Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions

evilizard

Unless an external transmission filter is a new feature on the O1 (which would be great) I think that WAS the oil filter you were looking at. The transmission filter is completely enclosed inside the transmission pan. The differential filler hole is on the right hand side of the transmission case toward the back of the bay, the transmission on the left (if you were sitting in the car). Look for a little yellow pull stick. You'll know the difference of the two fluids by the look (oil vs a red liquid) and by smell. The differential fluid has a distinct pungent odor to it. Hard to describe but you'll know it when you smell it. Be careful if you go to a quickie-lube place. They sometimes get these two confused and dump gear oil in your transmission.

Can't hurt to change the fluid so soon, not sure its really going to extend the life of the vehical. For the first time you change the fluid I would strongly recommend one of those reverse flush services to get all the particles out since getting at the filter is possibly more trouble than its worth.

originalbitman

Well... you get the point. I see this same misstatement often as it is easy to make. But it could lead to the unsuspecting getting the wrong information.

bit

bluesubie

Suzy, don't just give up on the dealer without a fight.
Call SoA at 1800Subaru3 and start a case. Also let the dealer know you would like to meet with the district service rep. since they can't resolve your problems and you've spent so much money.

Any techies want to chime in?

Anibal, you fill the front diff on the passenger side of the engine. It's tucked away, but you should be able to find the yellow dipstick. Check the manual for illustrations. I think the manual calls for changes at 30,000 for severe driving. IMO 7500 is overkill unless you just want to switch to a synthetic.

Dennis

anibalb

Folks,

Thanks. But, do you mean to tell me that I fill the fluids through the same place where the dip sticks are? Meaning take out the dip stick and put a funnel there and fill? I think that is what you mean. Does anyone use synthetic stuff on the differential or tranny? I haven't checked but I presume the differentials will take gear lube (80-90) and the tranny takes ATF since someone mentioned it was red. My 90 accord was manual and it used regular 10-40 on the gear box.

Now, for the tranny filter. I would not confuse the oil filter with tranny filter. Get under the car, as I did. Next to the Tranny pan. there is a filter mounted sideways. Looks just like a small oil filter. Anyone see this. Mine is black. I jacked up my OB to install the oil drain valve and looked around. It is there for sure. Unless I have a special OB, which I know it is anyways......

evilizard

So it does have External filter for tranny, thats great! Wonder if my VDC has that (Wife won't let me poke around like I want to).

Yup you fill them through the check holes. Funnels are an good idea. Nothing like having gear oil drip onto your hot exaust pipes for a good smell while driving.

Check your owners manual for the type of oil you use. On my 96 it was GL-5 but that might have changed as well. I use sythetic and it works fine.

hciaffa

Yes the auto cranny has a separate external oil filter. They have been on the auto cranny for the Forester since 99 and I guess its used across the line for the engine size in other Subaru models. I have been using synthetics for some time now. In the differentials and in the engine. As for the cranny I drained it cold and refilled it with synthetic transmission fluid as well. With a new filter, which right now only subie dealers carry at about 35-40 dollars. As for draining the cranny I had gone to several Subaru dealers and a couple of independent transmission places to find out about draining the torque converter. They said you couldn't unless you took the cranny apart. Best way to do it is on a cold cranny when most of the fluid had be settled to the pan and then drain it. Refill to spec then if your really ambitious drain it again in month to get more of the non synthetic fluid out.

paisan

On my trooper the diameter was 1/2" different on one tire, (same size tire mind you) and that was causing my whine. I think anything greater than a 1/4" diameter difference will cause this.

-mike

originalbitman

To quote SOA:

On All-Wheel Drive (AWD) vehicles, it is extremely important that the rolling or outer circumferences of the tires be within 1/4 inch of each other. This means that you must physically measure the size of the tire. This is best done with the weight of the vehicle off the tire and at the tread centerline. Also be certain that the tires are properly inflated since this can affect your readings.

If you need to replace just one tire, the same holds true. The measured difference in circumference between the replacement tire and the other tires on the vehicle cannot exceed 1/4 inch.
Depending on the vehicle mileage, it might be better to replace all four tires.
If the vehicle mileage is low and the tires have been rotated and driven at the proper inflation pressures, then you may be within the allowable 1/4-inch difference in circumference.

If the difference between the new/replacement tire and the current tires is within this 1/4-nch maximum, then the tire should be compatible. If it is not, then other tires will need to be replaced to conform to the 1/4-inch rule.

Exceeding this 1/4-inch difference in tire circumference can place unnecessary wear on drivetrain components, possibly causing them to wear out prematurely.

paisan

1/4" circumfrence is less than 1/4" diameter IIRC. That would make them even closer to each other.

-mike

kens

Don't know about the AT tranny drain plug, but you need a serious breaker bar to undo the ones on the MTs. I couldn't manage it with a simple ratchet + 1/2" drive. The plugs also are sealed using some kind of sealant.

Ken

ateixeira

Circumference is 2*PI*R. Diameter is 2*R, so the circumference PI*D, or a little over triple the diameter.

So measure the circumference, as bit suggested, or you could still be out of spec.

