Chevy Malibu Maxx

comem47

My wife's whole visor end piece keeps separating from the visor itself, so maybe you can squeeze and pop the whole end off and then get access to the extension once separated. In our case we keep pushing the end back on and it says for a while (maybe glue will be our solution).

hhmax

2005 maxx LT lost power steering in when pulling out of drive way. I had the information letter saying that the steering column had a service adjustment of 10years 160,000 kms (in canada). My question is: Is this a one time replacement or it is a extended warranty of 10years 160,000kms for the steering column?

gagabubu

Dont know about canadian owners. We have a letter saying 100,000 miles or 10 years which ever occurs first for the steering wheel failure. And it may be valid if it occurs again prior to August 31st 2011.

kiltman

This is a one time thing. Keep in mind, this is to a point of 10 years or 160,kms from purchase, not additional. I got the same thing, and also got one back in 2007 which was 7 yrs, 70 miles (In the states). Take it in and get it fixed. I understand that it is fixed, they removed the steering column and transfer a module into a new column and put that new column into the car.
I am always just outside of the "new" warranty area so I cannot get it fixed, at least until it becomes a full-fledged recall...crossing my fingers.

comem47

see: http://www.gminsidenews.com/forums/f13/07126-special-coverage-adjustment-loss-po- - wer-steering-assist-models-2005-chevr-58130/ Also I've heard of the steering cutting out (forget which years) due to electrical interference from the ignition system, but I think this is above certain RPMs at speed and I think they make some shielding changes. I would call the local Chevy dealer to confirm.

hhmax

I already had it replaced. However, the dealer "lost" the information letter the GM sent me. So I am wondering if this is a one time thing or it's extended warranty. How reliable is the replacement part? Did GM get it right?

bluedevils

Thought I'd say my 2004 Maxx is going strong with 180k+ miles. It is starting to look a little rough around the edges, but that is to be expected of a vehicle with almost 200,000 miles on it. Still happy with my Maxx...

drej

My 05 just turned 94K and plan for 200 myself but I don't drive her much in winter (have a GMC for the Rough days)
Did you ever change struts? What milage do most change them at. I'm getting a clunk here and there. D~

comem47

Clunking can be many things. We've had the infamous steering joint changed on my wife's 2006 (covered within the warranty)and now we got the right side ball joint needing replacement (most common on that side and unfortunately the whole lower control arm with joint installed is the replaceable part). My stepdaughter had both the steering joint lubed and right (passenger)side lower control arm replaced recently on her used Pontiac G6). I may replace the control arm myself as I'm comfortable with these repairs and have the tools and Autozone has the specific instructions online with details (like about temporarily disconnecting the engine mount on that side) The part is a fraction of the GM cost when comparatively shopping online vs hundreds plus labor going to Chevy). One will see the drivers side is more commonly available and cheaper (a big demand on passenger side part maybe?).

pao

about to roll over 179K on my 04 Maxx LT...still going strong....did have a leaking transmission pan gasket....so finally replaced it, the filter, and new synthetic trans fluid..Dexron VI replaces the Dexron III than came in the 04.

a few blemishes on the paint, and a few minor issues in the interior..but all expected at 7 years old and almost 200K....it should see it easily....as Im putting about 15K a year on it now...still getting 223-25 City and 28-31 Hwy depending on conditions...couldnt be happier with it

medinamalibu

If you have not already done the procedure, may I mention a few details that I learned when I replaced my Maxx's lower control arms two months ago? Like yours, the right ball-joint was worn; dangerously worn, in my case. Both arms cost the same, and I bought both (hello, Auto Zone!)

I could not remove the front pivot bolt on the passenger-side LCA without removing the right-side engine mount -- which required putting a support jack under the engine, and maneuvering a 15mm ratcheting wrench onto the two bolts between the exhaust pipe and the engine. PROBLEM: The front mounting bolt was longer than the gap between the engine mount and the exhaust pipe, so I had to shorten the bolt with a hacksaw and a chisel. But that's just because I didn't have the skill or tools to cut the exhaust pipe and weld it back together.

