I got a call from a service manager at the Pontiac dealership where I bought my car. He told me that I have a MU-5 transmission in the car, and that it does have a filter, not a screen. $165 includes the filter.
I've got a 2003 Matrix with 87,000 miles and have been told by service dept that I need a new catalytic converter. When I first bought car in 2003 new, I smelled that sulfer smell after turning car off and they told me this was due to how gas burned and not a catalytic converter problem. I never pursued this further and now find myself having to replace converter which is $1300. It's warranted to 80,000m. I'm trying to find out if this is major problem with other Matrix owners and a design flaw with Toyota or simply defective part in my case. Is gas smell related to early signs of catalytic converter problem? Has anyone else experienced catalytic converter problems? thanks for any responses.
My advice for anyone buying tires -- go to a place that does match mounting. After a horrific experience with new tires for my Camaro, I finally found a shop that treated me courtesly and did some investigation. They found that both the new tires and the stock (aluminum) rims were "significantly out of round" and recommended match mounting. What a difference -- no more vibration at any speed.
Match mounting matches the out of roundness of the tire to the out of roundness of the rim.
As for tire recommendations, at 85,000 miles I bought new Goodyear Assurance Triple Tread tires for my Matrix and had them match mounted. At 108,000 miles (and almost no noticible wear) I have no complaints. I've driven in -15-100+ degree temperatures, sun, hurricanes and snowstorms (1-2"/hour in Ohio) and am singing their praises to anyone who will listen. They're expensive, but worth it.
If I had new tires or wheels that were 'significantly out of round" I would return them for ones that weren't defective. In my 40 years of driving I have used many different custom and stock wheel/tire combos and have never encountered a situation that required this.
I think the info you got was essentially correct---unless the catalytic literally fell apart physically, it probably is due to how your car is burning fuel----so I'd have that checked out to see if you are either burning extra rich fuel or if you have low compression or a misfire.
Lately, I noticed that when I brake, I heard some squeeking sound coming out from the brake. I thought it's time to replace the brake pad. The Matrix is about 3 years and has about 60,000 KM on it. I thought it's about time to replace them.
I brought it to the dealer, the inspect it and found out that there are still 40% left in the front and 60% left in the rear. They won't recommend to change it at this moment. So I guess I should leave it. However, the dealer need to charge CAD$50 for inspection fee. On the other hand, they recommend to do a break service on both the front and rear for CAD$120. In that case, they waive the $50 inspection fee. I asked them what if I decide to replace the brake. They said it would cost CAD$120 to replace the front pad + CAD$95 to sand the rotor. I went ahead and did the service.
My questions are: 1) If there are 40% left in on the pad, how come I'm getting the squeeking sound? For sure I know it's not moisture because I still hear the sound after a long highway drive. 2) What does the brake service do? Is it worth it? 3) Is it necessary to sand the roter everytime when replacing the pad if there is no obivious groove on the disc? The dealer told me it's a must. When you replace the front pad, you HAVE TO sand the rotor.
OK - I've done this - no tools needed unless you are replacing the plastic lens. The space is tight around the coolant reservoir or battery area, but if you are nimble, you can replace the bulbs without removing equipment. To replace the bulb, unplug the socket from the headlamp. Remove the rubber dust boot from around the bulb's base. Slightly bend the side of the retaining spring clip which isnt seated with a screw - it will pull back from its tab and swing out of the way on its hinge. The bulb is now free and can easily drop - pull it out carefully. Make sure your new bulb isnt touched by your finger prints or other grease/oils - if so, cleanse with alcohol. If a halogen bulb gets smudged, it will shorten the life of the bulb due to hot spots on glass where the smudge was. Once new bulb is in place, hold it down in its seat, being careful not to let it drop or get smudged, while you reapply pressure with the spring clip. Reinsert the clip under its tab, reinstall the rubber boot, reconnect the socket, and you're done.
I have just bought a 2003 Matrix against the advice of a mechanic friend of mine. He stated that problems are starting to show up with the engines at 60K to 70K miles. Something about they are aluminum engines and have teflon sleeves instead of steel sleeves, and the teflon is wearing out at about 60K causing the engine to smoke etc and thus are having to be replaced usually just after they are out of warranty.
