Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

tannery77

98 Subaru Outback Legacy Wagon, auto, 1.9L, 160K....blue.
I bought it used with an oil leak. I planned to get the leak fixed quick, but the brakes went out...subsequently the axle needed replacing too. Next, friend drove it to school...it stalled, started smoking from the engine, and when she tried to start it back up, the ignition only clicked repeatedly. Independent dealer can't be found.
What in the world happened with this lemon? :lemon:

mevans

Thanks for the feedback. I had a friend with a reader check the car out and the only code we could get off of it read NOx sensor malfunction. This is my O2 sensor isn't it? I was told that it would probably go off and that 90% of the time it wasn't the O2 sensor at all. That it's just reading that because the sensor is doing it's job and sensing... It's an expensive part, but it is worth replacing to see if that's the issue?

The light is still inconsistent, on for a day and then off for a day but the car is starting to run rough in higher gears, 4th and 5th. This roughness is really subtle, but I drive this car a lot and there's a different feel to the engine in these gears, even after the car has had a chance to warm up (we've had colder weather in the mornings recently).

Any comments are welcome, thanks!

xwesx

Er, what size engine? 1.9L was not an option on a '98 Outback. At that point, I think the only engine offered was the 2.5L. The description you provided is not really enough to begin to diagnose a possible problem. What happened before it stalled? Any cutting of power? Any noises? Any dash lights? You say it has an oil leak, so how bad is it and from where is it originating? If the leak is bad, the smoke might just be from the oil burning off the exhaust and was not readily noticed except when opening the hood while the vehicle was still very hot (assuming the driver did open the hood). Then, the ignition "clicked repeatedly." Was that on a single try?

starrman

I thank that settles it - no Slick 50 for my cars. I was unaware of all FTC actions against oil additive companies. I got suckered by all the info ads.
Thanks to all.

toboggan

Sometimes when doing light braking there is a pulsating - steering wheel gently rocks side to side. But when the brake pedal is pressed hard, the pulsating disappears. Today the brakes were "normal." Is there a fix other than resurfacing the discs??

This is on a 1998 OBW Ltd 5 speed is about 100,750 miles on the odometer. The front discs were replaced about 20,000 miles ago with new pads. The brakes are not abused or mis-used.

MNSteve

c_hunter

Getting the rotors turned is about the only fix I know of.

Generally, the rotors will have to heat up for the problem to be noticeable. So sometimes you'll notice the problem, sometimes you won't, depending on the type of driving and amount of braking.

Craig

once_for_all

recheck the torque on the wheel lug nuts. I have found that "warped" rotors can go away with the proper torquing.

John

tannery77

thanks xwesx, you're right ...
2.5L
it bogged down when she pushed the throttle, then finally stalled. she said it bogged for about 5 miles, felt like a fuel problem. white smoke from engine when it stalled. tried to restart and it only repeatedly clicked. belts looked good. radiator looked good. no major signs of problems.
???

jfl

Clicking is usually a starter solenoid. I'm assuming the engine is not turning over.

First, you'll need to get the engine to turn over. Then you can check if it's pumping fuel. Next, see if you're getting a spark and where.

Jim

lrutherford

We have a 2004 5 speed Outback wagon with the exact same problem, very "jerky" launching in 1st and 2nd gear. It is my wife's car and I don't enjoy driving it due the the shifting problem. We previoysly had a 2000 Outback 5 speed and it shifted beautifully. We also had a 99 Outback standard that was a dream to drive, crisp and precise shifting. We had bought the 99 used and found that the transission had been rebuilt and the clutch replaced. The 2004 seems to have a very "sloppy" transmission. It does not feel tight and precise as the other two cars did and, we also notice that the gears grind going into 1st if the car is moving, (syncronizer?). To shift into 1st we have to go into 2nd then into 1st. Per the Subaru dealer this is normal for a Subaru. Aside from the transmission and assorted other problems we have had with this car, only 40K miles, it is a great car to drive and is a go anywhere any time you want vehicle. Perfect for our New England weather!

lrutherford

Our Outback wagon with a 5 speed manual transmission has had a faulty cruise control since we bought the car and the dealer and Subaru don't know how to fix it. We have received the dreaded "They all do that" statement. Originally the cruise worked great except, on the highway when the car went down a hill, the cruise would turn off and remain off and would need to be reset. The dealer did get it working but, now the cruise jerks off and on going down hill. It is so violent that we either turn the cruise off if we see a long hill or we don't use the cruise at all. Since we drive the car often on long trips this is an annoying problem. Has anyone else had the same problem or have an idea as to a fix for this? Per the Subaru dealer and SNA, this is only found on standard shift cars with the drive by wire throttle.

c_hunter

Somebody correct me if I am wrong, but I don't think the Legacy/Outback got DBW until the all-new 05 models came out.

once_for_all

The first gear synchro problem is not "they all do that" kind of problem. But not knowing how you are driving it, I can't really compare. If you try to downshift into 1st with the car going 25 mph then yep, "they all do that". But at speeds less than 10 mph there should not be any problem.

