So Dennis, if I mod my Forester do you think Flemington will accept it? I have an Amsoil filter and an 18mm rear sway bar but have been thinking catback exhaust. That'd be worth the extra 30 minute drive.
Jim, My 2002 Forester was making the same slight popping/backfire noise yours was. I took it to the dealer and had them check the timing, vacuum hoses, leaks esp. around the exhaust manifold, but they couldn't find anything either. It still does it on some occassions, especially when I'm driving at a leisurely pace.
Here's my take. I know that when hot gasses hit air that leaks into the manifold through either an old gasket or cracks the engine can backfire especially when you take your foot of the gas when shifting or go downhill. This because your engine relaxes and the spent gases are removed slower. This might explain why it happens more often at a slow driving pace rather then when driving aggressive. It could also be caused by unspen fuel igniting in the exhaust or a faulty air flow diverter.
Sigh as for me I'm going to try the dealer once again. I doubt they checked everything I asked. Let me know if yours becomes more frequent.
Has anyone had any experience installing factory add-ons such as key- less entry, alarm, cruise control, or power mirrors? I just bought a '98 Forester L and noticed the parts available on-line and was wondering how hard it is to do these things yourself.
Hey guys, the driver's automatic seatbelt (I hate the damn things) in my 92 legacy just broke. It got stuck halfway up, and then when i gave it some extra "help", it slid back down when i opened the door and a cable that i think pulls the thing fell out and now hangs down out of the door. Does anyone have any idea on how to fix these things? I don't have it all taken apart yet, but it looks like it's pretty easy to get to. My car has been having bad luck lately. Some drunk guys slashed the tires and smashed in the windshield last weekend, now this... poor car, i'll have to wash and clean it to make it feel better. Anyway, any info would be very much appreciated.
I think seatbelts have a lifetime warranty on all cars. The reason I know this is that my 83 Civic's seatbelt started fraying 2 years ago and the Honda dealer (to my surprise) replaced it for free. Check with your dealer
I can't personally speak on mods and Flemington. Just from what a few i-clubbers have posted. The only thing I have is an Amsoil filter. They're a pretty honest bunch though so I don't think there would be a problem. There are some dealers that no matter how small the mod is, they clam you have voided your warranty. I recently had to get a new a/c control light. They told me it would be 45 min. labor, but it ended up taking 90 min. I was only charged 45 min. labor and couldn't believe it. My former dealer would've definately charged the full 90 min. Dennis
Almost the exact same thing happened on my 1994 Legacy about 3-4 months ago. Through this forum I heard about the possibility of a lifetime warranty, so I contacted SoA and here's what they said in response. I have NOT had an opportunity to teake it in yet, so the end of this story has not been written......for what it's worth.....
Dear Mr. Pearson:
Thank you for your e-mail. We do not have a life time warranty on your 1994 Legacy seat belts, however we do review our customer concerns on a case by case basis. I would suggest that you take your vehicle into an Authorized Subaru Dealer for inspection. Please advise me when your vehicle will be there and I will contact the dealership and ask that they contact me after their inspection. Depending on what the dealership finds, we can then determine if we can assist with the repairs. Your case number is: 314827 and I can be reached at 1-800-782-2783.
Sincerely,
Linda Fouch Subaru of America, Inc. Team Leader ----------------------------------------------------------- YOUR ORIGINAL MAIL:
The driver's side seatbelt in the above referenced car is malfunctioning. It will no longer extend or retract to the correct positions after closing the door. I have been told in several chat groups that those type seatbelts are guaranteed for the life of the car. Is that true? Thank you,
Well that helps. Really the Amsoil is all that I have that could be considered a "mod." I will give Flemington a call well before I ever schedule an appointment there (next big one, 30K service, will probably come up around Thanksgiving).
Almost the exact same thing happened on my 1994 Legacy about 3-4 months ago. Through this forum I heard about the possibility of a lifetime warranty, so I contacted SoA and here's what they said in response. I have NOT had an opportunity to take it in yet, so the end of this story has not been written......for what it's worth.....