I asked around in quite a few other places and no one esle has heard anything about this, so I went ahead and bought the car and will bring it home tomorrow. Now, though, I'm starting to worry again.
I really have no idea exactly what my friend was talking about, but was wondering if anyone else out there might, or might have heard of significant problems with the Matrix engines.
I am surely no expert, but the engine is the same one as used in the Corolla - probably the most durable car on the road. Check with Consumer Reports, etc.
I would not worry. Just change your oil and filter every 3K and you should be fine.
We have a 2003 but with only about 32K on the odometer. No problems as yet. I've been a regular reader of this forum for several years and don't recall any posts with this sort of complaint about the engine.
If you are unhappy with the car, and you have a legitimate problems, document it, and then go to an lawyer. Toyota plays games, juggling you back from corporate to dealership, back to corporate to dealership, etc. That was my experience with my Avalon. However, I was able to diagnose and fix the problem myself, albeit after going through an alogorithm and about 2K worth of wheels and other parts. The car runs well now and plan to keep it, but going to have a hard time buying another Toyota again.
Bought a BMW as a second car. Probably will go back to a Honda Van in retirement.
Work from outside, and then inwards. Start with another set of tires, then wheels. Check the rotors for out of round, and alignment. If this doesn't work, check the inner CV joint and axle for out of round. I went through all of this with an Avalon.
I found your post while searching for information on matrix catalytic converters as I just found out mine is bad also. I bought it new in 02 (2003 model) and it has 91K miles on it. I noticed the check engine light on last night and brought it in. Any further luck with finding out if this is a common problem? Thanks, Liz
I have the same problem with my 2003 Matrix which I just bought this past September. Prior to the Matrix I had a 2002 RAV4 which I purchased new. The RAV4 blasted heat! The experience I'm having with the Matrix is more similar to Jstan01's; it doesn't matter how long I leave it to warm up, it doesn't get good heat until I've driven it about 20 minutes (although I think it has more to do with the number of miles driven, for some reason, than the time). And it will blow warmer air, then cooler air, then warmer air during those first 10 miles (in my daily driving situation roughly the equivalent of 20 minutes road time). Seems when the car takes a dip or goes over a bump, the cooler air blows -- suggesting the vacuum that opens and closes the doors doesn't fully seat for sometime after you start driving the car. Has anyone figured out if this can be fixed?
I have a 2006 Vibe and was a little frustrated that it did not have cross bars for the roof rack. I learned that they were standard issue through 2004...then they stopped for some reason. I ended up buying some to install. I just can't figure out how to do so. Any hints or suggestions? I am also curious as to the usefulness of them. You were clearly underwhelmed by them...would you please elaborate a little on this.
There isn't much to elaborate on... look at them... they're flimsy, there isn't 3 feet between the rails, and they're barely an inch of the roof.. so unless you're hauling 2"x4"x5ft lumber, and not too many of them, what is it good for?
As far as installation, it's a little involved, and I haven't done it. If you go to "genvibe" -- rules forbid the posting of an address, but I'm thinking you can figure it out -- and do some searching, you'll find instructions. The only good news is that they are tough to steal and don't make much noise.
SIR, OIL CHANGE IS VERY IMPORTANT AS WELL YOU KNOW. HOWEVER IF YOU ARE ONE WHO DRIVES A LOT, AND DON'T HAVE TIME TO MAKE THE DEALERSHIP FOR CHANGES, I SUGGEST YOU CHANGE TO SYNTHETIC OIL. I HAVE USED IT FOR SEVERAL YEARS, IN ALL MY FAMILY VEHICLES. NOT ONLY DOES IT LAST UP TO 7,000 OR MORE MILES, IT ALSO KEEPS THE INSIDE OF YOUR ENGINE CLEAN AS THE DAY IT WAS BUILT. I KNOW THIS BECAUSE MY DAUGHTERS SURBURBAN HAD AN INTAKE GASKET LEAK, WHEN THE TECHS REMOVED THE INTAKE THEY WERE IN SHOCK AS TO HOW VERY CLEAN THAT ENGINE WAS INSIDE. GOOD LUCK
I haven't heard of any "fixes" for this problem yet, and I haven't decided whether to say anything to my dealer yet or not. Last night I was caught in a traffic jam leaving work in temperatures of around 20 degrees. The temperature gauge in my Vibe only came up to about the first mark the entire time (more than 20 minutes) and the heat was lukewarm.
