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Comments
But this grinding thing has taught me the proper way to down shift. The rpm has to exceed the matching speed a little in order to down shift w/o damage. Furthermore, this has to be done even before the gear lever moves past the neutral entering the lower gear. Otherwise, that damaged 3rd gear would grind upon every down shift.
I tried protectants from Slick50(the newer version that works on ATF sticks), DuraLube(which suppose to coat & protect better than Slick50) & Prolong. The Prolong even removes the gear grind(another one after the 50k-mi warranty expired, either the 2nd or 4th gear) the DuraLube left behind. You see? I can't even remember if it was the 2nd or 4th gear. That means the Prolong has kept my all my gears grind-free for many years since! So I kept using the Prolong on all my transmissions & engines.
& the Z-Max is just a thin coating that removes carbon, so I only use it in place of the Prolong once a while on an old engine/transmission.
You can tell which lubricant is more slippery by testing the effect of engine braking. The engine w/ Prolong running at high rpm hardly slows the car down during throttle lift-off unless you also turn on the A/C!
z71bill: Do you open the windows and let the heat out before turning on the A/C, drive a mile or so first?
fowler3
Could be anything...THAT'S why the engineers are still doing tests.
I am sure the black color has a big impact on temperature - could also be part of the reason the big change when the car is in direct sun light. But Mazda should have been smart enough to factor this in when they designed the AC system.
I don't think that letting the hot air out or getting a window shade will do much to solve this issue. They may help on short trips - but I find that even after driving for an hour - at highway speeds - the AC in my Mazda3 will not cool the car.
One other thing I wish I would have known before buying a Mazda - they are not part of the BBB car assistance program (in the USA). The BBB program helps resolve problems without the need to get lawyers involved. I think that is why Mazda is telling me to go see the States Attorney General - they know that if I want to take any action that will force them to DO SOMETHING to resolve my problem that I would need to get a lawyer. By the time you pay a lawyer you would have been better off (money ahead) just trading the car in - the hit you take on a trade in will be less than the cost of your legal bills.
This is a sad way for a company to treat customers -
fowler3
2. Start the A/C and keep it in recirc mode, after closing all windows.
3. Keep the fan a notch or two below the Full speed. My experience is that at full speed, it expels the air without cooling it sufficiently.
4. Aim the vents at your body/face/arms.
Try it and you might be pleasantly surprised with the result, as I was.
I downshift during deceleration to use the A/C w/o additional fuel usage & save the brake wear.
While on long trips try cracking the rear windows periodically to draw some of the warmer air out of the car. This will alos pull the cold air from the vents out faster.
The recirc is the "HI" operating mode of and A/C system. Think about it this way: it is easier to recool air from 75 back down to 68 than it is to cool air from 90 down to 68.
It is a car after all and is subject to the laws of physics. If you are that unhappy with the 3, how much do you want for it? I'm sure someone here will be happy to take it off your hands
but apparently, the talk in US is that once you have the clutch assembly open, it is best to change all the parts that you can. That includes the bearing and the clutch plate, both.
can anyone agree or disagree?
A black / black car like my Mazda3 sitting for 30 minutes in the direct sun on a 90 degree day gets up to 140 degrees (maybe more) so rolling down the windows and getting rid of that super hot air gives the AC system a head start. But I am talking about driving down the highway - for 50 miles - AC in recirculate mode and fan speed on 3 or 4. The car never gets cool.
I also agree with setting the fan speed at 3 rather than 4. The air is cooler when the fan is set at 3. But have tried both and did not get good results with either.
For example today the outside temperature is 80 degrees and it is cloudy. The AC is putting out air that is between 45 and 50 degrees - the car gets nice and cool - after a few miles I turn the fan speed down to level 2. I have no complaint.
But if the outside temperature is above 85 and in direct sun the AC is putting out air that is between 54 and 59 degrees - and the car never gets cool. It is like the additional 5 degrees and the added load from the sun overloads the system.
I see the same thing happen with the AC systems in my Tahoe and PU truck - but only when the temperature is above 100 degrees and I am stuck in stop and go traffic - the AC just can not generate enough cool air - but even on a 100 degree day - once I drive for a few miles over 40 MPH the vehicle cools down.
As far as selling my 4 month old car - I hope it does not come to that - but if Mazda does not have a solution (other than referring me to the attorney general) I will have few other choices.
If I was shopping for a Mazda3 today I would make sure that I took a test drive on a hot sunny day -and make sure I was happy with the AC performance before I wrote the check.
In addition, at WOT (and most high rpms), most compressors will be shut off (at least in Mazdas, dating back MANY years)
And I also would rather brake than downshift (at least, 80% or more of my braking comes from the brakes, not engine braking, unless there is a critical need to keep the RPMs up for a particularly good upcoming turn!)
And I don't know how extensively you've test-driven the 3 or 6, but let me reiterate that the braking in these cars is a few classes above anything the Pro can offer. Its mind-boggling how little fade there is even after much hard driving, and how instantaneous the braking response is. It shows in the excellent braking distances, vis a vis some 'sports' cars.
