There are various rebates based on a sales area. Most are for slow movers for that given sales area such as V6 and Extended cab, or 4X4 with V6, ect...
My tailgate has the flat topped protector which I like very much because of the fact I can comfortable stand on it. Apparently you can switch it out for the wrap around type if you have a topper etc. that it interferes with. My GM bed rail caps do match the tail gate cap in color and texture and have stake pockets with flush inserts (that will probably get lost or fall out as soon as they get used a bit).
Tim, Even though I ended up with a 99 instead of 2000 3/4 ton, I am sure glad I have it too. (Still need to get my pictures developed). Its been pure pleasure to drive. That wind noise I heard is NOT coming from the tires, brakes, or chassis.. it is like some wind is getting through in a slight way between the cracks of the side power mirror on the drivers side. I put my hand in front of it while driving and it stopped. I guess maybe I will take it in and have them seal it or replace it or something.
Mine be fine. No rattles..wind noise..nothing. Got about 2200 on it and loving every day of it. Highway is a dream....with just a slight tap on gas you go from 70 to 80 with ease. I can't keep it under 75! Will be going for a 800 mile trip soon....looking forward to that. Hunting season will bring all the off roading and 2 tracks...that will be fun. Getting the liner Tuesday..and maybe the guard? The boards and rail goodies will be soon after that. I'll post pics when it's all done up.
I've tried Tim's instructions for reprogramming the locks on my '99 Silverado, to no avail. So, I took my truck to the dealer this morning. They said at first that the locks could be reprogrammed, but after 30 minutes of sitting there in the waiting area, the service guy said that the locks could not be reprogrammed. Is this guy full of it? Has anyone actually had this done?
What is the Ride Control Switch? Someone mentioned they had that, they can switch from firm ride to whatever? What option package is that with? Did you have the firm ride suspension with yours? I am going to surpass your mileage soon. With one more trip to the north country (each trip is 700-800 miles).
I was wondering, since I really don't know about this....... when you are idling (at a stop light or similar situation) are you SUPPOSE to FEEL a slight purr of the engine? I mean feel, not hear- cause my truck is sooooo super quiet. But at a stoplight I can feel it purr/(on occasion) or maybe you can call it a slight soft shudder- is that normal?
The reason I ask is because I never had a BRAND NEW TRUCK, but I noticed that with brand new CARS-there is no feel of the purr, you can't even tell if its running. Maybe the trucks are suppose to be like this. Maybe I need to take it in and have it adjusted??? Don't know - need your advice.
Maybe its fine and I am paranoid. I must be goofy cause the first two weeks I almost didn't listen to the radio because I was listening for even the slightest noise or squeak, I am getting better now. What do you think??? Cindy
Mine is like that too. It's worse with the air on...not bad...but you feel it for sure. It may be the massive exhaust just resonating? I don't really want to take it in for that. Figured I'd wait a few more thousand miles...
I have the firm ride....it hits hard on a series of bumps...but has way more control on the highway at high speeds. The ride control is for people who want stiff for towing..but cushy grandpappy smooth for all other times. I think it's 2WD only?....I didn't want it anyway...
Change the oil yet?...I did mine at 1000...and will do it at 3000 again...then go to Mobil 1.
What tire pressure did yours come at? ...Go check..Mine was 40 all around...the door says 50 front..80 rear. I have been experimenting at 40/45/50 all around. 80 in the rear is too much when it's dry. If it was a full length bed..maybe..but not for a short box. Less bed and gas tank make for a real hard ride at 80. 40 was nice..but I wondered what was happening to the sidewalls. these type of tires need more than the average 32 psi.
I ordered my truck with the ZX3 ride control suspension and couldn't get GM to accept the order. I contacted a production control manager at GM Detroit and was told that the ZX3 suspension would not be available till Apr 00 (at the earliest). Changed my order to the firm ride Z85 and got an order # right away.
I polled the group a while back for anyone else that had ordered this option and got one hit. Said they had an order #. I would be interested to see if he actually gets the option.