It really wasn't very fun.

wombat758

Glad to hear my maxx still has plenty of miles to go yet. Just turned over to 142,000 and mine to is still running great. I still LOVE my car. I bought mine with 84 miles in July of 2004 have no major problems other than the clunking in the front end. Had it fixed at 50,000 miles and it came back and am just living with it as it causes no driving problems. Am planning on keeping it until it dies on me.

pao

my 04 LT Maxx purchased in Feb 04 just rolled over 182K.....my only major replacement items has been a right rear caliper assembly, and two front control arms.....other than those issues.....nothing but wear and tear items, tires (4th set), battery (2), wiper blades, on 3rd set of brakes...and fluids..which I exchange every 50K....at 190K I will replace plugs and surpentine belt again for its second 100k service., running mobil 1 synthetic since 30K and change every 6-7K........still getting arould 26 MPG in the city and 30-32 Hwy.

comem47

Just be sure the clunking you intend to live with is the steering coupling clunk and not the control arm clunk(worn ball joint).

wombat758

Thanks for the tip comem47. I will check into that..

Kirstie_H

A reporter is looking to interview anyone with a GM vehicle that doesn't seem to accurately read fuel levels.
Please email pr@edmunds.com Friday, April 29, 2011 to share your story.
Thanks,
Jeannine

kkldmurphy

It's good to read that others are still enjoying their Maxx. We have 85,600 miles on our '04 Maxx LS. Yesterday when I tried starting the car to go to the tire store for our first set of replacements, wouldn't you know the battery died, too. That was an easy DIY. Except for the same issues it seems we've all had with the car (control arms, front-end clunking), it's been a great vehicle for us, with surprisingly good mileage especially on the highway -- right around 32 mpg. We're giving it up next week to our son who can use a roomier car for his growing family. I'm sure he'll find it a great family vehicle. (We bought a 2011 Nissan Versa hatchback. Very nice looking car with a lot of features, like the Maxx. We are hopeful it will serve us as well.)

kiltman

Drej,
Hopefully you have figured this out by know, I have not been to this forum for awhile and did not see you had the same problem. I was able to fix this myself as it was just a cut wire. Problem was the wire is in the center console so you have to pull the whole thing out. Once removed you will see 2 thin gauge wires with a black overwrap that comes from below and enters the shifter handle. I saw that one of these wires got pinched in the shift mechanism and disabled the shifting. Repair that wire and you are good to go.

drej

Great timing to tell me the fix on this Kiltman ! I just happen to have the whole center console out because I am Trying to fix my Drivers Parking brake cable (siezed up). I will look to fix this darn shifter wire now too if I can find it.
THANKS Again.
BTW- I see on these cars (my 05 Max with 99 K) the two rear Parking brake cable run from a center transition bar under/at the console. #1) if one wire is siezed up you will not have any way to apply braking to the other since this transition bar is so small and tight and both cable running from it. 2) you won't be able to get hardly any pull in any way if one cable freezes so you are SOL if you need the E-Brake . BTW , I figured the culprit was that the cable wore out in the past years where GM routed it accross the frame and it rubbed raw down to the metal sheath. My drivers side frooze first that is what I am working on. Napa didn't offer one. BTW- I put a loom / rubber hose around the passengers side where it touches the frame since I see it was starting to wear through. Everyone should look at thier Parking/ E-brake cables back by the rear tires to see if it is touching the bottom structure of the car and rubbing away.
D~

jenb7

actually for $10 there is a tool that looks cube you can by at auto parts stores like Advance Auto Parts - you attach it to a ratchet drive and it turns the caliber back in ....

drej

Hi Thanks [kiltman], I did see where the yellow wire (below console at shifter) was broke and repaired by splicing/soldered in a section a bit longer. I reassembled my 05 Malibu Max console & my L3, L2 L1 at shifter button works again, Thanks- Again D~

hault

I replaced the front headlamps on my 04 Maxx do to the faded chrome and fogging issues. Now my daytime run lamps don't work. And my front turn signals are out. I tried switching the 3157 bulbs from the old assemblies and actually put the old assemblies back in still don't work. Regular park lamps work when they are manually turned on by stalk, but drl never works and turn signals occasionally work, but if I manually turn off the drl at the stalk even though they don't work it takes out the front turn signals. I can't even find a fuse for the DRL or the relay location. HELP!

kiltman

My right turn signal/drl periodically goes out. There is an electrical fault in there somewhere. The socket seems to heat up and the plastic of the bulb base melts around the wires. I have to remove the bulb, scrape it clear, and carefully pry it out from the base of the bulb. This seems to work for another couple of months. Probably playing with fire here, but will do this till I can find a replacement wiring kit at a salvage yard.

