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Comments
-juice
Then after the initial torque on go back and check em.
Len
Have not had a chance to look underneath my Forester (maybe weekend) but based on your description of multiple bolts (sideskirts and chassis) and the bracket welded to the tube would you say this is a do-it-yourselver or something to leave to someone else (dealer, other shop)?
Thanks for your help.
For those folks who occasionally post here asking whether the Subaru's Gold Plus extended warranty is worth it, I'd have to say the jury is still out on that for me. It did come very much in handy this time, but this is the only repair I've had under it.
A short aside: I would have gotten the premium package, but two things really, really tease me about it: one, the color choices are much blander (I got the blue in the end); two, those gold-trim wheels are absolutely hideous looking. No way I'd get those things unless they gave me enough money for aftermarket wheels AND some extra for my troubles. It's too bad, too, because I really, really wanted the moonroof and the side-airbags, and the extra cost wasn't really a huge issue. Just those tacky wheels....
Anyway, straight when I got it (and even while test-driving another Forester) I heard this sort of turbine sound, like a muted jet-engine, when moving up to highway speeds (starts around 50mph). It's volume peaks at about 2000 rpm (I have an automatic) and then slowly fades lower after that.
Honestly, I love the sound, but I've never heard an engine (Well, probably not the engine. Maybe drive train or engine vibration?) sound like that before. Since it sounded like that new and since my test-drive Forester sounded like that as well, I just figured it was an idiosyncrasy of the Forester. Also, the Edmunds (I think) review of the Forester describes the engine sound as a "symphonic shriek", which is just about what I'd call it.
However, a friend has got me a little frazzled, insisting that that sound could not possibly be normal and that it might be a faulty differential. Now, I can see how that might be possible, but I'm now approaching 15,000 miles on this car (a new car), through two service checks, and I've heard this since day one, yet have had absolutely no problems, either with performance, handling, the transmission, AWD, nothing. And certainly nothing that would lead me to believe my differential is faulty. (Well, I did have one problem: the stupid loose-gas-cap check-engine light. Good thing I read the manual.)
So, I ask you: is this sound normal? Is my friend simply paranoid? Should I tell the dealer to check it out?
And to be honest, if this sound were abnormal, and it were fixed and removed, I _would_ miss it.
Cheers,
-wdb
Something I would be very interested in is to look at the actual repair invoice and see how much the repairs really cost.
I took my 96 in to Austin Subaru for a electrical issue. Initially it was going to cost $240+ until they found out I was under warranty, then it dropped to $80. Course I had a $100 deducatable and paid hundreds for the warranty so even if I had been ripped off I still would have come out behind.
For the Guy having the turbine sound -
Is it speed or RPM related. Can you get the sound by reving the engine and is it still there if you are going 60 and take your foot off the gas?
I received a recall on my 00 OB to have the oxygen sensor replaced (Service Program WXW-80) about a week ago. Brought it to the dealer on Thursday just to have it replaced.
When the service advisor asked "is there anything else", it prompted me to mention a groaning noise that sometimes happens when turning the wheels sharp. I had not paid much attention to it since it only occurred a couple of times. So I never had the intention of raising it with the dealership on Thurs until prompted.
Guess what? They checked...they heard....they ordered.....a whole new rack and pinion assembly!!!! No charge of course...still under warranty. Still not sure what it is causing it other than the mechanic indicated it sounds like a worn out part would. I don't drive hard, or over rough terrain, and only have 21 K KM on it to boot! Just one of those things I guess. Luckily, I have excellent service at my dealership, at least compared to my previous dealership experiences. Moral: always have anything out of the ordinary checked by the dealership...especially if you're still under warranty since there is no cost to do so.
Then, driving home last night on an unlit road, I noticed that my headlights dimmed slightly when I pulled up on the power window buttons to ensure both passenger and driver windows were closed. They were, but the action of pulling up on the buttons caused a bit of a drain in power, enough to notice a small dimming of the headlights. Is this normal?