At the end of the 99 production year (about Jun 99), GM started delivering orders without the trans cooler, which comes with the HD towing pkg. When the vehicles arrived, they had a $70 credit. They never bothered to inform the customer that a component of the option was not available. Heads up - you may want to check your vehicles on this one.
I'll be glad to see the day when GM gets their head out and actually allows you to order all the options that they advertise as "Available."
Will check my tire pressure and get back to you on that.
I have the firm ride suspension too, but did ya ever notice when you're on a grooved or irregular highway that the truck likes to bounce? I saw another poster say that you could really notice it with a cap on. On smooth highway it glides like its on air. Very nice accelerator at above 65mph speeds. That poster said he had rubber mounts replaced or something?
I will assume that purring is normal, it doesn't bother me at all anyway. So far so good with everything else, the CD player really kicks butt, doesn't it?
Can you tell me the proper way to use Autotrack (miles per hour when engaging each setting?). I looked it up (briefly) in the manual, did not see anything offhand.
You know the mini-console above, what the hell goes into the last compartment towards the rear? Dealer told me kleenex - NOT! Maybe packs of cigarrettes for the smokers??
Maybe it bounces too much cuz the rears have 80psi right now??....check them...Mine got a little bouncy at 50 psi...then i didn't notice it much?...maybe the suspension broke in?
For autotrack...just push the button...as long as you are not going 90!....Nothing really much more to say....Slower the better...to a certain point.
The last compartment...it's for people in the back to put goodies into...like wallets or what ever. If you notice it has hard sides on it...like it would be hard to access from the front seats. They got the indent in the rear of the console to put keys into....you got buckets..right?
Yes, have the buckets. Original order was for bench seats, now I am glad I got buckets. With the 40/20/40, access to the back seats would be a little harder - I mean reaching back for something you would have a full seat back in your way. I really dig the 6 cup holders total (funny, you can only seat 5 with buckets).
I just want to say to all who are waiting for their trucks to come in:
WHAT A HELL OF TRUCK YOU ARE ORDERING!!!!
I thought with Autotrak, you had to be slower than 15-20mph or stop before pushing 4W LOW? At 4W High it could be at 45mph or even lower? That was the standard I used for the regular stick method.
Keep in mind that compared to most new cars,the crankshaft in your truck is in-line with the driveshaft, where on transverse mount front wheel drive cars, the engine is in-line with the axles. (Sideways)
The purr you feel is torque reaction, and causes the body/cab to rock side to side. (Like when you gun it) On a front wheel drive car, the rocking is from front to back, and would be less noticeable. Should lessen as your engine loosens up from break-in. Go easy on a new engine, even if past the break-in period. Let it warm up before you drive off, vary your speed to promote even wear. Even though you are well beyond the arbitrary 500 mile break-in advisory, consider it is still new, still wearing, and you want it to be even. Now is not the time to be working it too hard, if you can avoid it.
I've had my Z71, 5.3L, Autotrack, Tow Pkg, Etc. Since 12/18/98. LOVE IT. Minor problems...sind noise in 3rd door window...fixed by replacing glass/latch/gasket, slight pull to right...alignment fixed...third door creak, fixed with latch adjustment....now almost perfect!
One thing though that makes me wonder....the transmission seems to "whine" at times in 1st/2nd gear. It makes a high pitch "whirring" sound. Seems to happen most after towing my 5,400. lb. travel trailer. But it also happens sometimes when it's cold for the first few miles. Doesn't do it all the time, and doesn't really bother me, but just wondering if it anything to be concerned about?
I let it idle until the coolant gauge is almost up to normal operating temperature range. When the temperature is at or above 165F, I take off, and still go easy until the oil is fully warmed, which takes longer. Perhaps I'm anal, but my oil consumption is nill, a good sign.
BTW, I don't sit in it while it warms up. I lock it, and walk away. Maybe I take worse risks than oil consumption, though.