You might change the gear oil. I hear that synthetic gear oil can defeat synchro operation. What gear oil are you running?

John

tannery77

JFL---thank you for your input, and thank you too xwesx. I broke down and had it looked at yesterday and it was a burnt-up alternator. It literally burnt-up which explains the smoke. It's already replaced and running well. I never would have guessed the alternator, but it makes sense now because I used to have an 88 Subaru GL that blew two alternators within 3 months. Seems to be a common problem with Subarus.
Thanks for all your help.
rt

xwesx

Hmmm..... yes, interesting. The repeated clicking upon trying to start is definitely the solenoid, but I wonder if it is low on juice. A solenoid certainly would not have caused a stall, though it does seem like the two events must be related. Have you had the battery tested? I almost think that this problem is a bad alternator, though I am seriously tossing that from left field. The reason I asked about the dash behavior while this was happening is because when I had the equivalent of an alternator literally stopping, I noticed that the tach and speedometer needles quit, along with temp, fuel, and down the line, for a few minutes prior to the engine stalling. The car did feel quite sluggish while this was happening - especially when attempting to increase engine RPM. In my case, the connector had come unplugged.

Is the car still dead at this point?

xwesx

haha.... score one! Too slow on the diagnosis though. Sorry 'bout that.... :mad:

toboggan

Hmm, forgot about the torquing problem with the lug nuts. Have to check tomorrow.

Thanks for the reminder.

MNSteve

spider780

how do you fix it?

lrutherford

The Subaru dealer stated and I confirmed, it is a drive by wire car, no throttle cables on this car.

lrutherford

The car's transmission grinds going into 1st and sometimes reverse from neutral and, it grinds downshifting into 1st when the car is rolling, maybe a couple of miles and hour. I don't shift down to first when the car is moving more than a couple of miles an hour max. Generally I now shift from neutral to 2nd then to 1st to make sure there is no grinding. I have even made sure the floor mat is not bunched up under the clutch arm. Our 2000 and 1999 Outbacks never ground the gears. We have the original Subaru trans fluid in the trans.

once_for_all

something's not right.

Any air in the clutch hydraulics? How is the tranny gear oil level, what kind of oil is in it now? It also sounds like the first gear synchro might be gone. Any metal stuff in the tranny oil? What is certain is that if you continue to go like this it will be bigger bucks to fix it eventually.

John

xwesx

Replace the knock sensor? See the location here. Just remove the old one and install another. In this image, the intake manifold is removed, so when the engine is in the bay and intact, the sensor should be located behind/below the manifold near the top-center-rear of the block. The location noted in the photo requires you to visualize the coolant manifold removed....

Let me know if this was of no help and I will try again.

rexy01

Hi Guys thanks for your reply's,

A little more info on the mods to car. The BOV is an adjustable type that i have set at half plumb back and half to atmosphere, just enough to make it stop popping on gear changes. The intake is a dry type filter that I specifically bought as I knew the rex's had problems with the air flow sensor getting clogged up with oil.

I do have plans to upgrade to a front mount intercooler and new ECU in the very near future. I have also been told that to fit a front mount you need to have a pod filter fitted as the standard airbox will be in the way of the piping.

I have also had the MAF tested by an auto electrician and he definately thinks it is faulty.

Cheers

Phill

p.s I forgot to mention that I'm writing from Australia.

PF_Flyer

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locke2c

"dry type filter"

please tell me that it is not a metal filter, such as Blitz.

~Colin

amstern

Do i have to replace the external handle or is there a fix for this problem? I've read some-where that the problems lies with the pivot points in the handle. something about a part not retracting the way it's supposed to.

michael_lee76

Hello, all.

I purchased 2006 Subaru L.L. Bean edition about a year ago (it has about 5k on it as of today). Ever since I purchased it, I've been having a wind leak noise problem on the driver side door. It's happening in where the window, the door and door frame meets. When I put my finger on top of it, the noise stops. I brought my car to the dealer but they said it's a normal problem and there is nothing wrong with it. If so, howcome it is not happening on my passenger side door?

Has anyone experienced the similar problem? if you did, were you able to find a solution?

TIA.

Michael.

michael_lee76

My 2006 Forester has another problem. When it was sitting for a while, it produces a lot of gas odor as soon as I start it. It goes away after driving it for a while.

