Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

phil2000

At 319,703 I replaced the right reat bearing. I have been getting 275K+ out of mine. The front right is still original. But will replace and the half shaft during the summer.

I do not let flooded roads stop me. I've driven through a couple that were up to the license plate.

fibber2

I guess I stopped short in my description of why the reduction in speed sets this off. I believe that during the high speed driving a certain amt of hot gases get introduced to the cooling system. Everything is still OK at this point because the high airflow thru the grill coupled with the high volume flow rate of the water pump keeps the 'bubble' in motion and dispersed. In essence, the cooling system has the capacity to keep up with the intrusion.

When you slow down, the worst happens. The fresh air flow rate drops, so you loose transfer capacity. The steam bubble coalesces at the high point in the block and heads, where it causes rapid localized temperature spikes. This non-uniform thermal expansion can do major damage.

Again, just a theory based on observation... Very non-scientific.

phil2000

That would explain a few things:

With a steam bubble floating around it could find its way to the temperature sensors and cause a quick rise. While stopped, I increase rpm to 1.5K, the bubble starts to disperse and indicated temp decreases until the bubble coalesces again. I saw that today.

So just replacing the thermostat with one that has a jiggle pin will not solve the problem?

fibber2

Again, it is one possible reason. As girlcarbuilder (?) pointed out, are your fans running? Is the radiator filled with calcium and other junk from using tap water rather than distilled? These could also cause similar problems.

IIRC, I think I saw two temp senders in a schematic. One goes to the dash gauge, the other to the ECM for running the fans, determining transition from open to closed loop fuel/air control, etc. This or another bad sensor can lead to an overly lean mixture or highly retarted timing, or even a delay in the fans from coming on which can also cause a temp spike. Everything is inter-related.

Sorry, but that old tach-dwell meter won't help you much anymore!

girlcarbuilder

Another thought this morning. Phil, if I recall is one of the high milers out there. If the fans are running, he needs to check the fan bearings for excessive side play. If sleeve bearings, they will slow down a lot and not cool properly. If ball bearing, they should turn very easily when both hot or cold.They will appear to be running, but are not doing a good job from a lower rpm. Grab the edge of the fan blade with the car turned off and cool. Try to push it sideways. If it moves a little bit, pull the fan and further inspect the motor. This will also caused the a/c not to cool as well. I saw this problem on a 1980 Subie years ago.

This could be the answer on a MO fleet unit with a poor a/c cooling complaint I deal with. I will have to call them and advise. That one is at 265K now, a 97 Legacy Brighton.

phil2000

You have a point. Those fans have seen 320,343 miles. Just like the wheel bearings, idler pulleys, and piston slap wear, they too should replaced.

Can you tell me how to replace the boots on the tie-rods?

lg05legacy

So just to update everyone that replied to my initial post of an overheating issue in stop-go traffic, I finally took my Legacy to the dealer to get it looked at.

Their diagnosis: clogged radiator fins. Having that replaced so I'll hopefully be good to go after the part gets shipped overnight & installed. At least it wasn't the head gasket like I initially thought.

fibber2

I assume that they mean clogged tubes (internal clog) as opposed to a bug encrusted outer fins?

In the old days (yes, I'm old...), I'd take a clogged radiator to a local shop, they would remove a side tank, rod it out, 'pickle' it in a caustic brine, resolder the tank and paint it. All for about 1/3 the price of a new radiator. Guess nobody does that today with crimp seal tanks. Pull it and throw it away...

Make sure they chemically flush out the entire system. If the radiator got that bad, the heater core isn't far behind.

ateixeira

Glad to hear that is was something simple (and cheap) and not a gasket after all.

girlcarbuilder

Glad to be able to steer you in the right direction. The final proof will be if it resolves the issue or not.

