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Volkswagen Passat Maintenance and Repair



  • Can anybody tell me why my dealership will not give or sell me new windshield wipers for my 2002 GLS Passat?

    Had it in to the dealer this past Saturday for a free Customer Appreciation Event - 40 point "supposed" inspection. They refused to replace or even let me purchase new blades. The mechanic told me I had bad blades. Tell me something I don't already know....

    The wipers do not clear the windshield of rain/ice/snow and make a VERY loud dragging noise over the windshield. VERY frustrating!! Anybody else experience this problem? How was the problem resolved?

    I was told by the dealer that they needed to call Volkswagen next week to find out what they should do? DAH!! Perhaps installing a new pair of wiper blades might be an option? I found replacements at a local auto parts store and am going to purchase and install them myself! I'm not going to wait around for Volkswagen to get their act together.

    What am I supposed to do in the meantime...don't drive the car whenever it snows out? Gee thanks Volkswagen, but this is MN!!
  • Have leased a 1.8L Passat sedan/auto trans./w.all packages that has been to the dealer about 14 times in just 2yrs. Mileage is 48K/29,000 Mi. Dealership to their credit treats me like a prince and I appreciate that fact. Car came without optional 'head' air bags I ordered/CD player missing/unit popped out after installation/climate control lights failed/driver's door became misaligned - major part loose/three lights have had to be replaced/key would not come out of ignition - locked/recall on valve springs? carried out/front brakes replaced once/rear brakes now three times as car shutters upon braking at highway speeds/driver's door window-control cracked - replaced/dealer-installed factory-approved mud guards scrape on normal inclines/design of protruding aluminum wheels allows 'nick' marks if car wash is not width-compatible.

    For a car I am so in love with it has been a big disappointment/will have to consider different brand next time or go back (oh no) to GM.
  • I have a 2002 4Motion Passat and I was wondering if anyone had any problems with the tires. I have Michelin 205-55/16" tires and have recently replaced two of them after driving 18,500 miles.
    Both tires had no visual holes--both had sidewall damage.

    In addition, I noticed that someone had written about worn out floor mats. I put a hole in the driver's side after 1 year.

    Lastly, the running lights bulb has blown twice.

    I like the car, thinks it drives well but was just wondering if anyone came across the above.

  • I have that same dragging noise with the wipers on my '02 GLS. It's been that way since I bought it new. Haven't had the dealer look at it, tho. Can you tell me which dealer you had this problem with? (I'm in St. Paul.) I haven't been real happy with mine (W. Side VW, Mpls.)
  • My '02 is still under warranty so I always take it to the dealer, but I've taken my other cars to two independent mechanics that I like. Capitol Auto Repair (E. 7 St, St. Paul) has worked on my Camry (and formerly my Jetta) for years. It used to be called "Old Volks Home". The new owners changed the name but most of the mechanics are still there, so I know they know VW.

    The other place I just tried is Metric Auto Repair (Smith Ave., St Paul). I was referred there by an aquaintance as a good place for Saab work (just bought a '99 Saab last summer). I took it there for an oil change but was impressed with the guy in charge, who chatted with me for several minutes. I found out they not only call themselves "Saab specialists", but "VW specialists" as well).
  • Have been taking my Passat to Countryside Volkswagen in Maplewood. Have had excellent service there - I have experienced the ignition coil problem (twice), a stabilizer bar problem - loud squeaking when driving over bumps in cold weather, an emissions control problem and now the wiper problem.

    On all occasions, (except Saturday) have received excellent service. However, I have been fortunate in that I am dealing with the service MANAGER, rather than an advisor. (due to my multiple problems) Although, the advisors have been very helpful and knowledgeable the few times I have worked with them.

    I did just hear back from the manager regarding my wiper blades and I am being told that "their are no other reported problems with the wipers currently." I find that difficult to believe, with all the posts that are out here regarding this subject.

    Therefore, my options are to come in and they will use some kind of 3m product to clean the windshield or else I can purchase new blades (for the "small" price of $60.00!! WOW!! For wiper blades???) I was told their are NO inserts for these wipers. I did swap the blades, passenger to driver, and appears to be working slightly better.

