Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

c_hunter

Well, if it knows enough that the problem is in bank 2, that will narrow it down.

If it's a lean burn issue then the fuel/air ratio would be too low (unburned fuel would be the opposite problem -- running rich).

You can either assume it's a real problem, in which case I would focus on the fuel injectors and anything else influencing the fuel/air mixture, or a sensor problem in which case you could possibly test the O2 sensor on bank 2. Heck, you could swap O2 sensors between banks 1 and 2 and see if the error code changes sides -- that would pin it on the O2 sensor for sure.

zznalg

Thanks. What you're saying makes sense. In years past, Subaru Corporate reps would respond to inquiries on this forum. Do they still participate? It would further ease my mind to hear from someone from Subaru regarding this question.

c_hunter

We don't have a rep here anymore, but you can sure call them at the 1-800 and talk to a live person. Or e-mail them -- that might actually be better if it's something they need to research. Check the Subaru website for details. People have gotten some detailed and thoughtful responses from Subaru of America in the past, so maybe they can answer your question.

ateixeira

I suggest e-mail as well. That's the type of question that will get an official response.

-juice

zznalg

Thanks for the good advice to contact Subaru of America. I did send them an email and here's the response:

Thank you for visiting the Subaru Web site and for your interest in a 2007 Outback 2.5XT Ltd Wagon. We appreciate that you took the time to contact us regarding these important safety features.

Every safety feature of the 2006 and 2007 Legacy and Outback models are identical. The only difference between the Legacy and Outback models is the increased ground clearance of the Outback models. The IIHS could not include the Outback models with this test, as they did not specifically test an Outback model. But again, the safety features of the Legacy and Outback models are identical.

Thank you for the opportunity to be of assistance. If you need any future assistance, please let us know.

Best wishes,

John J. Mergen
Subaru of America, Inc.
Customer/Dealer Services Department

c_hunter

Awesome, thanks for posting the reply. It's good to get an official confirmation.

Good luck shopping for your XT -- there are some great deals to be found right now. I have an 05 and it's been a great vehicle.

Craig

once_for_all

thanks juice and Craig... I found some further information on P0174 that indicated that a batch of Bosch mass air sensors had some issues with a sensor wire getting covered with lint/dirt. Simple cleaning may solve the problem.

Appreciate your help again. It's what makes this community a nice place to hang out...

John

stantont

I'm not sure if this is the right board for this, but it is Subaru-related: my son has a 1991 Subaru Justy with the DFC-328 carburetor (yes, carburetor). It was bought used, with a bad stumble under part throttle, though seems to be sound mechanically - runs like a little 3-cylinder banshee under full throttle. Idles fine, too.

After doing plugs, distributor cap and rotor, plug wires, O2 sensors, checking vacuum hoses, etc., to no avail, we decided to overhaul the carb. When we opened it, it had obviously been worked on before - buggered screw heads, etc. When we turned it over on the workbench, a tiny ball fell out (from where? dunno) and a small weight shaped sort of like the float needle valve (which is in the kit, and which we replaced). I can put the weight back in - it only fits in one place, and it is actually shown in the kit diagram, labelled an injector weight (new term on me!). But I have no idea where the ball fell from. The carb kit shows no check ball at all though it contains a spare. I guessed the ball was a check valve for the accelerator pump on the primary, and dropped it in there, but something is wrong - when we re-installed the carb, the engine started, then flooded with lots of smoke from the tailpipe and gas fumes under the hood.

Does anyone have a Subaru service manual on this car or carburetor? OR know where I might find a detailed diagram of the carb (the Chilton manual is no help at all)? Subaru's website tech help doesn't list a downloadable service manual for this car.

Any help or suggestions will be most gratefully received.

Thanks!

Stanton

selvarajb

My forester has a huge shifting problem. At 10,20 and 40 mph, the forester essentially drops a good 2 or 3 mph and revvs up 5 mph throwing me forward. If the traffic is moving at 20 mph, I am essentially screwed. I get home with a sore back and neck pain. The dealer says thats how this is. Am I the only guy experiencing this or does Subaru suck so much?

