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Comments
There are reasons why there are various grades of gas and at various prices. You get what you pay for.
QuikTrip was the first certified TopTier brand and sums it up nicely:
http://www.quiktrip.com/gasoline/myth.asp
"The word premium doesn't have anything to do with the quality of gasoline. It has more to do with the price.
Premium gasoline costs more for two reasons. It costs more to make. And, there's more profit added to premium by refiners and retailers. But, premium gasoline doesn't cost more because it is better.
Premium gasoline has a higher octane rating. Higher octane is only one thing: an index which indicates the gasoline's ability to overcome knocking or pinging in engines. That's all. If your car doesn't knock or ping on lower octane gasoline, paying for higher octane is a waste of your money."
There are brands, most notably BP that put high detergency only in premium grades. That's why they can't meet Top Tier certification.
Top Tier gasoline brands (note no BP, no Exxon/Mobil):
http://www.toptiergas.com/index.html
QuikTrip
Chevron
Conoco
Phillips
76
Shell
Entec Stations
MFA Oil Company
Kwik Trip/Kwik Star
The Somerset Refinery, Inc.
Chevron-Canada
Aloha Petroleum
Tri-Par Oil Company
Shell-Canada
Texaco
Petro-Canada
Sunoco-Canada
If your car runs better on premium and you're running a top tier gas there's something wrong with your timing, or (unlikely) you have deposit build up that's effectively increasing your compression ratio.
What year is your Maxx, what engine, what are the details of your driving -- e.g. 90% highway at 55mph average speed, most of our miles are driven at altitudes above 10,000 feet sea level, A/C never on, etc. I find it very hard to believe you are getting 36 mpg average. Is that based on your own math, or the Maxx's trip computer which seems to indicate 2-3 mpg too high/optimistic as I've heard from most Maxx owners, including me.
When not driving with the winter fuel blend, we can get a legit 30 mpg highway with speeds somewhere between 70 and 75 mph. If it was 100% highway driving at 70 mph, we might hit 32 mpg. To get 36 mpg in our Maxx, I think we'd need to set the cruise at 50 or 60 mph and even then I'm not sure if we could get 36.
In the past couple months, our Maxx is averaging around 28 mpg with a mix of 70% or so highway driving (70-75mph) and lots of country road cruising plus a little bit of city driving.
I agree the best I get is 30 MPG...and that is highway, 75MPH, no A/C...Im sure it would increase at 55-60 MPH..but that isnt my driving habit...always use shell/BP/exxon 87 octane regular...I have an 04 Maxx LT..with 98K on it
Thanks!
04 Maxx Lt here is almost 98k on it...have the minor clunk..I live with it...and had no problems with the steering column.....also some complaints of rotor warping causing the brakes to pulse...
You might, instead, find one that previously had, or still has, some problems in these key areas.
Which boat are you most likely to find yourself in if buying a 2004? I really don't know what the percentages are. We have been very happy with our 2004 Maxx LT.
I think that Maxxs are a good buy even if resale value later is not great (no American cars have great resale values), but I personally avoided the 1st and 2nd model years due to problems that had to be fixed, e.g., front end rattling, etc. I believe 2004 and 2005 are the first two model years. I also went with GM-certified cars and a competitive Chevy dealer (no-nonsense, no price bickering) for an added sense of security.
This was my first used car purchase, and I learned that the "due bill" and inspection before taking delivery are very important even if the car is otherwise pristine. After taking delivery we noticed that an accessory drawer was missing ($50) and the rear power outlet doesn't work (who knows how much that will cost).
I apologize if I'm rambling, but I hope my sharing of my experience helps some.
Bought my '06 LT last August and have 28K+ trouble-free miles on it thus far (two trips from NJ to CO add about 10K to the normal total). 30+ on the highway at 70-75mph. Does everything I want compared to the competition. Now if it will only keep doing so for another 200K+ miles.
We love our Maxx! Great fuel economy and is like a sporty race car at times!! I agree, I pray we are part of the 200K+ mile club. Hey, we bought it new, so no one is to blame but us!!
We keep it running on Royal Purple oil too...it loves it!