    Give Maplewood a try next time, I think you will be pleased!!
  • The name would be kangaKat!!! :)

    I plan on installing replacements. No way is VW getting $60 from me for stinkin wiper blades!
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Yeah, VW says there's no insert replacement for their wipers, but people have been very creative and have been able to disassemble the wipers with little difficulty.

    Apparently a number of inserts will work, including some from Anco (N21R), Lexor (B), and Tripledge (22" standard). Even the VW dealer's inserts will apparently work (according to some other forums; house rules here prevent me from listing links) - try P/N:1J0955429A.

    In some instances, you may have to cut the refill to fit. The entire task doesn't look that hard on our B5.5's. It's the way I'm going when the time comes to replace mine.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    >>The name would be kangaKat!!! :)<<

    I deleted the previous post and listed a little more info, including the part numbers. Hope this helps.

    I like how the new design hugs the glass (no unswept sections, unlike some of my past cars), but that chattering or stuttering problem can get on your nerves after awhile.
  • No problem, altair4! Thought maybe you "disliked" cats, since you typed Rat! :)

    Thanks so much for the detailed information on replacement inserts. I am going to give one of the replacements you mentioned a try.

    I agree. The new design is nice, in terms of the sweep. But that chatter!! UGH! LIke fingernails on a blackboard!!
  • "LIke fingernails on a blackboard!!"

    ...or a palm in an armpit! (sorry, couldn't resist that one!) ;-)
  • So whats the replacement blade?
  • First time to this board--had to throw my 2 cents in. I just scheduled my 2001.5 V6 Tip at the dealer for its first set of brakes w/ 85,000 miles on it. I'm seriously reconsidering after all of the msgs about $1000 brake jobs! I feel brakes are most impt and I'm willing to spend the money (within reason) to get the same quality as original. Is it a foregone conclusion that aftermarket shops like NTB or Pep Boys use lower quality parts to cut the price? Will I really save that much? I don't have time to do my own brakes any more. Any advice?

    BTW, I have had precious few problems with this car (I hate to say it--I'm knocking on wood as I type)--BY FAR the best car I've owned in 25 years of driving. An absolute blast to drive! Yeah, I've replaced a couple of DRL's--no surprise after 85K, but they take 5 minutes to replace at $15 each. No big deal.

    My only complaint is the need for premium gas--it really adds up when you drive 30K miles/yr but the mileage is very good (mid 20's overall, even w/ 75 MPH highway driving). I would buy another in a heartbeat, in fact I'm seriously considering the Toaureg for my family when the venerable minivan dies. If only they would change the name...I really hate that name!
  • I have a 02 GLX V6 manual with 24,000 miles. The clutch engages too high (aft). It has been this way since I bought it (new). I figured it was normal, until I got frustrated with it and drove a 2003 on the lot. Much different. I am currently trying to get the dealer to fix it. I have called the customer service 800 number and all they have to say is that it is only covered for 12,000 miles. Has anyone else had this problem? I have been driving manuals since 10, I know how to drive one, and this car is next to impossible to drive smooth. Any suggestions? Anybody else have this problem. Please help. Other than this the car has been great.
  • #222 of 223 Satisfied 2001.5 owner by homey5 Dec 10, 2003 (8:52 pm)
    First time to this board--had to throw my 2 cents in. I just scheduled my 2001.5 V6 Tip at the dealer for its first set of brakes w/ 85,000 miles on it. I'm seriously reconsidering after all of the msgs about $1000 brake jobs! I feel brakes are most impt and I'm willing to spend the money (within reason) to get the same quality as original. Is it a foregone conclusion that aftermarket shops like NTB or Pep Boys use lower quality parts to cut the price? Will I really save that much? I don't have time to do my own brakes any more. Any advice?

    BTW, I have had precious few problems with this car (I hate to say it--I'm knocking on wood as I type)--BY FAR the best car I've owned in 25 years of driving. An absolute blast to drive! Yeah, I've replaced a couple of DRL's--no surprise after 85K, but they take 5 minutes to replace at $15 each. No big deal.

    My only complaint is the need for premium gas--it really adds up when you drive 30K miles/yr but the mileage is very good (mid 20's overall, even w/ 75 MPH highway driving). I would buy another in a heartbeat, in fact I'm seriously considering the Toaureg for my family when the venerable minivan dies. If only they would change the name...I really hate that name!