As soon as the jam passed and I got up to full speed on the highway, the gauge came up the middle mark where it usually is and I had very hot heat.
This morning (about 10 degrees outside), I noticed that when I came to a stop sign or slowed down for any significant period of time, the gauge would drop, and my heat would go lukewarm. Once underway, it came right back up.
I must confess that based on my experiences thus far, I am not impressed with "Toyota reliability." Perhaps I ended up with a fluke of some sort, but I have had more "annoyances" and repair shop visits (broken window switch bezel, loose suspension connections, check engine light resulting in replacement of an emissions control part) than I ever had with my Ford or GM vehicles. The car only has 14,000 miles on it!
Question to all forum readers - if you live in a cold climate, does your Vibe's temperature gauge and heat act this way? I need to know whether this is something I need to visit the garage for yet again.
probably not. The Corolla has always been plagued with the problem of not reaching proper operating temperatures in the winter. However, I don't like the fact that the car's temp guage "drops" after sitting. That seems very implausible in today's cars. Nonetheless, your comment about Toyota quality is not totally off base. This simply is the worse built car in NUMMI's history. I have 70,000 miles on my 2003 AWD, and can only complain about the pathetic paint. Aside from that, it has been predicable Corolla quality, and I don't even think that the folks out at NUMMI can ruin a Corolla. I would ask at several repair shops concerning the temp drop issue. If they say they have to take a look, just keep on driving. After 10 places, you'll get a good idea whether this is normal/abnormal/severe or nobody's every heard of it, and you should just enjoy the ride.
I'm assuming, then, that your Vibe's gauge does not act this way on cold days? I'll do some more asking around, as you suggest.
I've heard about Corolla's history of poor heat, but my concern, like you say, is what the temp gauge is doing after it is up to full operating temp, but then sits.
It doesn't drop clear back down, but it does drop noticeably, and of course, I notice the temperature difference with the heat.
one could only assume it is a bad thermostat. My wife states that she has never noticed a drop in the guage with her Vibe; we certainly experienced the anemic thermostat in our last Corolla. While it is certainly never as cold here as in your area, it is simply not possible in my mind that today's car engines could act as your's has, given the heat output. Sorry for your troubles. I hope someone smarter than I will be able to chime in. March is coming, and I hope a mechanic can nip this in the bud over the next few weeks.
My son is the primary driver of our Vibe and he does not think he sees this with his temp guage. But before I went to a mechanic for a fix, I would ask around (as you are doing) to make sure others don't experience the same thing. Read post #616 and try your question over there.
We have 2 Matrix - an '05 and a '06. Each with about 5,000 miles on them. Here in Ohio in 20F degree weather, we usually start to have heat within 3-4 minutes of driving. Temp gauge moves to about 40% and stays there during drive.
If you leave the car for maybe an hour. It starts out again "cold", but again have heat and normal range of gauge within a few minutes.
I finally had a chance to check things out. It's 25 degrees out today and I started my son's Vibe in the driveway while I did the snow. It ran for about 40 minutes. Then I jumped in and checked the temp guage. It was only up about 1/4 of an inch. I went for a ride around the block and it came up to about 1/2 way. Then I let it idle in the driveway again and it dropped to about 1/4 of an inch from the bottom. I don't think you have a problem. I bet they all do this, although it does not follow the pattern of all previous cars I have owned.
I would suggest that anyone with a Matrix that is about to go out of warranty look carefully at the interior door handles. While our '03 still was in warranty last August, we had the driver's door handle replaced. Now it's no longer under warranty, and the chrome definitely is starting to peel on the front passenger door handle.