malexbu

Without melting (and I am not sure you have melting either -- or else why would you have been able to repeat your procedure over and over?), this situation is well familiar to me: one of my Malibus has been particularly prone to it. Just a couple of months ago, I had three occurrences of the problem (after about a year of everything being all right), separated by two-three weeks. When it happened the last time, I realized that it didn't make sense to repeat it the same way I had always done it: the problem was clearly in the socket not holding the bulb tightly enough -- the car front end vibrations would ultimately make the bulb shake out of the socket contacts.

So, I cut a tiny piece of an electric isolation tape, rolled it into a small cylinder, the sticky side out, and carefully stuffed it between the installed bulb and socket. This seemed to have done the trick -- the bulb hasn't gone out since then.

pheisler

My '05 Maxx just turned past 60,000, and I had to have the transmission overhauled. I was told the '07's had the warranty extended, but of course that doesn't help me. Also had to have the second (driver's side) control arm replaced. I previously had to have the steering gear replaced because of the clunking( a common problem on this forum), and GM paid for the part, I paid for the labor since I was a month out of warranty. I HAVE BOUGHT MY LAST AMERICAN CAR!! I do it out of a sense of patriotism, but I can't afford the price. Something major always goes wrong with them, which is not the way it should be. I've had enough of expecting reliability and quality from American manufacturers.

pao

but on the other side of the fence...my 04 Maxx LT just rolled 184K this morning on the way to my commuter lot....no major repairs, original steering column...have had to replace two left side tire rods and left rear brake caliper. Otherwise just normal scheduled maintenance...been using full synthetic oil since 30K, change it every 5-6K, full scheduled maintenance at 100K and now change ALL fluids every 50K....four sets of tires, and on my third set of brakes..with new rotors. It has some minor interior issues, however for 7 and 1/2 years ownership....no complaints...mileage averages out to approx 2055 miles a month and 57 miles a day!

drej

I had my 05 since new, I just turned 100K and are doing the Tranny fluid change and stuff. Some small issues but Nothing Major yet w/my 05 Maxx, I really luv this hatchback and style & utility of it ! ! . By control arm do you mean the "A" arm?. I hear your frustratuion. Other: GM did my steering extended warraty too.
+ I recently replaced the back rt caliper since the Parking brake spring was the fault/froze up (but could be all the salt they use here in N E Ohio. Easy to change myself. Doing all shocks and struts myself too ! D~

cougar918

My 2004 malibu maxx's battery was dead and I replaced with a new one. The odometer reading was cleared to zero after the change. One dealer said it's the BCM (Body control module) need to be replaced. Another dealer said it's nothing related to BCM. Any one can help?
The odometer is still working, it's just started from zero again. so I dought it''s the BCM. the cruise control was good before I sent the car to the dealership for diagnose. After the diagnose, the cruise control is not functioning any more.

curs

I've gone through and read the majority of the threads and find that my "issue" (or set of issues) might appear to be related to the BCM. I will be cross posting this in the Electrical/Lighting, Climate Control/AC and Fuel System discussions since it touches a bit into each area.

I have a 2004 Maxx with just at 70K miles on it. Since I purchased it at 40K miles I've had the following issue:

Car will do the infamous "hard start" where it will sound like it is going to start but won't turn over fully until I give it a bit of gas. Seems to happen most often will gas is half a tank or lower and/or it's super hot outside.

However, I have a special bonus of when it does this my A/C will turn on and blow but the air it blows is not cooled. Problem in the summer. Also when it does this (in the winter) my rear window defrost/defog won't turn on.

Beyond that I am having cruise control issues that started at about 65K miles. When I first start the car if I engage the cruise control within about 5 miles or 5 minutes, it will engage just fine. However, once I have to disengage (step on the break, hit the off button) it will not allow me to resume OR reset the cruise control until I have put the car in park (for just a few seconds) or restarted it.

Beyond that one night a friend who was traveling behind me mentioned my CHMSL was flickering and now it is out entirely. I've read that can be BCM related.

