I am confused by a couple of things in your post...first you said: "Several days later, he informed me that the factory rep was declining to cover this under the warranty because of my maintenance records, (they said I didn't have all of the oil changes that I should have)."
Then you said: "I performed every required maintenance at the dealer - though I was due for a maintenance."
So the dealer should have every receipt for maintenance performed. How did the factory rep determine that you didn't have all of the required oul changes? I'll ask the same questions that holenone79 asked. What was your oil changes at 5,000 mile intervals? Where did you have the changes done - all at the dealer or not? Do they not have all of your records? Were you due, or over-due?
If I were you, I'd pull all of my own records and see what's been done. If you don't have all of the receipts from your dealer, ask then for copies. If all is in order, then I'd call VW and see if they couldn't be persuaded to replace the engine. IF they won't, I'd consider retaining an attorney to see what could be done. For $10K, I'd argue and fight. Maybe small claims court is the way to go, if the monetary level doesn't exceed the purview of that level of the court system.
Ugh. I just found out they need to replace the engine in my 03 W8 wagon (12,500 miles). There were problems with the cam shaft adjuster that they could not fix.
Has anyone else had a problem of this magnitude? I called VW of America and told them I wanted either a new vehicle or for them to buy the car back from me. This is the fourth VW I've owned over the past 12 years. We also currently have an 03 turbo Beetle convertible. I hope my brand loyalty counts for something, but something tells me not to expect them to go for either remedy.
I'd love to hear any suggestions on how to proceed, similar situations/remedies from others. Having a new engine in the vehicle would seem to hurt me come resale or trade-in, not to mention other problems that might occur based on a major repair.
Sorry to hear about your engine problems. BUT, why should VW replace your entire car when the engine is the only defect? I know it's not what you wanted to happen, but you are getting a brand new engine with 0 miles on it. That could be consdered a good thing. It was unfotunate what happened, but at least they are agreeing to a complete engine replacement. Good luck.
Thanks for your reply. Actually, VW isn't agreeing to an engine replacement; they're doing it out of necessity because the original one is no longer serviceable. Their call, not mine.
My first reaction when I heard I was getting a new engine was, "Cool. Zero miles on a year-old car." But then I thought about how prospective buyers (individuals or dealerships) could run a CARFAX report on the vehicle and use an engine replacement to drive down re-sale or trade-in value.
I don't know much about cars but it's hard for me to separate the engine from the rest of the vehicle (especially when the engine cost $28k and the car costs $40k.) The car just feels like damaged goods now, even with a brand new engine. Maybe that's because I saw it dismantled in the dealer's service area, and can't imagine it being rock-solid going forward.
1)The engine does NOT cost $28,000. It is a very expensive item, but I would bet it does not cost over 3/4 the price of the car.
2) A new engine would NOT show up on CARFAX. If that were the case, a new or rebuilt transmission would be referenced on CARFAX. Severe accidents, salvage and odometer readings are what shows up in CARFAX reports (among other items).
I hate to say this, but it sounds like this engine replacement situation is causing bad feelings on your part and it is making you uncomfortable. If VW based car replacement decisions on how the customer "feels", then they would be out of business. In previous cars, I have bad experiences with interior rattles and those noises drove me crazy. VW can't just replace my car because of these bad feeling I had. I know rattles and an engine replacement are not of the same magnitude, but I was just trying to make a point.
Your car will drive the same or better with the new engine. If you purchased (rather than leased) your W8, then just think that you have more future miles out of this engine that the original. Your car should not feel like "damaged goods".
BTW: VW IS agreeing to replace your engine. They could try and repair it or they can replace the entire engine......which it sounds like they are doing. I applaud VW for that decision.
If they do what they're suppossed to do, the engine replacement should be like a new car. It's a nice car, maybe you should think of it as almost new, and plan to keep it until it's not worth anything. What kind of warranty is VW giving you on the new engine?
Thanks for your reply. Actually, VW isn't agreeing to an engine replacement; they're doing it out of necessity because the original one is no longer serviceable. Their call, not mine.
My first reaction when I heard I was getting a new engine was, "Cool. Zero miles on a year-old car." But then I thought about how prospective buyers (individuals or dealerships) could run a CARFAX report on the vehicle and use an engine replacement to drive down re-sale or trade-in value.
I don't know much about cars but it's hard for me to separate the engine from the rest of the vehicle (especially when the engine cost $28k and the car costs $40k.) The car just feels like damaged goods now, even with a brand new engine. Maybe that's because I saw it dismantled in the dealer's service area, and can't imagine it being rock-solid going forward.