I have an 05 matrix, that I have had all recommended maintenance preformed, and last week out of no where the car died. I had to be towed into the dealership, I'm wondering if anyone has had a similar experience.
... this is getting to be a pretty convoluted thread. With a lot of questionable information.
To begin with, the 3 trannies in the Vibe are 5sp manual (base), 4sp auto (base, AWD), 6 sp manual (GT).
The manual transmissions have neither filters nor service intervals.... I don't know where sgm is getting that idea.
Also, I don't believe that the AWD affects the service intervals for the automatic transmission; the only difference is slightly higher load due to the extra weight plus the friction when the system is actually engaged.
The manufacturer's stated intervals are there because that's what they believe should be done. In many cases, this is tilted towards LESS service, because it lets them use it in their advertisement -- 100k tuneup intervals! sealed-for-life transmissions!
The idea that they manufacturers recommend extra service to make their dealers happy is silly. Our '03 Sienna does not have a stated interval for changing transmission fluid. I think that's pushing it, and I will flush it (or have it flushed) before the summer... the car is a little over 3 years old and has 45k miles on it. I want 200k out of the drive train, and this looks like cheap insurance to me, no matter what the manufacturer recommends.
On the '93 Corolla, there was no stated interval for the timing belt change unless one used the "severe service" schedule. Again I'd say that's pushing the customer's luck.
I own a 2003 Matrix 4WD XR (bought in 2002) and I was recently told it has a slight oil leak. The leak is not making it to the ground. My mechanic stated it was making the engine look wet, but not enough to drip to the ground. I have 78K miles on the car and found this to be quite surprising. This does not seem to be Toyota quality.
My next step is to get in there and see where it is coming from. Does anyone have any suggestions why this is doing this and where it might be originating from?
Where is the engine wet? He's sure it's a leak but couldn't tell you where it originated? Something doesn't sound right with this story. Are you sure it wasn't just oil that had been spilled during the last oil change? When I had a leak on a Corolla it was coming from the filter due to a bad seal. It reached the ground in very small drips, but it didn't make the engine look wet.
This is my first message to the group and I could really use some help. I test drove 2 Vibes today, a 2003 and 2005 Base models. Aside from some aesthetic items, I noticed a large difference in the way the 2 automatic transmissions shifted. The 2005 was much smoother (seamless)when it shifted, while you seemed to feel the 2003 shift around a bit. The 2003 had 79000 miles. Should there be a noticable difference between these vehicles or is this a sign of a problem. Any comments will be welcomed. :confuse:
I've just read many complaints on the starting issue. I just test drove a 2005 (24K miles) and when I went to restart the car (~5-10 minutes later), it also demonstrated this starting problem. I dismissed this as unusual, but both teh dealer and I noted it.
Is this a serious enough condition to not buy the car? Are we talking about the car not being able to start, or simply waiting a few seconds longer before turning over?
Also, never heard back om my earlier comments on the shifting difference between yhe 2003 and the 2005 FWD. Was the smoother feel an improvement to the new model, or a problem with the old? I can't be;ieve that a Toyota tranny would have issues at 79K.
The starting problem is annoying, but the car has never left me stranded. However, if I had known about it before buying the car, I wouldn't have bought it. I bought my 2005 brand new, but even it were used, I would be upset that a 1-year old vehicle doesn't start up right away every time.
Last month, my check engine light came on. They had to replace some sort of "harness" that monitored something in the emissions system at startup. I was hopeful it would fix the issue, but it didn't.
My Vibe starts right up 90 percent of the time. When it balks, I wait a little bit, and then it starts up again. Sometimes it just hesitates and kind of "chugs" (for lack of a better word). At other times, it turns over, and there is nothing (like it's not getting any fuel). However, every time, if I stop cranking for a bit, wait, and then try again, it starts. I've never been stranded, but I am left every time with the thought that I will never buy another GM product - Toyota-made, or otherwise as long as I live!
