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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • mtyler1mtyler1 Member Posts: 4
    I am getting desparate to find an answer to a problem I am experiencing with my 1999 Subaru Legacy wagon. For the last 2 years I have experienced an intermittent problem (getting much worse lately). Very often the car will upshift very roughly from 2nd to 3rd, and 3rd to 4th gears. By 'rough' I mean it will go to 3000 or 4000 rpms before it 'slams' into the next gear. Also, when cruising on the highway in 4th gear at 60 mph the car will suddenly downshift to 3rd gear (almost sending me thru the windshield)!
    Some facts are: The problem first appeared after an accident in which I was broadsided on the driver-side front door. Also, I used to be able to make the problem go away by shutting off the ignition and re-starting the vehicle. That does not seem to work any more. Also, this problem is always preceded by the A/T Temperature light blinking on the dashboard. The dealer does not seem to be able to diagnose the problem. I took the vehicle to an independant transmission shop and they confirm that there is nothing mechanically wrong with the transmission. They feel that it is a 'computer problem".
    Anybody have any ideas???
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Check the seat of the radiator where the rubber part of the radiator cap sits. If it's not smooth, it draws air instead of coolant. This is also means there is no overpressure so the boiling coolant flows into the overflow tank. Lastly, it means you need a new radiator. :cry:

    HTH,

    Jim

    Yes, I've been there...
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    Grasping at straws here...

    Disconnect the battery for a few hours to reset the computer???

    Jim
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Good point, Jim. The heads can be milled true if they are only slightly warped, but they have a fairly low tolerance. The key is to make sure they are true (flat) before reinstalling! If you have a shop perform the work, there should be a warranty period on the work so make sure you put it through the gauntlet during that time frame.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Yeah, that is a tough one. I second the "computer problem" suggestion. Anyone know what systems interact with the transmission? Unfortunately, the "A/T Temp" light will come on for multiple reasons, not just lubricant temperature, but perhaps have the transmission flushed and a new filter. It is really tough to ferret out those electrical gremlins when the diagnostic readers do not offer any leads. :sick:

    I wonder if there is a vacuum-controlled sensor that is malfunctioning. Vacuum does control the shift points on these cars, does it not?
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    bucking is often either fuel delivery or spark. someone else covered the spark part, but I'd check the fuel delivery as well:

    - has the fuel filter been replaced recently? Subaru has literally the best location / easiest service I have ever seen. it is in the engine bay and easily replaced.

    - when was the last time the fuel pump was replaced? if it is original, or even just >100k miles (208k!) it could be the culprit

    and of course, spark. good luck!
    ~Colin
  • starrmanstarrman Member Posts: 8
    Thank you all for your support. When I called the Subaru dealer yesterday and explained the information that I had as a result of the forum the service advisor said that she had never heard of or see the headgasket problem before. She said that she would call the Subaru regional technical support for answers. Should I hold my breath waiting for an answer?
    Yup - I am the stuckie in this situation.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Hahahaha.... wow. She must be a new employee. I got my laugh for the day. Hopefully, though, it is not on you. :(
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • dsaindsain Member Posts: 17
    Yes, that sounds like a tough one. The 4EAT Phase 2 trans was introduced in 99my.

    I was experiencing shift shock sometimes, but only between 2nd and 3rd. I did a fluid change (the car had 90K, I'd purchased it at 84K and don't think it'd ever been done). I changed the filter, but since have found out the filter needs no scheduled maintenance; it's a spin on/canister filter. From Subaru it's something like $45. A match can be found at Carquest for about $9. Subaru No is 38325AA032, Carquest Number is 85365. Service writer told me that I didn't have to change it at all. It's designed to last the life of the car. There is no replacement filter for the one in the pan. If you feel like getting into it, use RTV sealant for the pan, and wash the screen out with an appropriate solvent.

    Disconnecting and reconnecting the battery 30 minutes later will cause the computers to lose their programming, and they will build new tables during the first approximately 300 miles driven afterwards. This might work. I know it works for the ECU, but I'm kind of skeptical about the trans. I'd hazard a guess that the target shift points are fixed. Might be a problem with the 2-4 brake, which is common in shifts from 2-3, 3-4 & 4-3. Fluid change is where'd I'd start. Maybe the TCU has a problem.