Something else just came to mind about some of these newer cars I am seeing with the more open areas below the bumper. I am seeing a lot more rock damage on condensers, tranny coolers or radiators....whatever is exposed under there. Am thinking of some kind of grill material to cut down on that damage. Too many crushed fins cuts down on cooling ability.

lg05legacy

Are you talking about something in addition to the plastic "engine guard" that a lot of manufacturers are putting on the under-carriage of cars now? Or something more along the front grille area?

Oh yeah, another update... Not only was the radiator bad, but the fan was bad too. So that has to be replaced also. At least they gave me a loaner. ('10 Forester...I miss the pickup and handling of my Legacy... keep telling myself it'll only be a couple more days)

xwesx

It is actually the area below the grille, between where the fog lights would be mounted. The radiator is usually mounted low enough that much of the air flow it receives comes from this area. Because of the large openings in the molded shell in that area as well as its close proximity to the road, large debris can enter and contact the radiator. Because it is coming from the front, such debris will likely have greater force than that kicked up from underneath the car.

Compared to a previous-gen Legacy, I'm sure the Forester has generous body roll! :surprise:

fibber2

This has been a big topic on the Honda Odyssey boards in the past few years. The 'open mouth' space between the bottom of the 5 mph bumper and the chin spoiler offers a particularly vulnerable region on many cars. For some reason, the exact height and profile of the '05-'08 Odysseys has resulted in a high number of dead AC units, and of course Honda accepts no warranty responsibility. I think for '09 they filled in the space with a honeycomb mesh. My van is an '02, but on close inspection I was amazed at how much of the fin area was flattened from impacts.

While there are some commercial units for sale, I pulled off the covers above and below and fitted a very customized guard made from a fine welded box wire mesh that I bought at Home Depot. The reduction in airflow volume in minimum, but the protection well worth the effort. I'll have to shoot a picture of my handiwork.

Oddly, I don't see as much of a problem on the Outback, although I should probably consider doing it anyhow.

ateixeira

That sort of mesh was a very common upgrade on NA Miatas, which also had such an opening.

rebel71

Hi all,
Took car on highway had her up to 70mph and noticed the steering wheel vibrate/shake not bad but noticeable. New tires had balance and alignment 1,000 miles ago. Prior to these new tires had car up to 90mph and it never shook always smooth. I'm thinking tires need balancing again? Any ideas? Dealer does static balancing but was told by SOA that dynamic is recommended.

thanks

hammerhead

Might be nothing more than a balance weight came off.
Ask for a balance check where the work was originally performed, and insist on dynamic.

fibber2

If the problem started after the tires, then you probably know where to look! As Paul said, start with dynamic balancing, but this may still not solve the problem. If you put a square block on a dynamic balance machine, you will be able to add weights to make it spin smoothly, but it will never drive down the road without thump thump thump. Roadforce balancing adds a roller against the tread that checks for true roundness, and that's how I found a problem on my wife's van.

Also, make sure that the lug nut tightening was done in sequence, and does not exceed torque spec. Uneven tension can damage brakes, which can lead to balance-like issues.

samiam_68

I second these suggestions as they have fixed numerous vibration problems on my Lexus.
1. Back off and hand torque the lug nuts to spec using a clicker torque wrench. I did it in 3 passes - 55/65/75 ft/lb. Make sure to tighten in a star pattern.
2. If vibration still exists, find a place with a road-force balancer and have the tires rebalanced. The Hunter GSP 9700 is a good machine for that. To find one in your area, use this link:
http://www.gsp9700.com/pub/search/findgsp9700.cfm

rebel71

Thank you to all who posted with help. I'm taking it to be roadforce tested and balanced and will make sure they hand tight to spec.

fibber2

You are most welcome, and best of luck!

