'98 Intrepid starting to use oil already
I just noticed our Intrepid (2.7 litre engine) has started using oil at 63K miles. I'm ruling out the types and brands of oil and oil filters I've used as causing the problem. I've never gone more than 3K miles on dino, or 6K synthetic for oil change intervals, and I've always used either Puralator PureOne or Mobil 1 filters. This leads me to believe the problem is caused either by the K&N air filter, or by DC themselves. I've learned since my purchase of the K&N, that they don't filter as well as OEM filters. I'm wondering if the filter has caused this problem, or is this engine just one more poorly built product by DC? They've had so many over the years, it wouldn't surprise me. Are any of you folks having oil consumption problems with your Intrepids?
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How much oil are you using? I've heard that it's not uncommon for some engines to use up to 1 quart of oil every 1000 miles and it's considered "normal". Only time I've ever had a car use that much oil though, was when it was leaking somewhere!
What's your consumption rate? 2.7s have had crank sensor seal and cam seal issues - look there first.
zueslewis - I don't think you'll get any arguments in here about the K&N outflowing OEM filters, but I think you'll get plenty of arguments about whether it filters as well. In fact, I think the general consensus is that it doesn't filter as well as OEM filters.
I was in San Bernardino, CA when several performance companies leased a dyno house to run proving tests - I was really happy to be around all that.
as for DC customer dissatisfaction, eventually it will bite them. HOW eventually depends on whether they are paying attention to customer complaints and warranty requests and media attention. if they are, they will change. if they aren't, they will drive toyotas to the unemployment line and wonder why.
If I had bad luck with Chryslers, trust me, I wouldn't keep buying them!
Pmack: Congrats on your decision to go with the Altima--excellent auto and in five years it will be worth much more than a lowly decrepit of the same age.
Dutchboy ditch that thing--and remember to tell everyone you can about your experience with the Decrepit. A good place to pass along the info is in the Intrepit topic in sedans, although it might be inactive, I haven't checked for some time. In the past a few Chrysler Huggers posted in that forum.
Oh, and my roommate's grandmother has a 2001 Altima with a problem that I thought the manufacturers cleared up decades ago...water leaks!
But, through all that, I don't go around bad-mouthing the Altima and calling all of them crap, or people who buy them stupid.
Trust me, if my Intrepid was a POS, I'd unload it.
I personally think free markets are the best thing to ultimately produce the best vehicles, not protectionist policies.
TB
I've owned three pre-DC Mopar's.
you might get a different transmission or engine or changes in the suspension system between a lux-twin and the standard-twin, like audi/VW or lexus/toyota, but if they've got the same parts, you've got the same expectations.
between detroilet brand-twins, expect no real differences. there are maybe a hundred different parts out of some 5000, tops, between them, and rarely in the running gear.
I believe the current Concorde weighs about 100 lb more than the Intrepid, but I doubt that's enough to put any additional strain on the engine/tranny.
Sometimes, one twin will be more reliable than another if it's built at a different factory. For instance, with GM, the Impala and Century/Regal always seemd to be put together better than the Grand Prix/Intrigue. The Chevy/Buicks are built in Canada, and the Pontiac/Olds, Kansas.
Way back in the old days, a more expensive version of a car usually got you a better car. For instance, back in the '50's, a more expensive Chrysler or DeSoto usually got you a Hemi or big block, compared to a cheaper Dodge or Plymouth, which was more likely to come with a 6-cyl or the more antiquated wideblock. The pricier models were also more likely to have a 3-speed Torqueflite, as opposed to the 2-speed Powerflite. That's all ancient history though. The Concorde/300M matches the Intrepid engine for engine, and tranny for tranny (unless they've limited autostick availability). And even with the high-output V-6, the only difference between the Chrysler and Dodge comes at 90-100% of wide-open throttle, and that's more computer programming than engine differences.
The 300M is nearly identical to the Intrepid R/T, including most wiring harnesses.
One secret to success is don't keep many of these contraptions beyond, say, 80K... [;^/
I knew a guy with a Ford Probe that was in a situation like that. He bought a '94 in early '97, and financed it for 5 years. The tranny went out the first time while it was still under warranty. The second time though was at 86K, and I think he still owed about 2 years on the car. He couldn't afford to get it fixed, so it just sat in front of his parents' house and he kept making payments on it until he finally had the money.
One thing I can't stand is having to make car payments AND sink money into major repairs! Give me one or the other, but not both at the same time!
What about JEEP? It remains Daimler Chrysler. A friend was test driving a Liberty today, and I went along for the ride (literally).
could be another case of even-serials are good and odd-serials suck, just the luck of the draw on which axle truck your parts came off of. those problems can be fixed if a maker decides they are going to be fixed... and occasionally, they can be fixed darn near overnight by melting down the phone line to the appropriate executive at a supplier..
My 'Trep is the highest-mileage 2nd-gen LH car that my mechanic sees regularly, so I think they view mine as a benchmark to gauge what the others might do.
The thermostat housing was a $209 repair by the mechanic..something like $75 for the part and the rest labor. A far cry from back in the day when I got one for my Dart for $5 out of the junkyard and put it on myself!
T-stats aren't as easy to get to as they used to be, that's for sure.
I replaced mine in my Mustang (an '86!!) and it took well over an hour.
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Tonite's going to be the fun part...getting the old drain plug out. I may be offline for a few days, while my busted knuckles have a chance to heal ;-)
Of course, you could use a cutting torch if you're into that....
Did you buy this car used? I can't remember if you mentioned that before or not. Do you still owe anything on it? I guess if it's paid off at least, and you can't find a dealership or sucker-er I mean buyer for it, you could always donate it to a charity and write it off on your taxes. Depending on what bracket you're in, that might actually come out better than trying to sell it outright. Less hassle, at least.
He's expecting to be 10K over mileage at lease end and is hoping to get out without having to pay the mileage fee. Perhaps by negotiating a lower buyout from the finance co and selling the car privately for at least that much.
TB
I finally gave up and took it to my mechanic last night. I was going to take it in soon to have them check the belts and hoses, and a general checkout anyway. Got a call this morning that it was all finished and ready to go. They got the drain plug out, after about 1/2 hour. Belt, hoses, coolant all fine, which surprises me, since I'm now at 75,000 miles. Maybe that stuff really *does* last to 100K like the manufacturer says, nowadays!