Dear Jim:
Thank you for your e-mail. We do not have a life time warranty on your 1994 Legacy seat belts, however we do review our customer concerns on a case by case basis. I would suggest that you take your vehicle into an Authorized Subaru Dealer for inspection. Please advise me when your vehicle will be there and I will contact the dealership and ask that they contact me after their inspection. Depending on what the dealership finds, we can then determine if we can assist with the repairs. Your case number is: ###### and I can be reached at 1-800-782-2783.
Sincerely,
Linda Fouch Subaru of America, Inc. Team Leader ----------------------------------------------------------- YOUR ORIGINAL MAIL:
The driver's side seatbelt in the above referenced car is malfunctioning. It will no longer extend or retract to the correct positions after closing the door. I have been told in several chat groups that those type seatbelts are guaranteed for the life of the car. Is that true? Thank you,
Ed: those mods are relatively tame compared to what many folks do. I would not be worried.
reefaroo: keyless should be just simple programming. Cruise I had done by the dealer, so I don't know. The S model has power mirrors, but they are sized differently from the L, so make sure you get the entire assembly, which may not be worth the cost.
Mike: those motorized mice are part of the safety package, so I think a dealer would fix that even after the warranty is up. If they refuse, you could call the NHTSA and perhaps get a recall campaign started.
Thanks for the reinforcement, juice. Still thinking about a catback exhaust one of these days.
I had to check back before I made a comment, but my wife's '91 Accord has those motorized mice; one failed well after the warranty expired and Honda replaced it free of charge.
I just taked to SoA about my broken automatic seatbelt. It's amazing how awesome the customer service is there. They have a pretty cut and dry policy with broken seatbelts: They pay for the parts, but not labor. A dealer has to certify that it is indeed broken first. I got a completely different story from the dealer service dept. at Figgs Subaru in Topeka. They guy there told me that there was no way they could help with the repair cost for my 10 year old car, even if it was an integral part of the safety system. It'll be fun to talk to him again to let him know that my parts will indeed be free, even though my car is 10 years old. I'm planning on putting the thing in myself, because the labor quote the dealer gave me was $120 for a "couple of hours." I'll let you guys know how things go. On a different note, my car and I are both happy today to know that the guys who vandalized my Subie have been arrested and will have to pay for all the damage done to my car, probably around $700.
I live in Manhattan (it's in Kansas, the Little Apple)... the cops here were excellent. Not only did they catch the guys, the also set up infrared surveilance camaras aound our property in case the guys try it again. The only problem is now I know i'm on camara if I happen to pick my nose on my porch or something like that.
See here the guy would pay and since you know who he is, anything further that would happen to your car's he'd just be taken out to the swamps of jersey...
I can only assume that they caught the perps because they were young and remarkably stupid. There's no other miracle way to catch them, unless they dusted for prints and they had prior offenses (again, young and stupid).
Thanks for the links Mike. And thanks for the info Juice. I saw the power mirrors for the L at SubaruParts.com for $159.90 and keyless entry for $161.46. Both pricey for me, but maybe over time. It would be nice to save on the dealer labor of course, and I really like doing things myself as most folks do. I also saw the cruise control somewhere, but I wonder where exactly these things mount on the vehicle? Like the reciever for the keyless, etc.
Mike: glad to hear you were pleased with their customer service folks.
reefaroo: the cruise switch mounts on the steering wheel. If you look on the right side, between the two spokes, there is a cut-out that they remove to install it. Should be easy enough to locate.
It's just a throttle-control device, so I left it up to the pros. Plus, I negotiated a free installation since I wanted it right from the start.
The bigger mirrors would be good if you tow. Just keep that in mind.
-juice
PS I've found that most of the Subaru instructions are lacking. At least they seem to have been written in Japanese and then translated poorly.
Well, Apparently, we need a new coilpack and throttle body for our 97 OBSport... that and a servicing of the transmission. Total for parts & labor: $540.78
Ouch... anybody else had this replacement done? perrito
I'm almost ready to buy a Subaru Impreza wagon. However, I have some issues with various repair 'problems' I've heard from people here and there. Maybe those of you here more knowledgable about Subaru's can help me out with the following issues:
1) I've heard that due to the unconventional design of Subaru's that it costs significantly more than other cars (e.g., honda, toyota, etc...) to maintain and repair.
