that, however.

So, for the purpose of enlightenment (mine included), I thought we could delve into this topic. Colin, I know you have strong opinions on this.

Here's my take on the subject (right or wrong):

Timing Belts

They are relatively cheap and strong.

They need to be replaced every 60K or so, and it's a fairly costly thing to do.

They may be fairly easy to change, but the average owner will never do it themselve.

Timing Chain

Should last the life of the car, if maintained properly.

Very expensive to replace, if needed.

More convenient for owners because it shouldn't need replacement.

Engines with timing chains are shorter, witness the new Subaru H-6.

Timing Gears

I'm clueless as to the advantages or disadvantages.

Vehicles that use Timing Belts

Hondas

Subaru H-4s

Some Toyotas

Others?

Vehicles that use Timing Chains

A number of Toyotas/Lexus (V6s & V8)

Subaru H-6

Ford OHC V8s, and V6s

Jeep 4.7 V8, and new 3.7 V6

Many (if not all OHC) motorcycles

Others?

Vehicles that use Timing Gears

?

I'm sure the above list is not perfectly correct. It seems to me, that where low maintenance is a priority, timing chains are favored. Beyond that, I don't have much more to offer on the topic.

Bob

paisan

The Isuzu V6 engines use Belts, and the H6 2.7 and H6 3.3l subarus.

-mike

kens

The newer Subaru H4 engines have replacement intervals of 105K miles, if I believe.

I wonder if timing belts are quieter than chains.

ken

nygreg

tied to the fact that they are interference or not (Honda's not withstanding)?

-Greg

kameele

I know I'm late chiming in on punching a hole in the filter, but had to get in my 2 cents. I would guess that any mechanic worth his/her salt would have a roll of 100 mile/hour tape in their tool kit. Perfect for covering the hole that you made before you checked to see if the filter would come off!!

Kevin

dan2001

I was reading the manual of my new 2001 LLBean and it says when putting the spare on after a flat, I am supposed to do something with a fuse to disable AWD. Is this right?
Any thoughts?
Dan