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(On 2.2L, the plug's head is 15 mm if I remember my wrench choice correctly. It is probably the same on 3.5L -- if it is there at all, which now sounds it is.)
It's definitely there on the rear part of the oil pan (on the lower side facing toward the back of the car). You may be right about the size of the wrench, but pardon me if I don't verify it as it's 15 deg F out (windchill -1F) and I got my oil change in before the cold came!!
The oil filter is in the font of the engine down low (It's blue in this pic)
definitely there on the rear part of the oil pan (on the lower side facing toward the back of the car).
So, just as on the 2.2L engine...
You may be right about the size of the wrench, but pardon me if I don't verify it as it's 15 deg F out (windchill -1F) and I got my oil change in before the cold came!!
Hey, I just wanted to push back a bit, after you said that I had probably never done oil changes -- it's one of my favorite hobbies, in fact :-)
Just to confirm the sequence for Maxx:
1. Unscrew the "15-mm plug" at the rear of the engine's oil pan. Let the oil drain into a drop pan.
2. Pull the drop pan out -- this will let me access and remove the filter.
3. Unscrew the filter with a "filter tool", a.k.a. "band wrench".
4. Screw the new filter on (.75 to 1 turn with the tool after hand-tightening).
5. Screw in the plug.
6. Pour in 4 qts of synthetic (sic!) oil.
Sounds right?
If the list above is right, I finally understand how things are arranged in Maxx (I had thought there was no plug and I had to unscrew the filter over the drop pan, which I had hard time imagining how to do in the space so tight.)
Thank you very much for your answers -- much appreciated!
Yes you got it basically right. I usually remove the plug, drain the oil into the catch pan, remove the pan from under and place the oil into a container, reach back under and tighten the oil drain plug and then loosen the filter, then place the pan under the filter before removing it the rest of the way to catch any spills as you lower it carefully into the catch pan and invert it there to drain. Note that the band wrench may only grab the filter a little as the space is tight, but you can position it right and get the movement enough to loosen it. After the new filter is back on I fill with oil (usually I find it's more like 4.5 to almost 5 quarts with the filter change.) Then reset the message center so it reads 100% oil remaining.
Oops. Looks like my link to the engine image has screwed up the formatting of this web page royally.!!! :sick: I cannot edit it to remove it, so maybe the host can edit it to remove it)
My 05 at 88K is doing well, brakes of course.... Hey does anyone have the problem with the parking brake only engaging at 1 wheel. Mine only locks the rear drivers. Has anyone else had to take theirs in and change it. I can do about it all, I just need to know where to start. Yes the Versa is a gas hog compared to our Max's and I see the hodna has a CrosTour car "nice looking" hatchback , but I'll bet you couldn't fit in the back a twin size mattress and Box spring like I did on my 05 Maxx.(I took a photo, I should post.. LOL to the others... D~
Did any of you guys have problems with the remote start during this problem with the trans? I noticed just before winter that the remote start did not work on my 05 Maxx LT. About a month ago I noticed a "lurch" in the transmission after coasting, and then realized that the trigger for the lower gears did not work. I have looked into the replacement part and the dealer wants @170. Where did you guys buy yours if not through warranty?
I am experiencing the same problem with the weld. Any ideas as I am way out of my warranty. 2005 LT Maxx 92k. The dealer wants $50 just to look at it. I figure it would be a safety issue and sent an email to NHTSA but don't expect anything.
you realize you are replying to a 4 year old message, why not take it to another dealer and see what they might say.....also, if you not what the problem is....any good fabrication shop should be able to make the repair if its simply a broken weld...
I realize it is a 4 year old post. My reason for posting was twofold, see if the poster had anthing to add, and also maybe someone new could relate and had something to add. There are a number of references to this problem on the web, but unfortunately there are only 3 (including mine) complaints to NHTSA.
I just had to change my wife's oil again in her 3.5L V6 Maxx. I was correct: the oil plug is 13MM, not 15MM as previously speculated. I used 4.5 qts with the filter change to get the dipstick to the full line. One thing I've never commented before is how lousy the door hinge is. Virtually no "knee" action to resist it closing on your leg in a stiff breeze or on an incline. Anyone else concur, or is it just her door?
