The engine temp gauge on my 2003 1.8T Passat (52k, mostly urban, some hwy) has begun moving erratically...but not indicating that it is too hot - instead of taking a few minutes to reach 190 (middle of gauge), it hovers well under 190 and then will quickly reach 190, only to drop down to 90 (bottom cool end of gauge, and flutter back up. What's odd it that is never goes above it's normal level (190), but when the weather is 100 + outside, I can't imagine my running engine is actually cooler than that...? Help! Advice? Temp fluttering is erractic/random and not related to acceleration, etc.
This sounds like a bad engine coolant temperature sensor. Not an uncommon problem. The part is pretty inexpensive. Are you a DIY kind of person? Yeah? Then google "changing Passat coolant sensor" for instructions.
While driving down the road on my 1997 Passat Wagon, the car started smelling like something was burning, and the battery light was on. We pulled over and it seems like all the smoke was coming from the alternator.
How do you change the alternator easily? It's kind of wedged in there. Is the alternator the only problem? What would have caused this? Will putting in a new alternator fix the problem? Will I have to replace anything else?
Hi...can anyone offer some insight. Off and on, my fuel guage will dip down about a quarter of a tank and then suddenly go back up to where it should be. This tends to happen most often when I'm idling...however, this could be because this is when I can safely pay attention the fuel gauge. Regardless, I'm wondering what might be causing this? :confuse:
I was thinking about purchasing a timing belt kit from www.germanautoparts.com. I have purchased from them before and found them to be reliable. However, I was wondering if anyone had an opinion on purchasing OEM parts from someone other than a dealer for such an important mechanical function. In other words, is it a wise decision seeing that if something went wrong then, hey, you're looking at a new or rebuild engine.
I'm facing the same issue. I guess it depends on who will do the installation...
Let's say you are a DIY kind of person. Well, then I won't have any real issue with buying other than OEM parts.
OTOH, if you are planning to go to an Indy or dealer for service, they may be willing to use your parts, but they won't give a warranty on them. "So what?", you say.
What if they put the whole thing back together and the water pump leaks? The parts supplier will say it's the tech, and the tech will say it's bad parts. You will be stuck in the middle.
Personally, I think I going with OEM parts for everything other than the water pump. The OEM pump has a plastic impeller that has some history of deteriorating and jamming the blades. I'm going with OEM on everything else, including the O-ring on the water pump from VW. But I'll probably have the dealer do the work.
If I go to the indy shop, then I'll need to talk with them about the water pump construction first.
The website claims that all parts are OEM, except the aftermarket waterpump. They also claim that all parts come with the OEM mfr warranty. My tech says it'll cost me $300 to do all the work, the Dealer wants $760 for the same labor costs. The warranty that you receive from the Dealer does seem better (in theory), but they have their ways of getting around issues as well. So I'm in a bit of a dilemma and was wondering what others thought...
Hello all, I am new to this forum but I have a HUGE problem with my Passat.
It has a 5-speed manual transmission that has worked flawlessly for just about a year now, as long as I've had it. Just yesterday I drove it out to buy some new insurance for it and when trying to back out of my parking space, I realized I had no reverse. Once I got it on the road via pushing it, I soon realized I only had 3rd and 4th gear. To further detail the situation, when I shift up it will always go into third, when I shift down it will always go into 4th. It does not matter if I shift up and into a corner - I can put the shifter into the spot for first gear and it will go into third gear anyway. Better yet, while it is in gear I am able to move the shifter around horizontally as if there were no other gears to the sides, no resistance.
Once the car is up to a decent speed, third and fourth gears work perfectly like there is nothing wrong with the car. I guess it would be the transmission and the car is shot, but I just don't know. Any suggestions or ideas would be most appreciated as I am in no way prepared to junk the car.
I've purchased timing belt kits for both my 1.8Ts and my 1997 2.0L Jetta from germanautoparts.com (a.k.a. GAP in the world of 'dubbers like myself), and have had no problems or failures.
Continental is the supplier for the timing and serpentine belts, so make sure the belts you purchase outside of the dealer are made by Continental (or Conti for short).
