Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair

tf1

Hi,

I bought my VW Passat 2003 1.8T last July.
My experience(routine maintaince, no repair)

-Oil/filter change(3K miles)-2 hrs(appointment),
-Oil/filter change(6K miles)-2 hrs(appointment),

Another location of the same dealership
(Gossett VW, Memphis, TN)

-Oil/filter change(10K miles), tire rotation, spare tire change with damaged one, mud guard installation, windshield wipers change(appointment).
Originally has been told it will takes 2.5 hrs, spent 4, as a result was late at work. Had to come back next day: damaged tire was still on car, VW logo cap from wheel was missing.

Total : $450 and 10 hrs (including commute back and forth).

P.S. Have no problems with car yet, gas milage a little bit more than 30 m/gal on highway.

Good luck.

brwalter

I went into my local auto parts store to buy ArmorAll or the equivalent. The guy enthusiastically recommended Meguiar’s “The Professional Vinyl and Rubber Cleaner/Conditioner 40” –he's used it himself for years and thinks it’s superior. So I tried it. The problem – after I did the dash I noticed some black on the cloth I’d used to apply the stuff. I realized it was dye coming off the (black) dashboard. It’s subtle—you don’t see white streaks on the dash — but there are a few streaks where the black is visibly no longer as black as the rest of the dash. Again, subtle, and probably most people won’t notice, but when I showed it to the guy at the store he saw it immediately.

I meanwhile emailed Meguiars and they said that this product does have solvents that can in some cars remove dye. He apologized and sent a free bottle of Meguiars Gold Class Vinyl/Rubber Protectant, which he says has hardly any solvents and is more recent generation.

So my question is — now what? Is there anything I can do? I don’t relish the idea of making a claim against Meguiar’s, even though they’ve admitted that the particular product can cause this (Passat owners, be careful), and the bottle has no warning to that effect. (But what do you think? Should I? What would be my chances?) And even if I get to replace the dash, who knows, maybe doing that would cause other problems? (Rattles? Right now it’s nice and tight.)

What I’d really like is something else I can rub on that will make it look fine. (Haven’t yet dared that “Gold Class” stuff.)

What do you recommend I do?
Thanks.

fish8

I, personally, do not used anything on my Jetta's dash except a rag with meguiars spray detailer or water on it to wipe off the dust. Not sure if you have any recourse with Meguiars regarding replacing your dash. it is usually the responsibility of the user to test a small portion of the cleaner on a small part of the dash.

BTW: I have heard nothing but bad things about Armor All products used on dashboards. In the long run they tend to dry out and crack dashboards.

jenniandron

I have a 2002 Passat Wagon, automatic, and have noticed that it often has trouble shifting when one is cruising at 25 mph and wants to move up to 30+. I find that it does not respond to gentle pressure, and then after a moment, the engine revs up over 3000. We are trying to figure out the problem, but our VW dealership is taking its time fixing it.

Has anyone else had this problem? What if any solutions did you find?

kangakat

Have an '04 Passat GLS 1.8T Manual. Everytime I fill the tank up, the fuel gauge is sticking at 1/2 tank. After a couple of starts, the gauge finally moves to full. Last night filled it up and fuel came flying out of the tank.

I have tried setting the fuel nozzle in all the way, 1/2 way, 1/4 of the way and have been setting it on automatic fill at the highest setting and have tried the lowest setting. Still no luck.

Two Questions:

1. Could the fuel flying out of the tank have been caused by the faulty fuel tank sensor or was it the fuel nozzle?

2. Anyone else experiencing this?

Thanks for the feedback.

600kgolfgt

It's definitely the fuel tank sending unit. I've changed enough of those over my 22 years of owning VW's that I can do it in my sleep. Unless VW has radically changed their design, the sender unit is accessible via a panel on the floor of the trunk - after you lift or remove the carpet (either under the spare tire area or just behind the area where the spare tire is located). It is usually attached to the fuel transfer pump (which feeds fuel from the tank to the main fuel pump).

Unless you are very confident in your mechanical skills, this is a job that is best left to the professionals - especially when dealing with the fuel system.

Hope this helps...

ttran

The temperature gauge on my 2000 Passat is acting up. The needle would intermittently drop from midline (190F) to starting line, then go back up again in a few minutes. That happens 2 or 3 times during a 10 mile trip. Does anyone have an answer or suggestion to this problem ? Thank you.

