Dodge Ram - II



  • wildmanbakerwildmanbaker Member Posts: 65
    Thanks for the Remote Start info.

  • wineowineo Member Posts: 18
    Anyone in this group know ANYONE ...with a y2k 2500/3500 Cummins QC/6 Spd/SLT+ sitting in their driveway at home ????
    Is this truck a myth or what ...
  • jack38jack38 Member Posts: 18
    In earlier posts, I reported a problem with a new Python security/remote start unit in my ram 2500 diesel. The remote start did not wait for the "wait to start" light to shut off. After some checking, the installer was able to locate the correct signal wire and correct the problem. Python has fantastic range compared to other units. I would recommend the Python 1500 Remote start security system to anyone considering this product including diesel truck owners like myself.
  • wvbillswvbills Member Posts: 12
    I'm finally taking delivery of my new truck this afternoon.

    It arrived at the dealer Friday afternoon about 4:00. They wouldn't let me have it until today, though. They said that it takes two hours to detail the vehicle and do the state safety inspection. Their "service" department closes at 5:00 and isn't open on Saturday but they said "You can come and look at it on the lot if you want."

    If this dealer hadn't been $800 lower than the next closest dealer.....

    Oh well - I'll be smilin' tonight!
  • wildmanbakerwildmanbaker Member Posts: 65
    I saw one on a dealer lot this weekend, SLT+ with a 6 speed. It seems funny, leather, heated seats, power everything, CD/cass., and a 6 speed manual. Go figure.

  • biknmikebiknmike Member Posts: 27
    My truck is being built this week and is going to be shipped on Monday the 25th. Can't wait. Hope you like yours. My wife is getting sick of hearing me talk about it. Oh Well!
    Good Luck.
  • wvbillswvbills Member Posts: 12
    Haven't had much "play" time in my new truck yet. Mostly driven it back and forth to work in the dark so far but I really like it.

    On the floor of the bed there are two oval holes that have plastic caps in them. These are NOT the tie down points up in the front corners. These holes are about 7/8ths by 1/2 inch. One is about 1/3 of the way back and the other 2/3. they are in line about 1/4 of the way from the left side.

    Since they appear to possibly line up with the frame rails underneath, I thought they might be bolt access holes, but I didn't get a chance to look real close yet and there are not similar holes on the right side. Also, they don't look like they are wide enough to get a decent size socket in there.

    I couldn't find anything in the owner's manual about them and the salesman said "Oh they're drain holes". Yeah, well he was a drain hole - but that's another story... and why would they be capped if they are drain holes?

    Does anyone know what these holes are?

  • andy_jordanandy_jordan Member Posts: 764
    This time your dealer is right, they are drain holes. They are not designed so much for a rain shower, rather if you get a lot of snow in your bed, hose it down etc. There are many reasons why they are capped - for instance so nothing small in the bed will fall through - sand etc. The cap also prevents things from being thrown up from the road and on to the top of the bed.
  • wineowineo Member Posts: 18
    Where are you located, I'm in So.Cal and the dealers here look at me funny when I tell them I'm looking for a 6-speed. *#@#-head mentality at these dealers has me just shakin' my head.
    And all the goodies in the SLT+ sounds good to me, means I can drive forever and never want to get out ...
    What color was the one you saw, if's its White w/ tan leather I just might have to do some traveling.
  • wineowineo Member Posts: 18
    Called Dave Smith today .... 5 - 6 speeds on the lot all short beds no Sport pkg models.I'm looking for a long bed w/ Sport pkg.
    Thanks anyway for the tip... The internet salesman was very nice and helpful, sounds like a good dealer to deal with.

    Still Waiting
  • psubongpsubong Member Posts: 9
    Does anybody know what the thing is that is plugged into the bottom of my battery tray? I have a 97 2500 Cummins. It has two wires that come out and attach to a connector near the left headlight.
  • rspadingrspading Member Posts: 8
    Have you TD owners checked out the TDR Website? It is all new and redesigned with an active discussion forum and lot's of new pages. There are both member areas and nonmember areas, but everyone gets to read the forum. It is a great site and growing rapidly. The TDR has over 15000 members so the expertise in the discussions is second to none when it comes to knowledgeable people helping other diesel owners. The site is at
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    I posted this several months ago, but after six visits to my dealer, I am getting rather frustrated. My 99 1500 Quad 4x4 has some kind of clunk in the steering mechanism. The dealer has replaced the lower steering shaft three times and has replaced the steering column once. All to no avail. The dealer does acknowledge that they do feel something, and they have tried everything within reason to fix it. Today the factory rep drove the truck and said that this is normal operation for this vehicle. BULL!@#%. Those of you out there with 99 1500 Quad 4x4's, have you experienced this problem. Looks like Lemon Law time!! Thanks.
  • paramedic99paramedic99 Member Posts: 64
    Well I have the same truck with absolutely no problem at all. No clunk, no drift nothing. Where the truck was built may hold some insight. Check your VIN or window sticker if you have it.

