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Comments
Here's a great site for all these acronyms:
http://www.acronymfinder.com/
Ken
Bob
;-)
-juice
It seemed to have trouble going from low speed to no speed. The car jerked, lurched, etc. until stopped and then just stalled with all the warning lights coming on. We simply restarted the engine and it was (temporarily) fine. The problem was not consistent and happened only once every 5 or six stops.
Then, after about 2 hours of not driving, it went away. I drove it to the dealer this morning (Monday) and they are looking at it.
Is there anyone here in this group who can reassure a new owner (first time Subaru owner) that this problem may be minor and that this car is still worth the money we spent for reliability?
You can imagine my disappointment in not having a brand new car last even 24 hours.
Any help or advice would be appreciated,
--chick
Some Subarus have problems at purchase. Most of those problems are minor and range from a rattle or squeak to a bad oxygen sensor and in some cases a bad ECU (computer). Those problems are usually diagnosed and fixed relatively quickly. Many of the owners on this list have experienced no problems whatsoever. I would bet your problem relates to something like an oxygen sensor or ECU issue and your dealer will take care of you.
Chances are great your OB will be fine and you will again think it is amazing.
bit
Ask them to test drive it after whatever fix they come up with. It should be delivered to you in ready-to-go reliable shape.
A check engine light would be more or less common, but stalling is not. They should be able to correct that.
-juice
None of the associated warning lights but then that was a 96.
-juice
So, is this explanation reliable? And is there anything inherent in the Outback that I need to be aware of regarding condensation or moisture affecting my gas.
Thanks so much for the help, I am becoming more at ease just listening to all of you.
--chick
-juice
I've found that the good old "Bad Gas" is the first line of explaination. There is a problem, we looked on the computer and don't know what caused it so lets say bad gas and see if it comes back.
Its rather possible. To confrim you merely need to fill it up and burn off a tank tonight. As if you needed an excuse to drive it more.
I wouldn't worry too much about it. It very well may have been moisture in the gas tank.
Has anyone installed them themselves (easy or difficult)?
-mike
Several weeks ago, I was on the NHTSA web site and looked up 2000 Subaru Legacy (for some reason they don't have Outback listed for that MY). There were several owners who complained of tread seperations on regular Firestone Wilderness tires (not the AT model). Now I know that tread seperation can be caused by reasons besides the tires being defective, but after seeing about 6 or 7 of them from different people, I started to wonder.
Anyway, my car had about 17500 miles on it and I hated to spring for new tires when there was a lot of life left in the originals, but I did it anyway. I wound up getting BF Goodrich Touring T/A H4's (about $400 installed). I can't even begin to tell you how different the car is with these tires. It no longer pulls to the left. When I drive at speeds over 60 mph, there is no longer any wheel shake. The ride is greatly improved and so is the handling. The jury is still out on the snow handling however. But regardless, I can't believe what a difference.
Anyone else experience similar problems with the Firestone Wildness tires???
Jon
-mike
I agree with you regarding the new tires. I purchased the exact same BFG's for my wife's Saturn and couldn't believe the difference they made over the stock Firehawks. I too have a 2000 OB and have wondered if the H4's came in "our" size. I'm glad to hear they do.
Ron
Do not know which they go to. Was hoping someone would have had the experience in doing it here and commented on whether they were worth getting.
My guess is I will need the manuals to confirm how to do it. Want to order but they are very expensive.
Len
-mike
Subaruparts.com is looking for $229.
I've seen the two screws at the end of each side under the doors and I would assume they would be attached there but not sure.
Will try and contact Matt to see what he can do. Can anyone check the manuals and see if installinfo is included?
Additionally, I have not rotated the tires at 7,500 miles. Should it be done prior to the trip?
Thanks for the feedback!
The Tires you might want to rotate. I didn't rotate them in my Legacy assuming that the AWD would make them wear about the same (OK so I was wrong). Since it is AWD it is better to replace them all at once, you you will want to keep them rotated.