2) Again due to the unconventional design of Subaru's, if the car breaks down (like all cars eventually do for one reason or another) somewhere outside of a major city, that local non-Subaru specific repair shops would not be able to fix car.
Can I get some thoughts on these issues? Thanks in advance.
considering I have just had a bad experience with my 97 OBS, I'll keep my mouth shut until I calm down a little...
I think the key is living in an area with a good Subaru dealer, or right next to one, as the vehicle ages... it's the same problem a lot of the more rare import labels have: if you're not near a dealer, finding the right part can be problematic. Are the Subies reliable? Yes, although I will never buy a used again... EVER.
I've never had a problem getting parts I needed, and found the prices for some recent collision damage reasonable:
Taillight assembly: $108 Rear bumper cover: $216
If that sounds high, try a Lexus dealer and ask what they would charge. Probably double.
perrito: did the estimate break it down by parts and labor cost? It sounds like major engine work, but you could get parts from a wholesaler like subaruparts.com and knock 20 to 25% off the parts prices.
There are few unconventional things about Subaru that would make them physically difficult to work on. Not having a factory service manual always makes things dodgy though, and they are a small enough vendor that some of the generic manuals hayes, chilton's, etc. that some shops subscribe to (yep, they get annual shipments) may not have Subaru stuff.
But that is all small potatos. The big problem is that as a small Import vendor Subaru does not have the best warehouse supply, and if sometimes things can take a while to come in from Japan. Of course, you could also wait 3 months for a Ford engine from Brazil... But anyway, you also won't find much in the way of 3rd party aftermarket replacement parts-- i.e. forget the autoparts stores for anything but consumables because they won't have it.
Haynes manuals aren't that good anyway. I was doing my Miata's timing and they offered vague references to parts you couldn't find, with photos for models that didn't match mine. If it weren't for Miata.net, I would have given up.
My beef with Subarus? Access can be difficult because the engine bay is crowded. To do a tune-up you probably have to remove the intake and the windshield washer reservoir. Other than that if you have metric sockets it's just like any Mazda.
Then again, I haven't really needed many parts, and when I have wholesalers have been more than helpful.
go work on some transverse motors a bit. yes the plugs are often easier to do than our longitudinal, horizontally opposed layout but everything else is a complete pain in the [non-permissible content removed].
Well, compared to a straight-6 Mustang Ghia, yes. You could stand inside, next to the engine, with that car. Which was convenient given the frequency of service required!
My 1.8l DOHC transversely mounted Escort engine was about the same as the Subie, except the plugs were much easier to get to. That oil filter was in a nasty location and I'd burn myself almost every time - you had to reach up from the bottom, right next to where the exhaust went 4 into 1 (i.e. HOT). You couldn't even SEE the filter from the top.
The Miata is fine except with no ground clearance you need ramps to do everything. Plus the fuel filter is a pain to get to. The oil filter requires a left-handed contorsionist. Other than that, it's easy to service.
So the Subie is about average, no harder to work on than any other car I've owned. Oil changes are actually the easiest, given the ground clearance and the fact that I cut a hole in the bottom cover.
I personally have never had trouble finding wear-and-tear parts, be they at the local Pep Boys or OE stuff via wholesalers.
I don't know where those myths began (early 80's maybe?) but I they haven't applied in my case at all.
One tip is finding a good dealer that has been in business for a few years. I had bad experiences with a dealer that sold Subarus for only a couple of years. I found another dealer that was extremely knowledgable in Subaru repair. I've also used private mechanics (tires, alignment, etc.) on my car (97 OBS) and my wife's (99 OB) and have not had any problems. Although with over 100,000 miles between two Subaru's, I haven't needed any repairs that were not covered by the standard warranty anyway.
I've also used wholesale vendors like juice mentioned and taken the parts to a dealer for installation. I ordered a door trim from subaruparts.com and received it in less than a week. Feel free to ask any more questions.
I find that to be pretty bad. I never bring parts to a mechanic/dealer unless they can't get the parts for me. I just find it to be not a good practice to bring parts, unless the particular shop is a small intimate place where I know them on good terms.