I just bought a '99 Silverado Mark III conversion. A truly beautiful truck if ever there was one. Question: What are the HP and Torque ratings for the new LS4 5.3L (327ci)? I've heard as high as 270hp. It is based upon the Corvette LS1 so I am not surprised if the hp is around 270. It is gratifying to see such an increase over the prior L31 5.7L Vortec engine that created 255hp. I sure wish somebody would come out with plastic engine covers for the two valve covers. The coils aren't that nice and take away from that impressive Vortec unit.
i have a 1999 ls extened cab 1500 ( old model body style) i have had to change front brakes at 15000 miles and now at 21000 miles, i think i need them again. i tow a 20' pontoon boat, ( single axle trailer without trailer brakes ) it weighs about 2500 lbs. please send help!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I don't know what it was meant to be used for, but I've found that the last compartment in the overhead console holds CDs perfectly. You have to put the CD box in sideways, with the label to the side instead of to the rear opening. The elastic band holds them in place just fine.
Hi, I don't have any advice, but I also have the same truck (it's a '98, though, but the same nevertheless) and I was wondering what symptoms it is that you're feeling/hearing/smelling/seeing when it's time to change the brakes. Is it just squeaking? I have just over 10,000 miles on my truck (no towing whatsoever) and it's still fine, but I'd like to know in case it happens to me as well. I know the mushy brake pedal is one of the infamous things about GM trucks (prior to the Silverado/New Sierra, I mean). -powerisfun
brake fluid resolvor is low and the brake pedal travels farther. i live on a dirt road and started to hear a squeak. it was on and off at first, than all the time. we thought it was just dust, but it was the sensor. i think it is the weight of the boat that is making them go bad early. i just thought they would last longer.
Everything I've read says that the best way to warm up a vehicle is to drive it easily for the first 3-4 miles. Idling is actually a very harsh state of operation due, in part, to the fact that the water pump is not pumping fast enough to prevent hot spots from forming in the engine. Also, the engines are not optimized in that low of an rpm range. I would imagine your mileage is affected as well, and your hour meter running all that time will make it look like you have a really low average speed which will look bad if you plan to sell it some day. Anyway, just my input. I too am very anal when it comes to my truck. I won't even go through a drive-thru because I hate to have my truck idling even for that long. -powerisfun
I just got the 3/36 warranty. Chose not to opt for the extended...if it don't happen by 36K..it ain't gonna happen until 100K...and if it does in between....it will be cheaper than the warranty. Think about it....if they did not make money on them...why would they sell them?? Because they are sooo nice?...yeah right.
I stayed under 55 until 500...then went about 65-70 for a while...then about 1200 or so....jumped up to 80 on the highway. I start it up and leave right away. I can get on the highway in about 3/4 mile or take the scenic route and get on after about 4 miles. I almost always take the scenic in the morning....then it's 80 all the way until about 10 miles down...then about 10 more of city driving at about 50 or so.
Nothing wrong with being as anal as Quad and Poweris...but I choose not to be that picky. The drive thru thing is taking it too farr I think...but hey..to each his own. No problem here.
The old 99 model and back to 97 were famous for early brake failure. One of the points my dealer made early on was the oversized rotors and pads on the new style 99/00 trucks to overcome the problems that plagued the earlier models.
Anybody know how to visually find if the truck has a trans oil cooler? Mine was built in Feb 99 and had two stickers with it - one had the trans oil cooler, the other didn't.
BTW, I use the last overhead compartment to hold a couple cassettes.
The "transmission whine" you describe is actually the cooling fan being engaged with its clutch. If you look at your owner's manual in "cooling fan" section, it describes exatly what you have observed: ie during heavy loading, and awhile after you start your engine in the morning.
I agree that driving 3-4 miles warms the engine up faster than idling, and wastes less fuel. But the reason for warming up any engine, no matter how you do it, is to allow time for the different metal types to expand. If you hasten this, then parts will scuff until the dimensions stabilize.
You don't have to worry about hot spots from a slow turning water pump. In the first moments, the thermostat is blocking the flow of coolant until about 175F is reached.