What! That's ridiculous. I can't believe it. I've never seen a car like that. I know the Civic, since '92, had a variable compressor which probably varies the load on the pulley.
"In addition, at WOT (and most high rpms), most compressors will be shut off (at least in Mazdas, dating back MANY years)"
A Mazda engineer told me that my '90 Protege LX twin-cam's compressor will shut down for up to 7 seconds upon engine load(no vacuum). I agree w/ that one, as 7 seconds is sufficient time for any driver to shut the A/C off manually when continuous extra engine power is called for. But the system even shuts it down for at least a few seconds AFTER I tap the throttle for a split second during down shifts for braking. A few seconds of extension is too long, as this defeats the braking effect.
Drive your cars anyway you like. I'm very happy with the way I drive.
creakid1: If you read way, way back in the Mazda Protegé forum you will run across posts by people who bought black-on-black cars and swore they would never buy another one. There's a good reason -- they are hot. If you live where the humidity is high a black car can be unbearable. Protegés have good flow-through ventilation, I don't know about the 3s because they are so new. The rear vents may not work as well depending on where Mazda placed them. That's why the suggestion to crack (lower) the rear windows a little may help.
I can't figure out why people who live in Florida and along the Gulf Coast buy black cars.
fowler3
1) Are the xenons bright? I've read that xenon lights on cheaper cars usually aren't as bright as those on a BMW, Benz, etc.
2) Is there any way to turn the xenon lights on, but not the fog lights? Or do the fog lights automatically come on when headlights are on?
3) When I did the test drive, I turned on the xenons during the daytime. The speedomotor went totally dark and I couldn't see anything. Any way to get around this?
thanks!!
2. Yes, the foglight switch is separate from the xenons. But the foglights only comes on if the xenons are on. If the headlights are on (pushing the turn signal stem forward), the foglights go off even if the fog switch is on.
If the xenons are on by itself, the foglights can go on.
3. There is a light control switch for the gauges. Your switch may have turned the lights off the gauges. Turning on the xenons do not turn off the gauges automatically. Light sensors may be in play too.
1davao
The electroluminscent gauges go into a less-bright night-mode when the parking or headlights are on. In those instances where you want the full day-time brightness with the exterior lights on, just press the button 1davao refers to.
I'm also seeing a LOT of Mazda6 and a few MPV models (New ones, with the new "official Mazda" headlight treatment) popping up here too. The nearest dealer is an hour away plus, so when people are willing to go THAT far to buy a particular brand car, it tells you something.
But I STILL wish there was a closer dealer.
> lights on cheaper cars usually aren't as
> bright as those on a BMW, Benz, etc.
Originally I had wanted Xenons, but couldn't find a car with these and the other options I wanted. This was the option I was prepared to drop in order to get a car without waiting 3+ months for delivery from Japan. I was told by my dealer that they're a factory only option, and couldn't be dealer installed.
The halogen projectors are plenty bright for me, so I'm more than happy at not getting them. Besides I live in a city, and headlight theft seems to be the new crime, especially if you have $800 worth of Xenons out there. Sad but true. That said, do they look any different to the halogens or are they going be just as much of a target? Ho hum!
> 2) Is there any way to turn the xenon lights
> on, but not the fog lights? Or do the fog
> lights automatically come on when headlights
> are on?
There is a seperate switch on the stalk for the fog lights. They remain off until you put the low beams on. They turn off when you switch to the high beams, parking lights or turn the lights off all together. I think this is the way fog lights should work since you don't drive in fog with you highs on (unless you like the feeling of driving into a white wall!). I for one think that people who use their fog lights on clear nights ought to go back to driving school and stop being so ignorsant to the fact that they're blinding oncoming traffic, but I'm funny like that ...
> 3) When I did the test drive, I turned on the
> xenons during the daytime. The speedomotor
> went totally dark and I couldn't see anything.
> Any way to get around this?
There is a button between the tac and speedo which cycles through the brightness setting for the electroluminscent lighting. When the lights are off there are 5 settings (bright to dull), when the lights are on there are 2 settings (day and night?) with a traditional dimmer dial to the left of the wheel.
It's a lot of buttons to do something simple, but once I got it setup I found I don't mess with it that much. The only thing I dislike about the setup is that some lights on the dash ar not on the dimmer circuit (cruise control for one) so at night if you like driving with the instruments dim as I do, then these lights stand out as too bright.
Where do the sensors mount?
Will changing to snow tires/wheels have a consequence for the TPMS system?
Convince me I should or should not get this option, please.
Anyone have pics of the dash with cassette or MP3 player?
Does any of the MP3 tag info appear on the dash display?
I want the moonroof and MP3 player. Wish I didn't have to get the changer with the moonroof....
Local mechanics, who had worked for the Roanoke dealer and had opened their own service center, told me, "If you want a car which has had its PIDC (pre-initilal delivery check) done right, go to Greensboro and buy it. The Greensboro dealer is a distributor and also trains technicians for other dealers."
They were right! I told the dealer what they had said about the PIDC. It was near quitting time when I closed on the trade, but he had two technicians stay overtime to complete the PIDC, two hours, and I was on my way home.