Any help appreciated.
Rack & Pinion -- Wow, that's a great dealer you have there. Did the R&R get rid of the noise?
Light dimming -- is normal. I'm going to guess you pull into your driveway slowly so the engine isn't working very hard. Consequently, your alternator isn't going to be able to meet the added load of two window motors and the headlights dim slightly.
Ken
raising the power windows in the 3 cars I have owned with pw has always caused the lights to dim somewhat. This includes my 2000 OB. They draw a fair amt of current. Not sure of the fuse size in the OB but my Camry has a 30 amp fuse for the pw circuit.
Vince
-mike
I'm pretty sure the timing belt should be okay (105K replacement on the SOA schedule) but I wasn't 100% sure about the drivebelts. Anyone know when the suggested replacement interval is for this?
Ken
DO have them inspect the timing belt though. When it comes time to replace it, you also will want them to do it because the DOHC timing belt swap isn't fun even if you have the factory tool to lock the cams together. Everything is (obviously) quite accessible though, so this shouldn't be anywhere near as expensive as timing belt swaps on some cars with transverse mounted motors...
-Colin
Thanks for the advice. I will have them inspect the timing belt. If it's okay I'm planning on replacing it at 90K.
The service manager I spoke to mentioned that when they replace the timing belt, they'll also need to replace the drivebelts to gain access. Any truth in this?
For my mechanically-uninclined self, is there some website that shows how to replace drivebelts?
Ken
http://www.parttrackers.com/library/1/93/106/
http://www.parttrackers.com/library/1/93/107/
Still haven't found something on drivebelts, however.
Ken
look on the iClub --homepage, not forum-- for modifications and assuming it's still there look at Alex's instructions for the underdrive pulley install. Do exactly that, except you don't remove the crank pulley.
Easy as cake. If it's not there I can easily document it for ya.
-Colin
As for the timing belt, our dealer charges $180 to replace it. Their labor rate is low ($60 per hour), compared to some I have heard about, so I guess it is not that easy a job. However, it is a lot easier and cheaper than an engine rebuild.
Still, I wish that Subaru would be more consistent about the belt replacement recommendation. (See my earlier post that included their reply to my question about it.)
Thanks again, guys. The i-club did have good photos showing the whole process so I think I'm good.
FYI, the dealer (Santa Cruz Subaru) wanted $75 and $160 for the drivebelt and timing belt R&R, respectively.
Ken
I like it too, which only makes me more relieved that I don't have to take pains to get rid of it.
Saabs have that sound as well? Hmm...
I haven't really done business with Austin Subaru, mainly because when I've gotten quotes from both Gillman and Austin Subaru, Gillman's estimates have been pretty consistently lower (I guess Austin Subaru might be charging a bit of a premium just because they're also an Infiniti dealership). Also, I live down southeast, so Gillman is just a bit closer and handier for me.
For the 2.5 4
Part # 15208AA060 Oil Filter $5.98 list $4.31SubaruParts.com price
Part #11126AA000 Gasket (crush washer)$0.52 list $0.31 SubaruParts.com price
bit
Thanks in advance,
Ron
bit
-Brian
A part number isn't needed on subaruparts.com.
Just click on accessories and then click on search.
Dennis
bit
-Brian
Can you get touch-up paint for the plastic panels and bumpers? or is there a better what to touch up the plastic?
As many probably guessed already - first door ding this weekend. It removed a small hunk of paint from the plastic on the passenger side door.
--jay
Patti
The side cladding is painted for appearance. My guess is that it would probably add significant cost if Subaru had to stock both black and colored side cladding. Actually, I believe other manufacturers also paint on top of plain black plastic for similar cladding.
Your dealer should have touchup paint that matches the cladding. Apply it just like you would for any paint.
FYI, I've found that my painted lower cladding is actually more resilient to scratches/dents than the regular paint up top!