600kgolfgt

You probably have a faulty coolant gauge sender unit (sensor), which is usually located on the engine near the connection point for one of the smaller (secondary) radiator hoses (usually attached to the cylinder head). A

If you are a do-it-yourself type of owner, I would invest in a Bentley manual (if you plan to keep the car at least 5 years) or a Chilton's manual (if you're keeping the car less than 5 years), and reference the troubleshooting section (usually the first couple of chapters in the manual) for your specific automotive problem.

If not, then resort to plan B (dealer or VW mechanic).

Hope this helps.

bluefox8

I have a 2004 GLX V6 Passat and recently starting experiencing a problem with the car downshifting suddenly right before it stops (going less than 10mph, it grinds and lurches forward as it comes to a stop).

I took it into the Dealer for service and was told this is an issue VW is aware of and they are working on a solution to update the control panel (yet there is no ETA when the solution will be ready). They couldn't offer me any other solutions- which is frustrating given I just shelled out $$ for this new car! Is anyone else experiencing this problem? If so, have you been able to get it fixed?

passat337

Bluefox8, I have a 2004 GLX V6 4motion and have experienced the same problem as you described. Plus for twice, I also felt the grinding and lurching as I tried to accelerate the car gently as it traveled at 5-10 mph. I have not got time to bring the car to the dealership.
I will let you know after I go to the dealer's.

jbennett34

Cruise control will not stay engaged on my 2002 W8. Been back to dealer and they find nothing wrong after test drive and plug into computer. Today I return home on a 80 mile trip and it disengaged over 20 times - at one point about once every 2 minutes. Seems to disengage during slightest incline or decline on Interstate. No other electrical accessories are on, radio off, in Drive, windows up, sunroof closed, 60-75mph. Any thoughts?

jrct9454

...one important thought - find another dealer. How can they claim there is no problem if you can make it happen 20 times in an 80 mile trip?

Insist on taking a drive with the tech assigned to fix the car, or with the service advisor, and DEMONSTRATE to them what the problem is.

As an aside, VW can talk about going "upscale" in the marketplace until the cows come home, but the vast majority of their dealers are not, have not been, and show no signs of becoming, ready to compete with MB, BMW, Acura, Lexus, Infiniti, etc in the service dept. There are too many stories like the one above to be dismissed - these people are often seriously incompetent, and the problem is still too widespread. If you have a good dealer, treasure him/her....they appear to be very rare.

bluefox8

Sorry to hear you are having troubles as well... but glad to know I am not alone. Looking forward to hearing what your Dealer has to say. Thanks!

passat337

Some good news. Here is what I found in a auto forum:

Update for all 2004 Passa GLX Triptronic "bumping"

Good News:
The factory has a solution for the "bumping/lurching" problem we are experiencing at times when slowing to a stop. Within 30 days, the new software fix will be available to us through your local VW service provider. I understand and believe that this is not a mechanical problem and is software related.

The midwestern states QTM (Quality Technical Manager) Evan, says that the problem with the triptronic is software related and the fix will be available within 30 days. The re-programming takes about 10 minutes, so figure about 1 - 2 hours.

For verification you can contact your VW service provider and ask him/her to verify with VW midwest rep QTM Evan.

You can email me @ bkbass@sbcglobal.net for more information.

Bob

passat337

I went to the dealer today. The mechanic people say some of other
customers also complained about this problem. But at this point, there is NOTHING they can do to fix it. They do not know anything about this software solution. I might contact them or another dealer
at the end of April to see if they hear anything from VW.

canadabob

I bought a 2003 W8 and in the 6 months that it's been on the road the Dealer has had to replace 6 rotors already !

The original set {all 4} had to be replaced after about 5 months {9000 miles} and now the front 2 have gone within 4 weeks, and have had to be replaced !

I started to notice a problem when the brakes started squeking {jut now and again}, and after no more than a 10 mile drive the heat from the rotors was INTENSE.

The front passenger side has always been the worst, and it still is, then the front drivers side, also very hot, and the rear two also hot but not as bad as the front two rotors.

The Dealer is doing all that they can, I don't have a problem with them, but after speaking repeatedly with VW {and e-mailing them} their response is...

Carry on driving the car, and we will carry on replacing the rotors as long as the warranty is in place !