Would anyone know how to open up the Passat 04 remote key fob? ONe of ours went through laundry is misbehaving, and I wanted to do hard power recycle. On the same note, I have another (extra) Passat remote that I have programmed for this car. Would someone know how to swap a master key into this remote fob?
Help me out, guys. I park in an underground garage. Once I have parked, and am getting out, or getting my stuff out of the back, or even walking away, I hear this FRIGHTENING "THUNK" that seems to come from somewhere under the car. Maybe its from the engine compartment. The car is a GLX 4Mo, and I did not have this problem for the previous 18000 miles. The dealer is stumped. Its not always possible to reproduce this sound in the service garage, but it rarely fails me, either at home or work.
I called my service desk, and they ran a software check on my car. It did not "qualify" for this software update.
Above, I had mentioned the "thunk". Could this be the vaccuum pump or so? I did an oil analysis of the 0W40 M1 after 7K on the same oil, and it stated that no corrective action needs to be taken. However, I do not have any normative data to compare the results to. So, what do I do?
I have a 2003 Passat (1.8T) and I drive to work 25miles one way on the highway everyday. I pump the 93Octain fuel and I get pretty just over 30MPG weekly including the little bit of city driving. I made a long distance trip (about 300miles) one time and I got around 32-33MPG. I'm really impressed with the milage and also I should mention I'm not a really agressive driver... but I do like to leave cars behind sometimes... specially if they are up my rear!
Hi VW fans! I have a 2003 Passat sedan (1.8T) manual. I'm just over the 15000 miles so got to pull in for the service soon. I'm just wondering, if anybody has had any major problems with this model or anything I should look out for? So far the car is great and haven't had any problems.
Hi, Wanted to share my experience and would like hear others view. I just got back from SunnyvaleVW dealer, had a worst experience. I got my VW passat 2001 serviced(40K mile) last week. While i was driving to Sacramento i started hearing rattling noise, i pulled over and noticed a plastic cover(supposdely engine cover) below engine chasis had come down, when i took the car to dealer, they are balming the damage to be done by me. I havent hit any curb or any objects which could have worn out the cover, best part is they are saying the center hold was broken because of which the whole thing came down. While i tried to explain to them that during last service they forgot to put a bolt on left side owing to which it came down and starting rubbing against the road, which caused the center hold to break, but to my disappointment they are not ready to listen. Any ides where i can get this fixed? Where do generally VW customers get their car serviced, at dealers labor is expensive. For putting a bolt to above mentioned problems they wanted 60$. Help appreciated.
Also have a 99 V6 GLS, 5spd, now closing in on 60K. Car has been driven spiritedly (am nearly 10K into 3rd set of tires), but not Excessively hard (still running original brake pads), and gas mileage remains excellent (around 28 mpg over last 6 tanks, 40-50% freeway - which means 75 - 85 mph to avoid getting rear ended...).
Noticed a low speed "clunking/creaking" over weekend, but did not think much about it until Monday: it is obviously getting more noticeable. Have not been able to tie it to APPLYING brakes, and "everything" seems normal (no pull, no apparent drag, gas mileage remains high) - the only obvious difference is that the suspension does not seem quite as Competent as earlier, especially over sharp bumps.
There are a lot of possibilities, most of them probably not Good News - especially as getting going today brought to mind all the creaking and groaning displayed when below ship in "Master and Commander!" Know car is about due for new brakes, but if this is merely the "low pad warning" it seems excessively alarming....
I noticed that there have been quite a few topics having to do with this subject, but not a whole lot of replies, so I'm hoping that maybe someone has found some new information on this problem. I have a 2000 Passat (1.8T) with about 45000 miles on it. For the past several months the check engine light has stayed on, and the emissions workshop warning displays every time I start driving the car. There's no functional problem with the car (runs fine, gas mileage is the same) but since I've moved to a different state, the process for emissions testing is different and I can't pass with the check engine light on. So, I have to get this fixed here soon, and I'd like to get an idea of what I'm up against before I take it into any shop. Also, while I'm on the subject of repairs, does anyone know of a reliable VW shop in or around Dayton, Ohio? I would greatly appreciate any info anyone can share.
I'm betting your problem is the Mass Airflow Sensor, a common problem with VW. Then there are the hundreds of other possibilities - frankly, I can't imagine driving around with the CEL on for any length of time, but to each his own...