-juice

bluesubie

The manual calls for 75W90 and I switched to synthetic on my 5-speed. You can change all of your ATF by going to a garage that uses a pump. They claim that "nearly 100%" is drained and it's usually ~US$60-$80. If you just drain the ATF yourself, about 4-5 quarts remain in the TC, IIRC. The front diff on my car was easy, the rear diff was impossible and I even tried using a hammer on the ratchet. Yeah, there's sealant on it like Ken mentioned.

Dennis

originalbitman

Dennis - Which syn are you using?

bit

bluesubie

Amsoil's standard Synthetic Gear Lube.

http://www.amsoil.com/products/gearlubes/index.htm

Dennis

ateixeira

I could have sworn you'd say Redline. Don't ask me why.

I put Mobil 1 in the Miata, but the Forester is still stock. Haven't tried to break that seal yet, and I'm not sure I even have a 1/2" socket.

-juice

bluesubie

I was about to get Redline. There were so many posts on the i-club about people having grinding problems with the 75W90NS. Redline advised mixing the 75W140NS. I went to a local performance shop but they didn't have the 140. The next week I went to an i-club meet and one of the guys was an Amsoil salesman and he gave me a great deal. I think I paid the same price as a conventional oil.

I bought an socket adapter to try get into the rear diff. I'm due for a 60,000 service soon so I'll have them crack it open. :-)

Dennis

ateixeira

You need leverage. Try putting the rear tires up on Rhino ramps, and then get a cheater bar on a long-shaft torque wrench.

It may be hard to make that kind of space, though. I wonder if a heat gun would melt the epoxy that's sealing it.

Amsoil salesman? Good find.

-juice

bluesubie

Didn't try the rears up on the ramps. Probably would've helped.
Dennis

subearu

A member of our church is an Amsoil salesman. Always parks his Amsoil van (complete with ALL the logos) at a very visible corner of the parking lot - for free advertising.

-Brian

evilizard

That rear diff is a pain. A heat gun isn't going to do you any good on that epoxy sealant. The case would transfer the heat away long before it got to a useful temp. Nothing for it but pure brute strength/leverage. It's not easy.

Don't forget your steel pick to pick the expoy off the threads (in the case and on the bolt).

anibalb

Folks,

Use an impact wrench! Just don't use it to tighten it. If you don't have one use the old trick. Breaker bar and a small sledge hammer. Always does it. Tap the breaker bar with hammer with more force each time to get just enough to crack the seal. Hold the bar with one hand in the direction you are hitting it. Avoid the jerking back and forth of the bar. That should do it.

At what mileage do you guys advise to switch over to synthetics? I may just stay with the conventional oils and change it a little more frequently.

jres

Harbor freight sells 1/2" 25" long breaker bars for $12, if you need to pick one up.

http://www.harborfreight.com

kens

What kind of sealant would you use to close up the drain plug? Patti?

Also, if you put your vehicle up on ramps, you'll probably need to push it off the ramps at some point to let all of the oil drain. The drain bolt faces towards the rear of the vehicle.

Ken

ateixeira

I think the catch is having enough room to work. Even with Rhino ramps, you have limited clearance. Shops have lifts that give tons of room for leverage.

Ken: my secret is my driveway is angled. So I put the ramps on the lower wheels, and they end up about level, with room to get underneath.

Funny thing is, I actually had to jack up the rear even more (at the diffy) to add gear oil because the fill hole is supposed to be perfectly level when you add oil.

-juice

locke2c

Good choice on the AMSOil gear oil-- I've seen no complaints about grinding with that. I'd avoid Redline in any Subaru, not sure what the deal is. (Too slippery would be my guess, even with the no slip.)

-Colin

mrdetailer

Transmission: I just switched my manual transmission fluid to synthetic, and added Lubegard. My 2'nd and 4'th gears weren't meshing very well. A dowshift from fifth gear often ground. Switching fluids really improved the gear performanace. While not completely gone, the gears slip in when shifting normally, and only click on a fast shift. In retrospect, I think if I would have immediately replaced the fluid with syn I might have avoided the current transmission degradation. So many cars have transmission issues that are caused by the conventional overheating that I probably won't use standard tranny oils again, and will be migrating every car to synthetic.

Motor oil is different. I have 3 vehicles. My Subie uses Syn, and the motor is quieter, seems to have a little more energy, saves a little bit on gas mileage over previous performances, burns 66% less oil, and goes twice as long between changes if you replace the filter in between. It really works well in this car.

If your Subaru is new and you want to keep the motor clean, smooth, and with less wear immediately change to synthetic, but maintain the intervals recommended under the warranty. I would also use a premium filter such as Fram X2, or MobileOne with synthetic fibers. They have an interesting combination of a finer filtration capacity, and the ability to hold more particles.

My other cars use a blend changed every 3-4000K depending on usage, and a premium paper filter such as PureOne or WIX (Napa Gold), one has over 170,000 miles and is still going strong. I don't believe in even 5,000 miles on conventional oil since burning up an engine years ago.

locke2c

quote: I don't believe in even 5,000 miles on conventional oil since burning up an engine years ago.

