Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair

600kgolfgt

Using the wrong octane fuel doesn't cause turbos to wear out prematurely. Turbos can wear out due to the following conditions:

1) Shutting off the engine immediately after driving at highway speeds - Turbocharged vehicles should be idled for a couple of minutes until the engine oil temperature stabilizes and cools down the turbo's main bearing. Over time, the overheated oil will cook - causing a condition called "coking" - which clogs turbo's oil passages to the bearing, eventually resulting in premature bearing wear and ultimately - failure.

2) Not changing the oil at the recommended intervals. If you are using a conventional motor oil in a turbocharged engine, going more than 10% over the recommended mileage interval will result in the condition described in condition #1.

As long as you use synthetic oil, and avoid conditions #1 and #2, There's no reason the turbo shouldn't last as long as the engine itself.

redryder

We have an 02 with 60K that just had it's warped rear rotors replaced for the secontime in 13 months. Fronts have never been turned or replace.

Local Brake shop claim rear rotor problem frequencey is high on late model VW's. Dealer claims since they are "thinner" they warp easy. Info I could have used at the time og purchase.

This is one of many snivels I have with this car.

redryder

"02" Passat Wagon - For us the second set of warped rear rotors is indeed the last straw. Front rotors are still fine. We are now selling the car. It's a shame. For us it's little things that repeatly fail.Brake Rotors twice, Window washing system 3 times, Dash board lights, front headlight. The list goes on.
Get another car !

altair4

You said:
"I'm currently considering on a 2004 GL Passat or a 2005 DX Accord....It seems hard to beat the reliability of an Accord though."

I dunno about that. I'm on the Honda Accord boards here (we owe a '97), and the recent models don't seem up to the Honda reputation of the late 80's thru the mid 90's.

cdilger

dfmarcus,
I have the same problem but the dealer I contacted didn't know anything about it. Is it a software problem and what exactly does the dealer has to do?
Thank you.

dfmarcus

Talk to the service manager. This is a known problem. Check out vwvortex forums and bring in some printouts.

You can also call Don at Quirk VW in Braintree MA. He fixed mine.

cdilger

Hey, thank you! I just called Don...he gets a lot of calls lately, he told me.

Just to releave him...
There is a Software Update available from VW to update the software of the Transmission Control Module for harsh shifting. The dealer can find information about that update under the Technical Bulletin of the VW Webpage (it's probably a intranet page accessible for dealer only).

Viel Fahrvergnuegen!

t3lt1ctz

Hi all,
Few months ago I bought this used passat,everything seems nice,i love the ride and everything...but it has 79K miles alraedy,so I get the timing belt replace in local workshop,cause it cost like 1000 in dealership,i just get it for arround half price.But after that,there's is a sound coming from the engine/below it...its like a rotor sound,when I press the pedal[makes something spin],it's makes more noise following the spin.

Do you guys have any idea what happen?And when the engine warm,the sound is barely noticeable,only in the morning or when the engine is cool,the mechanic said,it the piston,coz he said once I forgot to check the oil,and it's already like half from the normal level.Turbo engines burn oil huh?Which dealership have the ebst services in Southern California?I really appreciate anyone who respond.

jeffshoe

I don't have any suggestions, but I can empathize. My 2000 Passat Wagon V-6 just began doing the same thing to me this week. It is approaching 60,000 miles and the "Emissions Workshop" prompt now lights up with the check engine light.

leevm

I have been having the same problem with my dashboard. I have a 2001.5 Passat. I took it to the dealership and the guy told me it was just the leather rubbing, but after they put felt in the area, the clicking noise was still there. I asked him if there was a problem with the clip because I read on other message boards that the clips for the Passat can't handle the bumps on the road, so you'll get that rattling noise coming from the dashboard. Someone on another message board said something about an updated clip kit. Does anyone know anything about this? The service advisor told me there was nothing wrong with the car even though he heard the noise during one of our test drives. He was quite defensive about the whole thing, so I think there is a known problem. They just don't want to fix it. Does anyone know any good VW service departments in the Bay Area?

fish8

I had the same problem with my 2004.5 Passat. I heard a rattle coming from the passenger side dash. It took 2 trips to the dealer for them to isolate the rattle. They did tell me it was a dash clip that was broken from the factory. After the 2nd visit, the rattle was fixed. They did have to pull the dash, but unlike other visits from the same dealer, they put the dash back perfectly. As of today, the noise is gone. Actually, when I called the dealer the first time to make an appointment, I explained what the problem was and he said it was a common issue with Passats and he knew exactly what it was. Why they couldn't fix it the first time I do not know.