That was my dealer before Flemington. They were so messed up at the time, they didn't know the difference. Plus, subaruparts.com was running a special that I couldn't refuse. :-) Dennis
Bingo. Work with the shop. That's what I did. I found out he was just ordering most parts from a dealership nearby, and paying MSRP (with no margin in it for him).
So I ordered the replacement parts from a wholesaler, and he did the work.
I guess it's all relative. My Forester engine bay is sooooo much easier to get around in compared to my wife's Jetta VR6. Think about a transversely mounted 6-cylinder engine in a car the size of a Civic. With all the plastic cladding around the components, I can barely change my own light bulbs!
In general I don't think that the Subaru costs more for parts and labor than Honda or Toyota. Some things will be cheap, some things will be outrageous. Dealer rates for parts and seem to be pretty comparable.
Subarus are not more mechanically complex and they don't have a smaller engine bay than many other mid-size sedans. Their easier to work on than many american cars because of the engine layout. Most competant mechanics should be able to figure them out without too much difficulty. But you will probably not be able to take advantage of many independant mechanics who are both good and cheap because they specialize on Hondas/Toyotas/whatever.
Also getting parts can be a pain. No 3rd party stuff. For a transmission or engine rebuild your probably stuck at the dealership since those parts have some truley unique properties.
If your really wondering call up your local dealerships telling them you have a Honda/Toyota/Subaru that your thinking about buying, it has this, this and that wrong with it. Find out how much they would charge to fix it. Look at things like: Belts, Hoses, Water Pump, master cylinder, timing belt, alternator, starter motor, heater core, radiator, thermostat, O2 sensor, transmission rebuild. You know the common stuff.
I'm new to this site...bought my Legacy with 43,000 miles 7 years ago. Now has 70,000. 3 years ago starting problems began. Usually after driving 5 - 20 miles, never when I go out in the morning at home. When I turn the key, there is no sound, occasionally I hear the fan. Can lower or raise windows, can play radio. If I wait 15 to 20 minutes it will start. Last Tues. replaced the starter. On Thurs. had a meeting for 45 - 50 minutes. Wouldn't start. Waited 15 min. nothing. After one hour, it started up fine. I was livid. I gave up on the local Subaru dealer last year after $1200 in repairs but no progress on starter problem. Tachometer & gas gauge don't work. Just replaced a speedometer cable since I needed to know my speed. Just did new brakes and then master cylinder. $2200 this year, so far. Any comments? I am at my wits end. Thanks!
In short, car makes a high-pitched whining noise when accelerating over 65 mph. Service mgr. determined it was the transmission after talking with SOA, replaced tranny at no cost to me. Car is 2001 OB AT w/9000 miles. Went on vacation, put over 3000 miles on, car still makes the same noise! Started out making the noise whenever I got above 55 mph then progressed to 65 mph.
Returned from vacation, service mgr. said bring it in since the rep was going to be in. Both drove it, rep said that it was normal engine noise coming from the ?ring and pinion? and/or drive gear. Depending on ones hearing, you may or may not hear it. I reminded the service mgr. that if that is the case then they replaced my original transmission when they didn't need to. They were "positive" it was the trans before, now it's normal engine noise, hmm.
IMO, it may be a design flaw in the trans that Subaru needs to go back to the drawing board on. BTW, I now very little about car mechanics. I've seen this same problem posted earlier on the board, 2 people have emailed me saying they have the same noise, the dealer has even done the same "repair" with another customer six months earlier.
The service mgr. has been very professional, this is a top-rated dealership, but me thinks something is not quite right. What do you think?
There will be more noise than a FWD car, because you have 3 differentials instead of just one. If the dealer and the rep have been helpful, just make sure it's documented (in case it gets any worse) and crank up the tunes.
I hate to tell you that in-law had same whining noise in a Honda and it was indeed the tranny. But noise was there from 5mph on. It went along with the reving of car. Apparently there were two gears that looked the same and when Honda made these things some of the mechanics swapped the gears and you couldn't tell. Honda did replace the tranny even thought it was out of warranty.