I do my Oil every 5k (about 6 months for me) and the tires every 10k
Frank
-mike
Frank
Vince
I would rotate the tires, though.
I've heard some people report intervals over 10k with those sensors in place.
-juice
Oil Change -- I wouldn't worry about going to 4,200 miles, especially if it involves lots of highway driving.
Ken
Two bolts into the side skirts and 2 brackets that bolt underneath - I think. If I remember, I'll take a closer look and supply more detail.
-Tony
Troncalli Subaru, Irvine Subaru and subaruparts.com (Titus Subaru) are who I work with now and preferred in that order because of speed, reliability, customer service and price. (in that order. they're all pretty close on price, which is WAAAAY better than my local stealership.)
-Colin
bit
BTW they are sturdy as I (~180lbs) stand on them often when washing/waxing the roof
Hope this helps,
-TonyL
Dennis, I concur. When asked why I bother changing oil myself, that is my answer. Last time I checked, fluids drip down -- a topside inspection is important but getting below deck is a great place to check for minor issues before they become major problems.
..Mike
..Mike
At 6000 miles, I have noticed on occasion -- a slight hesitiation upon acceleration from a standing start (from a stop sign). I have a '01 OBW.
I plan on my third oil change and first tire rotation at 7K at the dealer, but since I normally have this done during their evening hours, I was not certain I could expect a thorough dianosis at that time. As a result, I would like to have some more knowledge BEFORE I go to the dealer.
Questions:
- has anyone else noticed the same?
- what corrective action was done to eliminate the situation?
Once again, my thanks in advance.
Rgds,
Jack
The one thing I just thought of is the gas. The current tank was a complete fill-up (15 gallons) from a station I seldom use. I would guess that is the 'solution' the dealership will give too based on previous posting on other problems.
-jay
I don't think the US buys Iraqi oil, though the Japanese do. Hmm, not sure that oil makes its way into Subies. IIRC Havoline is in the engines at delivery.
Jack: maybe the side bars affect the sensors that trigger the side bags? I though they used accelerometers, so this wouldn't be an issue, but that may be why.
-juice
http://www.globalhemp.com/News/2000/December/hemp_powered_car_tour.shtml
KarenS
Host
Owner's Clubs
Not sure about the hesitation question.
Specific to the tire rotation you may want to remind the service advisor to make sure the mechanic properly torques the lug nuts. There have been several posts in the past, including mine, where the mechanic got carried away with the air gun. Lugnuts on my OB were so tight and unevenly torqued after the dealer did the rotation that the warped rotors were replaced 2 weeks later at about 7600 miles.
Vince
I think the author of that article just wants to smoke weed legally.
-Colin
Just move to Jamaica, mon. Or the Netherlands.
-juice
-mike
Ed
The US is actually the largest customer for Iraqi oil sold under UN sanctioned sales. Buy their oil so Saddam can buy more Sams to shoot at our planes. Great isn't it!
The key being UN sanctioned. The Iraqis sell far more oil on the black market than what the UN allows. Also, the proceeds from the UN sanctioned sales go towards war reparations and medical supplies while the black market sales keep Saddam living in comfort (while his people starve).
-Frank P.
Specific to the tire rotation you may want to remind the service advisor to make sure the mechanic properly torques the lug nuts. There have been several posts in the past, including mine, where the mechanic got carried away with the air gun. Lugnuts on my OB were so tight and unevenly torqued after the dealer did the rotation that the warped rotors were replaced 2 weeks later at about 7600 miles.
What is the torque requirement, should it be hand tightened to that level or can a good impact wrench be used? Was the rotor replacement covered by the dealer?
Proper torque setting for an OB is about 70 ft lbs. Dealers, and most repair shops, carry devices called "torque stix". The mechanic uses the "torque stix" that meets the torque specs for your wheels. It fits on the end of the air wrench.
If you decide to rotate the tires yourself buy a good quality torque wrench. For example, my previously mentioned Craftsmen sells for about $65.
Vince