So, take you car to another dealer and insist it be fixed. But, since you are out of warranty, it will cost you $$.

Good Luck.

leevm

Yeah, I know it will cost $$, but I wasn't willing to pay if they weren't willing to figure out the exact problem first. Plus, the service advisor acted like they've never heard of this problem before in VW when I heard one of the mechanics explaining to one of the other service advisors that he heard the same problem in a few other VW models. I'm planning on going to another service department this week. We'll see what happens.

engineerman

You are very fortunate. I had the same experience with my 2001.5 Passat. It developed a rough idle between 33,000 service and 36,567 miles when I took it in for next oil change. Rough idle was not terrible, so did not rush in to dealer. BIG MISTAKE! Dealer was only able to get VW to cover 50% of $522.67 repair of "throttle valve" replacement. Dealer told me if I had come in before 36,000 miles and 3 years after delivery, this would have been covered 100%! It had been in service 3 years and 9 weeks and exceeded mileage by 567 miles. I have tried twice to get increased coverage by calling and e-mailing VW customer care - to no avail. It is too bad they will not cover this repair entirely, because for a couple hundred in good will, I would have been a returning customer - now, there is no chance.

fish8

What exactly is the 3 yr 36K mile warranty? Prior to 2002 VW had a 2 yr 24K warranty. 2002 and newer have 4Yr and 50K mile warranties.

engineerman

I don't think it is anything published anywhere, because the service advisor called it in to VW before the offer of 50% coverage was made. You are correct about the 2 yr./24k as the original warranty I had. This seems to be a case-by-case thing.

jtom

geez, thank goodness I found this. I went to costco to replace 1 tire on my 1994 subaru awd impreza and got the same "buy 4 tires" thing, even though we JUST bought a single tire from them a few months ago. This is a new-ish policy as we've bought 1 and 2 tires in the past. So I did a little research and found this on tirerack.com

C:\Documents and Settings\Administrator\Desktop\Tire Tech - Matching Tires on Four-Wheel Drive And All-Wheel Drive Vehicles.htm

Audi As published in their vehicle owner's manual, "rolling radius of all 4 tires must remain the same" or within 4/32-inch of each other in remaining tread depth.

Porsche Cayenne within 30% of the other tire on the same axle's remaining treadwear.

Subaru Within 1/4-inch of tire circumference or about 2/32-inch of each other in remaining tread depth. (although NOT in my owner's manual)

So thoeritically I can get 3 tires, only if Costco sells the EXACT same style of Potenza's that I got a few months ago. Bummer, cuz 2 are only 50% worn.

The BIG question, has anyone actually ruined a transmission....or are they trying to con us out of more money? Also the AWD on a manual is different than an automatic. Does anyone know if this makes a difference? Thanks

krzyss

center diff. I think I saw a few mentions on Edmunds. Do search.

Krzys

dwhite7410

The timing belt on my 2000 Passat GLS V6 just broke yesterday...at 47,000 miles. I was stranded on teh side of the road for 4 hours waiting to be towed back to the deakler. Didn't get there until after hours. That is not good. Dealer just called and said be prepared for the bad news later today...engine may need replacing. I'm not too happy to hear that one. What is the problem, or do I just have bad luck. From the look of other postings this may be happening more and more.

dwhite7410

Yeah, the timing belt on my 2000 Passat GLS V6 broke yesterday at 47,000. I can't friggin believe it!! Dealer says to expect to need a new engine. Just what I wanted to hear.

altair4

dwhite,

are you the original owner? Won't warranty cover you? Even if second owner, doesn't the warranty for your year drop down to 50K?

dwhite7410

Altair:
I am the orig. owner. Please remind me, was original warranty 5 yrs/50,000 miles on the drivetrain?

toms

I believe the warranty on the engine and drive train for the original owner is 10 years or 100,000 miles. I have a 99 Passat and that's what the warranty for my car.

altair4

dwhite,

I believe that Toms is correct. I think you have a 10 yr / 100k mile powertrain warranty.

Dig out your owner's manual or call VW's 800 number for confirmation. I won't give up on this until all avenues are exhausted!

dwhite7410

Altair4:

The dealer called me on Saturday and said the warranty is 5 years and 60,000. I'm still ok bacause I don't hit 5 yrs until November this year and I only have 47k miles on it.