I just went to pick up my Passat form the dealer. They were looking at my cd player and a rattle in the dash. They need to replace the cd player. As far as the dash rattle goes...they drove the car, heard the rattle and proceeded to remove the glove box and the lower part of the dash. They went on a 25 mile test drive and advised that all noises were gone. I picked up my car and within 5 miles I heard the buzzing/rattle. I really don't understand how they could drive 25 miles, with the quality control tech in the car as well, and not hear what I am hearing. The part that really gets me is when I called to make the appointment a different advisor answered and said he knew what the problem was because several passat's came in with the same noise. So, I was confident that the rattle would be detected and resolved. If they were not able to find the rattle, thats one thing, but don't tell me that the noise is gone when it is obvious its still there. I called and left the advisor a message and am waiting for his call back.
One good thing I can say is they seem to have put everything back together well.
I spoke a little too soon. I went out to my car during lunch and noticed that the dealer failed to replace the screw cover near the gear shifter on the drivers side. So, the bare screw is visible. It's not the end of the world, but still gets me irritated. The plastic cover piece is about 1" X 1/2".
Thanks for the tip. My dad (the previous owner) actually had this problem worked on 3 or 4 times, and each time the light came back on. I'm just trying to get it taken care of once and for all and hoping that his mechanic was the problem...
I now have noticed slight damage to my rear bumper that occured when my car was at the dealer. It looks like they backed it into a pole. They are repairing it on Tues. Also, the dash rattle has gotten worse. They will also look at that on Tues. I hope I don't regret buying another vw.
Has anyone ever heard of a steering cage breaking or leaking? I have 85k on my '02 Passat, and have to replace this, and it is going to cost approximately $1,200.00. Has anyone ever had a car in their life that has had this problem? Any ideas on what could cause such a thing to happen?
Do you suggest I contact VW direct, or the Attorney generals office? I think this is something that sounds obsurd, since I treat my car well (even with the mileage I do/did).
It sounds very unfortunate that you are having problems with your Passat. But, I don't think you have any recourse with VWoA. I almost guarantee that they will not be interested in helping financially. My wife had a '98 Accord that had it's transmission go at 75K miles. Honda was willing to provide a 20% discount on a new transmission ($5200). I thought it was also absurd that a transmission needed replacing at that low mileage. Obviously, with recent events, everyone knows Hondas weak link is the transmission.
The only thing I have in my favor is my dealership is nice. They are family owned, and I always help when willing. Like when my sunroof just shattered while driving down the interstate. I feel like I have a black cloud over my Passat. I have had to replace the windshield 5 times now because of chipped, then cracked glass from highway driving. In 2.5 years, 85K miles, I know things are bound to happen. But to have to replace a windshield so much when I don't have glass coverage in my state, is ridiculous. I started noticing that others had that too, so maybe it's a design flaw? But c'mon, the sunroof shattering glass on my head while driving on the interstate in rush hour, not good VW!
I bought a 2003 last July, and have 7K miles on it. Pro's are: great smooth ride, solid craftsmanship in construction, wonderful paint job - if you stick to a solid color (avoid silver and any blends, i.e. silver/blue). Con's: needs 93 octane gas (too expensive), not the greatest gas mileage (22-26 avg.) with a 4 cylinder, very difficult to change oil (if you do it yourself) - need toremove huge shield under car, with 10 different screws, and coolant overflow tank needs to be removed and hose disconnected to get at oil filter! I also had a check engine light go on in first six months and it was a sensor problem. For better quality - look at Toyota. If you don't mind the potential higher cost to maintain, then pull the trigger on an '03!!
vwcamper Toyota may have better quality, but they sure are boring to drive, just fine if you're only looking for a driving appliance. Why do you say avoid silver paint? The Reflex Silver paint on my 02'Passat is gorgeous, one of the best paint jobs I've seen, except for custom.
I second the notion on the Reflex Silver. I have this color on my '04 Passat and it looks great!! Also, on my previous Jetta or my current Passat I have never experienced any chips in the paint. It seems to be a very high quality paint.
I have a 2003 in Reflex Silver with the 1.8T and Tip transmission. The paint is immaculate. No problem with it at all and it hides dirt well. Here's a shot of mine:
Uses premium octane which costs a grand total of about $85 more a year (at 12,000 miles per year with a price differential of $0.16 between 87 and 93 AKI octane). Premium insures best economy and best performance.