    Some trucks built before 3/3/97 had a clunk problem where repair required the replacement of the intermediate shaft with a new intermediate shaft, and, on some vehicles, install replacement brake tubes and supports (the intermediate shaft connects the steering column with the steering gear). But yours is a 1999.

    This was outlined in TSB 19-08-97. There was also issues with steering wander. I advise taking your truck to another Dodge dealer for service. First the factory rep is not going to readily admit anything part of his job is to minimize losses for repairs. Secondly, it is obivous that the technical skills of the mechanics at this dealership while probably good are just not hitting on the problem. A new set of hands may make a difference. You can service the truck at any Dodge Truck dealer regardless of where it was purchased.

    Good luck.
  • huwsummershuwsummers Member Posts: 5
    I've got the same clunk in the steering column every time a turn the wheel right or left and the front wheels go up or down on the pavement. I think it is in the Steering Column because everything else is tight and you can feel it in the driveway just turning the wheel left or right. I just started looking at this and I have 6750 miles. It kind of snuck up on me and I don't remember if it was always there. It is starting to irritate me.
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    It has irritated me to no end. The problem is actually worse in hot weather. My opinion of the cause is this:

    The steering shaft has a viscous damper at approximately mid length. The viscous damper is supposed to absord road impacts and other front end movements (i.e. potholes, and braking). This viscous damper is sealed with a rubber boot and is not serviceable. I believe the upper and lower shaft are making contact within this sealed boot area. Could explain why the problem is worse in hot weather and almost non-existent in cold weather. Steel does expand when hot, and the shafts could be expanding just enough to cause contact. Anyway, Dodge has not been able to fix it and I am extremely frustrated. By the way, this truck only has 2500 miles. I'll keep you posted how this is resolved. Thanks for the feedback.
  • huwsummershuwsummers Member Posts: 5
    Thanks for the info on the viscous dampner. I did some troubleshooting on my truck and found that I could grab the steering column from inside the engine compartment next to the fire wall and get the same clunk by pushing and pulling on the shaft side to side. I think that you are right about the shaft play is knocking on the housing. I am going to check my Service Manual to see about the construction of the Steering column. I don't believe that I have any play in the linkage down to the Steering Pump/Gear Assembly. Anyway, I plan to call my 5 Star Service Center and get their opinion also. I'll keep you posted on what I find.
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    Please keep me posted on what you find out.
  • wildmanbakerwildmanbaker Member Posts: 65
    rlkrueger or anyone else,

    When you use the "remote start", do your headlights come on dim after the engine starts? Mine do, and the Installers are trying to tell me that this is normal for new dodges, because of a feed-back in the system. This does not seem right as the headlights have a separate relay and the park lights have a separate relay. I need some feed-back before I jump into somebodies room and close the door.

  • paramedic99paramedic99 Member Posts: 64
    There is definetly power issue with the electrical system in this truck. Just start the truck, idle, and after the power window is up or down all the way attempt to use the button to force it closed more or down more. The lights will dim.

    Yes this is attempting a power drain on the system but we are talking about a little PW motor not a friggin bumper mounted winch.

    I dont have the remote start but I have noticed instances of lights dimming. This also occurs in my truck when I run the light bar responding to emergency calls.
  • wildmanbakerwildmanbaker Member Posts: 65
    Understand, but as soon as I turn the key to on and tap the brakes, the park/headlights go out. When I turn the headlights on they are bright. They do fluctuate up and down as the heaters cycle on, but the head lights start out real dim and do not get much brighter. I believe the wrong wire was tapped into for the park light hook-up.

  • paramedic99paramedic99 Member Posts: 64
    Now I see what you are saying. My apologies. You know it may be as simple as the system accessing the wrong ground.