    ------------------------------------------------------------------ - ---------------
    Hey man,

    I have allways used regular in my 02 glx V6. It runs great.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Okay, you say you drive 30,000 miles a year, get mid 20's MPG (let's call it 25 MPG).

    That's 1,200 gallons of fuel per year. Around here, the price differential is $0.20 between regular and premium (although it's dropped to a narrower range lately). So 1,200 X .20 = $240 per year, $20 a month, $.66 a day or $0.008 per mile driven.

    Some say that you get better fuel economy with the recommended fuel than with lower octane. I've never actually confirmed it. Power definitely gets rolled back, if the engine senses any knock. Car & Driver magazine On Line has an interesting article on this very topic (keyword is "premium").

    Given the price of the car and the performance it gives, I don't see it as such an onerous cost. I view using synth oil versus dino the same way (but I drive a turbo, so more critical for me than you). YMMV (and probably does!).
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Okay, folks, I just completed the replacement of the OEM wiper insert on the new style aero wipers on my '03 wagon. The chattering/stuttering during the heavy rains that rolled through here recently forced the issue.

    I used the tripledge 22" standard refills. You need to pull the rubber insert out of the holder on these blades in order to place them in the aero blade.

    Total time: 20 minutes, including time to search for some tools.

    Tools needed: Pliers, small flat blade screw driver (optional), sharp knife (utility type), and a rag to prevent scraping the plastic end caps on the OEM wipers.

    Degree of difficulty: Easy.

    Total Cost: $6.88 plus tax (purchased at Walmart).

    Money saved: about $55 over buying OEM replacments.

    Can't wait for the next snow/sleet event to try them out. Using just the washers, they glided silently across the windshield.
  • bronsonbbronsonb Posts: 170
    Thanks to altair4 for posting his instructions and experience with replacing the wiper blades on his Passat. I stopped by Advance Auto Parts yesterday evening and picked up a pair of 22" inserts (plus a new wiper for the rear window - thankfully that's a regular wiper).

    It only took me about 15 minutes to do the replacement (I really expected it to take at least twice that). I used a screwdriver to pry off the end caps. One end of the wiper has a metal tab holding the blade in (I did not see such a tab on the other side). I pried the tab up a littler, and "voila" out came the blade.

    The new blades went in effortlessly except for a spot where the blade had some sort of glue applied to hold it to the metal holder that the blade came in. I scraped that off, and it fit fine. After I inserted the new blade, I used a pliers to crimp the tab back down. Easy as pie. I replaced the end caps (again, very easy), and then slid the wipers back on the arms.

    When we did a test wipe, there was no clattering, and the window was swept clean.

    Total cost for front wipers: $5.23 That sure beats paying $80 at the dealer.

    Take care!
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    that feeling of satisfaction from a job done well and money saved! It works for me.
  • True speed is 6 MPH slower than indicated by needle. When examined by the dealer under new car warrenty he stated that this was within the manufacturer specifications. Question: Since the effective speed is 54MPH vs the indicated 60MPH and the odometer milage is based on vehicle speed therefore the warrenty is effectively shortened and warrenty for attaching parts is also shortened. Am I being cheated.
  • Hi folks. My wife drives a 2002 AWD Passat with about 20,000 miles on it. She could not start it this morning and had to call AAA (I was out of town). AAA came out and the guy was able to start the car by holding his foot on the gas and turning the key until it started.

    My wife called the dealer and was asked if we had turned on the engine, moved the car a few feet, and turned it off. As a matter of fact, last night, I did just that (out of the garage to take out the trash). He told her that is what caused the problem this morning. He said something about the lifters not having enough time to do whatever they&#146;re supposed to do and the car needs to run for about 5 minutes. I didn't speak to him, so I can't quote him directly.

    This sounds like a load of you-know-what. Has anyone ever experienced anything like this before? I can't believe this is an issue, the car has been serviced regularly and is in excellent condition.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Yes, the start/stop thing has been posted around the web. I don't know that the reason given by the dealer is correct, but this has happened to others, most frequently to people who start their car, pull out of the garage to wash it, and then try to restart it later to pull in. The engine management system, for some reason, floods the engine and it won't start easily.

