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Comments
Some facts are: The problem first appeared after an accident in which I was broadsided on the driver-side front door. Also, I used to be able to make the problem go away by shutting off the ignition and re-starting the vehicle. That does not seem to work any more. Also, this problem is always preceded by the A/T Temperature light blinking on the dashboard. The dealer does not seem to be able to diagnose the problem. I took the vehicle to an independant transmission shop and they confirm that there is nothing mechanically wrong with the transmission. They feel that it is a 'computer problem".
Anybody have any ideas???
HTH,
Jim
Yes, I've been there...
Disconnect the battery for a few hours to reset the computer???
Jim
I wonder if there is a vacuum-controlled sensor that is malfunctioning. Vacuum does control the shift points on these cars, does it not?
- has the fuel filter been replaced recently? Subaru has literally the best location / easiest service I have ever seen. it is in the engine bay and easily replaced.
- when was the last time the fuel pump was replaced? if it is original, or even just >100k miles (208k!) it could be the culprit
and of course, spark. good luck!
~Colin
Yup - I am the stuckie in this situation.
I was experiencing shift shock sometimes, but only between 2nd and 3rd. I did a fluid change (the car had 90K, I'd purchased it at 84K and don't think it'd ever been done). I changed the filter, but since have found out the filter needs no scheduled maintenance; it's a spin on/canister filter. From Subaru it's something like $45. A match can be found at Carquest for about $9. Subaru No is 38325AA032, Carquest Number is 85365. Service writer told me that I didn't have to change it at all. It's designed to last the life of the car. There is no replacement filter for the one in the pan. If you feel like getting into it, use RTV sealant for the pan, and wash the screen out with an appropriate solvent.
Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery 30 minutes later will cause the computers to lose their programming, and they will build new tables during the first approximately 300 miles driven afterwards. This might work. I know it works for the ECU, but I'm kind of skeptical about the trans. I'd hazard a guess that the target shift points are fixed. Might be a problem with the 2-4 brake, which is common in shifts from 2-3, 3-4 & 4-3. Fluid change is where'd I'd start. Maybe the TCU has a problem.
David
Best of luck to you!
David
the problem still happens on '03s, it just remains to be seen whether they've actually improved the design or most '03s don't have enough miles yet to start really seeing the problem.
~Colin
Steve
Maybe i posted in the wrong place, but i'm sure someone knows about replacing the window gusset on my 97 obs. I found instructions for taking the door apart in the logged threads. The download had no name attached; I'm thinking Colin, maybe he moved on. If anyone out there knows, i'm wondering if i have to replace more than the gusset now that the window is so whack. The motor seems fine, but when the window goes up, it veers out of alignment and tends to fall back down; i have to pull on it as i close the door to keep it in place.
These windows are such a common problem, it must get boring, but i can't put off fixing mine much longer. Thank you for any insight, grace
Thanks for the advice. That's the one thing (besides replacing the computer) that i haven't tried yet. I'll give it a try this weekend. Thanks
Thanks for your expertise. We did have the trans fluid changed about 6 months ago but the problem did not go away. Forgive my ignorance, but when you say TCU are you referring to the computer? Is there a computer that controls the vehicle shifting? Can you explain a little further what you mean by the 2-4 brake? Thanks for taking the time to help.
~Colin
I hope this helps.
Len
Good luck, and hopefully it's a simple computer problem.
David
-juice
1- Does the front diff. have fluid that can be changed independent of the tranny fluid?
2- Is it transmission fluid or something else.
3- Does the front diff. fluid if different ever have to changed. And can it be checked.
4- Is there a gasket or seal between the tranny and front diff. that can leak or is it together in a sealed unit?
Ask ten dealers get ten totally different answers
Hope someone really knows?
2. ATF for an auto, 75w90 gear oil for manual. The latter stinks to the high heavens so wear gloves when you work around it.
3. Yes. I did mine (MT5) at 60k miles. It wasn't too dirty, so that interval should be OK.
4. No idea. The drain plug on the manual is on the bottom. 17mm IIRC. Fill via the dip stick, it's yellow to help you find it. I ran a tube down and connected the other end to a funnel, fed it in that way. You fill it until it begins to spill out. It's a bit of a messy job.