I live in Southern California so the weather is not too cold normally. I have never warmed up any car I have ever owned, and I usually don't even drive that easily after starting. Never once have I had engine problems. Well, my Vega had engine problems, but I don't think that had anything to do with not warming up things. If I lived in a colder climate I would follow the manufacturers recomendations: let idle stabilize, drive easy for first few miles, and don't actually let the engine warm up fully at idle ... does nothing but waste gas.
anyone that doesn't think the 5.3 and 3.42 axle can perform.I just blew off a 4.9 newer mustang and it wasnt even close! Oh by the way Quad even with the 3.42 and the 255 generals and locker they were smoking and second gear chirp!
How 'bout them transmissions. Has anybody experienced any problems with them? Have two appointments with two different dealers to trouble shoot, would like some answers before then!
Since the old brakes were so bad there are several great aftermarket solutions for the old style Chevys. They really improve the truck but are expensive, around $1500 for the full treatment I think. But then no more mushy feel and shorter stopping distance. Look in the truck mags or web search for info.
Don't know where it is on the new trucks, but the one on my old truck (77 silverado) is directly below the radiator and behind the lower air dam. It is about 2 feet long, 4 inches high and 3 inches thick.
The best way to find it will be to find the transmission oil lines running from the tranny up front to the cooling fins. It should be up somewhere close to the radiator.
You can find a lot better info on the GTP in the sports cars board (and coupes and sedans), but I do like the engine. I haven't driven the Grand Prix, but I drove the Buick Regal GS which has the same engine. I was very impressed with the performance. It will definitely outrun any stock truck (and even most modified trucks), but it also weighs 2000 lbs. less.
About the brakes on C/K's: JCWhitney sells an aftermarket rear-disk brake conversion set for $645.00. If you're handy, it's probably a fairly easy job to do yourself. If you plan on keeping your truck instead of trading it in, that may be a good investment.
Warm-up (quadrunner): You're right about the thermostat thing (i.e. not opening till it's warmed up), but I think that would make idling even worse at start up. No fluid flow would cause poor heat dissipation (sp?) leading to things like one part of the block expanding while another part is not. While that would still occur with the car moving after start-up, the time would be less. I don't know, maybe there is no real difference, but I do know that I have read that idling at start up is not a good thing. -powerisfun
When the truck was new, and I started it cold, and put the transmission selector into "D," I noticed a slight diesel like rattling sound that went away if I put it back in "P" and just let it idle until it warmed up.
It all comes down to giving the different metals, which expand at different rates, time to stabilize dimensionally before putting them under stresses that can cause scuffing.
In our off-road motorcycles, where quite a few of us are accomplished enough to replace rings and pistons, everyone warms them up by idling them, and this was a good practice for a long time until we started having fuel crisis and OPEC embargos beginning in the seventies, the thinking began to change because idling engines do waste fuel. Older engines with carburetors didn't meter fuel as well idling, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers or plug fouling was an issue. But modern engines with fuel injection, closed loop controls, and platinum tip plugs run fine at idle, because they reach a self cleaning temperature.
So no matter how you choose to warm it up, driving it away slowly, or idling, the important thing is to not put stress or load on the engine until the temperature has stabilized. Remember, the engine does not run at just one temperature. The temperature is different wherever you choose to measure it. The coolant and oil are not at the same temperature, but you have only 1 temperature gauge to judge by. My engine still feels a bit tight even when the coolant is at normal temperature because the oil is still cool.
I purchased a 2000 last week, but I thought some of you might be interested in this. (The return e-mail is silverado_hdqtrs@nwcoughlin.com)
*********
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I Have a 99 3/4 ton Silverado LS. It has all the Bells and Whistles. I tow many different trailers and I've towed in tow-Haul most of the time. Do I need to use this mode all of the time, or can I just leave my truck in drive and use the tow-haul mode in heavy traffic and steep grades when the transmission is searching for gears? I have been driving Chevy Trucks since 1958 and by far this vehicle is the best yet. I read other Posts worrying about mileage. If you bought a truck, you weren't looking for mileage in the first place. If you were, then you need to go buy a 4 cylinder car and throw the boat and camper away. Get real people! I have a 3.73 rear-end, auto-trac 4 wheel drive, cooler, and all of the other stuff that's on a truck. It's still a truck and best of all it's a Chevy. The 300 Horses under the hood are awesome. I tow a 29 foot Travel trailer with ease. My engine with A/C on full blast never overheats. My Tranny Temp hangs at 180-185 and she just purrs along just the way the engineers designed her. What a great job she does, cuz she's a Chevy. What's my mileage? Who cares!