If you DIY on oil changes, buy an oil extractor and never crawl under the car again. Loosen the clamp on the air intake hose to change the oil filter. No big deal.
I'm at 16,000 miles and 1.5 years of ownership without any issues. I get 21 mpg around town and 31 to 32 mpg on the interstates; I'm getting the EPA (city/highway) numbers (or better) most of the time.
Has anyone had their dash rattles fixed by the dealer? I have a rattle near the A Piller where the dash meets the windshield. I brought my Passat back in to the dealer yesterday and drove with the Quality Control tech. He heard the rattle and said he would try to attampt a fix. I know many others have experienced this specific rattle and I am curious whether any dealer has found the cause.
I have a 2003 Passat GLS 1.8T, Automatic Transmission, cold weather package, homelink, monsoon sound system and a few other goodies. I personally love my Passat. Such a smooth, peppy, FUN ride, the most well put togther interiors on a car I have ever owned, and safe safe safe! VW does recommend Premium gas which I don't mind paying for too much. The only problem I had was the coils; I had to have mine replaced with the new J coils and since then, no problems.
I don't understand the "avoid silvers" post. I have seen countless silver/silver combo VWs in our area and all looked beautiful. I wanted the Blue Silver but at the time none were available in my area...boo hoo I have Candy White and the paint was done perfectly.
The VW dealer provided me a loaner since my car is in the shop. I am driving a 2004 Chrysler Sebring. This car is a huge disappointment. It is so underpowered that it makes my previous 2.0 Jetta seem powerful. It is really sad that this car represents American car manufacturers. Compared to my Passat, the interior feels like a mid 90's Dodge Neon. Cheap plastic EVERYWHERE. I can't wait to get my car back!!!
Thanks, Carrie! My wife and I like it very much. I don't clean it as often as I would like and I only get a good polish and waxing done about twice a year. I do stay on top of the interior - a microfibre cloth gets the dust of the black leather super easily. I wish I could condition the leather more often - but that's life with a preschooler, isn't it?
I recently bought Passat GLS 1.8T and am experiencing a loss of pressure throughout the engine and gas tank system. The fuel cap light comes indicating the cap is not secured tightly. This light comes on when the gas tank is 1/3 full. The dealer ran a diagnostic and found a tiny leak but could not pinpoint its location. The dealer changed the sensor and a carbon-filter valve. But the gas cap is on again when the gas tank is 1/3 full. Has anyone experienced this problem?
My 2000 Passat V-6 generates a check engine light with an "Emissions Workshop" prompt. This started with about 35,000 miles - now has 46,000. It only happens in warm weather (above about 65 F) and with a nearly full gas tank. I know from a computer readout that the light is an "evaporative emissions" or something like that having to do with fuel vapor control. There was a recall about a hose and that was done. Actually, the first time the light came on was after the recall was completed. I tried a new gas cap. No help.
The headlight show on your car looks so crystal-clear. Did you use a detergent to clean it. After washing my 03 1,8T, I have to rub the headlights hard to make them clear but they turn opaque after several minutes. Please advise.
All I use is Meguiar's car wash in a bucket of clean, cool water. I've never given the headlight covers any add'l attention than the rest of the car. Just wash and then dry with The Absorber towel. I'm wondering if your covers are covered with fine scratches?
I found this on a deatiling website: >> Light Covers Plastic light covers scratch easily. After only a few months on the road, light covers will begin to show signs of wear. To keep light covers looking good, they must be regularly cleaned and polished.
You can clean and polish light covers with the part on the car, but I find it useful to remove the light covers at least twice a year. Doing so allows me to inspect the seal for wear, check for corrosion, and clean the painted area around the light. It also allows me to clean and polish the light cover much better than I could if the part was on the car. Most can be removed with a Phillips screwdriver.
For thorough cleaning and polishing, I use Meguiar's #17 and #10 Plastic Cleaner & Plastic Polish. To clean and lightly polish light covers while still on the car (monthly), I recommend Plexus.
I personally have never done this. I don't think the headlight covers come off the Passat, or at least not easily (I've never really looked). But this might give you some hints...Good luck.
Brand new Passat, the A/C blows warm air. Could be a plethora of things. If all the major parts are OK, and it is a leak, I hope to H&ll they can fix it and charge it. Hope it is not a bad compressor, condenser or evaporator.
