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BTW, if you are getting NAV and hope to use it in Eurpoe you need to know that BMW will not give you a DvD disc for Europe. You can buy one but can't even borrow one.....go figure!
Why Auto? This car screams for an MT. Or, if you have to compromise, had you considered SMG?
Congratulations on your order - great car.
May I ask, what did that $2k over ED invoice price work out to be? And the name of the dealer? I seem to recall you are in the Maryland area? I had been quoted $1,200 over ED invoice on a 5-series back in 2003 by Passport BMW. Perhaps the pricing has gone up a bit since then.
The TL is a nice car for $33.5k and offers a nice blend of sporty performance, attractive interior and lots of useful features. But it's not as roomy inside as I originally thought and the seat comfort is pretty poor for long trips. As our kids grow, I could see the possibility of trading up to the 5 series. Prior to 2004 redesign, I would have gone for a 530i 5-speed. But with the engine improvements for 2004, the 545i 6-speed is at the top of my list. Especially since the M5 will only come with an SMG transmission, or so I hear.
Good luck with your purchase. How long before your trip?
'02 530 Auto/Sport/Prem/Xenon 23,900 miles -- asking $36,470---talked to salesman who said "they've had it over 30 days and want to move it" (FL dealer)
'01 530 Auto/Sport/Prem/Xenon/Cold Weather/In Dash CD player, 31,300 miles, asking $34,000 (OH dealer)
'01 530 Auto/Sport/Prem/Xenon/In Dash CD player, 34,400 miles, asking $37,900 yikes!!! (NC dealer)
01 530i with Sport Premium
KBB has pp value at 20550 and edmunds has the pp value at 25550.
I would appreciate any suggestions on a fair asking price for the car - or any offers.
Derek
2003 530iA, premium, sports, DVD navigation, xenon, rear seat side air bags, parking assistance alarm(?, if that's what it's called), 15500 miles, asking 42000. Good deal? Great deal? Not so good? Carfax checks out okay. TMV puts this car at 45000 or so. Thanks for the comments.
Seeing it is almost $7k below Blue Book it is a hard deal to pass up....am I nuts to pass up or nuts to buy? Any advice on buying a theft title? Man I really want a 540.......Muchas Danke in advance
Mook
04 530i - 13K miles
Premium Pkg
automatic
xenon headlights
$44,950
04 530i - 7K miles
Premium Pkg
automatic
$46,900
Do these sound fair or do you think I have a little more room to negotiate?
Thanks!
Do you think $45k or $47k is a fair price for a used car that you could buy brand new for $47.3k?? If you do, I'd be interested in selling my next car to you after I've driven it a year or two.
I understand that some dealers try to get near new prices for used cars. But that doesn't mean you have to buy one. Personally, unless I could get at least 15-20% off a low mileage used car, I'd go for a new one. And I'm referring to actual market price for a new car, not the MSRP.
Also, for what it's worth, I priced out the European Delivery price on a 530i w/ premium, auto and xenons. At $1,500 over ED invoice, you could get that car for $43,500.
European Delivery: Experience, Advice, & Info
BMW Owners: European Delivery
kirstie_h
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The car is so popular, so new, etc. that the dealer has no reason to reduce the price more than ~ $500-$1500 off of sticker.
Any suggestions on how to overcome this or is this simply the truth?
Specifics: 530i, SP PP, Zenons. 36K miles. Stick. Can buy for $29K.
Lease-end costs: $375 lease return fee, 4 new tires at about $200 each.
Edmunds lists trade-in price at $30,750, private party sale at $32,205 and Retail certified over $37K.
If I buy it, I would keep it at least another 3 years. But I probably would what to have it CPO'd for the extended warranty. Does it make financial sense to buy it or to return it?
Is there any way I can negotiate a better buy out deal with BMWFS?
I really doubt you could negotiate a lower price, considering what they are going for in the open market.
Tires really aren't part of the equation.. You have to buy them either way.
regards,
kyfdx
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I'd get an opinion of someone very knowledgeable at the dealership.
I love the car. I could easily keep it for another 3 years. I was asking myself, would I buy this same car today, with 36K miles for $34K+? There are other cars I may consider, such as a 330i with performance package, or G35 Coupe or .... But to buy the 530i at $29K, now I am torn.
Are there any probs with particular year models.
What oem/aftermarket equipment is the most desirable?
Should I be worried about buying a BMW with 130k miles already?
What kind of maintenance should I expect to be coming on BMW's of this age and miles? - engine, trans, electronics...etc
Any comments would be greatly app. I enjoy the topics and replies in this forum.
Thanks in advance for any and all help.
kirstie_h
Roving Host & Future Vehicles Host
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
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I certainly wouldn't consider buying one unless I had all the service records and those records show the owner knew about proper maintenance. I wouldn't consider buying an E39 if all the owner did was follow BMW's minimal maintenance schedule.