Since you are replying to the thread I initiated: thanks! And 13mm it be -- my mistake about 15 :-)
The doors: I agree. In my three Malibus one has to be careful not to be slammed by a door closing when the car faces upward on a hill, non-steep hill. Ditto about the wind. Doesn't bother me, just confirming your observations.
Want to install kayak roof rack. Could've sworn I've seen Maxx's fitted with roof rails, that look to be OEM. Would prefer to obtain said rails and then fit with aftermarket cross bars. Have checked with local dealer and come up empty. Any body out there have these roof rails installed? Where can I get them?
Yeah, when I asked my wife about it she says it doesn't bother her. Since she's the one that drives it I guess it's fine with me so long as she is aware beforehand and never gets a surprise. I've mostly experienced the opposite in other cars (older Chevys too) where the door is so stiff when you go to close it that it makes a loud snap (curable by geasing the parts involved).It just seemed a bit of a bizarre design to me. Thanks for the feedback. :shades:
I have an '04 Malibu Maxx with 93,000 miles, that has developed yet another problem. I am now getting the wrench symbol showing on the lower left corner of the dashboard gauge module, along with an intermittent DIC "Power Steering" warning. The odd thing is that the steering itself is functioning, with no loss of power assist. I have become used to glitches in the electronics, but I do wonder if this is something someone has experienced before. I know of the power assist failures associated with this warning, and am hoping I'm not heading for another expensive fix. Any feedback appreciated.
I have a 2005 Maxx LT with the 3.5 V6. 71,000 miles (123,000km). My problem started today. I got up to go to work, went out to start the car, and the battery was completely dead. I ended up walking to work (ironically at a Honda dealership) and borrowing the shop truck to drive home and boost it. The car started fine afterwrds. Drove it to work, it sat for four hours, and started normally. I then drove it 250km with several stops along the way, and it worked great. I went out this evening (car sat approx. 3-4 hours), when I went to leave, it BARELY turned over, and the security light stayed on for the ten minute drive I made. When I stopped, I shut the car off and started it, it ran fine and the light went out. I came out twenty minutes later and it was dead as a doornail. Figures, too, that this would happen 200 KILOMETRES after GMPP expired. I know the battery was changed by the GM dealership I got it ffrom, back in late 2008. Anyone know what's going on? I may end up trading in for a Honda!
Pao is correect, Check the Simple stuff first. I once had a Grand-Am that just needed the Posts cleaned, it wouldn't turn over until I "jiggled" the wires/ terminal posts. Those Battery cables are heavy duty/large Diameter since they need to push a lot of amps to the Starter (you may have the volts but not the Amps to turn over the Starter) I'd rather have 1 Maxx in my driveway than a dozen toyota's or honda's
and go with the highest cold amp rated battery you can.....most of us have found if you go one step above the OEM battery, it has solved a few problems.....
I completely agree with the door hinge issue!!!! But actually it only seems to be the front driver's side door. None of my passenger doors have a problem staying open. This really grinds my gears.
I had soooo many problems with my car not starting. I have the exact same car as you, 78,ooo miles though. Ever since I bought it I've had problems getting it to start. So much that I had to keep jumper cables in my car at all times. Ultimately I got a new battery and haven't had any problems since, although sometimes it sounds a little weak when it turns over.
OMG , Same as "kiltman" I now have the same problem with shifting to low, the +/-trigger for the lower gears does not work, Any Solutions out there @170. that may not be to bad , what was the Part # to fix the problem? Just started this week. 05 Maxx with 85K miles, Thanx- Drej.
I can not open the hatchback on my 05 Maxx. All I hear is clicking when I attempt to open it. Does anyone know how to open it manually or trouble shoot this problem? I wish there was a key to open it but there is not. Any help will be very appreciative.
Anyone out there correct this problem on thier own (with the problem when shifting to low, the +/-trigger for the lower gears does't work! It stays in L3 only) I also notice the Maxx doesn't shift to L3 when dropping the lever from D to L3 while coasting in D or overdrive. I'll check the fuses first...is there some sort of module? (I don't have acess to tech bulitins? is there one for this gear selector issue?) thx- Drej
I assume you tried pushing the little black button under and to the right of the Chev symbol on the hatch lid after unlocking all doors. It is too bad that there is not a mechanical back up.