Problems you may run into include:
rattles (dome light, head rests, various interior trim)
steering column failure
steering rack failure (suspension clunks, binding, etc.)
turn signal failure (bad contacts, especially in front)
hard starting when warm (hot soak problem)
loud squeaks from rear hatch (steel fasteners rubbing on aluminum hatch)
rear shades unlatching (insufficient reinforcement of surround).
brakes pulsing (warped rotors, usually due to overtightened wheel nuts)
head rest discomfort (a running change was made)
rear seat handle breakage
front seat lumbar support breakage.
Still, Consumers Union gave the Maxx higher reliability ratings than the Malibu sedan.
There are fixes for these, though getting some done under warranty can be a challenge.
Search of this Maxx topic indicates DAB = Digital Audio Band and e2helper has said that "Check DAB" means the main radio unit thinks it has lost communication with the XM module -- or something like that.
We've got a $0 deductible Major Guard warranty still in effect on our Maxx...is a "Check DAB" anything we should bother with having the dealer look at our car?
2004 Maxx LT. We have 2 fobs but only one of them will control the car. The other one doesn't do anything. Assuming it isn't a dead battery in the 2nd fob...is this a programming issue that the dealer can fix, or are we stuck having only 1 fob work at any 1 time -- i.e., the car's electronics can handle/store only 1 fob's info.
Did you use a tiny soldering iron? Unfortunately I don't have a small enough soldering iron for that job. I may just get one as I'm already having dealer issues over a transmission.
The combined trip odometer + fuel range was well over 500 miles for a while on this tank! I knew I'd never get 500 miles out the tank, but it was fun to see.
Unfortunately, with no Maxx/hatchback available, I'll hang in there with my '04 Maxx.
Well, here's some info, its a 2006 LTZ Maxx with V6 and we average the low 30's to 36 when we are on the highway.
Around town its about 28 or better. We use royal purple oil, we buy premium fuel and have a KN filter which all helps in the configuration.
30 mpg with speeds of 70 is pretty awesome!
Yeah sometimes that trip computer does seem a bit overzealous...I just figure out the raw math of how many gallons we had to refill and how many miles that took.
Lock your keys in your car? Use your cell phone to call your wife or someone with access to the other key. Have them push the unlock button into their phone and your car will unlock. Seems to work with your cell phone at a normal fob distance from the car as well.
It's been years since I've locked my car with the key in the ignition and the last time I almost did (01 Elantra) you couldn't get the thing to lock anyway, but you could always lock the door and have the key slip out and fall on the floor, so this might come in handy.
I tried this on five occasions with three different cars. In every case using a cell phone resulted in opening the door when it wouldn't work with the fob alone. However I tried it again more than a mile away and nothing.
The signal from the cell phone must goose up the signal from the fob a bit, but it doesn't seem to go through the phone system.
The short range (successful) tries were with a Sebring, Optima and Malibu Maxx. At least with the Optima, it didn't work at a mile.
Any comment on this subject will be greatly appreciated. Eroni.
a bit worrysome... Hopefully no other part of the black paint decides to leave the Maxx's body.
Of course now with many miles out of warranty and my Maxx starts to act up. "When turning the key to start" if I dont hold it a few seconds it tries to start....sputters...jogs... then quits. Don't get me wrong - I can force it to start just fine if I turn the key , hold it and count to two (usually fine then)
Any experience of a fix out there? TSB'? ANYONE with this? and does it get worse? Mine seems to be getting worse. D~
And here it is, I believe: #05-06-04-076B
THX A~
I just turned 30k miles on my 2005 Maxx. I took my car into the shop for warranty service, and one of the items I complained about was a groaning noise from the rear.
Turns out the rear brake pads were down to 0 - metal rubbing on metal.
The Chevy dealer performed the service - replace rear pads - for $230 ($111 for the pads, $85 for labor, tax, shop fees).
Does this sound about right? Just curious what others paid.
They also said I need to have the rotors rotated, but I am not going to do this as this is a lease with only 5 months to go.
Thanks - Damon
I also had the rear sunshades replaced, the taillight bulb replaced a couple times, the trim around the radio/HVAC replaced, and the steering column replaced. All under warranty.
Damon
Was this done at your Chevy dealer, or somewhere else?
Damon
Yes, I did get them repaired under warranty. It has worked fine since. I also just today had the trim piece around the HVAC and radio replaced. It was slowly peeling away. The dealer had it done in about 1 hour.
Damon