Does that sound like the response you'd expect on a $64,000 Cnd $ car ? or from a company that is supposed to be making safe and reliable vehicles !

What happens to me if the brakes seize while I'm doing highway speeds, that can be 60mph to 75mph, I could be passing an 18 wheeler, or meeting one coming the other way, that or a School Bus, or you coming the opposite way !

I now have car that gives me anxiety attacks {and I'm NOT that sort of a guy}, but what options do I have, I don't want the car and VW have refused to buy it back ! {at any cost}.

Other than this problem {that VW are prepared to gamble my life, and other peoples lives on}, the car is a fine car, but then again... so is a Hearse !

I hope someone can figure out what's wrong with the brakes and let me have some feedback.

Thanks for your time and considerations.

Canada Bob.

fish8

It sounds like your W8 is a prime candidate for the lemon law. VW says that they will replace the rotors through your warranty period, but what happens when the warranty expires? You will be out allot of $$. Thats not the solution!

scotty2342

I just bought an older passat, got a great price, no issue on carfax and it has 60,000 miles. There is an issue with the rotors, they are horrible, I would assume they will need to be completely replaced, and have to imagine that isn't cheap. Also, just today, I have had it for three days, the check malfunction indicator light came on. I didn't know if the two had anything to do with eachother, I would assume no, but anything anybody can supply would be helpful!!!!

moda

These down shift problems are making me a bit nervous. I am in the process of deciding on a 2004 VW Passat (GLS or GLX)and want to purchase over the next month or two. Should I steer clear of the '04 Passats?? (I have always owned VW's and love them, currently have a '97 Passat)

passat337

so far it seems most of the down-shift problems occrued on 4motion
vehicles, though some people with FWD also raised this issue. plus some A4 owners also reported the same problem. i start to believe this is quite a general flaw in VW (auti) tiptronic transmission. if it is indeed a software issue then it should be fixed at no time. in general i like my passat a lot. just this problem is really annoying.

moda

Still trying to decide between the 2004 GLS or GLX. I have decided on FWD rather than 4motion thanks to responses on various boards.I know I don't want to do any chipping. I am used to my '97 VW V6 engine, and can't decide whether to go with 1.8 turbo or V6. Edmumds seems to recommend the 1.8. I am guessing either will be much improved compared to my '97. Want reliability (along with the fun of VW's) Thanks in advance for feedback.

meandean

I've followed this thread for a while and have a new wrinkle.

My 2000 GLS had rear brakes and rotors replaced at 60K -- no problem with that as I felt that 60 was a reasonable term. Just had my 70 K service and was told that my front brakes had 50% left and fronts 60%! (BTW, front brakes are original -- bought car new).

Problem is this -- How can I show 50% wear on the rear in just 10K of use given that BOTH the primary and secondary drivers are the same AND the car's usage is the same? Something smells.

1) Did VW have a major change in the composition of pads between 2000 and 2004?

2) Do I have any recourse if I need pads/rotors in 20 K (or in about 1/3 the time of my last repair?) -- as everything else is the same, must be the parts that are substandard. Is there a service guru to call?

3) Are there any other replacement pads/rotors that anyone can recommend that give long life without major screeching (BTW, my original pads/rotors were quiet AND long lasting)?

Your wisdom, suggestions, etc. are greatfully appreciated.

bluefox8

Thank you for the info. I will contact the dealer within the next week or so to see if the fix is in. I love my Passat and if I can just get this little thing fixed, it will be golden! Thanks again!

steve3

A few months ago, my 2001 VW Passat wagon started to omit a burning oil smell while the heat or air conditioning was on. The smell only occurred after driving a few miles and idling at a stop. We have had the car to the dealer three times and they cannot locate the problem. Any similar problems or advice?

altair4

What engine (1.8T or v-6)? How many miles? Could be as simple as a valve cover gasket that's leaking...

steve3

It is a v-6 and we have only 27,500 miles on it. We had the gasket replaced this week. We'll see if that helps....

taft4

Since I was concerned about the reliability history of VW when I purchased my new GLX sedan (V6) about a month ago I decided to forego a $300 lower price from a dealer 20 miles away who has 4 car lines including VW.