I have an 01 OB auto, and so far haven't noticed anything. I have just installed an oil drain valve to make the oil changes that much easier. That is all maintenace I've done yet.
I have spotted the drain valves for the tranny and the forward differential. Also the tranny's filter (which looks like a regular oil filter) QUESTION Where do you fill the tranny fluid and the forward differential?
Someone mentioned here before to change the tranny fluid and the differential fluid at 7500 miles. Anyone think this is a good idea. It should be easy enough. Opinions please.... Thanks
Juice - are you sure about that 1/4"-1/2'" diameter statement? I believe SOA says 1/4" in circumference (not diameter) maximum. A 1/4" in diameter would be significantly more than 1/4" in circumference. On a 25" diameter tire a 1/4' difference in diameter is more like 3/4' difference in circumference.
Comments
-Colin
-mike
Ed
Here's my take. I know that when hot gasses hit air that leaks into the manifold through either an old gasket or cracks the engine can backfire especially when you take your foot of the gas when shifting or go downhill. This because your engine relaxes and the spent gases are removed slower. This might explain why it happens more often at a slow driving pace rather then when driving aggressive. It could also be caused by unspen fuel igniting in the exhaust or a faulty air flow diverter.
Sigh as for me I'm going to try the dealer once again. I doubt they checked everything I asked. Let me know if yours becomes more frequent.
cheerios,
rus
Mike
bit
I recently had to get a new a/c control light. They told me it would be 45 min. labor, but it ended up taking 90 min. I was only charged 45 min. labor and couldn't believe it. My former dealer would've definately charged the full 90 min.
Dennis
Dear Mr. Pearson:
Thank you for your e-mail. We do not have a life time warranty on your 1994 Legacy seat belts, however we do review our customer concerns on a case by case basis. I would suggest that you take your vehicle into an Authorized Subaru Dealer for inspection. Please advise me when your vehicle will be there and I will contact the dealership and ask that they contact me after their inspection. Depending on what the dealership finds, we can then determine if we can assist with the repairs. Your case number is: 314827 and I can be reached at 1-800-782-2783.
Sincerely,
Linda Fouch
Subaru of America, Inc.
Team Leader
-----------------------------------------------------------
YOUR ORIGINAL MAIL:
The driver's side seatbelt in the above referenced car is
malfunctioning. It will no longer extend or retract to the correct
positions after closing the door. I have been told in several chat groups
that those type seatbelts are guaranteed for the life of the car. Is that
true?
Thank you,
Jim Pearson
Ed
Dear Jim:
Thank you for your e-mail. We do not have a life time warranty on your 1994 Legacy seat belts, however we do review our customer concerns on a case by case basis. I would suggest that you take your vehicle into an Authorized Subaru Dealer for inspection. Please advise me when your vehicle will be there and I will contact the dealership and ask that they contact me after their inspection. Depending on what the dealership finds, we can then determine if we can assist with the repairs. Your case number is: ###### and I can be reached at 1-800-782-2783.
Sincerely,
Linda Fouch
Subaru of America, Inc.
Team Leader
-----------------------------------------------------------
YOUR ORIGINAL MAIL:
The driver's side seatbelt in the above referenced car is
malfunctioning. It will no longer extend or retract to the correct
positions after closing the door. I have been told in several chat groups
that those type seatbelts are guaranteed for the life of the car. Is that
true?
Thank you,
Jim
reefaroo: keyless should be just simple programming. Cruise I had done by the dealer, so I don't know. The S model has power mirrors, but they are sized differently from the L, so make sure you get the entire assembly, which may not be worth the cost.
Mike: those motorized mice are part of the safety package, so I think a dealer would fix that even after the warranty is up. If they refuse, you could call the NHTSA and perhaps get a recall campaign started.
-juice
I had to check back before I made a comment, but my wife's '91 Accord has those motorized mice; one failed well after the warranty expired and Honda replaced it free of charge.
Ed
-Mike
-mike
-Mike
bit
-mike
I can only assume that they caught the perps because they were young and remarkably stupid. There's no other miracle way to catch them, unless they dusted for prints and they had prior offenses (again, young and stupid).
