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Also they can shave at least 500-1000 more off that car's price and still make a decent profit.
1. How do I get the contact info for the internet sales department? carsdirect.com gives me one contact for my address.
2. When you guys say 500 above invoice is a good deal, do you mean the invoice on edmunds.com or the edmunds invoice PLUS MACO & training (~560).
3. Why are the internet sales people more willing to give better deals?
thanks for your help
"It is great that we all do our homework when it comes to any major purchases.
1. Your base price is way off, fees attached to the invoice are part of the invoice, they are non negotiable.
2. All lease rates are month to month and apply only to state side orders, regardless of order dates.
3. You will have price protection.
4. The lease rates are non- negotiable ( finance will receive a flat fee ). That rate will not cost you 4k over the lease period. ( Please check your source ).
5. Your savings are set by the manufactory. BMW of Houston North will receive a flat fee for handling the paperwork. Nobody makes 10k from your purchase and 4k from your finance.
I am not sure where you received your information but It is terribly incorrect.
I will have Heather cancel your paperwork and I will call The Euro Dept to have them cancel your order.
Please reference ( Edmunds.com, KBB.com, AAA.com etc. ). These site are a lot more reliable.
Thanks for your time."
Now what should I do????
I'd suggest you visit the ED forum http://bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=25 at Bimmerfest.com. The guys there can hook you up with a Houston dealer who will not jerk you around like this.
If you're doing ED and he's charging ED MSRP he's making an obscene amount of money on the deal. It's unfortunate salesmen like that exist as they give the manufacturer and the profession a bad name.
If you do a car through ED neither MACO nor Training is listed on the invoice.
I honestly don't mind paying it but I am more concerned to know if it is part of the MSRP which will affect my monthly on the lease. Thanks again.
First... re-negotiating after you've agreed to a deal might be a bit difficult.. Usually, after someone has already made their deal, I suggest learning to love it, and come back next time for advice, before you buy..
But, anyway.. we'll take a stab at it..
$48320 US MSRP
$41500 approx. ED invoice
$43000 Selling price ($1500 over is reasonable anywhere)
$43625 CAP cost (selling price + $625 acq.fee)
58% residual
.00200 money factor (.0017 + .0003 ED bump)
Payment = $577/mo.+ tax..
Due at signing = 1st payment, security deposit, tax, title/license fees
($577, $600, $2750, $300) about $4200 total.
**I get $2750 for tax by multiplying 6.25% by the CAP cost, which I believe is correct for Texas**
You don't have to pay the tax upfront... you can roll it into the CAP cost (it still gets paid upfront by the bank). If you roll the $2750 of tax into the lease, it raises the payment to $659/mo.
The main differences between your lease and this scenario?
a) $2500 less on selling price
b) your MF marked up .0001
c) No security deposit on your lease.. .00015 MF waiver fee
I think your $3721 upfront includes the 1st payment and title/license fees.. but, the real cost difference between your deal and this scenario is about $4000.
Is it worth trashing your deal? Have you already bought non-refundable plane tickets? Lodging reservations, etc, etc, etc.? Do you know for sure that you can get the deal that I've laid out? Are you willing to fly out of town to pick up your car, if you can get the deal?
Lots of questions..
Hope this helps a little..
kyfdx
PS: Either way, you picked a really nice car!!
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If that's so, her dealer marked up her MF just 1 point, so that's not so bad. What is bad, that selling price. Yikes.
Nothing gets past you guys...
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MSRP: $42175
Price: $40398
Residual: 63%
(Rate: 2.3?)
Acq. Fee: 775
Payment: $529
Any good?
My salesman also failed to tell me that sales tax roll it into the CAP cost. He said that for Texas all sales tax and TT&L had to be paid upfront!
I will more than likely cancel this order and look for something better. If you know of any dealers who can give me the same deal specified by kyfdx, than don't hesitate to let me know.
Thanks guys for your help!!!
IMO, Ky's scenario is even conservative as he put $1,500 over ED invoice. $1,000 over should be very doable. With $4,000 to $4,500 saving over a 3-year lease, we are talking about 20% difference in monthly payment.
There is abundant information regarding ED in the link blueguy provided. You will find a lot of very knowledgeable people willing to offer advice and help. There are also sponsoring dealers specialized in ED.
Best of luck.
MSRP 34450
Selling price 32855
MF .00125
security deposit 350
residual .64
Total out of pocket
$3780
10k miles/36 months
monthy payment including tax 336.92
This is in southern california......
I think it is good but i could be wrong....
appreciate any input...
One comment on the lease structure: If you can afford additional $50 in monthly payment, I would recommend you put 7 additional security deposits instead of in cap cost reduction. With 7 MSD, you can reduce MF by .00049 and get the deposit back at lease-end.
Will
1. If you do MSD, each deposit will be $400 instead of $350 because the monthly payment will be in the higher bracket.
2. You mentioned early on that you have a trade. You can always get more by selling it privately. However, if you do plan to trade, do you homework for the fair value before getting in. Use kbb.com or get a quote from CarMax. I would hate to see you get a good deal and then give it all back on your trade-in.
manual transmission
heated seats
power seats
rear sunshades
metallic paint
MSRP: 39,095
Negotiated price: 35,860
MF: .00216 (reduced from .00265 with 7 MSD's)
12k/yr.