Most of these comments apply to my manual transmission model, remember. I think it took a little less than 4 quarts total. The rear diff takes about 1 quart of 75w90 gear oil as well.
-juice
2. 75W90 gear oil (GL-5?)
3. Changed at 30k miles, dipstick on passenger side. (Roughly the opposite side to the auto tranny dipstick on the driver side.)
4. Can't help with this one.
Jim
~Colin
Anyway, heads up -- it looks like we may be back to hearing about bearing issues. Some people have already had multiple bearing replaced....
Craig
Pat Goss did a whole segment about the new self-contained bearings that are used nowadays. Not specific to Subaru, just noting the trend. They cost more to replace, so hopefully that'll teach Subaru to get them right.
-juice
Linda
Thanks for the reminder though - I need to do some fluid changes here before winter strikes.
The problem is I don't drive the OB much - 4500 miles in the last 12 months -- 2500 of those miles were 50 mile round trips to the local ski hill on a well maintained road. The last 5 miles are usually snow packed but it's only occasionally icy or covered with any significant snow depth.
Since I'm not driving it much, and just around town in the summer, I'm not sure it's worth it to pay a lot of money for some high tread wear tires. If the minivan dies, I suppose the OB could become the commuter and highway rig, but I really don't think the OB will become our main car anytime soon.
Suggestions?
Steve, Host
Ken
Steve, Host
Then the car started running hot. She never let it get out of the red, but it did get into the red a couple of times. The mechanic flushed the radiator and said he had to do it 3 times before a big clog broke loose and a bunch of junk came out. Also said the coil pack was bad, so he replaced that, the plugs, and the wires. He said the head gasket tested good. Another $900. This was a week ago.
Today she got about an hour into a 5 hour trip and the engine went into the red again. She had been on the interstate and it happened when she slowed for construction. The mechanic at the side of the road said it is probably the head gasket, and he won't touch it.
Two questions: is this the likely diagnosis? If so, does the engine have to come out to replace the head gasket? I am several hours away but am going up there next weekend and could do the work myself.
Any advice/insight is appreciated.
Coil pack only costs $80, but that's already done. Wires, the coil pack, and spark plugs were overdue if they had not been done already. My Miata needs new wires every 30k miles!
Call 800-SUBARU3 to see if her car falls within the VINs that are covered under the 8/100 gasket warranty, the catch is the previous owner had to have a coolant conditioner added. That plus if you flushed the radiator that would have removed the additive, and may be why the gasket failed now.
Still doesn't hurt to call them and ask if they can help in some way.
-juice
Sorry to hear about her ongoing problems. Sounds like she was the victim of an unscrupulous seller. :mad:
Ken
There should have been a sticker on the radiator about the coolant additive. :mad:
-juice
NEVER AGAIN will I do it between the fenders. It makes the job much more difficult. It's totally worth the time it takes to unbolt the transmission and disconnect the harness.
You do want new intake manifold gaskets but the valve cover gaskets should be just fine, they have minimal torque and it's a little reusable rubber seal.
~Colin
Thanks for setting me straight, Colin!
Len
He's going to check if there are any bulletins out there on it, but he figures they'll just replace the power steering pump sometime next week. I doubt it's an in stock item.
-Brian
Honestly, I have used regular oil and synthetic off and on for a couple years (in different cars), and for a car like the Outback, I think either is fine. As long as you get oil changes regularly, the engine should last a long time. When Subaru starts recommending synthetic for the engine, then consider it more important. Until then, I'd consider it an unneccesary and expensive optional exercise. We see plenty of high mileage Subarus around that have run on nothing but regular oil.
In cold weather, you may get an additional benefit if easier starting out of synthetic, so perhaps someone from a colder region can weigh in. I know friends in Minnesota, and they all need engine block heaters regardless of the oil they are using. So the synthetic can only help so much.
-juice
Steve, Host