In the case of the 1.8T, the timing belt kits usually include the upgraded waterpump with the metal impeller (instead of the OEM plastic waterpump), and that in itself makes buying the kit worthwhile...
Thanks for the info 600kgolfgt. Now the big question is, how much do I trust an indy mechanic to install this for me?? Do you think any mechanic s/b be capable, or do you think I need a VW specialist? After all, his screw-up could cost me a new engine...or, maybe not.
IMHO, if its a general mechanic that you know is competent and/or have had good references than I believe its OK. I know of Passateers that have had their mocal Midas do the TB change but they swore that they knew the mechanic personally. Otherwise, I'd go with an indy VW mechanic (if you know of any - I am fortunate that I have 2 close by me to go to) or pay and use the VW dealership. However not all VW dealers are created equal so you may need to re-assure yourself that they are competent.
From you earlier post, I thought the indy estimate was a little light - the dealership estimate is closer to reality. Again just my opinion and I hope this helps.
BTW, I had my TB @ 90K miles (I'm at 135K now) done by a dealership and I think they lost $ from my job becuase they didn't have the part they thought they did and I ended with a Jetta loaner for 2 days ...
Well, I'm biting the bullet and going w/ the dealer. The cost is $1100.00 which includes (TB, tensioner, idling roller, water pump (not aftermarket, unfortunately), serpentine belt, thermostat, and fuel filter.) I'd save several hundred by going to an indy but I don't know him well enough to trust his skills. And hey, when I'm rolling down I-85 with my 2 toddlers in the back seat, I want to be assured that this was installed correctly. Albeit, the person at the dealer might not be the wise old mechanic but he's sure to have have done a TB before.
Do you think any mechanic s/b be capable, or do you think I need a VW specialist?
I would definitely go to a mechanic who specializes in either European cars or VWs. I wouldn't recommend taking your car to just any shade tree mechanic.
It all boils down to your comfort level. If you have any doubts whatsoever, then take it to the dealer - which is apparently the option you have decided to take.
Best of luck - and please let us know the outcome of taking it to the dealer.
How often am I REALLY supposed to do oil changes? 5000k as the manual says or 7000k? Also, how often should I be doing trans fluid changes? I've seen 30000k on web.
My 04 passat with the 1.8t had major repair when my fan on the raditior went out at 65k.I had to get a head and valve job,also the part that mixes the oil and antifreeze cracked,the warning light came on recomending coolent check and that was it,no light on the fan going out,hopefully enought people will start a class action lawsuit.Five passats lined up right after mine all with the 1.8 t and over 60k in Houston Tx.
I have an 05 Passat Wagon 4 cyl turbo and am experiencing the exact same symptoms you wrote about.
The car is very cranky in the morning and particularly if it has not been driven for more than 24 hours.
It sputters ... the check engine light goes on and off and it generally gives the impression that it is about to break down because something is really wrong.
Then my wife turns around and comes home - takes my car and leaves me with the Passat. I work from home and when I go to test the vehicle a couple of hours later it always starts and drives fine. But it's not even cold out yet and I need this car to be a reliable morning car!
Did this ever get resolved for you? What can you tell me about the resolution?
Don't wait for Bonesy to reply...hasn't posted since April, 2006!
Have you had the computer scanned for codes? You can get this done at some of the national auto parts stores, like AutoZone and Advance Auto, for free. Post up the codes and/or just Google them and see what shows up.
we bought a blank key through eBay for about $50 and had it programmed by the dealer for an additional $90. Overall we saved about 40-50 bucks, the dealer wanted approx 220 for a replacement key. Yikes!!!
I have a 2000 Passat and the automatic shifter handle broke. The shaft it was on has a plastic piece coming out of the top that you have to lift in order for the shifter to move between gears. well that plastic piece broke i believe and does anyone no where i can go to replace that or fix it all. or let me know what that piece is.
