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Subaru Crew Problems & Solutions



  • pattim3pattim3 Posts: 533
    Hi Juice! I just love your use of keyboard diagrams. I'm sure some more folks would have loved your diagram of how to do the Samba in last weeks chat! It still has me smilin'

  • lark6lark6 Posts: 2,565
    myfirstsube: That puts me about 45 minutes SSE from you. I've been rotating every 8K and recently did my 3rd - just went over 25K miles this weekend. I had a puncture on the way back from Phila. Airport about 6 weeks ago and replaced one Geolandar - a little bummed as I was hoping to replace all four at once with something different, like a Dunlop SPSport 5000.

    You must have bought yours from Becker; they're well respected on this and other boards when it comes to sales and service - more so than the dealers in Bucks and Montgomery Counties. I may go there when the time comes to buy another Subaru.


  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I had almost forgotten! Shake those hips!



  • rochcomrochcom Posts: 247

    8500 Miles
    I: My Clutch Vibrates.
    Them: Normal.
    I: Illinois? I thought Subies were made in Indiana or Japan.
    Them: Consider it a feature -- free foot massage.

    30k Miles
    I: My clutch chatters when cold.
    Them: Cannot duplicate.
    I: Maybe you should buy a Xerox.

    36k Miles
    I: Still chattering when cold.
    Them: Leave overnight.

    Next Day
    I: Well?
    Them: We heard it. But we wouldn't do anything at this time.
    I: What do you mean? With all that chattering, I think its trying to tell us something.
    Them: Our teeth do the same thing when we are cold.

    48k Miles
    I: The clutch is STILL chattering, Now doing it when warm. Starting to chatter between 1-2 and 2-3 shifts.
    Them: We have to tear it apart to see what'ts up.
    I (Clutching my wallet): Will Subaru cover that under warranty?
    Them: We won't know until we get it apart. If not, you pay.
    I: How much to tear it apart?
    Them: Almost as much as the entire repair labor.
    I: Can't you call Subaru to authorize it?
    Them: Only the service manager can do that, but he's on vacation.
    I (having a litle pun at THEIR expense, or will it be mine): Trying
    to avoid the chattering of customers, I presume.

    49k Miles.
    I: Chatter, chatter, chatter.
    Them: Cease that infernal chatter. We'll cover it. But you have to pay for the pad.
    I: You meant the lining?
    Them: Same thing. Either way we line our pockets.
    I: Well, I hope you don't pad the bill.

    I: Done?
    Them: Yes, and we coverd it in full. No charge.
    I (Charging out of there): Finally, thanks.

    Start Car -- Drive
    I: Rats! No foot massage. Anyone know of something in the aftermarket?
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    he he he!

    Must've been the weak pressure plate. Glad you finally got it replaced.

  • bat1161bat1161 Posts: 1,784
    Juice: It has happened when the vents are open, with circulation set to recirculate rather than fresh to help cool the car off faster. I don't remember if it has happened with the air set to fresh, but that shouldn't matter, should it? It is also only at highway speeds, and even then not every time. I was trying to hear if it happened on my drive home yesterday, so of course it didn't! I'll try to keep an ear open for it this weekend when I travel down to Philly.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I'm trying to think of what would make a "groan" sound. Power steering pump, maybe? Doesn't match your symptoms, though.

    Maybe it's the A/C compressor?

  • paisanpaisan Posts: 21,181
    Could be a leaf in the blower, or vaccum controled flaps. I know there are a lot of flaps that are vaccum controlled and sometimes (don't ask me how) leaves work their way down into there and can casue these problems.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Could be. Check in the cowl area, use a vacuum even to get any debris out. You can combine the vacuum with the vents at full blast to clean the interior vents.

  • bat1161bat1161 Posts: 1,784
    Thanks guys.
    I can't see it being the power steering pump since it only seems to happen when I first start out at highway speeds. I figure if it was the compressor I would be hearing it more often as well. I'll try the vacuming tonight when I get home.

  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    Sounds similar to my clutch squeak dealer hassles. Lasted thousand of miles and didn't bother opening the tranny until after the warranty expired. Tried to charge me $1200 for a new clutch and told me it would be another $800 if I didn't resurface the flywheel soon.

    Phone calls to SoA and a meeting with the District Service Manager took care of that!

    Actually, I kinda miss the squeak too. It gave my car character. I even got it on videotape.

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869

    Glad to hear that SOA covered your clutch under warranty. Your profile shows that you own a 98 Subaru -- which model in particular?

  • rochcomrochcom Posts: 247
    It's a '98 Forester S. By the way, the new clutch makes the pedal feel lighter and it engages more consistently. However, it doesn't feel very solid. Maybe it needs to break in a bit.
  • kenskens Posts: 5,869

    Ah, then you are in the same boat as myself. Had the same repair done on my 98 S too. It doesn't feel like it, but your pressure plate is now clamping down much harder.

    The clutch pedal will get heavier over time, BTW. It was explained to me that as the clutch breaks in, you'll naturally get more friction from "stuff" building up in the fluid and lubricants.

  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    I actually like the light pedal feel. It's far less tiring.

  • billj137billj137 Posts: 5
    Has anyone experienced the timimg chain failure that I just did with 995 miles on my new Bean? They want to swap the engine. I want a new car.
  • ateixeiraateixeira Posts: 72,587
    Holy Cow! No way, that's the first I've ever heard on a chain (rather than belt). That is a pretty freak occurance.

    If it's an interference design you could have some seriously damanged pistons, valves, even cylinder liners and crank.

    As long as they replace everything past the tranny, it should be OK.

