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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Did you try manually putting it in 1 or even 2? What happens then?

  • I started to post a couple weeks back that your tire pressures weren't abnormal enought to cause (or solve) the problem, but you had posted that the problem went away... not surprised that you bring it up again.

    I had a scraping/grinding noise on my Trooper that was due to front wheel bearings...this only happened while braking on a turn, it was more pronounced at low speeds.

    Frankly, I would check tire circumferences first, I think you might have one or more tires out of specs. Get your psi at the right amount, then jack up the wheels one at a time and check no load circumference. The tires need to be within 1/4" circumference of each other.

  • when you have the front tire up in the air checking circumference, give it a sideways shove to see if the bearing is out. Do this for all 4 wheels. There should be very little detectable play.

  • Paul (ppek): Thanks for the information on TSB. That was very helpful.

    Frank (p0926): Thanks for your input on the 2001 Forester that you own. I am glad to hear that you are happy with your vehicle. Did you have to replace the Engine Control Module (ECM) on your vehicle as part of the recall (for the 2001 Forester)? If so, did the new ECM make a big difference? Thanks.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    If your OE clutch worked well for the full 60k miles, then I would not reasonably expect a dealer to swap it out for free after that point.

    Heck, I've owned two cars where the clutches slipped and needed replacement at that age. It's a wear-and-tear item, and IMO anything beyond 60k has more to do with age and use.

  • rangnerrangner Posts: 336
    hey all,

    I'm trying to find the heater hose that goes from the firewall to the water pump. I have a MY00 2.5 liter OBW

    There's two heater hoses one goes to the front top of the engine and the other goes to the back top of the engine.

    I'm trying to use the prestone flush and fill kit to backflush my cooling system. Any experience with this?


  • I have a 2004 WRX with 2100 miles on it and I checked the oil level for the first time today after lunch and had a couple of questions;

    The car was on level ground. Let engine sit in off position for at least 5 minutes and when I checked the oil there was nothing on the dipstick.

    I figured I would check the oil and bam nothing. I almost fainted!! I haven't noticed any difference in the way the car drives, it doesn't blow smoke through the exhaust and there is no oil puddles where I park and the oil light has not come on.

    Checked again and there is a tiny bit on the bottom of the stick before the curve in the dipstick. Also I noticed there was some along the side of the stick but not fully across the level. I called the dealership and they say to bring it in and I'm going to but not till Thursday because that's the earliest I can. Anyway I know it's small engine will burn a little oil but like this???? Please tell me the reasoning behind this oil level.
  • p0926p0926 Posts: 4,423
    Doug- Actually, small Japanese-built engines frequently don't burn any oil. As to your oil reading, I can only guess that you're not getting an accurate measurement for some reason. Let us know what the dealer says.

    -Frank P.
  • Don't despair. Checking the oil on the flat 4 can be frustrating. I've been there. Everything from level ground to how long the engine has sat after running to how you wipe and recheck effects your reading. Try it again after the car has set for at least ten minutes or more. Pull the stick and wipe it clean. Then reinsert the stick and pull and check. If it is still down add a half quart. It will take a few minutes for the oil you add to drain into the pan. Then check again. It is easy to overfill so be patient.

    Better yet you might want to drain, change filter and refill with 4.25 quarts (or whatever your manual says). This way you will have at least a base point to start with. That is what your dealer would have to do in order to get an accurate profile.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Check the bottom of the block for leaks at the gaskets, just to be safe. Also check the front main seal, AKA the O-ring around the oil pump, and the rear main seal.

    I'd still top it off, though. Better yet just change it now, even if it's early.

  • THis happened with my 2003 Forester. Took it to the dealer and they started and oil consumption test. They filled it up with oil and then started a chart. I took it back after I drove 500 miles so they could check the oil and there was nothing on the dipstick. THis was Monday and on the previous Friday it had been at "L" when I checked it at home. It is now at the dealers and they are going to look at heads and gaskets. I would at least call the dealer and take it in so it can be on record if there is a problem. I have been told that it is within 'normal' limits for a FOrester to use up to 1 quart of oil per 1,000 miles. Any more than that and they say there is a problem.

    Good luck
  • for the replies to my message. I checked the the oil pump and gaskets and there is no sign of a leak at all. I put a quarter of a quart of oil in last night and it is now measuring on L. I will check it again after lunch today. Also I plan on taking it to the dealer tomorrow morning and see what they say about this oil consumption.

    I am still really worried about it though. I really like Subaru and I hope this doesn't turn into a big fiasco. Any other possibilites that anyone can think of?

    Kim a quart of oil every 3000 miles seem really excessive if you ask me. I don't think that is normal consumption for that engine or any engine for that matter. Let me know what they end up doing for you though I am interested to know.
  • I meant every 1000 miles for you car Kim!!
  • lfdallfdal Posts: 679
    IMO a quart every 3K on a new or broken-in engine sounds like a cop out. Unless you're doing a lot of hard driving, it shouldn't use that much unless its a sloppy design.

    I know Subaru says its okay to use that much, for that matter so does Ford on their V6's. None of my Sables every used any oil. I usually traded before the 50K mark so that's where my oil tracking ended on them.

    My wifes OBW with 10k has yet to use any oil. It was changed at the 1k, 2k (switched to synthtetic), 5k and 8k. Measured what I took out (OCD sufferer :<) ) and barring filter element retention which isn't much esp with synth, got back about 95% of what I put in.