    If the remote start system was grounded to a shared ground with the lights/parking lights etc then when the remote was on it could drain power from the other circuit in this fashion. This is the same as for example if you have ever installed a car stereo and used a ground only to find that your headlight switch turns your stereo on and off. I would first try moving the ground to another source or even running it to the main ground from the block and seeing what happens.
  • wildmanbakerwildmanbaker Member Posts: 65
    Thanks for the Ideas, will check it out. Have found out the Cruise control does not work now either.

  • dodgeramdodgeram Member Posts: 202
    is there a tsb for that steering clunk problem, I live in ontario canada and own a 94 ram that is doing the exact thing you guys mentioned earlier.
    If there is a tsb for this problem, does it apply for my 94 ram yes or no? Because when I asked the dealer they told me it would cost me near $400 cdn. I said I'll wait!
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    Just because Dodge issued a TSB for this problem doesn't mean you get it fixed for free. TSB's outline common or hard to diagnose problems and their recommended repair procedure. I would assume your 94 model does not qualify for a warranty repair. What really ticks me off about this problem is that the '97 model I traded for the '99 did not have this problem. When the dealer technician tried to say that was just a characteristic of the truck, I told him my '97 did not do it. He was much more quiet after that!!
  • trucklovertrucklover Member Posts: 51
    The 265x75x16s that came with my 99 sport qc ram 4x4 suck. I have already blown a side wall hoping a dang curb at 2 mph and the other 3 look like they are worn after only 15k miles.

    so, I am ready to upgrade my tries and want to try and put 35x12.50x15 on my 99 quad 4x4 1500. is this possible without a lift. When I messured with a tape it appears to be enough clearance.

    Can anyone help. Also, I am dropping from a 16'
    wheel to a 15' wheel any issues there.

    lastly, I am looking at the BF goodrich allterrain
    TA ko tire, but would love suggestions for another
    good all around wet, dry, mudd, and snow tire size
    33 or 35. kellys?
  • paramedic99paramedic99 Member Posts: 64
    Not sure if you would need a lift. You probably will have issues with the speedo, ECM, braking ??? , etc. Then there is the issue of more tire, a larger circumference so to maintain the same travel you may notice differences in RPM, MPG and handling. My intial concern (not being an expert by far) would be steering radius within the wheel well with a larger tire may not be sufficient without the lift kit.

    If you lift or change the wheel size or tires outside specs I would be you void the warranty also. But again I am no expert - these are just my impressions.

    Good luck. It sounds like it will be a bad [non-permissible content removed] if you do it.
  • paramedic99paramedic99 Member Posts: 64
    Regarding the TSB I agree. I think he was looking to find out if Dodge admitted to a problem via a TSB and what the fix was. If he can establish evidence that he complained of this problem while within warranty without remedy he may be able to coerce the dealership into warranty claim for this event. Who knows. Sometimes bitching helps.
  • gwmooregwmoore Member Posts: 230
    Your best off to stick with the 265s and make sure you get good LT-rated tires (Kelly work well). I'm pretty sure those 265s that came with the sport package were P-rated. I can't believe they put that junk on new full-size pickups. Unless all you care about is looks, the 265s are more than adequate for any off-road applications with that truck.
  • davids1davids1 Member Posts: 411
    I am assuming the stock 265's are Goodyears. Goodyear has already replaced 3 of the 4 original RT/S's on my 99 Quad 4x4. Whatever you do, stay away from the Goodyear tires. They are nothing but junk! By the way, I think goodyear makes Kelly too, but I'm not too sure. A friend of mine go 70,000 miles out of a set of Firestone Wilderness AT's on a Ford Explorer Sport. I think I will look at those when I replace my tires. As the previous post said, you should also look to an LT rated tire.
  • gwmooregwmoore Member Posts: 230
    I don't know where you're from, but out here in the Northwest, Les Schwab has some good LT-tires that are supposed to last.
  • trambitistrambitis Member Posts: 21
    Until recently I labored under the impression that a tire was a tire and that the only useful
    consideration in selecting a tire was its purchase
    price. In doing my homework preparatory to the purchase of a new Dodge 3/4T, however, I've come to realize that tire selection is a bit more complicated than I initially thought. That said, would someone out there in this really great site care to enlighten me on a few basics?

