Help!! We bought a brand new Subaru Outback (4 cyl) on Saturday the 28th. We test drove the one we purchased and it ran great. We drove it home and it ran amazing. On Sunday, however, it stalled 5 times as we came to stops in traffic or at a light.
It seemed to have trouble going from low speed to no speed. The car jerked, lurched, etc. until stopped and then just stalled with all the warning lights coming on. We simply restarted the engine and it was (temporarily) fine. The problem was not consistent and happened only once every 5 or six stops.
Then, after about 2 hours of not driving, it went away. I drove it to the dealer this morning (Monday) and they are looking at it.
Is there anyone here in this group who can reassure a new owner (first time Subaru owner) that this problem may be minor and that this car is still worth the money we spent for reliability?
You can imagine my disappointment in not having a brand new car last even 24 hours.
Here's a very generalized statement but having been a a Subaru owner and member of this list for over a year I think it sums things up:
Some Subarus have problems at purchase. Most of those problems are minor and range from a rattle or squeak to a bad oxygen sensor and in some cases a bad ECU (computer). Those problems are usually diagnosed and fixed relatively quickly. Many of the owners on this list have experienced no problems whatsoever. I would bet your problem relates to something like an oxygen sensor or ECU issue and your dealer will take care of you.
Chances are great your OB will be fine and you will again think it is amazing.
I had a similar problem to that (stalling at lo speeds) when I had inavertenly pulled off one of the vaccum hoses while changing an air filter. Re-attached the hose and there were no problems. None of the associated warning lights but then that was a 96.
A buddy of mine did the same thing when he worked on his intake. Check to make sure all the hoses are snug. If there is a leak you'll probably get a check engine light and the engine will shut off (blame OBD2 for that).
Thanks for the help. So far the dealer is saying it's bad gas. Sounds possible. The car was in and out of the showroom and had 119 miles on it so it may have been sitting around for a while.
So, is this explanation reliable? And is there anything inherent in the Outback that I need to be aware of regarding condensation or moisture affecting my gas.
Thanks so much for the help, I am becoming more at ease just listening to all of you.
The dealer probably searched for codes from the EDU and found a series of misfires. So I guess that could be to blame, but then did they drain it and refill the entire tank?
I've found that the good old "Bad Gas" is the first line of explaination. There is a problem, we looked on the computer and don't know what caused it so lets say bad gas and see if it comes back.
Its rather possible. To confrim you merely need to fill it up and burn off a tank tonight. As if you needed an excuse to drive it more.
I wouldn't worry too much about it. It very well may have been moisture in the gas tank.
I was amazed recently how much of a difference a set of new tires makes. I have a 2000 Outback Ltd. Sedan which came with Firestone Wilderness tires. From Day One when I picked up the car, it always pulled to the left regardless of whether I was braking or accelerating or cruising. I rotated the tires and had them rebalanced, but it didn't help. On top of that, there was a lot of steering wheel shake over 60 mph. I figured that it was an alignment problem or a problem with the wheels.
Several weeks ago, I was on the NHTSA web site and looked up 2000 Subaru Legacy (for some reason they don't have Outback listed for that MY). There were several owners who complained of tread seperations on regular Firestone Wilderness tires (not the AT model). Now I know that tread seperation can be caused by reasons besides the tires being defective, but after seeing about 6 or 7 of them from different people, I started to wonder.
Anyway, my car had about 17500 miles on it and I hated to spring for new tires when there was a lot of life left in the originals, but I did it anyway. I wound up getting BF Goodrich Touring T/A H4's (about $400 installed). I can't even begin to tell you how different the car is with these tires. It no longer pulls to the left. When I drive at speeds over 60 mph, there is no longer any wheel shake. The ride is greatly improved and so is the handling. The jury is still out on the snow handling however. But regardless, I can't believe what a difference.
Anyone else experience similar problems with the Firestone Wildness tires???
My dealer wants almost $40 for a spin-on transmission oil filter that looks just like an engine oil filter worth about $5. Is there a source available in Canada other than a Subaru dealer for these filters? I have tried several parts jobbers and a hydaulics supplier, but no luck.