$24,238 residual (62%)
$825 acquisition fee (which dealer says is mandatory from BMW)
$452.62/month with $3266 out of pocket to cover 5% MD taxes, tags, and acq. fee
Good deal? I love the negotiated price, but I'm uncertain about the MF and the acq. fee. Given the low price, however, I'm wondering if I can do much better.
Thanks,
Kevin
Also his MF is marked up the full 4 points. He's getting you on the backend of the deal.
Additionally, the residual on a 328xi wagon for 12k miles a year is 63%.
I sensed the same things, but I wonder if I can really do any better than this. Seems like they're either going to get me on the negotiated price or their going to get me with the MF, fees, and residual.
I guess I just need to speak with more dealers (though this was substantially better than what I was offered at another dealer a few weeks back)
Write down exactly what you want, exactly what the invoice is and send that plus the dealer profit.
Mention the MF, acquisition fees, etc.
At the end of the lease, I understand there is typically an option to buy the car. Does anyone know how the buy-option price is calculated? If I lease the car with a .58 residual, is the price then .58 of the selling price or MSRP?
Thanks
I’m looking to lease a 2007 328i Sedan and have questions. Any help would be very much appreciated.
Regarding ED, I’ve read in numerous posts that BMW pays the second payment of the lease. I don’t see this information on the BMW web site. Is this something I need to ask for?
If I roll all my taxes into the lease, will BMW be helping to pay my taxes by paying that second payment on a ED lease?
When I look at the monthly lease specials on the BMW web site, is the acquisition fee already included in that payment amount? The text of the ads indicate that it is, but I want to be sure.
For those who are also in Chicago, do you have suggestions on the best approaches to avoiding the onerous taxation that occurs on both the full sales price and the “use tax” which I’ve heard applies to the monthly payment amount?
I’ve been “preparing” to but a BMW sedan since the launch of the E46. You’d think I’d know all this by now!
Thanks for help with any of these questions.
-DJB
Yes about taxes.
Ignore BMW lease specials - they're worthless. When you order a car via ED a few things to remember:
MSRP - this is used to figure out your residual. It's vitally important that they use US MSRP for figuring your residual.
Negotiated ED price - this should be about 4500-5500 off MSRP. This is very important. Fine the European Delivery Invoice pricing. The ED pricing on the BMW site is a major ripoff and only scummy dealers will try to use that on.
When you do ED, contact the dealership by email. Layout the total cost of the car using european delivery invoice pricing. Be sure to include the normal shipping charge. At the end clearly write down the dealer profit (usually $1000).
Finally, get in writing what the acquisition fees will be, how many points above the buy rate the dealer will mark up the money factor (Note: all BMW ED leases get 0.0003 points added automatically). Get them to note ever fee they will charge you.
Finally, when you lease by ED you can use which lease rate is the best during the construction of your vehicle up to the 14 days before pickup. 14 days before pickup you will finalize the lease and make your first month's payment.
Visit the european delivery forum here and at bimmerfest.com/forums for more info on ED.
I've been looking into Leasing a 335i Coupe. I'm new here and noticed you keep posting the latest Residual Value and Money Factors. Are these from BMW Finacial? The one dealer I have spoken to so far mentioned 0.0025 (6%). How can I back your numbers up, so that I have a leg to stand on with the dealer?
I think I should be asking the dealer for the following:
$1500 off MSRP (w/Prem, Sport and Comfort)
36 mo/10k mi
MF = 0.0017
Residual = 61%
Does this seem like I'm asking for too much or not enough?
Thanks in advance.
BMW's lease factors for the 335i coupe:
24 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 68% of MSRP – .00170 Money Factor Buy Rate
36 mo/15k mi – Residual Value 58% of MSRP – .00170 Money Factor Buy Rate
A dealer claiming 0.0025 is marking that up to a level that goes beyond anything BMW even allows (0.0004); unless you're talking about a european delivery (0.0003 extra) and no security deposit (0.0001 extra).
I've seen you mention several times that when proposing a deal, we should list all of the components we want and also not the dealer profit. How are we supposed to know what the profit is?
For example, the other day the dealer offered me a price that was below invoice but then jacked up the MF. They told me they wouldn't negotiate on the MF because that was how they were going to be making money on the deal. I wasn't sure how to respond.
So how do we know what to say the dealers' profit will be?
Thanks
http://bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=99
As for the MF markup and profit. Do the math on a marked up MF v. $300 more in dealer profit. A high MF and overpriced acquisition price can cost you much more over the life of the lease.
leaseguide.com has a calculator you can use to figure a lease cost with different MFs.
Thanks in advance.
I've checked my credit score (FICO score) online before applying for the lease. Based on my FICO score, my credit rating was good (just below excellent). However, when the dealer ran my credit, I was put on a Tier 4. Does auto industry not use FICO score? I am very confused. Please help.
This would be a good question to post here:
Credit Scores and Vehicle Financing
Try posting there, and see if anyone has the information you need.
regards,
kyfdx
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