    David
  • dsaindsain Member Posts: 17
    Your "service advisor" must be new to Subaru. '00-'02 headgasket problems aren't unusual. I'm dealing w/Subaru right now with leaking left gasket. I'd rather fix this than sell it, and if Subaru will help me they are golden in my eyes, but I think there should have been a replacement recall. Head gaskets should last more than 104,000 miles in my case. My leak is internal. The recall and extended warranty (if recall is performed) covers external leaks to 100,000 miles.

    Best of luck to you!

    David
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    more like '96-up! :P

    the problem still happens on '03s, it just remains to be seen whether they've actually improved the design or most '03s don't have enough miles yet to start really seeing the problem.

    ~Colin
  • u_r_a_busu_r_a_bus Member Posts: 3
    Len, Colin, thank you for your help. I replaced the plugs and fuel filter. While driving home last night i began to wonder if it was related to my defroster. I think this is where the suspicious clicking comes in. I turned the defrost off and the problem went away. Upon further testing when i got home, the problem occurs when the defrost or a/c are on. It looks like both of these use the compressor. When either is turned on, i get a strange clicking in the fuse box and the compressor does some funny stuff. Does this sound electrical or should i have the compressor replaced? If is the compressor, is that a simple job, or one better left for the mechanics? Thanks again,

    Steve
  • gracejgracej Member Posts: 6
    Hi all,

    Maybe i posted in the wrong place, but i'm sure someone knows about replacing the window gusset on my 97 obs. I found instructions for taking the door apart in the logged threads. The download had no name attached; I'm thinking Colin, maybe he moved on. If anyone out there knows, i'm wondering if i have to replace more than the gusset now that the window is so whack. The motor seems fine, but when the window goes up, it veers out of alignment and tends to fall back down; i have to pull on it as i close the door to keep it in place.

    These windows are such a common problem, it must get boring, but i can't put off fixing mine much longer. Thank you for any insight, grace
  • dsaindsain Member Posts: 17
    True, friend of mine replaced his in his '98 a year ago, and soon they '03s will have enough milage to know if the trend still plagues us. The P/N for the gasket set changed at one point, so I assume Subaru, in their infinite wisdom, decided to redesign them so they might last longer. That should warrant a free head gasket upgrade for all owners.
  • mtyler1mtyler1 Member Posts: 4
    Jim,

    Thanks for the advice. That's the one thing (besides replacing the computer) that i haven't tried yet. I'll give it a try this weekend. Thanks
  • mtyler1mtyler1 Member Posts: 4
    David,

    Thanks for your expertise. We did have the trans fluid changed about 6 months ago but the problem did not go away. Forgive my ignorance, but when you say TCU are you referring to the computer? Is there a computer that controls the vehicle shifting? Can you explain a little further what you mean by the 2-4 brake? Thanks for taking the time to help.
  • mtyler1mtyler1 Member Posts: 4
    Thanks for the reply. You are right about the A/T temp light coming on for reasons other than fluid temp. According to the trans shop that is suggesting a computer problem, they monitored the fluid temp and found it to be normal.
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    sorry, it wasn't me. I actually don't have a lot of experience with windows other than replacing window itself and I've done a few older GM plastic clip jobbers.

    ~Colin
  • lcoxlcox Member Posts: 2
    Over the last month or two the door locks on my 2000 Forester will keep clicking open even when I'm driving or after the car has been turned off. The security system was factory installed in 2000 and I haven't had anything changed that would seem to have caused this problem. Has anyone else experienced this problem? I took it to my local Subaru dealership and they couldn't find anything wrong. I'm going back there next week to give them another shot at it since allowing my doors to be unlocked at random times isn't very safe. Any help would be appreciated!
  • leo2633leo2633 Member Posts: 589
    I had the same problem with my 2001 Forester about 2 years ago. The dealer changed the battery on the remote and that solved the problem. You might want to try leaving the remote at home and then taking a drive to see if that solves the problem.

    I hope this helps.