I just go off the Kelly Blue Book site (kbb.com) and noticed that they had an update for the 4th door, a price. $330.00 retail, $288.75 invoice, can someone confirm this anywhere else. This seems like a deal to me, and maybe indicates that they are getting close to releasing a build date.
about my tranny, since I have not gotten any responses; went to dealer today, there is definatly a problem. mechanic seems to think it is sensors, soleniod or programming. if mechanical, a new tranny will be put in it. also, there are two bulletins out from chevy regarding these problems. I hope nobody else has to deal with this. who would of thought a new transmission in a truck with 500 miles on it? Kyle
I just received a recall letter from Chevrolet where they determined that some 1999 Chevrolet Silverados equipped with 4.8L or 5.3L engines and 4L60-E automatic transmissions ordered with the heavy-duty trailering package may not have included the merchadising-intent auxiliary transmission oiler cooler even though it was supposed to be part of the package.
Chevy claims the truck will tow fine without the auxiliary cooler but the recall will install it at no charge or you have the option of a $175 refund.
I get that Diesel like sound too in the morning..as well as the tranny whine. They both go away right away...no biggee. I used to warm the engine up in the winter when I parked outside and had to remove the snow. It's always nice to drive away in warmth. With being in the garage now...I doubt I will do that. Heated seats will be nice...but I want real heat...so drive and create it! There is no wrong opinion here....all the methods mentioned are fine. We don't need to change oil at 3000 either these days...but I still do. It doesn't hurt anything....just like warming it up first.
Somewhere someone mentioned a clank when shifting into Reverse. Mine has a good thud as well....but when you see the size of the massive driveshaft and consider the weight....I'd say it is normal? I took mine in for a few things yesterday. A trim panel on the door was loose and there was a nick in the glovebox since I got it. They fixed both fine. I mentioned the clank...they checked it out..and said that "driveline pile up" is normal. I had mentioned about the slight roughness when at idle in gear. They tested the system for misfires and made sure it had the most recent updates in the puter. It was all fine. The repair order also said "Did re-learn (re-flash??)crank shaft sensor for VCM" At first I said to myself..what the hell is that? Turns out all I wanted was some minor cosmetics fixed...and the re-learn did cure something i didn't even realize. Looking back...It always seemed to shift into 4th at about 36-38...instead of 42 or so....sometimes even 35! Then you would drift back slower...but it would still stay in 4th.....you would need more gas...and you would get a slight sound like when you drive a stick and are in too low of gear (Only slightly). Now it stays like it should until you hit 42-45. If you keep it at constant 39 even..it stays where it should. I like this better because once you lose the momentum from the initial start off...and coast a bit....it's still in 3rd when you hit it again. if you don't understand what I'm saying...It just plain shifts better at better points now. if yours seems to go into 4th too soon....check into this. I guess the crank has a sensor that also "talks" to what the cam is doing as well. I liked my Chevelle better - A Block/Heads/intake/Carb - and a whole lotta room! heheheeee
Comments
Most are for slow movers for that given sales area such as V6 and Extended cab, or 4X4 with V6, ect...
Even though I ended up with a 99 instead of 2000 3/4 ton, I am sure glad I have it too. (Still need to get my pictures developed). Its been pure pleasure to drive. That wind noise I heard is NOT coming from the tires, brakes, or chassis.. it is like some wind is getting through in a slight way between the cracks of the side power mirror on the drivers side. I put my hand in front of it while driving and it stopped. I guess maybe I will take it in and have them seal it or replace it or something.
