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Comments
-Colin
The MY00 Legacy manual consists of 15 files: Leg_toc.pdf and Leg_sect_1.pdf thru Leg_sect_14.pdf .
Has anyone located the Owner's Manual in a single file? Multiple files are hard to search.
..Mike
..Mike
Perhaps Patti can ask nicely on our behalf to make a single file available?
-Colin
bit
bit
Regards,
Frank
-mike
-mike
--
Thank you for taking the time to contact us. Because the owner's manuals were too large to fit into one file, it was necessary to put them into seperate [sic] files linked together. We will not be installing the owner's manuals on MySubaru.com in one file. If you are in need of an owner's manual, please contact us again requesting one. We would be happy to send you one. Best wishes!!
John J. Mergen
Subaru of America, Inc.
YOUR ORIGINAL MAIL:
Currently, the Owner's Manual PDF is in 15 files. This makes offline searching tedious. Can the Owner's Manual PDF be made available for download as a single file?
Thank you.
--
too large to fit into one file
Hmm, all the Flash nonsense on subaru.com isn't too cumbersome to download yet a 4.5MB PDF tucked away in a registration-restricted area isn't. I'm confused. <:-(
BTW I have the manual, I just want a <B>simple way of searching the file (not multiple files). Am I the only one on the planet that likes to do things the easy way?
..Mike
..Mike
Regards, Dave.
Thanks so much for your tip on the valet mode for my 2000 Outback. I just reset it by opening the driver's door and pressing unlock/disarm for more than 2 secs. It worked fine! It's my wife's daily driver and has been bugging her! I'd checked all the workshop manuals and owner's manual and missed the valet mode note. Thanks again! Tom
I'll ask/push about the OL manual and the answer you got.
Thanks again!
Patti
From what I am told, Caroline, the type of ping you are referring to is "normal". Ping, under load, that stops is being corrected by the knock sensor (that is its job).
Dave - yours sounds more constant so I don't know if that makes it one that is not "normal".
So you all know, I'm still trying to get better information for you all on this. I believe our engineers are going to explain the "non-detrimental" answer they have provided me. I'm not ignoring the issue, I'm only going by the answers I am getting/trying to get.
Thanks,
Patti
-mike
You're welcome, Patti. We don't want you to have to do all the work, ya know.
Thanks for the offer, mike. I have Acrobat Acrobat 4.05 (the writer, not just the reader, a.k.a. Acrobat Reader.. talk about confusing nomenclature!) and couldn't figure out how to combine documents (didn't spend a lot of time on it though).
Colin, care to give this a shot with Acrobat Exchange?
..Mike
..Mike
bit
-Colin
Cheers,
-wdb
Apparently the 'knock sensor' isn't working. By the way when I stop in at the dealer for parts the service manager suddenly diappears, we have become a thorn to them about this issue.
http://my.subaru.com/formslogin.asp
And you can download the whole thing for easier and quicker access. It works great from my hard drive.
bit
Posted also in OB section so excuse the double.
Thanks,
Greg
Does the car creep more than it used to, when in gear and stopped but with no brakes? This could also indicate a change in the converter.
The knock sensor only works within a relatively small range. It won't adjust enough to stop something abnormal.
Regards,
Frank
Regards,
Frank
Greg
Here in MA my Forester read 106 when I left work, of course it settled out to the real temp of only 98 when I started moving. The dew point is 70!! I agree, it is too hot and sticky for me too!
Great timing too. I need to go for surgery for a deviated septum tomorrow, and spend the whole weekend with my nose full of gauze, breathing through my mouth. O-boy!
Go Patriots!
Regards,
Frank
I too have sustained pinging (that is - my car does). We were on vacation last week and the car continued to ping in the warm weather. We were in Lassen National Park driving up to the summit and the car was pinging like crazy at around 2000 - 2500 rpm. Everytime the transmission downshifted and the revs went higher the pinging went away. We were using a mix of national brand gas - you use what's available in the rural towns of N. California.
The pinging was nothing new. Anytime the weather is warm the car pings. The weird thing was the shaking at idle we've been experiencing since the MAF sensor was replaced. We live at around 60ft elevation and the car shakes at idle. It is especially noticeable when the weather is cooler. We did not experience the shaking at idle when the car was at higher elevations. Most of our vacation was at 4000 ft - 8500 ft elevation and the car did not shake.
Cobb tuning has a good article on Subaru's Intake system design, but I still think we have an additional problem with the new MAF sensor, since the old one was not a problem.
There's a very good chance you have a leak some where in your air inlet plumbing. If you're a DIYer, check everything from the MAF sensor back for a good snug fit. Also check that there are no loose or disconnected hoses of any sort--vacuum, crankcase breather, whatever.