What is so strange is it started to happen right after the fuel pump was replaced. I thought maybe the fuel residue that was left out when the fuel pump was replaced was causing the problem. however, it's been almost 10 months and it's still happening.

Again, my dealership said there was nothing wrong with the car and there is nothing to be fixed.

Did anyone have similar issue with your forester? Any help would be appreciated!!

TIA.

Michael.

michael_lee76

Ok, the last problem. I posted this problem before, but could not get an answer till now. so i'll try again.

My 2006 Forester (LL bean) have had fuel pump noise problem ever since I purchased the car. It always has a very high-pitch (sounds like electric humming) noise. It does not matter whether I accelerate the car or not. As soon as I turn on the car, the noise starts.

My dealership tried to replace the pump, but the replaced pump also had the same noise..

If anyone had similar problem and have a solution to this, I would love to hear it..

Thanks a lot.

Michael

c_hunter

I had to replace the mirror gusset on our 03 Forester because of excessive wind noise:

http://members.cox.net/craig.hunter/gusset/

The noise may instead (or also) be coming from another part of the window gasket. There are several ways to adjust the glass (position and angle) to solve that problem if it's the case.

With the window up and door closed, look around the glass and the gasket where they meet, and see if there are any obvious gaps or misalignment. Do this from inside and outside the car. Use the other (quiet) side of the car as a reference. If you think you found a defect, you can try taping over it with electrical tape, then drive the car and see if it indeed was the problem spot.

The bottom line is that it's not right, and should be fixed under warranty. This is a common problem with an easy fix. Call the Subaru 1-800 number if your dealer is not responsive.

Good luck!
Craig

c_hunter

This was a common problem with the early 06 models. I would call the Subaru 1-800 number and talk to them about this. Your dealer may not have done the repair properly (or maybe at all!). In fact, they would have needed to get the proper revised part -- if they just replaced with the same problematic pump, I can see how it would still make noise. Let the folks at Subaru 1-800 sort it out.

mattpgh

So I tried to search the forums and I having a hard time with the search function, some quick browsing through the posts didn't turn up any answers, but wow! what a wealth of info on here!

Anyway, I just bought a 1999 Outback Wagon with about 97,000 miles on it... The rear gate is stuck. It was stuck when I first looked at the car, then the lot/dealer fixed it, and it worked when I picked the car up. Now its stuck again and basically won't open at all.

do I need a new part or something? is this a common problem? Is there some kind of trick to getting these things open? I want it fixed right as this is a MAJOR inconvenience, but IMO a seemingly minor repair.

thanks

xwesx

Hmmm... that is interesting as it is the first I have heard of this as a problem. Can you tell if the latch releases or not when you pull the door handle? If not, then it might be an adjustment issue with how far the latch handle can move the cable vs. the travel on the latch. If the latch does release, then perhaps an alignment issue. If you are able to get it open, try lubing up the latch with some lithium grease. and work it several times before you close the gate again. If not, then perhaps you can crawl into the back from the inside and pop open the mechanism with a screw driver. I would have to take a closer look at mine to determine if there is even enough clearance to get at it, but if not then you should be able to take off the door paneling without too much effort. There are quite a few access holes in the metal under there.

rexy01

No it is an apexi paper filter. I found a review and this filter beat all of the top brand names such as blitz, hks and K & N.

gaucho1

vbhoo,

A lemon is a lemon is a lemon. Sell that turkey, preferably to someone you will never see again! In the aviation business, we used to call them "hangar queens". Same assembly line, same specs, but there was always one...

As for the mechs, I am blessed with a couple of damned good ones at the local shop. In your area, it might be different. Quality control, both in the vehicle design and the mechanic's training may be catching up with Subaru. Both used to be good, until Subaru got popular. Having bought a 2006, and comparing it to my old 1987, I can't say there has been an improvement. In some areas, the "progress" has been downright stupid.

You might consider buying a used Subie, or perhaps something else. When the numbers eventually show up at Subaru headquarters, perhaps the suits will get back on track. If not -- so goes the market.

Gaucho

gaucho1

Lou,

If there is a possibly of being beamed up, you might want a bigger noonroof!

Gaucho

michael_lee76

Thanks. I called 1-800 number and opened a new case.

I'll post the update once I hear from them.

shazbaaa

We have a 1999 Subaru Outback Wagon and over the past few months have noticed white smoke and the smell of burning oil when the car has been running at highway speeds for a while, say 25 miles+. Doing local driving for short periods of time does not seem to cause the problem. Does this problem sound familiar???

ic_designer

My 02 Outback LL Bean has the same high pitch noise since day one. If I am standing outside with engine running, I can hear the high pitch noise. Inside the car I can barely hear it. On the freeway, the fuel pump noise is buried by road noise. Atleast I know the fuel pump is working. It is an analogy to telephone line. Telephone company purposely injects very low noise level into line so that the user does not feel that the telephone line dead.