How's your truck doing? -Cindy
Getting the liner Tuesday..and maybe the guard? The boards and rail goodies will be soon after that. I'll post pics when it's all done up.
- Enjoy
- Tim
Thanks,
Ryan
Someone mentioned they had that, they can switch from firm ride to whatever? What option package is that with?
Did you have the firm ride suspension with yours?
I am going to surpass your mileage soon. With one more trip to the north country (each trip is 700-800 miles).
I was wondering, since I really don't know about this....... when you are idling (at a stop light or similar situation) are you SUPPOSE to FEEL a slight purr of the engine? I mean feel, not hear- cause my truck is sooooo super quiet. But at a stoplight I can feel it purr/(on occasion) or maybe you can call it a slight soft shudder- is that normal?
The reason I ask is because I never had a BRAND NEW TRUCK, but I noticed that with brand new CARS-there is no feel of the purr, you can't even tell if its running. Maybe the trucks are suppose to be like this. Maybe I need to take it in and have it adjusted??? Don't know - need your advice.
Maybe its fine and I am paranoid. I must be goofy cause the first two weeks I almost didn't listen to the radio because I was listening for even the slightest noise or squeak, I am getting better now. What do you think???
Cindy
I have the firm ride....it hits hard on a series of bumps...but has way more control on the highway at high speeds. The ride control is for people who want stiff for towing..but cushy grandpappy smooth for all other times. I think it's 2WD only?....I didn't want it anyway...
Change the oil yet?...I did mine at 1000...and will do it at 3000 again...then go to Mobil 1.
What tire pressure did yours come at? ...Go check..Mine was 40 all around...the door says 50 front..80 rear. I have been experimenting at 40/45/50 all around. 80 in the rear is too much when it's dry. If it was a full length bed..maybe..but not for a short box. Less bed and gas tank make for a real hard ride at 80. 40 was nice..but I wondered what was happening to the sidewalls. these type of tires need more than the average 32 psi.
Lemme know
- Tim
I polled the group a while back for anyone else that had ordered this option and got one hit. Said they had an order #. I would be interested to see if he actually gets the option.
At the end of the 99 production year (about Jun 99), GM started delivering orders without the trans cooler, which comes with the HD towing pkg. When the vehicles arrived, they had a $70 credit. They never bothered to inform the customer that a component of the option was not available. Heads up - you may want to check your vehicles on this one.
I'll be glad to see the day when GM gets their head out and actually allows you to order all the options that they advertise as "Available."
Hey GM - Still waiting for a build date!!!!
I have the firm ride suspension too, but did ya ever notice when you're on a grooved or irregular highway that the truck likes to bounce? I saw another poster say that you could really notice it with a cap on. On smooth highway it glides like its on air. Very nice accelerator at above 65mph speeds. That poster said he had rubber mounts replaced or something?
I will assume that purring is normal, it doesn't bother me at all anyway. So far so good with everything else, the CD player really kicks butt, doesn't it?
Can you tell me the proper way to use Autotrack (miles per hour when engaging each setting?). I looked it up (briefly) in the manual, did not see anything offhand.
You know the mini-console above, what the hell goes into the last compartment towards the rear? Dealer told me kleenex - NOT! Maybe packs of cigarrettes for the smokers??
For autotrack...just push the button...as long as you are not going 90!....Nothing really much more to say....Slower the better...to a certain point.
The last compartment...it's for people in the back to put goodies into...like wallets or what ever. If you notice it has hard sides on it...like it would be hard to access from the front seats. They got the indent in the rear of the console to put keys into....you got buckets..right?
- Tim
I just want to say to all who are waiting for their trucks to come in:
WHAT A HELL OF TRUCK YOU ARE ORDERING!!!!
I thought with Autotrak, you had to be slower than 15-20mph or stop before pushing 4W LOW? At 4W High it could be at 45mph or even lower? That was the standard I used for the regular stick method.
What kind of warranty did you get, Tim?