My key has been "stuck" on the lock. I called THE DEALER AND THEY NEVER HEARD OF THIS HAPPENING, i BOUGHT THE KEY FROM THEM AND IT HAS NEVER WORKED MEANING THE FUNCTIONS EG LOCK, OPEN, ALARM ETC. i CANNOT DRIVE MY CAR THERE BECAUSE IT IS ALSO LOCKED AND THE KEY WILL NOT OPEN IT!!
I need to replace the vacuum hoses and had read about using high-temp silicone hoses. Can anyone make a recommendation on this since I don't want to purchase the OEM crap they use for vacuum hoses? I can't seem to find it at the big auto stores but can find it online (www.mcmaster.com). Any thoughts about what I should use?
Well I was only given one key when I first purchased the car and that key did not work nor the alarm. the key broke and I had to buy another one ($180) the new key only served to unlock my car and drive it. The other functions did not work, so I went back to the volkswagon dealer and they only responded that the alarm system was not working. They did not seem interested in helping me (Langan Volkswagon) they stated that they programed the key.
I'm finally getting the estimates on the timing belt/ water pump thing (at 85K on a 2003 Passat 1.8T) and want to move ahead - but the first estimate, from a respected foreign-car place, also adds the cost of replacing the 2 cam-crank seals with PTFE seals. The labor would cost. So -question - is it really necessary? It's being presented as preventive maintenance. i've never noticed any leakage. So: -- can I safely ignore this? Or not?
Funny you posted b/c my 2003 1.8T is still in the shop a week later b/c the Indy mechanic thought it was good "preventative maintenance" as well to replace the cam and crank seals. Well... I got it home and it was leaking oil. I spoke to the dealer and it was mentioned to me that this shouldn't need to be done (they don't do it). So the mechanic is tearing it all apart again. I'm quite upset over this b/c now who knows what he'll do in his quest to stop the leak; I'm afraid he'll start using some sort of adhesive or something like that in order to get it to stop. It might work in the short term but I'll be dealing with it later, I'm sure. I just purchased the Bentley's manual and it shows these 2 seals and mentions a special tool for removing and inserting the seals (I'm sure the mechanic does not have this tool). So if it's not fixed this time, it's off to the dealer to have it done and then small claims court to get my I'm sure $1000 returned for a dealer repair. BTW, mine never leaked a drop until this happened. So, my suggestion, don't let him touch the seals!
Next question: the dealership says one should NOT use the metal-impeller water pump. (The foreign-car mechanic says one should.) According to the dealer, they've "heard a lot about the metal-impeller pumps leaking." So they stick with the "genuine VW part," which is plastic. According to the foreign-car mechanic, the plastic-impeller water pumps, which were also adopted by BMW, sometimes disintegrate, sometimes badly damaging the engine. So they only use metal-impeller pumps. They also charge a lot more.
Brozhnik, I just got my Passat back and it was the cam seal that was leaking. I used OEM seals but the mechanic said he thought they were flimsy from the get-go. So he replaced the cam seal with an aftermarket which had a ridgid edge and an installer tool, too. I just find it hard to believe that the OEM part is to blame; my feeling is that he didn't use the tool initially and that was where the problem probably stems from. Oh well, we'll see what happens. He's a reputable mechanic, apparently. As for water pump, I replaced my with the aftermarket metal impeller one. I have read too many stories in multiple forums that recommend against the plastic impeller (I had mine returned to me after the new one was installed and it looked fine - I have nearly $100k miles on it). I had the whole timing belt kit (which I ordered online to save $$ - i can provide if you're interested). I'm no expert in any of these matters, but I have been reading many, many articles on these issues and went with what my gut told me. For your info, it cost me $350 for labor to install the whole timing belt kit (tb, water pump, stationary idler roller, serpentine belts, tensioner roller, and tensioner damper). And, this cost did include the seals. The dealer wanted $760, not including seals. So good luck on this and let me know what you decide. Oh yes, look at purchasing the Bentley's manual as you'll learn alot and know what questions to ask. I got it for $82 online. - Cheers!
