Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
Options
Mazda6 Accessories and Modifications
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
I wish that was the only cost for leather seats. There's also the required comfort package, ($220 MSRP). The moonroof generally goes with it ($700 MSRP), and I think most of the time if you get those, you also get the Bose, another $635. All that adds up quickly.
I'd like leather seats, but doing so would up the price by $2400 in order to get everything else that comes with it. I might go with aftermarket leather too, especially since you can get something other than straight up black.
Although $1080 sounds like a lot, thats only 5% of a $22000 car. That's a small price to pay for as much time as we spend in our cars. Maybe I should reevaluate my selection of cloth seats.
Redfire 6i MT (or yellow)
Premium & Sport Packages
ABS & SAB, ULEV
MP3 Player, Sport Grille, Wheel Locks
oh, and Leather
Invoice is $20,737... I'd gladly put myself into debt if they offered $500 over that.
I was also thinking about the shock sensor upgrade, but I can't find much information on it or how well it works.
Do I need it? No. Do I want it? Yes.
I went ahead and got the factory leather and moonroof instead of the aftermarket leather, just to make things easier. So I got everything in my previous post, plus the Leather/Comfort/Moonroof, and the alarm shock upgrade. It should be around $21650. Is that a steal or what?
The Bose doesn't sound THAT bad.
The dealer wants an arm and a leg both for price AND labor. If I can save by doing installation myself, then I'd also spring for a shiny new sports grille!
Advice please.
My 6s came with the sports grille already, but probably basic tools are sufficient and appears to be easy to remove the old chrome and installing the sports grille according to the owner's that have done it on previous posts. The screws are all accessible. Good luck!
thanks
Shawn
Click here.
Take a look at the first picture. A 12" subwoofer is the largest that will fit, and even then mounting depth may be a problem. I installed the subwoofer on the top end of the trunk, as a center mount is impossible due to a bulge in the well. That bulge, however, is extremely important- the screw used to keep the spare tire in place is also used to keep my subwoofer in place. In the rear of the car, the well has many, many curves, but I did my best to create a piece of wood that outlined the rear of the car and I mounted that to my main baffel. I'm sure it isn't air tight, but the rear should act somewhat like a speaker port.
My baffel was 28 1/2 inches wide and a little over 28 inches long. I cut the sides and front at a 15 degree angle to coincide with the slope of the well (which is more like 30 degrees, but I wanted space for my foam). Since this baffel will bear weight when the trunk is full, cutting an 11" hole for my 12" subwoofer was not an option. Instead, I cut a design, with the largest hole being 2" in diameter in the center. It's a poor design, and isn't what I had originally planned. Nonetheless, it lets an adequate amount of air through and still will bear lots of weight above.
Since I mounted the subwoofer directly against the bottom of the baffel, the woofer surround laid up against the wood. This completely prohibits woofer cone movement, so I used a router to bore out room for the cone to move. I bore out 2 layers of the 5-ply, 3/4" wood, about 3/8". I calculated this to give me nearly half an inch of woofer excursion, which is more than the Xmax of my relatively inexpensive Infinity subwoofer.
Once the woofer, baffel, and back was assembled and glued, I put it in place and ran this expanding foam all around the edges. I really used a lot to ensure no rattles. The foam dries hard and can be sanded and cut. I will need to cut it once it dries to get a nice smooth, continues surface, and I can furthermore cut it again if I ever need to remove the subwoofer (and repair/replace it). Not an elegent solution, but my best one.
The sound is fantastic- much better than my box. The gain is incredible since the back of the enclosure is the car- steel, not plastic. Not only is their massive gains from this, but despite the gains it does not sound boomy- at all. The steel enclosure is rigid enough to give me nice, clean bass that fills the cabin.
All in all, I'm pretty pleased.
Come on you computer geeks-let's get on this.
PS- I have a redfire 6 with the sport pkg, premium pkg, leather and the moonroof. I love this car. Zoom Zoom...
Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory
Or,
EEPROM
Electricaly Erasable Programmable Read-Only Memory
It's where the smarts of your car is at.
The seat belts are causing quite a bit of rattling in mine at the moment, it is at the very bottom of the belt.
Hope this helps.
Jason.
Genuine Mazda Euro Clear Tail Lights 03
Code: 0000-8Z-H15
Price: $217.50
cop414 & jason777: Sorry to hear of your squeak and rattle problems with your 6. I've had my 6s MT for about 3 months and haved logged almost 5K fun, trouble-free miles. This car is built solid! With all the potholes and ruts on the New England roads that I've encountered I still don't have any of the problems that others, like yourselves are experiencing. I even hit a deep pothole last week at highway speed (75mph), fearing that I damaged my driver's front tire or rim and screwed my alignment. Just a black tire mark rubbed that bottomed against the rim's edge (whew!)was all that happened.
thanks
Thanks for the pricing but the link is dead. Also, do you have the brushed fuel filler door? I posted already.
The brushed fuel foor was port installed when I purchased my 6s. They also left the oringinal in my trunk so that I could switch it out depending on my mood. It looks fairly simple/straight forward to replace. The original looks you remove a couple of screws to take out the door and the brush assembly door slips in the opening with the door frame is fastened by 6 screws and nuts around the opening edge. The door is actually smaller than the original because it has a brushed frame around it, but does not hamper/affect when refueling. Also, there's a sticker on the inside of the door that states: PREMIUM RECOMMENDED.Good luck!
BTW has anyone tried to get a key made by your dealer-I should have tossed that into the deal at closing-they want $70.00 to cut the key and program it. I have the alarm system-I don't know if that makes it more expensive or not, but WOW!
And no, I don't think you would find something like this at K-mart. If you haven't taken a real close look at one or felt one you'll see it is good quality that's made of thick aluminum and has a hard clear anodized satin finish.
sorry I didn't mean to "ruffle your feathers"-to each his own I guess!! I have never seen one up close, I'm sure that they are of good quality, I just don't care for the looks of it.
The only place I know of for preformance chips is-superchips.com. I have checked their site and they do not offer any chips for the 6. I did not contact them though to see if they will in the future. If you do find a source please post.
Thanks
Our test car had the sport package, and it seemed generally quiet, the main noise being tire noise on the highway. I understand that the 17 inch wheels that come with the sport package are a bit noisier than 16 inch wheels.
Does anyone have any idea how much difference there would be, and whether it is technically possible to change to the 16's if we want (the dealer suggested that the sport package suspension is tuned differently, and that it might not be possible, but this seems odd to me).
Would the Accord (yes, I know it's a much more boring car) be a lot more quiet? A little? The same?
Thanks for any information and suggestions.
Ken