  • p0926p0926 Posts: 4,423
    It seems every manufacturer has a "fudge clause" when it comes to oil consumption and I think the 1 qt per 1,000 miles is standard. And yes, in my opinion it absolutely is a cop-out. I know I'd go ballistic if my Subaru was going thru a qt every 1k. Not that it's any consolation but it's been my experience that small block Japanese engines seldom burn oil while big block domestics have been more prone to (at least in the past). Of course even the best manufacturers have a lemon sneak off the assmbly line from time to time.

    However, the first order of business is to determine if your vehicle really is burning oil and if so, how much/fast. If it turns out that you really are burning that much oil, I would expect the dealer/SOA to identify and fix the problem (regardless of the fudge clause).

    -Frank P.
  • bkaiser1bkaiser1 Posts: 464
    On my previous Outback as well as my 04 WRX, I've found the dipstick to be nearly useless as a gauge of oil level. How anyone uses this dipstick to determine "half a quart low" or "slightly overfilled" is beyond me.

    After changing my oil last night on the WRX, I checked the dipstick and, surprise, none registered on the stick. None. I know it was in there because I put it there 10 minutes earlier, but the dipstick showed none.

    At the other end of the spectrum, my Outback would continually appear to be overfilled...most of the times I checked the dipstick the oil appeared to be WAY past the "full" mark. The WRX will appear overfilled, too, when I check it at gas stations (ie, motor off for a minute or so). Certainly not the most helpful gauge in the car...

  • Does the engine consume more oil during break-in and gradually tail off? I'm thinking because of the break-in it's consuming more oil than normal and will start to level out after the first oil change.

    Brian - what you said makes me feel a little better about you changing the oil and still not measuring anything on the stick. I'm still going to the dealer to get this on record though.
  • jlemolejlemole Posts: 345
    The dipstick also measures differently on either side. You've got to make sure you're on level ground, let the car sit for at least 5-10 minutes. After the first wipe, make sure you get the stick back in facing the right way, and all the way down, then measure from the side with the "L" and "F" on it. And, to complicate matters, you may need to take a few reads.

    I've had the same experience as Brian right after an oil change, but usually after the second or third wipe, I seem to get a true reading. It's maddening.

  • rangnerrangner Posts: 336
  • dave226dave226 Posts: 22
    Eric- I've drained all coolant via the rad drain with the heater setting set on high. I then refilled with distilled water, warmed up engine and redrained again. I then refilled with coolant. This seems to get most of the crud out without splicing into the heater hose.

    I also want to install a block heater onto my 2.5L. The frost plug needs a 13mm allan key for removal but I'm having a hard time finding one. Anyone know of a supplier of such a tool that goes onto a socket wrench for added torque??
  • c_hunterc_hunter Posts: 4,487
    Check out a "real" auto parts store -- this is a fairly typical tool that they probably carry.

  • hondafriekhondafriek Ottawa CanadaPosts: 2,976
    I fitted a block heater in My GT wagon and all I had to use was the plain end of a half inch socket extension.

      Cheers Pat.
  • The dealer called me last night and said they found the problem. They said the PCV valve was stuck open and drawing oil into the intake (Bear with me I am a nurse and a computer tech, not a mechanic :-). THey said this should also solve the rough idle and hesitation I was experiencing. I pick the car up tonight and will post later how it is running.

    The dealer still wants to do 500 mile oil checks for the next 2000-3000 miles just to make sure I am not losing oil.

    ANd about the "normal" oil usage, I think that is a cop out as well, but Subaru won't authorize any warranty work if it is using any less than the 1 quart per 1,000 miles.
  • rangnerrangner Posts: 336
    thanks for the feedback

  • After going to the dealer today they topped off the engine and didn't find any leaks or any other possible causes of my oil consumption. They claim they checked the PCV valve and the gaskets and no signs of a problem.

    They basically told me to keep an eye on it until my oil change at 3750 miles. Also if any oil needs to be added they told me to take it to them.

    I checked it after about 80 miles of driving today after the dealer visit and it is reading perfect now.

    Thanks for the information you guys and gals provided and I will keep y'all posted.

    Kim, hopefully that's all it was for your vehicle. Keep us up to date and let us know if anything happens.
  • stoner420stoner420 Posts: 165
    If it means anything (and it probably doesn't, but I'll share anyhow) I got scared that my tranny fluid was totally gone at one point a while back, but turned out I was just not getting a good reading (it was actually halfway between L and F). My '02 WRX so far burns no oil at all that I can tell (24000 miles today!)
  • jburjbur Posts: 4
    I have a 2003 Forester. Does anyone know what brand of antifreeze is installed from the factory? I need to add a small amount to the reservoir and would like to use the same type that is currently installed.
  • joelbjoelb Posts: 16
    Well, I think I have finally gotten to the bottom of my wheel grinding problem. Based on your feedback here, I had my CV joints and brakes checked out. The mechanic found the CV Joints were OK, but the front driver side brakes had a faulty piston. This was causing the brake pad to be unevenly applied. There was a difference of more than a 1/4" wear from one end of the pad to the other.

    After driving for over an hour and then making slow tight turns I had no grinding noise. Yahoo!

    Thanks for everyone's feedback here!
  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    standard ethylene glycol coolant. the green stuff.

    mix 50/50 with distilled water and add.

  • Picked the car up last night and it feels like a new car. They replaced the PCV valve and also found the #3 spark plug was firing incorrectly so they changed that as well.

    When they drove my car up to me, it even sounded differently. The engine has a higher pitch to it. The hesitation is completely gone. I stepped on the gas, expecting it to hesitate and it took off like never before.

    The rocking/rough idle is gone now too. All I feel is the vibration of the boxer engine.

    The dealer did ask me to keep an eye on the oil and possibly come back every 500 miles for the next 2000-3000 if I notice any decrease.

    So bottom line...I liked the car when I bought it but I love, love love it now!

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