The purr you feel is torque reaction, and causes the body/cab to rock side to side. (Like when you gun it) On a front wheel drive car, the rocking is from front to back, and would be less noticeable. Should lessen as your engine loosens up from break-in. Go easy on a new engine, even if past the break-in period. Let it warm up before you drive off, vary your speed to promote even wear. Even though you are well beyond the arbitrary 500 mile break-in advisory, consider it is still new, still wearing, and you want it to be even. Now is not the time to be working it too hard, if you can avoid it.
Thanks though.
I tried to put a small travel size box of kleenex (how gay) but, it wouldn't close. Its for whatever you can fit in there, wallet sounds good.
One thing though that makes me wonder....the transmission seems to "whine" at times in 1st/2nd gear. It makes a high pitch "whirring" sound. Seems to happen most after towing my 5,400. lb. travel trailer. But it also happens sometimes when it's cold for the first few miles. Doesn't do it all the time, and doesn't really bother me, but just wondering if it anything to be concerned about?
BTW, I don't sit in it while it warms up. I lock it, and walk away. Maybe I take worse risks than oil consumption, though.
I don't know what it was meant to be used for, but I've found that the last compartment in the overhead console holds CDs perfectly. You have to put the CD box in sideways, with the label to the side instead of to the rear opening. The elastic band holds them in place just fine.
John
I don't have any advice, but I also have the same truck (it's a '98, though, but the same nevertheless) and I was wondering what symptoms it is that you're feeling/hearing/smelling/seeing when it's time to change the brakes. Is it just squeaking? I have just over 10,000 miles on my truck (no towing whatsoever) and it's still fine, but I'd like to know in case it happens to me as well. I know the mushy brake pedal is one of the infamous things about GM trucks (prior to the Silverado/New Sierra, I mean).
-powerisfun
state of operation due, in part, to the fact that the water pump is not pumping fast enough to prevent hot spots from forming in the engine. Also, the engines are not optimized in that low of an rpm range. I would imagine your mileage is affected as well, and your hour meter running all that time will make it look like you have a really low average speed which will look bad if you plan to sell it some day.
Anyway, just my input.
I too am very anal when it comes to my truck. I won't even go through a drive-thru because I hate to have my truck idling even for that long.
-powerisfun
I just got the 3/36 warranty. Chose not to opt for the extended...if it don't happen by 36K..it ain't gonna happen until 100K...and if it does in between....it will be cheaper than the warranty. Think about it....if they did not make money on them...why would they sell them?? Because they are sooo nice?...yeah right.
I stayed under 55 until 500...then went about 65-70 for a while...then about 1200 or so....jumped up to 80 on the highway. I start it up and leave right away. I can get on the highway in about 3/4 mile or take the scenic route and get on after about 4 miles. I almost always take the scenic in the morning....then it's 80 all the way until about 10 miles down...then about 10 more of city driving at about 50 or so.
Nothing wrong with being as anal as Quad and Poweris...but I choose not to be that picky. The drive thru thing is taking it too farr I think...but hey..to each his own. No problem here.
- Tim
BTW, I use the last overhead compartment to hold a couple cassettes.
The "transmission whine" you describe is actually the cooling fan being engaged with its clutch. If you look at your owner's manual in "cooling fan" section, it describes exatly what you have observed: ie during heavy loading, and awhile after you start your engine in the morning.
You don't have to worry about hot spots from a slow turning water pump. In the first moments, the thermostat is blocking the flow of coolant until about 175F is reached.
I have heard both products are top of the line in their category but would appreciate any comments from current/past owners.
Also, has anyone experienced difficulty installing a rail system Tonneau cover with current '00 tailgate covers?
>last compartment<
I use it for my wallet.
Richard
Some will still swear otherwise though.
The solution ADJUST THE REAR BRAKES OFTEN. Guys in the shop go about 40-50k on the front brakes if you keep them adjusted in the rear.
The best way to find it will be to find the transmission oil lines running from the tranny up front to the cooling fins. It should be up somewhere close to the radiator.
About the brakes on C/K's:
JCWhitney sells an aftermarket rear-disk brake conversion set for $645.00. If you're handy, it's probably a fairly easy job to do yourself. If you plan on keeping your truck instead of trading it in, that may be a good investment.