Oh, one last thought. Watch and make sure that they strip all the weights off and start fresh. Years back when I was chasing down a problem, they just kept adding more and more weights. There must have been some calibration issues between the different balancing stations, and by 'cycling' thru several bays on my various visits, I must have ended up with 15 lbs of lead hanging off the rims!

mousmickey

Hi - i also have a 2008 subara legacy - had noise coming from the wheels - i know it's the wheel bearings - of course, when i went to the dealer, no noise - however, they told me the tires were overinflated ($109) - it's been 1 month - the noise started again today - i will be going back to the dealer so they can hear it - i have about $18,000 miles on my car

ateixeira

Check the pressure before you go, just to make sure they don't blame that again.

rebel71

I understand the frustration because of the noise being intermittent. What does your noise sound like? Does it seem to be coming from a particular area? I've been trying to diagnose the issue for over a year w/dealer. I've brought it in on numerous occasions only to have the noise stop once I get there. :mad: I tell them what it sounds like but they can't do anything till they hear it. $109 to tell you your tires were overinflated, that's priceless. Did they charge you a diagnostic fee?

Best wishes

ateixeira

Bearings went bad on our Mazda 626, but you heard them all the time. Pitch was speed-dependent, but it always made noise.

girlcarbuilder

Sorry, but for some reason I do not always get notice of a post.

You have to carefully remove the outer tie rod first. Count the turns for it to fall off. That way you can reinstall with your toe in close to what it was before you take it in to re-align.

Now, the hard part is breaking the lock nuts and tie rod ends if they are seized. A lot of time a patience with lots of torque will be needed on Northern vehicles.

After you remove the tie rod end and lock nut, then it is a matter of pulling the old boot off after taking the clamp off. I prefer to reuse the spring and clamp that Subaru uses to hold the inside of the boot to the rack assembly. Be careful when you slide the new boot onto the inner tie rod not to damage it on the threads. I clean, scrape and grease that rod before I install the new boot on it. Time consuming so get your favorite drink out!

cskip

Dual air conditioning controls set at 65 and they change to 85 and heat. The fan changes speed randomly. Eventually the controls do not have any effect on the settings. Suggestions? cskip

rthompson9310

hi,

2010 impreza, brand new. Want to get Sirius installed- dealer says they need to install to maintain warranty, 3rd party installer says no-
Of course my warranty book didn't come with car
Sirius components will be genuine subaru parts

Thoughts

RT

kyfdx

If you want the Sirius covered by the warranty, (not just the parts, but anything that might go wrong), then the dealer is probably right.... They aren't going to troubleshoot and repair/replace, plus handle a warranty claim for something you did yourself or had installed elsewhere, even if they are genuine Subaru parts...

Of course, your 3rd party installer might guarantee his work, and agree to take out any bad parts.. but, then you'd probably have to deal with your Subaru parts department directly for warranty coverage (assuming that's where the parts are coming from).

If you want the Sirius covered under your new car warranty, at the same level as the rest of your vehicle, you'll probably have to let the dealer install.. Otherwise, it is the same as an aftermarket addition... It won't affect any of the rest of your car's warranty, unless they can show that your 3rd-party installation caused the problem.

regards,
kyfdx

vee_le

All concerned,

I drive a 2005 Subaru Outback XT. I heard rattling recently, and took a look underneath my vehicle after a couple of weeks--my driveshaft to the rear wheels was hanging on by one loose carrier bolt (there are two) and resting on top of the heatshield and the catalytic converter. No telling what would have happened if I drove further or had no time to look under my vehicle. My guess is that they were improperly torqued at the factory or maybe the lock washer on the carrier bolt that fell out wasn't put on the the factory. It is enough of a concern to me that I am posting to keep you all out of harm's way--check your driveshaft carrier bolts!

ateixeira

Thanks for the heads-up.

Toyota actually has re-torqueing those bolts as part of the 30k mile service for AWD Siennas. That was surprising to find in the service manual.

ateixeira

In this case I agree with the dealer. Not only must a dealer install it, but I think it has to be done with the first 30 days of ownership for Subaru to honor the warranty, something like that.

A dealer will guarantee their own work for 1 year regardless.

Just ask the 3rd party how long they will cover it.