BTW, interestingly enough, when I took my Vibe to the dealer for the check engine light, I brought along printouts about the starting problem and a copy of the Toyota TSB. The service guy told me he talked to his buddy at the local Toyota dealership, and that guy told him the Vibe's electronics - including the emission control/fuel control system - are GM. I find that hard to believe, since everything else, except the styling, is Toyota. But if he's right, wouldn't you know that's the one thing I have trouble with? :mad:
The mechanic could not figure out where it was coming from. He mentioned something about a cover/plate in the way. He did suggest I wipe the engine down and watch to see where it is coming from. Easier said than done.
Unrelated, he also stated the transmission was leaking. I haven't even begun to think about this yet. Thanks
After reading some more complaints about the slow warm up of Vibe engine at idle I decided to look in to it a little further. After doing some expiermenting I realized the problem only occuurs when the heater is on. Everything is working OK, it's just that the wimpy little Vibe engine produces so little heat at an idle the heater works like a radiator and keeps the engine temp down. First Day: Outside temp 29 F Started the car, after sitting all night, without the heater running. After 15 minutes temp guage is up almost halfway (5.25 lines) and within another 10 minutes bottom radiator hose is hot (indicating thermostat has opened). This location on the temp guage is most likely 180. Then I turned on the heat full blast. Within 10 minutes temp guage was down to 2 lines.
Second Day: Outside temp 29 F Started the car with the defroster on full blast. After 35 minutes of idling temp guage is still down at 1 line and bottom radiator hose is cold (indicating theromostat is closed).
Interesting. That would match my experience as well. I suspect that another factor would be how soon you begin driving as opposed to idling. I'm almost always running late, so I usually allow little time at idle and take it easy the first few miles. I have noticed that the gauge comes up quicker if I don't turn the heat on as soon as the gauge is registering. If I drive and wait to turn it on until it reaches almost half way, the heat is much better and more consistent.
I'm surprised that Toyota hasn't figured something out to fix this. I've had "tiny" engines before that didn't have trouble heating up.
Yes, as soon as you start driving everything warms up fine. The problem is just when idling. I can't think of anything that would correct this situation. A larger engine would fix the problem but one of the reasons we own the Vibe is for the fuel economy of the small engine. A smaller heater core would help. But then you wouldn't have enough heat once you started driving. I even wonder if the Vibe/Matrix has a larger heater then the Corolla sedan and thus the problem. A sensor that limits the fan speed until coolant is hot enough to blow hot air would work. My Lexus RX300 has this. But this would just make more people aware of the problem. Think about it. You are driving along with the heat on high and stop and idle for a while. The engine temp would go down and the blower speed would step down. Most people aren't even aware of the cool temp at idle situation and this would just create more complaints. My problem is compounded by the fact that I have a remote starter. When it's 29 degrees out and I remote start the car and let it run for 30 minutes I expect it to be warm, not sitting at the first line on the temp gage. I plan on expeirmenting a little further and try lower blower speeds to see if it will warm up a little better.
Purchased an 06 vibe in November. I have noticed a bouncy ride over smooth roads. Took it back to dealer and they found one cupped tire. It still road horrible so I took it back again. They replaced the other 3 tires. It still bounces and now rides rough on the highway. I'm not sure if this is normal for this type of car. Anyone else noticing a bouncy ride?
It would depend on what you mean by bouncy and "smooth roads". My 2005 Vibe is definitely "bouncier" than my previous car, which had independent suspension.
I travel on I-69 in Michigan quite a bit, and that road surface is concrete with rubber expansion joints. Certain sections of the road tend to "dip" between the joints, and I have definitely noticed "bounciness" when driving this stretch - probably because of the Vibe's torsion beam setup. I've also noticed the Vibe is quite bouncy at low speeds on "rough" roads - which defines about 90% of the road surfaces up here! :-)
If you have other symptoms such as clunking or steering that is pulling one way or the other, than something is probably wrong. If your ride is just slightly bouncy, then you're probably OK.
If you own your Matrix for economy, why would you remote start it and let it idle for 30 minutes? :confuse:
Here in Ohio it still gets pretty cold in the winter and we just get in either of our two Matrix, start them and start driving. We have heat within 3 minutes. One of best and fastest heating cars we have owned.