I was talking with the last tech at the dealer who worked on my car. He had no problem with using the metal impeller pump, but I'd have to get it elsewhere. We talked a bit about leaks. It was his feeling that it has more to do with no damaging/pinching/rolling the seal than anything else. I'm thinking I'm going with an indy on this when I get to that point, and see what they use. I'm hoping they use the metal impeller and will stand behind their work if a leak does appear.
Amsoil full synthetic has the proper oil listed for the Passat requirements.
AMSOIL Synthetic European Car Formula is formulated to surpass the most demanding European specifications. It is recommended for European and North American gasoline or diesel vehicles requiring any of the following worldwide specifications:
API SM/CF ACEA C3-04 ACEA A3/B3-04 ACEA A3/B4-04 BMW LL-04 Mercedes Benz 229.31, 229.51 Porsche Saab Volvo Volkswagen 502.00, 505.00, 505.01
Just to clarify, none of the Amsoil products were on the actual "approved" oil list published by VWoA or AoA. I'm not saying it isn't the best thing since the Big Bang, I'm just saying it isn't on the list.
If you are under warranty and don't want any squabbles, bear that in mind. However, having said that, using Amsoil with within the 5,000 mile max OCI, you probably won't have any sludge issues anyway.
Amsoil doesn't have even a single oil that is certified to meet any of the standards listed a couple of posts back, not one. Given the questionable veracity of their advertising, I have to wonder about folks who are willing to bet their engines on the truthfulness of Amsoil's oil specifications.
FWIW, I wasn't directing this post at you, more to support what you were saying.
One thing I didn't know: I spoke to the parts guys at two different VW dealers and learned that VW no longer makes this part (water pumps for 2003 Passats 1.8t) - all they sell are remanufactured. One said he thinks the impeller is neoprene. The other said he didn't know, but it seemed to him (by feel) to be some kind of alloy, different from before. I guess I should ask VW of America....
My temp gauge was doing the same thing and it's due to the coolant temp sensor. This is a very common problem. You can pick one up for about $20 online (not sure what the dealer charges). You can install it yourself by using the instructions found on Google (search for: install coolant temp sensor passat). It's a pain but it can be done. Good luck.
When starting my car, the clutch goes all the way to the floor and the starter feels like it is trying to move the entire car. After the car is started, the gear changing is smooth. I don't feel the car pulling when I am at a stop light either. Thoughts, suggestions anyone?
Pat, I just purchased a 2007 Passat 2.0T auto trans wagon. Since it is a 4 cylinder, I never asked what grade gas it required. My manual says at least 87 octane but I have been told that it REQUIRES premium. What is really required? Boy do I feel stupid.
Required? No. Recommended? Yes. And you might find that running 87 instead of 91/93 will actually give you less MPGs than premium. Depending on the price point of each grade, it might actually be cheaper to run premium.
And let's look at the numbers:
Let's assume 15,000 miles a year driving, $0.25 a gallon difference in price between 87 and premium (the current difference in my market), and 22 miles per gallon (EPA city rating) for the year. For ease of discussion, we'll assume the same MPG using either grade....
So, you would use 681 gallons of fuel in a year. That's $170.25 difference between regular and premium a year, $14.19 a month, or $0.47 a day. Personally, I don't think that is price difference is that big a deal when you consider the price of the car.
Also, if you fact in the efficiency difference that might exist, it could easily be a moot point. YMMV, in the truest sense of the phrase.
Thanks a lot for the info. Will go with premium and see what mpg I get. Just wanted to be sure since I had read that running higher octane when not needed could screw up the computer metering. Will be taking two trips shortly, one about 300 miles and the other about 500 miles. Should be able to get an idea of what mpg I will be getting and how it performs.
I have a cracked CV boot on the driver's side of my 2003 1.8T Passat. My mechanic says to just replace the whole axle with an EMPI brand axle for the same cost of repressing, repacking the old joints, etc. Does anyone have experience w/ this? I don't mind putting on a new axle seeing that i have almost 100k on the current ones, but I hate to put a sub-standard axle on it. It seems to be a well known brand?? -thanks
I've just had my 2000 Passat in the shop (at the dealer) for a myriad of issues (92K miles) but they can't seem to fix the engine noise. When I turn on the car, a high pitched whine comes from the engine. It last about 30 seconds and then winds down and disappears. It's been happening for about a month. The dealer said that they found a loose hose & replaced a clamp. Maybe someone has had this problem and can tell me what's wrong?