Bought my 06 Maxx about a month ago and loving it! Had an 03 Malibu, and this generation blows that one away. Found a nice Sport Red LT with 34,000 miles, so far everything is good, hope to get a lot of years out of it! ">
2004 Maxx LT. 161k miles. Happy owner here. Had windshield replaced for the first time yesterday, and a very noticeable rattle/buzz is occurring from dash and/or windshield. This noise was NOT there before and it is really bothering me. Usually, these sorts of squeaks and rattles don't bother me, but this one is constant and loud and I can hear it even when the radio is on a decent volume level.
Any suggestions for what/where/how to check into the problem?
perhaps the windshield isnt properly seated correctly.....04 LT here as well with 164K on it...had the windshield replaced three years ago..without problem...I would take it back to the establishment that did the windshield replacement and have them check it...
Some of this generation malibu's had a problem with the plastic cowl at the bottom of the windshield. When driving at high speed the air stream would cause the cowl to flutter and vibrate. They had to remove this piece to replace your windshield. I had mine (cowl) replaced and that did not fix the problem. The final fix was to remove it and install double sided sticky tape along the underside edge of the cowl. Then replace it and press the tape against the windshield. This was in a TSB. Not sure if they started coming from factory that way.
Last fall, I made an observation here that my new Maxx rode noticeably stiffer than the Base Sedans. That impression has only got increased since then -- yeah, the Sedans (2005) feel pleasanter to ride in, practically on any road. Part of the difference perception was a "perception" -- I was getting a bit worried if the suspension in my Maxx was in a good order.
Finally, I went to Sears today and the folks there thoroughly (very thoroughly, I saw it all) inspected Maxx's suspension. "In a perfect shape", they said. A guy there used to work at a Chevy dealership (where I actually had met him before) -- he told me that Maxxes ride very differently than the sedans. "They have a sportier suspension and are very stiff; I took plenty of them on a highway, and they were just flying along, little beasts -- you'd never guess that by the looks -- and not leaning much on the turns -- that kind of a suspension..."
One of the guys who was inspecting the suspension said that he had actually felt the stiffness even while driving the car over the shop. FWIW.
Anyway, I am glad that I did not fantasize about the difference in riding the two kinds of Malibus, and, mostly, that my Maxx's suspension is in a good shape.
Now that I know that, I will begin liking it more. A little animal, quite true
One thing I've noticed about my wife's Maxx is the rattles coming from the rear suspension over bumps. (since new). We've never really pursued it as the car otherwise runs fine and is quiet over smooth roads. I assumed (maybe incorrectly) that that's just the way it is. (not the most isolated suspension when it comes to noise) When I did rear brakes I couldn't find any looseness, I'm just thinking the design leads to telegraphing roughness. It doesn't bother her at all (I tend to notice noises like this) Anyone else care to comment? (and yes we once had the front steering thump solved by the TSB kit for the steering shaft and that's now quiet).
I bought my 2006 Maxx used in 2008. The only rattle I had in the rear was the shelf behind the rear seats over the trunk. It was missing some of the black caps. I bought new caps but it still rattles a little when I go over bumps. The only other thing I can suggest is to make sure your spare tire and jack are screwed in tight. Good luck.
Our Maxx is also a 2006. I know we've driven it with the rear shelf out and I believe we still had the noise. I'll have to try removing the spare and shelf at once (along with any other thing that may be loose and take a spin. Somehow I think the noise will still be there, but it's definitely worth a try. Maybe I'll also have my wife drive around the block with me lying down in the back and see if I can isolate it. (once again I won't make a crusade out of it because she doesn't really notice it and I'm rarely in her car.) I gotta say she did really notice the "whup whup" tire noise when I pointed it out to her on the rear Bridgestone Insignia SE200 OEM tires though. (she cut a sidewall on the front and we only replaced the fronts at the time with GY Assurance Tripletreads, the rears having tons of tread left we left alone for a later replacement. With the rears now replaced to after-market matching Tripletreads the car is SO much more quiet (almost any brand OEM tires seem to do this to me..don't last long before that noise sets in and that "in and out of phase nodal thumping" noise drives me crazy and new tires will fix it almost forever when they are quality tires). We previously had the same experience with Goodyear Wrangler OEM tires that really "whupped" on both a Durango and Dakota until replaced with Michelins that remained quiet until eventually wearing out. I'll say it again: OEM tires are usually crap and cheap.What a pleasurable experience it becomes when that noise goes away!!!