Ken
Although the nice thing about the Vehicross is that all the lower body panels are plasticish material that is a solid color, so no matter how many scratches people get, it doesn't show
-mike
-mike
Thanks for the info on the dimming headlights. I'll post once my rack and pinion is replaced...have to call the dealer later this week to ensure parts have arrived.
However if you just want the short version:
It's bad.
Detonation is a violent explosion of the fuel mix instead of the normal controlled (although fast) burn. This results in very high cylinder pressures which can melt things in the combustion chamber-- piston tops, valves, etc. and also can stretch, bend or break connecting rods, as well as prematurely fatigue (to the point of failure) connecting rod bearings and wristpins.
Pre-ignition is a fairly normal flame front (not explosion) but it is initiated by something hot in the combustion chamber instead of the sparkplug. Say a glowing bit of the exhaust valve or piston crown. Anyway, this early and uncontrolled ignition timing can lead to detonation but it's not the same clinically speaking. Pre-ignition is a low-pressure event unlike detonation.
Without going into a long(er) discussion about load and RPM, let me just say that if you hear pinging your first move is to decrease throttle input and if possible decrease load. In a manual transmission car you can accomplish this by downshifting, with an automatic it better do it for you although you can intervene if necessary.
Just because we all have Subarus does not mean we all need the same octane for peak, detonation-free performance. Same model cars can vary quite a bit depending on mileage, manufacturing tolerances, and driving conditions (weather, terrain, vehicle weight, etc.). If you've heard detonation and you've tried higher octane, then you either reduce throttle input and be happy OR you hope that the service tech can figure out what is wrong with your car.
Hope this helps. Heck, I hope someone read this far and it all makes sense considering I almost never proofread.
-Colin
I agree, if an engine designed for regular, with a knock sensor, using premium fuel, pings, something's wrong.
Regards,
Frank
I'm just fishing though, I don't know what the two flashes mean for sure. aren't the 3, 4, 5 flashes to tell you what tripped an alarm?
-Colin
From day one the car has vibrated everytime I stop at a light or stop sign.
I can feel it in the mostly through the accelerator, then autoshifter and steering wheel.
I was told it would go away after the car broke in. Still vibrated at 24K KM. At 48K I had the major tune up, the car was in perfect tune according to the computer and it never vibrated so bad. Then they told me to use premium fuel. I told them I already was.
I'm now at 72K but the 20 other warrantee problems (actually over 20 according to Subaru Canada customer service)I had with the car has distracted me from the vibration. Now that they are out of the way I can resume my focus on this problem.
I would appreciate if anyone else could let me know if they've had this problem and how they solved it.
Thanks
'Valet mode
When you choose the valet mode, the security system does not operate. In valet mode, the remote transmitter is used only for locking and
unlocking the doors (and rear gate) and panic activation. To enter the valet mode, open the driver's door and keep the "UNLOCK/DISARM" button depressed for more than two seconds. The indicator light repeatedly flashes two times while the system is in valet mode. To exit valet mode, open the driver's door and keep the "UNLOCK/DISARM" button pressed for more than two seconds. The indicator will stop flashing.'
Regards,
Frank
As much as I hate to bring up pinging again - well, I must. Is pinging a jingling sort of noise almost sounds belt-related? The noise either disappears or is much lower with premium fuel (summer only). It doesn't sound like an explosion so I wasn't sure.
This is pretty minor compared to some of the vibes I get from other 4 bangers. My wife's old accord had a visibly vibrating steering wheel at idle. My friends 85 BMW 7 series also has some serious shimmy and its a 6 banger.
My VDC on the other hand doesn't seem to have this, But its new and is a 6 cylinder with extra damping.
I guess its really a matter of degree as to if it is a problem or not. Course with all the other woe that you have had with that car I'd ditch it and not worry too much about it (if you have the $$$).
Ron