Well not so. Took it in yesterday morning and picked it up in the evening, still not working. I'm pretty sure these guys did a phantom repair. Invoice reads, "replace seal evacuate and charge" I drove 4 miles and brought it back (could not leave it) The mechanic or "technician" drove with me. The OAT was about 80' and the AC was blowing 60' air. What gets me is they try to tell me that is good! On the way home it started blowing fog also.
Maybe I should try another dealer. They get three more chances before I can return the car (Maryland Lemon Law)
Sorry to hear about the problems. As far as the "fog" goes, its not fog. It is condensation from the ac system, which is normal. When the air inside the car is warm and the air coming from the AC is cold you will experience a slight "smoke effect". Once the air inside the car cools the condensation will disappear. This has happened numerous times in many different cars I have owned. This leads me to believe your ac is working properly.
If you truely believe the AC is blowing warm air, try to bring your car to another dealer. If you want to continue to allow the original dealer to fix your AC, go ahead and let them. But it would be helpful to get a second opinion from another dealer. Also, it's not as easy as returning or giving the car back to VW when using the lemon law. My Father just had his '03 350 Z bought back from Nissan and it was a good 6 month process.
I'm wondering if any one has had these problems...
Just purchased a 2004 Passat GLS 4Motion 5 speed and picked it up yesterday. Gave the car a thorough inspection before driving it off the lot. Everything worked as one would hope with a brand new car. When I got it home, my wife wanted to take a look at the inside of the car and tried to open the front passenger side door and the door would not open. It was if the door was locked, the handle moved but the door would not open. All the doors were unlocked. The door does open from the inside, however. Took it right back to the dealer, unfortunately the service department was closed. I'm going to drop it off tonight and they're going to give me a loaner while they "fix" it.
The other thing I noticed was that after the car has been parked for awhile, if I start it and back it up, I hear a crunching sound as I'm letting up on the clutch and I also feel it in the clutch pedal. This only happens once. If I try to back up again, I don't hear that sound unless I let the car sit for awhile. I'm going to tell the service department about this too.
Is this stuff I should be really concerned with? The car doesn't even have 100 miles on it yet. I already have post purchase chitters and this isn't making me feel any better... especially since my wife wanted me to buy a Volvo for it's reliability.
Congrats on your new VW. I would get cold feet if I were you. Just let the dealer take care of your problems and enjoy the car. I also bought a '04 GLS about 1 month ago and just got the car back from the dealer last week. They had to replace the stereo and fix a dash rattle. I got the car back and all was fixed. The car is silent as ever.
As far as the Volvo goes, I don't think they are known for their reliability.
I'm wondering if any one has had these problems...
Just purchased a 2004 Passat GLS 4Motion 5 speed and picked it up yesterday. Gave the car a thorough inspection before driving it off the lot. Everything worked as one would hope with a brand new car. When I got it home, my wife wanted to take a look at the inside of the car and tried to open the front passenger side door and the door would not open. It was if the door was locked, the handle moved but the door would not open. All the doors were unlocked. The door does open from the inside, however. Took it right back to the dealer, unfortunately the service department was closed. I'm going to drop it off tonight and they're going to give me a loaner while they "fix" it.
The other thing I noticed was that after the car has been parked for awhile, if I start it and back it up, I hear a crunching sound as I'm letting up on the clutch and I also feel it in the clutch pedal. This only happens once. If I try to back up again, I don't hear that sound unless I let the car sit for awhile. I'm going to tell the service department about this too.
Is this stuff I should be really concerned with? The car doesn't even have 100 miles on it yet. I already have post purchase chitters and this isn't making me feel any better... especially since my wife wanted me to buy a Volvo for it's reliability.
That sound you describe could be something I asked this forum about a month ago or so. The informative MarkCincinnati explained that the clunk sound I hear when I first move the car after starting is the ESP system initializing itself (you can search for his post for more detail), and that it's actually a sound you WANT to hear.
Hope that's what you have, and I hope that this helps.
As for general impressions, while I had buyer's remorse big time at first, I now love the car. I've now had my 2003 GL since last October. In the 15,000 miles since, it's become a real pleasure to drive. My long commute (mostly at highway speed) has become almost enjoyable, something I never thought I'd say. Aside from drivability, it's also a really comfortable interior to be stuck in. So far, no problems - I hope it lasts a long, long time. Good luck with yours.