    1) What do the numbers and letters in the tire
    designation "LT265/75R16 SBR" refer to and how would a tire such as this compare physically to, say, a 245/70?
    2) How does a tire of a given size relate to fuel economy? Can I assume a wider diameter tire will generally yield a better mpg?
    3) I've read several postings suggesting that tire size will influence effective differential
    gear ratio, i.e., kcram sez that a 4.10 rear end
    with 265s is comparable to a 3.73 with 2.45s. Help me understand this, if you would. Does this mean that 265s will increase the fuel economy of a vehicle having a 4.10 rear end and does tire size ultimately have any effect upon acceleration and towing capability?
    4) What are the characteristics of "all season"
    and "all terrain" tires. Would the "all season" generally be the preferred tire with which to pull my 10,000# fifth wheel?

    Thank you for your time.
  • trambitistrambitis Member Posts: 21
    Whoops! One more question, if you will. It's been said that I should go with 10 ply tires for most efficient 5th wheel towing. I didn't even know they made such a tire for pickups. Is the ply rating to be found in the typical tire designation numbers/letters? Thanks!
  • cdubeecdubee Member Posts: 3
    I picked up my new Ram 2500 SLT+ Cummings two weeks ago and its everything I expcted and more. My wife took it out yesterday for the first time and came back and told me I have a problem with the new truck. When I asked what -- she said 'its mine, now'.

    But seriously, there is something I cannot figure out. I'm getting 15-16 mpg for the first 1000 miles. I filled the tank three times so far. On two of those, the overhead computer told me I had about 30 miles till empty. And the fuel guage was in the red. Yet when I filled it, I could only put 28 gallons in the tank. And the specs say its a 35 gallon tank. What gives? Is the fuel guage and overhead computer that inaccurate, that I really have 7 gallons left when I think there should be about 2 gallons left. Or was I short sheeted with a smaller tank. Haven't talked to the dealer yet as I want to see what others have experienced first. Thanks
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJMember Posts: 3,516

    Let's go your questions in sequence:

    1. Tire designation breakdown:

    LT - light truck
    (P means Passenger car)
    265 - overall width of the unloaded tire measured
    in millimeters
    (bulge width at the bottom not included)
    75 - aspect ratio - section height divided by
    section width. Ub this case, the section
    height is approx. 200mm
    R - radial
    (B = bias belted, D = bias ply)
    16 - wheel diameter in inches
    E - load rating - every letter is two plies,
    thus E = 10 plies
    SBR - steel-belted radial

    A 265/75R16 is substantially taller than a 245/70 or 245/75.

    2. A wider tire will redu8ce your fuel economy by increasing drag. A taller tire may improve economy by requiring less rpm to travel the same distance.

    3. Tire/speed formula:

    tire rolling radius x rpm
    ---------------------------------- = mph
    axle ratio x gear ratio x 168

    As you can see, the tire size and axle ratio are inversely proportionate to each other. To maintain the same speed, if one numerically increases, the other will numerically decrease.

    4. All-season tires are basically copmpromise tires, able to handle a minimum standard of every type of road condition. A true all-terrain tire is designed and intended for use on dirt, grass, sand, and light mud, in addition to dry/wet/snowy road surfaces. Note that Dodge does NOT offer a true all-terrain tire from the factory.

    5. I added the ply ratibg to the designations above in #1. The more plies in a tire, the more air pressure it can sustain, and the more weight you can load. For 3/4 and 1 ton trucks, an E-rated tire will do everything the truck can - only seriously oversize tires would get away with a D rating.