Jon, I agree with you regarding the new tires. I purchased the exact same BFG's for my wife's Saturn and couldn't believe the difference they made over the stock Firehawks. I too have a 2000 OB and have wondered if the H4's came in "our" size. I'm glad to hear they do. Ron
I saw a Forester on the dealer's lot that had them on. I didn't look underneath, but I remember that there were screws or bolts going through the lower body panels just below the doors. It looked really cheesy. I stepped on one to see how it felt. I remember being surprised at how solid it seemed for how flimsy it looked.
I'm not sure how much SOA charges, but you might be interested in some tougher bars and if you are in the NY area, you could get matt from independent4x.com to make some rockerbars/side steps for you. Nice guy, and great prices.
I am considering a 3,500 - 4,200 mile trip with my 01 OB LTD (auto transmission) with 10,000 on the odometer. Is there any concern if I wait till my return home to change out the oil at my regular dealer? The oil has been changed already at 2,600 , 5,200 , 7,800 miles and will be changed prior to departure at 10,000 miles. I normally like to change the oil at 3,000 to 3,500 mile intervals but this trip has the potential to extend that interval to 4,200 miles. From the warranty book it looks like I can go 7,500 miles between oil changes.
Additionally, I have not rotated the tires at 7,500 miles. Should it be done prior to the trip?
I really think the days of the 3k Oil change are over (however I am sure others disagree). Subaru calls for 7500 and almost everyone thinks that "highway miles" are better than "city miles". Consumer Reports did a study in which some NY City Cabs had their oil changed every 3k, and others went to 6k. After 100k+ miles they tore the engines apart and there was no difference in wear. The Tires you might want to rotate. I didn't rotate them in my Legacy assuming that the AWD would make them wear about the same (OK so I was wrong). Since it is AWD it is better to replace them all at once, you you will want to keep them rotated.
I do my Oil every 5k (about 6 months for me) and the tires every 10k
Of course they don't tell you that cabs are based on old V8 workhorse technology, and they are not high revving engines. I woudn't use that as a benchmark. With that said, 3-5K on Dino IMHO is not a problem. I do 6-7500K on my cars, running synthetic, but I push them hard, almost all the time.
but I really think the 3k oil change is because that what the car manufacturers used to recommend, and the Oil changing guys aren't going to tell you to change it less frequently. When I say "Subaru says 7,500 miles they ought to know", the retort is that "Subaru is selling cars". I've been doing 5k for years and never had a problem (but this still is only one persons experience), but you are right that the blanket 3k recommendation or any blanket recommendation for engines in general must be wrong by it's very nature.
Many new cars now have indicator lights indicating when an oil change is needed. I believe they work by detecting how a light beam scatters when it hits the oil. Probably detects the level of cloudiness. A BMW owner (V8) told me the light comes on every 8 to 9000 miles. An Alero owner (4 cyl) told me the light comes on around 7 to 8000 miles. Not sure if the difference is due to the size of the engine or driving conditions. Also, V8 Bimmer holds 8 qts of oil. Vince
Side Undergaurd Bars -- Friend of mine has it on his Forester and it's attached by just two bolts that go into the side skirts. I believe you need to do some drilling to install them.
Oil Change -- I wouldn't worry about going to 4,200 miles, especially if it involves lots of highway driving.
Without having to scan all 2,000+ entries, can anyone give me the E-Mail address of the dealership that offers great prices and free shipping on their accessories. I just purchased my 7th subaru--a new 02 Forester. Thanks for the help.
great prices AND free shipping? doesn't exist, don't bother looking.
Troncalli Subaru, Irvine Subaru and subaruparts.com (Titus Subaru) are who I work with now and preferred in that order because of speed, reliability, customer service and price. (in that order. they're all pretty close on price, which is WAAAAY better than my local stealership.)
Yeah, I think Darlene is still out of commission but she did offer great prices and free shipping. I have used SubaruParts.com with great success but you do need the part number to order. I also have had great luck with LibertySubaru.com where I got an OEM wheel that listed for $230 for $159. Both charge for shipping.
