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Comments
Maybe you should tie a couple tin cans to the undercarriage of the service manager's car and see whether he finds it acceptable...... :mad:
If you'd been running the Avid's we'd be asking for the address to send you get well soon cards.
Larry
Fix one problem (piston slap on the wife's OBW), something new crops up in the next heartbeat! :sick:
Oh well, the OBW didn't sound this good when it was new. Even when I start it in the single digits, its quiet as can be.
Larry
My Avid TRZ's did well for me in this last snow storm, ~20 inches in my area. I think that they did equally as well as the set of Nokian WR tires that were on my 98 OBW prior to this winter.
Are you talking about a different version of the Avid? Also, my car doesn't put nearly the same power to the wheels as yours can, maybe there is some of the difference.
Alan
98 OBW Ltd
Yup, my Avids are the H4S series. I don't know how different the tread patterns are between the two.
Agreed, my FXT is a little torque monster, but I really was driving with a very light foot.
One difference in the cornering is the heavier rear sway bar I put on, it does tend to make the rear end "snap" a little quicker in a turn. Not a problem with the Winterforce tires, but definitely with the Avids. BTW - disclaimer - I knew that the heavier bar would have that effect, which is why I considered an investment in good snow tires mandatory. My problems with the Avids extended to straight line stops as well, so the sway bar was off the hook for that.
Larry
http://techinfo.subaru.com/html/ixSearchKwAll.jsp?publication_type=10&model_year- =2002&vehicle_line=Forester
Steve
In recent years most of the car makers have become very particular about fluids, particularly coolant & ATF. For that reason, I have been dumping my older stock of Prestone, and recently got the coolant changed on both my OBW and Honda Ody at their respective dealers. Prestone's latest formula claims to be 100% compatible with all makers requirements for corrosion/oxidation/electrochemical reactions between block/head metals, and gasket materials. My feeling is hit Walmart in the morning, and get the latest formula. Plus, the minimal amount you will be adding to the bottle (a pint, maybe) is trivial compared to the total volume of the system.
Of course, the real question is where did it go? With the DOHC engine, it is usually an internal HG leak, so watch that temp gauge carefully for signs of trouble.
Steve
Can one hear or feel when the gasket goes I thought I heard an umfamiliar sound come from the engine yesterday which I mentioned to my friend at the time.
Len
You didn't notice any seat-of-the-pants difference with only 6.5psi of boost instead of 13?
~Colin
Steve
- Exhaust gasket from rear car to mid-pipe deteriorating.
- Inner fron drive axle boots dry & cracking
However axle boots, whether CV or inner shaft, need to be addressed immediately. You don't want them to crack enough to let in dust and grime, or the joints they are protecting will seize.
~Colin
Wondering if anyone has experienced OEM radio problems seemingly related to cold weather. Purchased a Forester X automatic this summer and had no problems until the first week of cold weather in November. Then--just once--I started my car in below freezing weather, reached to turn on the radio, and ... nothing. Didn't turn on, didn't flash display. Turned off the car, back on, and all was fine.
Nothing else for the entire extremely mild winter until after last week's cold snap (didn't get above 30 for 5 days). This morning, at 21 degrees according to dashboard, started the car. Drove about 30 yards before hitting the radio power button. The radio flashed, spit out a CD, and reset all the radio stations. (Since I've recently moved to a new city, this was the most distressing aspect.) But I re-tuned to one of the few stations I could remember and the radio has been fine since.
Any ideas? I'm still under warranty so am most concerned with this being symptomatic of other issues. Won't take the time to fix this if you all (much more knowledgable folks) think it's minor. Think it's something my dealer should be able to take care of pretty rapidly?
Thanks for all your help--whether you knew it or not, this board helped me make my mind up to get my Forester last year, and I haven't regretted it for an instant!
--Winter
Time for a new radio!
Steve
-Brian
Well, I would say that the modules are programmable assuming that you are referring to the alarm 'brain' itself and not a relay or switch. It seems possible that the tech doesn't know how to program the alarm.