Mine is the same. Heat works great if you drive. Problem is idling. It does not warm like 99% of other cars. Idling for 30 minutes was more for a test than any standard operation but there are rare occassions when car is iced over and I would like to warm and melt ice like other cars so I can see through the windows before driving.
This is similar to an experience I had with a 1989 Nissan Sentra AWD wagon. With 7,000 miles on the odometer I saw a little drip on the garage floor and thought it was an oil leak. The mechanics proceeded based on that assumption but couldn't find it. They then removed the cover plate to get a better look, and they decided that the leak actually was transaxle fluid. They replaced something called a "neutral safety switch," but a couple days later the leak was back. This time they decided that the leak was power steering fluid and that the problem was a loose "pre-load adjustment screw." Five months later the leak was back. This time they resealed the screw opening and retightened the screw. That finally took care of the problem.
I guess I would suggest taking the car in again and having them put it up on a rack so they can remove the plate and do a thorough investigation. They may find that it's something simple. I personally don't like leaks of any sort, but mechanics will sometimes tell you that it is best to just live with very small leaks, especially in older cars, because you might go in to fix one thing and end up causing another problem that then would have to be addressed.
My previous car was a 99 Grand Prix. It rode real rough. This car has a ver soft ride. I drove an 03 Matrix this past weekend and it rode about the same as mine, maybe a litle rougher. I guess I'm not used to a soft ride. I did notice in the Matrix that the seat cushions are already flattening out. Has any other Matrix owners noticed this after 20,000 miles.
I purchased a 05 Matrix in April 05. Complained about the noise. Was told it was "road noise". At 18,000 mi. my right front tire was also cupped bad. Dealer replaced all tires, as they all became cupped as they are rotated. Still having problem so they aligned front end. 5,000 mi. on these tires and again bad cupping. Getting it checked out again Friday 3/17.
Can Vibe owners help me?! I test drove a Vibe with 22000 miles on it today. It is a 2005 and in great shape. However when we checked the tail pipe, wiping inside of it with a paper towel, we picked up a lot of black soot. It was not oily, just very black and sooty. My van is a 1999 and has no soot, just very little light grey, more smokey than sooty. My husbands truck is the same. Is the soot normal for these cars? Do you all have soot in your tail pipes also? If it is not normal are there any mechanics here who can tell me what would cause that? Thanks for the help!
I have a 2003 which was so noisy. When I changed to a different Goodyear style, at 38k the noise was very reduced and these tires are lasting a lot longer than the dealer style.
Have a 2003 Matrix. My in cabin blower fan has been "chirping" for several years and finally has reached the point where it will never stop. It looks like it should be easy to replace since it is behind the glovebox under the filter. I have not been able to find the part or how much it would cost. I tried WD 40 but it just made the car smell funny. Has anyone else tried this?
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Comments
Match mounting matches the out of roundness of the tire to the out of roundness of the rim.
As for tire recommendations, at 85,000 miles I bought new Goodyear Assurance Triple Tread tires for my Matrix and had them match mounted. At 108,000 miles (and almost no noticible wear) I have no complaints. I've driven in -15-100+ degree temperatures, sun, hurricanes and snowstorms (1-2"/hour in Ohio) and am singing their praises to anyone who will listen. They're expensive, but worth it.
I brought it to the dealer, the inspect it and found out that there are still 40% left in the front and 60% left in the rear. They won't recommend to change it at this moment. So I guess I should leave it. However, the dealer need to charge CAD$50 for inspection fee. On the other hand, they recommend to do a break service on both the front and rear for CAD$120. In that case, they waive the $50 inspection fee. I asked them what if I decide to replace the brake. They said it would cost CAD$120 to replace the front pad + CAD$95 to sand the rotor. I went ahead and did the service.
My questions are:
1) If there are 40% left in on the pad, how come I'm getting the squeeking sound? For sure I know it's not moisture because I still hear the sound after a long highway drive.
2) What does the brake service do? Is it worth it?
3) Is it necessary to sand the roter everytime when replacing the pad if there is no obivious groove on the disc? The dealer told me it's a must. When you replace the front pad, you HAVE TO sand the rotor.