    Len
  • gracejgracej Member Posts: 6
    Thanks for your reply though. i guess i'll just give it a try and hope to muddle through (without out biting off more than i can chew) grace
  • dsaindsain Member Posts: 17
    Yes, the TCU is the Transmission Control Unit. It monitors throttle position via the Throttle Position Sensor (probably recieves this signal from the ECU), and speed to determine when to shift. The 2-4 brake is an internal part in the trans. I read through the operation (Subaru Service Manual) and saw it's common to all the shifting ranges you are talking about.

    Good luck, and hopefully it's a simple computer problem.

    David
  • scoutazscoutaz Member Posts: 2
    Jim: Thanks for the advice -- we'll look into that. Our local dealer did make a sincere effort to diagnose, spoke to Subaru, did many systems tests but found nothing "wrong" and took no action. We were told the Subaru techs said not to be concerned until "there is no coolant in the reservoir" (opposite of our problem) or the engine temp goes "into the red." With a brimming reservoir, however, we continue to worry about lack of coolant in the radiator... Scout in AZ
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    For my Forester it was in the spare tire well, on the back wall towards the rear of the vehicle.

    -juice
  • psfod3psfod3 Member Posts: 63
    In the 03 Forester
    1- Does the front diff. have fluid that can be changed independent of the tranny fluid?
    2- Is it transmission fluid or something else.
    3- Does the front diff. fluid if different ever have to changed. And can it be checked.
    4- Is there a gasket or seal between the tranny and front diff. that can leak or is it together in a sealed unit?
    Ask ten dealers get ten totally different answers

    Hope someone really knows?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    1. If you have a manual trans, then they are shared. Gear oil for both. Not sure if the ATF is used in the front diff, but my guess (uneducated) is no.

    2. ATF for an auto, 75w90 gear oil for manual. The latter stinks to the high heavens so wear gloves when you work around it.

    3. Yes. I did mine (MT5) at 60k miles. It wasn't too dirty, so that interval should be OK.

    4. No idea. The drain plug on the manual is on the bottom. 17mm IIRC. Fill via the dip stick, it's yellow to help you find it. I ran a tube down and connected the other end to a funnel, fed it in that way. You fill it until it begins to spill out. It's a bit of a messy job.

    Most of these comments apply to my manual transmission model, remember. I think it took a little less than 4 quarts total. The rear diff takes about 1 quart of 75w90 gear oil as well.

    -juice
  • dsaindsain Member Posts: 17
    I can tell you about 00 outback & 06 forester (automatics). Front diff dipstick is on the right side near the axle. Fluid is GL-5 and interval is 30,000 miles. There is no circulation between the two. Check your owners manual; it details fluid types and the maintenence schedule will give you the correct intervals.
  • jfljfl Member Posts: 1,396
    1. Front Diffy: diffy fluid on a manual tranny is shared with the tranny. If you have an auto tranny, it is independent, uses gear oil (same gear oil as rear diffy).
    2. 75W90 gear oil (GL-5?)
    3. Changed at 30k miles, dipstick on passenger side. (Roughly the opposite side to the auto tranny dipstick on the driver side.)
    4. Can't help with this one.

    Jim
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    #4 with a MT is no. I have no idea on an automatic. The Subaru 4EAT tends to be very reliable, so I've never seen the guts nor had a reason to do anything other than flush the ATF.

    ~Colin
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    So my 05 Outback XT has been sounding like it has a squadron of WWII bombers in back lately, and I took it in suspecting a bad rear wheel bearing. The dealer confirmed this diagnosis, and is awaiting approval from SOA to repair it under warranty. I happened to scan the forums on the LegacyGT site, and many other early production 05 owners are starting to report similar issues (at least 12-15 other reports). Either it was a problem with the early 05 cars, or we're all just reaching high enough mileage to notice the failures (I'm at 32K). Thankfully, Subaru switched to a self contained hub/bearing assembly design, which makes it next to impossible to screw up the repair -- unlike earlier problems with Impreza/Forester bearings where the cure was often worse than the original problem.

    Anyway, heads up -- it looks like we may be back to hearing about bearing issues. Some people have already had multiple bearing replaced....

    Craig
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Thanks for the heads-up, we should note that.

    Pat Goss did a whole segment about the new self-contained bearings that are used nowadays. Not specific to Subaru, just noting the trend. They cost more to replace, so hopefully that'll teach Subaru to get them right.