Instead I purchased from a large (600 cars in stock) exclusive VW dealer who is only 5 miles from home. On the second day of ownership I discovered the AM Band on the radio is obviously malfunctioning but since I don't listen to a radio much this is a minor issue and so I decided to wait before having it repaired. In the meantime the dealership has phoned me twice to make sure everything is okay (told them about radio) and if I am satisfied. So far with just 600 miles under my belt, the car has been very pleasing.

bjbird2

I bought my VW from a dealer 35 miles away because of the good deal, and have had all the warrantee service done at a dealer 6 miles away without a problem. They treated me just like I bought the car from them. It doesn't make any difference where you buy the car, the warrantee is good at all VW dealers.

altair4

You wrote:
"It doesn't make any difference where you buy the car, the warrantee is good at all VW dealers."

In theory, yes, in practice...I dunno. I read stories periodically of dealers not treating all owners equally. I've had a Honda dealer tell me point blank they don't like to service cars purchased elsewhere and that locally purchased cars get first attention for appts and loaners. I've read that a few VW dealers cop a similar attitude. Buyer beware.

ghiachic

I'm posting again. Just want to get the word out to everyone with a Passat V6. The belt broke at 77,000 miles.
 Not supposed to be checked until 90,000 miles and replaced at 100,000.
 $5,000. 00 worth of damage. The second Passat I've heard of doing that. Writing to Volkswagen of America to complain. Do the same.Lets fix the problem. Good luck.

taft4

You are correct that by contract there may not be any difference between dealers in that they are obliged by the manufacturer to service all their cars in equal fashion. But they are human and there are small differences that can be important when you are serviced by the dealer you purchased your car from. In over 50 years of car ownership I have experienced some of those differences.

If the local service department is busy you may get a better preference time on when you can bring your car in if you purchased there. On a warranty question you may, in border line cases, get more support for your position from the dealer who sold you your car than from one that did not.

I have booked my new GLX in for a minor adjustment (radio problem) from the dealer who sold me the car, and as one of their services I will get a free loaner for the day the car is in the shop. If I want to use the service I can pop in for free washes at any time. On occasion they have special low charges for ordinary service to those who purchased new vehicles from them.

Before I retired I owned a couple of businesses and it was natural to give preference in different ways to those people who were my best customers. No, you didn't cheat the chisler, but it was just a wise business practice to give preference to the person who was more profitable. Usually they were also easier to get along with.

The car I traded in (2003 Subaru Forester) on my Passat I purchased from a dealer 25 miles away, only because he was $1200 cheaper than the local guy and that was too great a spread to ignore. So the ultimate question is, what is the spread between a good local dealer and a dealer some distance away? For me a $300 savings is not worth going away.

bjbird2

I saved almost $1000 purchasing the car at the dealer 35 miles away, and yet the service at the closer dealer has always been first rate, although regrettably, too often. I've also been given a loaner when I asked for one.

beerbecue

My wife and I just purchased a 2004 Passat GLS (1.8T, automatic). Right out the door, there is an annoying, high-pitched wind noise coming from either the mirror or the trim on the drivers side. Mind you, if this was occuring as described by others at high speed, I wouldn't mind, but this happens at less than 55 mph! Took it to the dealer (in Snellville, GA), and they told me they made an adjustment and added insulation to the mirror. On the drive home, no difference. On the whole we really like this car, and it certainly is great to look at, but I cannot drive it with the high-pitched whine. Now it is my wife's turn to take it in - perhaps this time the mechanic will drive it at the speeds I described. I would love to resolve this issue, otherwise, we may attempt to return it (if that is at all possible)

bronsonb

Got a question for everyone:

I have a 1999 Passat GLS V6 with 78K miles. I have recently been hearing a clunking sound when I apply the breaks. It happens once just about each time I apply the brakes. This is not the brake clunk or noise that people say they hear the first time they drive the car in the morning as this happens all the time.

The sound seems to be coming from the front of the car. Usually, it is a single clunk. Sometimes there are a pair of clunks. When there are a pair, the second sound comes from the front passenger side of the vehicle.

If I apply the brakes several times in a short period (like pumping the brakes), I don't get the clunk every time...just the first.

Any ideas on what this might be. I am taking the car back to my VW guy for squealing brakes (they've been squealing for awhile, but only clunking recently, and he's going to put some new pads on it). I am going to have him check this out too, but I wanted to see if anyone on Edmunds had any ideas in the meantime.