I feel like i got ripped off.
What do you think?
:confuse:
OK - I've done this - no tools needed unless you are replacing the plastic lens. The space is tight around the coolant reservoir or battery area, but if you are nimble, you can replace the bulbs without removing equipment.
To replace the bulb, unplug the socket from the headlamp.
Remove the rubber dust boot from around the bulb's base.
Slightly bend the side of the retaining spring clip which isnt seated with a screw - it will pull back from its tab and swing out of the way on its hinge.
The bulb is now free and can easily drop - pull it out carefully.
Make sure your new bulb isnt touched by your finger prints or other grease/oils - if so, cleanse with alcohol. If a halogen bulb gets smudged, it will shorten the life of the bulb due to hot spots on glass where the smudge was.
Once new bulb is in place, hold it down in its seat, being careful not to let it drop or get smudged, while you reapply pressure with the spring clip.
Reinsert the clip under its tab, reinstall the rubber boot, reconnect the socket, and you're done.
I asked around in quite a few other places and no one esle has heard anything about this, so I went ahead and bought the car and will bring it home tomorrow. Now, though, I'm starting to worry again.
I really have no idea exactly what my friend was talking about, but was wondering if anyone else out there might, or might have heard of significant problems with the Matrix engines.
Thanks !
SBW :confuse:
I would not worry. Just change your oil and filter every 3K and you should be fine.
Bought a BMW as a second car. Probably will go back to a Honda Van in retirement.
Good luck.
abfisch
abfisch
Thanks,
Liz
Thanks,
J.C.
As far as installation, it's a little involved, and I haven't done it. If you go to "genvibe" -- rules forbid the posting of an address, but I'm thinking you can figure it out -- and do some searching, you'll find instructions. The only good news is that they are tough to steal and don't make much noise.
-Mathias
As soon as the jam passed and I got up to full speed on the highway, the gauge came up the middle mark where it usually is and I had very hot heat.
This morning (about 10 degrees outside), I noticed that when I came to a stop sign or slowed down for any significant period of time, the gauge would drop, and my heat would go lukewarm. Once underway, it came right back up.
I must confess that based on my experiences thus far, I am not impressed with "Toyota reliability." Perhaps I ended up with a fluke of some sort, but I have had more "annoyances" and repair shop visits (broken window switch bezel, loose suspension connections, check engine light resulting in replacement of an emissions control part) than I ever had with my Ford or GM vehicles. The car only has 14,000 miles on it!
Question to all forum readers - if you live in a cold climate, does your Vibe's temperature gauge and heat act this way? I need to know whether this is something I need to visit the garage for yet again.
Thank you!
I've heard about Corolla's history of poor heat, but my concern, like you say, is what the temp gauge is doing after it is up to full operating temp, but then sits.
It doesn't drop clear back down, but it does drop noticeably, and of course, I notice the temperature difference with the heat.
If you leave the car for maybe an hour. It starts out again "cold", but again have heat and normal range of gauge within a few minutes.
Have been very pleased with both cars.
To begin with, the 3 trannies in the Vibe are 5sp manual (base), 4sp auto (base, AWD), 6 sp manual (GT).
The manual transmissions have neither filters nor service intervals.... I don't know where sgm is getting that idea.
Also, I don't believe that the AWD affects the service intervals for the automatic transmission; the only difference is slightly higher load due to the extra weight plus the friction when the system is actually engaged.
The manufacturer's stated intervals are there because that's what they believe should be done. In many cases, this is tilted towards LESS service, because it lets them use it in their advertisement -- 100k tuneup intervals! sealed-for-life transmissions!
The idea that they manufacturers recommend extra service to make their dealers happy is silly. Our '03 Sienna does not have a stated interval for changing transmission fluid. I think that's pushing it, and I will flush it (or have it flushed) before the summer... the car is a little over 3 years old and has 45k miles on it. I want 200k out of the drive train, and this looks like cheap insurance to me, no matter what the manufacturer recommends.