I have an appointment next week to have diagnostics run on the car at $100/hour. Before I walk into that expense, can anyone give me any thoughts or even suggestions at how much replacing a BCM would cost. One place told me $80 for the part and then labor to program it (which has to be done at a dealer???) and another place told me I might need to replace the whole grid (?) at a cost of around $2K but even just the BCM being $800.

To replace the CHMSL is $110 but I don't want to do that if it's not the part but the BCM that is the issue.

drej

Ditto here with my 05 Maxx but I don't have the CHMSL, Ac or Heat problems. The Hard start is solved if you turn key to on pos before starting for a few seconds (for me is ok but most will find this annoying to do) the car has never failed to start though! Then the Cruise, (PITA) same problem I have, I just live with it as I use it infrequently. I pull over and put in park for a while if it acts up or as you said, shut off and turn on. D~

pao

The CHMSL is easy to replace...a nice little DIY project...you can order it from most GM online parts places for about $40.....you simply have to take off the upper trim on the hatch and a few screws holding in the light...its plug and play....I too have the start hesitation....I beleive its solved with a software update to the BCM...I either just give it a little gas or as above mentioned....mine also will blow hot at times on the A/C...in my case a simple turn off turn on the car as worked the few times it has happened to me......at almost 8 years old...and 185K...I cant complain about the little things at this point....

fpsfreak209

i was thinking of getting either 2004 or 2005 malibu maxx on criagslist.are these cars good on mpgs? how is the car overall? i would to hear thoughts on this. i'm 6'0 i'm looking for a car with room.

hault

My mpg is 25 in mixed driving. As low as 22 in mostly city stop and go. As high as 30 on trips driving 70-75mph. I bought my 2004 new. Have 53,000 miles now. I still like the roominess both front and back. Mine is a Maxx hatchback which is highly flexible in carrying larger items. Problems have been relatively few. If the price and mileage are on the low side I would recommend the newest one you can afford to avoid the first year issues on the 2004. Some updates were done as they moved into 2005 with essentially the same vehicle.

kiltman

I just recently traded-in my '05 Maxx LT. It was a great car but felt it was time for something new. Had it from new with 140k miles on it. Lots of squeaks and rattles but overall the vehicle was sound. Had the lower? control arm changed a couple of years ago, and the seat frame broke but had that fixed for $40 by some kid with a tig welder. Got @30 mpg for long trips and @24-25 for mixed. I am 6'3, 230 and the car was a perfect fit for me. I now have a '12 Subaru Outback and it is just a bit bigger.

pao

had my 04 MAXX LT for 196K....no problems...some rattles and squeaks for a 8 year old car....had the clunk in the front suspension..but never had any parts replaced....the 04s get slightly better gas mileage than the 05s....I could get 30-31 on long hauls...and 24-25 around town.....my stepson now has it and its about to roll 200K on it....the other issue to watch is the steering column..but I never had that problem either....

Overall it was a great car and I got my $$ worth out of it........I now have a '12'Subaru Impreza as its my daily commuter...103 miles round trip per day.....wife as a 11 Outback...and we love both cars......

fpsfreak209

how does this one sound.it's off of criagslist.

Malibu Maxx LT 2005 - $6800

116,000 miles

hault

I would test drive it yourself around town and at speed on highway. Then have a mechanic check it. Any car over $4000 is a big investment. Also see how long they owned it and what repairs they have done.

bluedevils

We sold our Maxx last fall after 187,000 basically trouble-free miles. The driver's seat had a frame/support problem, the steering rack (?) finally needed replacement for the first time, and a couple other minor things. Probably could've been well on our way to 300k miles if I'd been willing to put about $1,000 into it, but decided it was time for something different.

We really enjoyed the vehicle - comfortable, flexible, roomy, dependable, reliable. Kids cried when we sold it.

I'd consider a used one in the future as a 3rd car, kids car, etc.

gagabubu

Bluedevils. Glad you had so much from the Maxx. My 2005 Maxx is at 139000 odd miles and works effortlessly. I get HWY mileage of 34 mpg if I do 55-60. I have had the transmission changed, cruise control works intermittently and the rear view mirror fell off and had to be replaced. So far so good.

csandste

05 LS. Reimbursed steering column plus blend door fixed under warranty. Fairly rattle free 30+ at 70 mph, low twenties around town, still rattle free and enjoyable.

pao

finally handed down my 04 Maxx LT.....at 195K to my step son who has 206K on it now......all OEM except two front tire rods and one rear caliper.....not one problem with anything else.......still running like a champ getting good MPG.....he is a home improvement sales person and averages 2K a month on the road......so hoping he will get another 50-100K out of it.....