What 5 series, '95-'97, (or maybe a diff year, i don't know) should I be looking for?
I hear there are some diffs in the stearing linkages that seriously effects feel.
Not sure exactly what you mean regarding the steering. For example, in the E39 platform, the V8s used recirculating ball while the I6s used rack-and-pinion. The new E60 platform has gone entirely to rack-and-pinion steering. I don't know about the E34 platform (not sure if it was all recirculating ball or not).
Keep in mind that in the 1990s, before MY1997 there was the E34 platform. Then the E39 platform was introduced in CY1996 as a MY1997 and it ran thru MY2003. Now there is the E60 platform. They are 3 entirely different platforms with entirely different issues. The E34s introduced the V8s (the 3.0L and 4.0L V8s) and had the V8 Nikasil debacle (catastrophic engine failure). You have to be really careful to ensure any E34 V8 you look at has Alusil.
One nice things about E34s is that they were before BMW's free maintenance and before the very extended intervals. If an E34 has been properly maintained, it has had a lot more maintenance than an early E39.
You'd be best off looking only at manual transmissions. If properly maintained, they are bulletproof (esp. the Getrags).
It needs to be a stick shift --- I find automatics boring on powerful cars like this.
I'd prefer a car that hasn't done more than 75,000 miles or so, and I'm flexible on the color --- though I do prefer black, white or silver.
What's a good price I should be looking at ?
Thanks
I would like to find out where can I find the European delivery invoice $ pricing for the BMW 545i
ThX
Start back about five pages and get a feel for the info needed, then post your question there.
regards,
kyfdx
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Points learned:
1. CPO price can vary significantly from dealer to dealer and may be negotiable (depends on dealer)
2. MMR may be used instead of contract price (also depends on the dealer).
I'm also pretty certain that any BMW dealer can sell this to you... I think the spread over cost is about $500, so some might discount it.. Also, if you buy it from a dealer out of state, then you don't pay sales tax (don't start on the legalities, please). This plan is only about 2 months old, so some dealers may not be that familiar with it.
I'm assuming you have an '02... If the original maintenance plan hasn't expired, you could also add the extended maintenance plan to match the warranty.. Not sure of the price on a 5-series, but on a 3-series it is just under $1400. That would cover the cost of your brakes.. However, if you are out ofyour original maintenance plan, this isn't an option.
By going this route, you can keep the dealer out of your lease buyout deal.. You pay the residual directly to BMWFS and cut out any middleman deals.
regards,
kyfdx
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Kyfdx brings ups the best point, work with BMWFS (only) and cut the middleman out and thats a whole lot more than $500 ............
Terry.
So I don't believe it's the truth. Given that, try calling some dealerships that are a bit more remote. You're likely to come across someone who will give you a deal. Good luck.
Terry.
There is another factor, the extended warranty. Kyfdx is right (thank you Kyfdx), I can buy the same CPO warranty from BMW without having the car certified. The warranty appears to be identical to the CPO warranty. However, I called 2 dealers and got slightly different stories about maximum mileage to purchase it (40K) and of course price ($2950). I will call another dealer to clarify and get something in writing.
At 3 or 4 weeks before lease end is the time you need to be on the horn with a Regional or District lease manager at Bimmerland ... right now, the dealer doesn't know what it will be worth, it could be $28,5, it could be $29,3 or it could be $22,9 .. all he is showing you is an average, a maybe too keep your interest based on the residual ..
**I think I am hedging my bet to get the best deal. Am I right?**
Just like my great Grand Daddy used to say: I hate paying for the same real estate twice ...... your deal is through BMW, if I remember correctly this will expire in December(?) the market will change by then and the Bimmer office will look at the auction reports and make a decision on the buy-out, the dealer doesn't pay less than you .. I have a feeling if you keep messing with the dealer your going to end up buying their car .l.o.l...
Terry.
I was under the impression that in order to get the BMW extended warranty (and better financing rate), I had to get the car certified through the dealer. Now I find out (thanks to kyfdx) that BMW has a warranty program that does not require you to have the car CPO'd. This changes things.
And if you can gage consumer interest versus the competition, look at the number of posts here versus say the Acura RL forum - sometimes 10-to-1 in favor of the RL over the same time period.
This is assuming that the car requires minimal re conditioning (tires are OK), and no out of warranty stuff needs to be fixed. If all you are interested in is the extended warranty, the dealer can also be less diligent during the CPO process.
So the two deals are:
1. Negotiate with BMWFS + pay retail for warranty and maintenance program.
2. Negotiate a CPO price with the dealer up front, turn the car in and buy it again from the dealer.
You could use the negotiated price with BMWFS as a starting point with the dealer. The fact that the price of the CPO like warranty is much less for the dealer should work in your favor.