Warm-up (quadrunner):
You're right about the thermostat thing (i.e. not opening till it's warmed up), but I think that would make idling even worse at start up. No fluid flow would cause poor heat dissipation (sp?) leading to things like one part of the block expanding while another part is not. While that would still occur with the car moving after start-up, the time would be less. I don't know, maybe there is no real difference, but I do know that I have read that idling at start up is not a good thing.
-powerisfun
It all comes down to giving the different metals, which expand at different rates, time to stabilize dimensionally before putting them under stresses that can cause scuffing.
In our off-road motorcycles, where quite a few of us are accomplished enough to replace rings and pistons, everyone warms them up by idling them, and this was a good practice for a long time until we started having fuel crisis and OPEC embargos beginning in the seventies, the thinking began to change because idling engines do waste fuel. Older engines with carburetors didn't meter fuel as well idling, carbon buildup in the combustion chambers or plug fouling was an issue. But modern engines with fuel injection, closed loop controls, and platinum tip plugs run fine at idle, because they reach a self cleaning temperature.
So no matter how you choose to warm it up, driving it away slowly, or idling, the important thing is to not put stress or load on the engine until the temperature has stabilized. Remember, the engine does not run at just one temperature. The temperature is different wherever you choose to measure it. The coolant and oil are not at the same temperature, but you have only 1 temperature gauge to judge by. My engine still feels a bit tight even when the coolant is at normal temperature because the oil is still cool.
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I have been driving Chevy Trucks since 1958 and by far this vehicle is the best yet. I read other Posts worrying about mileage. If you bought a truck, you weren't looking for mileage in the first place. If you were, then you need to go buy a 4 cylinder car and throw the boat and camper away. Get real people! I have a 3.73 rear-end, auto-trac 4 wheel drive, cooler, and all of the other stuff that's on a truck. It's still a truck and best of all it's a Chevy. The 300 Horses under the hood are awesome. I tow a 29 foot Travel trailer with ease. My engine with A/C on full blast never overheats. My Tranny Temp hangs at 180-185 and she just purrs along just the way the engineers designed her. What a great job she does, cuz she's a Chevy. What's my mileage? Who cares!
Kyle
Chevy claims the truck will tow fine without the auxiliary cooler but the recall will install it at no charge or you have the option of a $175 refund.
There is no wrong opinion here....all the methods mentioned are fine. We don't need to change oil at 3000 either these days...but I still do. It doesn't hurt anything....just like warming it up first.
Somewhere someone mentioned a clank when shifting into Reverse. Mine has a good thud as well....but when you see the size of the massive driveshaft and consider the weight....I'd say it is normal?
I took mine in for a few things yesterday. A trim panel on the door was loose and there was a nick in the glovebox since I got it. They fixed both fine. I mentioned the clank...they checked it out..and said that "driveline pile up" is normal. I had mentioned about the slight roughness when at idle in gear. They tested the system for misfires and made sure it had the most recent updates in the puter. It was all fine. The repair order also said "Did re-learn (re-flash??)crank shaft sensor for VCM" At first I said to myself..what the hell is that?
Turns out all I wanted was some minor cosmetics fixed...and the re-learn did cure something i didn't even realize. Looking back...It always seemed to shift into 4th at about 36-38...instead of 42 or so....sometimes even 35! Then you would drift back slower...but it would still stay in 4th.....you would need more gas...and you would get a slight sound like when you drive a stick and are in too low of gear (Only slightly). Now it stays like it should until you hit 42-45. If you keep it at constant 39 even..it stays where it should. I like this better because once you lose the momentum from the initial start off...and coast a bit....it's still in 3rd when you hit it again. if you don't understand what I'm saying...It just plain shifts better at better points now. if yours seems to go into 4th too soon....check into this. I guess the crank has a sensor that also "talks" to what the cam is doing as well.
I liked my Chevelle better - A Block/Heads/intake/Carb - and a whole lotta room!
heheheeee
- Tim