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'98 Intrepid starting to use oil already



  • zueslewiszueslewis Posts: 2,353
    but I've seen 6 cases so far where they've shelled their transmissions (autos). They are using the same basic model as is found in the Cherokee and the base Grand Cherokee.
  • Any chance those 6 cases were first year problems? I am hoping here that the 2003 model is improved (typical new model changes in response to early build failings).
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    ran into a guy with a months-old liberty at the car wash who just gushed over it, excellent surprise, best vehicle he's had in years.

    could be another case of even-serials are good and odd-serials suck, just the luck of the draw on which axle truck your parts came off of. those problems can be fixed if a maker decides they are going to be fixed... and occasionally, they can be fixed darn near overnight by melting down the phone line to the appropriate executive at a supplier..
  • zueslewiszueslewis Posts: 2,353
    I haven't seen a 2003 anything yet.
  • c01c01 Posts: 28
    J.L. Where have you been, as an automotive expert you must know many of the 2003 models have been out since last autumn.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,043
    What he means, is that he hasn't seen any 2003 lemon law cases yet.
  • zueslewiszueslewis Posts: 2,353
    it takes 6-12 months for problems to crop up and warrant filing a complaint.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,043
    ...have you ever heard of a common problem of the thermostat housing leaking on the 2.7? Mine developed a small leak in it, and my mechanic replaced it around 51,000 miles, when I also had new back brakes and spark plugs put on. My mechanic said it was a pretty common problem, and that they'd done it a few times before.

    My 'Trep is the highest-mileage 2nd-gen LH car that my mechanic sees regularly, so I think they view mine as a benchmark to gauge what the others might do.

    The thermostat housing was a $209 repair by the mechanic..something like $75 for the part and the rest labor. A far cry from back in the day when I got one for my Dart for $5 out of the junkyard and put it on myself!
  • zueslewiszueslewis Posts: 2,353
    leaks on the 2.7s, but not the t-stat specifically. There are usually more than one leak in the manifold so they replace it instead of just the gasket.

    T-stats aren't as easy to get to as they used to be, that's for sure.

    I replaced mine in my Mustang (an '86!!) and it took well over an hour.
  • A year ago I replaced my thermostat in my 1999 Ford Ranger 4.0L V6 (German pushrod) with a new (Thompson made?) NAPA thermostat. I think the cost was $6.00, and I spent a morning working on it, along with other tinkering. This replacement requires a bunch of stuff to be moved out of the way to get down to the housing. I had a similar "early failure" of the thermostat in my 1993 Explorer, same engine. I traded the Explorer in on the Ranger, and had the privilege of replacing that same German thermostat in both vehicles!
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,043
    ...the 4.0 was German! It's not based on that old 2.8 that was in the Capri back in the '70's, is it?
  • This engine is based on a brilliant Teutonic dream. It is a great mill. More recent iterations of it are now overhead cam, and that "changes everything." I like the pushrod version.
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,030
    .......they'll be up to sucks in no time!
  • I'm thinking you need to trade your car off! You get a bad one, now and then, and have to move on...
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,043 '00 now has one! It's a minor one, though. Went to change the oil yesterday, and ended up rounding off the drain plug! I got a new one from the dealership last nite and, what a shock, it was actually cheaper to get the original Mopar part than the aftermarkets crap from the chain stores (that wasn't in stock anyway!)

    Tonite's going to be the fun part...getting the old drain plug out. I may be offline for a few days, while my busted knuckles have a chance to heal ;-)
  • zueslewiszueslewis Posts: 2,353
    the best way I found was to file two sides flat and clamp on with a big pair of vise grips.

    Of course, you could use a cutting torch if you're into that....
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,030
    ......I know I need to get rid of this piece of junk, but I can't trade it in. I'd have to pay a dealership to take it! I'll have to sell it to a private party. Yes, I'll feel bad for selling them this POS, but I can't afford to lose any more money on this thing. It's someone else's turn.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,043
    ...can I have the drain plug? ;-)

    Did you buy this car used? I can't remember if you mentioned that before or not. Do you still owe anything on it? I guess if it's paid off at least, and you can't find a dealership or sucker-er I mean buyer for it, you could always donate it to a charity and write it off on your taxes. Depending on what bracket you're in, that might actually come out better than trying to sell it outright. Less hassle, at least.
  • tbonertboner Posts: 402
    Don't ask, it's a lease. And it's being discussed in 15 threads right now.

    He's expecting to be 10K over mileage at lease end and is hoping to get out without having to pay the mileage fee. Perhaps by negotiating a lower buyout from the finance co and selling the car privately for at least that much.

  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,043
    I tried doing the trick of filing off the drain plug and using vice grips, but that just made it worse. (I heard that trick from someone else too, but thanks for mentioning it, Zues) I don't know how I got that drain plug in there so tight, but it wasn't coming out!