Thanks for your help.

lbradford

We have 3 VW TDI's. an 01 and 03 Jetta and an 04 Passat. The 01 Jetta has 45K miles and so far has been just fine. The other two are to new to comment on, other than no problems so far.

My main point however, is JD Power. Clearly people are relying on them and mostly their initial quality reports. We have just unloaded to JD Power highly recommended initial quality American cars from two different companies. Both of these cars were trouble from the get go.

No doubt their reports mean very little. Don't even go there. General consumer (owner) reports are much more valuable, as are these forums. However, on these forums you are going to get people venting their frustrations, more that happy owners that usually don't come here.

BTW, I also have an 01 Nissan Maxima, which has also been trouble free so far.

For my two cents worth, I'd go for then new Passat if that's the car you really like.

taft4

I took in my one month old GLX in for a minor service problem this morning and the dealership was prompt and efficient. Unfortunately they could not correct the deficiency. When I took delivery I noted the sound on the AM band of the radio was scratchy. I don't listen to the radio much (about 5% of the time) so it is no big deal, yet because they (VW) brags about the Monsoon radio, I thought it should be fixed. The dealer told me that this is a Passat problem, probably caused by the aerial that also handles OnStar, and that a few other customers have complained about the same problem. They did point out that it is not a problem on the Jettas.

Anyway there is no fix for this tiny annoyance at this time and since the rest of the car is so great, it is something I can easily live with. However, I don't think VW should be extolling the virtues of the Monsoon system. Incidentally, the FM channels are flawless.

My wife and I are used to being without radio because we live in a four story fireproof condo in which we get no radio reception at all due to its construction. However, we still know the world is alive and kicking because we have cable tv.

ian18

My 2003 Passat has good AM reception, so perhaps your problem does have something to do with the OnStar system.

By the way, my German colleague was shocked to learn that Americans still listen to AM radio, apparently AM is almost extinct in Europe.

pass_on_it

I have a 98 1.8T Wagon w/ 104K. I live in NJ and failed inspection. Turns out my 3rd (upper) brake light is on all the time, although dimly. It does get brighter when I apply the brakes.

Any ideas what is might be? Also, thinking it might be a fuse, I accidently pulled out the transmission fuse. Now my gear display is in reverse video (solid black w/ clear gear letters/numbers). It feels like the car is in manual mode because the shifts are stiff and like it won't go into 5th gear. Any ideas on how to reset this? I can't figure why pulling the fuse would do it. I've driven it over 20 mi thinking it may reset itself, but no luck. HELP!-->

desten

This is kind of a strange problem, but I just borrowed by brother-in-law's Passat while my wife's Beetle is in the shop. There is a warning light in the instrument panel -- yellow triangle enclosing an exclamation point with an arrow that goes around the exclamation point in a partial circle -- indicating rotation, I would guess. The glove box handle is broken, so I can't get to the manual, and my brother-in-law doesn't know what it means. Can anyone tell me what this means? I obviously don't want to drive the car if it's a serious problem. Thanks for your help.

bills159

My 3 week old 2004 Passat Wagon GLS 4motion 1.8T w/ manual transmission has a small but anoying issue. As it decelerates through 2200-2000 rpm in either 3rd,4th,or 5th gear it develops a slight vibration as if beginning to stall. However, the vibration stops just under 2000 rpm. The most noticeable time is while driving about 40mph in 4th gear. The vibration does not occur while accelerating. Is this normal for the engine and manual transmission on this car or does something need an adjustment?

Thanks for any advice!

gskimmel

I got a 2004 passat v6 a few weeks ago and am around 1300 miles now. When I was considering the car, I was told I would get 19 miles per gallon in the city and 27 miles per gallon on the highway. I live in the suburbs, I am not an aggressive driver, and I find that my true mileage is 15 to 17 miles per gallon. I recently took a road trip on the highway and I got around 20 miles per gallon on the highway. If you have a V6 Passat, what is your gas mileage? Is there a probelm with my car if my true mileage is far below than what was advertised for it?

ian18

My 2003 Passat gets about 17-19 mpg in the city and around 25-27 mpg highway. I once did break 30 mpg on the interstate though.