Yes, the sideguard bars are mounted with 2 bolts into the side skirts, and 2 bolts up underneath the chassis. Both bolts go thru a bracket on each end that is welded to the tube.
BTW they are sturdy as I (~180lbs) stand on them often when washing/waxing the roof
the Pentagon some years back did a study of a large number of road vehicles to see what different oil change intervals did , the usual 3K vs something a lot higher I forget what but amy have been 6K or more. There was no difference in breakdown rates, condition of the engines etc. The only reason in my view to do it at 3K or even 5k is so someone is looking at the underneath of your car to discover other things like cracked cv boots, early oil leaks etc. Otherwise its all an exercise in burning Iraqi oil.
looking at the underneath of your car to discover other things like cracked cv boots, early oil leaks etc.
Dennis, I concur. When asked why I bother changing oil myself, that is my answer. Last time I checked, fluids drip down -- a topside inspection is important but getting below deck is a great place to check for minor issues before they become major problems.
I pardon my laziness if this was covered in past posts, but I do not have the time to do a thorough search...
At 6000 miles, I have noticed on occasion -- a slight hesitiation upon acceleration from a standing start (from a stop sign). I have a '01 OBW.
I plan on my third oil change and first tire rotation at 7K at the dealer, but since I normally have this done during their evening hours, I was not certain I could expect a thorough dianosis at that time. As a result, I would like to have some more knowledge BEFORE I go to the dealer.
Questions:
- has anyone else noticed the same? - what corrective action was done to eliminate the situation?
I have noticed the same. I've blamed it on the AC since its been so hot for the last 3 weeks here in Wisconsin. I also have 01 OBW with about 5400 miles. My solution has been to push harder on the gas
The one thing I just thought of is the gas. The current tank was a complete fill-up (15 gallons) from a station I seldom use. I would guess that is the 'solution' the dealership will give too based on previous posting on other problems.
The Pentagon is now doing oil studies? Your tax dollars at work!
I don't think the US buys Iraqi oil, though the Japanese do. Hmm, not sure that oil makes its way into Subies. IIRC Havoline is in the engines at delivery.
Jack: maybe the side bars affect the sensors that trigger the side bags? I though they used accelerometers, so this wouldn't be an issue, but that may be why.
Specific to the tire rotation you may want to remind the service advisor to make sure the mechanic properly torques the lug nuts. There have been several posts in the past, including mine, where the mechanic got carried away with the air gun. Lugnuts on my OB were so tight and unevenly torqued after the dealer did the rotation that the warped rotors were replaced 2 weeks later at about 7600 miles.
I wonder if hemp would have such an enthusatic backing that promotes its industrial value (rope, gas, oils etc) if it didn't contain psychoactive chemicals. If some genetic engineer came out with a THCP(?) free version.
yes the pentagon does even try at times do things to see if they can save you money, but usually only after the GAO and Congress are after them. The US is actually the largest customer for Iraqi oil sold under UN sanctioned sales. Buy their oil so Saddam can buy more Sams to shoot at our planes. Great isn't it!
"The US is actually the largest customer for Iraqi oil sold under UN sanctioned sales"
The key being UN sanctioned. The Iraqis sell far more oil on the black market than what the UN allows. Also, the proceeds from the UN sanctioned sales go towards war reparations and medical supplies while the black market sales keep Saddam living in comfort (while his people starve).
He stated that: Specific to the tire rotation you may want to remind the service advisor to make sure the mechanic properly torques the lug nuts. There have been several posts in the past, including mine, where the mechanic got carried away with the air gun. Lugnuts on my OB were so tight and unevenly torqued after the dealer did the rotation that the warped rotors were replaced 2 weeks later at about 7600 miles. What is the torque requirement, should it be hand tightened to that level or can a good impact wrench be used? Was the rotor replacement covered by the dealer?
The dealer initially offered to machine the rotors but after I checked the torque setting with my Craftsmen MicroTek (spelling ??) torque wrench I requested and the dealer readily agreed to replace them.