While I'm sure it's a long story and possibly not relevant here, I bet there is a better reason behind the engine failure than conventional oil being slightly over 5,000 miles old.

-Colin

ateixeira

If that were the case, millions of vehicles would blow their engines every year. New european makes can have intervals of 10000 or even longer.

Dino oils have ran in fleets for decades, and typical engine life is 250k miles. Usually it's other parts that fail (starter, water pump, etc.), not the engine itself.

I'm not saying synthetic doesn't have advantages. It's just overkill for some applications.

-juice

anibalb

It seems everyone really likes the synthetic stuff. The fact that you don't have to do oil changes so frequently makes it a plus too. On conventional oils I do an oil change every 3K and that seems to keep the engine just fine. I do worry about the transmission and differentials.

I presume then that they make a synthetic ATF for auto's. But, someone mentioned that you needed to go to a place where they vacummed the fluid out so that none remains in the (torque converter ??) So I am not sure if it is a good idea to mix the ATF with the synthetic stuff.

I suppose the differentials are easy. Another question, when I log on to "MySubaru" the car manual online is not complete. It is only 24 pages. Is this right? Thanks for all the feedback.

bluesubie

So I clearly need the following the next time I try to remove the rear diff drain plug:
Breaker Bar
Elbow Grease :-)

Dennis

ateixeira

By default, someone who pays the 300-800% difference in price for synthetic is going to be convinced that it is worth it.

Mind you, I put Mobil 1 gear oil in my Miata's tranny and diffy. Why? Well, they carry a much longer maintenance interval, plus I drive it harder than I do any other car I own. But mostly, it was because you can actually "feel" the difference with a gear box.

-juice

bluesubie

Yes, most brands that offer syn gear oils have a syn ATF. You can probably mix them, but you wouldn't get the full benefit of the synthetic IMO.

Here is a picture of a Transmission Fluid Exchanger:

http://www.ntxtools.com/transmission/soltt200.htm

Dennis

ateixeira

Cool. I love trick tools.

-juice

originalbitman

I can't get in right now but I did download the manual for my 2001 Legacy and Outback and that version is the complete piece.

bit

anibalb

That looks like a neat tool. Sounds promising. The best I can do is drain the tranny while it is cold and has sat over night. I am sure some of it will still stay in there.

From these posts I gather that the best syn stuff is Amsoil. And for the engine it seems a lot of people like Mobil 1.

Sounds good. Will look into this stuff at my next Subie self service. Thanks for the feedback.

originalbitman

Guess I need to unload my Redline and get Amsoil. I bought the Redline for my 00 since it was already over 10K miles. I did read the posts on i-Club but there are some folks having good results with Redline. I also spoke with a Redline tech and he convinced me (naturally). But after reading this and I think I won't take the chance and insead to Amsoil in my 01. Anyone want a good deal on some unopened Redline?

bit

ateixeira

I'd buy it for the Miata, except I just finished the job.

-juice

locke2c

That's a good idea, Bit... I know Redline makes good stuff and their 75w90NS works fine in other synchro trannies but not Subaru for whatever reason.

-Colin

originalbitman

Maybe I'll try it in the 1600. My stude pickup might not like it as I don't think first has a syncro.

bit

ateixeira

1600?

-juice

originalbitman

1970 Datsun roadster. It's my wife's toy when she is not driving her 92 Civic si.

bit

kens

So, it seems like Amsoil might be the better choice. Which Amsoil gear lube is best for our trannies? The Series 2000?

One quick question on oil changes -- is there a quick and easy way to check if your oil contaminant level is low enough without submiting a sample? Just wondering how people who use synthetics make that call.

Ken

ateixeira

That's what I was going to guess, actually.

Those things weight, what, 1600 pounds? They make my Miata look heavy!

-juice

nygreg

if I go to my dealer and ask them to change my auto tranny and diffs to synthetic what will their response be?? Will they have synth. to do it with and what brand? I can do it myself, but if time doesn't permit it....

FWIW - They are using Havoline oil at my dealer (if you believe the little sticker they put on the windshield). I will eventually go to Mobil 1 anyway.

Greg

ateixeira

I'd call and ask. They may not have it in stock. If you supply the synthetic, I'd ask to watch them put it in.

-juice

armac13

I have had my dealer "change" the ATF twice. The fluid is now about 75% synthetic (Castrol Syntec). The first time they didn't have any and bought it retail. The second time I provided my own. I think the shifts are smoother than prior to change.

Ross

nygreg

Thank you. I will ask if they can change all the fluid and supply my own. I'm assuming that using Mobil 1, Castrol Syntec or Amsoil is the way to go for ATF and Diff changes.

Greg

originalbitman

1030KG. Fun to drive. I sneak it out during the day but the neighbors rat on me. It is stock never been restored. Paint is crappy, top is shot and dash is erupting but mechanically it is pretty solid.

bit

originalbitman

I think Havoline is what comes in Soobs from the factory .

bit

ateixeira

That's heavier than I thought. I guess I'm thinking of roadsters from an ever earlier era.

Just drive it an enjoy it. Who cares what the neighbors think.

-juice