-Colin
-reefaroo
reefaroo, Though not for your 98 Forester L, see Legacy and Legacy LSi remote keyless system installation instructions P/N H7110AS400/H7110AS500. ScoobyMods is a good resource (though not Forester-centric).
..Mike
..Mike
reefaroo: the cruise switch mounts on the steering wheel. If you look on the right side, between the two spokes, there is a cut-out that they remove to install it. Should be easy enough to locate.
It's just a throttle-control device, so I left it up to the pros. Plus, I negotiated a free installation since I wanted it right from the start.
The bigger mirrors would be good if you tow. Just keep that in mind.
-juice
PS I've found that most of the Subaru instructions are lacking. At least they seem to have been written in Japanese and then translated poorly.
You can pick your friends,
You can pick your nose,
But you can't pick your friend's nose!
Cheers!
Paul
Apparently, we need a new coilpack and throttle body for our 97 OBSport... that and a servicing of the transmission. Total for parts & labor:
$540.78
Ouch... anybody else had this replacement done?
perrito
I'm almost ready to buy a Subaru Impreza wagon. However, I have some issues with various repair 'problems' I've heard from people here and there. Maybe those of you here more knowledgable about Subaru's can help me out with the following issues:
1) I've heard that due to the unconventional design of Subaru's that it costs significantly more than other cars (e.g., honda, toyota, etc...) to maintain and repair.
2) Again due to the unconventional design of Subaru's, if the car breaks down (like all cars eventually do for one reason or another) somewhere outside of a major city, that local non-Subaru specific repair shops would not be able to fix car.
Can I get some thoughts on these issues? Thanks in advance.
considering I have just had a bad experience with my 97 OBS, I'll keep my mouth shut until I calm down a little...
I think the key is living in an area with a good Subaru dealer, or right next to one, as the vehicle ages... it's the same problem a lot of the more rare import labels have: if you're not near a dealer, finding the right part can be problematic. Are the Subies reliable? Yes, although I will never buy a used again... EVER.
I've never had a problem getting parts I needed, and found the prices for some recent collision damage reasonable:
Taillight assembly: $108
Rear bumper cover: $216
If that sounds high, try a Lexus dealer and ask what they would charge. Probably double.
perrito: did the estimate break it down by parts and labor cost? It sounds like major engine work, but you could get parts from a wholesaler like subaruparts.com and knock 20 to 25% off the parts prices.
-juice
But that is all small potatos. The big problem is that as a small Import vendor Subaru does not have the best warehouse supply, and if sometimes things can take a while to come in from Japan. Of course, you could also wait 3 months for a Ford engine from Brazil... But anyway, you also won't find much in the way of 3rd party aftermarket replacement parts-- i.e. forget the autoparts stores for anything but consumables because they won't have it.
-Colin
-mike
PS: $540 doesn't sound like that bad of a repair for a throttle body, coil pack and tranny service!
My beef with Subarus? Access can be difficult because the engine bay is crowded. To do a tune-up you probably have to remove the intake and the windshield washer reservoir. Other than that if you have metric sockets it's just like any Mazda.
Then again, I haven't really needed many parts, and when I have wholesalers have been more than helpful.
-juice
go work on some transverse motors a bit. yes the plugs are often easier to do than our longitudinal, horizontally opposed layout but everything else is a complete pain in the [non-permissible content removed].
-Colin
My 1.8l DOHC transversely mounted Escort engine was about the same as the Subie, except the plugs were much easier to get to. That oil filter was in a nasty location and I'd burn myself almost every time - you had to reach up from the bottom, right next to where the exhaust went 4 into 1 (i.e. HOT). You couldn't even SEE the filter from the top.
The Miata is fine except with no ground clearance you need ramps to do everything. Plus the fuel filter is a pain to get to. The oil filter requires a left-handed contorsionist. Other than that, it's easy to service.
So the Subie is about average, no harder to work on than any other car I've owned. Oil changes are actually the easiest, given the ground clearance and the fact that I cut a hole in the bottom cover.
I personally have never had trouble finding wear-and-tear parts, be they at the local Pep Boys or OE stuff via wholesalers.