Does anyone know if a "new" motor is really a new one or will they just give me a rebuilt block with my old stuff (oil pump,water pump, radiator, etc) bolted back on to it?

kwar

I have a 2000 passat wagon, 35,000 miles, but out of warantee. There's no history of problems, it's regularly taken care of. This week it rained, we were parked on a gentle slope facing down, and found that there was an inch of h20 in rear driver side floor. The vw service people said it was a clogged drain in roof-window, and leak in the seal around same. I keep on hearing about this problem from vw owners. Dealer wants to charge me 700$ to fix it, and although this is a
 problem unique to VW passats, VW will not pay for any part of it. Does anyone have any suggestions about how to deal with this without payinbg 700$?

Thanks!

altair4

Glad they are stepping up to the plate. I'd imagine it's a rebuilt engine (not necessarily a bad thing). I have no idea about the oil pump, etc - make sure about this. You might want to consider new water pump and make sure that the timing belt and tensioner are new and updated. I'd guess that the radiator is reused.

I still think that you're warranty is longer than 5 yrs/60K and I'd really want that documented for future reference. Find that owner's manual!

Oh, and make sure you're using the correct grade of synth oil. Must meet VW spec 502.00 as noted in the recent customer action letter.

altair4

What will they do for the $700?

I saw this suggestion posted by a VW tech on another forum.

Inside the front door jambs, you'll find the end of the drainage tubes from the sunroof. They are, IIRC, just below the upper door hinge. They are round black tubes that end with a flat section. This flat section apparently sticks, and this causes the water to back up and flood into the car.

Periodically squeeze these tubes to make sure they are unstick and allowing water to exit.

The problem here is that sensitive electronics are located under the passenger seat - funny things happen when these get wet.

dwhite7410

Altair4:

I just got a call from the dealer. Said that the bearings in the water pump went bad, which then pushed the timing belt tensioner out of place, which then chewed up the timing belt and shut down the engine. They said work will be covered by warranty but that I won't need a new motor, just new bearings in the water pump and new heads.

griz440

I have a 1996 Passat diesel with 70,000 miles which has been great but I have a vibration problem and am wondering if others have experienced it and if there may be a fix. On the highway in fifth gear between 72 and 80 mph there is a vibration that sets off buzzes in the instrument panel. Below 72 and above 80 it disappears. It is there as you go up through the gears as well but you move through the rpm range so quickly that is is largely unnoticed. I don't remember it being there when the car was newer. Help

justin

so, are the 2.8 V6 models known for eating up timing belts more so than the 1.8T? or is the 2.8 timing belt issue for certain years only?

i tell ya, between coil problems for 1.8T, and timing belt issues for 2.8 V6, makes you wonder which is the best engine (longevity/reliability wise) to get when looking at 03/04/05 Passats.

atri

I have a 2003 Passat V6,23300 miles,and already experienced a strange problem.The other day I smelled rubber burning,after a drive through NYC,and on approaching the dealer, I was told that my clutch has burned out slightly,and will keep wearing out quickly,from here on.
I have 5yr/50000 miles bumper-to-bumper warranty;so should'nt it cover the clutch?
How often does clutches wear out in modern day cars that quickly?
I have driven Nissan Altima,and Saturn SL2,and the clutches use to be fine even after 120,000 miles. Any suggestions or solutions?
Atri.

mugnut

My 2002 GLX wagon w/ 51 k has been in and out of the dealership four times in the past month. Days after leaving a couple of weeks ago, the "check engine" came on, followed by the message "emissions workshop." The car also started to kind of chuck when foot came off the accelerator, and other weird driving things. Brought it in, and was told it was a faulty "vehicle speed sensor." (of, no part in stock). Took it home (having been told that it was fine to drive), and the automatic door locks ceased working. Then, brought it back in (once the new part arrived for the speed sensor) and was told that it wasn't just the speed sensor, but some unnamed part connecting the speed sensor to the transmission which must be fixed to get the automatic door locks to function again. Allegedly requires the transmission to be taken apart, to the tune of $750 plus. Anyone encountered this before? I was told that the car is fine to drive despite the failure of the auto door locks? Is that true?