Proper torque setting for an OB is about 70 ft lbs. Dealers, and most repair shops, carry devices called "torque stix". The mechanic uses the "torque stix" that meets the torque specs for your wheels. It fits on the end of the air wrench.
If you decide to rotate the tires yourself buy a good quality torque wrench. For example, my previously mentioned Craftsmen sells for about $65.
Comments
Here's a great site for all these acronyms:
http://www.acronymfinder.com/
Ken
Bob
;-)
-juice
It seemed to have trouble going from low speed to no speed. The car jerked, lurched, etc. until stopped and then just stalled with all the warning lights coming on. We simply restarted the engine and it was (temporarily) fine. The problem was not consistent and happened only once every 5 or six stops.
Then, after about 2 hours of not driving, it went away. I drove it to the dealer this morning (Monday) and they are looking at it.
Is there anyone here in this group who can reassure a new owner (first time Subaru owner) that this problem may be minor and that this car is still worth the money we spent for reliability?
You can imagine my disappointment in not having a brand new car last even 24 hours.
Any help or advice would be appreciated,
--chick
Some Subarus have problems at purchase. Most of those problems are minor and range from a rattle or squeak to a bad oxygen sensor and in some cases a bad ECU (computer). Those problems are usually diagnosed and fixed relatively quickly. Many of the owners on this list have experienced no problems whatsoever. I would bet your problem relates to something like an oxygen sensor or ECU issue and your dealer will take care of you.
Chances are great your OB will be fine and you will again think it is amazing.
bit
Ask them to test drive it after whatever fix they come up with. It should be delivered to you in ready-to-go reliable shape.
A check engine light would be more or less common, but stalling is not. They should be able to correct that.
-juice
None of the associated warning lights but then that was a 96.
-juice
So, is this explanation reliable? And is there anything inherent in the Outback that I need to be aware of regarding condensation or moisture affecting my gas.
Thanks so much for the help, I am becoming more at ease just listening to all of you.
--chick
-juice
I've found that the good old "Bad Gas" is the first line of explaination. There is a problem, we looked on the computer and don't know what caused it so lets say bad gas and see if it comes back.
Its rather possible. To confrim you merely need to fill it up and burn off a tank tonight. As if you needed an excuse to drive it more.
I wouldn't worry too much about it. It very well may have been moisture in the gas tank.
Has anyone installed them themselves (easy or difficult)?
-mike
Several weeks ago, I was on the NHTSA web site and looked up 2000 Subaru Legacy (for some reason they don't have Outback listed for that MY). There were several owners who complained of tread seperations on regular Firestone Wilderness tires (not the AT model). Now I know that tread seperation can be caused by reasons besides the tires being defective, but after seeing about 6 or 7 of them from different people, I started to wonder.
Anyway, my car had about 17500 miles on it and I hated to spring for new tires when there was a lot of life left in the originals, but I did it anyway. I wound up getting BF Goodrich Touring T/A H4's (about $400 installed). I can't even begin to tell you how different the car is with these tires. It no longer pulls to the left. When I drive at speeds over 60 mph, there is no longer any wheel shake. The ride is greatly improved and so is the handling. The jury is still out on the snow handling however. But regardless, I can't believe what a difference.
Anyone else experience similar problems with the Firestone Wildness tires???
Jon
-mike
I agree with you regarding the new tires. I purchased the exact same BFG's for my wife's Saturn and couldn't believe the difference they made over the stock Firehawks. I too have a 2000 OB and have wondered if the H4's came in "our" size. I'm glad to hear they do.
Ron
Do not know which they go to. Was hoping someone would have had the experience in doing it here and commented on whether they were worth getting.
My guess is I will need the manuals to confirm how to do it. Want to order but they are very expensive.
Len
-mike
Subaruparts.com is looking for $229.
I've seen the two screws at the end of each side under the doors and I would assume they would be attached there but not sure.
Will try and contact Matt to see what he can do. Can anyone check the manuals and see if installinfo is included?
Additionally, I have not rotated the tires at 7,500 miles. Should it be done prior to the trip?
Thanks for the feedback!