Besides, we're only really talking about any issues with the stereo itself.

rebel71

Hi all, I'm bringing car to dealer today for 2nd time of brake pedal issue. car has 26,000 just replaced brake fluid, cleaned and adjusted brakes. pads have 6mm front and 7mm rear left (was told by dealer the pads start at 10mm) so this is good. I noticed that when stopped at light on a hill or flat spot and it's a long wait, the brake pedal slowly starts to move towards floor though not all the way to floor and then it sounds as if the brakes grab. As if the calipers release and tighten up and the car moves forward a bit, like I'm losing brake pressure, the pedal seems to be soft,mushy. Every time the dealer says nothing wrong except I must be putting a lot of pressure on the pedal. Any ideas? I've had 4 Subaru's and for me their brakes don't seem to be very strong. My hubby drove and said the same thing. He has a Saab, nice brakes. I still love my Subaru.

samiam_68

Sounds like you possibly have air bubbles in the brake lines. Were the brakes bled properly after the fluid was changed?

You can try the following to see if it helps. With the car on flat surface, engine running, transmission in neutral, press the brake pedal SLOWLY as hard as you can, and hold down for about 45-60 seconds, then release. Repeat 4-5 times. Then drive the car normally and see if the brakes feel firmer. If they do, that means the air bubbles got pushed out from the lines and into the brake fluid reservoir while you were pressing the pedal.

girlcarbuilder

What I write here applies to all cars. Basic hydralics.

If you do not have pure brake fliud in the lines, the boiling pressure drops. This appears to be your problem because it gets worse as time goes on with the pedal pressed. Pressure creates heat. Heat causes the fluid to boil more. When this happens, you have a gas which will compress more easily. The only way I have ever lowered this problem or eliminated it totally is to pressure bleed the entire brake system. AKA a flush. The tools used actually push or draw new fluid in to replace the old with an electric pump. This also gets rid of any air and trash in the system. At 26K, chances are very good some tech did not pay attention when working on the brakes at some point in time and had a bleeder valve open too long while working on the car, because the system is too new for much to have gone wrong. It is a very good idea to flush about every 8 - 10 years or after a major rebuild.

Another possibilty, but not likely at 26K, you could have a master cylinder failing. If that pedal ever goes to the floor, either you have lost the fluid or the cylinder unit is failing. Either way, do not put off service even if you can pump the brakes. Because too many times it will hit the floor and stay there when you least expect it. One reason I will not use rebuilt/reman master cylinders.

AS for the dealer.....or any other shop when problems arrive.....have the mechanic take a ride with you to see what or how you are driving. Many a joint test drive has settled many an issue when it comes to repairs.

As a final recommendation, if all of your Subies are seeing the same repair shop and all of them have the same problem....change shops!

ateixeira

Nice post, one of many of yours. Hope you stick around to add value to these forums.

Cheers. :shades:

rebel71

Thank you all who posted with information. I follow my maintenance book religiously and I'm doing the 30,000 mile work now. When I made the appointment to replace brake fluid and yes, I requested the lines be bled. Whether they bled them is a different story. The Subaru dealer said to me that changing the fluid is more trouble than what it's worth, because these "new" systems are closed units so no air/contaminates get inside. wow, he must have thought I was born yesterday and being a woman doesn't help. They assume I know nothing about cars, oh how wrong! :P I prefer the dealer do the work while it's still under warranty. Subaru doesn't recommend brake flushing. Test driving with a tech didn't reveal anything except frustration, " I don't feel a problem" The rotors have never been turned either, I won't let them. If they say everything is fine, how do I insist it's not and make them delve further while being nice

samiam_68

As suggested by girlcarbuilder above, try a different dealer.