Sounds like the secondary air injection pump. Same thing happens with my wife's '00. Aside from slightly worse emissions, I don't believe it adversely affects performance. It's just annoying as hell.
Thanks for the info! I'll probably bring it back to the dealer one more time since I've already paid to have it fixed, and then just learn to live with it if it continues.
Those prices sound not bad because when I fixed the rear brakes, the shop charged me $500 including parts and labor. If you like DIY, you might have enough tools and strong jack.
Comments
THANKS :surprise:
How do you change the alternator easily? It's kind of wedged in there. Is the alternator the only problem? What would have caused this? Will putting in a new alternator fix the problem? Will I have to replace anything else?
Thanks a lot!
Thanks
Let's say you are a DIY kind of person. Well, then I won't have any real issue with buying other than OEM parts.
OTOH, if you are planning to go to an Indy or dealer for service, they may be willing to use your parts, but they won't give a warranty on them. "So what?", you say.
What if they put the whole thing back together and the water pump leaks? The parts supplier will say it's the tech, and the tech will say it's bad parts. You will be stuck in the middle.
Personally, I think I going with OEM parts for everything other than the water pump. The OEM pump has a plastic impeller that has some history of deteriorating and jamming the blades. I'm going with OEM on everything else, including the O-ring on the water pump from VW. But I'll probably have the dealer do the work.
If I go to the indy shop, then I'll need to talk with them about the water pump construction first.
thanks Altair
It has a 5-speed manual transmission that has worked flawlessly for just about a year now, as long as I've had it. Just yesterday I drove it out to buy some new insurance for it and when trying to back out of my parking space, I realized I had no reverse. Once I got it on the road via pushing it, I soon realized I only had 3rd and 4th gear. To further detail the situation, when I shift up it will always go into third, when I shift down it will always go into 4th. It does not matter if I shift up and into a corner - I can put the shifter into the spot for first gear and it will go into third gear anyway. Better yet, while it is in gear I am able to move the shifter around horizontally as if there were no other gears to the sides, no resistance.
Once the car is up to a decent speed, third and fourth gears work perfectly like there is nothing wrong with the car. I guess it would be the transmission and the car is shot, but I just don't know. Any suggestions or ideas would be most appreciated as I am in no way prepared to junk the car.
Continental is the supplier for the timing and serpentine belts, so make sure the belts you purchase outside of the dealer are made by Continental (or Conti for short).
In the case of the 1.8T, the timing belt kits usually include the upgraded waterpump with the metal impeller (instead of the OEM plastic waterpump), and that in itself makes buying the kit worthwhile...
Thanks again.
Otherwise, I'd go with an indy VW mechanic (if you know of any - I am fortunate that I have 2 close by me to go to) or pay and use the VW dealership. However not all VW dealers are created equal so you may need to re-assure yourself that they are competent.
From you earlier post, I thought the indy estimate was a little light - the dealership estimate is closer to reality. Again just my opinion and I hope this helps.
BTW, I had my TB @ 90K miles (I'm at 135K now) done by a dealership and I think they lost $ from my job becuase they didn't have the part they thought they did and I ended with a Jetta loaner for 2 days ...
Lastly aftermarket OEM parts are OK by me.
I would definitely go to a mechanic who specializes in either European cars or VWs. I wouldn't recommend taking your car to just any shade tree mechanic.
It all boils down to your comfort level. If you have any doubts whatsoever, then take it to the dealer - which is apparently the option you have decided to take.
Best of luck - and please let us know the outcome of taking it to the dealer.
Also, how often should I be doing trans fluid changes? I've seen 30000k on web.
Re-read your manual carefully. Mine says that 5,000 miles is the maximum OCI and that under certain conditions it should be less.
What is this mixing part name?
Krzys
The car is very cranky in the morning and particularly if it has not been driven for more than 24 hours.