Alland

mattpgh

thanks, I think I got it. i figured out the trick to open the gate. the gate itself wasn't stuck but the locking mechanism was...

anyway, the car drives pretty well. a couple of things I have noticed so far...

first, it seems like there is a slight hesitation in acceleration, I think its the shift from first to second gear (its an automatic tranny). I think I read a few posts here about this, and this is sort of normal, is this correct?

second, it seems like it downshifts sort of abruptly sometimes when I apply the brakes, or at least I *think* its downshifting, I suppose it could be the ABS grabbing too? Anybody else notice anything like this, and is this sort of normal too? for the most part, the transmission seems to shift pretty smoothly.

I'm adjusting from a Plymouth Neon, and I'm wondering if I need to sort of change the way I drive the car a bit?

what should I expect to pay for tires? I will probably need to replace them next spring, and I'm not looking to break the bank. anyboday care to recommend a make/model tire?

xwesx

Yes, it sounds like an oil leak dripping onto the exhaust system. You will not notice the smoke unless the car's exhaust is fully heated, so short trips probably would not invoke it. The faster the driving, the more wind speed, and the further back the oil will be blown as well (increasing chance for direct contact with exhaust). It would be worth a crawl under to see what/where, etc. Most likely it is either the valve cover gaskets or the camshaft seals, but impossible to say for sure without further inspection. Note how far forward on the engine the oil starts, as this usually is a good indicator of where the leak is originating. The engine will usually be oily from that point back due to the airflow over it while driving.

cptplt

I have a 98 which did the same thing. spraying some WD40 into the mechanism on teh latch where you actually press it seemed to help a lot and make it far less frequent, but I eventually had it replaced.

michael_lee76

I called 1-800 number, and they said the noise is a normal sound of the fuel pump and there are no new fuel pump for replacement. They don't even have it listed as an existing issue. I'm very frustrated!

With many issues with 1 year old subaru already, and the ignorance of Subaru, I know what my next car will be. DEFINITELY NOT Subaru!

I didn't have a single problem with my 6 year old Hyundai. I think I'll go back to Hyundai.

lakepop

Looks like somebody is going to get a real good deal on your Sube. All they will need to do is replace the fuel pump.......and how much could that be? ($100)

shazbaaa

It all sounds very expensive fix to me! I am not sure how complicated it is to fix a gasket; should I take it to the dealer or will just a regular garage be okay to perform the fix? Thanks,

xwesx

It all depends on the source of the leak. If it is coming from one or more camshaft seals, then I would recommend taking it to someone knowledgable with Subarus, as you have to dig all the way in to the timing belt to get to the cam seals. While in there, might as well replace other items such as water pump, crank seal, all the cam seals, timing belt, etc. It is, almost literally, no extra labor to replace these other items and they are about $200 in parts, total (water pump, belt, all seals). So, I would look at the cost of a timing belt replacement, and add about 2 hours of labor cost and $100 in parts to that. So, what.... $500 total for a shop? But, first you have to figure out the source of the problem. Otherwise this is all just speculation......

Good luck with it! Keep an eye on your fluid levels and it should not present a problem requiring immediate repair. This is a "planned maintenance item."

michael_lee76

Looks like somebody likes to buy new cars and replace defect parts with his own money. Personally, I like to use the factory warranty.

ebony5

I use Pyroil Multi-Purpose Silicone Lubricant spray on the seals around the doors and back hatch of my '96 OBW. It seems to help prevent the doors from sticking and I hope at the same time add to the life of the seals. On the back of the can it says that it waterproofs,reduces wear, as well as lubricates. I first started using it because the back hatch was beginning to stick. If anyone has anything either pro or con to say about this or similar products I would appreciate the feedback. I am always looking to upgrade the products I use to maintain my vehicle.

lakepop

" With many issues with 1 year old subaru already, and the ignorance of Subaru, I know what my next car will be. DEFINITELY NOT Subaru!

I didn't have a single problem with my 6 year old Hyundai. I think I'll go back to Hyundai. "

Well...I am a big time fan of my Forester....almost 100,000 seamless miles . I am a little sensitive to people trash talking Subaru.
I to would want to use the factory warranty....but it appears they disagree with your fuel pump problem.
Open up a case with Subaru and look for help there.

hypov

Where's the humming you're hearing coming from?

It does not appear that you had mentioned that.

-Dave