The Tires you might want to rotate. I didn't rotate them in my Legacy assuming that the AWD would make them wear about the same (OK so I was wrong). Since it is AWD it is better to replace them all at once, you you will want to keep them rotated.
I do my Oil every 5k (about 6 months for me) and the tires every 10k
Frank
-mike
Frank
Vince
I would rotate the tires, though.
I've heard some people report intervals over 10k with those sensors in place.
-juice
Oil Change -- I wouldn't worry about going to 4,200 miles, especially if it involves lots of highway driving.
Ken
Two bolts into the side skirts and 2 brackets that bolt underneath - I think. If I remember, I'll take a closer look and supply more detail.
-Tony
Troncalli Subaru, Irvine Subaru and subaruparts.com (Titus Subaru) are who I work with now and preferred in that order because of speed, reliability, customer service and price. (in that order. they're all pretty close on price, which is WAAAAY better than my local stealership.)
-Colin
bit
BTW they are sturdy as I (~180lbs) stand on them often when washing/waxing the roof
Hope this helps,
-TonyL
Dennis, I concur. When asked why I bother changing oil myself, that is my answer. Last time I checked, fluids drip down -- a topside inspection is important but getting below deck is a great place to check for minor issues before they become major problems.
..Mike
..Mike
At 6000 miles, I have noticed on occasion -- a slight hesitiation upon acceleration from a standing start (from a stop sign). I have a '01 OBW.
I plan on my third oil change and first tire rotation at 7K at the dealer, but since I normally have this done during their evening hours, I was not certain I could expect a thorough dianosis at that time. As a result, I would like to have some more knowledge BEFORE I go to the dealer.
Questions:
- has anyone else noticed the same?
- what corrective action was done to eliminate the situation?
Once again, my thanks in advance.
Rgds,
Jack
The one thing I just thought of is the gas. The current tank was a complete fill-up (15 gallons) from a station I seldom use. I would guess that is the 'solution' the dealership will give too based on previous posting on other problems.
-jay
I don't think the US buys Iraqi oil, though the Japanese do. Hmm, not sure that oil makes its way into Subies. IIRC Havoline is in the engines at delivery.
Jack: maybe the side bars affect the sensors that trigger the side bags? I though they used accelerometers, so this wouldn't be an issue, but that may be why.
-juice
http://www.globalhemp.com/News/2000/December/hemp_powered_car_tour.shtml
KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs
Not sure about the hesitation question.
Specific to the tire rotation you may want to remind the service advisor to make sure the mechanic properly torques the lug nuts. There have been several posts in the past, including mine, where the mechanic got carried away with the air gun. Lugnuts on my OB were so tight and unevenly torqued after the dealer did the rotation that the warped rotors were replaced 2 weeks later at about 7600 miles.
Vince
I think the author of that article just wants to smoke weed legally.
-Colin
Just move to Jamaica, mon. Or the Netherlands.
-juice
-mike
Ed
The US is actually the largest customer for Iraqi oil sold under UN sanctioned sales. Buy their oil so Saddam can buy more Sams to shoot at our planes. Great isn't it!
The key being UN sanctioned. The Iraqis sell far more oil on the black market than what the UN allows. Also, the proceeds from the UN sanctioned sales go towards war reparations and medical supplies while the black market sales keep Saddam living in comfort (while his people starve).
-Frank P.
Specific to the tire rotation you may want to remind the service advisor to make sure the mechanic properly torques the lug nuts. There have been several posts in the past, including mine, where the mechanic got carried away with the air gun. Lugnuts on my OB were so tight and unevenly torqued after the dealer did the rotation that the warped rotors were replaced 2 weeks later at about 7600 miles.
What is the torque requirement, should it be hand tightened to that level or can a good impact wrench be used? Was the rotor replacement covered by the dealer?
Proper torque setting for an OB is about 70 ft lbs. Dealers, and most repair shops, carry devices called "torque stix". The mechanic uses the "torque stix" that meets the torque specs for your wheels. It fits on the end of the air wrench.
If you decide to rotate the tires yourself buy a good quality torque wrench. For example, my previously mentioned Craftsmen sells for about $65.
Vince