Cars you test drive have only had part of the checks done. That's why it takes more time than most buyers allow for. If you are in a hurry they have to leave off a couple things and then something doesn't work when you get home. Be patient!
Enjoy the drive!
fowler3
peregrine_11 "Mazda Protege Owners: Care & Maintenance" Jun 22, 2001 9:24am
If you can't get the URL to work, go to: Mazda Protegé > at the top click on *Mazda Protegé Owners Club*; and look for Care & Maintenance.
The URL is the first page, you will need to check later ones.
fowler3
That being said, I did it. I prefer the MP3 player.
Wish they'd make an aux-bay accessory for a HDD-based MP3 player like the Karma, but there's always the future...
I was told that when those are locked, no one without a key can get into the trunk. (i.e. valet)
They can't drop the rear seats (obviously)
BUT, I was told that the release at the foot of your driver's seat wasn't supposed to open the trunk either.
has anyone else tried this?? I did but the trunk opened via the trunk release at the front of the car. I even double checked the locks on the back seats.
I like the idea of locking the trunk from inside and out but what's the point if the guy just has to reach down by his foot and pop it!
Can someone else please verify!
thx
Ray
Ti GT/GFX 4dr
Toronto
What are the pros and cons for leather seating in a car?
Are they better/worse than cloth for comfort or durability in a Minnesota winter environment?
The price is cheap enough so wondering what the better choice might be for me.
----
but what about U.S. X plan pricing?
Invoice plus or minus how much?
Or how does it work?
I have a friend who works for Ford. He gave me some $ figures for his Mustang purchase, but I didn't want to ask what he paid for the car total. So I can't figure it this way....
Step one: Slide or push buttons inside the trunk behind the folddown seats to prevent the seats from folding down by anybody from inside the car.
Step two: Turn the master key counterclockwise at the trunk keyhole until it stops. This prevents the trunk from opening through the lever by the driver seat. The valet key cannot unlock the trunk. Do not give the masterkey to the valet.
The valet key allows the car to be driven but no access to the trunk or the glove compartment.
Disclaimer: These locks do not deter some people who have skills to access the system by other means.
1davao
S plan is just Mazda's term for Ford's X Plan.
If you want to stop someone from opening the truck with the remote trunk lever you can do this by opening the truck - there is a little yellow lever on the trunk lid lock - flip this lever and it blocks the remote trunk lever.
But - you can still open the truck with the key -Mazda recommends not giving your key to anyone who you do not trust! I am not making this up - look in your owners manual.
Trunk security: If anybody really wants to get into your trunk they can by breaking into the car and cutting through the back seats. This rarely happens because it takes too much time, the person may be caught red-handed, and not worth the trouble.
Mazda doesn't supply a valet key system because few buyers go to places that have that service, such as luxury hotels.
fowler3
I had a friend in high school that always locked his glove box (so it wouldn't rattle) - even when it was empty. One day his car was broken into - his 8 track tape player was stolen and they also broke the door of his glove box off - even though it held nothing of value. It cost him a lot more to have the glove box door replaced than it did to replace the 8 track player.
i'll try it out the next time i get t chance.
Ray
Some people like them, others do not. They require treating with leather protectant to keep the leather soft. They are cold in the winter, the Mazda3 doesn't have a seat heater option. They are hot in the summer. Black being the only selection it gets very hot when the car is closed and parked.
Cloth gives the driver better support in tight curves. It's cooler in the summer and warmer to sit on in the winter and it comes standard.
Sit in an Mazda3 with leather on a hot day and see what you think.
fowler3
Leather/vinyl makes you less macho, not more! ;-)
Imagine getting sport seats w/ cloth -- wheeeeee....
Being 5'11", I already have to raise the Mazda3's driver seat all the way high in order to avoid this problem due to the lack of adjustable thigh angle, & then the moonroof's rubbing my head. Anyone found a way to remount the whole driver seat w/ spacers to tilt it backward? But then drivers w/ short legs taking turn driving will complain.
I just test drove another 3 sedan, the Beemer not Mazda. Oh boy, w/ the std manual 6-way seat w/o adjustable thigh angle just like the Mazda3, the driving position is stressful! Even w/ the height raised partially so I already ran out of headroom under the moonroof & had to recline to an arm-stretching driving position, my thighs still feel uncomfortably under-supported.
Luckily the 8-way sport seat w/ super-comfy headrests(it even has thigh-length in addition to the angle adjustment!) can now be special ordered as a stand-alone option for $550. We already ordered a 325i like that plus the 4-way pwr lumbar for another $450. But I still find the new S40 the best when comes to driving position especially w/ the high door armrest. Even w/ 236/218 torque/hp turbo, the '05 S40 T5 w/ 6-sp manual starts under $26500.
The seat is on tracks, there are two bolts holding the front ends of the tracks. Remove the plastic covers and loosen the bolts, add spacers and re-tighten. You may need longer bolts.
Spacers look like washers with a piece cut out of them so they can be inserted without removing the bolt. Add a few at a time and try the seat.
fowler3