    It's never happened to my '03, so perhaps they changed the engine mapping on the chip. OTOH, I never do this since I've heard of the issue before I bought the car.
  • Thanks for the heads-up. This is one of the stranger problems I've ever ran across. I guess I'll keep the engine running while taking out the trash!

    Sounds like a defect that should be taken care of by Volkswagen, but I guess it's not critical.

    Have a great holiday!
  • reidkreidk Posts: 46
    Happened once to my '99 (V6) + a had similar case when car came back from body shop (had been hit from rear while stopped at RED LIGHT - fortunately only minor damage to bumper...) with "Check Engine" light ON: answer from dealer both times was that 'very short Engine On / Engine Off cycles can fool the engine computer into thinking something is wrong.'

    There was a TSB on this problem for early B5s:
     "1998 and 1999 Passat 2.8L V6. Engine Cranks But Will Not Start.
     If you experience engine cranks but will not start on a 2.8 Liter V6 Passat, perform the repairs listed in Technical Bulletin Group15, Number 00-01, dated March 24, 2000."

     I found a copy of a similar AUDI TSB (also for the 2.8 liter engine) & put it in the glove box (just in case....): basically says "Hold throttle open and crank until engine starts..." (Perhaps with some basic diagnosis thrown in beforehand).
     FWIW, have read discussion elsewhere of similar problems with some BMW's, and Speculation that [Perhaps] "the Passat shares a similar Bosch or Siemens engine management system as the
  • Hi Folks, I have a three day-old Passat GLX 4-Motion Wagon (paid $32,000) which is now in the shop. After enduring 12+ years of driving a trouble-free but uninspiring Honda Civic DX we decided to upgrade to a safer, more enjoyable family car. I was really happy for the first two days but then, with my father visiting for the holidays, the passenger window slowed to a halt with a groan. After a few attempts to open and close it it finally retracted with a sickening grinding crunch. A noticeable electrical and plastic smell was evident and I took it to the dealer as soon as possible the next day. It will be in the shop at least 2 days and need a complete new window regulator (with pinch protection) - it apparently became tangled on the control wires and cut through them. My wife tells me she read about someone else having this problem - when two people tried to raise and lower the power windows simulataneously. Has anyone out there heard of this or am I just very unlucky. The euphoria in the first two days were great. At least I had a good reply to the dealer during the 48 hour follow-up call...
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    >>My wife tells me she read about someone else having this problem - when two people tried to raise and lower the power windows simulataneously.<<

    Maybe I'm missing something here, but I don't see the connection (bad pun) between what happened to you with the wiring and what your wife read. If the wires were incorrectly placed, then it would happen regardless of one window or all windows opening.

    OTOH, some VW's have had issues with the window regulators and the pins that hold the glass in place.

    PS: Don't you hate it when your car does something like that when your dad is visiting? Did you get "the look" from him?
  • Yes, My father was disapproving to begin about this car and now he feels totally vindicated. He still insists on roll-up windows, even if it means waiting months for a custom delivery...

    The Passat wagon is still in the shop - the window regulator part was only ordered today - from the East Coast. The shop is closed for the Holidays so it looks like I'll be taking the rental up to Sequoia Nat. Park in the snow this vacation (another Honda Civic - Ugh!). I guess it serves me right for getting a car so close to the trip and not having enough time to break it in.

    My friend tells me parts distribution for German cars is terrible. Japanense cars have the speediest distribution...
  • Did I get ripped off? Had my 2000 passat in for an EML light. Service told me battery was getting weak, but if I get it at an independent dealer, then all of the electronics will be off and need to be reset by VW for about $80. Since my daughter is the driver and she usually has the car at school,350 miles away, I did not want to risk her safety. They replaced it with a VW battery for $165. That is quite an expensive battery-was the fear factor bogus? It is a GLS, no power seats, aftermarket radio so that would not need to be reset-service guy said there are a lot of settings regarding the engine, timings etc.
  • I am looking to replace my 93 Olds Custom Cruiser station wagon (they don't make them that big any more) and several friends are happy with their Passats so I went looking yesterday.

    It was raining as hard as it ever has in the SF bay area but the sales guy insisted I drive this '04 GLX 5 speed wagon. He was soaked by the time he brought it around.