Wish I'd sold this car 5k miles ago when I wanted to. As soon as its extended warranty expired it went straight down the tubes.

techybabu

I have a VW Passat 2001 GLS with extended warranty from MasterGuard. Well as any other VW, this car is full of problems. My current problem is that my driver side door doesnt lock now and so they are replacing the whole locking mechanism in the door. I would like to know if this is covered?
Please throw some light on this?

dcmike

Noticed condensation recently in the right front headlight of my 01.5 Passat (V6 GLX). Tried to replace the bulb, but it blew out right away (waste of $14.00). Dealership told me that I need to replace the entire light fixture. Almost passed out at the price of a new light fixture, but was looking at edmunds and noticed one for sale on ebay. Won the auction, and realized that I have no idea how to replace the fixture. Anyone out there ever done it? Also, what should I expect to pay (and is it really worth it) for the 40K service? My local dealer of choice quoted me over $600, which I find a joke because all the do is test and inspect (the only change seems to be the oil - pretty expensive oil change in my opinion). Thanks!

dolphin

How do you like the Masterguard Warranty? Is it bumper to bumper and is there a deductible?

grega1

Just thought other should know, we had the engine on our 2002 Passat replaced at 24000 mile when the rods were thrown. The timing belt went this last weekend at 32000 miles. Combined with battery, brakes, and homelink replacements, we decided to trade in on an 03 Accord v6. Not as stylish, but very nice. On the bright side, VW did fix the engine and give us a loaner during the 2 months it was in the shop.

ncdrew

Bought 2004 Passat 1.8T manual 4Motion end of August. Noticed pronounced "binding" (like a shudder or shimmy...could feel and hear it)when turning in low gear, more so to left. Took car back to dealer.Had it for 11 days. Told me VW hadnt heard of this problem and had no solution except it should loosen up after I drive for 1-2k miles. Told them that was not acceptable. At that time get a call back from corporate technical staff who instructed them to drain differential fluid/transmission fluid. I was told that the differential fluid from the front was "dark and dirty" and "clear and clean" from the rear. Car only had 560 miles on it (had 293 when I bought it). The symptom went away but I asked about root cause or potential damage to the differential -- they couldnt answer me because they do not know. And now the car shifts hard into second (didnt before I took it back).I took it back a few days after they replaced the differential and transmission fluids and drove with service manager - couldnt reproduce it. He told me to bring car back at 1100 miles and would drain fluid again -- told me if it is dark and dirty again then there is a problem with the differential and transmission -- in a brand new car! In past 2 weeks the "binding" has returned intermittently and more often shifts hard into second. Anbody have a problem like this???

I have been totally displeased and dissatisfied with experience. Also have tried to resolve problems with dealer and also with VW -- customer advocate is truly a misnomer. They have refused a request for me to meet with area rep and dealer representatives at the same time to discuss the situation. Thoughts? Advice?

pciskowski

I have an '04 GLS wagon. Does anyone know if the brake or accelerator pedals can be adjusted? If I move the seat so that the accelerator is fine, the brake pedal is too close and uncomforable to use. If I adjust to the brake, the accelerator is too far away. I asked the dealer, and they said the pedals are set at the factory and cannot be adjusted. They are fine in our otherwise identical '03. Any suggestions?

at66

I purchased a '04 1.8T manual w/4Motion mid-August as well. As far as your "binding" problem - I have the same problem as well, only when turning hard at very slow speeds, such as when making a u-turn. I'm waiting for the 5k oil change (soon) to demonstrate this problem but anything short of a complete fix won't be acceptable. The car shifts fine though. Does anyone get burning oil-type smells when doing 70-80mph+? I guess that's what they mean by oil consumption? I've had to add a bit. The whole oil subject has me somewhat concerned. (I have not received a letter regarding that from VW as of yet) I plan to put synthetic in from here on out, as the engine runs VERY hot. There's a spot on the hood (outside) that you can't even touch for more than a second, it gets so hot. The only other thing I could say that isn't great about this car is the radio reception is pretty weak, esp. AM, but I understand that is fairly common with these cars. (No, of course it doesn't make any sense!) Compared to the other things though, that really doesn't rate very high. I have to say I love driving it and frequently head to Upstate NY just for the enjoyment of working it out on some empty, twisting roads. I am very interested to hear what VW will say when I bring it in.

craigeric

I also have a 2004.5 4Mo 1.8 GLS (ESP)...Have same issue with the turning, I tried to isolate, seems to occur when making these 90 degree turns in first, tried in 2nd, but not as significant as in first (may be a speed issue)...almost feels and sounds as if I'm making the turn with about 10 pounds of pressure in each front tire (I run on about 35 psi).this problem has also been discussed on VW Vortex site. No specific info as to cause as far as I can see.
 
