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Comments
Match mounting matches the out of roundness of the tire to the out of roundness of the rim.
As for tire recommendations, at 85,000 miles I bought new Goodyear Assurance Triple Tread tires for my Matrix and had them match mounted. At 108,000 miles (and almost no noticible wear) I have no complaints. I've driven in -15-100+ degree temperatures, sun, hurricanes and snowstorms (1-2"/hour in Ohio) and am singing their praises to anyone who will listen. They're expensive, but worth it.
I brought it to the dealer, the inspect it and found out that there are still 40% left in the front and 60% left in the rear. They won't recommend to change it at this moment. So I guess I should leave it. However, the dealer need to charge CAD$50 for inspection fee. On the other hand, they recommend to do a break service on both the front and rear for CAD$120. In that case, they waive the $50 inspection fee. I asked them what if I decide to replace the brake. They said it would cost CAD$120 to replace the front pad + CAD$95 to sand the rotor. I went ahead and did the service.
My questions are:
1) If there are 40% left in on the pad, how come I'm getting the squeeking sound? For sure I know it's not moisture because I still hear the sound after a long highway drive.
2) What does the brake service do? Is it worth it?
3) Is it necessary to sand the roter everytime when replacing the pad if there is no obivious groove on the disc? The dealer told me it's a must. When you replace the front pad, you HAVE TO sand the rotor.
I feel like i got ripped off.
What do you think?
:confuse:
OK - I've done this - no tools needed unless you are replacing the plastic lens. The space is tight around the coolant reservoir or battery area, but if you are nimble, you can replace the bulbs without removing equipment.
To replace the bulb, unplug the socket from the headlamp.
Remove the rubber dust boot from around the bulb's base.
Slightly bend the side of the retaining spring clip which isnt seated with a screw - it will pull back from its tab and swing out of the way on its hinge.
The bulb is now free and can easily drop - pull it out carefully.
Make sure your new bulb isnt touched by your finger prints or other grease/oils - if so, cleanse with alcohol. If a halogen bulb gets smudged, it will shorten the life of the bulb due to hot spots on glass where the smudge was.
Once new bulb is in place, hold it down in its seat, being careful not to let it drop or get smudged, while you reapply pressure with the spring clip.
Reinsert the clip under its tab, reinstall the rubber boot, reconnect the socket, and you're done.
I asked around in quite a few other places and no one esle has heard anything about this, so I went ahead and bought the car and will bring it home tomorrow. Now, though, I'm starting to worry again.
I really have no idea exactly what my friend was talking about, but was wondering if anyone else out there might, or might have heard of significant problems with the Matrix engines.
Thanks !
SBW :confuse:
I would not worry. Just change your oil and filter every 3K and you should be fine.
Bought a BMW as a second car. Probably will go back to a Honda Van in retirement.
Good luck.
abfisch
abfisch
Thanks,
Liz
Thanks,
J.C.
As far as installation, it's a little involved, and I haven't done it. If you go to "genvibe" -- rules forbid the posting of an address, but I'm thinking you can figure it out -- and do some searching, you'll find instructions. The only good news is that they are tough to steal and don't make much noise.
-Mathias
As soon as the jam passed and I got up to full speed on the highway, the gauge came up the middle mark where it usually is and I had very hot heat.
This morning (about 10 degrees outside), I noticed that when I came to a stop sign or slowed down for any significant period of time, the gauge would drop, and my heat would go lukewarm. Once underway, it came right back up.
I must confess that based on my experiences thus far, I am not impressed with "Toyota reliability." Perhaps I ended up with a fluke of some sort, but I have had more "annoyances" and repair shop visits (broken window switch bezel, loose suspension connections, check engine light resulting in replacement of an emissions control part) than I ever had with my Ford or GM vehicles. The car only has 14,000 miles on it!
Question to all forum readers - if you live in a cold climate, does your Vibe's temperature gauge and heat act this way? I need to know whether this is something I need to visit the garage for yet again.
Thank you!
I've heard about Corolla's history of poor heat, but my concern, like you say, is what the temp gauge is doing after it is up to full operating temp, but then sits.
It doesn't drop clear back down, but it does drop noticeably, and of course, I notice the temperature difference with the heat.
If you leave the car for maybe an hour. It starts out again "cold", but again have heat and normal range of gauge within a few minutes.
Have been very pleased with both cars.
To begin with, the 3 trannies in the Vibe are 5sp manual (base), 4sp auto (base, AWD), 6 sp manual (GT).
The manual transmissions have neither filters nor service intervals.... I don't know where sgm is getting that idea.
Also, I don't believe that the AWD affects the service intervals for the automatic transmission; the only difference is slightly higher load due to the extra weight plus the friction when the system is actually engaged.