    I am 6' 3" and was impressed by the leg room. I opted not to drive the freeway and took it down the street next to the dealer. I stayed away from any puddles, drove slowly and never got past 3rd gear.

    I was almost back to the dealership when the everything went dead. The engine stopped and every light went off. It was a total electric shutdown.

    We walked back leaving the car in the middle of the street. I had a raincoat but the poor salesman only had his suit.

    Was this a freak occurance or another symptom of VW's electrical problem legacy? Any comments as to the cause?
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    What was the salesman's response to teh situation? I am sure that that has occured with outher VW's, but overall I would think that is a rare happening.
  • Hi,

    I have a 2004 GLX 4motion automatic wagon with 3500 miles. The engine makes a low and loud rumbling sound when idling in park, or neutral or drive. Also seeing average 17MPG in town and best I ever got on highway is 22.5 MPG.

    VW tech listened to te engine and said it is normal to have some low rumbling on this v6 becasue of second air pump. He said if noise gets louder, he will check it at 5K service. Tech also advised that mileage will get better after break-in.

    I also have a 2002 GLX v6 sedand with 5-speed and 35K miles. Never heard any rumbling, the car is silent in neutral. Also always had good mileage and typically see 27 MPG on daily hwy commute.

    Any feedback is really appreciated!
  • lancerfixerlancerfixer Posts: 1,308
    ...but you're going to take a mileage hit with AWD. You've just added a couple hundred pounds of rotating mass your engine has to propel...mileage would suffer correspondingly.
  • elag1elag1 Posts: 11
  • mgram1mgram1 Posts: 1
    Hi, I have a 99 Passat V6 with just 58000 miles on it. Have had several recalls and "warranty repairs" and fiascos getting service. Too long to tell all here. Now am told that the steering (control arms and end links)needs replacement ($1250!!!)because the car sounds like the whole front suspension is shot every time I turn the wheels.
    My (extensive) experience with Toyota is that at least they try to turn their lemons in to lemonade and come to a fair settlement. VW says "tough luck" as though it is a pretty common thing for your steering to wear out with less than 60k on the car. Other experiences out there?
  • The dealer called me back regarding the problem where the car went dead during the test drive. All he had was that the mechanics charged the battery and he went on to say how batteries go dead after sitting in the lot for long periods.

    Even if the battery had been dead, the vehicle had been running at least 15 minutes and went dead while I was driving it. There had to be a bad connection somewhere.

    I am still considering buying a Passat but I don't think I want that particular vehicle.
  • My friend parked her 2000 Passat in the driveway during a very rainy night. The next day, the front and rear floor on the passenger side was soaked. The dealer replaced the seal around the "pollen filter" and the also the carpet, all under warranty. They stated that they had seen this before. She is not sure exactly where this pollen filter is but since the front of the car was higher then the back, she assumed the filter was near the front on the car.
  • elag1elag1 Posts: 11
    Thanks for the info.This at least narrows it down for me . Have any others out there experienced this water in foot well problem???
  • You mentioned having this problem "after it rains" - not sure if you mean the car is parked during the rainstorm or if this occurs after driving in the rain. This may not apply but I did have a vehicle (not a VW) that would get a soggy footwell when I drove in the rain. It ended up being the screw hole that they drilled to secure the floor mat hardware...water was splashing up and into the car. I don't know if VW secures their mats by drilling through the floor.
  • Anyone who owns a VW will probably tell you about electrical problems. We've replaced the radio head unit once under warranty and now we only get the local FM station (2 mi away), no AM and the tape unit will some times start playing on its own. The dealer wants close to $1000 to replace it along with the antenna, which he says is causing the poor reception

    Anyway, since we have a factory 6 disc changer I was hoping to replace just the head unit. I hear that after market units in VWs are tricky and may void VW from working on your car. Anyone have advice as to what unit looks good, gives decent sound along with (or without) the XM unit and what to watch out for during the install?
  • elag1elag1 Posts: 11
    thanks for the info ... my probem occurs both while driving and while car is parked ...from what I can see I don't think the mats are secured as you described ..but I'll have it checked out
  • I too have a problem with water, but in the back Drivers side foot well - in fact yesterday I had had over an inch of water there. I then checked in the engine and found that the Section that houses the battery and the Brake Fluid was full of water 4-5 inches. I presume these two are related but have no ideas what's causing it - does anybody have any other ideas of what's causing it ???? (After draining out the water in the engine compartment and mopping up the foot well as best I could - I went for a drive of half an hour, but again found the foot well filling up, so obviously it has a reservoir of water somewhere replenishing it ???)
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    I believe that there is a drain hole located under the battery. Remove the battery and clear the drain hole (probably leaves or what-have-you). Others here may have other comments.