-juice
One tip is finding a good dealer that has been in business for a few years. I had bad experiences with a dealer that sold Subarus for only a couple of years. I found another dealer that was extremely knowledgable in Subaru repair. I've also used private mechanics (tires, alignment, etc.) on my car (97 OBS) and my wife's (99 OB) and have not had any problems. Although with over 100,000 miles between two Subaru's, I haven't needed any repairs that were not covered by the standard warranty anyway.
I've also used wholesale vendors like juice mentioned and taken the parts to a dealer for installation. I ordered a door trim from subaruparts.com and received it in less than a week.
Feel free to ask any more questions.
Dennis
-mike
Dennis
So I ordered the replacement parts from a wholesaler, and he did the work.
-juice
Blue- Yeah the Bell Dealership just sux in general.
-mike
Dennis
I guess it's all relative. My Forester engine bay is sooooo much easier to get around in compared to my wife's Jetta VR6. Think about a transversely mounted 6-cylinder engine in a car the size of a Civic. With all the plastic cladding around the components, I can barely change my own light bulbs!
Ken
-juice
Subarus are not more mechanically complex and they don't have a smaller engine bay than many other mid-size sedans. Their easier to work on than many american cars because of the engine layout. Most competant mechanics should be able to figure them out without too much difficulty. But you will probably not be able to take advantage of many independant mechanics who are both good and cheap because they specialize on Hondas/Toyotas/whatever.
Also getting parts can be a pain. No 3rd party stuff. For a transmission or engine rebuild your probably stuck at the dealership since those parts have some truley unique properties.
If your really wondering call up your local dealerships telling them you have a Honda/Toyota/Subaru that your thinking about buying, it has this, this and that wrong with it. Find out how much they would charge to fix it. Look at things like:
Belts, Hoses, Water Pump, master cylinder, timing belt, alternator, starter motor, heater core, radiator, thermostat, O2 sensor, transmission rebuild. You know the common stuff.
Does anybody know "How to switch Outback Wagon 2001 thermometer from Fahrenheit to Celsius?"
This is an update on my previous messages: http://townhall-talk2.edmunds.com/Web?14@@.ee99568/2214 and
http://townhall-talk2.edmunds.com/Web?14@@.ee99568/2228
In short, car makes a high-pitched whining noise when accelerating over 65 mph. Service mgr. determined it was the transmission after talking with SOA, replaced tranny at no cost to me. Car is 2001 OB AT w/9000 miles. Went on vacation, put over 3000 miles on, car still makes the same noise! Started out making the noise whenever I got above 55 mph then progressed to 65 mph.
Returned from vacation, service mgr. said bring it in since the rep was going to be in. Both drove it, rep said that it was normal engine noise coming from the ?ring and pinion? and/or drive gear. Depending on ones hearing, you may or may not hear it. I reminded the service mgr. that if that is the case then they replaced my original transmission when they didn't need to. They were "positive" it was the trans before, now it's normal engine noise, hmm.
IMO, it may be a design flaw in the trans that Subaru needs to go back to the drawing board on. BTW, I now very little about car mechanics. I've seen this same problem posted earlier on the board, 2 people have emailed me saying they have the same noise, the dealer has even done the same "repair" with another customer six months earlier.
The service mgr. has been very professional, this is a top-rated dealership, but me thinks something is not quite right. What do you think?
Thanks - Paul
-juice
-mike
I hate to tell you that in-law had same whining noise in a Honda and it was indeed the tranny. But noise was there from 5mph on. It went along with the reving of car. Apparently there were two gears that looked the same and when Honda made these things some of the mechanics swapped the gears and you couldn't tell. Honda did replace the tranny even thought it was out of warranty.
I have an 01 OB auto, and so far haven't noticed anything. I have just installed an oil drain valve to make the oil changes that much easier. That is all maintenace I've done yet.
I have spotted the drain valves for the tranny and the forward differential. Also the tranny's filter (which looks like a regular oil filter) QUESTION Where do you fill the tranny fluid and the forward differential?
Someone mentioned here before to change the tranny fluid and the differential fluid at 7500 miles. Anyone think this is a good idea. It should be easy enough. Opinions please.... Thanks
The diameter should be within 1/4", 1/2" maximum.
-juice
bit
-juice