rebel71

I've been trying to diagnose an intermittent noise coming from the front left tire area for over a year. dealer couldn't fix till they heard it. I've suspected the wheel bearing all along. Today, the tech rode w/me confirmed noise and they replaced the wheel bearing assembly under warranty, whew! I'm disappointed that a wheel bearing would fail so soon at 13,000 original start of issue, now at 26,000. I guess from what I've read Subaru still has an issue w/ their wheel bearings. I assume it's the mfg. that they get their parts from. I hope this fixes the issue and won't have to deal with this for a long time. The noise is hard to describe it's not a typical humming more like a rotational metal disc moving. I hope this helps anyone who might be experiencing the same issue.

kyfdx

I wonder if that's the noise that I'm starting to get from my front left suspension?..... Mine sounds creaky, like I have a bad strut... '08 Impreza sedan..

rebel71

Sorry, to hear you're experiencing noises. No it's not a creaky noise that I had. Is your noise intermittent? I hope that you can get your issue fixed. Perhaps I'm picky or in a perfect world new cars should not have noises.

colin_l

Creaking is usually a spring or swaybar mount. Sometimes you can get the spring to quiet down if you jack up that corner and wiggle the spring a bit.

Swaybar mounts often do creak on Subarus, and various people have tried different types of lube / grease to quiet them down... but the main problem is that you have to unbolt the swaybar to get the grease properly applied to the bushing. Greasing it while fully assembled has a fairly low chance of success.

xwesx

It is possible that it did not seat properly when first installed. Any installation is subject to a certain chance of failure and it may be that yours was that one-in-however-many that failed. When that happens, the part is not going to last too long before it succumbs to the added stress of the improper install.

It is quite possible that this new bearing will last the life of the vehicle with no further problems.

awang44

First to apologize if this is dup post. I try to delete the independent post out side of this thread but not sure if it is successful.

Hello,
My 2007 impreza 2.5i 53k has just been diagnostic with a A/C compressor clutch seized problem. I had it check at a local reputable shop and they quote me about 1000 for a new compressor replace+labor and everything...

The symptom is the clutch would engage only for 8 sec or so then disengage for about 20-30 sec, then repeat. They have check the pressure and top it to the right level and it is still no good.

I'm thinking to go to the dealer, spend $100 for them to diagnose then see if there will be some better response from dealer.

Any comment?
I'm just wondering is it common for this to fail at only 53K?

kyfdx

Not too worried... my lease is up in a month, and it's under warranty...

Just curious!

fibber2

While they could be right, there are things that I would check first based on the behavior before I'd replace everything.

It runs for for a time , but then disengages and stays off for a period, and then kicks back in. They say it is topped off.

If you feel the AC lines, do some go hot, some go cold? Does it do any cooling at all? I wondering if there isn't a problem with the expansion valve on the evaporator or possibly some water in the lines. This cycling can happen if the pressure spikes in the line as a result of one of these two issues, and the pressure valve senses the peak and shuts down the compressor clutch to save it from damage. I'd get another opinion before ripping it apart.

rthompson9310

Hello,

Driving my new 2010 inpreza for 2 weeks now- love it- 5 DR. Was contemplating getting body side moldings to prevent door dings- looks like car is too lowto be effective

thoughts?

rt

ateixeira

Got any pix? I haven't seen what they look like.

xwesx

That could be the case on the Impreza. I have the same moldings on my 2010 Forester, and they both work and look great. I have a couple dings on the moldings, but so far the doors have been spared.

Really, you can only hedge your bets. There will always be an outlier that gets through. Against the vast majority of other sedans, coupes, etc., out there, the moldings on the Impreza will be in just the right place. Versus pickups and SUVs, your chances may not be so good.

rthompson9310

CAn't figure out how to embed pix- however if you look at subaru.com- same molding as on the impreza outback sport but same color as car

RT

ateixeira

Here's a bunch of pics (hard to find non-WRX Imprezas!):

http://www.cars101.com/subaru/impreza/impreza2010photos2.html

Doesn't look like the flares that used to come on the Forester, hmm. Is that just a flush material that goes over the sheetmetal, then painted?

It barely stands out.