The EPA estimates of gas mileage is 10-15% higher than the real world.

taft4

I too live in the suburbs, have 1400 miles on my new 2004 GLX V6 sedan, and am averaging about 17.5 MPG. I went on a 275 mile country trip earlier in the week and averaged 24.5 MPG for that trip. Hopefully when the cars get more mileage on them, they will do a little better.

bjbird2

My 1.8T gets 26MPG city and 31MPG highway, and the performance (acceleration) is better than the V-6 because it is chipped. I guess my question is, why spend the extra $$$ for the
V-6? I really don't see any advantage.

bills159

I believe that the warning light you describe is the Electronic Stability Program (ESP) light. When the light is on, that means ESP is turned off. Look for an ESP button on your dash/console and press it and see if the light goes out. If it does, ESP is turned back on. If not, I suppose there might be a malfunction.

jimbo1

I have a 2001.5 GLS standard shift with 59K miles. While driving a large warning light came on saying "STOP" shut off engine, which I did. I had the car towed to the VW dealer. I am being told that the cam chain tensioner (?) is broken and maybe more. The dealer is taking the top of the engine off and believes the turbo is also damaged.

I took good care of this car and paid the dealer $800 for the most recent level C maintenance. I suspect that the turbo is deficient. Has anyone had a similar experience? I can't believe that a three year old car can just self destruct without a possible manufacturing defect.

Does anybody have information on any known manufacturing defect or had a similar problem?

desten

That's exactly what it was. It was off when I started the car again, it was off. When I first got in the car I was fumbling for the climate control system and I think that I must have hit that button by mistake. I tried the button again and it would cycle on and off again, so it appears to be working correctly.

Thanks for responding!

zanderman

I have a 2000 1.8T GLS with 60K+ miles. This spring my emissions warning light flashed to seek service. Diagnostics revealed moisture in my air pump. It was dried out and light went away. Two weeks later, same experience. I finally replaced the air pump and, guess what, a week later the light came on again. More water. Two dealers and a private garage later, no one knows where the moisture is coming from.

Anyone have the same experience? Ideas? Fix?

debo

I have a 2002 passat gls. I am new to Passats having been a range rover driver for the past 12 years. The Passat has had innumerous glitches including coil problems, but nothing like what I am now going through now.

Earlier this month I was driving to a business meeting an hour out of town and got the same scary warning as yours. I have never had such a warning in any car and I immediately pulled over. The car displayed no other signs of any problems. I immediately checked the oil level which was fine.

I phoned VW roadside assistance and they directed me to the nearest dealer. The dealer got to it the next day and told me that it showed no signs of any oil pump/oil pressure problems and that the warning must have come up due to the need for a quart of oil. He also said the oil was very dirty and that he could change the oil and replace the missing quart.

I authorized the oil change but argued that this warning couldn't have been for something as minimal as the need for an oil change. He admitted that he had never experienced such a warning sign before.

I was reluctant to pick up the car- but the dealer serviceman said that he could not find any other problems and could not authorize further assistance.

I drove to pick the car up the next day, a Sunday. 20 minutes into my drive the same warning light came on. I immediately called roadside assistance and told them my story. The agent said that it sounded like some faulty sensor, since the dealer had performed the diagnostics. He recommended I continue my trip (another 60 minutes) and take it to my own dealer the next day.

Within 5 minutes the car was making a clanking noise and I barely made it off the exit before the car died. They towed it to the dealer and the next day the dealer said that the engine was toast, and that it would need to be replaced.

Several days later, he informed me that the factory rep was declining to cover this under the warranty because of my maintenance records, (they said I didn't have all of the oil changes that I should have).

When explained that I had just had it into a dealer for repairs 20 minutes before the engine died, VW responded that their dealer had performed the proper diagnostics and that they were standing behind the factory reps decision to forego covering the repair.

The dealer still has the car, VW is turning their back on any repairs and is suggesting I speak to the dealer who performed the last service, and the current dealer is telling me that I will need $10,000 to replace the engine!!!!

I performed every required maintenance at the dealer - though I was due for a maintenance. The car was running perfectly until the warning sign and when my dealer pulled apart the engine they found metal shavings, which signaled an internal part failure. They were surprised that VW is not supporting a repair- but can't do anything about it.

holenone79

How many miles are on your car? I would hire an attorney. You did everything right and followed vw's instructions. Do you have all your receipts showing when you changed your oil? Did you change it every 5,000 miles? However, if you neglected to change your oil, you are probably screwed.