    Community Leader/Smart Shopper Conference
  • dross4dross4 Member Posts: 1
    I am interested in the good and
    bad of the v-10. For me it is a
    toss up between the v-10 and the
    Cummins. Any help will be
  • shanethismshanethism Member Posts: 11
    I am really excited about getting rid of my 95 Chev. c3500 and buying a 2000 2500 QC, 4x4 long bed, 5.9 but have a couple of questions I'm sure Kcram could answer.
    First - I am a young pilot actively remodeling my home, so I don't consider the use of the truck to be heavy duty but I'm not getting it for show. I don't think the 1500 has the weight capacity plus I'll probably buy a boat in about 2 years so the 2500 part is not the question. The 4:10 part is the question. I've read just about every entry and still can't determine if the the 4:10 is necessary. I'll be getting the sport package so I think the 265's are standard but I will be doing some commuting and don't want to push the rpm's if I'm doing 80-85 on the highway. Guide me oh great one.
    Second - I have a dealer willing to order at $100 over invoice,(including the dealer prep crap and $500 advertising, $650 destination). Does that sound good considering he's getting 100% of the holdback.
    Lastly - Any idea on the true order time for South Florida.
    Thanks so much in advance for your help.
  • trambitistrambitis Member Posts: 21
    Thanks for your prompt and informative response to my Tires 101 queries. I continue to be impressed by the practicality of this web site!
  • kbutcher1kbutcher1 Member Posts: 27
    I just received a phone call from my Dodge saleman informing me that my new truck was just received (2000 Ram, quad cab, auto, slt+, sport package, 4.10, positrac,long bed, cummins) When I ordered the truck I explained to the salesman that I intend to tow a fifth wheel with the vehicle. He said that he could get the "new" towing mirrors that they are offering this year. I said great! Meanwhile while waiting for delivery of the truck, I did notice that the Dodge brochure does mention that the mirrors are a "late availability item. I figured that if they weren't available at the time they built my truck they would just put on the standard mirrors. WRONG. When the truck came in the factory had installed the "Butt ugly" SS towing mirrors you all are familiar with (tripod type with drilled holes in the side doors). I am not happy with this as I don't think you buy the the sport package and put such mirrors on the truck. Does anybody have any ideas? So far the dealer isn't coming up with any options. I am ready to cancel and go elsewhere. Beware if you think your new ram will come with those "flip out" towing mirrors in the brochure. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated on this.

  • shanethismshanethism Member Posts: 11
    Could some one explain to me how to become a member and how the discount applys when purchasing a new truck. Thanks for your help.
  • eric16eric16 Member Posts: 38
    You can join your state FB 30 days pior to buying your new dodge truck. Cost is about 30.00 for a year. Try to find your state site.

  • gwmooregwmoore Member Posts: 230
    I don't know why I forgot before, but one of the best rated heavy duty LT-rated tires is the Toyo.

    Thanks for the info on the Farm Bureau, I just sent my application in.
  • comptimecomptime Member Posts: 19
    I was at my dealer last night and we both think they are holding back on the new mirrors for the 2001 line (JAN) I know when we heard about the model line change was a surprise for us but I'm willing to bet It was no surprise to DC. I'm waiting for one to be delivered with the mirrors before I place my order. I guess that won't be until mid FEB.
  • teamviperteamviper Member Posts: 7
    GWMOORE: Please check out You will find a wealth of tire information. And you will find that it is tough to top Michelin's LTX,and Bridgestone's Duellers. I am certain that you will come to the same conclusion after looking at the tech data as well as the customer feedback.
  • kbutcher1kbutcher1 Member Posts: 27
    Randy, (comptime),

    Do you happen to know if the new mirrors are powered and heated? I recall the brochure mentioned that they were "manual" These mirrors are quite a mystery.

  • gwmooregwmoore Member Posts: 230
    The Toyo tires have a good reputation up here in the Northwest High Desert for holding up. They might not be the most common tire around, but you see alot of them up here, and most people really like them. We have lots of problems with sidewalls and LONG rocky roads causing blowouts, but the Toyos will hold up. I'm not sure about tread patterns etc. I'll check out the site.
  • shanethismshanethism Member Posts: 11
    Did I see a post saying you can't order any 2500's til after the first of the year. If true, would this be due to demand or some manufacturing problem. Will someone please tell me this is not true.
  • comptimecomptime Member Posts: 19
    That I don't know, I believe they are manual(almost positive) haven't heard or read anything about being heated. As soon as I hear anything I will post it here.
  • RichinKsRichinKs Member Posts: 412
    I may have started the rumor. Last Monday the Dodge 800 line told me all trucks are being held. Yesterday another dodge dealer told me no orders for 2500 and 3500 4x4 and some 1500's. My dealer today indicatied the line is held possibly for a lack of parts. Also he has several trucks built several weeks ago that are still sitting at the factory because of a rail car fiasco. Rich
  • KCRamKCRam Mt. Arlington NJMember Posts: 3,516
    Here is how they function:

    They are mounted on a single thick arm from the door, and are oriented vertically in trailer position. You can pivot the mirror head 90 degrees toward the body in a horizontal orientation for not trailer use. The arm itself can fold in against the body for tight spots. All adjustments are manual, and they are not heated.

    trailer position:
    | |
    | |
    ---------------- |
    | |

    "down" position:

    { |

    Community Leader/Smart Shopper Conference
This discussion has been closed.