PF_Flyer

Welcome to the forums! There's no need to post your question in multiple discussions. Besure to check the Subaru Forester Transmission Questions discsussion for replies to your post.

ateixeira

Wow, that's odd.

I would check for an on-line parts manual from one of the Subaru parts wholesalers.

I know that they list newer models, but I'm not sure about a '91.

Do you have a Chilton's manual? Wonder if they ever even made one.

-juice

pathtomax

I have a 2001 Outback Ltd Wagon with 105,000 miles. I noticed on a long trip this weekend that my dashboard was getting rather warm. It was almost hot under the radio, in the place where you can put CD's and other things. The temperature gauge is totally normal, but it just seemed odd that the area below the radio was getting really hot.

Am I being paranoid?!

Thanks!

rob_m

I believe that a pipe to the heater core is located behind the radio. Rob M.

fibber2

maybe....

Is this a significant change from your previous observations? Were you running the heat?

Steve

c_hunter

Was the radio on? A long trip with radio on the whole time will definitely cause that area to heat up. Almost all of my cars have done that in recent years.

pathtomax

Yes, the radio is always on The weather was pretty brutal here in New England this weekend so the heat and defrost were both on intermittently.

fibber2

Probably just trapped heat from all the ductwork buried behind there, and the radio.

stantont

The Chilton's manual is for "Subaru Coupes/Sedans/Wagons 1985-96". Not surprisingly, it gives very little coverage to carburetors, and even less for a little-known model like the Justy. There was more detail in the instructions with the carb kit, but as I said, no info on where the ball goes.

I'll check with the parts wholesalers - good idea.

And I'll also check with my local dealers and see if the service folks might happen to have a repair manual for the Justy.

Thanks, Juice.

jfl

It's possible that your carb was also used on some Nissan cars. But I don't know which ones. You'd have a better chance of finding a service manual for a Nissan.

Good luck!

Jim

39b

06 Impreza 2.5 occassionly accelerates to 2500 to 3500 rpm on its own when cold. Holds at that rpm for 10 to 15 seconds then drops back down to about 1200 rpm. Sometimes does it when warm. The dealer say this is normal. Does anyone else have this problem?

subi4obs

I don't know much about these cars but what I do know is there is some sort of throttle sensor(?) which adjust RPM's in some way. Maybe that's causing trouble?

Only other thing I know that causes RPM changes on its own is a cold transmission. Or rather affects automatics by making shift changes to keep a higher rate when cold. Mine did this during a 32 degree temperature morning start on the road.

That large RPM change sure does seem a lot unless it were only a automatic transmission doing a down-shift.

hypov

Don't sound normal.
AFAIK idle ~1200 rpm when cold and then ~700 rpm warm is the norm.
Might be the IAC about to go kapoot.

-Dave

xwesx

Dave, what is the "IAC?"

locke2c

idle air control (motor). it's a solenoid that opens up and lets in air for fast idle when the throttle is closed.

~Colin

stantont

Well, I convinced myself that I did the carb right, but the car still runns like s**t. So I'll ask for any ideas or suggestions before I just bail out on it. Here's the history:
1991 Subaru Justy 3-cylinder, 1.2 liter, carburetor. My son bought it used for $200 from a Katrina evacuee friend who had been given it by a church group when he arrived here, and needed to sell it to go back home. 36,000 miles on odometer (?), but car had been used on a farm or ranch: mud underneath, brush scratches, etc. Pedal wear, struts, steering, etc. suggest the 36,000 is real.

Car was not drivable: clutch was totally fried. Bought a clutch kit for $120 and installed it. Great. Test drive: the car has a BAD stumble at part throttle, also a bit hard to start. Engine seems mechanically sound: no smoke, no bad internal noises, and pulls like a little demon at full throttle.

So to attack the stumble, we changed spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Then oxy sensor, air filter, fuel filter. Checked all hoses (there are lots of them!) for vacuum leaks, cause that's what it feels like. Finally overhauled carb. No improvement, no help, NADA.
My son said it seemed to get worse when he changed the cap and rotor, but I can't imagine why, so am a bit skeptical.
BTW, the car uses a distributor (breakerless) but no visible vacuum or mechanical advance devices. What's with that?