    I finally gave up and took it to my mechanic last night. I was going to take it in soon to have them check the belts and hoses, and a general checkout anyway. Got a call this morning that it was all finished and ready to go. They got the drain plug out, after about 1/2 hour. Belt, hoses, coolant all fine, which surprises me, since I'm now at 75,000 miles. Maybe that stuff really *does* last to 100K like the manufacturer says, nowadays!
  • zueslewiszueslewis Posts: 2,353
    air equipment ot a jackhammer to file it down!!
  • swschradswschrad Posts: 2,171
    and plenty of straps to hold the car onto the rack while six or seven of your meanest, beefiest friends pull on the cheater to kick the plug loose
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,030

    I actually leased this car new. Amazingly, my drain plug is still in good shape, however, the rest of the car is falling apart. The car will be going up on floor jacks tomorrow. I need to crawl underneath because now it's leaking tranny fluid. The fun never stops with this POS.


    See that little "down" arrow in the lower righthand portion of your screen? If you click on it, it actually allows you to scroll past those posts you don't want to read. Pretty nifty, huh? BTW, if you've got $10K, I've got a nice Intrepid I'll sell you.
  • tbonertboner Posts: 402
    But you don't own it yet, so how can you sell it, LOL. It is a stick shift, right? Oh yeah, it uses more oil than my 87 LeSabre, nevermind.

    Don't take it so personally, I was just yanking your chain. Psst, it's only the internet, so relax and have some fun with it.

    But really, it was kinda a dig at Andre. I was just wondering how he missed so many posts in so many topics about your car.

    In all seriousness, I hope you get out of your car relatively unscathed. I think you can, but it will require some persistance with Chrysler Finance.

    I wish you well.

  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,030
    I called my lease company yesterday and asked them if they'd be willing to negotiate on the price if I were interested in buying out the lease at lease's end. They said they would be. Terry in real world trade-in values told me to get with him when the time comes and we'd work out a plan. If I work this right, I may be able to get out of this thing without it costing me any more money. I will choose a dealership that I would like to buy a new MPV from and I will agree to purchase a new MPV from them, if they allow me to buyout my lease through them, and then I'll turn around and sell it to a private party. This way I won't have to pay sales tax on the Intrepid. I have a feeling things will work out.
  • This will probably sound like I'm jacking you around, but I'm not. You better be careful about selling that piece to a private party. It could end up in small claims court, or worse, with you holding the bag again. What would be the problem with just turning it in at the end of your lease? If it is over mileage, but they know you had a "lemon" doesn't that allow you room to "threaten" away some or all of the over mileage rip off they might want?
  • zueslewiszueslewis Posts: 2,353
    whether accused or convicted, has no bearing to the lender writing the lease, even if it's a DCC lease. The lending agent didn't make the car, they just support the paper.
  • andre1969andre1969 Posts: 23,043 it really worth it to lease a car (ANY car, not just an Intrepid) for that long of a period? I thought leases were better for people who traded in every year or two, and kept their mileage low?

    For instance, my Intrepid ended up being $2000 down and $347 a month for 60 months. It's warrantied through 5 years/100K miles. If it totally self-destructs after the 60th payment, I could just walk away from it if I wanted to and it wouldn't cost me a cent, or in a best-case scenario, it might cover a minimal down payment on a new car. Would a 5-year lease really save much on a monthly payment?
  • zueslewiszueslewis Posts: 2,353
    or longer lease, but it really is a slam to your wallet.

    Many dealers push 60-78 (yes, 78) month leasing and the problem is that the residual that is used is simply fictious. On a $22,000 Intrepid, there is simply no way the car will be worth $8-9K after 6 years of driving. The remainder of the lease payment that isn't part of that $14,000 that you "financed" is additional profit and money factor markup.

    I've written leases that gave the dealer over $5,000 in finance reserve alone - that doesn't count the profit on the sale of the car (front end gross).

    For instance, on a 66 month lease (seems very popular lately), using a lease price (capital cost) of $22,000 with an $8,000 residual, standard money factoring would add about $2,500 in lease charges to the $14K remaining. That's a $250 payment if you didn't put any cash down.

    I've seen lease paymenst with the same terms with a $400 payment. There's $9,900 extra in there! ($150 x 66)

    The only leases I have ever recommended for consumer is short term (24-30 mo) leases with very little down on a vehicle with a HUGE residual factor at 24 mo (like 55-70%). The Ford Expedition was in this arena in '97 when it came out. It had a 2 year residual of 74% and I leased one with first pmt down for $340 a month - a $32,000 truck.
  • bottgersbottgers Posts: 2,030 payments on a 60 month lease ended up being $325, while if I would've bought the car and financed it for 60 months the payments would've been about $450 a month. At the time, our monthly household income was considerably less than it is now, but in retrospect, we probably could've afforded the payments. The extra $125 a month would've left me owning the car after 60 months, instead of being in the situation I'm in now. I will never lease another vehicle, though I suppose leases are still good for some, depending on the situation.

    My intrepid isn't bad enough for me to worry about the person I sell it to taking me to court. I estimate the oil consumption at about one quart per every 1000-1500 miles. The upper tranny line going into the radiator is leaking a bit right where it connects. Not a big deal. I can fix this myself. The car actually still drives nice and quiet, and it still looks pretty good too. This car just hasn't aged well with me. I've outgrown it, and I'm ready to move up to a minivan.
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