    -juice
  • lcoxlcox Member Posts: 2
    Thanks Len. I've actually tried both replacing the battery in the remote and leaving it at home and neither has worked. Hopefully the dealership will have better luck with it tomorrow morning.

    Linda
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    For the auto, the front differential is part of the same overall assembly as the transmission, so, since they do not share oils (as noted previously), there must be a seal separating the two where the drive shaft enters the front differential. If there is a seal, then there is also the possibility of it leaking. I have never heard of it happening, but that means very little! Now, whether it leaks directly into the transmission and an ATF-bathed area, I could not answer.

    Thanks for the reminder though - I need to do some fluid changes here before winter strikes.
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    My '97 OB Ltd. wagon tires are old, leaking and worn, and the studded set is stale and rock hard (all 8 tires must date back to '97). Size is 205/70 R 15's. I'm ready to spring for a new set.

    The problem is I don't drive the OB much - 4500 miles in the last 12 months -- 2500 of those miles were 50 mile round trips to the local ski hill on a well maintained road. The last 5 miles are usually snow packed but it's only occasionally icy or covered with any significant snow depth.

    Since I'm not driving it much, and just around town in the summer, I'm not sure it's worth it to pay a lot of money for some high tread wear tires. If the minivan dies, I suppose the OB could become the commuter and highway rig, but I really don't think the OB will become our main car anytime soon.

    Suggestions?

    Steve, Host
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    Sounds like you need a sensible set of all-season tires. The Yokohama Avid T4 is probably the best bang for your buck. They should be around the $50 mark.

    Ken
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Sounds good - $54 from the Tire Rack. Big O has them locally here too. I knew there was a brand that I was forgetting. Thanks Ken!

    Steve, Host
  • chakrachakra Member Posts: 2
    My daughter graduated from college just over a year ago and used all her graduation money to buy a 1999 Subaru Forester with 100,000 miles on it. She is working at a non-profit in a tiny town, and is being paid almost nothing. Not long after she bought the car it started running rough. After paying one mechanic to do work that didn't solve the problem she found a person with Subaru experience. He replaced her transmission (automatic) with a rebuilt early this summer. This wiped out everything she had earned, and then some.
    Then the car started running hot. She never let it get out of the red, but it did get into the red a couple of times. The mechanic flushed the radiator and said he had to do it 3 times before a big clog broke loose and a bunch of junk came out. Also said the coil pack was bad, so he replaced that, the plugs, and the wires. He said the head gasket tested good. Another $900. This was a week ago.

    Today she got about an hour into a 5 hour trip and the engine went into the red again. She had been on the interstate and it happened when she slowed for construction. The mechanic at the side of the road said it is probably the head gasket, and he won't touch it.

    Two questions: is this the likely diagnosis? If so, does the engine have to come out to replace the head gasket? I am several hours away but am going up there next weekend and could do the work myself.

    Any advice/insight is appreciated.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    It's very, very likely that it's the head gasket. I'm surprised the mechanic said "the head gasket tested good", I guess he did a pressure test at that time. I bet that was the problem all along.

    Coil pack only costs $80, but that's already done. Wires, the coil pack, and spark plugs were overdue if they had not been done already. My Miata needs new wires every 30k miles!

    Call 800-SUBARU3 to see if her car falls within the VINs that are covered under the 8/100 gasket warranty, the catch is the previous owner had to have a coolant conditioner added. That plus if you flushed the radiator that would have removed the additive, and may be why the gasket failed now.

    Still doesn't hurt to call them and ask if they can help in some way.

    -juice
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Sounds likely to be the head gasket. No, the engine does not HAVE to come out, but there is a lot more knuckle room if it does. There are a few more tests that can be done to be sure, but if you are willing and able to do the work, then just replace all the related odds and ends while you are at it and call it good. A few things that would be candidates for replacement: thermostat, water pump, timing belt, radiator hoses. You will also need cam seals. And you might need intake manifold gaskets and head cover gaskets. But, due to some sort of part# incompetency, I was unable to secure either of these last time and just reused the old ones (after a thorough cleaning) in conjunction with NAPA gasket maker (dark blue silicon I fondly call "gasket goop") Amazingly, I am at 20K miles now since my head gasket replacement and still not a drop of oil lost to the external.