Any brainstorm ideas no matter how far out will be appreciated and maybe tried.

Thanks in advance!

Stanton

jfl

It does sound like a vacuum leak. How's the intake manifold and other mounting areas? While it's running, you can spray carb cleaner at the joints. Any changes to the rpm/running would indicate a potential leak.

Jim

witness_18

Ok...heres the deal for anyone who has any bit of sympathy for me. I have a Legacy 2.5i AUTOMATIC and i need to know what if anything can you do to MOD THIS CAR WITHOUT FULL ENGINE SWAP OR NEW TRANS. PLEASE HELP ME!

cptplt

so I get in my 98 Legacy GT with 130K and start it up in the morning and the starter keeps turning but the engine doesn't start up right away. turn off ignition and the starter is still going!!!! is my car possessed??? is that even possible, must be an ignition switch problem?? it eventually goes off and I wait 30 secs and it starts up fine again and has been fine the last week, any ideas???
(I need an excuse to get a new Legacy GT so the more disastrous the theories the better so I can justify this to the better half !)

xwesx

Well, I know that this is not as disasterous of a theory as you would like, but it sounds to me like the solenoid stuck. It might have been just a random burp, but replacing it would pretty much guarantee it does not happen again.

robdangerd

I just bought a used 02 forester (2 days ago)and am having the same problem you described (water leaking from the sunroof). I followed the thread which was very helpful/informative but your picture links are no longer posted. If you still have them could you forward them to me. Also its been a while are you still dry?

Thanks

Rob

pathtomax

The passenger seat in my 01 Outback Ltd is now rattling over any and all bumps. Is there a way to tighten it? When I have a passenger, it is fine of course :P

I have seen people note this on newer models, but mine is the 01.

ladywclass

about 2 weeks ago, I was coming back from Peoria, IL on US 24 (2 lanes and usually with a semi trying to climb the back of the car) ... not long after dark, I rounded a curve and saw 2 deer step out on the left

Luckily there was only a CAR on my bumper .. I'm trying to brake and watch that they aren't going to rear-end me, while trying to stop in time to miss the deer. The front deer leapt off the road, but the second one jumped ... right into the front of my car ... it hit and went off to the right of the road. We were fully stopped at that point.

The passenger with me said she saw the deer jump up and run off (how far is anyone's guess). She asked if we needed to check the car. My response was, "It's running and we have headlights. It's dark and deserted here. We're driving til the car stops or we have lights - whichever comes first." About 15 miles later, we were able to pull over and check it out. We could not find ONE bit of damage to the car, and I still have found nothing. (Feels incredibly lucky!)

HOWEVER, shortly after hitting the deer, I tried my "highbeams". I can pull the lever toward me and the beams stay on while I have the lever pulled; however when I push it away to have them STAY on, there is the click of the lever, but NO HIGHBEAMS.

My question - a few days before the trip is when I had the alternator replaced, and the brakes done. Anything that could have been hooked back up with the alternator replacement that would cause this problem?

I always drive "in town" so I don't USE the highbeams. I know they worked at one time, but don't know how long this problem has existed ...

any takers ?

xwesx

Tough one, but my guess would be the switch is not making contact with the points for some reason when it is rocked into the "lock" position. I am not sure about the cost associated with replacing it or whether it would require replacement of the entire stem, but, labor-wise, it should not take more than a couple of hours to tear into the steering column, replace it, and put the cladding back on.

Regarding the deer.... damage free?! You must be feeling a little about that!

ladywclass

you have no idea ... I was sure that I'd see damage to the front end when I got back to civilization ... we got out and looked it all over ... looked again after I got home .. husband looked it over ...

can't find anything at all .. must have been a "glancing blow" ... I was so glad it didn't get pitched into the windshield or under the car ... we were VERY lucky!!!

rangner

Hey all!

I was just wondering what torque do you tighten your wheel lugs to? And do you re-torque after 400 miles or so? I've been torquing the lugs on my 2000 outback to 88 to 93 N-M of torque as per the service manual which is about 60 to 70 lb-ft of torque I think.