The manufacturer's stated intervals are there because that's what they believe should be done. In many cases, this is tilted towards LESS service, because it lets them use it in their advertisement -- 100k tuneup intervals! sealed-for-life transmissions!
The idea that they manufacturers recommend extra service to make their dealers happy is silly. Our '03 Sienna does not have a stated interval for changing transmission fluid. I think that's pushing it, and I will flush it (or have it flushed) before the summer... the car is a little over 3 years old and has 45k miles on it. I want 200k out of the drive train, and this looks like cheap insurance to me, no matter what the manufacturer recommends.
On the '93 Corolla, there was no stated interval for the timing belt change unless one used the "severe service" schedule. Again I'd say that's pushing the customer's luck.
-Mathias
My next step is to get in there and see where it is coming from. Does anyone have any suggestions why this is doing this and where it might be originating from?
Thanks.
Is this a serious enough condition to not buy the car? Are we talking about the car not being able to start, or simply waiting a few seconds longer before turning over?
Also, never heard back om my earlier comments on the shifting difference between yhe 2003 and the 2005 FWD. Was the smoother feel an improvement to the new model, or a problem with the old? I can't be;ieve that a Toyota tranny would have issues at 79K.
Last month, my check engine light came on. They had to replace some sort of "harness" that monitored something in the emissions system at startup. I was hopeful it would fix the issue, but it didn't.
My Vibe starts right up 90 percent of the time. When it balks, I wait a little bit, and then it starts up again. Sometimes it just hesitates and kind of "chugs" (for lack of a better word). At other times, it turns over, and there is nothing (like it's not getting any fuel). However, every time, if I stop cranking for a bit, wait, and then try again, it starts. I've never been stranded, but I am left every time with the thought that I will never buy another GM product - Toyota-made, or otherwise as long as I live!
BTW, interestingly enough, when I took my Vibe to the dealer for the check engine light, I brought along printouts about the starting problem and a copy of the Toyota TSB. The service guy told me he talked to his buddy at the local Toyota dealership, and that guy told him the Vibe's electronics - including the emission control/fuel control system - are GM. I find that hard to believe, since everything else, except the styling, is Toyota. But if he's right, wouldn't you know that's the one thing I have trouble with? :mad:
Unrelated, he also stated the transmission was leaking. I haven't even begun to think about this yet.
Thanks
First Day: Outside temp 29 F
Started the car, after sitting all night, without the heater running. After 15 minutes temp guage is up almost halfway (5.25 lines) and within another 10 minutes bottom radiator hose is hot (indicating thermostat has opened). This location on the temp guage is most likely 180. Then I turned on the heat full blast. Within 10 minutes temp guage was down to 2 lines.
Second Day: Outside temp 29 F
Started the car with the defroster on full blast. After 35 minutes of idling temp guage is still down at 1 line and bottom radiator hose is cold (indicating theromostat is closed).
I'm surprised that Toyota hasn't figured something out to fix this. I've had "tiny" engines before that didn't have trouble heating up.
My problem is compounded by the fact that I have a remote starter. When it's 29 degrees out and I remote start the car and let it run for 30 minutes I expect it to be warm, not sitting at the first line on the temp gage. I plan on expeirmenting a little further and try lower blower speeds to see if it will warm up a little better.
I travel on I-69 in Michigan quite a bit, and that road surface is concrete with rubber expansion joints. Certain sections of the road tend to "dip" between the joints, and I have definitely noticed "bounciness" when driving this stretch - probably because of the Vibe's torsion beam setup. I've also noticed the Vibe is quite bouncy at low speeds on "rough" roads - which defines about 90% of the road surfaces up here! :-)
If you have other symptoms such as clunking or steering that is pulling one way or the other, than something is probably wrong. If your ride is just slightly bouncy, then you're probably OK.
If you own your Matrix for economy, why would you remote start it and let it idle for 30 minutes? :confuse:
Here in Ohio it still gets pretty cold in the winter and we just get in either of our two Matrix, start them and start driving. We have heat within 3 minutes. One of best and fastest heating cars we have owned.
Idling for 30 minutes was more for a test than any standard operation but there are rare occassions when car is iced over and I would like to warm and melt ice like other cars so I can see through the windows before driving.
I guess I would suggest taking the car in again and having them put it up on a rack so they can remove the plate and do a thorough investigation. They may find that it's something simple. I personally don't like leaks of any sort, but mechanics will sometimes tell you that it is best to just live with very small leaks, especially in older cars, because you might go in to fix one thing and end up causing another problem that then would have to be addressed.
I have a better understanding now. If you keep it outside, I would agree, that idling that long, you would expect the deicing to occur. I would too!
Cheers