Thanks for the response. I hope that's all that sound is too. I'm having a hard time finding the post from MarkCincinnati that you referred to, do you have a message number I can look up? Anyway, I have a long drive myself (110 miles roundtrip) and I love the way the car feels and handles. I almost don't mind being stuck in traffic... almost. I was just hoping to have the car for awhile before having problems like not being able to open the passenger door.
We like the car, other than the A/C and are inclined as you suggest, try another dealer for a fix. The dealer we purchased from has been open about a week, hence they had two Passat TDI Wagons to sell. The new dealership is impressive in architecture, and service bay wise but am wondering being new, where the techs have been. As far as Maryland lemon laws, I believe they are some of the best in the country if really necessary. An AC system should not be rocket science. This car barely gets to 55' output in re-circulation mode and is about 60' in fresh air mode. Compare that to a 2000 chevy at 44' and a 1997 dodge at 43'! Both are 52-54' in fresh air mode. In Washington DC's humid upper 90's the current temperature output of the VW will never keep up.
Hi Kvan, the post I referred to is actually over in the "Volkswagen Passat" discussion. It's # 7234. And I hope the door turns out to be an easy fix - in any case, maybe you can let us know what it was once it's diagnosed. You do have a long commute (mine is about 120 roundtrip... but no traffic to get stuck in, so maybe less time in the VW seats?)
Comments
Then you said: "I performed every required maintenance at the dealer - though I was due for a maintenance."
So the dealer should have every receipt for maintenance performed. How did the factory rep determine that you didn't have all of the required oul changes? I'll ask the same questions that holenone79 asked. What was your oil changes at 5,000 mile intervals? Where did you have the changes done - all at the dealer or not? Do they not have all of your records? Were you due, or over-due?
If I were you, I'd pull all of my own records and see what's been done. If you don't have all of the receipts from your dealer, ask then for copies. If all is in order, then I'd call VW and see if they couldn't be persuaded to replace the engine. IF they won't, I'd consider retaining an attorney to see what could be done. For $10K, I'd argue and fight. Maybe small claims court is the way to go, if the monetary level doesn't exceed the purview of that level of the court system.
Has anyone else had a problem of this magnitude? I called VW of America and told them I wanted either a new vehicle or for them to buy the car back from me. This is the fourth VW I've owned over the past 12 years. We also currently have an 03 turbo Beetle convertible. I hope my brand loyalty counts for something, but something tells me not to expect them to go for either remedy.
I'd love to hear any suggestions on how to proceed, similar situations/remedies from others. Having a new engine in the vehicle would seem to hurt me come resale or trade-in, not to mention other problems that might occur based on a major repair.
Thanks for any feedback.
Thanks for your reply. Actually, VW isn't agreeing to an engine replacement; they're doing it out of necessity because the original one is no longer serviceable. Their call, not mine.
My first reaction when I heard I was getting a new engine was, "Cool. Zero miles on a year-old car." But then I thought about how prospective buyers (individuals or dealerships) could run a CARFAX report on the vehicle and use an engine replacement to drive down re-sale or trade-in value.
I don't know much about cars but it's hard for me to separate the engine from the rest of the vehicle (especially when the engine cost $28k and the car costs $40k.) The car just feels like damaged goods now, even with a brand new engine. Maybe that's because I saw it dismantled in the dealer's service area, and can't imagine it being rock-solid going forward.
1)The engine does NOT cost $28,000. It is a very expensive item, but I would bet it does not cost over 3/4 the price of the car.
2) A new engine would NOT show up on CARFAX. If that were the case, a new or rebuilt transmission would be referenced on CARFAX. Severe accidents, salvage and odometer readings are what shows up in CARFAX reports (among other items).
I hate to say this, but it sounds like this engine replacement situation is causing bad feelings on your part and it is making you uncomfortable. If VW based car replacement decisions on how the customer "feels", then they would be out of business. In previous cars, I have bad experiences with interior rattles and those noises drove me crazy. VW can't just replace my car because of these bad feeling I had. I know rattles and an engine replacement are not of the same magnitude, but I was just trying to make a point.
Your car will drive the same or better with the new engine. If you purchased (rather than leased) your W8, then just think that you have more future miles out of this engine that the original. Your car should not feel like "damaged goods".
BTW: VW IS agreeing to replace your engine. They could try and repair it or they can replace the entire engine......which it sounds like they are doing. I applaud VW for that decision.
Again, Good Luck
What kind of warranty is VW giving you on the new engine?
Thanks for your reply. Actually, VW isn't agreeing to an engine replacement; they're doing it out of necessity because the original one is no longer serviceable. Their call, not mine.