The only other issues I have is a noise (on any road other than a smooth one...)in the drivers side headliner and a noise (rattle) from the sliding interior cover of the moonroof.Drives me crazy.

ps...The am radio sucks.
Just for the record - I also own a '99 1.8 FWD (130,000 miles.)

altair4

>>ps...The am radio sucks.<<

I've got an '03. My AM radio seems fine. I frequently listen to Philadephia 1060 here in Pittsburgh during the late evening/night. That's about 260 air miles away. I can also catch some stations from Chicago (400 miles)after sunset.

vwcamper

Ditto on the poor radio reception, though I've found it difficult on both AM and FM. I've got a 2003 and this car produces the worst radio listening (even with the Monsoon) I have ever experienced in all the cars I've owned in the past 20 years.

ncdrew

You said "this problem has also been discussed on VW Vortex site. No specific info as to cause as far as I can see." -- was this recently? I have tried searching that site but came up empty.

Have you brought this to the attention of your dealer? I certainly would be interested what they have to say. Mine definitely does it in low gear - more noticeable in first or in second at low speed and a tight turn. Very frustrating becauase from my research I understand the torsen differential should not have this "binding" or torque.

taft4

I too have poor AM radio reception on my 04 Passat GLX sedan (the FM is okay). The dealer tested it and told me it tested fine, that the inputs were correct according to the computer test results, but admitted the reception was poor. He told me that it is an inherent problem with the system and can not be improved. He attributed it to the Onstar equipment, which may or may not be true. Fortunately I do not listen to the radio much so it does not bother me.

craigeric

On the VWvortex site there are headings "4-Motion, 5-speed Question-Grinding Noise". These are very recent postings in the Passat B5 forum.
No, I haven't yet brought this to the attention of my dealer, I am hoping to wait until my 5,000 check up (currently at 2000), but I may not wait. I also checked to see if this was a "cold starting" only issue but it occurs even when the car has been running for an extended period of time.
I also recently noticed a smell of "burning" oil at high speed (>80 mph). Starting to be very concerned...

at66

I will have to check out the other sites but I have not brought this to the dealers attention yet either. The 2 problems: rough turning a slow speeds (hot or cold) and the oil smell at high speeds. The poor radio reception I can live with but I will bring it to their attention. I have 4k miles on it so probably by the end of the November it should have 5k on it. Has everyone gotten the letter from VW regarding the oil sludge problem? I have not as of yet but am under the impression that all 2004's will be covered. I will give VW a call.

mrjette

I just got an '05 Passat TDi. The rear floor mats have holes for the oval anchors, but no pegs on which to place them. Were they missed on this car, or have they stopped putting the pegs in the back (front pegs are fine).
 
Thanks!

brozhnik

The interior of my Passat (2003, 1.8T, 20,000 miles, one year old) smells funny today. The smell does not resemble mold, nor something burning (oil, electrical). The closest description I can come to is that it's like the "new-car smell", except maybe a little darker and heavier (sorry if that's unclear; best I could come up with). It's not actually unpleasant, but it's totally new.

I should add that we had a significant rain storm yesterday, all day. On the other hand, the rain had ended by the time I got home last night, and I didn't notice this smell then. Still, I looked around for moisture in the car but didn't see anything wet inside.

A couple weeks ago I had the 20K service done, which included changing the pollen filter, if that's relevant.

Anyway.... any insights, suggestions or ideas welcome. Thanks!

jslade

I HAVE A 98 PASSAT/TURBO W. 55,000MI. JUST BOUGHT IT USED. SEEMS IN EXCELLENT COND. HOWEVER, THE ALARM GOES OFF AT TIMES AFTER I HAVE LEFT THE CAR AND LOCKED IT WITH THE REMOTE. NOT EVERY TIME. ALSO, I AM UNABLE TO RELEASE THE TRUNK MANUALLY. IT CAN BE OPENED WITH THE KEY OR THE REMOTE, HOWEVER.

altair4

brozhnik,

Check very carefully for water. Feel under the front and rear floor mats, both sides, but especially the passenger side.

Two things in your post raised my eyebrow: 1) the heavy rainstorm, and 2) the new pollen filter. If the new filter is not fitted properly and your cowl drain plugs are clogged, water can get into the passenger compartment. Pay close attention to the smell to see if it goes moldy. Also, pay attention to whether your car tends to fog up on the inside more than usual. All signs of water where it shouldn't be.

Good luck!