Thanks for the advice -- it's not applicable to my car, though: I uncarefully agreed with the post using the word "rattle", but there is no rattle of the kind you seem to mean. My "rattling" would be better called "the rear wheels thumping". They are not actually thumping enormously -- just more than I hear in the Bases. More sound is not surprising by itself: the salon being essentially open from the driver's place to the rear hatch, there is less standing in the sound-from-the-wheels' way here than in the Bases, where the wheels are under the trunk. I still think that a difference in the suspensions plays a role in the "more thumping heard".
As for the rattles: all my three Malibus are surprisingly (knock-knock) rattle-free -- the Maxx is no exception: no rattles at all. (For completeness: one of the Sedans' suspension rattles in cold times of the year, under about 40F.) The spares and jacks are all attached correctly in my cars, of course; the tire pressure is right and the tires are good (new reares in the Maxx).
thanks for the feedback. I hadn't even looked at the windshield . When the glass shop guy showed up today, it was obvious that the passenger side of the plastic cowl had a large gap between it and the glass. The guy applied some double-sided tape and the noise was totally absent on my drive home.
2006 Maxx @ 59K miles, of which 2600 miles are "mine:
Last Saturday, I was backing out of a parking spot when the engine stalled. Turned it on, made a mental mark -- the first time the engne stalled for me. Drove home all right.
Sunday, pretty much the same thing. Drove home all right. Near the home, drove the car backward a couple of times -- no stalling. Started to back it up the driveway -- stalled. Repeated -- stalled. Idled -- stalled. Looked under the hood -- could see nothing unusual but the engine noticeably shaked in some of my experiments. Looked at the air filter -- clean, but I replaced it anyway. Turned the engine on, idled -- stalled. A code reader shows no errors.
Going to a dealer this Friday. Any feedback and/or tips would be appreciated.
Some extra information:
a. I've always felt that Maxx's engine was sluggish compared with the 4-cyls in Bases. Maxx is a powerful car, but I need to press the gas pedal more than I do it in Bases.
b. It was the first time that I used a certain cheap gasoline purchased around here. Maxx has eaten about 1/3 of the tank by now. The two base Bu's run on the gas from the same gas station without a problem.
I was wondering if anyone has had this problem? ’05 Maxx LT, 101k miles. When accelerating from a speed of around 55 (assume I am passing another car) I get a “ding ding” and the steering wheel freezes up. It quickly releases but scares the crap out of me. This has happened a number of times, all when accelerating, not necessarily from 55mph but anytime I am giving it some juice. One time that I noticed, the info display changed to say “power steering”. No kidding huh! There is no check engine light although twice I have seen the battery symbol glow for a split second, but at times totally unrelated to the steering issue. I may have two different things going on, and they both may be nothing but I figure to see what everybody else says. Battery was new last year.
As you may or may not know the power assist is electric, not hydraulic. Someone else once on here experienced this (losing steering while accelerating) and I suggested the wiring may be making poor contact somewhere and when the engine rocks under acceleration it makes the contact worse. Check all the wiring around the steering assist motor for loose connections and of course the battery terminals for a good corrosion free connection. Best I can suggest without a manual.
I have also experienced the same thing. I just try not to hammer it, but to ease into it when passing or accelerating onto the interstate. Mine has 61000 now. No dash indications or messages on the DIC though. Dealer didn't have a clue why ding ding ding was happening.
it has to do with voltage regulating and all that good stuff coming from the alternator. i had this problem since last august when i bought the car from a dealer here and they had no idea how to fix it. ive been in many of time complaining about it. finally there is a fix. they have to replace the ignition module and put a ground on the module. it was replaced on my '06 MAXX and no problems since with the steering...
I have a 2005 Malibu Maxx LT that I've owned since new. Last year, the remote start quit working. The lights still flash when activated but nothing else. I jumpered the wires to the hood latch switch, but it didn't help. I have a computer code reader that indicates NO FAULT CODES. I selected ERASE and the remote start will work only once. The erase would be needed each time to work. Has anybody else had that problem? If so, what was the fix? Thank you for your reply.