My first reaction when I heard I was getting a new engine was, "Cool. Zero miles on a year-old car." But then I thought about how prospective buyers (individuals or dealerships) could run a CARFAX report on the vehicle and use an engine replacement to drive down re-sale or trade-in value.
I don't know much about cars but it's hard for me to separate the engine from the rest of the vehicle (especially when the engine cost $28k and the car costs $40k.) The car just feels like damaged goods now, even with a brand new engine. Maybe that's because I saw it dismantled in the dealer's service area, and can't imagine it being rock-solid going forward.
Your thoughts.........BB
Above, I had mentioned the "thunk". Could this be the vaccuum pump or so? I did an oil analysis of the 0W40 M1 after 7K on the same oil, and it stated that no corrective action needs to be taken. However, I do not have any normative data to compare the results to. So, what do I do?
BB
Wanted to share my experience and would like hear others view.
I just got back from SunnyvaleVW dealer, had a worst experience. I got my VW passat 2001 serviced(40K mile) last week. While i was driving to Sacramento i started hearing rattling noise, i pulled over and noticed a plastic cover(supposdely engine cover) below engine chasis had come down, when i took the car to dealer, they are balming the damage to be done by me. I havent hit any curb or any objects which could have worn out the cover, best part is they are saying the center hold was broken because of which the whole thing came down.
While i tried to explain to them that during last service they forgot to put a bolt on left side owing to which it came down and starting rubbing against the road, which caused the center hold to break, but to my disappointment they are not ready to listen.
Any ides where i can get this fixed?
Where do generally VW customers get their car serviced, at dealers labor is expensive.
For putting a bolt to above mentioned problems they wanted 60$.
Help appreciated.
-
Gp
Also have a 99 V6 GLS, 5spd, now closing in on 60K. Car has been driven spiritedly (am nearly 10K into 3rd set of tires), but not Excessively hard (still running original brake pads), and gas mileage remains excellent (around 28 mpg over last 6 tanks, 40-50% freeway - which means 75 - 85 mph to avoid getting rear ended...).
Noticed a low speed "clunking/creaking" over weekend, but did not think much about it until Monday: it is obviously getting more noticeable. Have not been able to tie it to APPLYING brakes, and "everything" seems normal (no pull, no apparent drag, gas mileage remains high) - the only obvious difference is that the suspension does not seem quite as Competent as earlier, especially over sharp bumps.
There are a lot of possibilities, most of them probably not Good News - especially as getting going today brought to mind all the creaking and groaning displayed when below ship in "Master and Commander!" Know car is about due for new brakes, but if this is merely the "low pad warning" it seems excessively alarming....
RK, SE MI
One good thing I can say is they seem to have put everything back together well.
Do you suggest I contact VW direct, or the Attorney generals office? I think this is something that sounds obsurd, since I treat my car well (even with the mileage I do/did).
thx
scott
Toyota may have better quality, but they sure are boring to drive, just fine if you're only looking for a driving appliance.
Why do you say avoid silver paint? The Reflex Silver paint on my 02'Passat is gorgeous, one of the best paint jobs I've seen, except for custom.
Uses premium octane which costs a grand total of about $85 more a year (at 12,000 miles per year with a price differential of $0.16 between 87 and 93 AKI octane). Premium insures best economy and best performance.
If you DIY on oil changes, buy an oil extractor and never crawl under the car again. Loosen the clamp on the air intake hose to change the oil filter. No big deal.
I'm at 16,000 miles and 1.5 years of ownership without any issues. I get 21 mpg around town and 31 to 32 mpg on the interstates; I'm getting the EPA (city/highway) numbers (or better) most of the time.
Carrie ~2003 VW Passat GLS 1.8T AT, Candy White/Beige Leather
I don't understand the "avoid silvers" post. I have seen countless silver/silver combo VWs in our area and all looked beautiful. I wanted the Blue Silver but at the time none were available in my area...boo hoo
I would recommend a 2003 VW Passat
Carrie ~2003 VW Passat GLS 1.8T AT, Candy White/Beige Leather
Any suggestions?
All I use is Meguiar's car wash in a bucket of clean, cool water. I've never given the headlight covers any add'l attention than the rest of the car. Just wash and then dry with The Absorber towel. I'm wondering if your covers are covered with fine scratches?
I found this on a deatiling website:
>>
Light Covers
Plastic light covers scratch easily. After only a few months on the road, light covers will begin to show signs of wear. To keep light covers looking good, they must be regularly cleaned and polished.