    Sorry to hear about her ongoing problems. Sounds like she was the victim of an unscrupulous seller. :mad:
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • kenskens Member Posts: 5,869
    No problem. Yokos are great tires and offer great performance. I've used the Avid H4s before and liked them a lot. In fact, I think America's Tire/Discount Tire's own store brand is a rebranded Avid.

    Ken
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    Yep, the original owner didn't take the best care of it.

    There should have been a sticker on the radiator about the coolant additive. :mad:

    -juice
  • locke2clocke2c Member Posts: 5,038
    I've done headgaskets twice on a Subaru with the engine between the fenders and once with the engine pulled.

    NEVER AGAIN will I do it between the fenders. It makes the job much more difficult. It's totally worth the time it takes to unbolt the transmission and disconnect the harness.

    You do want new intake manifold gaskets but the valve cover gaskets should be just fine, they have minimal torque and it's a little reusable rubber seal.

    ~Colin
  • chakrachakra Member Posts: 2
    Thanks for all the advice. The reason I asked about pulling the engine is that I will not have access to a garage. This will truly be a driveway repair, if I have to do it. Don't even know where I could rent an engine hoist in the little town where she is, though it might be worth trying to track one down.
  • xwesxxwesx Member Posts: 16,747
    Oops..... right. Did not mean intake manifold. Definitely get new gaskets for that. I meant the coolant manifold gaskets (just little rubber rings). The coolant manifold runs underneath the intake manifold and has two outlet ports that connect up to the upper radiator hose. :blush:

    Thanks for setting me straight, Colin!
    2018 Subaru Crosstrek, 2014 Audi Q7 TDI, 2013 Subaru Forester, 1969 Chevrolet C20, 1969 Ford Econoline 100, 1976 Ford F250
  • leo2633leo2633 Member Posts: 589
    Just to add my 2 cents: if and when you get new valve cover gaskets, also get the rubber seals that go around the spark plug openings (inside the valve cover) as well as the rubber seals that go under the valve cover hold down bolts and washers. I have found these to last less than 60K miles (every other spark plug change). Just another fun Subaru quirk!

    Len
  • subearusubearu Member Posts: 3,613
    The dealership called this week doing their own little survey for how things went with my service experience. I mentioned I wasn't happy with the outcome, especially since something was identified as the cause (even though it may be operating normally). So, the service manager of the dealership actually came to my house today, lives just a couple of blocks away and listened to the noise.

    He's going to check if there are any bulletins out there on it, but he figures they'll just replace the power steering pump sometime next week. I doubt it's an in stock item.

    -Brian
  • nickelnickel Member Posts: 147
    When I bought my OB, my dealer offered free maintainance for 2 years. that means changing oil, of course. But a lot of my friends have been telling me that here in Minnesota, I'd like to have synthetic oil on the motor. My question is: How can I convince my dealer to put synthetic on the car,w/o having to pay for it?
  • c_hunterc_hunter Member Posts: 4,487
    If you're getting something for free, it's probably not cool to haggle with them. Of course, if you bring your own oil, they would probably be able to put it in the engine during oil changes. That's what a lot of people do.

    Honestly, I have used regular oil and synthetic off and on for a couple years (in different cars), and for a car like the Outback, I think either is fine. As long as you get oil changes regularly, the engine should last a long time. When Subaru starts recommending synthetic for the engine, then consider it more important. Until then, I'd consider it an unneccesary and expensive optional exercise. We see plenty of high mileage Subarus around that have run on nothing but regular oil.

    In cold weather, you may get an additional benefit if easier starting out of synthetic, so perhaps someone from a colder region can weigh in. I know friends in Minnesota, and they all need engine block heaters regardless of the oil they are using. So the synthetic can only help so much.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Member Posts: 72,587
    As it costs them a lot more, 3 times as much for synthetic, I think it's fair for them to ask you to bring it in yourself, or at least pay for the difference in price. Talk to the service manager to see if he can work out an "upgrade" deal for you.

    -juice
  • steverstever Guest Posts: 52,454
    Funny how after balancing, stems and disposal fees, these $50 tires wind up approaching $88 bucks each. :shades: They are out of stock (summer lag?) but should be here from Denver in a few days.

    Steve, Host
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