Last year I had the same problem. Tried jumping the wires but that didn't fix it. In the end I disconnected the wiring adapter that is behind the grill and it now works. Couldn't say that that is the reason but it does. Almost seemed like it waited till it was cold to work. Weird.
Hello Kiltman, Thank you for your response to my remote start problem. I unplugged the harness with the 3 wires that goes to the hood latch switch. That is where no matter what I did, the remote start wouldn't work. A service manager at a Chevy dealership said that code faults also prevent the remote start from working. Nowadays, with the economy so bad, I'm afraid to bring a car in for repair. They surely know how to pad a bill for things that are not needed. (I have a 2007 Pontiac G6 hardtop convertible with 12,000 miles that I took to a local Pontiac dealer for a broken dashboard vent (under warranty). They told me my airfilter was dirty, my induction area was dirty, and my tires were wearing badly. ALL LIES !!! ....... and who told them to look under the hood when they were only supposed to change a part on the dashboard.)
I keep hearing about an O2 sensor called "planar." Does a 2004 Maxx 3.5 engine have a factory "planar" O2 sensor? It reportedly cuts down on emissions and adds power.
Can anyone tell me how to get the passengers side front windshield sunvisor extension to retract back into the visor? Wife pulled it out, and have tried everything to get it to go back inside the visor, so we can snap the end of the visor back into the center piece above the windshield. I'm tempted to just snap the damned thing off, but figured I would ask here first.
Comments
It's definitely there on the rear part of the oil pan (on the lower side facing toward the back of the car). You may be right about the size of the wrench, but pardon me if I don't verify it as it's 15 deg F out (windchill -1F) and I got my oil change in before the cold came!!
The oil filter is in the font of the engine down low (It's blue in this pic)
side facing toward the back of the car).
So, just as on the 2.2L engine...
You may be right about the size of the wrench, but pardon me if I
don't verify it as it's 15 deg F out (windchill -1F) and I got my oil
change in before the cold came!!
Hey, I just wanted to push back a bit, after you said that I had
probably never done oil changes -- it's one of my favorite hobbies, in
fact :-)
Just to confirm the sequence for Maxx:
1. Unscrew the "15-mm plug" at the rear of the engine's oil
pan. Let the oil drain into a drop pan.
2. Pull the drop pan out -- this will let me access and remove the
filter.
3. Unscrew the filter with a "filter tool", a.k.a. "band wrench".
4. Screw the new filter on (.75 to 1 turn with the tool after
hand-tightening).
5. Screw in the plug.
6. Pour in 4 qts of synthetic (sic!) oil.
Sounds right?
If the list above is right, I finally understand how things are
arranged in Maxx (I had thought there was no plug and I had to unscrew
the filter over the drop pan, which I had hard time imagining how to
do in the space so tight.)
Thank you very much for your answers -- much appreciated!
catch pan, remove the pan from under and place the oil into a container, reach
back under and tighten the oil drain plug and then loosen the filter, then place
the pan under the filter before removing it the rest of the way to catch any spills
as you lower it carefully into the catch pan and invert it there to drain. Note that
the band wrench may only grab the filter a little as the space is tight, but you can
position it right and get the movement enough to loosen it. After the new filter is
back on I fill with oil (usually I find it's more like 4.5 to almost 5 quarts with the
filter change.) Then reset the message center so it reads 100% oil remaining.
The dealer wants $50 just to look at it. I figure it would be a safety issue and sent an email to NHTSA but don't expect anything.
There are a number of references to this problem on the web, but unfortunately there are only 3 (including mine) complaints to NHTSA.
The doors: I agree. In my three Malibus one has to be careful not to be slammed by a door closing when the car faces upward on a hill, non-steep hill. Ditto about
the wind. Doesn't bother me, just confirming your observations.
Could've sworn I've seen Maxx's fitted with roof rails, that look to be OEM.
Would prefer to obtain said rails and then fit with aftermarket cross bars.
Have checked with local dealer and come up empty.
Any body out there have these roof rails installed?
Where can I get them?
battery right away".
See my story here: http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/direct/view/.f0f7d97/43#MSG43
My battery was new in August 2009 and dead in December 2009, after some 2000 miles.