It sputters ... the check engine light goes on and off and it generally gives the impression that it is about to break down because something is really wrong.
Then my wife turns around and comes home - takes my car and leaves me with the Passat. I work from home and when I go to test the vehicle a couple of hours later it always starts and drives fine. But it's not even cold out yet and I need this car to be a reliable morning car!
Did this ever get resolved for you? What can you tell me about the resolution?
Thanks!
Have you had the computer scanned for codes? You can get this done at some of the national auto parts stores, like AutoZone and Advance Auto, for free. Post up the codes and/or just Google them and see what shows up.
Motronic Engine Mgmt System
P0300
Misfire recognized
P0301
Cyl 1
Misfire recognized
P0341
Camshaft Position (CMP) Sensor
Implausible signal
---------------------------------
Action taken:
The ECM was reflashed and I guess that cleared the codes.
Of course I really didn't know what that meant but upon some research it appears that the Engine Control Module (ECM) needed a software upgrade.
So they performed that programming upgrade using SVM and evidently that fixed the car ???? We'll see. I am not optimistic.
Do you have any thoughts on this one? That camshaft thing bothers me ...
-thanks
You will 3.5mm OD tubing and if you do all the vac hoses, ~10ft/3m is sufficient.
So: -- can I safely ignore this? Or not?
Thanks!
So, my suggestion, don't let him touch the seals!
Next question: the dealership says one should NOT use the metal-impeller water pump. (The foreign-car mechanic says one should.)
According to the dealer, they've "heard a lot about the metal-impeller pumps leaking." So they stick with the "genuine VW part," which is plastic.
According to the foreign-car mechanic, the plastic-impeller water pumps, which were also adopted by BMW, sometimes disintegrate, sometimes badly damaging the engine. So they only use metal-impeller pumps. They also charge a lot more.
Who to believe? Anyone know anything definitive?
Thanks again!
As for water pump, I replaced my with the aftermarket metal impeller one. I have read too many stories in multiple forums that recommend against the plastic impeller (I had mine returned to me after the new one was installed and it looked fine - I have nearly $100k miles on it). I had the whole timing belt kit (which I ordered online to save $$ - i can provide if you're interested).
I'm no expert in any of these matters, but I have been reading many, many articles on these issues and went with what my gut told me. For your info, it cost me $350 for labor to install the whole timing belt kit (tb, water pump, stationary idler roller, serpentine belts, tensioner roller, and tensioner damper). And, this cost did include the seals. The dealer wanted $760, not including seals.
So good luck on this and let me know what you decide. Oh yes, look at purchasing the Bentley's manual as you'll learn alot and know what questions to ask. I got it for $82 online.
- Cheers!
Passat requirements.
AMSOIL Synthetic European Car Formula is formulated to surpass the most demanding European specifications. It is recommended for European and North American gasoline or diesel vehicles requiring any of the following worldwide specifications:
API SM/CF
ACEA C3-04
ACEA A3/B3-04
ACEA A3/B4-04
BMW LL-04
Mercedes Benz 229.31, 229.51
Porsche
Saab
Volvo
Volkswagen 502.00, 505.00, 505.01
If you are under warranty and don't want any squabbles, bear that in mind. However, having said that, using Amsoil with within the 5,000 mile max OCI, you probably won't have any sludge issues anyway.
FWIW, I wasn't directing this post at you, more to support what you were saying.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Anybody got any more info on this, though?
Thx.
And let's look at the numbers:
Let's assume 15,000 miles a year driving, $0.25 a gallon difference in price between 87 and premium (the current difference in my market), and 22 miles per gallon (EPA city rating) for the year. For ease of discussion, we'll assume the same MPG using either grade....
So, you would use 681 gallons of fuel in a year. That's $170.25 difference between regular and premium a year, $14.19 a month, or $0.47 a day. Personally, I don't think that is price difference is that big a deal when you consider the price of the car.
Also, if you fact in the efficiency difference that might exist, it could easily be a moot point. YMMV, in the truest sense of the phrase.
-thanks