On the '93 Corolla, there was no stated interval for the timing belt change unless one used the "severe service" schedule. Again I'd say that's pushing the customer's luck.
-Mathias
My next step is to get in there and see where it is coming from. Does anyone have any suggestions why this is doing this and where it might be originating from?
Thanks.
Is this a serious enough condition to not buy the car? Are we talking about the car not being able to start, or simply waiting a few seconds longer before turning over?
Also, never heard back om my earlier comments on the shifting difference between yhe 2003 and the 2005 FWD. Was the smoother feel an improvement to the new model, or a problem with the old? I can't be;ieve that a Toyota tranny would have issues at 79K.
Last month, my check engine light came on. They had to replace some sort of "harness" that monitored something in the emissions system at startup. I was hopeful it would fix the issue, but it didn't.
My Vibe starts right up 90 percent of the time. When it balks, I wait a little bit, and then it starts up again. Sometimes it just hesitates and kind of "chugs" (for lack of a better word). At other times, it turns over, and there is nothing (like it's not getting any fuel). However, every time, if I stop cranking for a bit, wait, and then try again, it starts. I've never been stranded, but I am left every time with the thought that I will never buy another GM product - Toyota-made, or otherwise as long as I live!
BTW, interestingly enough, when I took my Vibe to the dealer for the check engine light, I brought along printouts about the starting problem and a copy of the Toyota TSB. The service guy told me he talked to his buddy at the local Toyota dealership, and that guy told him the Vibe's electronics - including the emission control/fuel control system - are GM. I find that hard to believe, since everything else, except the styling, is Toyota. But if he's right, wouldn't you know that's the one thing I have trouble with? :mad:
Unrelated, he also stated the transmission was leaking. I haven't even begun to think about this yet.
Thanks
First Day: Outside temp 29 F
Started the car, after sitting all night, without the heater running. After 15 minutes temp guage is up almost halfway (5.25 lines) and within another 10 minutes bottom radiator hose is hot (indicating thermostat has opened). This location on the temp guage is most likely 180. Then I turned on the heat full blast. Within 10 minutes temp guage was down to 2 lines.
Second Day: Outside temp 29 F
Started the car with the defroster on full blast. After 35 minutes of idling temp guage is still down at 1 line and bottom radiator hose is cold (indicating theromostat is closed).
I'm surprised that Toyota hasn't figured something out to fix this. I've had "tiny" engines before that didn't have trouble heating up.
My problem is compounded by the fact that I have a remote starter. When it's 29 degrees out and I remote start the car and let it run for 30 minutes I expect it to be warm, not sitting at the first line on the temp gage. I plan on expeirmenting a little further and try lower blower speeds to see if it will warm up a little better.
I travel on I-69 in Michigan quite a bit, and that road surface is concrete with rubber expansion joints. Certain sections of the road tend to "dip" between the joints, and I have definitely noticed "bounciness" when driving this stretch - probably because of the Vibe's torsion beam setup. I've also noticed the Vibe is quite bouncy at low speeds on "rough" roads - which defines about 90% of the road surfaces up here! :-)
If you have other symptoms such as clunking or steering that is pulling one way or the other, than something is probably wrong. If your ride is just slightly bouncy, then you're probably OK.
If you own your Matrix for economy, why would you remote start it and let it idle for 30 minutes? :confuse:
Here in Ohio it still gets pretty cold in the winter and we just get in either of our two Matrix, start them and start driving. We have heat within 3 minutes. One of best and fastest heating cars we have owned.
Idling for 30 minutes was more for a test than any standard operation but there are rare occassions when car is iced over and I would like to warm and melt ice like other cars so I can see through the windows before driving.
I guess I would suggest taking the car in again and having them put it up on a rack so they can remove the plate and do a thorough investigation. They may find that it's something simple. I personally don't like leaks of any sort, but mechanics will sometimes tell you that it is best to just live with very small leaks, especially in older cars, because you might go in to fix one thing and end up causing another problem that then would have to be addressed.
I have a better understanding now. If you keep it outside, I would agree, that idling that long, you would expect the deicing to occur. I would too!
Cheers