Your cost to replace the battery is around $100, your cost to replace the car (the great Maxx!...) is much higher. Spend those $100.
Any suggestions for what/where/how to check into the problem?
So far, seems to be occurring above 60 mph.
stiffer than the Base Sedans. That impression has only got increased
since then -- yeah, the Sedans (2005) feel pleasanter to ride in,
practically on any road. Part of the difference perception was a
"perception" -- I was getting a bit worried if the suspension in my
Maxx was in a good order.
Finally, I went to Sears today and the folks there thoroughly (very
thoroughly, I saw it all) inspected Maxx's suspension. "In a perfect
shape", they said. A guy there used to work at a Chevy dealership
(where I actually had met him before) -- he told me that Maxxes ride
very differently than the sedans. "They have a sportier suspension
and are very stiff; I took plenty of them on a highway, and they were
just flying along, little beasts -- you'd never guess that by the
looks -- and not leaning much on the turns -- that kind of a
suspension..."
One of the guys who was inspecting the suspension said that he had
actually felt the stiffness even while driving the car over the shop.
FWIW.
Anyway, I am glad that I did not fantasize about the difference in
riding the two kinds of Malibus, and, mostly, that my Maxx's
suspension is in a good shape.
Now that I know that, I will begin liking it more. A little animal,
quite true
That's one of the symptoms in my Maxx. The other is feeling the road
with my own back.
It doesn't bother her at all (I tend to notice noises like this)
My family (including me) notices it unmistakably when driving Maxx instead of Base.
agreed with the post using the word "rattle", but there is no rattle of the kind
you seem to mean. My "rattling" would be better called "the rear wheels
thumping". They are not actually thumping enormously -- just more than I hear
in the Bases. More sound is not surprising by itself: the salon being
essentially open from the driver's place to the rear hatch, there is less
standing in the sound-from-the-wheels' way here than in the Bases, where the
wheels are under the trunk. I still think that a difference in the suspensions
plays a role in the "more thumping heard".
As for the rattles: all my three Malibus are surprisingly (knock-knock)
rattle-free -- the Maxx is no exception: no rattles at all. (For completeness:
one of the Sedans' suspension rattles in cold times of the year, under about
40F.) The spares and jacks are all attached correctly in my cars, of course;
the tire pressure is right and the tires are good (new reares in the Maxx).
Last Saturday, I was backing out of a parking spot when the engine stalled. Turned it on,
made a mental mark -- the first time the engne stalled for me. Drove home all right.
Sunday, pretty much the same thing. Drove home all right. Near the home, drove the car
backward a couple of times -- no stalling. Started to back it up the driveway -- stalled.
Repeated -- stalled. Idled -- stalled. Looked under the hood -- could see nothing
unusual but the engine noticeably shaked in some of my experiments. Looked at the air
filter -- clean, but I replaced it anyway. Turned the engine on, idled -- stalled. A
code reader shows no errors.
Going to a dealer this Friday. Any feedback and/or tips would be appreciated.
Some extra information:
a. I've always felt that Maxx's engine was sluggish compared with the 4-cyls in Bases.
Maxx is a powerful car, but I need to press the gas pedal more than I do it in Bases.
b. It was the first time that I used a certain cheap gasoline purchased around here.
Maxx has eaten about 1/3 of the tank by now. The two base Bu's run on the gas from
the same gas station without a problem.
Hope this helps anybody else.
My question is, does the ignition module have to be replaced...or just a ground strap added?
Has anybody else had that problem? If so, what was the fix? Thank you for your reply.
Thank you for your response to my remote start problem. I unplugged the harness with the 3 wires that goes to the hood latch switch. That is where no matter what I did, the remote start wouldn't work. A service manager at a Chevy dealership said that code faults also prevent the remote start from working.
Nowadays, with the economy so bad, I'm afraid to bring a car in for repair. They surely know how to pad a bill for things that are not needed. (I have a 2007 Pontiac G6 hardtop convertible with 12,000 miles that I took to a local Pontiac dealer for a broken dashboard vent (under warranty). They told me my airfilter was dirty, my induction area was dirty, and my tires were wearing badly. ALL LIES !!! ....... and who told them to look under the hood when they were only supposed to change a part on the dashboard.)
Thanks!