I did routine maintenance on time...and changed all fluids every 50K after it reached 100K.....running full synthetic..Mobil 1 since 30K on the engine changing every 6K.......

hault

Did you ever solve the idle problem on your 2004 Maxx?

pao

you do realize you are replying to a 7 year old message.....I believe he is no longer on the board

rezistrat

You must replace the entire antenna mount. This comes with the mast. It's not terribly involved a few screws on the inside of the trunk and just pull the plastic out a bit. You can find this part online relatively cheap, just google.

cwesleyg

As the original owner, I've had my ups and downs with this car, but overall it has at least run reliably. Replaced driver's side hub once, passenger side twice. Had O² sensor connector replaced at 95K after shop first replaced sensor that was not bad. Replaced control arm and ball joints on passenger side with the second hub at 125K. Have had to have the steering greased numerous times. Fixed the shakey headlights by removing them and smashing the mounting plate bottom in towards the front of the car... reinstalled lights and they no longer vibrate going down the road. Third set of tires... coming up on my 13th full synthetic oil change (every 10K)... Mobil 1 for years, now running Amzoil 5W30... every winter the doors freeze shut at least twice and when you close them they will bounce open and not latch but it corrects itself eventually. I just got my recall notice about the crossed signals in the TERRIBLE electric power steering. Need to schedule that and if it finally fixes it I won't be afraid to let my kids drive the car now. Overall though, I'm not very impressed with anything GM makes. Too much rust, and predictable failures where the replacement parts have all the problems of the original ones. They should see trends and correct issues better because I really don't want to replace the rear wiper arm a 4th time!!! The steering recall went to Cobalt owners a long time ago, but I finally got mine after 129K miles and 7-8 years of trouble. How many Malibu owners have replaced thousands of dollars in parts to try to fix something that you know they knew about the real cause all along... it is just pathetic. So my next car will probably be a Honda again. My 3.5L V-6 runs well and the trans is good. Above all else, never use the Chevy dealer for service! They have lied to me at every turn and have no clue!

hault

Did you ever find out what was wrong with the temperature gauge not working. And the fan coming on. My 2004 Maxx I have had since new is now doing this. I switched out the ECT sensor and unplugged and replugged in the dash. It worked for 24 hours. Then today it added a high engine idle like the computer thinks the engine is cold. I'm probably going to replace the pigtail wire that sends the signal from the ECT sensor to the computer. Maybe it's a connection issue.

hault

I have an 04 Maxx since new. 60,000 miles. Recently my engine temperature gauge stopped working. I looked in the Chiltons manual for help. It suggested the connection on the back of the instrument cluster and the ECT sensor second. The ECT is cheap and easy so I replaced it and disconnected then re connected the dash connection. The gauge worked for 24 hours. On the next day I had a high idle 800-1200 rpm at idle w/air on. The radiator fan was also on even when the engine was cold. The car would not shift into the overdrive either. Later while driving I got the check engine light code P0128. I unplugged the ECT and re plugged it in. I turned the ignition switch on and the gauge momentarily started to work then quit. I'm going to try replacing the pig tail from the ECT to the computer as a last resort. Any ideas?

csandste

Got 106,000 fairly trouble free. Steering column fixed, and reimbursed by GM. Blend door replaced under warranty.

Replaced with '13 Kia Rio EX 5-door which is as comfortable as the Maxx, but has considerably less power. Of course I get about 7 mpg more per gallon and have a lot more goodies like UVO hands free electronics, backup camera, folding electric mirrors, etc.

All in all I was very happy with the Maxx. Her car had to be replaced pronto so she could get to work. Sonic turbo and Rio were on my short list. Finally found one Sonic hatch, but dealer ignored me. Drove Honda Fit, which had more room but was a lot cruder in amenities.

Car's still in the family in case I have to haul something the Rio won't handle.

csandste

Should have mentioned. It's an '05.

hault

I fixed my Maxx by replacing the coolant temperature sensor a second time. Apparently the first one was either not the right one or defective. I purchased the "Delphi" brand. Traded Maxx in on a new 2013 Altima.