Anyway, every 6k miles when I take the wheels off, the lugs feel like they only have 30 lb-ft of torque on them. I think I'm getting a some metal shavings from the alloy wheels from driving with loose lugs. This last tire rotation I used some locktite 271 to make sure they don't loosen up, but now I've read that you shouldn't put anything on the lugs just leave em dry :sick:

Suggestions?

jfl

I use 70 to 75 lb-ft and recheck after about 50 miles. I don't loosen them to re-check, I set the wrench and make sure it clicks before the lug nut moves.

leo2633

The factory torque spec (on my wife's 2003 Outback and my 2001 Forester) is 58-72 ft. lbs. You can check with your torque wrench periodically to make sure they haven't loosened if that's a concern, but don't overtighten or Loc-Tite them on.

Len

ateixeira

My torque wrench is set there almost by default. It falls within the range for all the cars in my fleet.

-juice

ateixeira

The bumpers are self-healing.

Actually, they do pop back out after smaller dents. Cool stuff. :shades:

-juice

xwesx

I have a pair of small dents in the front of my hood from where a raptor of some sort flew into it. It was actually quite a funny circumstance....

I was driving north on the Cassiar Highway in British Columbia, just north of Dease Lake. It was about 2100, late August, dusk. With the sunset more or less in front of us along this stretch of gravel road, everything ahead was in silhouette. We were probably traveling at about 40. Suddenly I see these wing tips just above the shadowed horizon (coming right at us about 3' off the ground) and I hit the brakes. The bird thwacked off the hood momentarily and was gone.... then I ran over the hare that was crossing the road in front of me.

I like to recall that situation from the other animals' perspectives! Hahahhaha. :P

ateixeira

If it's creased it's pretty hopeless. They replace the hood.

If not, try a paintless dent removal place, maybe.

-juice

xwesx

The are not creased, but they are right in the transition from the front to the top of the hood... and very small. This happened in August of 2000, about 3 weeks after I purchased it. Honestly, I have never been overly finicky about the exterior appearance of this car, so since there is no functionality affected by it, I chose to let it go. 6 years later and it still works fine with those silly dents, but they do make me laugh every once in a while. At this point, I figure a car with 220K miles does not need a visual makeover. :P

ateixeira

You should kiss it every day for lasting 220k miles. Pretty soon it's quarter million mile club for you. Sent a photo and your story to Drive magazine.

-juice

rob_m

Oh deer
deere
dear!
That's horrible, Bren. Glad you are ok. Rob

xwesx

Oh, man.... it is done for now! *shhhhhhh!* I work more and more for each additional mile. 30K might be a little much to ask of it.

rangner

Well I might have screwed up because I put a generous amount of loctite 271 red on them. I'm going to try and get them off tommorow if possible I might need heat to loosen them up, clean and retorque them. Thanks for the info.

locke2c

uh oh. I hope you don't break the studs.

~Colin

hondafriek

Have to agree with Colin here, you could be in deep Doo-Doo. It begs the question why would you put loctite on wheel studs of all things? How would you ever get the things off on the side of the road.

Cheers Pat.

c_hunter

It depends on which Loctite was used, and I have to confess I don't know their product line well anymore (I used to when I was younger -- I worked in a machine shop while in college, and had a whole palette of Loctite products to choose from). Some of the Loctite products simply increase the friction/fit on the threads without really locking them in place. That would probably be OK for lugs, but still might make a mess with repeated use.

On my 05 OB XT, I have noticed that some of the chrome lugs have galled the aluminum wheels where the lug's cone meets the wheel. Not bad enough that I would worry about it, but I never saw this on a previous car. I assumed the wheels were maybe a bit softer than others I have owned. Who knows though -- could have been done by a impact-wrench at the dealer or something. I use a torque wrench for my own maintenance at home.

paisan

I bet they were not fully tightened down and the rim moved a bit, I've seen that before.

I usually us anti-sieze on my lugs if anything. Then again I also carry 3 lugs and studs to replace on the fly if necessary since they are commonly snapped.

-mike