    Have your radio code'll need it after removing the battery. Or you can use one of those 9v battery computer memory savers.
  • I purchased my 2000 Passat (59,000 miles) from Carmax in August 2003 and have been quite happy with it so far. That is, until this past Saturday, when the car began smoking excessively from the exhaust and I was forced to turn around a few minutes from home. I had the car towed to my mechanic who says he can't figure out the problem. He says it might be an intermittent problem because apparently the car went "full rich"--meaning it began dumping straight fuel into the cylinders, which washed out the piston rings, and caused the car to start burning oil. When they took the spark plugs out they were covered in soot and smelled of fuel.

    The car smoked a bit when they started testing it, but since hasn't done it (it's been at the shop three days now and they've tested it each day). They say the car looks fine and that everything's running okay for now. The problem is, they say this could happen again and until they can determine the problem it can't be fixed. Apparently something like this could be an easy fix, or end up costing thousands down the line.

    Has anyone heard of this happening? Do you know the cause? It was about 6 degrees Saturday morning so perhaps the extreme cold triggered something. The car is not under any type of warranty but I wonder if Carmax sold me a car with problems (though they have a "quality check"). Any advice is appreciated.
  • I imagine that you got a Check Engine Light or Emissions Workshop light, right?

  • mkarpmkarp Posts: 22
    I have a 03 1.8t w/ 13k and this morning while doing about 40mph my engine light started blinking, and the car started hesitating. this happened for about 5 seconds and stopped. Does anyone know what this might be. The car was warmed up, but it is about 3 degrees here today in NJ.
  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    It sounds like it may be the Coil Pack problem. Do you know if you have the old or updated versions of coils.
  • mkarpmkarp Posts: 22
    How would I know what version (old or new coils)? I purchased the car in Jan 03, I thought back than when I was reading about the coil problems they were corrected by that time. Is there a certain build date that they corrected the problem by?
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Okay, the old "H" series coil packs were used on cars with a build date sometime before August 2002. I have an 03 (june 02 build date) and it came with the H series.

    You can find your build date on the driver's door jamb, on the door frame.

    To verify the coil pack used, you'll need to remove the engine cover (I think there are three "quarter-turn" fastners). The coil packs are the four black units on the top of the engine. Just take a peek at the part number...ends in H is the problematic series. If it ends in J or later letter, you've got the new series. If it's the old series, call your dealer to get the new ones under the recall program.

    What's the status of the engine light now? Is it off? If blinking, you're supposed to stop the engine, I believe. Take a look at your owner's manual.

    While I've got your attention, check to see if you have the updated rear wheelwell guard, also under recall. You can tell it's the new one if you can see shiny steel under the right rear fender, behind the wheel.
  • altair4altair4 Posts: 1,469
    Okay, I'm stumped. As many of you know, the battery on the Passat is located under the black cowling, between the engine and the windshield.

    I want to check the condition of the pollen filter, battery and that crazy drain hole under the battery, but for the life of me, I can't get that black rubber gasket, that holds the cowling in place, off of the car.

    I've tried starting it from the center and from the corners, but it's not budging. Which way does it peel off? Do you start it by pulling from the windshield side forward, the engine side backward, or what? I know I'm gonna tear that thing - it's like it's glued to the metal.

    Any helpful tidbits of advice on the removal would be most appreciated!
  • grega1grega1 Posts: 4
    I haven't read too much about engine replacements for Passats. Our 2002 with 22,000 miles threw the rods completely blowing the engine. The local dealer is going to replace the engine since it's under warranty. They told us the new engine would be in last Monday and as of Saturday they don't even have the engine. We've had the car serviced every 5000 miles. Along with turn signal and recall repairs, we've already added new brakes. I hope this is unusual!
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