    I still can't get over a chain breaking like that. How bizarre!

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    The chain could have failed or one of the tensioners could failed. Either way it's death to the valvetrain and major damage to the pistons. Nothing else should have been hurt.

    Other than the delay in repairs though I see no reason for a new car. This is a freak accident (or gross negligence, at any rate it's rare) and a brand new engine will fix it just the same as a brand new car.

    If they can't fix it posthaste though I see your point-- it's uncool to be without such a new vehicle for an extended time. Maybe if they gave you a loaner just like it?

  • kenskens Posts: 5,869
    Yeah, a chain breaking, especially at that mileage, is definetly a freak incident. I've also never heard of it. I understand how disappointed you would feel with such a brand new car. As Colin said, a new engine should take care of it.

    I'd express my concern to the dealer to make sure you're taken care of during the repair.

  • subaru_teamsubaru_team Posts: 1,676
    Wow - this is a first for me - and I read a lot of cases. I'm really sorry.

    If you get a chance, give us a call at 1-800-SUBARU3 so we can stay on top of the situation and make sure things move quickly and to your satisfaction. Please tell the Representative that you speak with that I would like to see your case.


  • nygregnygreg Posts: 1,936
    I guess these engines are interference. Not sure I ever got a definite answer on that.

  • locke2clocke2c Posts: 5,038
    I am pretty sure they are. There is just about no way a DOHC engine could be anything else because when the cams can move independently that often enables valves to smack each other...

    maybe there is sufficient quench area so that the piston can't hit the valves at full lift no matter when it happens, but the valves will probably foul on each other.

  • pattim3pattim3 Posts: 533
    Colin scores! They are interference engines in the H-6.

  • Too bad about about your tire. I picked up a small panel nail in the tread about 6 months ago.
    It made it through and was repaired with a patch.
    I had the dealer do it. I do not trust anyone else yet with the aluminum wheels.

    You guessed correctly, I bought at Becker. It was a good experience. Also was not used to being able to arange a loaner every time I asked for one. At the Ford dealerships I have never been able to get a loaner in the past. We really are enjoying this car. Had it 15 months.

  • Any suggestions on brands of gasoline for the new Subaru I purchased?

    Its my understanding that gas is gas, but the additives are what makes the brand names different from each other.
  • The manual indicates that for the first 1000 miles, you should not drive at the same speed for a "long" time...

    What is considered long?

    Just wondering if I should make a 50 mile trip from San Jose to Oakland.
  • armac13armac13 Posts: 1,129
    there is no reason for you to not make a 50 mile trip. Every minute or two try to increase or decrease the revs, at least a little. You would be better off *NOT* maintaining the exact same speed (like in cruise control) for the entire journey. Can't help you with gas brands, I'm Canadian. :~)

  • rochcomrochcom Posts: 247
    Having had a disastrous experience with my '89 Saab, I inquired of Subaru whether their engines were interference or not. The answer I received was that the DOHC engines WERE, but the SOHC engines were NOT. I further inquired as to belt change requirements on the 4 cylinder DOHCs. The answer is below.

    Thank you for visiting the Subaru Web site, and for your inquiries. 1.
    The engine in your '98 Forester is a an interference type engine.
    Damage will occur to your engine if the timing belt breaks. 2. If you
    have a Federal Spec. vehicle, we recommend that the timing belt be
    replaced at the 60,000 mile service interval. If you have a California
    Spec. vehicle, we recommend that the timing belt be replaced at the
    105,000 mile service interval.

    If you do not know what spec. your '98 Forester is, please contact us
    again with your VIN, and we will advise you. Best wishes!!

    John J. Mergen
    Subaru of America, Inc.

    I sent them my VIN and was told that mine was a CA spec engine. I thought this odd, since I live in upstate New York. I will probably change it earlier, since my Owner's Manual says 90,000.
  • bluesubiebluesubie Posts: 3,497
    Anthony - We recently had a big fuel discussion a little while ago. Too bad this board is virtually un-searchable. :-)

    In my experience, I was able to tell a slight difference in some brands and a big difference in others. Fuel formulations vary by region so your car can run great on brand X in your state and run not so great with the same gas in other state or even another part of the same state.

    I tried about 3 tanks of each major brand when I searched. Personally, I use Sunoco around home and Amoco or Exxon if I can't find it on trips.

    My car definately doesn't like Hess, Texaco or Getty, but I've heard other people say these brands work great in their cars.
    Good luck and have fun sampling.

    Jeff - Maybe upstate cars don't have NY emissions. Could that only be near NYC? If you still have your window sticker it should be on that.

  • zscottiezscottie Posts: 23
    I drive a Subaru 98 Legacy CT Limited I/ a 2.5 liter engine, and 48k miles. I noticed that when I start the car in the morning, there's a knocking noise coming from the engine compartment... the knocking gets faster as I increase in speed. I've also noticed that if I press on the gas pedal quickly after putting the transmission in "Drive" there's a momentarily loss in engine power. Otherwise, the car is fine on my daily commute, and my various weekend trips.

    The last time I heard this knocking-type noise was in Dec. 99, when I had about 20K on the car. The Subaru dealer said my alternator went bad. It was replaced under warranty. I hope it's not that again...

    I called the dealer yesterday, and told them my problem. The service advisor said there are probably carbon deposits in my engine valves, and would need a "top engine cleaning?" Is this something that costs alot? Can this be resolved I/ a fuel additive? The dealer said they perform this on vehicles @ the 30K service mark. That wasn't done on my car I/I I took it elsewhere for that service.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks!
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