If you want to simply go back to the dealer and complain, you can do that too. It is very doubtful that there's anything wrong with the MAF sensor itself though, what you describe is a more typical symptom of an air leak behind the MAF, which leads to unmetered air entering the throttle body. This makes the car run rough, because the computer is already leaning things out to a massive extent at idle. (20:1 - 30:1 a/f ratio)
-Colin
Would that account for the difference in shaking depending on elevation? The idle speed is smooth in all situations... shaking only occurs at low elevation though. I've looked to see if anything is loose, but haven't seen anything. There was no shaking with the old MAF sensor. Could they have installed it incorrectly or messed up the air intake plumbing somehow?
-Eric
The MAF sensor is between the fender-mounted air filter box and the throttle body, right after the filter box actually.
Hard to say what they did or didn't do, but when a new problem arises one always considers recent work.
-Colin
How do I remove the drain plug (will an open ended, adjustable wrench work?)?
The manual states that I should replace the sealing washer with new one. Where can I purchase these sealing washers? Are these generic parts or do I need to purchase Subaru washers?
Oil filter - any caveats about choosing a generic filter vs the Subaru part?
Oil filter wrench - are these generic parts as well? Any considerations when I shop for this?
What about viscosity? I live in the Bay Area, California...I would consider the area I live in to be desert-like. The manual recommends different numbers for viscosity...
30, 40, 10W-50, 20W-40, 20w-50...how do I choose between all of these?
2. The washer is from Subaru.
3. Most people seem to agree that you should avoid Fram. The Subaru filter is made by Purolator so it should be ok.
4. Any oil filter wrench is ok, but you may not need on.
5. I'm not certain about the H6, but I would guess 10-30 as your most likely choice.
Ross
First, let me compliment the accurate title of your post. Unfortunately, many don't bother with an accurate title.
Adding to Ross's good suggestions,
1. Locate a re-use or recycling facility (check with your municipality) and two empty 1-gallon containers. Milk jugs work but they're flimsy and when the ambient temperature drops, partially filled jugs will collapse, crease, crack, and leak.
2. Use disposable gloves, available at a hardware or auto store.
3. Use a 17mm socket to remove the drain plug. As Ross said, from the factory, it's on tight and requires a bit of effort to loosen.
Per vdchawk "Subaru Outback VDC (Station Wagons Board)" Aug 4, 2001 7:37pm , the H-6 3.0l engine uses the same filter as the SVX engine, Subaru part# 5165109. Confirm this with your dealer.
Here are oil change instructions. Also read your owner's manual (it has a diagram of the drain plug location). Don't overfill the engine; use a partial bottle if necessary. I fill per the manual specification, no more, no less; then check on a level surface. It's always right on the money.
Edmunds oil change, video << .
Impreza oil change, photo << Tatsuki Matsuyama .
Learn2 oil change << .
eHow oil change << .
Once you confirm the VDC oil filter part number, please post it here to help someone else.
Cheers,
..Mike in Maryland (location added per suggestion in the VDC topic)
..Mike
The key to selecting the right oil is ambient temp. Hotter temp = Thicker oil. I think that 10w-50 would do anything you could throw at it. It doesn't make that much of a difference though. Putting in heavier oil is not going to damage your engine or anything and the bay area doesn't have temperature extremes that would push lighter oil beyond its limit. Some arguments could be made for optimal gas milage but I don't know if it makes that much difference. The critical thing is to change the stuff regularly.
You might consider synthetic after 8K or so miles.
Before you even get at the oil system you will need to remove that bottom tray. You'll need something like a screwdriver for that deed. Get a LARGE oil drain pan. The oil comes out in a nice ballistic arc (while little bits drip). Don't forget your magnet to fish the drain plug out of the oil drain pan after you drop it in.
bit
Greg
bit
Greg
bit
Colin: thanks for the informative summary. Susan, over in the OB boards, has been working with her dealer on her "pinging" engine, and it sounds like it might just be the non-destructive pre-ignition you mention.
-juice
-mike
i've never heard anything, but my car has been a bit noisy since... oh 2000 miles or so when I installed a catback exhaust.
-Colin
Greg
-mike
I love them. They are like teflon - easy to clean, hard to get dirty or scratch.
-juice
I've got a quick question. With the windows down, I hear a definite "click" when the trans shifts. It is particularly noticeable during the 2nd to 3rd shift but is also somewhat noticable during the 1st to 2nd shift. It is most noticeable when starting out for the first 6 to 10 shifts, then it is not quite as loud.
I mentioned this to the dealer mechanic and he gave me the usual 'It's normal'. Trans performance is fine otherwise. I've got about 10K on the speedo.
Does the esteemed panel think I have anything to be concerned about??
Thanks!
Ron
Jack - Ohio
Kidding, I know yours is an auto. Have you checked your ATF level? Probably.
If so I'd ask the dealer to document the complaint, just for future reference. At 30k, I would have the ATF flushed and refilled, whether or not you have the problem. It's a cheap service and should add life to your tranny.
-juice