You can clean and polish light covers with the part on the car, but I find it useful to remove the light covers at least twice a year. Doing so allows me to inspect the seal for wear, check for corrosion, and clean the painted area around the light. It also allows me to clean and polish the light cover much better than I could if the part was on the car. Most can be removed with a Phillips screwdriver.
For thorough cleaning and polishing, I use Meguiar's #17 and #10 Plastic Cleaner & Plastic Polish. To clean and lightly polish light covers while still on the car (monthly), I recommend Plexus.
I personally have never done this. I don't think the headlight covers come off the Passat, or at least not easily (I've never really looked). But this might give you some hints...Good luck.
Could be a plethora of things. If all the major parts are OK, and it is a leak, I hope to H&ll they can fix it and charge it. Hope it is not a bad compressor, condenser or evaporator.
I drove 4 miles and brought it back (could not leave it) The mechanic or "technician" drove with me. The OAT was about 80' and the AC was blowing 60' air. What gets me is they try to tell me that is good! On the way home it started blowing fog also.
Maybe I should try another dealer. They get three more chances before I can return the car (Maryland Lemon Law)
If you truely believe the AC is blowing warm air, try to bring your car to another dealer. If you want to continue to allow the original dealer to fix your AC, go ahead and let them. But it would be helpful to get a second opinion from another dealer. Also, it's not as easy as returning or giving the car back to VW when using the lemon law. My Father just had his '03 350 Z bought back from Nissan and it was a good 6 month process.
Just purchased a 2004 Passat GLS 4Motion 5 speed and picked it up yesterday. Gave the car a thorough inspection before driving it off the lot. Everything worked as one would hope with a brand new car. When I got it home, my wife wanted to take a look at the inside of the car and tried to open the front passenger side door and the door would not open. It was if the door was locked, the handle moved but the door would not open. All the doors were unlocked. The door does open from the inside, however. Took it right back to the dealer, unfortunately the service department was closed. I'm going to drop it off tonight and they're going to give me a loaner while they "fix" it.
The other thing I noticed was that after the car has been parked for awhile, if I start it and back it up, I hear a crunching sound as I'm letting up on the clutch and I also feel it in the clutch pedal. This only happens once. If I try to back up again, I don't hear that sound unless I let the car sit for awhile. I'm going to tell the service department about this too.
Is this stuff I should be really concerned with? The car doesn't even have 100 miles on it yet. I already have post purchase chitters and this isn't making me feel any better... especially since my wife wanted me to buy a Volvo for it's reliability.
As far as the Volvo goes, I don't think they are known for their reliability.
Just purchased a 2004 Passat GLS 4Motion 5 speed and picked it up yesterday. Gave the car a thorough inspection before driving it off the lot. Everything worked as one would hope with a brand new car. When I got it home, my wife wanted to take a look at the inside of the car and tried to open the front passenger side door and the door would not open. It was if the door was locked, the handle moved but the door would not open. All the doors were unlocked. The door does open from the inside, however. Took it right back to the dealer, unfortunately the service department was closed. I'm going to drop it off tonight and they're going to give me a loaner while they "fix" it.
The other thing I noticed was that after the car has been parked for awhile, if I start it and back it up, I hear a crunching sound as I'm letting up on the clutch and I also feel it in the clutch pedal. This only happens once. If I try to back up again, I don't hear that sound unless I let the car sit for awhile. I'm going to tell the service department about this too.
Is this stuff I should be really concerned with? The car doesn't even have 100 miles on it yet. I already have post purchase chitters and this isn't making me feel any better... especially since my wife wanted me to buy a Volvo for it's reliability.
Hope that's what you have, and I hope that this helps.
As for general impressions, while I had buyer's remorse big time at first, I now love the car. I've now had my 2003 GL since last October. In the 15,000 miles since, it's become a real pleasure to drive. My long commute (mostly at highway speed) has become almost enjoyable, something I never thought I'd say. Aside from drivability, it's also a really comfortable interior to be stuck in. So far, no problems - I hope it lasts a long, long time. Good luck with yours.
In Washington DC's humid upper 90's the current temperature output of the VW will never keep up.
And I hope the door turns out to be an easy fix - in any case, maybe you can let us know what it was once it's diagnosed.
You do have a long commute (mine is about 120 roundtrip... but no traffic to get stuck in, so maybe less time in the VW seats?)