~Colin
After accelerating onto the Freeway, I did.
Thanks for the info. I will look to tighten it up next week (Vegas is calling for this week! Car should be fine though).
Thanks Denurse
Wonder if it's related - feel free to pass it on to the techies.
Cheers!
Paul
It's a fluid-filled piston that puts tension on the timing belt. Subaru's implementation seems to be a bit less than reliable, whereas most other manufacturers use a simple spring-- not an uncommon failure at all.
Go ahead and have your timing belt replaced at the same time; they'll have it off and it's scheduled for replacement at either 90,000 or 105,000 miles.
~Colin
It could be a temperature sensor. Several of them can cause cold-starting problems if failing / failed. I'd check the coolant temp sensor first.
~Colin
Really? Hmm. I guess I should keep it in the back of my mind as a possible replacement the next time I am in there. I feel like that is one of the parts that is the MOST reliable on mine! 201K and I have had that part out 5 times... no problems with it yet.... :surprise:
Co-worker had her 01 leaking headgaskets replaced a couple of weeks ago. Since then the car shakes at idle, regardless of what gear (P/N/D). Idle is fine. Dealer claimed plugged fuel injector. Of course, there was no problem before the headgasket fix. Any ideas?
Like I said before, other vendors get by with a simple spring, but Subaru had to be different! I thought that was Honda's job, to have technology just for technology's sake.
201K, wow. :surprise:
~Colin
I'm supposed to pick up my brand new Forester XT Limited in about 5-7 days and I'm worried that it will be a lemon and Subaru won't stand behind it!
I'm wondering why they wouldn't fix the transmission - isn't that supposed to be a covered item??? I'm curious what year this WRX is and what they told you at the dealership as to why it wasn't going to be covered. Was it written in the warranty papers that transmissions aren't covered? And, then I don't understand why they took it apart and wouldn't put it back together again. If you needed a new transmission, I don't understand why you put the original one back together after the dealership had taken it apart.
Also wondering what state you are in.
I was a little perplexed at first about how to resolve the problem. So, I ended up pulling the bottle jack out of my van, inserting the device between the jack and the hitch mount on my '69 C20, then jacking the bottle jack up about 6". The truck has a lot of travel in the suspension, so it had not even come close to lifting all the weight of the rear axle, but it was enough that after a minute or two the piston had fully compressed and I was able to insert a pin to retain it. *whew* :P
201K is not bad. I have 246K on my '96. The only problems I have had is a bad water pump and replacing the timing belt idler pulleys.
I could live with that..... but hey, at least I am gaining quite a bit of experience maintaining/repairing mine! :sick:
Be not afraid!! For most of us, the experience with Subaru has been on par or better than with most of the other car companies. In fact, when Patti was with us, I would say that we saw some truly outstanding things happen, beyond what one would ever expect. Anyone who has ever purchased a new car can probably tell a story or two, good or bad. After 9 new cars from 6 companies, I would list Toyota at the bottom of my list. They left me holding the bag on a tranny problem as well.
Remember that the devil is always in the details. Ronny might have a legit claim, yet he has told us virtually nothing about the circumstances. From his post and profile we see that this is his second (?) repair to second gear, and SoA will not do it for free this time. Why? Unknown.... Maybe they know or believe it to be abuse, like racing? Who knows, as he has not seen fit to share this with us. Again, he might be right, but we just don't know.
Always take what you read on this boards in the context of the situation, and the mood of the writer.
Steve
As a last resort, Tire Rack and other dealers sell very nice, relatively inexpensive alloy wheels. In a year or so when you need new tires, order a wheel and tire package from them. They come mounted, balanced, with valves - ready to go. Compared with the cost of the same tire purchased locally and mounted on your old rims, you might just find that the cost of the new rim has been brought down to pocket change. That was my experience when I bought snow tires a few years ago. And nothing dresses up your car more than a set of new narrow spoke alloy wheels!
Steve